Just did this today, thank you Aaron this DIY was helpful. Took a solid half hour of hammering and lots of penetrating oil to remove that rotor but the result was satisfying.
Never comment on anything but after watching this video I was easily able to do my front set of rotor and pads on my 2014 s4 keep up the great instructional videos
Thank you so much! For the comment and to let us know that it was helpful. We love hearing that our videos help people save money and to keep their cars in top top shape
Hi, can anyone give me any advise... i have a 2010 s4 b8 and one of my brakes squeek when i drive a lot of the time it only stops when the brake is applied, pads and discs a quite new so is the calapier partially seized or do the slide pins need cleaning and lubrication? Thanks in advance
If you don't grease or clean those pins that the brake pads sit on, could that cause the brake pedal to be soft or cause the brake pads to not fully clamp the rotor when applying the brakes? For what it's worth, I've done this job and I let a brake line get loose and some air got in the system. Bled it, changed BMC, did SS lines on all four corners, pressure bled it, bled the ABS module, have no seized calipers and I still have a soft brake pedal. Not sure what to do at this point. 5:54 is the timestamp for what I am referring to. TIA :)
Instead of removing the caliper carrier to clean those pins, can I just flush the pins with brake cleaner and leave the carrier in place? When I did the brakes on the rear I left the carrier on and cleaned the area where the retaining clips install.
Hi Aaron, bedding in the pads will be pretty standard. If there is a unique process required, those steps are usually included with the pads. You want to avoid using any break-clean when handling zinc-coated rotors to avoid degrading the coating.
Just spray a rag/napkin brake clean and wipe off the rotor face where you see dirt/grease. Not a huge issue, even if you leave it somewhat dirty it won't make a difference you will feel.
Hi Jack, you want to ensure both the carrier and rotor are seated properly. If you have any corrosion buildup on the hub, you want to clean that up as well.
Typically that is going to be on the rear brakes on any VW or Audi that has an electronic parking brake. We use an OBD scanner. The best is the VCDS unit, for use with a laptop, but the Autel stand alone is a good choice if you do not have a laptop computer. www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-vcds-diagnostic-interface-ross-tech-vchv23
Hi Fation, great question. A lot of the vehicles we work on do not always need all the parts being replaced, but we do it just to give the full repair whenever possible!
Torqued parts with lubrication do not represent final torque per spec. In some cases it’s almost double. Here I think you can get away with it as most parts are mold steel.
Bro has an Audi/VW tattoo on his wrist. I'm taking advice from HIM.
😂😂😂😂
That’s dedication 👍
Just did this today, thank you Aaron this DIY was helpful. Took a solid half hour of hammering and lots of penetrating oil to remove that rotor but the result was satisfying.
Never comment on anything but after watching this video I was easily able to do my front set of rotor and pads on my 2014 s4 keep up the great instructional videos
Thank you so much! For the comment and to let us know that it was helpful. We love hearing that our videos help people save money and to keep their cars in top top shape
Costing me $1000 😢😢
Great video. Followed step by step and couldn't have made my brake changed any easier. Greatly appreciated.
Great to hear!
Good timing. Just ordered my new set of brake pads and rotors and plan on working on my car this weekend. Thanks!
Have fun!
Very good step by step. Thank you
Thanks for the DIY buddy! 👍😎
You can check out this video of me using the device to replace the brake pedal: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html, it might help a little.
Do I need pad shims for the brake pads? Mine seems to have clicking noise when I press my brake
Gotta do this on Friday, thank you!
Hope you enjoy!
Does this same process apply to A4 Sline 2015?
How'd you reset the brake light on the dash??
Well done, Aaron.
You can check out this video of me using the device to replace the brake pedal: ua-cam.com/video/8n7VY1RVflw/v-deo.html, it might help a little.
Hi, can anyone give me any advise... i have a 2010 s4 b8 and one of my brakes squeek when i drive a lot of the time it only stops when the brake is applied, pads and discs a quite new so is the calapier partially seized or do the slide pins need cleaning and lubrication? Thanks in advance
If you don't grease or clean those pins that the brake pads sit on, could that cause the brake pedal to be soft or cause the brake pads to not fully clamp the rotor when applying the brakes? For what it's worth, I've done this job and I let a brake line get loose and some air got in the system. Bled it, changed BMC, did SS lines on all four corners, pressure bled it, bled the ABS module, have no seized calipers and I still have a soft brake pedal. Not sure what to do at this point. 5:54 is the timestamp for what I am referring to. TIA :)
So the flat heads the only thing that pushes piston back In
Instead of removing the caliper carrier to clean those pins, can I just flush the pins with brake cleaner and leave the carrier in place? When I did the brakes on the rear I left the carrier on and cleaned the area where the retaining clips install.
Did you use adhesive for the outside pad?
This setup fit on a A4 all road?
You didn’t have to do brake bleeding ?
Do you need to do any break-in? Also do you not spray the rotors with brake clean to get grease or coating?
Hi Aaron, bedding in the pads will be pretty standard. If there is a unique process required, those steps are usually included with the pads. You want to avoid using any break-clean when handling zinc-coated rotors to avoid degrading the coating.
When is the video on the W211 rear suspension control arms?
Waiting for you to make it
Hey I followed this video step by step and now I have no pressure on my brakes? Any recommendations?
Sometimes when pushing the pistons back in you just have to pump your brakes a few times to get pressure back and the pistons happy again.
@@fcpeuro I have pumped them a bunch and still I can push them to the floor. You think I need to bleed them? I couldn’t imagine why
So you don’t have to glue the new brake pad on even though the old one was glued right?
I used the stuff to make ur brakes quiet and just used it as a glue
My pads came with adhesive backing
Great video! Thanks!
So no adhesive goes on the back of the pads?
Hi Chris, usually the residual is enough to hold them in place, the main thing is to get the dowel lined up, and the pad will stay in place!
Is it ok to install rotors that dirty? Like how long does it take and how much effort it needs to have a clean installation?
Just spray a rag/napkin brake clean and wipe off the rotor face where you see dirt/grease. Not a huge issue, even if you leave it somewhat dirty it won't make a difference you will feel.
I had brand new rotors and the caliper carrier is rubbing on them I don’t know what to do
Hi Jack, you want to ensure both the carrier and rotor are seated properly. If you have any corrosion buildup on the hub, you want to clean that up as well.
@@fcpeuro thanks, yea I had to take some rust off with a wire brush to make the rotor sit properly.
@@fcpeuro I’ve cleaned the rust off the hub but when you tighten the 13mm and the other bolt the caliper carrier locks onto the rotor
Same thing I’d happening to me , what fixed your problem?
Great video!!! Do you need to open the brake fluid reservoir cap prior to pushing the pistons back in?
Thank you for watching! No need to open it prior unless you are worried about the fluid level being too high.
I can’t remember if it was the front or back but when I did mine I had to use a OBD scanner to retract my piston on the caliper. How did you do yours?
Typically that is going to be on the rear brakes on any VW or Audi that has an electronic parking brake. We use an OBD scanner. The best is the VCDS unit, for use with a laptop, but the Autel stand alone is a good choice if you do not have a laptop computer. www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-vcds-diagnostic-interface-ross-tech-vchv23
I think the rotors were good, why did you changed them ??
Hi Fation, great question. A lot of the vehicles we work on do not always need all the parts being replaced, but we do it just to give the full repair whenever possible!
Torqued parts with lubrication do not represent final torque per spec. In some cases it’s almost double. Here I think you can get away with it as most parts are mold steel.
did my front rotors and pad on my 2013 s4 and i think i seized it