Someone else had the problem of having the alert staying on after replacing the 12V battery . I had the very same problem. You were the only one suggesting to remove the firamn loop and then only to disconnect the battery. I replaced it with a Honda fit battery, same shape but fortunately even if the pole were reversed the wires are long and felxibke enough to adapt to thise batery. Thanks again for you exhaustive explanations and well done instructive video. Titan1.
Just did this battery swap. A little fiddly BUT done in well under an hour. Two out of five bananas. The negative lead on my Model X went in much more easily and looks more correct after I bent the flat connection tab 90 degrees to make it fit. I used dielectric grease in the leads and I filed the leads to clean corrosion. Getting the bracket back in was a small PIA. Go slow and look carefully to get in place. Don’t force or muscle it. No big surprises and the error code is gone.
The battery i got from you guys for the model X had the battery towards the back and the cables dont fit properly 😒 The battery that you guys use in this video is not the same that i got👎 Other than that your tutorial was really helpful 👍
New batteries typically come with plastic caps on the terminals. Strongly suggest using those caps on the battery terminals in the car during removal. Very difficult to get battery out without touching any metal on the car---sparks galore possible damage
You might want to point out. When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative. Then if your wrench touches the metal in the car while it is on the positive terminal it will not short out.
Thx for a well-done video! Reassembly is not quite the "reverse steps" as the HV Interlock is reconnected before the 12v cables rather than after. Correct?
What happens if I didn't power off during safety and with the safety and security thing? Cuz right now the doors on my car open up and everything (so do the trunks), but the car won't start anymore and neither of the two displays are turning on
Just bought a Tesla model x yesterday. And just browsing on information about my car...will keep your website in case I need a new battery in the future. Very informative and easy to follow video. Thank you.
Never been working on a Tesla where the 12v / emergency loop actually works :D not saying its like that on every S or X. But the 10-15 (different models and years) I'm working on. It never does anything. (I have not tested on my 2023.)
Don’t buy ohmmu 12v battery. That costed me $640 to fix the low voltage battery replacement message. Fortunately return window still open and returned the battery but they charged $38(return label) + $90 (restocking fee). My 20 mx working fine with original battery. Here’s what Tesla said Technician inspected vehicle for customer concern. Technician found upon inspection that the low voltage circuit of the 12 volt battery that vehicle has an aftermarket lithium battery that is causing the LV battery repeatedly overcharging. The LV battery has degraded over time and needs replacement with a proper lead acid original equipment battery. Don’t waste your money and time.
How do you stop the over current, as the DC DC converter is 180A on model S. This surely will trip the internal BMS especially on a smaller LI battery like this.. your 30Ah battery will potentially be receiving a 6C charge. Do you have internal current limit? Or are you relying on winging it?
Totally, definitely “winging it”, haha! We don’t have a problem with a 6C charge when the DC/DC goes into 100% output and every single 12V load in the vehicle suddenly drops out. Our BMS is tolerant of greater Amperage than 180A, actually we design for a predicted max of more like 300A C/D.
I follow every step from this video but my 12v battery must be replaced soon light remains on, I’ve tried rebooting the car but still nothing. Any idea how can I get rid of this light?
Which battery did you install? When you remove the HV tag (first responder loop) and the 12V and wait 5min then every computer in the car will be powered down (except BMS internal to the large battery pack). After you leave disconnected for 5min, then reconnect the first responder loop and then finally reconnect the new 12V battery.
OMG! One of the potentially most consumable parts of a Tesla and it requires basically disassembling the frunk to replace. @ElonMusk what were you thinking. I only hope the next battery doesn't have any issues and lasts as long as it should.
Don't give Elon Musk the credit for literally designing these vehicles, they actually have teams of thousands of engineers who do that work, not him. CEO are mouthpieces and mostly salesmen to investors. Good ones also provide vision and guidance at a 10,000' view of the technology but the real works gets done by the engineers/developers/etc.
@@OhmmuEnergy thanks for the helpful video but I have to disagree with you about Elon. Sure there are a lot of engineers working for him but don’t forget he is also an engineer himself and a very hands on CEO not like others mouth piece as you mentioned. Years ago I went to Tesla shop in Silicone Valley when it was just basically a garage size (about 1/5 of Costco) with a handful of cars and I saw Elon was in the shop working on the early roasters.
Actually it will fit just fine with terminals reversed, this isn't an issue, you just need to unclip the wiring harnesses during install (you need to anyways to remove the bracket) and then rescure them after making the 12V connections so that the wires all run where they need to and don't impede.
Informative video! I have a 2018 75d with 39k original owner miles and just got 12v battery warning today. Many things seem to fail early on my otherwise well maintained vehicle though…Also struck by how difficult they’ve made this process but Maybe it’s not fair to compare battery replacement to the past 10 ice vehicles I’ve owned
Someone else had the problem of having the alert staying on after replacing the 12V battery . I had the very same problem. You were the only one suggesting to remove the firamn loop and then only to disconnect the battery. I replaced it with a Honda fit battery, same shape but fortunately even if the pole were reversed the wires are long and felxibke enough to adapt to thise batery. Thanks again for you exhaustive explanations and well done instructive video. Titan1.
Just did this battery swap. A little fiddly BUT done in well under an hour. Two out of five bananas. The negative lead on my Model X went in much more easily and looks more correct after I bent the flat connection tab 90 degrees to make it fit. I used dielectric grease in the leads and I filed the leads to clean corrosion. Getting the bracket back in was a small PIA. Go slow and look carefully to get in place. Don’t force or muscle it. No big surprises and the error code is gone.
The battery i got from you guys for the model X had the battery towards the back and the cables dont fit properly 😒
The battery that you guys use in this video is not the same that i got👎
Other than that your tutorial was really helpful 👍
Very helpful video. My only suggestion would be to implement a wireless mike so your instructor can be more easily heard. Thanks!
New batteries typically come with plastic caps on the terminals. Strongly suggest using those caps on the battery terminals in the car during removal. Very difficult to get battery out without touching any metal on the car---sparks galore possible damage
You might want to point out. When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative. Then if your wrench touches the metal in the car while it is on the positive terminal it will not short out.
Thx for a well-done video! Reassembly is not quite the "reverse steps" as the HV Interlock is reconnected before the 12v cables rather than after. Correct?
What happens if I didn't power off during safety and with the safety and security thing? Cuz right now the doors on my car open up and everything (so do the trunks), but the car won't start anymore and neither of the two displays are turning on
Other videos I have seen a tube connected to the side of the battery. Didn’t see anything about it in your video.
the Lithium doesn't need a tube like the old lead acid did .
Thank you for the solid info!
Just bought a Tesla model x yesterday. And just browsing on information about my car...will keep your website in case I need a new battery in the future. Very informative and easy to follow video. Thank you.
You will need a new battery. I am on my second in less than a year.
@@aappler1 where did you buy the batterie from
@@vicgorbatenko Tesla service….
@@aappler1 that’s not normal! it should last at least 3 years! I have it since 2018 and only yesterday it gave the warning. (TMX P100D)
@@andream.464 well current one has lasted since dec/Jan. So I think the first one they replaced had an issue. No issues since, but I’m ready.
Never been working on a Tesla where the 12v / emergency loop actually works :D not saying its like that on every S or X. But the 10-15 (different models and years) I'm working on. It never does anything. (I have not tested on my 2023.)
Great job!
Don’t buy ohmmu 12v battery. That costed me $640 to fix the low voltage battery replacement message. Fortunately return window still open and returned the battery but they charged $38(return label) + $90 (restocking fee). My 20 mx working fine with original battery. Here’s what Tesla said Technician inspected vehicle for customer concern. Technician found upon
inspection that the low voltage circuit of the 12 volt battery that vehicle has an aftermarket lithium
battery that is causing the LV battery repeatedly overcharging. The LV battery has degraded over
time and needs replacement with a proper lead acid original equipment battery.
Don’t waste your money and time.
❤where can I buy the battery for this model?
I'm not sure they could have made it any harder to change one of the most common points of failure in the vehicle. Unbelievable.
Watch the video of the early Model S! They made that quite a bit harder!
I just bought this..but there are no place to insert the valve as the original does?
Dont' need to, this battery doesn't off-gas
How do you stop the over current, as the DC DC converter is 180A on model S. This surely will trip the internal BMS especially on a smaller LI battery like this.. your 30Ah battery will potentially be receiving a 6C charge. Do you have internal current limit? Or are you relying on winging it?
Totally, definitely “winging it”, haha! We don’t have a problem with a 6C charge when the DC/DC goes into 100% output and every single 12V load in the vehicle suddenly drops out. Our BMS is tolerant of greater Amperage than 180A, actually we design for a predicted max of more like 300A C/D.
This won’t effect my super charging right?
I follow every step from this video but my 12v battery must be replaced soon light remains on, I’ve tried rebooting the car but still nothing. Any idea how can I get rid of this light?
I have a 2016 Tesla Model X
Which battery did you install? When you remove the HV tag (first responder loop) and the 12V and wait 5min then every computer in the car will be powered down (except BMS internal to the large battery pack). After you leave disconnected for 5min, then reconnect the first responder loop and then finally reconnect the new 12V battery.
OMG! One of the potentially most consumable parts of a Tesla and it requires basically disassembling the frunk to replace. @ElonMusk what were you thinking. I only hope the next battery doesn't have any issues and lasts as long as it should.
Exactly. They can design a reusable rocket, but not easy access to 12v battery in the Tesla !X
Don't give Elon Musk the credit for literally designing these vehicles, they actually have teams of thousands of engineers who do that work, not him. CEO are mouthpieces and mostly salesmen to investors. Good ones also provide vision and guidance at a 10,000' view of the technology but the real works gets done by the engineers/developers/etc.
@@OhmmuEnergy thanks for the helpful video but I have to disagree with you about Elon. Sure there are a lot of engineers working for him but don’t forget he is also an engineer himself and a very hands on CEO not like others mouth piece as you mentioned.
Years ago I went to Tesla shop in Silicone Valley when it was just basically a garage size (about 1/5 of Costco) with a handful of cars and I saw Elon was in the shop working on the early roasters.
Terminals were reverse and as a result it does not properly fit
Actually it will fit just fine with terminals reversed, this isn't an issue, you just need to unclip the wiring harnesses during install (you need to anyways to remove the bracket) and then rescure them after making the 12V connections so that the wires all run where they need to and don't impede.
Good
What is the life of these batteries. My regular model s battery so far have 4 years and 6 months
That’s quite good on the AGM, we suspect 8-10 years life but we fully guarantee 4 years
Informative video! I have a 2018 75d with 39k original owner miles and just got 12v battery warning today. Many things seem to fail early on my otherwise well maintained vehicle though…Also struck by how difficult they’ve made this process but Maybe it’s not fair to compare battery replacement to the past 10 ice vehicles I’ve owned
All these works to replace a battery?! What the #&$%?!
this is far more complicated that the regular car. Not worth my time