Don't buy these parts until they break, I have had stock a long time and have not experienced anything wrong listed in this video. I drive mine just as hard as Kevin, which is saying a lot. Trust me on this one!
Very first thing I did after unboxing the UDR, I immediately took off the oil bottles, battery and painted all of that stuff, it looks so much better and is well worth the time and effort!
Had mine for 4 years and I have another too but it's 2 years old and the only stuff he's mentioned that I've broken was 2 hex's a pair of limiting straps but I like it without the straps anyways (more travel) and I'm just now needing to replaced my 4 year old slow udr servo that's going out on me
Great video I've done extensive research for my UDR. The best thing for the body is white gorilla tape it may add a little extra pound or two to the truck but it's definitely worth it it keeps that body from cracking all the way through. I had my original body for almost a year before I cut it and made something else for the truck. Fantastic video bro keep it up
@@AMain_Hobbies I've done a lot of upgrades ,not many aluminum upgrades other than the wheel hubs and the rear planetary housing and the center transmission planetary housing is from hot racing. I did a tire foam upgrade by crawler creations ,definitely made a difference in traction ,much thicker foam. I changed my power plant also to a Max 8 combo 2200 KV. It screams!!! It's definitely a ticking time bomb though LOL constant reapair. That's part of it! I've got a couple videos on here feel free to check them out. Keep up the great work bro have a great day.
One thing I would never run is the Aluminum suspension arms. One hit, and they are done and they aren't cheap to replace. I run RPM on all of my r/c's and I love them. Yeah, they are plain jane parts, but at least I know I won't be spending a large amount of money on extra parts, especially if they are aluminum. As for the rest of the parts you suggest, I agree, those are good upgrades. You are showing all of these parts for the UDR, but you seem to be out of a lot of them.
Vitavon makes a sweet aluminum rear axle housing and method aluminum rims, also a chromoly rear driveshaft for the UDR. The rims are quite heavy and they will strain the front centre driveshaft, but they look amazing. Afro Luchia makes some of the nicest aluminum rear trailing arms for it as well.
the limiting straps are a MUST and not for looks after the first year of driving my UDR the rear driveshaft wore out so i but 4 spares and went through all for in less that 2 months and it was because the rubber limiting straps that came on the UDR had stretched only a little but just enough to stress the driveshaft when the suspension would unload so DEFINITELY keep an on the limiting straps they are NOT cosmetic and the Hot Racing ones are a good upgrade
Got my new UDR today. Plan to break it in on 4S then maybe go to 6S. Hoping to run it stock for a while and upgrade as needed. Should have ordered it a bit earlier, torrential rains now, snow forecasted but until today it was great weather. Don’t want to do break in when it’s sloppy outside. Thanks for the information.
Congrats Marvin! You're going to love that truck! It's amazing on 4S or 6S, so no issue there. And I don't blame you on waiting for the weather because that truck will get really nasty fast. I'm more of a fair weather driver so I understand. If you need any help with anything, let us know! Have fun. -Brett
Best videos on this chanel, best descriptions, nice and amazing comments. And ... great english language and no grmugfrgdurrgh-slang english. I like it ... here so far away in Germany.
Awesome truck no doubt! I had it for 2 years now. Installed the Murat RC lights as they were the first to make lights for it. Now thinking of the Traxxas light kit as it looks the bomb. One will never get tired of this amazing total scale, big but not too big, lots of hop ups and upgrades and very very nimble. I always get compliments as how good looking this truck is as well... 💖
I am considering getting one of these. How has the reliability been? I have heard people say its fine or they are replacing parts every time they go out. I suspect those that break stuff are bashing it at skate parks etc though and not scale driving around the dirt.
@@ColoradoStreaming As far as scale goes, NOTHING comes close. I actually built another one from scratch all hopped up, did cost about 2,500.00 USD it's a shelf Queen. Back to your question... Durability, My original one purchased Dec, 2017 driving it often with MILD bashing, rollovers and PLENTY of jumping nothing actually broke. Maybe it was luck? At any rate except for general maintenance like changing the Diff/Shock fluids 3 times/year and replaced the front skid plate, not that it broke just warped to be expected from being the part that takes the most abuse... NOTHING broke. ANY RC driven hard on concrete and skate parks WILL break, I've seen it happen to slash, Arrmas, Xmaxx. ect.. I'm not getting paid to say this, like many on You Tube! Performs best in dirt and sand, absolutely on grass especially wet grass it will be rolling over. The locked rear DIFF though certainly lays down the power is the reason for rollovers. I love it though. tough as nails IMHO. Keep in mind many intricate parts as it's SCALE so treat it with some respect and do enjoy it should you get it. remember the maintenance which is absolutely necessary. Being scale getting to the parts that need servicing will be a bitch! But it's all part of the game. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. YES, I recommend the Traxxas UDR👍
@@rccosplay3249 Since I already treat my cars with respect I suspect this car to last a very long time. All I would want to get right out of the box is a set of tires so I dont have to worry about bashing and hooning around on the stock tires
I have the RPM trailing arms and they're great! They're way cheaper than the aluminum, but definitely an upgrade. The replaceable skids came in handy. The only problem my buddies have told me with the aluminum arms is that since they dont flex at all, sometimes they break the mount off the rear axle housing.
The engineers at traxxas know what they’re doing. If you make a component on this truck then that energy may be transferred to something else more critical and expensive to replace. The steering servo may be adequate for this truck and still break under extreme abuse. I have yet to experience any failure on my UDR for the past 2 years but I use it within the parameters of it’s design and that’s something I rarely see on you tube videos.
I've been eyeing 1 of these for awhile now but the wife kept saying no due to the price,lol. Then today she saw 1 for a very reasonably price and looks barely used and even included some new parts and extras and told me to get it. So I snagged it before she could change her mind 😄. Though I have a suspicion she saw something that she wanted 🤔. Oh well,at least I'll finally have a UDR soon 😄
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanx,I heard it's a great truck when driven like it's actually meant to and not bashing it around. Yup my wife is def a keeper for sure as she digs the rc stuff and has a few of her own. Even though the UDR cost me a dinner,movie and a new outfit and purse (which she doesn't need trust me 🙄😂) it was well worth it.
the center driveshaft is the only part you really need to replace on a UDR! I had one for over a year and i never stripped a wheel nut, never had problems with the stock servo, stock wheels or stock trailing arms and you always used it on 6s on concrete, grass and dirt.
Interesting. Everything you broke, we haven't; and everything we broke, you haven't. You never know with RC because we all drive different, and in different terrains. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies maybe im too cautious with my driving lol thing is i don't bash my udr too hard cos ultimately is not a basher so i prefer to just rip it for speed and light jumps :)
@@AMain_Hobbies Yep, the driveshaft 2x, I now have an MIP steel one. The rear differential, had to replace all the little gears, and the front sway bar type thing plastic pieces. The body is completely duck taped together at this point. The metal wheel discs are mandatory on this truck 😉
I only have problems with the wheel hexes and trailing arms i put metal hexes and rpm trailing arms don’t use metal arms ur chassis and bulkhead will be destroyed and the upper links bending but u want those to have some flex so I spray my plastic with wd-40 Kevin trick
It's been one year since you posted this comment. Have you since picked one up? I've had mine since November of 2018 and I enjoy it still. It's long since been upgraded with nearly every possible upgrade on the market except I'm still running a stock ESC. Not the original that came in the truck as it died and I took out a warranty claim for another. If you did get it, do you like it? If you don't like it, what do you not like about it? A lot of other RCs have come along since the time you posted this comment.
i have one but every time i save up for an xo1 my bank accout balance is 100 but now im holding that in there it was 0 for a long time i only have one hundred dollars
Just bought one today it rips it’s on 6s with the Bluetooth app it hit 50 on the street that Bluetooth app tells you a lot of info about the truck and customize how the controller performs
The rc4wd wheels have been on back order for over 6 months. You will need a set of fronts and a set of rears. Even though it is not advertised that way the fronts are different than the rears.
I love that tires can upgrade the performance, the stance, and the performance too!!! Oh yeah and did he mention that they can upgrade the performance?
Interesting. You never know I guess. We haven't broken any steering components, other than the servo, but plenty of arms have snapped. Are you still loving the UDR other than that? -Brett
Aluminum is a little heavier than plastic and will increase the overall weight if you start replacing plastic parts with aluminum. Will it adversely effect the truck? Probably not. Adding a pounds of weight isn't good for the electronics, but a few ounces is fine and probably won't be noticed. If anything, the track may have more traction. -Brett
Ive had my UDR since the first shipment went out n these upgrades are exactly the same I did on mine, the stock parts all are still in tack n didn't fail, but before they did I upgraded these parts I thought would eventually fail.
Oh wait the 2nd time it ever touched the ground, I was being nice n let my buddy drive, well 20 seconds later he blasted a curb n busted the lower A-arm
I wouldn’t recommend any aluminum parts unless it’s for internal looks. If you’re a basher when it comes to driving, aluminum my bend and not bend back. I recommend RPM parts because they bend when you crash and then bend back to original position (mostly)
Ive never broke a front or rear suspension arm in 3 years in the hobby. I bought my first rc car second handed and came with aluminium kit. So i never broke it. Now i also have a slash 4x4 4s and never broke one. Its stock traxxas arm
I'm thinking about getting new shocks but the 1s i have are to soft and other putting other parts in the Truck like. New Motor and battery stronger parts wich will make THE Truck go faster and stronger just can't wait
Lol forgot about this question. I ended up getting a arrma outcast 6s. I think I made the right choice it’s been a blast with no needed upgrades and only broke 1 time
I have the Vitavon billet beadlock wheels the stock tyres fit them but not the Hyrax tyres slightly different design and measurement differences, do you know if the Hyrax will fit the RC4WD wheels, I would like these as I have them on my Kraken-RC Vekta 5 and my KV5TT as the are more scale looking, the Vitavon are good looking and are a copy of the stock rim.
Biggest mistake selling my UDR. Not making that mistake again as my lady is obsessed with trophy trucks and we are ordering our pair. Put her hands on one but was not at our LHS. Should be here in time for her birthday for a surprise build with the F100 black body.
What is the difference between hot racing 140mm,110mm,115mm,105mm,and 95 mm limit straps does the 140mm have more droop? And what gives more suspension travel?
Yeah, you got it; the longer the strap, the more the axle can drop and increase droop, where a shorter strap limits the axle drop and droop. For more suspension travel, longer shocks will do it, but mostly with a solid axle. With an independent suspension, you run into issues with the driveshaft not plugging in deep enough to the outdrive cup when the suspension arm movement (droop) goes to low, and the dogbone can actually pop out. So a little more challenging to extend travel with independent setup, but with solid axle much easier. Both setups require longer shocks though. -Brett
Hello alzamil! Yes, we can ship to Saudi Arabia but we cannot ship all items or parts. We cannot ship Traxxas parts, LiPo batteries, or 2.4GHz radio electronics. But most of the other parts, tires and accessories, we can ship! -Brett
Do you mean the SW1210SG? The SW1210SG is considered a "tall" servo, having a height that exceeds the 42mm standard, and may not be compatible in all situations. Because of this, it was not used. -Brett
AMain Hobbies tall servo? I used it in all my traxxas cars (stampede, slash, trx4 and trx6) axial capra, arrma kraton and typhon. Its a direct and perfect fit. The dimensions off the savox sw1210mg is 40.6x20.7x42.0. The savox sw0240mg is a tall servo with a height of 59.0mm.
Why am I watching this I don't even have a UDR.
Same lol
Because you want to change that.
-Brett
I’m just watching because I’m getting a udr for my birthday
Me too😳
Same haha
Don't buy these parts until they break, I have had stock a long time and have not experienced anything wrong listed in this video. I drive mine just as hard as Kevin, which is saying a lot. Trust me on this one!
After a week my rear diff exploaded lol
thanks for the tip
@@BeatSaberNoob how?! Ive hadine for half a year and i only broke some parts
Same here I drive my UDR hard and ive only broken a rear lower trailing arm and the front bumper.
@@BeatSaberNoob Did you take it apart and see what went wrong? Curious to hear how it broke
Very first thing I did after unboxing the UDR, I immediately took off the oil bottles, battery and painted all of that stuff, it looks so much better and is well worth the time and effort!
Trying to get one ant suggestion
Yeah gay losers usually paint it when they can't afford real upgrades. Now we know
The only upgrade I needed, more than once was the damn servo! Everything else seems to hold up to mild bashing👍
Agree！Keep using the stock nylon parts.
EcoPower servos are so waterproof! I absolutely submerge my Mojave and Baja Rey in a creek all the time🤙
Had mine for 4 years and I have another too but it's 2 years old and the only stuff he's mentioned that I've broken was 2 hex's a pair of limiting straps but I like it without the straps anyways (more travel) and I'm just now needing to replaced my 4 year old slow udr servo that's going out on me
The BEST: MIP driveshaft. They did a really good job.
Edit: also custom slightly shorter limit straps will make help the driveshaft.
5SC Basher great advice!
It’s little tips like this that will end up saving people hundreds of dollars.
I’m buying a udr later today. This was very helpful
Great video I've done extensive research for my UDR. The best thing for the body is white gorilla tape it may add a little extra pound or two to the truck but it's definitely worth it it keeps that body from cracking all the way through. I had my original body for almost a year before I cut it and made something else for the truck. Fantastic video bro keep it up
Great tip. That little extra weight is worth it.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies I've done a lot of upgrades ,not many aluminum upgrades other than the wheel hubs and the rear planetary housing and the center transmission planetary housing is from hot racing. I did a tire foam upgrade by crawler creations ,definitely made a difference in traction ,much thicker foam. I changed my power plant also to a Max 8 combo 2200 KV. It screams!!! It's definitely a ticking time bomb though LOL constant reapair. That's part of it! I've got a couple videos on here feel free to check them out. Keep up the great work bro have a great day.
@@rcbullshit7859 Thanks man.
-Brett
I wouldn't do aluminum trailing arms, has a higher chance of ripping out and messing up the car even more since it won't absorb impacts like the rpms
I wouldn‘t do any aluminum parts for my UDR. The only oen upgrade I made was RPM trailing arms
One thing I would never run is the Aluminum suspension arms. One hit, and they are done and they aren't cheap to replace. I run RPM on all of my r/c's and I love them. Yeah, they are plain jane parts, but at least I know I won't be spending a large amount of money on extra parts, especially if they are aluminum.
As for the rest of the parts you suggest, I agree, those are good upgrades.
You are showing all of these parts for the UDR, but you seem to be out of a lot of them.
Unless your building a show truck shelf queen ✔️ -mine is going to look amazing.💙
My desert racer has never performed better and looked better at the same time, Thanks Amain Hobbies 👍
I shared this video with my brother because he own's a UDR him self,I hope this helps him,ThankYou for Uploading this AmainHobbies👍
Vitavon makes a sweet aluminum rear axle housing and method aluminum rims, also a chromoly rear driveshaft for the UDR. The rims are quite heavy and they will strain the front centre driveshaft, but they look amazing. Afro Luchia makes some of the nicest aluminum rear trailing arms for it as well.
You're awesome Brett! Thanks for these videos buddy!
the limiting straps are a MUST and not for looks after the first year of driving my UDR the rear driveshaft wore out so i but 4 spares and went through all for in less that 2 months and it was because the rubber limiting straps that came on the UDR had stretched only a little but just enough to stress the driveshaft when the suspension would unload so DEFINITELY keep an on the limiting straps they are NOT cosmetic and the Hot Racing ones are a good upgrade
Great tip! Thanks Ocular.
-Brett
Im watching it because im a UA-cam junkie lol and its good to see what other rc's are out there. Great vids fella keep up the good work
Right same here lmao
Got my new UDR today. Plan to break it in on 4S then maybe go to 6S. Hoping to run it stock for a while and upgrade as needed. Should have ordered it a bit earlier, torrential rains now, snow forecasted but until today it was great weather. Don’t want to do break in when it’s sloppy outside. Thanks for the information.
Congrats Marvin! You're going to love that truck! It's amazing on 4S or 6S, so no issue there. And I don't blame you on waiting for the weather because that truck will get really nasty fast. I'm more of a fair weather driver so I understand. If you need any help with anything, let us know! Have fun.
-Brett
After 18 months of running and bashing this UDR of mine, tough cookie no doubt! 💖
Excellent! They're great trucks. Happy you are enjoying yours.
-Brett
Best videos on this chanel, best descriptions, nice and amazing comments. And ... great english language and no grmugfrgdurrgh-slang english. I like it ... here so far away in Germany.
Awesome truck no doubt! I had it for 2 years now. Installed the Murat RC lights as they were the first to make lights for it. Now thinking of the Traxxas light kit as it looks the bomb. One will never get tired of this amazing total scale, big but not too big, lots of hop ups and upgrades and very very nimble. I always get compliments as how good looking this truck is as well... 💖
I am considering getting one of these. How has the reliability been? I have heard people say its fine or they are replacing parts every time they go out. I suspect those that break stuff are bashing it at skate parks etc though and not scale driving around the dirt.
@@ColoradoStreaming As far as scale goes, NOTHING comes close. I actually built another one from scratch all hopped up, did cost about 2,500.00 USD it's a shelf Queen. Back to your question... Durability, My original one purchased Dec, 2017 driving it often with MILD bashing, rollovers and PLENTY of jumping nothing actually broke. Maybe it was luck? At any rate except for general maintenance like changing the Diff/Shock fluids 3 times/year and replaced the front skid plate, not that it broke just warped to be expected from being the part that takes the most abuse... NOTHING broke. ANY RC driven hard on concrete and skate parks WILL break, I've seen it happen to slash, Arrmas, Xmaxx. ect.. I'm not getting paid to say this, like many on You Tube! Performs best in dirt and sand, absolutely on grass especially wet grass it will be rolling over. The locked rear DIFF though certainly lays down the power is the reason for rollovers. I love it though. tough as nails IMHO. Keep in mind many intricate parts as it's SCALE so treat it with some respect and do enjoy it should you get it. remember the maintenance which is absolutely necessary. Being scale getting to the parts that need servicing will be a bitch! But it's all part of the game. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. YES, I recommend the Traxxas UDR👍
@@rccosplay3249 Since I already treat my cars with respect I suspect this car to last a very long time. All I would want to get right out of the box is a set of tires so I dont have to worry about bashing and hooning around on the stock tires
I bet driving that thing is such a good experience. it looks like it drives so smooth compared to other rc cars
It does it’s amazing
Its awesome to drive and looks great
It handles amazing!
its extremely satisfying going over any bumps
You can also paint the logos on the tires and it looks pretty cool.
Good tip! I've seen that done and it looks great. What did you use to paint the logos? I've heard of people using a white out pen.
-Brett
I have the RPM trailing arms and they're great! They're way cheaper than the aluminum, but definitely an upgrade. The replaceable skids came in handy. The only problem my buddies have told me with the aluminum arms is that since they dont flex at all, sometimes they break the mount off the rear axle housing.
Awh, interesting. That's a good thing to keep in mind when upgrading! Thanks.
-Brett
The aluminum arms stress the chassis mounting points in my experience
Lots of ppl say how weak the user is. And it kept me from buying it. But I finally got one and it’s been great. Just hard on tires n body
Another necessary upgrade would be the MIP rear driveshaft. Broke my factory driveshaft on the first jump.
Just replace it with the one on the back of the truck Infront of the 2 wheels
I own a slash 4x4 vxl and in the first day I crashed it in a pole and broke the front suspension arm. I got a rpm replacement!
Awesome. That's the way to go.
-Brett
The engineers at traxxas know what they’re doing. If you make a component on this truck then that energy may be transferred to something else more critical and expensive to replace. The steering servo may be adequate for this truck and still break under extreme abuse. I have yet to experience any failure on my UDR for the past 2 years but I use it within the parameters of it’s design and that’s something I rarely see on you tube videos.
I've been eyeing 1 of these for awhile now but the wife kept saying no due to the price,lol. Then today she saw 1 for a very reasonably price and looks barely used and even included some new parts and extras and told me to get it. So I snagged it before she could change her mind 😄. Though I have a suspicion she saw something that she wanted 🤔. Oh well,at least I'll finally have a UDR soon 😄
Nice, congrats! It's a great truck. Sounds like a great wife too!
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanx,I heard it's a great truck when driven like it's actually meant to and not bashing it around. Yup my wife is def a keeper for sure as she digs the rc stuff and has a few of her own. Even though the UDR cost me a dinner,movie and a new outfit and purse (which she doesn't need trust me 🙄😂) it was well worth it.
4:52 i love that even tho it says Low price $63.99 even the AMain bloke has to say they better look good at that price
udr's are awesome.
Getting one of these tomorrow! Looking forward to it
A Trencher tooth right there.....A fan of the vids.
Keep it up, aunt Brentaita.
6:23 not only can tyres improve performance and stance but also the performance.
the center driveshaft is the only part you really need to replace on a UDR! I had one for over a year and i never stripped a wheel nut, never had problems with the stock servo, stock wheels or stock trailing arms and you always used it on 6s on concrete, grass and dirt.
Interesting. Everything you broke, we haven't; and everything we broke, you haven't. You never know with RC because we all drive different, and in different terrains.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies maybe im too cautious with my driving lol thing is i don't bash my udr too hard cos ultimately is not a basher so i prefer to just rip it for speed and light jumps :)
That's the way to go with the UDR.
-Brett
Had I watched the decal tip prior to running my car it would be much prettier, but thank you for helping me slow it. Traxxas included stickers!!
Also remplace the plastic center driveshaft..
Ive never had a problem with any of my water resistant savox servos, i submerge them all the time.
Good to know. Thanks Travis.
-Brett
Excellent vid!!! 🤙
awesome video as usual
we'll put together. I've broken every part you mentioned on my UDR. haha.
Ha, funny. Are there any parts you broke that we didn't mention?
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Yep, the driveshaft 2x, I now have an MIP steel one. The rear differential, had to replace all the little gears, and the front sway bar type thing plastic pieces. The body is completely duck taped together at this point. The metal wheel discs are mandatory on this truck 😉
Nice. That isn't too bad I guess. Someone else was saying they went through a few driveshafts too. She's still running though!
-Brett
Great video bro....im loving my UDR and working on the upgrades....👍👍👍😎
I only have problems with the wheel hexes and trailing arms i put metal hexes and rpm trailing arms don’t use metal arms ur chassis and bulkhead will be destroyed and the upper links bending but u want those to have some flex so I spray my plastic with wd-40 Kevin trick
You missed adding bump stops to rear shocks from the Losi baja Rey
Alloy control arms are a no go unless you want to break your diff housing!
Which is better RC the Arrma Mojave or the Traxxas. Because I want to buy one and I like both.
The Mojave is definitely tougher but it doesn’t have the scale charm of the udr
If you want something in between there is the losi super baja Rey
It’s still on my wishlist, every time I save up to buy one life happens and it gets set back
I know the feels #dadlife lol
It's been one year since you posted this comment. Have you since picked one up? I've had mine since November of 2018 and I enjoy it still. It's long since been upgraded with nearly every possible upgrade on the market except I'm still running a stock ESC. Not the original that came in the truck as it died and I took out a warranty claim for another. If you did get it, do you like it? If you don't like it, what do you not like about it? A lot of other RCs have come along since the time you posted this comment.
i have one but every time i save up for an xo1 my bank accout balance is 100 but now im holding that in there it was 0 for a long time i only have one hundred dollars
Still a sick truck today
Just bought one today it rips it’s on 6s with the Bluetooth app it hit 50 on the street that Bluetooth app tells you a lot of info about the truck and customize how the controller performs
Sway bars. The china 3mm sway bars change the truck n make it driveable.
Do a video on the big rock blx
The rc4wd wheels have been on back order for over 6 months. You will need a set of fronts and a set of rears. Even though it is not advertised that way the fronts are different than the rears.
want one but cant afford it. plus what is that background noise that sounds like you're dropping something aluminium on the table?
you covered all the bases for necessary upgrades very well. Love my UDR but i break it every time i drive it. kinda frustrating
How hard do you drive it?
@@wyattmcduffee hard . I drive it like I rented it and got the extended insurance plan
I love that tires can upgrade the performance, the stance, and the performance too!!! Oh yeah and did he mention that they can upgrade the performance?
Just in case anyone missed it, tires upgrade general performance, overall performance and specialized performance too.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies I was just messing with you........😬🙄🤐
Great videos as always!!!!!
@@skeetermcswagger0U812 Haha me too!
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Yeah I figured, turn about's fair play!!! ROTFFLMMAO!!!
-Brad
Thanks!
Do guys have like a upgrade packages
WISH LIST!!! or is there a way to build one at perhaps half the price?
Not really. It would be least expensive to start with the RTR truck vs building one from all the parts.
-Brett
Great tips Aunt Jammima 😂
Have a great day Brett ✌🏼😎👍🏼
sylvainster30 sadly 9 months after you said this , aunt Jammima has been murdered by liberals in America.
KReGaDeTH wtf? Are you serious?
You can't use stock front shafts with the rpm a arms. You will also need aftermarket cv or slider style axles.
bro, that sucks
Losi Super Baja Rey recommended upgrades when?
None needed lol
I bought the Traxxas 400 Torque Waterproof Servo 2255. Do I need to buy BEC part number 2260 as well?
No, the servo will operate without a BEC.
-Brett
I've never broken the suspension arm but I have broken many steering blocks and servos
Interesting. You never know I guess. We haven't broken any steering components, other than the servo, but plenty of arms have snapped. Are you still loving the UDR other than that?
-Brett
Will all of these metal parts increase the overall weight of the truck (sprung and unsprung) and adversely affect handling?
Aluminum is a little heavier than plastic and will increase the overall weight if you start replacing plastic parts with aluminum. Will it adversely effect the truck? Probably not. Adding a pounds of weight isn't good for the electronics, but a few ounces is fine and probably won't be noticed. If anything, the track may have more traction.
-Brett
Honestly... no one mentioned rear sway bars?
Ive had my UDR since the first shipment went out n these upgrades are exactly the same I did on mine, the stock parts all are still in tack n didn't fail, but before they did I upgraded these parts I thought would eventually fail.
Oh wait the 2nd time it ever touched the ground, I was being nice n let my buddy drive, well 20 seconds later he blasted a curb n busted the lower A-arm
I got the paddle tires as soon as they were available n the UDR with them in the snow equals FUN!!!!!
Brent I need ur help, looking to buy 3 of the 10th anniversary Arrma Outcast's
@@STEVOD313 Send him an email
@@philthyco1 Not gonna email him about the video when i can just write a bunch of short novels to him in comments LOL
OMG 2 commercials and you can't skip either.... FML I hate youtube.
Use revanced
I wouldn’t recommend any aluminum parts unless it’s for internal looks. If you’re a basher when it comes to driving, aluminum my bend and not bend back. I recommend RPM parts because they bend when you crash and then bend back to original position (mostly)
Ive never broke a front or rear suspension arm in 3 years in the hobby. I bought my first rc car second handed and came with aluminium kit. So i never broke it. Now i also have a slash 4x4 4s and never broke one. Its stock traxxas arm
Great tips!
Please say that how to upgrade more faster of udr
The fan detail in the back has actual working fans. They're not fake.
Udr is huge, May i choose kyosho rampage pro kit, please?
Barış İşsever lol why are u asking for permission?
I want a UDR so bad but they’re not cheap here in Europe
Jonah Fastré they aren’t cheap in australia either
Tøp Is Awesome I can imagine that
Jonah Fastré they are;my cheap in the U.S. either. They’re 800 dollars (which is a LOT for an rc car here)
In australia they are about 1300 dollars
@@mojaverc1585 same here in UK way too cheap in USa
UDR's Rock?
I'm thinking about getting new shocks but the 1s i have are to soft and other putting other parts in the Truck like. New Motor and battery stronger parts wich will make THE Truck go faster and stronger just can't wait
What’s this rig like in grass? Can’t find a vid of it in any grass.
It drives awesome in grass whether it be green or dead. Mine drove good in grass up to the hood
Lol forgot about this question. I ended up getting a arrma outcast 6s. I think I made the right choice it’s been a blast with no needed upgrades and only broke 1 time
Why didn’t break the front suspension on but I broke the back everything
THE FRONT PLASTIC DRIVE SHAFT and duck tape underneath the body
do the aluminum suspension parts travel damage deeper into the chassis?
How do you mean?
-Brett
I have the Vitavon billet beadlock wheels the stock tyres fit them but not the Hyrax tyres slightly different design and measurement differences, do you know if the Hyrax will fit the RC4WD wheels, I would like these as I have them on my Kraken-RC Vekta 5 and my KV5TT as the are more scale looking, the Vitavon are good looking and are a copy of the stock rim.
We added the Hyrax to the Traxxas wheels and it was a snug, near perfect fit. Haven't tried the RC4WD wheels though, sorry.
-Brett
Biggest mistake selling my UDR. Not making that mistake again as my lady is obsessed with trophy trucks and we are ordering our pair. Put her hands on one but was not at our LHS.
Should be here in time for her birthday for a surprise build with the F100 black body.
What is the difference between hot racing 140mm,110mm,115mm,105mm,and 95 mm limit straps does the 140mm have more droop? And what gives more suspension travel?
Yeah, you got it; the longer the strap, the more the axle can drop and increase droop, where a shorter strap limits the axle drop and droop. For more suspension travel, longer shocks will do it, but mostly with a solid axle. With an independent suspension, you run into issues with the driveshaft not plugging in deep enough to the outdrive cup when the suspension arm movement (droop) goes to low, and the dogbone can actually pop out. So a little more challenging to extend travel with independent setup, but with solid axle much easier. Both setups require longer shocks though.
-Brett
are the stock servos water proof?
Yes they are.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies awesome thanks
Is it gonna die when I drive like submarine with no waterproofing work?
As long as you properly clean it after getting it wet it SHOULD be fine
So u can buy a UDR and expend 300 $ to make it durable or.. just buy a Baja Ray
But lose the cool look, unless you get the new 2.0 version
Aftermarket front driveshaft is a must.
Good info brother
I think the best upgrade is to replace it to losi super baja😎😎
heheheh
Just picked one up ehh.
you would have to get the Aluminum wheels if you get the hexes
Why is everything shown " out of stock" in your video?
At the time it was out of stock I suppose.
-Brett
I got the hot racing straps, they don’t fit,. wrong screw size
Just got mine worth every dollar!
What chassis is good for rallying?
Arrma Mojave v2
Can you shipping to Saudi arabia?
Hello alzamil! Yes, we can ship to Saudi Arabia but we cannot ship all items or parts. We cannot ship Traxxas parts, LiPo batteries, or 2.4GHz radio electronics. But most of the other parts, tires and accessories, we can ship!
-Brett
Just buy a Losi sbr it has all of those upgrades right out of the box
Not all...
-Brett
👍#377: Just doing that thing from this side also.👌
Can you do an upgrade video for the losi Baja rey
Best upgrade for the udr is an arrma mojave!! I've got every upgrade available and still constantly get problema
Sounds like a comparison is next.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yeah I'd do one if my udr wouldnt break down everytime I switch it on 🤣👍
If you want a basher, yes. But the mojave is not a scale truck. It doesnt come anywhere near the detailing that is put into the udr.
Hahaha
Remember, what ever you upgrade will increase the performance, the look and the performance of your UDR.... /Faceplm
Oh good you noticed that noticed that.
-Brett
Why not the savox sw 1210 mg servo 84$ and on 6v 222 and on 7.4v 444
Do you mean the SW1210SG? The SW1210SG is considered a "tall" servo, having a height that exceeds the 42mm standard, and may not be compatible in all situations. Because of this, it was not used.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies tall servo? I used it in all my traxxas cars (stampede, slash, trx4 and trx6) axial capra, arrma kraton and typhon. Its a direct and perfect fit. The dimensions off the savox sw1210mg is 40.6x20.7x42.0.
The savox sw0240mg is a tall servo with a height of 59.0mm.