Spraying Lizard Skin Sound Control Sound Deadening in our DIY Ford Transit Camper Van
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- Опубліковано 2 кві 2022
- This video shows how we sprayed Lizard Skin Sound Control sound deadening in our DIY Ford Transit Camper Van. Sound deadening is super important to make the van as quiet as possible while driving down the road which makes it easier to talk to each other and less fatigue during long trips.
Parts used in this project:
➤Lizard Skin Sound Control (12 Gallons): amzn.to/3x1F9n8
➤Lizard Skin Application Kit: amzn.to/3NJ39Bd
➤Air Compressor: amzn.to/35ydkaE
➤Respirator Mask: amzn.to/3NJh1vC
➤Tyvek Suit: amzn.to/38pkzTu
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➤DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
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➤Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
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➤How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir... - Авто та транспорт
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Parts used in this project:
Lizard Skin Sound Control (12 Gallons): amzn.to/3x1F9n8
Lizard Skin Application Kit: amzn.to/3NJ39Bd
Air Compressor: amzn.to/35ydkaE
Respirator Mask: amzn.to/3NJh1vC
Tyvek Suit: amzn.to/38pkzTu
Recommend foam ear plugs in threaded holes to avoid paint or whatever in them. Easy to see after and can just pull out.
Oh yeah! We actually did do that. Great tip!
@@EXPLORISTlife is the floor aluminum or steel?
I built out a 2020 Transit in my driveway during 2021. Lizard Skin was a product I considered very deeply. But, I concluded the results would not outweigh the effort. First, I would need equipment which I did not own, and would not use regularly after this project. Second, the effort to prep and spray was not going to deliver great enough results for me personally. My final decision was to purchase just enough LS Sound-deadening material for the floor and to paint it on with a brush. I confirmed with the LS team that this was ok and they said yes. It made some improvement, but not enough that I would do it again. After much consideration, I realized that for my lifestyle (I travel and camp mostly in cooler weather, if it gets too hot or humid I go someplace more comfortable), I can crank up the Wabasto furnace and stay VERY comfortable for literally pennies and never hit the cost of spraying in both the sound deadening and the ceramic layers. Much luck on this part of the project. I look forward to seeing the entire build. BTW, thanks for everything you have posted about van life. BattleBorn sent me your electrical layouts and held my hand through my entire electrical system install!
Wow!! I'm only 3 minutes in this video and I'm already EXHAUSTED!! 😆
Haha! I'd much rather spray than tape any day. lol
Nate, people in general would LOVE more details on door panel removal plus A pillar trim removal as many people want to pull these to upgrade the factory speakers. You can then do sound deadening onto the inside of the door’s metal panel, and attach Thinsulate to the plastic door panel and on the length of the A pillar.
This is fantastic!
Hello there and it's always a pleasure seeing your videos. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. 🙂😁
That was the last time the van will ever be that clean. From here on out it will be a collection of voids collecting rarely used stuff and dirt from adventures.
Great job.
So excited to see the results of the ceramic insulation!
Us too!!
thank you sooo much!
What a project that must have been! I will say that paint pour footage was quite impressive🤙
I'm pretty happy that Grace cut the video right before I spilled the stuff all over the place. 😂🙄😂😂
good video!
Nate you are bloody amazing..! i LOVE watching all yr videos..!
Hey, thanks so much! Cheers! 👍
Thanks!
No problem. Happy to help!
Excellent video 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! 🙂🙌
You are making so great videos guys! Thank you. Especially since there is not really much detailed information available about Ford Transit camper conversions... And yes. Please make some more detailed videos about door cover and seat removals. And also swivel seat installation. :-D
Great, Thanks!! 👍
I rolled LS on with a brush. It still works:) although not recommended. I also 'plastered' on the ceramic paint they have focusing on the ceiling and upper panels to decrease external radiant heat.
This brings back memories of stripping my 2 week old car apart back in 1994 to totally cover it in Spray and roll on dynamat, that was for a sound system competition though :D
All good fun and it was such a transformation afterwards.. I did do the bulkhead and foot floors on mine as I wanted to try drown out the diesel dugga dugga as much as I could too.
Back then the dynamat spray was in cans that didn't need an airline and I got through boxes and boxes of the damn things... Having a proper spray gun is definitely the way forward. I think a "shultz" gun may work well here as it has a slightly larger container than a normal spray gun.
On the air compressor front, when money was tight, the trick was to buy those cheap 25 L compressors when they were on offer every couple of months, because they had dual outlets on them it meant I could string them together and act as one. Had three in the end daisy chained together. Worked brilliantly, loads of CFM for any tool you liked
I think when I do the ceramic insulation, I'm going to attempt to just stick the syphon tube down into the 2 gallon pail of the stuff. 🤣🤣 I don't suspect it will work very well...but I'm still going to give it a go.
@@EXPLORISTlife haha Stick the container in the middle of the van and run a hose pipe to it hahaha Might need a few more psi to lift it out the bucket :D
We used Kilmat for our Transit sound deadening. Kudos to you two for all of that disassembly work - I just would not want to put it all back together! We convered all surfaces starting behind the seats and did not worry about the cab area. We converted 100% of the surfaces and did 200% on the wheel wells. We also added some Noco foam sound deadening as well - same company.
The before and after difference in noise level while driving was substantial. While driving down the highway - most of the time (depends on the highway surface of course) we can talk at normal levels and not have to almost shout like we had to before adding the Kilmat.
And once we added our shiplap walls and ceiling, plus insulation, it got even more quiet. Whatever method - sound deadening is worth the money and time. Some only cover 25% or so, but we know more is better, despite what the naysayers . . . say!
I am enjoying the series, but we plan on never doing another one! Be safe.
Very good! How much (how many pounds) did you end up using in Kilmat after all was said and done?
@@EXPLORISTlife I used 2.5 boxes of Noico (like Killmat) 80 mil 2mm 36 sq ft at 27 lbs per box.
I have been considering Lizard Skin for a couple of years. You're definitely helping push me in that direction. You might want to talk about the insulation factor of this product too. Take a surface temp on the outside and the inside and then ambient temp. You'll notice some rather interesting results. Can’t wait for the controversial insulation episode. Cheers from Canader eh!
Perfect! Will do. I bought a thermal camera to pretty much test just what you're describing. Going to do the ceramic insulation on half of the van in the 70 degree shop, pull it out into the cold, and see the difference in how long it takes for the cold to get through.
@@EXPLORISTlife This is a great video, thank you! I'm very interested to see the measurements of both sound and thermals. Did you consider projected cork instead of LS?
@@EXPLORISTlifedid you make the video your taking about thanks
Yes, we did.
I would of gotten a Professional Spray Foam Co. to have applied 2" on walls, and possibly 3" On ceiling. This would of taken care of sound proofing and given an R value of 7 per inch. Did this to my build, its rattle free, quiet and cosy warm.
The risk of having the spray foam making waves in the body panels as the foam cures was too big of a risk for us; but I'm glad it worked well for you!
To each their own
Dang guys, now I feel lazy about taking two weekends to Kilmat my entire Transit. Now I’ll finish watching : )
Haha! Nah, that sounds about right!
lol;0
I’d love to see more information on removing the door panels and seats.
Somehow these two tasks feel more intimidating than many other van build tasks.
Very interesting, I wasn't aware of this product or a spray on insulation. Can't wait to see the next video. Does this stuff hold up well against condensation?
Never mind, I just researched it. It looks like a fantastic product that does resist condensation.
It should indeed hold up well against condensation.
You are doing a fabulous job. love your videos. I guess my big questions are, Is the lizard skin that much more beneficial as a sound reducer? And is it worth the time and money over Kilmat. Looks like the Lizard Skin is a lot of work for the benefits that may not be much more than Kilmat. Curious to see the results. Hopefully in the end, you report if you would do the Lizard Skin again.
Results coming up on Sunday! 👍🙂
😊😊
😁😁
I’ve seen this used as undercoating on the bottom exterior of the van. What are your thoughts vs interior?
Interesting! I didn’t use any sound deadened in mine besides pink foam board and 1/4” ply for my walls. Never had a single squeak and it’s dead quiet. In regards to sound descending the cab, remember that it only gets noisy in high winds with the infamous transit doors that flex and break seal. Other than that, they’re pretty quiet from factory once you complete your buildout.
Thanks. Great video. Do you ever work on Cargo extended vans or just Sprinter type vans?
Thanks! I'm not sure I follow your question... 'Sprinter type vans' ARE cargo vans (passenger vans are just cargo vans with seats and a headliner).
@@EXPLORISTlife
Regular vans (Not the high ceilings) Like Ford E series 250, 350, GMC Savana, etc...
Gotcha. Not me, personally (yet), but all of these videos should give you some inspiration for whatever kind of vehicle you've got going on.
Ok thanks for all the great information.
What do you think about spray-in Polyurethane foam? High R value and sound deadens as well.
There is too big of a risk of the foam warping the body panels and causing ripples as the foam cures for us. I'm also not a fan as it would make body work near impossible if necessary where this stuff in this video plus something like 3M Thinsulate is the same as paint from a body work standpoint.
During your final verdict, can you factor the weight involved with lizardskin Vs Kilmat
Both Lizardskin and Kilmat weigh about a half-pound per square foot.
All of this is "DIY" as long as you have $10k of tools factored into your budget, and a big shop area to do your build. Still, these videos are invaluable
A big shop is not a necessity. We have one now, but we started with a small garage and a driveway.
For tools...I won't be using any tools that most DIYers won't already have for the most part like CNC machines, plasma cutters, etc.
Most DIYers have the basics like hand tools (rachets, sockets, wrenches, etc), air compressors, drills, and stuff like that.
If you're starting with absolutely nothing...there will indeed be a significant portion of the budget to buying tools (like ANY diy project would require).
Can Dynamat be applied over lizzardskin and does doing that even make sense?
thats real crazy people ...
Hey gary lauzon, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Checkout a "pressure pot gun" or "Remote Cup" you could be spraying up to 2 litres of paint.
Ah, yes! That's what I was looking for just had no idea what search terms to use. 🤣
For our van we are considering doing a spray on insulation (likely done by a professional), would you still recommend doing a sound damping solution (LizardSkin or other) or in your experience is the spray insulation sufficient?
I would recommend doing whatever sound dampening method seems most appealing to you (LizardSkin or Peel-and-Stick) and then do some kind of 3m Thinsulate or Havelock wool, or Polyiso foam insulation. I cannot recommend spray foam insulation due to the risk of warping body panels as the foam cures.
Hello
I was wondering why did you seal off the bottom section of the side cargo walls? as it was not explained?
Apologies, but I'm not following your question. We didn't try to 'seal' anything.
@@EXPLORISTlife on the video as you are sitting and explaning On your right-hand side is covered with some brown paper along the bottom side of the van.
@@TheBigBangSpark Oh. That was just keeping the Lizard Skin off of all of the electric door slider components.
Good idea to use plastic bags with labels ....
Definitely! We picked this up when I helped Steph re-build the engine in her truck back when we were 16. 🤣👍
How much product did you end up using for this step? Exactly 12 gallons?
Yep. Bought 12 gallons and used it all.
I have Mercedes T2 which is larger than a Sprinter van. Like you I plan to do walls, floor, ceiling and also front cockpit floors and bulkhead. Ideally I’d like to do inside doors, engine bay and hood but this stuff adds up quickly both in terms of cost and weight.
According to their formula for ~420 sq ft I am supposed to use 17 gallons of insulation product and 21 gallons of sound control. That’s 38 gallons for a total of $6404.
Lizardskin weighs 0.6lbs/sq ft so that’s 252lbs of paint towards the GVWR. Not an issue for me since my GVWR is 16,500lbs but I’m still trying to be mindful of every pound added to my build.
I ended up ordering the commercial version of these products (same manufacturer and formula) which is made by Mascoat and is sold in 5 gallon buckets. The Mascoat sound product is $20.18/gallon cheaper and the heat product is $10.88/gallon cheaper.
Since it’s a water based product my friend was able to dilute both products with water with great success thereby increasing the volume slightly and making it easier to apply.
Why did you go with Lizard Skin like approach and not use these sticky stuff people use? And would this be enough for heat isolation for something like -20C (68F)?
We wanted to test out the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation and since this stuff is a 'step 1 - step 2' kind of deal; we just decided to go all in on both Lizard Skin Sound Control as well as the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation. This was also just one of those "we wanted to try it and see how it went" kind of things.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by your 2nd question.
Lizardskin isn’t insulation per se. You still have to install proper insulation on top of it.
Thanks for the answers. By second question, I mean, with the second ceramic insolation (as you mentioned), can you take your van to a place like a ski resort and stay there without freezing (I mean sleeping without a very heavy sleeping bag!). That's the location (temperature wise) I can guess would be similar to my area in Sweden.
@@mtrezaie The answer is no it would not by any means be sufficient for the situation you are describing. The thermal barrier coating is not a substitute for insulation. It is intended as thermal and anti-condensation protection. You still need to insulate on top of it.
@@carljonsson3292 Thank you very much. I have to do some research on what should/could be added on top of this to have that type of insulation.
Why have to complicate the build with spray paint? Just roll or brush with isolation membrane from Mapei or Redguard. These product work great in tiled shower bath. The surface will be all covered anyway.
Because that's what the instructions recommended for the product we were using. 👍🙂
Slightly confused by “20 mils” surely you mean 2mm? Or is it 20ml, which I’ve no idea how you would measure!
A mil is a measurement equal to 1/1000 of an inch. The application kit includes a little gauge to help measure this.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks! TIL
@@EXPLORISTlife
1/1000th is 0.0254mm, not 20mm (or "mill")
20mm (20mill) is 0.787"
I think the application kit might be wrong.
Full tutorial on removing seats would be awesome
My opinion is that this is a useless money and time wasting exercise.
The only sound attenuation that matters is when the panels and cabinets are installed. I believe spraying this on the walls will have negligible effect on sound in the final fit and finish.
Even if this product works, it should be compared to sound testing using the spray insulation applied in a later video. My bet is the spray insulation will provide at least as much sound control. About the only possible application for this product would be if it is applied standalone without any additional interior finishing.
I’ll bet if you were to do another van conversion this step would be eliminated
Opinion recorded.
Great video! Did you spray the floor? Haven't found any channel saying if beneficial or not for sound deadening or with the ceramic insulation as a thermal break.
We did indeed spray the floor. Will have dedicated videos testing for both sound deadening and ceramic insulation testing coming up over the next 3 weeks, so stay tuned!
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you so much. Subscribed as I'm starting a van build and going through the first steps. Your electrical videos are spot on too coming from an experienced mobile installer.