So, you should know, both of these shocks have springs, one is just internal. Furthermore you really never want to give up droop. I do have some limited experience with these trucks on real life, being I worked for a few fellas that drive the Rockstar energy drink trucks and I've raced with em;) These trucks are built in real life to sit as low as possible while providing as much travel as possible. This is achieved by what we call droop, it's suspension travel that only comes into play when the truck leaves the ground and the suspension is allowed to unload in the air. This is when its needed, landing a big jump! Otherwise most that travel never gets used on the track. In rock crawling we do similar things for the same reasons but rather than landing jumps, we're looking for that axle to allow the suspension to droop and reach way down to put a tire on the ground to provide traction. I suggest using the stock positions unless you understand how shock oil, compression dampening, rebound dampening and ride height work in conjunction with each other. We can't control much in these shocks other than oil viscosity and spring rate so, if you wish to bash, go to thicker oil and a stiffer spring, only with few exceptions should you ever move shock mounting positions. Traxxas did a lot of testing that unless you have a suspension dyno or a lot of time and good understanding.... You can't compete with. Don't reinvent the wheel fellas. Good luck.
My experience with these MFR arms has been nothing short of amazing. It's the one upgrade (do both sets, top and bottom) that made the most difference in terms of ending up on the workbench, and adding strength to an otherwise fraggle set of trailing arms. Been using them since May of 2019 and they are still on the truck, working great, as of this post.
That the Rods bend is a good thing believe me. It absorbs the force of an impact and makes sure nothing else is broken permanantly. Real cars have that to
Steve Declark yes I checked out the site.. it’s $70 for lower link pair. They sell some other goodies too even trx4 parts..I saw the ones on eBay when udr first came out.. the ones I saw on eBay were from China.. not knocking them but didn’t know enough about the metal quality used and new to the market..
great video great coverage .just a suggestion put rubber bands on the rear fenders .do not use screws just stick the band thought the hole and rear bumper.after the second body i learned the hard way.just use the top body screws. it works great . THANK YOU Bill
Man all 4 links lookes very bad. its a bit weak from traxxas to put something like this into a truck like this! But now it schuold be much stronger💪👌. Great job.
Secure your body king ! It looks like a slash when it lands now! Rods won't break yes but the shock now transfers to the chassis links I just hope it can take it !
Derek E no sir they are the same length. I did add 3 washers under the rod ends which got the pinion up and has really reduced driveshaft angle and temps.
Now that you’ve had some time to drive it I’ll bet it’s sweet with all that extra weight down low in the back I’d like to see a cool video of it please
@@ExocagedRC knock on would huh lol I'm going to get some lowers the uppers I'll keep stock for now anyways I just want to be able to adjust rebound on the rear
Of course it’s not meant to jump like that, but the video would be boring if I were driving to scale. And for getting really crazy yeah I have several big trucks and my favorite by far is the Xmaxx.
Could you just replace the top links? It seems that the bending you’re getting that’s destroying your lower links is coming from the top links bending (since they are what keep the rear end straight)... I would do the full set, but I was just curious...
Look at the damaged parts on your body! So when new come reinforce it with e6000 craft glue and dry wall tape! . The skirting between the two wheels !the two screws is the weakest part on the truck every were else is thick lexan !! ( Shatter proof plastic ruler , that kids/ children use!, Drimmeled in to snap , o r what ever can make the area thicker :)
I should have a new Fox body for it next week and am thinking of making a video showing all the breaks on the Rigid body as an example of where to reinforce. I typically use amazing goop, drywall tape and other pieces of plastic with more glue.
Normandy Kush I’ve used two layers of gorilla tape apply the visual side as wide as lower body molding of side skirt panel and the rest of the tape folded over and under the body adhering to inside the body panel.. poke the two holes need for screws to go through and your set..my rear screw holes were completely tore off. After this method has used it has been more than reinforced to handle the beats downs. And body has never popped out of its side rails since..
So, you should know, both of these shocks have springs, one is just internal. Furthermore you really never want to give up droop. I do have some limited experience with these trucks on real life, being I worked for a few fellas that drive the Rockstar energy drink trucks and I've raced with em;)
These trucks are built in real life to sit as low as possible while providing as much travel as possible. This is achieved by what we call droop, it's suspension travel that only comes into play when the truck leaves the ground and the suspension is allowed to unload in the air. This is when its needed, landing a big jump! Otherwise most that travel never gets used on the track. In rock crawling we do similar things for the same reasons but rather than landing jumps, we're looking for that axle to allow the suspension to droop and reach way down to put a tire on the ground to provide traction. I suggest using the stock positions unless you understand how shock oil, compression dampening, rebound dampening and ride height work in conjunction with each other. We can't control much in these shocks other than oil viscosity and spring rate so, if you wish to bash, go to thicker oil and a stiffer spring, only with few exceptions should you ever move shock mounting positions. Traxxas did a lot of testing that unless you have a suspension dyno or a lot of time and good understanding.... You can't compete with. Don't reinvent the wheel fellas. Good luck.
ive been trying to land a corkscrew for months!
Kevin Talbot how do you have time to watch these videos? I thought you were building a Monstertruck
Don’t fling your dookie at me hes "taking his time"
My experience with these MFR arms has been nothing short of amazing. It's the one upgrade (do both sets, top and bottom) that made the most difference in terms of ending up on the workbench, and adding strength to an otherwise fraggle set of trailing arms. Been using them since May of 2019 and they are still on the truck, working great, as of this post.
That the Rods bend is a good thing believe me. It absorbs the force of an impact and makes sure nothing else is broken permanantly. Real cars have that to
Yeah but once these bent, they were seriously weak. Got annoying
Mine are coming tomorrow. Can’t wait!
I got some on order too should be here anytime now,great video its a definite upgrade needed for the udr
Looks like I got a few orders to place here look great.where about a is this shop In 🇺🇸?
Mfr is located near Pittsburgh Pa USA
Jeremy R nice 👍🏼 thanks for
The info..
ThatsMyRc did u see price? I’m wondering what price is, I’m not sure what company brands mine is bought off eBay for $25
Steve Declark yes I checked out the site.. it’s $70 for lower link pair. They sell some other goodies too even trx4 parts..I saw the ones on eBay when udr first came out.. the ones I saw on eBay were from China.. not knocking them but didn’t know enough about the metal quality used and new to the market..
Awesome, I'm picking my UDR up Friday, definitely like to get these links for sure. Thanks for sharing I'll be watching for more
Use the code exocaged for $5 off your order
do u want to buy a used one with upgrdes not installed/???
great video great coverage .just a suggestion put rubber bands on the rear fenders .do not use screws just stick the band thought the hole and rear bumper.after the second body i learned the hard way.just use the top body screws. it works great . THANK YOU Bill
damn. those things look sweet installed.😁😀very professional truck and editing bro, nice slomos
Thanks. Maybe one day I’ll get really good at editing with real software.
Great guys that own that company. Locally made here near Pittsburgh. I recommend them to everyone.
I have a set of upper and lower arms coming from him nice quality love your videos 💪🏻
Ouuuuuch that hurt man~! seeing the truck hit sideways off the ramp, lol
YEEEES, FIRST REAL METAL UPGRADES FOR UDR !
yep and totally awesome too, use the discount code for $5 off
Awesome video excellent truck masive upgrades wicked jumps and slow motion wild shot very cool bashing
Man all 4 links lookes very bad. its a bit weak from traxxas to put something like this into a truck like this! But now it schuold be much stronger💪👌. Great job.
I just sent an email to mfr. I told them i watched your video. Hopefully they ship to canada
Secure your body king ! It looks like a slash when it lands now!
Rods won't break yes but the shock now transfers to the chassis links
I just hope it can take it !
I'll find out for sure, this body is dead, both sides of the back are totally destroyed, I have a new Fox body ordered and should be here next week.
Thank you very much . Bill
This was a good video man, very informative, great job.
I noticed that when you had the shocks in the rear most postion. The udr jumped farther down the line.
Yeah there were subtle differences in the settings so it will end up being a great way to change setups for bashers and racers alike.
Wow, the links look super sweet! Nice vid 👍
Are the upper links longer than the stock? I need longer links to remove the terrible pinion angle.
Derek E no sir they are the same length. I did add 3 washers under the rod ends which got the pinion up and has really reduced driveshaft angle and temps.
Now that you’ve had some time to drive it I’ll bet it’s sweet with all that extra weight down low in the back I’d like to see a cool video of it please
well basically every single UDR video I've made since this one was done has had them on it, even the water crossing videos
I got mine a few days ago and it is a dream ☝️
Yeah dude they are awesome. Did you try the Exocaged discount code?
Exocaged RC no,I walk inside my hobby bench and walk out with it..,1000$later with 2 batteries and a charger 😂☝️
lol dang
Hey great video! Just a question. I was wondering is it bad to put that much extra weight on the back ?
With the new shock position on the links you have to much bounce on the landing !!
With a weight increase of 3 times, did you do anything to the shocks to compensate for the extra unsprung weight?
Great video!! Thanks
Used your link brotha, thanks
I just ordered both
Hey man thanks for the tip
I don't have a UDR, but great video!!!
thank you
yes
Just placed my order :)
did you use the code?
I'd rather bend an upper link than crack the plastic on the chassis or axle. The bottom ones are nice though.
I thought the same thing but I’ve crashed it way too much and I’ve not had a chassis break yet.
@@ExocagedRC knock on would huh lol I'm going to get some lowers the uppers I'll keep stock for now anyways I just want to be able to adjust rebound on the rear
Did one change the wheel base? It looks a little off in the closing shot.
no sir the wheelbase is the same, could be the almost destroyed body?
the udr wasn’t designed to jump that high, hence why you bend and break things. if u wanna jump high. grab a monster truck or a truggy.
Of course it’s not meant to jump like that, but the video would be boring if I were driving to scale. And for getting really crazy yeah I have several big trucks and my favorite by far is the Xmaxx.
Could you just replace the top links? It seems that the bending you’re getting that’s destroying your lower links is coming from the top links bending (since they are what keep the rear end straight)... I would do the full set, but I was just curious...
All the rear links are weak, sure you can replace just the top but that won't help the lowers
Exocaged RC gotcha... not a bad investment for the whole kit...
Look at the damaged parts on your body! So when new come reinforce it with e6000 craft glue and dry wall tape! . The skirting between the two wheels !the two screws is the weakest part on the truck every were else is thick lexan !! ( Shatter proof plastic ruler , that kids/ children use!, Drimmeled in to snap , o r what ever can make the area thicker :)
I should have a new Fox body for it next week and am thinking of making a video showing all the breaks on the Rigid body as an example of where to reinforce. I typically use amazing goop, drywall tape and other pieces of plastic with more glue.
Normandy Kush I’ve used two layers of gorilla tape apply the visual side as wide as lower body molding of side skirt panel and the rest of the tape folded over and under the body adhering to inside the body panel.. poke the two holes need for screws to go through and your set..my rear screw holes were completely tore off. After this method has used it has been more than reinforced to handle the beats downs. And body has never popped out of its side rails since..
Not sponsored by dynalube
LoL I do get deals on the stuff
Traxxas doesn’t use metal part for one reason and that’s to keep cost down.
Bro what size are the wheel nuts?
5mm thread. 8mm hex size. So an 8mm wrench fits them
What is the link
Look in the description. Links are there.
You want your truck light not heavy.
Yeah but strength usually comes with added weight. It’s a downward spiral if you go too far.
Traxxas uses cheap parts so it will break and force you to buy upgrades from an affiliate
Those stock top links are absolutely garbage. Anything that small diameter & that long are obviously gonna be weak. Idk what they were thinking. Lol
I know man, I was straightening them multiple times per drive. Not any more