Lizard Skin Sound Control TESTED in our DIY Ford Transit Campervan
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- Опубліковано 9 кві 2022
- This video is a before-after comparison of installing Lizard Skin Sound Deadening in our Ford Transit DIY Camper Van. In the last episode, we showed how we coated all of the body panels of our Ford Transit Camper Van with Lizard Skin Sound Deadening and in this video, we put it to the test. Check out our results and make a judgement for yourself on if you think it's right for your project or not.
Here is are the products we used to apply the Lizard Skin Sound Control:
➤Lizard Skin Sound Control (12 Gallons): amzn.to/3x1F9n8
➤Lizard Skin Application Kit: amzn.to/3NJ39Bd
➤Air Compressor: amzn.to/35ydkaE
➤Respirator Mask: amzn.to/3NJh1vC
➤Tyvek Suit: amzn.to/38pkzTu
Alternative peel-and-stick Products:
➤Kilmat (80mil): amzn.to/3jkYPKO
➤Noico (80mil): amzn.to/3KrbhUY
➤More Options: amzn.to/3vag5bc
➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=explorist_bb67
➤Binge the Transit Van Build: • The Ultimate Camper Va...
Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
➤DIY Sprinter Camper Van Electrical Install - Full Tutorial: • DIY Sprinter Camper Va...
➤DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
➤How to Perform a Power Audit: • How Much Solar Power D...
➤Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut...
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➤How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir... - Авто та транспорт
To avoid the video based audio challenges I would suggest using a decibel meter in the future. Same tests. Same positions for everything. Pre and post decibel readings with sound deadening.
We covered our Transit interior with Kilmat. However, just doing soundproofing in whatever way, is worth it.
We also ran tests with a decibel meter.
The numbers were definitely better, but it’s hard to explain the difference in sound. I think just looking at decibel meter and looking at numbers can be deceiving and some would say it did not make that much of a difference. Also, how a camera "hears" sound, is quite different from how our ears perceive the sound. So demonstrating the sound difference via a video is very difficult and not really convincing to listeners.
But how the Transit walls respond to air noise and bumps was a significant difference and a difference that was for the good. And then once we added in the framing and insulation and shiplap, our transit became quite quiet.
As a matter of fact, we feel that it is quieter than our dodge grand caravan. People need to not overlook really going after sound deadening. The so-called rule of thumb about only covering 25% of the walls I think is very misleading. The cost of a little more sound editing and the minimal weight should not be a worry, but so many people make comments about it on UA-cam and they really don’t know what they’re talking about. At least that’s what I think! I see it as a "false economy" kind of thing - you might save a little money, but it will cost you after in comfort - sound quietness - for rest of the time with your van.
Great video information. Looking forward to the next episode. Thanks Don
Loving the tag team presenting between you both! I enjoyed the different perspectives between you on your thoughts about the product. I think the effect was most pronounced in the difference it made on the roof panels. The support ribs on the side of the van probably already attenuate the sound on those panels so it didn't sound that different, but the roof was definitely night and day. I get the feeling that the Kilmat solution is like an 80% solution that'll allow you to get most of the way there, but has shortcomings, but the Lizard Skin is more of a complete solution that requires significantly more effort. With unlimited time and budget, it sounds like a great option, but for most DIY consumers, it might be overkill. It'd be interesting to see the difference in the cab if you go with Kilmat in there.
Great video wrap for the series. Thanks for doing this. You are correct, the difference doesn't come through on video, but you both do a great job of conveying the impact. BTW, I really enjoy having you both participate. Its nice to have honest, but sometimes slightly differing, comparatives. Comes across very natural and true. Well done!!
Hey Matt, Thanks so much! Cheers!
I installated, both the sound and the ceramic Lizard Skin, in our ambulance conversion. My main concerns were 1) vapor barrier and 2) insulation. I sprayed closed cell spray foam in between the ribs and directly over the Lizard Skin. Then we went out in the freezing temperatures, slept in miserable conditions, and looked for any condensation on the non spray foamed ribs. We didn’t notice any! The ceramic Lizard Skin is a great thermal break, for what it is. In the 120 degree Arizona sun, I couldn’t touch the bare aluminum skin or ribs with my bare hand. After I installed the ceramic Lizard Skin, it dropped the surface temperatures by 10 to 15 degrees. It’s definitely not a substitute for insulation, but it does make a huge difference. To be honest; I would, absolutely, invest the time and money on the Lizard Skin, and use a non spray foam insulation.
Thank you for taking your time doing the comparison.
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Thanks, this was very informative.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Before I watch the video, I want to say thanks! I am getting a MB crew van in a few weeks and I have been on the fence about the sc LS.
I have found that it works really well to glue Polyiso foam insulation using Gaps and Cracks spray foam to the large flat panel sections of a van build. I then use Thinsulite in the corners and hard to reach areas. It insulates really well (R7 per inch) and it does a significant amount of sound deadening at the same time. My best guess is the sound deadening of polyiso is very close to the Lizard skin.
I know this segment was only for sound deadening but lizard skin has more benefits if you can afford it. You’ve missed another pro. Less metal exposed to rust. Very informative vlog once again guys. Cheers from Canader eh!
They don't usually rust from the inside... which is where they sprayed the lizard skin.
@@Stubones999 if moisture gets in and it’s metal it will rust. I’ve seen plenty.
@@Stubones999
Absolutely not true! This is exactly how they rust. Condensation is created on the inside of the skin and if there is any exposed steel (screw holes etc) then the rust starts immediately.
Given that lizards are generally a pretty quiet bunch, I’m not surprised that the Lizard Skin was a big help with the sound deadening. Having said that, you probably should caution people not to go around thumping lizards just to see how much noise they make. 😀
🤣😂🤣
guys, I'm loving what your are creating here. I also live in CO, in one of the remotest towns in the San Juans, and I'm two hours from the nearest HD. Where the heck are you?
A lil less in reverberation. So did we get ripped off? ) Are we installing more? so a coat of something else? will we have another coat of something after that?
For the next video please use a decibel meter so we can “see” the difference because it was very difficult, if not impossible, to hear much difference in the video, which may not be a fair representation of the performance of the product.
You missed what I think is the biggest benefit of all to Lizardskin. When you paint the sound deadener as opposed to sticking it onto the skin you eliminate any chance of moisture creeping under the stick-on sheets which will eventually cause rust to form.
The biggest benefit of Lizardskin and sprayfoam (aside from having 2x the R value) is that you completely eliminate pockets and gaps where moisture and condensation can form to start the rust process.
The Lizardskin heat product reflects heat but it also acts as an anti-condensation coating. By adhering spray foam directly to that you make it much more difficult for condensation to form, which is the necessary ingredient in rust formation.
Nate, Do you think the Lizard Skin would help prevent rusting from the inside?
Nate without a hat on!!!
Thank you for making these videos! I wonder how much weight each gallon (of LizardSkin sound-deadening and insulation) adds to the weight when it dries up?
I haven't seen anyone doing it, but a perfect solution would be to layer LizardSkin sound-deadening, then LizardSkin insulation coats, and then spray-foaming on top of those. Or maybe, LizardSkin sound-deadening, then spray-foaming, and then LizardSkin insulation layer, before adding the walling. Apart from slim risk of warping, what are your thoughts on layering LizardSkin products with sprayfoaming???
Also wondering if the effects would improve if the van exterior was also sprayed with LizardSkin sound-deadening, LizardSkin insulation and Raptor for the desired colour.
Thanks for sharin
You bet! Thanks for watching :)
It seems to me the sound deadening spray would also help cut down on condensation from heat transfer better than peel and stick style type because it’s more thorough.
Agreed!
I wonder if manufacturers would consider spray on sound deadening at the factory as an option...seems like the place to do it....and there is a big enough market of camper people who would opt for it.....
i couldn't believe the difference with 3 inches of spray foam. I feel like im in a recording booth
Yay for the bigger compressor... Haha!
You know it!😂😀
Have you used Rockwool before? It is spun lava and steel and it will not light ... under 1,000 degrees.
Would it be possible to modify the respearater with a beer straw? !:- )
Did you notice the difference in the before sound test between the back panels and the front? The front had a lot more of that metallic ringing sound. That's because, on Ford Transits, most of the panels in the back are attached with foam glue underneath all of the ribs. There's very little metal to metal contact. That foam glue kills a lot of the sound. The front panel is attached metal to metal with no ribs. So the results were a lot better on the front than in the back.
Great video mate, as always 👍
Hope you don't mind me asking but do you really spray this to a thickness of 40mm? That's over an inch and a half thick just for sound deadening.
4mm would seem more in the ball park, that's about 0.15 (or 5/32) inches.
Perhaps it's just getting lost in translation (I'm in the UK) or perhaps there's a rogue decimal place somewhere 🤔
@@jacquesbourne9203 Ah, OK. Thank you.
In the UK we refer to mm as mils. We do still use inches as well, unlike most of Europe, but less commonly nowadays and we tend to talk about thousandth of an inch rather than mils.
Would be interesting to hear difference after full interior build.
I'll see what I can do! Thanks for watching. 🙂😁
@@EXPLORISTlife Yes, that would be interresting. I did the matt option. I regret it. For all this extra weight, I don't think it is worth it. I could not really hear any noticeable difference. Maybe floor and roof (for when raining if you don't have solar panels). I haven't finished my build but weight is also an important factor.
IMHO, sound deadening is for road noise in the front and ambient noise in the back.I don't think tapping test has real world relevance, unless one is prepping for sleeping while going through a car wash. I do think the road noise test is relevant but only if the cabin is curtained off from the back or the back is filled with "furniture" because an empty van will always cause more sound. And I do think comparing sound while parked, outside AND inside to see if one can sleep while sound is outside and passers by can hear you inside (cayoties howling or van lifers partying) - but again, better with furniture inside.
The Lizard skin heat control product would be something I would be interested in. While sound deadening doesn't rely on every square inch, insulation does and compared to Thinsulate and other insulators, I would think Lizard skin heat control product would cover all surfaces AND heat bridges.
Finally, yours are the BEST video's on van conversions. Your presentation is calm and clear (you don't yell at the camera), no drama or needless theatrics. You get to the point, are well organized and comprehensive. Kudos.
Tapping has a bit of relevance if you are sleeping while it’s rain hard outside. So I think we really just need to spray the roof. Kilmer would’ve be equally effective in this regard and is cheaper. I’d go with Kilmat for sound deadening and lizard skin for insulation.
@@angeljia3506 Don't forget the hale stones :-D
Commented to early. Didn't know there was a second coat of ceramic insulation.
it seems like if you don't put a bulkhead (between the cab and cargo area) the whole sound deadening effort is negated.
I would disagree that it's completely negated. A well insulated bulkhead would probably work 'better' but I wouldn't say that's the only option.
Did you forget the time it took to scuff the surfaces to then apply skin?
Cleaning, masking, taping, scuffing, etc was all considered 'prep-work' like we were talking about.
@@EXPLORISTlife That maybe where kilmat wins, clean and stick...But I do like the Lizard skin idea.
The cleanup and mess from the Lizard skin was definitely, by far, the biggest negative of the project.
why would someone choose a Transit over a Sprinter?? Honestly unsure of the why, thanks.
My reasoning for a Transit over a Sprinter is the availability of maintenance facilities, at 6' 2" I can sleep sideways without flairs, idling the engine won't clog up the particulate filter, issues with DEF heater and the entire emissions. The only down side to the Transit is the Sprinter looks great whereas the Transit looks like a panda bear. Some creative vinyl wraps on the front end should help in the looks department.
I wish you could compare the after lizard skin with after killmat, and then evaluate cost/labor/performance. To my ears, the Lizard-skin after is not worth the extra cost, prep, or results, especially if killmat is anywhere near as good.
I think our final opinion is that if you were going to do the Ceramic Insulation... you may as well do the Sound Control. If you weren't going to do the Ceramic Insulation... the Kilmat (or similar) would yield similar performance with less work (or at least 'more pleasant' work).
No temperature comparison?
Yep! In the upcoming video reviewing the ceramic insulation.
I would’ve used dynamat
Can you still do spray foam insulation on top of the lizard skin
No reason to. Spray foam insulation does the same thing lizard skin does for sound deadening. May even be better with how thick it would get.
@@CPRebels21 lizard skin isnt proper insulation. You would not be happy with lizard skin during a Canadian winter. Spray foam def the way to go if youre looking for best insulation
@@isaacwesterback4499 Maybe the wording of my comment was confusing. I was saying spray foam provides equal or better sound deadening than lizard skin. I also know that the lizard skin that is advertised as "insulation" isn't even rated as such. You'd be much better of with spray foam than many insulation approaches for vans.
Keep in mind that there is a pretty high chance of spray foam warping the body panels as it cures causing ripples on the outside of the van. This was the main reason we did not go that route as the risk was too great for us.
That’s what I’m planning to do but I’m only planning to put the lizard skin sound deadener on the sheet metal skin, not all over the entire interior. The benefit fit of this approach IMO is that there aren’t any gaps or pockets where potential moisture can be trapped.
Lizard skin? Similar to raptor liner, lineX, stuff?
Not quite, no.
@@EXPLORISTlife advertised as for interior dampening. Would it have worked better if sound deadening foam was used first before spraying the lizard skin... Or that would have defeated the sole purpose?
Not much difference
That didn’t sound bad
gteat stuff!
great stuff guys!
Also you are insulating the van. No thermal bridging.
Yep! Will be inulating with Ceramic Insulation and 3M Thinsulate (or similar).
You might to rent a Db meter.
Our camera has a DB meter on it. The difference was very minimal as stated in the video. 👍
Do you think Lizard Skin will keep it cooler in the summer?
That’s what the heat product is for which they are applying in the next video.
Spoiler alert for all your dog owners. When he does the tapping test on the inside of the van it made my dog start barking thinking someone was at the door
🤣😂🤣 Grace's dog, Levi, was doing the same while she was editing.
12 gallons? That's a lot of excess weight.
Only 100 lbs or so.
My opinion is that this is a useless money and time wasting exercise.
The only sound attenuation that matters is when the panels and cabinets are installed. I believe spraying this on the walls will have negligible effect on sound in the final fit and finish.
Even if this product works, it should be compared to sound testing using the spray insulation applied in a later video. My bet is the spray insulation will provide at least as much sound control. About the only possible application for this product would be if it is applied standalone without any additional interior finishing.
I’ll bet if you were to do another van conversion this step would be eliminated
Opinion recorded.