Thanks for the instructions here, very helpful for updating the battery in my Model Y. I did the battery update today (12/11/2021) and I have a couple of comments that might be useful. First, it would be very nice to see more close up camera detail of disconnecting the HV loop connector (passenger side, under the frunk cover). I did manage to get it done, and the words in the video were helpful, but a nice camera shot of the detail of the connector coupled with its removal would've been much appreciated. Secondly, at least on my 2020 Model Y, the actual positive terminal battery connector required an 8mm wrench/socket to remove. So, tools needed are both 10mm (for the battery holddown strap and the negative terminal) and an 8mm (for the positive terminal) wrenches. Third, I think it is much easier to ensure proper placement of the terminal spacers if they are installed while the battery is out and sitting on the floor (rather than sitting in its final location in the frunk). Finally, I think you might also want to show the driver's door window being rolled down prior to proceeding with the battery swap just to emphasize this step. Again, thanks for the video and it was very useful... I actually generated a printed out step by step checklist that I took to the garage to ensure that I didn't miss any steps and that worked well for me.
Excellent video. Ignore everyone complaining about the angle. Im 99.9% sure those people have never changed a battery in their lives. It’s incredibly simple once you get to the area by unscrewing the hold down bolts to loosen the battery from the tray. Then you remove the bolt from the bracket and voila, that is it. It’s using common sense.
Well done. Superbly detailed instructions. Of note, part way through I went to look at my 5 month old Model Y and, sure enough, the orange notification tag was NOT visible from the time of sale. It is now. Agree that it should be there. However, going to your site, I learn (and then confirm) that my 2023 Model Y already has a Li Ion battery. Props to OHMU for all this good info.
Don’t buy ohmmu 12v battery. That costed me $640 to fix the low voltage battery replacement message. Fortunately return window still open and returned the battery but they charged $38(return label) + $90 (restocking fee). My 20 mx working fine with original battery. Here’s what Tesla said Technician inspected vehicle for customer concern. Technician found upon inspection that the low voltage circuit of the 12 volt battery that vehicle has an aftermarket lithium battery that is causing the LV battery repeatedly overcharging. The LV battery has degraded over time and needs replacement with a proper lead acid original equipment battery. Don’t waste your money and time.
Very good instructions! My sister's battery died on her Model Y and wish we had time to buy the OHMMU battery as we needed it fixed asap. But we'll upgrade it anyway in a short time soon.
YEP, we just released that battery, need to shoot an install video! If you have a local one in Arizona we would love to use it to shoot an install video!
I want one but I’m scared from all the issues I’ve seen online where people say the tesla doesn’t charge the battery and it can die and also errors saying battery needs to be replaced , is there a fix now ?
The Rev4+ battery addresses these issues and presents some easier reset methods for them if they come back. It's due to do soft release by end of this month and wide release (for sale again on website) in 2-3 months (this year!)
So, in EV-world CCA is kind of an ignored value b/c it is meaningless (to an extent) in an Electric Vehicle, in fact the 12V battery in the Model Y is fused at 200A, so even if you put a 500CCA battery in it, the fuse is gonna pop before you ever crank 500A out of it (and rightfully so as the car, in normal circumstances, has no means or reason to pull that much current). So, we actually dial our BMS in to consider anything over 200A as "bad", therefore our battery systems will cutoff at 200A even though the cells could handle more.
Its pretty clear the people who make a replacement made the video, some things are slightly over done, like how heavy the battery is. They are good points, but, I don't need the "ugh" when pulling the battery up. I need to put a new one in, might go with a Lithium, might not. My Mini Truck used about the same size battery this has, but I put a lithium in its place. There are for sure upsides (lighter, longer lasting, able to deal with drainage while sitting better).
Your help is highly appreciated My tesla is model Y 2021 but out of region “out of usa” Not Hepa filter one How to disconnect the red connector, the video is amazing , but I am not able to disconnect the red connector for the big battery Please advise
I'm a bit concerned with the assumption that the DC-DC converter has no problems with a different battery technology. You seem very knowledgeable but I'm remembering the Dreamliner grounding due to Lithium batteries, the Samsung phone that was prohibited on airplanes for a while, and the Dell laptops that would spontaneously ignite. Can you kindly reassure me that such a conversion is approved for Tesla? How about by Tesla? I'm aware that they have shifted to Lithium in their newer cars.
If you were trying to install an underglow kit that required 12v, would i get the power straight from the battery? Or would I need some sorta of d/c to d/c converter?
What will happen if the wrench does touch that arc and created a spark? Is it likely that a fuse is blown? Is this an easy fix or will it effect the whole battery of the Tesla? Does warranty cover this fix?
In the Lead or Lithium. In the lead it would blow that fuse if tapped above the fuse but if tapped directly on the terminal it would dead-short until the terminal melted away from the wrench due to immense heat. That wouldn't likely ruin the vehicle and the 12V would not be covered by Tesla in that case. If it were the Lithium from Ohmmu, there would be a brief jolt at the terminal as the wrench touches (milliseconds prior to internal safety tripping) then it would just go dead, the battery would read 0.0V until the wrench is removed and the battery is reawakened by supplying 12.0V constant on the terminals. The battery would be fine and nothing damaging to the car either.
Fused at 200A, so definitely don't exceed that but you can look into connecting directly to the penthouse under rear seat if you really want to pull more than about 50A peak, if it were me I wouldn't exceed 50A directly off the 12V (connected at 12V) but if I connected at the DC/DC output at penthouse under rear seat (install inverter in trunk) then I'd feel comfortable up to around 150A. The penthouse connection will still pull energy from the 12V battery but it will be more quickly sensed and supported by the DC/DC converter which will pump 12V out of the HV pack of the car. If you pull 150A out of the lead acid 12V it will dramatically sag in voltage very quickly, from the lithium it will be better BUT 150A will still sag quite a bit.
@@OhmmuEnergy so in your opinion, don’t exceed 1800watts if you’re connected behind the seat. That’s not bad. I’m hoping the cyber tuck comes with 240V 50amp hook up in the bed… that would be sweet!
2023 Model Y use a 15V "module" that connects totally differently and has data communications with the vehicle, this module is now Lithium from the factory. Ohmmu doesn't offer anything for this to be replaced with actually.
What is the difference in amp hours between the AGM 12v and the Ohmmu replacement? Do we sacrifice any "capacity"? Are there any safeties around drain to ensure the battery isn't brought below voltage?
“If you leave the negative lug attached and you take the positive off and then the positive touches something metal in the car it actually will create a short with the 12v battery.” I see what you’re trying to get at, but think that through a bit (assuming high voltage and dc-dc disabled). If you remove the positive cable and it touches the negative lug/cable/metal nothing will happen, there’s zero voltage.
The potential for having forgotten to disable the High Voltage/DC-DC is why we continue to do it this way and mention this process. For someone who has done it before and knows how this all works, this video is a bit elementary, for someone who has never done this we hope to give them the best chance at being successful by being conservative about these sorts of things.
Currently out of stock pending revision but would otherwise be available on Ohmmu.com and they ship to Australia. Also, Drive EV is located in New Zealand and carries the Ohmmu batteries.
Far less Lithium material in a battery like this than Lead material in 3 equivalent lead acid batteries. Do you know the environmental impact of the lead acid battery manufacturing? The 10lb Lithium battery has less environmental impact than 100lbs of lead acid battery that it offsets.
Thanks for the instructions here, very helpful for updating the battery in my Model Y. I did the battery update today (12/11/2021) and I have a couple of comments that might be useful. First, it would be very nice to see more close up camera detail of disconnecting the HV loop connector (passenger side, under the frunk cover). I did manage to get it done, and the words in the video were helpful, but a nice camera shot of the detail of the connector coupled with its removal would've been much appreciated. Secondly, at least on my 2020 Model Y, the actual positive terminal battery connector required an 8mm wrench/socket to remove. So, tools needed are both 10mm (for the battery holddown strap and the negative terminal) and an 8mm (for the positive terminal) wrenches. Third, I think it is much easier to ensure proper placement of the terminal spacers if they are installed while the battery is out and sitting on the floor (rather than sitting in its final location in the frunk). Finally, I think you might also want to show the driver's door window being rolled down prior to proceeding with the battery swap just to emphasize this step.
Again, thanks for the video and it was very useful... I actually generated a printed out step by step checklist that I took to the garage to ensure that I didn't miss any steps and that worked well for me.
Excellent video. Ignore everyone complaining about the angle. Im 99.9% sure those people have never changed a battery in their lives. It’s incredibly simple once you get to the area by unscrewing the hold down bolts to loosen the battery from the tray. Then you remove the bolt from the bracket and voila, that is it. It’s using common sense.
Well done. Superbly detailed instructions.
Of note, part way through I went to look at my 5 month old Model Y and, sure enough, the orange notification tag was NOT visible from the time of sale. It is now. Agree that it should be there.
However, going to your site, I learn (and then confirm) that my 2023 Model Y already has a Li Ion battery.
Props to OHMU for all this good info.
Don’t buy ohmmu 12v battery. That costed me $640 to fix the low voltage battery replacement message. Fortunately return window still open and returned the battery but they charged $38(return label) + $90 (restocking fee). My 20 mx working fine with original battery. Here’s what Tesla said Technician inspected vehicle for customer concern. Technician found upon
inspection that the low voltage circuit of the 12 volt battery that vehicle has an aftermarket lithium
battery that is causing the LV battery repeatedly overcharging. The LV battery has degraded over
time and needs replacement with a proper lead acid original equipment battery.
Don’t waste your money and time.
Thanks Sean it’s Jason @ Apex Autosports you did a great job with this video it was super helpful just got the battery switched to ohmmu thank you!
I had this video playing and went to watch a different how to video. Installed my battery and came back and this video was still playing.
Thanks, saved me money and time not having Tesla do this. Best!
Very good instructions! My sister's battery died on her Model Y and wish we had time to buy the OHMMU battery as we needed it fixed asap. But we'll upgrade it anyway in a short time soon.
Just subbed. I have peace with your presentation. Ordering soon. Thank you.
Thanks. You made the 12 volt lithium battery swap easy!
Great instruction for Model Y. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Will you be making one for the Ford mustang mach e?
YEP, we just released that battery, need to shoot an install video! If you have a local one in Arizona we would love to use it to shoot an install video!
I want one but I’m scared from all the issues I’ve seen online where people say the tesla doesn’t charge the battery and it can die and also errors saying battery needs to be replaced , is there a fix now ?
The Rev4+ battery addresses these issues and presents some easier reset methods for them if they come back. It's due to do soft release by end of this month and wide release (for sale again on website) in 2-3 months (this year!)
This video came in clutch today. Thank you for the detailed steps!
You really need a better camera angle so we can actually see what you’re disconnecting and reconnecting.
Thanks for sharing. What is the capacity and cca of the lead acid battery?
So, in EV-world CCA is kind of an ignored value b/c it is meaningless (to an extent) in an Electric Vehicle, in fact the 12V battery in the Model Y is fused at 200A, so even if you put a 500CCA battery in it, the fuse is gonna pop before you ever crank 500A out of it (and rightfully so as the car, in normal circumstances, has no means or reason to pull that much current). So, we actually dial our BMS in to consider anything over 200A as "bad", therefore our battery systems will cutoff at 200A even though the cells could handle more.
I just received my Ohmmu battery yesterday for my Model Y. Installed based on the old Model 3 method. hahaha. This method would have been alot easier!
Its pretty clear the people who make a replacement made the video, some things are slightly over done, like how heavy the battery is. They are good points, but, I don't need the "ugh" when pulling the battery up.
I need to put a new one in, might go with a Lithium, might not. My Mini Truck used about the same size battery this has, but I put a lithium in its place. There are for sure upsides (lighter, longer lasting, able to deal with drainage while sitting better).
Extremely helpful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
How about that clip you disconnected first ? Did I missed something ?
Your help is highly appreciated
My tesla is model Y 2021 but out of region “out of usa”
Not Hepa filter one
How to disconnect the red connector, the video is amazing , but I am not able to disconnect the red connector for the big battery
Please advise
Pinch and slide the lock on that connector then squeeze the latch and pull.
Thank you for this! This is extremely helpful.
I'm a bit concerned with the assumption that the DC-DC converter has no problems with a different battery technology. You seem very knowledgeable but I'm remembering the Dreamliner grounding due to Lithium batteries, the Samsung phone that was prohibited on airplanes for a while, and the Dell laptops that would spontaneously ignite. Can you kindly reassure me that such a conversion is approved for Tesla? How about by Tesla? I'm aware that they have shifted to Lithium in their newer cars.
What charges the 12V battery?
DC/DC converter, which gets its poor from the High Voltage pack
If you were trying to install an underglow kit that required 12v, would i get the power straight from the battery? Or would I need some sorta of d/c to d/c converter?
You can get it straight from the battery!
What will happen if the wrench does touch that arc and created a spark? Is it likely that a fuse is blown? Is this an easy fix or will it effect the whole battery of the Tesla? Does warranty cover this fix?
In the Lead or Lithium. In the lead it would blow that fuse if tapped above the fuse but if tapped directly on the terminal it would dead-short until the terminal melted away from the wrench due to immense heat. That wouldn't likely ruin the vehicle and the 12V would not be covered by Tesla in that case. If it were the Lithium from Ohmmu, there would be a brief jolt at the terminal as the wrench touches (milliseconds prior to internal safety tripping) then it would just go dead, the battery would read 0.0V until the wrench is removed and the battery is reawakened by supplying 12.0V constant on the terminals. The battery would be fine and nothing damaging to the car either.
Does anyone know the max Draw load of these 12v batteries? I’m trying to find out the max sized inverter that could be hooked to the car…
Fused at 200A, so definitely don't exceed that but you can look into connecting directly to the penthouse under rear seat if you really want to pull more than about 50A peak, if it were me I wouldn't exceed 50A directly off the 12V (connected at 12V) but if I connected at the DC/DC output at penthouse under rear seat (install inverter in trunk) then I'd feel comfortable up to around 150A. The penthouse connection will still pull energy from the 12V battery but it will be more quickly sensed and supported by the DC/DC converter which will pump 12V out of the HV pack of the car. If you pull 150A out of the lead acid 12V it will dramatically sag in voltage very quickly, from the lithium it will be better BUT 150A will still sag quite a bit.
@@OhmmuEnergy so in your opinion, don’t exceed 1800watts if you’re connected behind the seat. That’s not bad. I’m hoping the cyber tuck comes with 240V 50amp hook up in the bed… that would be sweet!
Need an update for the latest (2023) ModelY, as it looks a bit different when you take off the first cover under the hood.
2023 Model Y use a 15V "module" that connects totally differently and has data communications with the vehicle, this module is now Lithium from the factory. Ohmmu doesn't offer anything for this to be replaced with actually.
What is the difference in amp hours between the AGM 12v and the Ohmmu replacement? Do we sacrifice any "capacity"? Are there any safeties around drain to ensure the battery isn't brought below voltage?
“If you leave the negative lug attached and you take the positive off and then the positive touches something metal in the car it actually will create a short with the 12v battery.”
I see what you’re trying to get at, but think that through a bit (assuming high voltage and dc-dc disabled). If you remove the positive cable and it touches the negative lug/cable/metal nothing will happen, there’s zero voltage.
The potential for having forgotten to disable the High Voltage/DC-DC is why we continue to do it this way and mention this process. For someone who has done it before and knows how this all works, this video is a bit elementary, for someone who has never done this we hope to give them the best chance at being successful by being conservative about these sorts of things.
Why connect the first responder loop before connecting the battery negative?
I am curious about that sequence too
How do I purchase this battery in Australia
Currently out of stock pending revision but would otherwise be available on Ohmmu.com and they ship to Australia. Also, Drive EV is located in New Zealand and carries the Ohmmu batteries.
Every time i visit your website, the battery is out of stock
Ty great video
Did he say "better for the environment "🤔? Do you know the environmental impact of mining for Lithium on a large scale?
Far less Lithium material in a battery like this than Lead material in 3 equivalent lead acid batteries. Do you know the environmental impact of the lead acid battery manufacturing? The 10lb Lithium battery has less environmental impact than 100lbs of lead acid battery that it offsets.
Thank you so much FYI. It’s not very complicated to replace a Tesla Y 12V battery!!
Always disconnect positive first then negative. When connecting its negative first then positive. Any electrician knows this.
A need update a Tesla a software?
No, no change to the software that relates to the battery. We hope for something in the future though.
thanks
Cant see anything
You mean This Is Tyson Fury?
This thing costs 479 but 128 from tesla hmm. Let me make sure tesla is replacing with their lithium one
Tesla will not replace your Lead Acid battery with a Lithium one, ever.
F