You know whats weird? I randomly play LMR videos just for sound. hearing it over and over really expands my knowledge and J Mac has a good voice for videos
It’s amazing how far LMR videos have come. I was taking a look through old install videos and now that I’m watching this. Great job guys. Next up you should show us how to install a roots style blower on a 05-10 mustang
When getting off the fly wheel bolts, I found that using a bolt on the fly wheel and a bolt in the bell housing bolt hole(bell housing is off), and then attaching a carabiner to both is the safest and most effective way to hold the fly wheel in place. You can then use both hands to remove the fly wheel bolts and hold the fly wheel when ready.
Really appreciate this video so much you have no idea, just blew out my 2nd gear in my 02 mustang gt and im a college student with a college budget so buying the parts is almost impossible so having it all installed isnt even in the question! Glad to say I hit subscribe the second this video was finished, I really appreciate it, nice video easy to follow showed everything plain and simple good quality, I'll surely recommend your channel to anyone into older cars like me. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. This is a real ACS Mclaren that belongs to one of our employees - Uncle Ted. I'm sure you will see more of this car somewhere down the road. Be sure to share your favorite tech videos on social media!
you can also pack the pilot bearing with grease and force it out hydraulically by taking the end of the centering tool, taking the handle off and giving it a couple of hits with a rubber mallet. I use an old input shaft now. works just as well.
Nevermind! There's no way I can do this alone! Gotta get a pro! 😥 Thx for showing me that I was about to bite off Waaaay more than I can chew! The charge for this procedure is well warranted now that I see what all is involved! 😦😯 Thx again, y'all! Much Respect 🤘⚜
A tip when putting the transmission back in. I had trouble and it kept trying to undo the throw out bearing. The solution? While trying to align the transmission have someone push the clutch in. This will grab the transmission and slide it in enough to tighten the bolts. Once the bolts are in you can tighten as recommended
Thank you for the video. It’s very very helpful to have. One of a kind. It can make people who have been working on their mustangs actually be able to keep track of every bolt needed as we all know they can get lost over time.
Jesus this guy just wants you to spend hella money and replace everything, if your adjustable cable feels weird then replace it..... Hell no just adjust it
The guy is smart it blows my mind how many people just want to replace the bare minimum all the time and wonder why their car is unreliable every vehicle I own has 100k to 500k and although I do work from time to time on them all I've never ever been stranded because I do just like this guy when I do a job I do it right all those parts he mentioned are wear items and if they lasted 30 years then your very blessed but really an extra couple hundred bucks is much cheaper than pulling the transmission again just to replace a failed clutch for or 6 dollar pilot bearing.. Just do it right and you will never kill your Ford
watched this many times, thanks....installed everything new, pivot, fltwheel, clutch pack, transmission. ..the fork is bottoming out on the bellhousing, thoughts?
I have a 87 mustang gt 5.0 and need help on taking apart the transmission.I need to change the Countershaft gear First speed gear Sicerenizers and bearings. Think you guys could post a video?
Yes, on many of the SN95 models you will have to take the transmission and bellhousing in one piece. There are some minor differences across all transmissions you will remove; however, the clutch installation itself is the same across all models.
Just got my clutch replace and there's now a weird vibration in the car at idle. The clutch pedal also feels rough/gritty when depressing it. The car idle and pedal was butter smooth before install. What could be the issue?
Could be because the new clutch has more material on it than before. As in if your clutch cable was in the same position as it was before the installation, your new clutch may be partially engaging. Did you try adjusting the cable?
I'm replacing the flywheel and clutch and it got it all back together, but when I go to put my transmission back on, it won't go all the way into the bearing. Please help.
Just got all that installed but I paid a shop. Snaps could have done it myself. And I see there was no need to drain the transmission either. O well. I have to redo my rear drum brakes but I will attempt to tackle that one myself.
I have a 2001 GT Mustang 4.6 I wonder what it's the size of my clutch disc I look in the internet and I found different sizes 10" 10.5" 11" and I don't know what size it's better for my GT
Is the driveshaft orientation that important? I realized that I never marked the driveshaft before removing it and its way too late now because its sitting in my garage...
Can somebody tell me how hard this is to do (or differences) on the 2008 v8 mustang, since it has a hydraulic clutch? I have rebuilt clutches on motorcycles, never on a car with a hydraulic clutch.
Great video, guys. I'm halfway through doing the clutch on my '89 LX 5.0 and this is what gave me the confidence to attempt it. I'm a little stumped over the pilot bearing, though. I found the slide hammer too you used, and it did what it was supposed to do when it comes to removing the center part of the bearing. However, there is very little for it to grab onto and I can't get the rest of the bearing out. Any ideas?
Loving these how-to videos, watching every one I can even if I don't have that particular year model. Please keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. I'm learning a lot (and getting the confidence to tackle bigger jobs on my GT). Thanks!
What you need to know he does not tell you! He has good information but does not tell you what you could overlook and cause you to blow your transmission. 1. Each crankshaft has a hole in rear for the pilot. Each crank has it own diameter bore which has a tolerance for the pilot bearing. The outside diameter has to be slightly larger by a few thousandths to fit tight. The inside diameter of the pilot bearing being too wide or too much in diameter will let the main shaft in the transmission wobble up and down if it does not fit tight to the mainshaft of the transmission given about ..003 at the max. Example: Dorman bearing: I.D. .680, MR52 and most of the Mustangs carry the .699 mainshaft. If you install the .680 onto that .699 shaft you will get out of balance due to a clutch disc rocking when you clutch it at any r.p.m. which will cause the shaft to wear on both ends and ruin the pilot also. Many companies will not give you the inside diameter or lie to you and you will install the wrong one. Check with Ford on the spec of your crankshaft and see for yourself. Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto conflicts on their applications selling different bearing specs. for the same engine, especially the 1989 Ford 5.0. The pilot hole outside diameter in my 1989 Ford 5.0 is 1.3689 and Dorman 14677 has their outside diameter at 1.378 which will be .0091 given me about 9 over, 4.5 on each side which will fit ok. But, the inside is too big at .680 on the Dorman 14677 and the Dorman 690-083-1 is alluded to be .0672 which is right to fit the .699 but Dorman sells it under part number 14677 which on the back of that pack it clearly states it is .680 causing the main shaft to wobble like hell and screw up trannys. Now, people, You have a better education on tolerances vs. what these companies sell. I just got one in from Pioneer which the box states that it was made for my 89 5.0, but when i checked the inside diameter it was .695 ---.669 to .695 is enough to screw up my 2000 dollar trans fix. O'reilly did not know the difference, but only sells the part, auto zone claimed they were the same but when i could show them the spec in front of their face all they could say was duh , i don't know. Advance said the same, and is selling a bearing that is 1.45 inch diameter for the bearing that goes into a 1.369 crank. Can you imagine beating that into the end of your crank? That bearing is National® - Clutch Pilot Bearing Part Number: FC65662 Line: BCA 1 year limited warranty UPC: 724956003792 Needle Bearing Detailed Description A full line of premium oil seals and bearings Premium bearing design matches OEM specifications Precision manufactured using premium steel grades for outstanding durability and performance Available in both caged design and full complement
Additional Details Bore (In): 0.6733 Inch Bore (mm): 17.102mm Outside Diameter (In): 1.450 Inch Outside Diameter (mm): 36.83mm Width (In): 0.670 Inch Width (mm): 17.018mm I give up. Ford motor company technicians do not or cannot tell you the exact factory diameter of their end crank bore for the 5.0 neither have i seen it anywhere on any forum or site to explain it like i have. So, go blow your trans, disc, bearings, gearns and don't forget the pilot!
Thanks for the feedback. Depending on the clutch manufacturer, break-in periods can differ. Most manufacturers state responsible driving for a couple hundred miles for proper break-in. -Landan
FYI original transmission was probably from a v6 car had a much smaller pilot bearing on the end of the input shaft, are the Bell housings for a v6 nd v8 the same ??
Great video! Love seeing some of these stock(ish) rebuilds. Also on an era of car you haven't had in the shop before. You should do this one back mostly stock with interior/exterior pieces and do videos like the red car and put the videos up...if it is yours to wrench on! :D
I have a 1977 fastback and the clutch has been changed and flywheel resurfaced but the pedal is extremely hard to press !! any thoughts or help would be very appreciated
Here is our offering for 79-93 Fox Mustangs: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Bell-Housing-And-Spacer-Plate Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks! -Landan
Have an 87 LX with pivot ball stud issues and I've seen this video so many times... It almost looks too easy... Got me gathering all parts as ill be replacing the stud,fork,clutch kit,cable and will be adding a firewall adjuster. Can i use the asjuster with an non adjustable cable? Anything else i might be forgetting? Thanks in advance and thanks for the great walkthrough. And sorry for the noob questions. Subscribed!
Dumb question for you guys: Is it possible to replace the throw out bearing without dropping the gearbox? Mine started rattling recently, and I'd love to avoid trying to go through the whole process if I can avoid it. Many thanks!
What assembly grease are you using on the pivot stud, TO bearing, input shaft, sleeve etc.? Do you put a dub in the pilot bearing?(new one came w/ some on it)
We recommend using any sort of transmission grease when installing any transmission components. You can pick some up at your local auto parts store. Adding some additional grease to your pilot bearing will work as well. Just a small amount will work
I have a t5 out of an 84 mustang going into my 91 now I've already bought the flywheel and clutch kit what else should I get to know everything will fit right?
Wait really I've been wondering what i needed to upgrade to a 10.5 couch and they're easier to find I'm already switching my test end to an 88 w/3.27s so many sites kept saying i needed to change the flywheel that's crazy
I just got stranded today with my stang, I was trying to get on it a little on the highway before I got home and now i have no clutch action anymore. Every gear is like neutral lol :( Gonna have to tear into it this week and see what went wrong. Sigh
Is there any trick for removing the plastic alignment shaft and sliding in the input shaft to keep everything lined up right? You kind of skipped over what I thought would be the critical part. Everybody keeps telling me "the alignment is the hard part" my dad (who likes to make up mechanical facts) was going on about the alignment too, but I only see one possible way it could be aligned. To be fair, he probably never changed a clutch before tho and I feel like most "car people" just regurgitate what they hear online and they actually don't know LOL I did have to rotate the clutch housing to get it to line up with the dowel pin and bolt holes, but a kindergartener should have that level of matching skills lol. My new transmission jack should be here next week (just in time for more snow) so I guess I'll have to wait a little longer to see what everybody means.
when pulling the transmission off the bell housing, i was only able to get it about 3/4" apart, then it got stuck. it looks like the throwout bearing is messed up pretty bad, and it seems stuck on the transmission shaft (every time i move the transmission, the clutch fork moves as well). do you have any tips to remedy this and get the transmission out? thanks
Wow, I have to say You guys have done so many videos and have shown many people different or even just ways to complete certain jobs , and as much as I do appreciate helping people I sure have to say , Id think you'd like to be way more professional in the fact of cleanliness . I mean Damn dude my grandfather taught me at a very young age not to half ass a job and I sure have to say thats a lot of confidence you have just shoving a transmission that looks like its a demolition derby runner up car at the most ! Take your time next time and clean that crap , for either you or the next poor guy that gets under there to replace it again in 500 miles !
Okay so I have an 04 mustang v6 3.9 can I split the transmission from the bellhousing like you did in the video end of the rear main seal still come out that easy like in the video I was told you have to drop the oil pan I had mine done with xtd stage one I watch the guy do it most of it but now that everything was installed the pressure plate clutch plate pilot bearing throwout bearing I now have a bad vibration oh did I mention you left out the spacer plat
@@latemodelrestoration thank u iI appreciate that I was given the wrong information from a so-called mechanicI put an xtd clutch in my mustang and now she's got a bad bad vibration I don't know what the cause is the company sent me a new pressure plate throw out bearing and pilot bearing so I'm going to try to replace that and the bonehead left out the freaking spacer plate I'm sure that has a lot to do with the vibration
I have an 87 5.0 302 ho. I bought a fly wheel with a 50 Oz damping weight welded on it. Where should that 50 Oz weight be when the motor is at top dead center. I hear if the rotating assembly is not balanced it is bad for the engine.
after installing a new clutch set in my 99 mustang and got everything back together, the car isn't wanting to run right. could this be do to timing in the motor,
hey fantastic work and great video. I may do this in the future. Question! Can you guys do a video on how to remove and install a new transmission tailshaft bushing?!? I am very afraid of this. I replaced my rear seal on the tailshaft, but found out that I am exceeding the OEM limits on driveshaft movement (up/down wiggle). I looked at the yoke and realized that it was pretty worn down also...(smoothly though no scoring). How am I looking you think?? Thanks guys! 1989 5.0 GT with T5
i got a 02 mustang v6 manual and when im going like 80 and try to shift to 5th gear it grinds and wont go into gear ,.only when im in 60 mph , what you guys think its the issue?
The synchronizer for your 5th gear is most likely worn out but first change transmission fluid to see if that was the problem. :) My reverse gear is like that...
I have a Ford Mustang 1991 5.0 and the transmission has 4 gears but it's not giving me the 3rd and the 4th The car sounds like once it does 1s gear 2nd gear the car suddenly sounds like if it went nuteral and it doesn't go anymore faster because it sounds like if it had no 3rd gear or 4 gear I Changed my speed sensor and nothing..." It's an automatic transmission
So a while back we did a clutch job in my garage we replaced the fly wheel and pressure plate and clutch and crossmember. But ever since then my car has had a horrible vibration anyone know why its only at like 70 and its not rpm dependent its only speed dependent
Pretty basic question but what exact tools did you use in the video? looked like a select few but just curious on what exact tools i would need to pull the transmission out. Thanks! of course i'm changing the clutch on the T45 transmission in a 96 Mustang, not sure if it would matter.
A quick run down of tools would be: Jack Jack Stands Socket Set Wrench Set Plier Set Several Extensions Wobble Socket Set Torque Wrench Air Compressor (Optional) Impact Gun (Optional) Slide Hammer (Optional if replacing pilot bearing) Brake Clean Shop Towels
check out our 5 lug swap video to get some pointers on removing your rear drums. Sorry we didn't get this soon :) try using discount code "YOUNOV10" to get $10 off your next $150 purchase!!!!
Just watched this 18 times to replace my throw out bearing. Thanks again for the videos guys. So helpful.
Glad we could help!!
was it hard?
You know whats weird? I randomly play LMR videos just for sound. hearing it over and over really expands my knowledge and J Mac has a good voice for videos
Take a look at your sandwich, if it’s been awhile since you made it. Better go ahead and replace it
Lol that was rich
Man that comments really got me rolling lol
It’s amazing how far LMR videos have come. I was taking a look through old install videos and now that I’m watching this. Great job guys. Next up you should show us how to install a roots style blower on a 05-10 mustang
Thank you for the kind words, please let us know if you ever need anything!
ive no idea about cars or clutches, but this is just great to watch anyway
Thank you for the kind words!!!
and don't forget to reconnect your battery!
😂😂
When getting off the fly wheel bolts, I found that using a bolt on the fly wheel and a bolt in the bell housing bolt hole(bell housing is off), and then attaching a carabiner to both is the safest and most effective way to hold the fly wheel in place. You can then use both hands to remove the fly wheel bolts and hold the fly wheel when ready.
That's a lot of work. Mechanics got it tough.
These videos have literally saved my ass over and over again !! Thanks again !!
Haven't done a Mustang clutch in a while and I forgot how easy they are to replace. Thanks for the video, needed this to refresh my memory.
Really appreciate this video so much you have no idea, just blew out my 2nd gear in my 02 mustang gt and im a college student with a college budget so buying the parts is almost impossible so having it all installed isnt even in the question! Glad to say I hit subscribe the second this video was finished, I really appreciate it, nice video easy to follow showed everything plain and simple good quality, I'll surely recommend your channel to anyone into older cars like me. Thanks!
Ace E. Thank you that means so much!!
Late Model Restoration how do you remove a stock clutch cable ??
This is a fantastic video. LMR. You are a gem to our community thank you, so much!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the feedback.
Clear, concise, well scripted and edited. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the feedback. This is a real ACS Mclaren that belongs to one of our employees - Uncle Ted. I'm sure you will see more of this car somewhere down the road. Be sure to share your favorite tech videos on social media!
you can also pack the pilot bearing with grease and force it out hydraulically by taking the end of the centering tool, taking the handle off and giving it a couple of hits with a rubber mallet. I use an old input shaft now. works just as well.
We will! Thanks for watching!
Nevermind! There's no way I can do this alone! Gotta get a pro! 😥 Thx for showing me that I was about to bite off Waaaay more than I can chew! The charge for this procedure is well warranted now that I see what all is involved! 😦😯 Thx again, y'all! Much Respect 🤘⚜
PoyZun Iv man that’s soft... just pay ur way??? Y not just take pride in ur ride and learn to b ur own mechanic?
A tip when putting the transmission back in. I had trouble and it kept trying to undo the throw out bearing. The solution? While trying to align the transmission have someone push the clutch in. This will grab the transmission and slide it in enough to tighten the bolts. Once the bolts are in you can tighten as recommended
This video just inspired me to become a Mechanical Engineer. TTU here I come.
Thank you for the video. It’s very very helpful to have. One of a kind. It can make people who have been working on their mustangs actually be able to keep track of every bolt needed as we all know they can get lost over time.
Hello
It is our pleasure to help our Mustang Community.
Sweet Jesus,just did this to my '93 F150 and wish it was as easy as they say
Thanks!!! We just hope our videos help!
Thanks! Hope you guys find it helpful.
Jesus this guy just wants you to spend hella money and replace everything, if your adjustable cable feels weird then replace it..... Hell no just adjust it
Pretty sure he means if it feels like its binding, if it feels like it's not sliding through the sleeve smoothly.
2001 here... I here ya'...
I mean if you want to go back and redo it that's up to you...
The guy is smart it blows my mind how many people just want to replace the bare minimum all the time and wonder why their car is unreliable every vehicle I own has 100k to 500k and although I do work from time to time on them all I've never ever been stranded because I do just like this guy when I do a job I do it right all those parts he mentioned are wear items and if they lasted 30 years then your very blessed but really an extra couple hundred bucks is much cheaper than pulling the transmission again just to replace a failed clutch for or 6 dollar pilot bearing.. Just do it right and you will never kill your Ford
Eh just replace it, that crap ain't worth getting stranded over. The headache/towing/ STILL having to replacing it just aint worth it.
Damn that’s easier than I’m used to, just passed up on a nice 86 5.0 that needed this work done.
what kind of grease was used?
How high will I need to raise my SN95 so I can slide the trans out?
watched this many times, thanks....installed everything new, pivot, fltwheel, clutch pack, transmission. ..the fork is bottoming out on the bellhousing, thoughts?
I have a 87 mustang gt 5.0 and need help on taking apart the transmission.I need to change the
Countershaft gear
First speed gear
Sicerenizers and bearings.
Think you guys could post a video?
Thanks!! You guys should do a video on the rear drums to disc brake kits. Seems like a lot.
Don't forget the T-45 crowd. That bell housing does not separate from the gearbox.
Yes, on many of the SN95 models you will have to take the transmission and bellhousing in one piece. There are some minor differences across all transmissions you will remove; however, the clutch installation itself is the same across all models.
Just got my clutch replace and there's now a weird vibration in the car at idle. The clutch pedal also feels rough/gritty when depressing it. The car idle and pedal was butter smooth before install. What could be the issue?
Could be because the new clutch has more material on it than before. As in if your clutch cable was in the same position as it was before the installation, your new clutch may be partially engaging. Did you try adjusting the cable?
I'm replacing the flywheel and clutch and it got it all back together, but when I go to put my transmission back on, it won't go all the way into the bearing. Please help.
Thanks for the video! It was very informative. Do you where to get a flywheel cover for a 89 2.3 mustang? Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback. You may have to try eBay or make a post in a FB group of what you're looking for. -Landan
Thanks for the suggestions!!
Just got all that installed but I paid a shop. Snaps could have done it myself. And I see there was no need to drain the transmission either. O well. I have to redo my rear drum brakes but I will attempt to tackle that one myself.
I have a 2001 GT Mustang 4.6 I wonder what it's the size of my clutch disc I look in the internet and I found different sizes 10" 10.5" 11" and I don't know what size it's better for my GT
Is the driveshaft orientation that important? I realized that I never marked the driveshaft before removing it and its way too late now because its sitting in my garage...
It will only go in right, or off by 180° when you put it back together, if it isn't just right, it'll feel way off
So what about the T45/TR3650 guys? No removable bellhousing. At best this a 79-95 video
V6 mustang's after 95 still have a t5, so no it's not.
Can somebody tell me how hard this is to do (or differences) on the 2008 v8 mustang, since it has a hydraulic clutch? I have rebuilt clutches on motorcycles, never on a car with a hydraulic clutch.
Love this video just makes you want to do it as soon as the video ends thanks for the video bro keep it up
Great video, guys. I'm halfway through doing the clutch on my '89 LX 5.0 and this is what gave me the confidence to attempt it. I'm a little stumped over the pilot bearing, though. I found the slide hammer too you used, and it did what it was supposed to do when it comes to removing the center part of the bearing. However, there is very little for it to grab onto and I can't get the rest of the bearing out. Any ideas?
There is 2 small cut out grooves on the back of the pilot bearing for the fingers of the hammer tool end to go in🙏😇💪😎👍
Loving these how-to videos, watching every one I can even if I don't have that particular year model. Please keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. I'm learning a lot (and getting the confidence to tackle bigger jobs on my GT). Thanks!
speedycpu Thanks for a comments. We will have plenty more videos in the future.
What you need to know he does not tell you! He has good information but does not tell you what you could overlook and cause you to blow your transmission. 1. Each crankshaft has a hole in rear for the pilot. Each crank has it own diameter bore which has a tolerance for the pilot bearing. The outside diameter has to be slightly larger by a few thousandths to fit tight. The inside diameter of the pilot bearing being too wide or too much in diameter will let the main shaft in the transmission wobble up and down if it does not fit tight to the mainshaft of the transmission given about ..003 at the max. Example: Dorman bearing: I.D. .680, MR52 and most of the Mustangs carry the .699 mainshaft. If you install the .680 onto that .699 shaft you will get out of balance due to a clutch disc rocking when you clutch it at any r.p.m. which will cause the shaft to wear on both ends and ruin the pilot also. Many companies will not give you the inside diameter or lie to you and you will install the wrong one. Check with Ford on the spec of your crankshaft and see for yourself. Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto conflicts on their applications selling different bearing specs. for the same engine, especially the 1989 Ford 5.0. The pilot hole outside diameter in my 1989 Ford 5.0 is 1.3689 and Dorman 14677 has their outside diameter at 1.378 which will be .0091 given me about 9 over, 4.5 on each side which will fit ok. But, the inside is too big at .680 on the Dorman 14677 and the Dorman 690-083-1 is alluded to be .0672 which is right to fit the .699 but Dorman sells it under part number 14677 which on the back of that pack it clearly states it is .680 causing the main shaft to wobble like hell and screw up trannys. Now, people, You have a better education on tolerances vs. what these companies sell. I just got one in from Pioneer which the box states that it was made for my 89 5.0, but when i checked the inside diameter it was .695 ---.669 to .695 is enough to screw up my 2000 dollar trans fix. O'reilly did not know the difference, but only sells the part, auto zone claimed they were the same but when i could show them the spec in front of their face all they could say was duh , i don't know. Advance said the same, and is selling a bearing that is 1.45 inch diameter for the bearing that goes into a 1.369 crank. Can you imagine beating that into the end of your crank? That bearing is National® - Clutch Pilot Bearing
Part Number: FC65662
Line: BCA
1 year limited warranty
UPC: 724956003792
Needle Bearing
Detailed Description
A full line of premium oil seals and bearings Premium bearing design matches OEM specifications Precision manufactured using premium steel grades for outstanding durability and performance Available in both caged design and full complement
Additional Details
Bore (In): 0.6733 Inch
Bore (mm): 17.102mm
Outside Diameter (In): 1.450 Inch
Outside Diameter (mm): 36.83mm
Width (In): 0.670 Inch
Width (mm): 17.018mm
I give up. Ford motor company technicians do not or cannot tell you the exact factory diameter of their end crank bore for the 5.0 neither have i seen it anywhere on any forum or site to explain it like i have. So, go blow your trans, disc, bearings, gearns and don't forget the pilot!
Your on late model restorations video.
Go to their website and get a ford performance pilot bearing. Boom. Done.
BTW I imagine this is obvious. But when replacing the rear main seal I assume that you need to drain the oil?
This was a great video! What is the recommended break in period?
Thanks for the feedback. Depending on the clutch manufacturer, break-in periods can differ. Most manufacturers state responsible driving for a couple hundred miles for proper break-in. -Landan
FYI original transmission was probably from a v6 car had a much smaller pilot bearing on the end of the input shaft, are the Bell housings for a v6 nd v8 the same ??
I’m trying to remove my stock clutch cable but it won’t get loose off the fork. How do I get it loose?
Great video! Love seeing some of these stock(ish) rebuilds. Also on an era of car you haven't had in the shop before. You should do this one back mostly stock with interior/exterior pieces and do videos like the red car and put the videos up...if it is yours to wrench on! :D
Replacing t5. Do I need or should I replace clutch. It was already done when bought car and feels fine.
That's completely up to you. If the disc looks good and everything else doesn't appear to have premature or excessive wear, I'd run it. -Landan
Well.... possible pan gasket and rear main forsure. Let's pull engine instead of laying under car and pulling transmission. Hoist would be nice
Did you support the engine with an engine support bar, or is it not necessary?
Supporting the engine isn't necessary when replacing the clutch. -Landan
I have a 1977 fastback and the clutch has been changed and flywheel resurfaced but the pedal is extremely hard to press !! any thoughts or help would be very appreciated
I'm assuming it's cable driven? If so, inspect the cable and verify that it isn't binding within the sheath. -Landan
Do you guys carry spacer plates? Having a hard time finding one.
Here is our offering for 79-93 Fox Mustangs: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Bell-Housing-And-Spacer-Plate
Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks! -Landan
Have an 87 LX with pivot ball stud issues and I've seen this video so many times... It almost looks too easy... Got me gathering all parts as ill be replacing the stud,fork,clutch kit,cable and will be adding a firewall adjuster. Can i use the asjuster with an non adjustable cable? Anything else i might be forgetting? Thanks in advance and thanks for the great walkthrough. And sorry for the noob questions. Subscribed!
Dumb question for you guys: Is it possible to replace the throw out bearing without dropping the gearbox? Mine started rattling recently, and I'd love to avoid trying to go through the whole process if I can avoid it. Many thanks!
I noticed you pulled the transmission from the bell housing instead of leaving them together. Why did you do it this way?
Paul Fancett
it seems easier and a lot less weight to remove them separately,
It’s way easier to get to the top bolts on the bell housing
these guys are awesome..
Now if I only had the money to get what I need for my foxbody.. lol
I noticed that there is no return spring on the clutch fork. Is there supposed to be one there?
What assembly grease are you using on the pivot stud, TO bearing, input shaft, sleeve etc.? Do you put a dub in the pilot bearing?(new one came w/ some on it)
We recommend using any sort of transmission grease when installing any transmission components. You can pick some up at your local auto parts store. Adding some additional grease to your pilot bearing will work as well. Just a small amount will work
Awesome, I really appreciate it, thank you
Should the pressure plate cover touch flywheel when tight or would that be over tightening?
I have a t5 out of an 84 mustang going into my 91 now I've already bought the flywheel and clutch kit what else should I get to know everything will fit right?
So your telling me that a 84 Windsor engine has the same measurement flywheel and clutch a 10 inch correct ?
Wait really I've been wondering what i needed to upgrade to a 10.5 couch and they're easier to find I'm already switching my test end to an 88 w/3.27s so many sites kept saying i needed to change the flywheel that's crazy
We're glad the video was helpful for you. -Landan
I just got stranded today with my stang, I was trying to get on it a little on the highway before I got home and now i have no clutch action anymore. Every gear is like neutral lol :(
Gonna have to tear into it this week and see what went wrong. Sigh
Would I follow the same steps if i were installing a new transmission along with a new clutch?
What socket did you use for the flywheel
Should do the $2459.99 priced SVE 5-lug conversion kit video.
Is there any trick for removing the plastic alignment shaft and sliding in the input shaft to keep everything lined up right? You kind of skipped over what I thought would be the critical part. Everybody keeps telling me "the alignment is the hard part" my dad (who likes to make up mechanical facts) was going on about the alignment too, but I only see one possible way it could be aligned. To be fair, he probably never changed a clutch before tho and I feel like most "car people" just regurgitate what they hear online and they actually don't know LOL I did have to rotate the clutch housing to get it to line up with the dowel pin and bolt holes, but a kindergartener should have that level of matching skills lol. My new transmission jack should be here next week (just in time for more snow) so I guess I'll have to wait a little longer to see what everybody means.
when pulling the transmission off the bell housing, i was only able to get it about 3/4" apart, then it got stuck. it looks like the throwout bearing is messed up pretty bad, and it seems stuck on the transmission shaft (every time i move the transmission, the clutch fork moves as well). do you have any tips to remedy this and get the transmission out? thanks
+Kyle Cook take off the bell housing from the motor without removing the transmission first.
Very nice video. Thank you for the education.
Love these videos!
I wasn't able to use my 85 flywheel with a 86 and up clutch. The bolt pattern wasn't the same. So I picked up a new flywheel.
Yes it is. The same steps apply. Give us a call if you have any questions. 1-866-507-8871
Wow, I have to say You guys have done so many videos and have shown many people different or even just ways to complete certain jobs , and as much as I do appreciate helping people I sure have to say , Id think you'd like to be way more professional in the fact of cleanliness . I mean Damn dude my grandfather taught me at a very young age not to half ass a job and I sure have to say thats a lot of confidence you have just shoving a transmission that looks like its a demolition derby runner up car at the most ! Take your time next time and clean that crap , for either you or the next poor guy that gets under there to replace it again in 500 miles !
Okay so I have an 04 mustang v6 3.9 can I split the transmission from the bellhousing like you did in the video end of the rear main seal still come out that easy like in the video I was told you have to drop the oil pan I had mine done with xtd stage one I watch the guy do it most of it but now that everything was installed the pressure plate clutch plate pilot bearing throwout bearing I now have a bad vibration oh did I mention you left out the spacer plat
According to the service procedure for the 3.9L, it does not show you have to drop the pan.
@@latemodelrestoration thank u iI appreciate that I was given the wrong information from a so-called mechanicI put an xtd clutch in my mustang and now she's got a bad bad vibration I don't know what the cause is the company sent me a new pressure plate throw out bearing and pilot bearing so I'm going to try to replace that and the bonehead left out the freaking spacer plate I'm sure that has a lot to do with the vibration
I just bought a clutch from you guys but my throw out bearing is hitting the pressure plate and not letting the fork move.... what did I do wrong
Jesus, the throwout bearing is supposed to make contact with the pressure plate. Double check the orientation of the throwout bearing. -Landan
Late Model Restoration ok thanks for the info
What lube for rear seal. Just oil outside?
I've always used fresh engine oil. Yes, just the outside is fine. Some folks also lubricate the inside. It all depends on the person. -Landan
This was the video u guys needed,great vid. Wow ACS Mclaren.
Just wished lmr ship to the uk..
I have an 87 5.0 302 ho. I bought a fly wheel with a 50 Oz damping weight welded on it. Where should that 50 Oz weight be when the motor is at top dead center. I hear if the rotating assembly is not balanced it is bad for the engine.
Would I still be able to remove the transmission and the bell housing even if I have long tube headers still connected?
Hahaha, long tubes are a pain in the ass.
What kinda clutch cable was he talking about? The aluminum adjustable one? He called it someone else...????
You're probably thinking of either the aluminum quadrant that attaches to the clutch pedal assembly under the dash or the firewall adjuster. -Landan
after installing a new clutch set in my 99 mustang and got everything back together, the car isn't wanting to run right. could this be do to timing in the motor,
This could be from several issues. Was the car running right prior to changing the clutch? -Landan
+Late Model Restoration i guess we will never know
hey fantastic work and great video. I may do this in the future. Question! Can you guys do a video on how to remove and install a new transmission tailshaft bushing?!? I am very afraid of this. I replaced my rear seal on the tailshaft, but found out that I am exceeding the OEM limits on driveshaft movement (up/down wiggle). I looked at the yoke and realized that it was pretty worn down also...(smoothly though no scoring). How am I looking you think?? Thanks guys! 1989 5.0 GT with T5
Great video. Question, is the same for the sn95 v6 mustang?
i got a 02 mustang v6 manual and when im going like 80 and try to shift to 5th gear it grinds and wont go into gear ,.only when im in 60 mph , what you guys think its the issue?
The synchronizer for your 5th gear is most likely worn out but first change transmission fluid to see if that was the problem. :) My reverse gear is like that...
where did JMAC go? :/
where to get a transmission tail shaft seal?
I have a Ford Mustang 1991 5.0 and the transmission has 4 gears but it's not giving me the 3rd and the 4th The car sounds like once it does 1s gear 2nd gear the car suddenly sounds like if it went nuteral and it doesn't go anymore faster because it sounds like if it had no 3rd gear or 4 gear I Changed my speed sensor and nothing..." It's an automatic transmission
Rudy Hernandez clutch packs could be burnt, a shift solenoid or you shift cable could be your problem..
So a while back we did a clutch job in my garage we replaced the fly wheel and pressure plate and clutch and crossmember. But ever since then my car has had a horrible vibration anyone know why its only at like 70 and its not rpm dependent its only speed dependent
Check the drive shaft.
Hey, what did you use to plug the back of the transmission?
lmr.com/item/LRS-TX23400/transmission-tailshaft-plug-kit-23400
Pretty basic question but what exact tools did you use in the video? looked like a select few but just curious on what exact tools i would need to pull the transmission out. Thanks! of course i'm changing the clutch on the T45 transmission in a 96 Mustang, not sure if it would matter.
A quick run down of tools would be:
Jack
Jack Stands
Socket Set
Wrench Set
Plier Set
Several Extensions
Wobble Socket Set
Torque Wrench
Air Compressor (Optional)
Impact Gun (Optional)
Slide Hammer (Optional if replacing pilot bearing)
Brake Clean
Shop Towels
Is there not a need to grease the cable?
No, you don't need to grease the cable. It'll be fine without any.
Factory calls for Dex/Merc ATF in T5 World Class transmissions, which a stock '92 fox will have.
sabes el numero del reten de sigueñal mustang 95 8v
How tight should the cable be?
Is it necessary to drain the tyranny fluid?
No, but this will make the trans lighter when you remove and replace this one.
check out our 5 lug swap video to get some pointers on removing your rear drums. Sorry we didn't get this soon :) try using discount code "YOUNOV10" to get $10 off your next $150 purchase!!!!
You guys are the best keep it up!