BMS calibration: how to regain the "lost" miles on your car
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- Over the past few weeks I've seen a lot of people asking about the range of their car and why it has dropped from any previous point. While there is a slight degradation of the battery pack itself from using and abusing it, degradation is not always top blame. You may actually regain some of those lost miles by recalibrating the Battery Management System.
In this video I explain the 2 major causes besides actual degradation for losing depicted range. And I also teach you the procedure to recalibrate the Battery Management System and regain some of that "lost" range!
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Another awesome video. You are a gem. I watch allot of Tesla content and am very technical. You are a breath of fresh air!
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Awesome video thanks so much for this valuable knowledge, I didn’t know if it was possible to do it ourselves.
Great job 👏🏻
Remember folks you never really gain or lose anything. Respect the batteries limitations and just enjoy the car.
Thank you so much for informative answers
To get a 'random' set of lower Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) at differing SOCs use the built-in departure time charger in your Tesla. i.e. Your car will sit at the lower SOC/OCV level until it calculates when it needs to start charging to meet your departure time. So weekend vs weekday vs odd days ... you'll give the BMS stable OCV values to factor in.
Awesome info thank you!!!
Thank you Steven!
You are welcome
Nice video, I agree with your method 👍
Great video, thank you for doing this for us! I think some people still think they are driving a golf car 🚙. They do need recalibration 😂😂
Thank you. I did just one session and “regained” 10 miles. Was setting charge limit to 70%.
Thank you so much for your information and knowledge, I want to do the calibration, but not sure if I should do it yet as my car is 2 months old M3LR and the charge limited state is 572.. after one time I did a fast charge..
Not useful at all. This is only necessary when you constantly charge very small amount for a long time. You don’t gain anything, you just correct the estimation with this
Great video 👌🏼
Thank you 🙌
I bought used 2020 Tesla model 3 long range(33000). Even though Tesla site said 330mile, I received as 275miles max. And they said it is because I got used car…. Reason I purchased used long range is I need to have long range…. This is not I was expected. They want me to wait one month and do battery check with them remotely. It seems I need to take care of myself. So!!! I followed what you said step by step and I did 2 cycles. Now my Tesla max mile is 297miles. And now I’m doing third cycle let’s see how much it can be better. Thank you sooooo much my nightmare is almost done. Even small amount of degradation is expected. So I’m happy but Tesla used from their site is not professional battery is the most expensive part and they didn’t describe clearly. Have a great day thank u again!
Keep in mind tgat over the years, Tesla also changes the vinstant for the car to be more representative. What is dhown on the website, is WLTP and will never match what is on the dash
Well thanks a lot my 6 month's model 3 sr + shows 406 kilometers at 100% down from 425 kilometers. Tesla says nothing's wrong with my battery ( no degradation ). I'll try the re-calibration thing on my next holidays. Thank you very much for the tip ;)
You do have the biggest degradation in the first 20.000 miles or so
@@StevenPeeters I heard about it. it's around 5 or 7 % right ?
@@anthonyrtsla5345 It depends from car to car but on average is it in that ballpark area
also my 6 months tesla model 3 lost almost 30 kilometers.
what you mean that tesla said you don't have degradation?
@@s.b.85558 I called SC. They told me after looking at battery every thing was fine. I used dynoset mode when 1.24 was released and obviously they didn't lie to me. Dyno said 51.3 kWh. Just sked to SC 10 mins ago he told me it's fine for a 55kwh full Californian battery. So it's just a miss calibration I guess. Still working soon on Holliday's I'll try empty my battery and then refill up to 100% to adjust calibration
Hello, Steven thank you so much I tried last week it added 10% back to my 2018 model 3. Next question how often i should calibrate the battery?
Not too often. If you notice the range being off. 2 times a year or something
Thank you for the great video. One question please, after.slow charge to 100%, do we remove the charger from the port and let’s it test for 3hr. Or, we leave the charger in the port and let’s it rest for 3hr? Thank you so much,
Doesn’t really matter. Either works afaik
We gaan het proberen thanks
Thanks Steven for the helpful video. I’ve had an issue with my car for some time and I was hoping this BMS calibration procedure would help. The issue is that when I charge my car to its charge limit, say 60%, within a short period of time (eg 30 min? Perhaps an hour? Perhaps 2 hours? I’m not sure), the SOC drops down by a fixed 2%, ie down to 58% (sometimes it drops by 3% to 57% SOC - sometimes, but more rarely, it jumps by 2% to 62% SOC). I don’t think there is anything draining the battery (sentry mode is off, summon standby mode is off, HVAC is off, no third party app is connected to the car, I’m not playing with the Tesla app, etc), which I think is confirmed by the fact this phenomenon only occurs after a charge (if I leave the car sitting not after a charge, it loses barely nothing - perhaps 1% per day max? Even less?). So I thought this was a BMS calibration issue and have therefore tried the BMS calibration procedure a couple of times (I even went as far as driving the car to 0% since I know there is a buffer under that 0%), but that didn’t help. Do you have any idea? Thanks
Hi Scott, my first thought would be that the cells are balancing once you stop charging at 60%. Not all cells fill up equally fast, so some are more charged than others. The packs will constantly balance itself, so higher charged cells will "leak" into lower charged cells. Kind of like the communicating vessels. Do you have the same behaviour when charging to 90%? If so, I would contact Tesla for an explanation regarding your car specifically. And make sure to mention exact timestamps so they can check the logs.
Thanks for taking the time to respond Steven. Out of curiosity, I charged to 90% last night and the phenomenon didn’t occur - ie the car was still at 90% when I jumped in it this morning. Seems to confirm your theory!? :-)
Hi Steven.... in steps 2 and 4 of the calibration procedure, do I need to unplug in order for my Model 3 to be in deep sleep? Thank you in advance.
That is the best option, so the car doesn’t want to juice up on its own. Normally it won’t, but better safe than sorry
HI steven! great great video and explanation of calibration & BMS. I had NO idea what it was and how it worked. I am DEFINITELY gonna do this. Question how often shld I do a battery calibration?
It depends on your charging habits. If you never go down to the single digits, then don’t worry about it. If you, like me, constantly charge 20-90%, then don’t worry about it.
If you always want accurate numbers, you could do this like 2 times a year maybe.
@@StevenPeeters appreciate it. So even the 20-80% charging I actually didn't understand it properly till a Tesla tech came by to replace my filters&explained it to me. I had never let the battery go dwn to 20% then charge bck to 80. Now I am doin tht now. Other quest. Since I don't commute daily(covid wrkin frm home) & ocassionallu run errands and go to the gym, does it "hurt" the long term health of the battery if the car jst sits there? Thank u
@@StevenPeeters I will definitely do the recalibration 2 make sure the bms is wrking properly
@@darknight2628 It doesn’t hurt the battery at all when you don’t use it, as long as it is not empty or completely full. It’s fine. The Tesla takes care of the Tesla 😉
@@StevenPeeters appreciate it Steven. Thank u for tasking the time to respond to my questions. This is my 1st EV so it's been a steep but interesting learning curb. As u know Tesla doesn't have the comms setup for customers 2 ask questions and learn! 😕
Thanks for the video. I plan on trying this, but one question: after the car charges to 100%, is it okay to leave the charger plugged in during the second sleep cycle (assuming that doing so will not wake up the car)?
Best to unplug. Contactors need to be open
Great video thank you. I did 3 discharges 20-90% so far didn’t gain much. I am not driving much and let car to sleep for 1-3 hours after each drive. I am at 10K miles and I am off by 15 miles. Tesla recommended to do the same thing . What am I doing wrong? Should I really drop to 5%?
It could be that you’re BMS was not out of balance in the first place
Out of curiosity, is there any bemefit to pre-condition the battery when charging at 11kw? I know its typically recommended for DC fast charging and not mentioned for fast AC charging.
Not at all. AC charging doesn’t produce any significant heat like fast charging does
5:42 when I charge back to 100%, does that have to be done in a single session? Or does it still work if I charge to 80 then stop, drive around a few miles and come back and charge to 100%?
1 single charging session is best. The BMS is recalibrating at this point
Here's a thought.......just leave it plugged in ALWAYS while not driving, as recommended by Tesla....it's right there in the manual under the "About the Battery" chapter. :P
Owners seem to like to come up with the wildest charging habits and practices thinking they know better. It says right there in the manual no cycling needed, no reason to wait until the battery is low to charge, and the battery will perform its best when charged regularly. Just leave it plugged in and the BMS will work it's magic.
I charge my 2018 LR RWD Model 3 to 90% daily, leave it plugged in always to my NEMA 14-50 outlet and now after 39-Months my battery will still charge over 300mi at 100% of its original 310mi rating.
Always plugging it in means short charging sessions and that is exactly what is causing the issue in the first place. Also confirmed by Tesla 😉
@@StevenPeeters I guess my pack and car is magic then ::::SHRUG:::
I charge my 2018 LR RWD Model 3 to 90% daily, leave it plugged in always to my NEMA 14-50 outlet and now after 39-Months my battery will still charge over 300mi at 100% of its original 310mi rating.
@@NJturtlePower what’s the SoC when you start charging?
@@StevenPeeters depends on the day...but I usually only use 5-15% most days working only 5mi down the road. Been down to 0% once, below 10% a handful of time...either way, I come home and it's going to 90% SOC daily.
Charging to 100% as advertised/recommended by tesla is only for LPF battery (standard range) Long Range models uses NMC battery and Tesla advise/recommends to charge those to round 80%
Top balancing battery is worst degradation you can have. The bms will try and lower the voltage of the worst cell. Thus I try to keep car at 80% or 75%.
I‘ve asked many times the Tesla Service Center regarding the cell balancing. I was always told, that this is done automatically, if I charge to 90%. As my car is still in repair after someone crashed into my car, I could try it out, but, did you get this information from Tesla?
Cell balancing is always happening more or less. But in the last percentage, there is still some margin. This is about the calibration of your BMS. Totally different thing. If you charge regularly between 20 and 90% then your BMS is normally calibrated.
I have only received my Model 3 LR in Australia 3 weeks ago (China Car) It does not have the LFP battery pack. I have been topping up the battery at home at 5kw AC charger after short trips even when the battery is at 72% back to 80% Is then the best practice or should I discharge to a lower level.
Discharge to lower level every few months to keep the BMS calibrated. Or a few days before you take a big trip where you need close to the full capacity
Hi Steven. Thanks very much for your video. How do I put the car into deep sleep after 100% charge and also how I limit the charge to max 11kw? TIA
Just leave the car alone to let it sleep and turn sentry mode completely off.
As for charging, you can go to the charging screen or app and limit the rate to 16A if you are on 3-phase and 230V. In other regions you’ll have to do the math with the voltage and phases you have on your grid
Thank you for posting this! Do we leave the car plugged in after it charges to 100% or unplug it?
I’m also one of those drivers that often charges in small increments, for example from 60 to 85%.
Should I actually bother about BMS calibration knowing that my Leasing TM3 LR from 2019 will be returned in 2023 or 2024 ?
The battery itself is not affected. So, as long as you don’t plan any big trips where you will go below 10% SoC, you’re fine
I performed the steps on my 2021 M3LR result est range is 358Miles @ 100%_ thank you
what was it before the procedure?
Hi! I am from Europe, and we have different power of electricity between US and Europe. Can you explain what type of charging is more better for battery? 1 phase 3-5 kW, or 3phases 10-15 kW?
I’m from Belgium, so on the same 3-phase power. 😉 It really doesn’t matter at this low charging speeds. What you will see in winter, when preconditioning, is that the heating takes so much power that it won’t charge anymore. I usually charge at 3-phase 6A nowadays (4.3kW) since we are being punished for drawing high currents with a tax on our peak power draw.
When you waiting at 5%, shouldn’t you turn everything off like Sentry and phone key so the car can truly go to sleep?
Can you mention a list of settings for it to sleep deeply please????
No need for any settings. Sentry doesn’t work below 20% and your phone should be out of reach. Don’t look at the app because that keeps the car awake. But nothing special to do
Good information my battery went from 326 to 316 miles I'm going to try this my car is brand new on 13k miles on it 2022 y I'll let you know if this works thank you
Did it work?
Hi Steve , does all this apply in Nissan leaf also ?
I do not know how the BMS works in a Nissan Leaf, but the principle is the same for all batteries: you cannot know accurately how much energy you put in a baterry, only what you pull out of it. So charging small increments gradually makes it deviate from accurate readngs
I believe that when you drive the car from 100% down to say 5% to check the number of KWH you could take out of the battery you need to drive not too fast to avoid heat loss. In addition you need to know the KWH of the battery when new.
Indeed, as I mentioned, you’d need to have the original numbers ideally. But you can go by others’ numbers when nee to get an idea. It will not differ by a full percent
@@StevenPeeters Do you agree on the driving speed comment? Also do you have a list of KWH kapacity by battery pack size? E.g. a 85 KWH pack does not nearly have that capacity available, so therefore you need to know the net capacity to calculate the degradation.
@@HansKruse heat is indeed a loss that os not shown in the graph. But the increased A/C performance to cool it down is visible. However, you are right thst the best reading will not happen by rmptying your battery on the Autobahn 😉
@@HansKruse I have to look up the numbers for the packs when new. I remember that gor the P100D there was about 98kWh usable and the pack is actually 102.4kWh. 85 pack had sonething like 78kWh available when new
Is this up to date? Would this "battery health test" in service menu do the same?
Yes, it is up to date and yes the battery health test would roughly do the same. But tgat gives you an indication of the health, not the exact capacity you have remaining.
And it is always more fun to take a long drive than to just use the heater to drain the battery 😉
If you dont drive after 100%, just turn on sentry and will lower soc very soon
I came across this video very late (and now I have subscribed!). I have a question: at minute 11:52 you start explaining the procedure to allow the BMS to "know" the status of the battery and let it know what corresponds to 100% in terms of kWh in the battery. I get it. What is not entirely clear to me is that the driving really has to be done in one "shot." That is, without pauses... without leaving the car in the garage overnight. I guess the "one-shot" driving is to ensure that the "vampire drain" is negligible in the calculations made by the BMS/Software; is that so ?
But what if we make it negligible by forcing the climate control to the maximum at night? There is an option (which I have never used) to achieve this. A full climate (max temperature, heated seats and steering wheel) should consume about 4kW (right?).
What are your thoughts on this? Would this do the trick ?
Thanks, and congrats for the precise and nice video.
Recently, Tesla has provided this heater method for a battery health test you can do via the hidden service menu. But if you want to waste a bunch of energy, why not enjoy a nice drive in the process? 😉
@@StevenPeeters 😄
Is this the same procedure with an LFP battery?
Yes
Hi Steven, thanks for the great video. There is a lot of misperception on the Internet about battery calibration. I do have a question though: I tried your method yesterday and this morning the car stopped charging at 93%. The message was ‘charging complete’. The slider was at 100% but the car refused to charge more then 93%. Do I have a problem now with the car being unable to ever reach 100%? What should I do? I took the car for a short drive and I noticed that I had no regen when I let go of the accelerator pedal, assuming the battery was indeed at it’s utmost capacity (although only at 93%) or the BMS believed it was. I don’t remember having limited regen at 93% before.
There have been reports recently about cars stopping the charge too soon. I think it is a software bug. Have you tried rebooting the car?
Regardless of the actual degradation, it should always be able to go to 100%.
@@StevenPeeters , I did not reboot the car (yet), but took it for a short drive as mentioned. When I then started recharging with the slider set to 90% at a certain point of time the car reported ‘charging complete’. To my surprise the charge state was 95% whereas the slider was still at 90%??. Took it for a longer drive and waited overnight with charging. Let it. Sit at 81%. This morning I charged again to 100% and it stopped at 99%, so it seems it is ‘recovering’ from the 93%. The mileage unfortunately dropped significantly from the former 354km at 100% to only 342km at 99% now. Factory delivery was at 375km in 2018. I guess I have to accept my losses here…….
@@vipercat6630 that will be the cell balancing process then. Actually becoming a good example of the process, it seems
@@StevenPeeters , I agree and happy to see the proces works (to a certain extent). Less happy with the 342km at 99% of course, but who knows this will recover over time. Thanks!
Hi, have you tried the recalibration process yourself? I see other people around saying it’s a lie. Thx.
I did, but my BMS is always calibrated as I constantly charge
How often can you do this? Thanks
As often as you want. Will only have effect if you mostly charge small amounts. If you charge 20-90% all the time, like me, it won’t make much difference
Does the balancing chart apply to both the SR and LR batteries?
Yes. It’s about the BMS
Thank you for your wonderful video!
@@devinandrew8141 you are welcome!
Hey Steven dit you gif up with the Autopilot tests?
I do test each version but there is literally nothing that changes anymore. So nothing to report on, sadly.
I fear it will be like this until FSD is rolled out
I’ve been waiting for at least a tiny improvement to report 😢
@@StevenPeeters OK. I can understand that. I see a few changes, but not really any improvements.
So I noticed that on the highway, after catching up on a column, when it picks up again, it doesn't really accelerate for a long time and the distance keeps getting bigger. I then feel compelled to step on the accelerator myself. I was wondering if you could find that out too?
@@alfredotubeme yes, if the car in front is slowly getting away it takes forever before it accelerates again
I have a 2013 model s and it won't charge over 35 miles it has the charge reduced on the dash noticed it after one of the updates
35 miles? Or 35kW?
I have a 2022 M3P that is supposed to have a range of 315 miles. I have never when charging to 100% got it to say over 306 miles. I took it to Tesla and they told me nothing wrong with battery I have only charged to 100% twice in 3 months. I usually only charge to 80% but I am running it to 5% now and will try your process. Thanks
What Tesla claims on the website and what you see on the dash doesn’t match. Those are different numbers. EPA/WLTP/NEDC are only theoretical numbers.
Ironically it seems that these actions will ‘stress’ your battery even if it is only a minor stress it will still have a negative impact on the battery, I just know what I can rely on my car to do and don’t sweat the displayed information.
It's perfectly fine as long as you don't do this very often. As you said, it's a minor stress that has virtually zero impact on the battery.
Oost-Vlaanderen represents :)
Good morning can you tell me how you can see the recordings of the sentinel mode in the model s. Thanks
I guess you mean Sentry Mode? First of all, you need to have MCU2. If not, you can't record the clips. Then you have to have the properly formatted USB drive to record it on. And then you either connect it to your computer and view it like any other video, or you can click the dashcam icon and select "launch viewer" from the dropdown menu to view the clips in the car.
During those three hours deep sleep state, do I have to keep the car plugged in?
Unplugged is probably best to be sure the contactors remain open
@@StevenPeeters In other comments below, you said it doesn't need to be unplugged while the car sleeps. Does it really need to be unplugged for the contractors to remain open?
So you said to charge to 100%, then let it rest for 3 hours, then you said make sure you drive it right away bc it’s not good for the car to sit at 100% charge. So do I drive then let it sit for 3 hours ?
It’s ok to do this dor this purpose. But don’t make a habbit out of charging to 100% and letting it sit there. Unless you have the LFP battery, you would damage the battery health if you do this often
Thank you. This was very interesting to watch and learn. I have a problem with my 2015 Model S P85D. My car Super Charges (I have only done it a very few times to 100%) to 233 Miles at 96% and stops charging and says "Charging Complete". My car has 35,000.0 miles on it. I watch UA-cams where owners have older Model S cars, cars with batteries with less rated KW and they claim their cars charge to 260+ miles at 100% on a Super Charger. Or some with over 80,000.0 miles say their car charges to "only 240 Miles" at 100% on a Super Charger. What is wrong with my car's battery? It is still under warranty for three more months.
If you are really worried, the nhave Tesla review your battery. I have heard before about the charging not reaching the target percentage. Once if the reasons could be an unbalanced pack, or maybe even one of the modules malfunctioning. As said, have it checked by Tesla
@@StevenPeeters OK. I will ask them.
@@benkanobe7500What was your outcome Ben? I have a 2015 S with a reman battery that has a few months' warranty left. Thanks.
@@Toob41 I found a UA-cam by a guy who talked about resetting your charging by a method of running the battery down in the single digits. Then, let it sit for 24 hours, then charge it to 100%. I followed his method exactly (I think he called it "recalibrating"). My car jumped up to 244 miles at 100% after completing his method.
I have noticed two things: 1.) The most important thing you can do to get the maximum 100% charge is to use the Navigate to Supercharger function on your car that is at least 15 (or more) miles away.from the point you begin. Even if you have driven there a hundred times, use the navigate function and your car will correctly prepare the battery for Super Charging.
2.) Temperature affects the maximum charge I get by as much as 10 miles. But see number "1.)" above and follow that always. We purchased a second 2015 identical to mine for my wife and her car gets between 230 to 240 at 100% with 45K miles using the Navigate to SuperCharger function. I think it is just what a 2015 P85 gets in reality. Tire pressure makes a difference as does the "calibration".
@@benkanobe7500 That's good thanks. My S 85 from 2015 is reporting 230 miles at 100% before recallibration. I was wondering if you got Tesla SC to test the battery while under warranty to try to get a replacement?
I got a long range rwd m3 and it comes with a 78kw battery. The range is never the same each charge and nowhere near what the wtlp advertized. As speed, load and weather is never a constant so the estimated range also varies. Measuring the kw/battery % seems a better idea to measure degradation.
% says nothing about degradation. The car's 100% will always be 100%, even when it is way lower due to degradation.
WLTP stands for Way Less Than Predicted, which is already better than the previous NEDC norm, which stands for Not Even Distantly Close 🤣
There is not a single car in the world, ICE or EV, that gets the actual WLTP range in the real world, unless you drive like a grandma. However, every Tesla I've owned has always been the same for each charge until it started degrading. Not as you mention, with each charge resulting in a different number. If that is the case, then there is something seriously wrong with your car
So in the beginning I put in 47kw for 60% of battery charge. Come 4 years the same 47kw will be the same 60%? I don't think so...
@@jluis333 What I mean is that percentage does not say anything about the real capacity. 100% SoC at the beginning will be 75kWh (not kW 😉), but after 4 years the same 100% indication on your car will only be 68kWh, for example (if you have 10% degradation). In miles or kilometers you will see a difference in estimated range, but it will always be 100% SoC
Once charged to 100% do you unplug it and let it deep sleep, or keep it plugged in?
Once charged to 100% you drive it! Not goid for the battery to leave it sit there for a longer time. Just take a drive and get it down to 90% again
@@StevenPeeters in the video he talks about letting it sleep after 100%, so the car learn the full battery level. I’m just wondering if that’s done with it plugged in.
@@nmracer4632 Ah, you mean that part. That doesn't really matter. The car won't start charging again until it loses a few percent. You can leave it plugged in. The main thing is to not look at the car in the app or open the door, walk around it with the keyfob/phone, so it doesn't wake up.
Tried and it didn't do any good to me, but thanks.
I am being advised by an official Tesla technician to perform this procedure, not to regain range but to stop the car from overestimating range. My P85 is 10 years old and has developed a nasty habit of shutting down for low voltage even while showing plenty of range left. First time, 18 miles. Next time 21. Latest time, 43 miles estimated, shut down for low voltage. They say nothing is wrong with the pack and the BMS is just miscalibrated. I'll try anything at this point...
Hence the quotes around “lost”. Degradation happens to every battery. This procedure is indeed to make sure the BMS is calibrated and the remaining range is more accurate instead of overestimated, potentially leaving you stranded when you think you still have range left
@@StevenPeeters as far as I'm concerned, the best thing that can happen is I finish this procedure and instead of 195 miles at 90% the car tells me it has 160. That would increase my confidence more than any other result.
Never had Battery degregration issues and charges at 100%. I have a 2012 Model S P85 with 135k miles and received a code BMS_U018 and will no longer charge over 17%. The car worked great till one day this error occured. Tesla says I need a new Battery. Am I being lied to? How can I get rid of this code and get back to charging over 17%?
Things can happen suddenly leading to battery failure. Tesla will not tell you to get a new battery for fun. 😉
@StevenPeeters ty for the reply. Not fun to receive a $14,000 bill all of a sudden.
@@steve007lax that is true. But the car is 11 years old
I am not sure what you mean when you say to charge car slowly...max 11kW.....why would not not give that in amps as the car does? You can adjust the amps in the car but no where do you see kW.
Because it all depends on the grid type and network you use. 230V vs 110/120V as well as single phase vs 3-phase. kW is the only true constant and indication of power. Amperages vary based on other variables
@@StevenPeeters no supercharger?
@@eletrohitsbr not for this
@@StevenPeeters RIP fixing my battery while living in an apartment then haha
@@eletrohitsbr your battery is fine. It’s the bms. And any public AC charging station will do
How do you make the car going into “deep sleep”?
Just leave the car alone. Don't check on it. It will go to sleep all by itself. That is why it needs those hours to be sure that it has gone into that state and has had enough time for the measurement. If you look at the app after that, you will see a "waking up" message.
@@StevenPeeters my car (model S 100D - 2017) never goes into deep sleep. Never once in it's entire life.
@@f205v I thought there a setting in the menu to 'not go in deepsleep', because it takes longer to wake up when you leave.
How do my comments keep being deleted on where this same info is explained?
I don't know. I still see your initial comment...
@@StevenPeeters thx. I pointed to a TMC thread that talks about this and the owner getting recommendations from Tesla. My comments were removed twice. My other post without the reference to the TMC thread was always left as is.
@@Scott-sm9nm bizarre. I didn’t do anything. Must be UA-cam algorithm. That changes often
@@StevenPeeters thanks for your follow-up and the video. I'm now guessing it was an auto-spam detection since it had a URL in it.
How to put car to sleep? 2014 model S60
Just leave it alone
@@StevenPeeters thank you, I did it yesterday, started charging at 5% soc couldn't go over 95% soc , computer stated charging complete at 95% soc. Should I do it again, to try to get it to 100% soc? I am glad that bms_u018 fault code is no longer active. Power in 39kwh to charge, power out 33kwh to 5% soc, 123 miles driven , 268wh/mi average. I have 60 kwh battery, what is my degradation percentage? I guess it is about 36%?
@@mirkop1983 Did you let it sit at 95% for many hours? It should go to 100%. That's the balancing part at the top. You don't measure the power going in, but the power you can draw out of the battery. That is the only accurate measurement of the battery. So let it sit until it reaches 100% and then drive it down close to zero to know how much you consumed. A 60kWh battery pack should have like 55kWh usable when new. If your battery pack degradation is over 20% and your pack is stll under warranty, Tesla should replace it.
@@StevenPeeters at first was 10 years warranty when I bought the car , later they cut it to 8 years motor and battery warranty. They said it expired March 6th last year, don't know how that is legal, but they obviously getting away with it.
@@mirkop1983 If you still have the original document and it was signed and dated, then they should honor it imho. I'm not a lawyer though
from 5% to 100% slow charging (220 v @ 30 amp) or super charging?
Just home charging. No supercharging for this
@@StevenPeeters thank you!
Example of charging at 11 KW
Lol I have my car for 4 months and I’m at 14.2k miles I hope this thing lasts me long
It will. Absolutely!
The range on my car keeps getting better. Soon, I won't even need to charge it.
👋👋👍👍
And with LFP?
Same thing. Chemistry has nothing to do with BMS calibration
@@StevenPeeters but an LFP gets charged everytime to 100%
@@euro83 not every time, regularly. If you drive it down everytime to below 20% and charge to 100%, then the bms stays calibrated, as I mentioned. Even with 20-90% on NMCA batteries, it stays good. The problem only comes when you charge tiny bits for a long time
@@StevenPeeters tesla says it in the manual, everytime to 100%
@@euro83 that’s new then. Used to be regular, not always
Nice presentation and usefully details Steven, one think please I have not understand is the "deep sleep". How can achieve ?
Just leave the car alone. No sentry mode, no peeping in the app, no 3rd party apps that might ping the car
Sure takes a lot of effort just to 'gain' a few % of battery capacity.
As said, charge 20-90 on a regular basis and you don't have as much of a problem. It's only when you constantly charge small increments
@@StevenPeeters yeah, small increments is my routine. But it doesn't matter. A longer trip now and then forces the battery into its extremes so that's fine.
Anyone out there who really tried this and regained the lost miles?
Very good question. I have not run across anyone who has had success with this and would love to hear from folks who have.
If this works, you don't need to do it. If it doesn't work, you don't need to do it.
Tesla batteries are great. Just drive the car and don't worry about it.
It will out last your ownership of the car.
Having an uncalibrated BMS will potentially mean that you get stranded, because the battery is actually at zero when the BMS indicates 5%. This has happened to people before.
@@StevenPeeters Aim to keep the battery between 20 and 80% for most daily driving . On road trips plan for a 10% or a little more arrival at a SuperCharger. Why push it to the extremes. It only adds to risk of failure and makes the trip more stressful than necessary.
@@KJSvitko because superchargers are still not everywhere. And I prefer skipping one to arrive with lower SoC and thus higher charge rate. 80% is also completely unnecessary. 90% is just fine. Otherwise Tesla would have indicated as such.
My strategy has served me well for minimizing travel time for over 6 years and 150.000 miles in total without a single issue with charging or getting stranded.
But this is not about daily charging to 80% or to 90%. That is besides the point gor this video. It’s about a miscalibration you’re creating over time when constantly charging small increments. And people are complaining about seeing a drop in range that is due to this issue. Just trying to give a fix to regain those lost miles
This procedure doesn't work
Maybe your battery has some degradation. You’ll never regain range bevause of degradation. Many others have done this and have seen a difference. This is also the procedure directly from Tesla. Just because it didn’t change anything on your car, doesn’t mean it doesn’t work
i doubt that this procedure can be healthy for the battery
It is perfectly fine as long as you don't do that frequently. This is actually also the procedure that Tesla uses to measure your battery degradation via an artificial draining of the battery using the A/C or heater. It's a feature in the hidden service menu
Change the electrolyte to hydrogen 😂 lmfao if you think is easy af ask Einstein’s shitty fucking equation #DamnShame