Chris, thank-you for the tutorial on the front and rear brake rotors and pads replacement. Ordered all the parts online (Zimmermann Coat Z rotors and Akebono ceramic pads) for around $420 and did them following your detailed video. I second using the VAG-com (already had one) to retract the rear electronic parking brake instead of trying to do it as others have suggested by using wires and jumping from the battery. Out of curiosity, I went to the local Audi dealership to get a quote for the entire job...the quote was front ($965 parts, labor and tax) and rear ($949 parts, labor and tax). You saved me a ton of money!! Thanks again for the excellent videos.
Thanks. Perfectly clear and easy to follow. You got lucky with the torx bolts--the ones on my back brakes were so corroded that the heads stripped with the lightest pressure. I replaced all the torx bolts with stainless steel ones.
Should have used a wire brush to take off any debris on the wheel hub as well as using copper anti seize Also should have used a wire brush to brush dirt, dust and debris off the caliper carrier or anywhere the brakes come in contact with metal... that also goes for the rear .. always use anti seize where needed
Not a problem ! I'm a DIY type of guy so I've learned things as I go along... some things are pretty straight forward such as replacement of the brake pads/rotors
About to change the pads on my s4. Aren't the 13mm and 21mm bolts stretch bolts? I went to the store and picked up a new set for $10. Also what are the torque specs for the two sets of bolts? Great video though
Awesome video, Chris! I notice in your "Entire Front/Rear Rotor/Pads Bundle" that the only new screws/bolts were the rotor set screws. Do people re-use the other bolts or do they replace them? Anyone have part numbers? I have been told N91147601 x 4 for the front and N91041702 x 4 for the rear...can you confirm?
@@chrisdelucia2672 I had a local Audi dealership price out the parts for a front and rear brake job (pads and rotors) and I given these part numbers: N-106-83-01 X 4 (rotor set screws) N-911-476-01 x 4 (front caliper bolts) N-910-417-02 x 2 (rear caliper bolts) N-911-268-01 x 2 (rear caliper bolts) If anyone needs these parts, ECS Tuning has them in stock.
Hey bro quick question before I order how many break pad sensors do I need to replace all 4 rotors and break pads front and back, please reply asap I got limeted time to order
Hi quick question as I’m going to be trying this service myself in the upcoming weeks, what exactly were you using the C Clamp on the piston for? Is it necessary to have to do this service?
My fathers b8 is having a slight brake overheating issue... Only the front left brake is getting hot but not red hot. What could be the issue? Thanks in advance.
c.delucia yeah thanks for the tip the bolt guide is all rusted it’s ruin cheap replacement and one more thing about your vag com cable were and what kind exactly can I get them please and thank you
Hey - how do I reset my Audi brake pad sensors after changing FRONT rotors and pads? Don’t I have to activate the brake pads so the car knows that they are much thicker than the old pads? Can I do this without a scan tool?
Hey buddy, great video - best I've seen for front brakes. Have you had to replace your front control arms yet? I have your car but wagon version and need to change all front control arms, but thought maybe you knew of a solid kit? Thanks!!
Hey Brandon glad you enjoyed the video. I have not yet had to do the control arms, but on my older b5 a4 I changed them many times. I have used FPC control arms a few times because of how cheap they are, but they defiantly do not last close to as long as OEM. If you have the money to spend always go OEM, if not FPC isn't a bad option for the price.
It is only needed for doing the rear brakes. This used to retract the electronic e brake on the rear. If you're just doing the front you do not need the computer
Good tutorial! Are the pads as low dust as the OEM's? Also, where did you find the S rims - a shop that sells them or used? Thinking of upgrading the ones on my A4 Avant which are currently 17's. Thanks!
Hey man quick question, when doing front brakes do you put the e-brake on? I drive the B8 6MT, I can easily park on level ground for it to not roll but i’m curious if the e-brake should be on? I’ve seen mixed videos and mixed installation things so i’m trying to find the appropriate approach.
I would say it doesn't have to be on but if you are in fear of the car moving with the front wheels off of the ground then go ahead and put it on. Also leave the car in gear and it should help not roll.
Hey! Nice video it really looks good and made it possible for everybody to do this kinda job! I’m about to order my parts but it’s hard to find the right brake disks diameter which one should i order? I see a lot of 314mm in the front and 300mm disk in the rear should that be fine or should i be looking for other disks?
This is very helpful, I am doing this tomorrow night on my 2013 A4 that just hit 81,000 miles and will use this as a guide along with the video for the rear brakes. I have a carista to release the emergency brake in the back. How long of a job was it? Realistic to do front and rear brakes in 2 hours? Thanks
Happy to hear that you found this helpful. As for a first time doing the brakes on the car I would say realistically probably around 3 hours to be safe. If you run into any questions let me know
I can't seem to get my caliper to let loose of the rotor when taking it off. Got the two 13 mm bolts out fine, and the caliper wiggles some but won't seem to budge off the rotor. Any tips for getting those off?
Sometimes the lip of the worn rotor will catch on your brake pads and make it hard to pull off. Try pressing the caliper piston back in with a flathead screw driver. You should be able to get a screw flathead driver in-between the rotor and old brake pad on the back of the caliper and pry it the piston/pad back in.
I think I messed up my car 🤦🏻♀️ I removed the caliper and the brake pads fell out but I just pushed it back in and set it down, I didn’t have the 21mm so I put everything back together so I could go buy it the next day, but next morning car wouldn’t turn on and had lights on dash (ecp, airbags, abs, brakes). I drove the car a few feet to put it in the garage and turned it off before going to sleep after I worked on it. Either something stayed on and drained the battery (it’s 5 months old) or there’s an issue in the brake but I can’t figure it out. Car still won’t turn on and lights on dash are still there.
@@chrisdelucia2672 update: new battery in yesterday, turned on and everything went away, turned it off then later in the day drove around a bit and got back home and turned it off. Today it won’t start again, there’s a lot of whining from the dashboard like it’s trying to turn on but can’t, brother told me to check starter and fuel pump relays but idk other than that idk what to do or check
Your most likely going to do the the job again as you put the best rotors centric makes with the worst pads centric makes. Centric 300 range pads is garbage, can’t use it for German cars and you used 102 c tek pads for the rear. Good luck stopping your car. 100 series OE pads on the front and 104 Posi quite on the back should have been the combo.
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't noticed anything different as far as braking so far but in the future if anything comes up I will try the pads you suggested
Good job but you're breaking my heart. Upgrade your jack before you bugger your sill. Invest in some nylon gloves. Your hands are stinking. Rather than touching and contamination you can just change gloves. Also while the caliper is off plus mount, tidy them up, clean and spray. Also bolts removed, invest in some copper grease. Always copper grease your bolts, you thank yourself upon next visit. Especially your wheel bolts. Also torque your bolts, wheel bolts especially in a cross pattern. Just a few things that I couldn't watch without feeling ill.
Stopped after 10 seconds. If you are seriously going to put videos on UA-cam look up how to do decent audio. Can’t listen to that for 12 seconds let alone 12 minutes.
Chris, thank-you for the tutorial on the front and rear brake rotors and pads replacement. Ordered all the parts online (Zimmermann Coat Z rotors and Akebono ceramic pads) for around $420 and did them following your detailed video. I second using the VAG-com (already had one) to retract the rear electronic parking brake instead of trying to do it as others have suggested by using wires and jumping from the battery. Out of curiosity, I went to the local Audi dealership to get a quote for the entire job...the quote was front ($965 parts, labor and tax) and rear ($949 parts, labor and tax). You saved me a ton of money!! Thanks again for the excellent videos.
Wow its expensive in USA, what about smaller good reputation.garages? I would pay around 250 to 300£ for that in UK with parts and labour
Thanks. Perfectly clear and easy to follow. You got lucky with the torx bolts--the ones on my back brakes were so corroded that the heads stripped with the lightest pressure. I replaced all the torx bolts with stainless steel ones.
This video saved me $600! Thanks!
Happy to hear that!
That's a good save
Thanks!
No problem!
I've already commented on your video about the rear pad replacement. Again, great job and very helpful.
Thx again!
8:30 8:50 Lol, never fails. You try to clean the rotors off first thing, and the next second it’s covered in greasy fingerprints
😂
Thank you for the reminder of why the $590 to get this done at the shop will be worth it for me!
Cool video! only missing was cleaning the calipers, etc... ; )
Great video. One pin at 7:50 is really stuck and rusted, is that have to be replaced?
I would do whatever you have to do to get it out and grease it so it moves or replace it
Great how-to. Can you please do one which clearly shows where to put the axle stands. thanks.
Its is going to be put on the sub frame where the lower control arm is bolted in
@@chrisdelucia2672 Do you have any photos. It looks like it will slip off. Thanks. I'm a novice
@@uhjk91 you can also do it the way shown on this video. Just make sure to stay on the pinch weld. ua-cam.com/video/ezkFgVLPe_g/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. I plan to change my pads n rotors in my 07 A4 real soon
Although the 07 a4 is a different chassis then my 2010 in the video, the process of changing you brakes will be the same
Should have used a wire brush to take off any debris on the wheel hub as well as using copper anti seize
Also should have used a wire brush to brush dirt, dust and debris off the caliper carrier or anywhere the brakes come in contact with metal... that also goes for the rear .. always use anti seize where needed
Great recommendation, all of that will help for sure
Not a problem ! I'm a DIY type of guy so I've learned things as I go along... some things are pretty straight forward such as replacement of the brake pads/rotors
Very helpful, thanks for making the vids.
Glad to help
About to change the pads on my s4. Aren't the 13mm and 21mm bolts stretch bolts? I went to the store and picked up a new set for $10. Also what are the torque specs for the two sets of bolts? Great video though
They say they should be replaced but I have reused numerous times over the years. Torque is 45ftlbs
@@chrisdelucia2672 perfect! thank you, replacing them tomorrow
@EuroBomb 75ftlbs + 90deg
Great explain !!
Did you reuse the abutment clip at 9:02, or did you replace it with new one?
I did put a new one on because it came with the pads. If you don't have one you do not have to replace it, the old one will be fine.
@@chrisdelucia2672 Thanks for the quick reply!
Just seen this for my 14 A4, did the rear at the mechanic, did the front myself, this was a good vid, thanks!
how do you take off the brake sensor? I cant take apart the junction piece. Please help.
You should be able to just pull it off. It just clips in
Nice description of the work thanks
Leo 🇨🇷
You can check out this video of me using the device to replace the brake pedal: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html, it might help a little.
Does that grill fit a 2012?? If so where can I buy it from??
Awesome video, Chris! I notice in your "Entire Front/Rear Rotor/Pads Bundle" that the only new screws/bolts were the rotor set screws. Do people re-use the other bolts or do they replace them? Anyone have part numbers? I have been told N91147601 x 4 for the front and N91041702 x 4 for the rear...can you confirm?
I did not replace them but its a good idea to. Some. rotors will come with the screws but i'm not sure if they did. Sorry I don't know the part #
@@chrisdelucia2672 I had a local Audi dealership price out the parts for a front and rear brake job (pads and rotors) and I given these part numbers:
N-106-83-01 X 4 (rotor set screws)
N-911-476-01 x 4 (front caliper bolts)
N-910-417-02 x 2 (rear caliper bolts)
N-911-268-01 x 2 (rear caliper bolts)
If anyone needs these parts, ECS Tuning has them in stock.
Hey bro quick question before I order how many break pad sensors do I need to replace all 4 rotors and break pads front and back, please reply asap I got limeted time to order
Only 1 on the front have it and none on the rears. So buy 1
@@chrisdelucia2672 Thank you yea I ordered one only, thanks!
How did you reattach the sensor wire? Did you solder it together? Curious if I should just buy a new wear sensor.
Sam Sanchez I just used a wire crimp and put the wires together. I would just buy a new one though
It is all.the same with bottom handbreak ? Or automatic handbreak ?
If it has an electronic ebrake it is all the same
Is there a front and rear pad sensor or just one?
Only 1 on the front
Hi quick question as I’m going to be trying this service myself in the upcoming weeks, what exactly were you using the C Clamp on the piston for? Is it necessary to have to do this service?
I was using it to push the caliper piston back in, you can also do this with a screw driver before you remove the caliper
I have a question..how you grease these pins? I cant find anything on these pins or audi A5 pins/slide guids..thanks for respond
My fathers b8 is having a slight brake overheating issue... Only the front left brake is getting hot but not red hot. What could be the issue? Thanks in advance.
Sounds like the brake caliper is seized. I would take it off and see if the sliders and caliper pistons is moving freely.
Hi that 2 retractable bushing that you take the 13 mm off mine is stock and it’s really not moving or play at all any suggestions?
You have the get the out grease them so they move. Try a vice or press to get them out. If you cant then it may be time to replace it
c.delucia yeah thanks for the tip the bolt guide is all rusted it’s ruin cheap replacement and one more thing about your vag com cable were and what kind exactly can I get them please and thank you
Very helpful. Thanks!
Better lighting would help tremendously. Good video though
Hey - how do I reset my Audi brake pad sensors after changing FRONT rotors and pads? Don’t I have to activate the brake pads so the car knows that they are much thicker than the old pads? Can I do this without a scan tool?
Hey buddy, great video - best I've seen for front brakes. Have you had to replace your front control arms yet? I have your car but wagon version and need to change all front control arms, but thought maybe you knew of a solid kit? Thanks!!
Hey Brandon glad you enjoyed the video. I have not yet had to do the control arms, but on my older b5 a4 I changed them many times. I have used FPC control arms a few times because of how cheap they are, but they defiantly do not last close to as long as OEM. If you have the money to spend always go OEM, if not FPC isn't a bad option for the price.
Hi Chris,
Did the brakes you put on make any squeaking sounds since you put them on?
I have occasionally but it usually wears through that part of the pad and goes away
Where are you?
NY
What do you need the computer for ?
It is only needed for doing the rear brakes. This used to retract the electronic e brake on the rear. If you're just doing the front you do not need the computer
I have the same brakes used ebc pads and brembo discs but now i have rattle going over any bumps but wont rattle if i apply the brakes any ideas ?
ebc pads might be noisy, or check the clips on each caliper to make sure its apply pressure to the pads
Where did you get that front grill?
Lots of places online you can get them. Its a replica RS4. Ebay, ECSTuning, etc. Just google it
Good tutorial! Are the pads as low dust as the OEM's? Also, where did you find the S rims - a shop that sells them or used? Thinking of upgrading the ones on my A4 Avant which are currently 17's. Thanks!
The pads are actually less dusty than than the OEM ones. I found my S wheels used on vwvortex marketplace.
Would this be the same process for an Audi A5? Thanks
Yes it would!
Hey man quick question, when doing front brakes do you put the e-brake on? I drive the B8 6MT, I can easily park on level ground for it to not roll but i’m curious if the e-brake should be on? I’ve seen mixed videos and mixed installation things so i’m trying to find the appropriate approach.
I would say it doesn't have to be on but if you are in fear of the car moving with the front wheels off of the ground then go ahead and put it on. Also leave the car in gear and it should help not roll.
Chris DeLucia awesome man! i appreciate it!
Hey! Nice video it really looks good and made it possible for everybody to do this kinda job! I’m about to order my parts but it’s hard to find the right brake disks diameter which one should i order? I see a lot of 314mm in the front and 300mm disk in the rear should that be fine or should i be looking for other disks?
I know the fronts are 12.6" but not sure size of the rear
This is very helpful, I am doing this tomorrow night on my 2013 A4 that just hit 81,000 miles and will use this as a guide along with the video for the rear brakes. I have a carista to release the emergency brake in the back. How long of a job was it? Realistic to do front and rear brakes in 2 hours? Thanks
Happy to hear that you found this helpful. As for a first time doing the brakes on the car I would say realistically probably around 3 hours to be safe. If you run into any questions let me know
what tool need for caliper bolt？
I can't seem to get my caliper to let loose of the rotor when taking it off. Got the two 13 mm bolts out fine, and the caliper wiggles some but won't seem to budge off the rotor. Any tips for getting those off?
Sometimes the lip of the worn rotor will catch on your brake pads and make it hard to pull off. Try pressing the caliper piston back in with a flathead screw driver. You should be able to get a screw flathead driver in-between the rotor and old brake pad on the back of the caliper and pry it the piston/pad back in.
Worked for me! Thanks for the help!
Anytime
With new pad replacement, you’ll need to replace the wear sensor as long as resetting the pad wear in vagccom. (Possible pad fault light on dash)
Heard that you have to change those 2 bolts at the back (13mm). They stretch when you torque them to the spec and can only be used once! Is this true?
According to Audi you should replace but it is totally not needed
My brakes rattle now over bumps how can I fix that
lowis hitan if everything is tight then nothing should be making noise. Are you sure it’s not the dust shield making noise?
Did you ever figure out what was rattling? I had my brakes done at a shop and driver side makes a rattle noise now 🥴
I think I messed up my car 🤦🏻♀️ I removed the caliper and the brake pads fell out but I just pushed it back in and set it down, I didn’t have the 21mm so I put everything back together so I could go buy it the next day, but next morning car wouldn’t turn on and had lights on dash (ecp, airbags, abs, brakes). I drove the car a few feet to put it in the garage and turned it off before going to sleep after I worked on it. Either something stayed on and drained the battery (it’s 5 months old) or there’s an issue in the brake but I can’t figure it out. Car still won’t turn on and lights on dash are still there.
Sounds like the battery is dead, if the battery is under a certain voltage the car wont even attempt to start
@@chrisdelucia2672 update: new battery in yesterday, turned on and everything went away, turned it off then later in the day drove around a bit and got back home and turned it off. Today it won’t start again, there’s a lot of whining from the dashboard like it’s trying to turn on but can’t, brother told me to check starter and fuel pump relays but idk other than that idk what to do or check
Torque specs??
For the brake carrier bolts: 196 NM. For the caliper bolts: 30NM.
could it be darker?
Maybe it's my phone but the video was kind of dark. Hard to see. Nice video otherwise! Thank you
Stop adding music for instructional videos.
Thanks for input :-)
I like it 😂
I wait one change oil VIDEO......
Im not due for an oil change for another 5k but when the time comes that is a good idea. Thanks
I can;'t see what you;'re doing
You can check out this video of me using the device to replace the brake pedal: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html, it might help a little.
I fucking stripped the rotor screw fuuuuck 😡🤬🤬🤬😫
Thumbs down for not showing how to actually put the clip back on
You can check out this video of me using the device to replace the brake pedal: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html, it might help a little.
Stop the damn music bro. We trying to hear yiu
Your most likely going to do the the job again as you put the best rotors centric makes with the worst pads centric makes. Centric 300 range pads is garbage, can’t use it for German cars and you used 102 c tek pads for the rear. Good luck stopping your car. 100 series OE pads on the front and 104 Posi quite on the back should have been the combo.
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't noticed anything different as far as braking so far but in the future if anything comes up I will try the pads you suggested
Lecrairage est nulle
Bad lighting. Please do something about my guy
Good job but you're breaking my heart. Upgrade your jack before you bugger your sill. Invest in some nylon gloves. Your hands are stinking. Rather than touching and contamination you can just change gloves. Also while the caliper is off plus mount, tidy them up, clean and spray. Also bolts removed, invest in some copper grease. Always copper grease your bolts, you thank yourself upon next visit. Especially your wheel bolts. Also torque your bolts, wheel bolts especially in a cross pattern. Just a few things that I couldn't watch without feeling ill.
Stopped after 10 seconds. If you are seriously going to put videos on UA-cam look up how to do decent audio. Can’t listen to that for 12 seconds let alone 12 minutes.
Great video, thank you!