Pete, The Hi-Flow catalytic would have been better closer to turbo. The heat from it might be too mucho for the transmission and floor....OEM has some heat sheilding up where the OEM part was bolted up. Just heads up. Enjoying the build!! SUPRA BABY!!!
Tip for polishing the exhaust for the future. Use “0000” steel wool and it will take away the junk without wrecking the finish like scotch brute pads do! Keep up the great work guys 👍🏻
fun fact: aircraft piston engines have a valve that mixes fuel into the oil! this is because when its below freezing, the oil is so thick it doesn't move, so you have to dilute it
This is true. However, very few aircraft recip. engines have that valve. The theory is the fuel will boil off once the engine gets hot enough. Also, aviation engines use very old school oil, usually just straight mineral oil, combine that with 20w50 and its not a fun time.
So they never got wind of synthetic 0W oils and how effortlessly they stay in a pumpable state well below freezing? I once put 0w30 in a freezer it was crazy cold like almost -30 Celsius and it was still liquid it felt a bit thick but Im confident an engine would have been able to build oil pressure pretty quickly even at -30 with that oil.
If it's sat for awhile clean and flow test the injectors and voltage test all the coils. Also would do a fuel filter and test fuel pressure to make sure the pump isn't getting weak.
i'd inspect the injector plug and ignition coil plug for the non-firing cylinder very closely. I think you said it was cylinder #1 - it may be an additional 1 or 2 cylinders.
I was just selling my wife that. If I can be a coffee fetcher or expert tire pressure checker for a motogp race team, as a job and get paid. On the opposite side I work a boring job so I can pay for the cars and moto's that bring me joy. :)
I really appreciate the 4k content guy's , you're almost the only automotive creator that I know who render in 4k and I love it ! Love your work as always to 🔥
Uh oh. I feel a compression and leak-down test coming. Seems like you guys already did one on one of these engines but there are so many projects floating around I've lost track lol
My Rav4 3.5 had an ignition coil die not long ago between parking at work and leaving hours later. Rough idle, traction disabled lights and it felt like the engine was going to fall out it ran so poorly. Got it home and 30mins later it was running smooth again. Then I ordered 5 more lol
From my experience, working on a lot 2jz and Rbs sometimes when the spark plugs are fouled cleaning them won't always work, simply putting new plugs in will do the job
2jz’s can be finicky when coil plug wires aren’t the correct way around which could be a possibility after replacing broken coil connectors. It is true they can go either way but have been known to cause misses at times. Another thing to be aware of is the “legs” of the coil crack and can arc against the head causing a miss. Some heat shrink over the legs can be a possible fix. I’ve also had an issue with a dodgy connections within the connector of the ignitor, appeared to be completely fine but one pin wasn’t connecting well, a slight adjustment with a pick helped the contact and the miss disappeared. As mentioned in other comments, leaking capacitors within the ECU are a common fault but definitely repairable. Obviously possible causes are plentiful, just some I’ve run into on my supras over the years… Love the videos guys, I started to watch with the LS and E39, big fan of both of those then you hit me with a Supra and I’m all in! Thank you!
If my 7M-GTE has taught me anything, cam timing. The 7M Cam Position Sensor in particular is very finicky and even if it's off by 1 tooth (which it can easily shift as you put the gear in), will result in idle issues. My guess is the JZ engines may be similar in that regard. So either CPS (Cam Position Sensor) or TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). If either (or both) are out of adjustment, issues will crop up.
cool vid. one thing, that coolant leak down test did not show the crack in my E92 rad because it only leaked when it was hot. I imagine that is probably the same for most slow leaks.
Just finished a Skid Factory episode here in Oz. Turn earbuds off. Time for sleep. Speed Academy notification pops up.. Awww shietttttttt. Here we go again.
You should put a little piece of metal in front of the Cat, from pipe to Cat..to be a "slider plate". If you're running a car on coilovers I would say this is a must! Don't ask me how I know :D
A 0w-30 would definitely provide better startup protection than a 10w. The only reason manufacturers recommended things like 10w-30 back in the day is because that's the best technology that existed lol. The lowest cold viscosity you can get is always better because it allows quicker and easier pickup by the pump, especially in winter obviously. Toss that factory recommendation out the window and broaden your viscosity spectrum!
I mean you can play a lot with the first digit since it basically specifies the cold flow ability. Im in favor of something like a fully synthetic 0w40 for a boosted 2JZ and 10w40 as a summer oil or racing oil. The thing is 10w30 will be thicker than a 0w30 at room temp (the spec sheets list viscosity specs at 40c and 100c look at those numbers) or well when the engine isn't warmed up the reason why they spec a 10w30 is probably internal tolerances and you usually have a smoother valvetrain that's better lubed with a 10wX oil than a 0wX oil. That's why the standard heavy duty diesel oil viscosity is usually 15w40: They are pretty "loose" engines comparted to small car engines so the need that 15wX to make up for that.
I run 3 gesi cats on my 6.2 Yukon. 2 came with my kook's long tube headers. I had a 3rd from a failed build so slapped it in. They're not as good as stock but flow much more. Better than nothing and 49 state legal. :-)
No Exhaust expert but I Tink you installed the cat in the Wong spot? Maybe higher and closer to the turbo dump... and away from transmission sump.... This might reduce the heat from the transmission and increase your lowest point under the body. Just saying 🤷♂️
Plug temperature has nothing to do with cold starting or any other performance issue except for preignition if you run too hot a plug when boosting the engine. The temperature rating of the plug is to do with self cleaning . A too cold a plug may become dirty and cause preignition due to the soot acting as an ignition source. A hot plug will burn off the soot but may have the electrode get too hot and cause preignition. You run colder plugs in boosted engines as they are more prone to preignition
I hope it is the coils. Also if you are running the stock ecu, the capacitors might be leaking due to the old age and cause similar issue. Known to happen on stock old ecus.
@17:12 and 17:21 i noticed your dash light on and the traction/snow light is blinking. My car cuts power when/if it senses a tire lose traction so try turning the traction control off. If the car drives fine after that, you have some sort of traction sensor issue.
@@117gerardle mine will only blink if TC is ON and the car senses traction loss. It's not a check engine light that will display for my car, but it will also display a (!) in the dash like i think their car is displaying in the video. Similar to when a door is not fully closed you know? Either way i love these videos.
You guys NEED to get a product called OSPHO to clean up dirty and surface rusted parts. It works amazingly well on stainless exhaust bits. Obsessed Garage sells it and has some good demo videos on it.
I've found ACME battery on Parkdale to have the best prices. Also I have a 3" hi flow magnaflow cat bnib free for anyone who needs it in the Hamilton area
Without the backpressure the wastegates cannot keep up and cause an overboost condition. Its very common on these cars. You’ll see in the next episode.
Can you describe how the High Zinc engine oil is good and better for the weekend at the track. Then going back to oil you use normally? How did you come to this result? Do you flush engine between different oil being used?
Would like to know where everybody is getting their intake manifold from? My 94 is a non turbo, the intake manifold is shapped like a horseshoe and throttle body sits above the plug wires and valve cover. I think it would be a cleaner setup if i can get my hands on a side posted throttle body and shorter intake manifold.
@@jza80king that’s a old school way of avoiding boost spike. (Using a smaller down pipe) with a modern stand alone ECU and electronic boost control this isn’t an issue.
@@violinmiata why would you run a smaller dp than what they installed which is a 3in diameter? I think the stock dp was 2.5in which is super restrictive. And yeah I know that's true but what's the cheapest standalone ECU and EBC cost? Even used they are $$$$.... There's way cheaper ways to control boost specifically with turbo Supras. I personally have a shimmed wastgate and actuator mod and i run consistent 16-17lbs on my stock USDM turbos all with a 3in diameter dp.
@@jza80king I agree that bigger is better with exhausts. Mega squirt is pretty cheap these days, not sure if that’s a common Supra ecu or not. More of my money got spent on tuning labor than the computer the last time I went through that process on my Miata. Happy boosting to you and your Supra!
@@violinmiata I'll say this, the availability of tuning may determine what/if any standalone you go with. I personally dunno anyone who uses megasquirt in my neck of the woods. But that's just because most of the tuners in my area are more comfortable/knowledgeable with proEFI or AEM. Megasquirt is a good option though.
@@jza80king Thats bullshit, get a better boost controller or gate or something. You dont control boost with backpressure lmao motoiq.com/turbo-tech-internal-vs-external-wastegates/3/ motoiq.com/turbo-tech-size-matters-part-2/
@@BeeBeefy you still haven't answered my question.... When did i say back pressure controls boost? The edit i made was to say "you are right back pressure is not good for turbos"
![Best Synthetic Oils in [2025 ] Top 5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HRludZZe_uY/mqdefault.jpg)
I love that you guys show the mistakes and headaches and not just the highlights.
Agree totally 💯, everyone learns from honest mistakes and oversight. Good on Speed Academy
Pete, The Hi-Flow catalytic would have been better closer to turbo. The heat from it might be too mucho for the transmission and floor....OEM has some heat sheilding up where the OEM part was bolted up. Just heads up. Enjoying the build!! SUPRA BABY!!!
Tip for polishing the exhaust for the future. Use “0000” steel wool and it will take away the junk without wrecking the finish like scotch brute pads do! Keep up the great work guys 👍🏻
fun fact: aircraft piston engines have a valve that mixes fuel into the oil! this is because when its below freezing, the oil is so thick it doesn't move, so you have to dilute it
This is true. However, very few aircraft recip. engines have that valve. The theory is the fuel will boil off once the engine gets hot enough. Also, aviation engines use very old school oil, usually just straight mineral oil, combine that with 20w50 and its not a fun time.
So they never got wind of synthetic 0W oils and how effortlessly they stay in a pumpable state well below freezing?
I once put 0w30 in a freezer it was crazy cold like almost -30 Celsius and it was still liquid it felt a bit thick but Im confident an engine would have been able to build oil pressure pretty quickly even at -30 with that oil.
Nothing better to start the day than a good cup of joe and SA episode!!
Agreed!
After you adjust the idle on a 2jz you must adjust the TPS and measure it with an ohmmeter.
The red supra with the LMs looks so good in the back.
Can't disagree. It totally caught my eye there at the end, but I'm also bias as the first Supra I grew to love was in red.
If it's sat for awhile clean and flow test the injectors and voltage test all the coils. Also would do a fuel filter and test fuel pressure to make sure the pump isn't getting weak.
Fuel System is too often overlooked!! This!!!
i'd inspect the injector plug and ignition coil plug for the non-firing cylinder very closely. I think you said it was cylinder #1 - it may be an additional 1 or 2 cylinders.
I agree with this. Double check those plug wires.
1\2JZ can have coil problems, they are getting up in age. 25+ year old coils.
You guys are really lucky to have the opportunity to work on such cars
Keep the nice work going on
I was just selling my wife that. If I can be a coffee fetcher or expert tire pressure checker for a motogp race team, as a job and get paid. On the opposite side I work a boring job so I can pay for the cars and moto's that bring me joy. :)
I really appreciate the 4k content guy's , you're almost the only automotive creator that I know who render in 4k and I love it ! Love your work as always to 🔥
these vids are the only reason why Im always behind in my work hahahhaa, looking forward for the new video, hoping the best for the Supra
Made me so happy to see that old HKS Exhaust cleaned up
Uh oh. I feel a compression and leak-down test coming. Seems like you guys already did one on one of these engines but there are so many projects floating around I've lost track lol
Cylinder balance test. Obd1 diagnosis at its best
My Rav4 3.5 had an ignition coil die not long ago between parking at work and leaving hours later. Rough idle, traction disabled lights and it felt like the engine was going to fall out it ran so poorly. Got it home and 30mins later it was running smooth again. Then I ordered 5 more lol
I like seeing the headaches and difficulties behind these builds. Keep up guys! Loving this series.
From my experience, working on a lot 2jz and Rbs sometimes when the spark plugs are fouled cleaning them won't always work, simply putting new plugs in will do the job
2jz’s can be finicky when coil plug wires aren’t the correct way around which could be a possibility after replacing broken coil connectors. It is true they can go either way but have been known to cause misses at times.
Another thing to be aware of is the “legs” of the coil crack and can arc against the head causing a miss. Some heat shrink over the legs can be a possible fix.
I’ve also had an issue with a dodgy connections within the connector of the ignitor, appeared to be completely fine but one pin wasn’t connecting well, a slight adjustment with a pick helped the contact and the miss disappeared.
As mentioned in other comments, leaking capacitors within the ECU are a common fault but definitely repairable.
Obviously possible causes are plentiful, just some I’ve run into on my supras over the years…
Love the videos guys, I started to watch with the LS and E39, big fan of both of those then you hit me with a Supra and I’m all in! Thank you!
Im loving these 90's toyota supras....my v8 swapped 91 mr2 would look nice parked next to them
Love watching these guys taking care and rebuilding the legend cars
If my 7M-GTE has taught me anything, cam timing.
The 7M Cam Position Sensor in particular is very finicky and even if it's off by 1 tooth (which it can easily shift as you put the gear in), will result in idle issues.
My guess is the JZ engines may be similar in that regard.
So either CPS (Cam Position Sensor) or TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). If either (or both) are out of adjustment, issues will crop up.
Was that Ken helping out polishing the exhaust? I miss that dude!
Edit: confirmed
So great to see Ken!
I happy to see dedication in your work SA 🙂
Check the cam timing on the cam gears and convert to 1ZZ coils, the stockers are known for cracking due to age and causing misfire issues
Great project, the black one looks so good! Looking forward to proper wheels, fresh paint and interior, and of course the engine running smoothly!
when are you guys going back to the track? Are you guys done reviewing cars on the track. Those are the real reason I subscribed
you guys are super awesome and good team players. great job guys
cool vid. one thing, that coolant leak down test did not show the crack in my E92 rad because it only leaked when it was hot. I imagine that is probably the same for most slow leaks.
Good stuff y’all ! Keep up the good work ! Love to see the new videos ! Thanks for all the kick ass content !
Just finished a Skid Factory episode here in Oz. Turn earbuds off. Time for sleep. Speed Academy notification pops up.. Awww shietttttttt. Here we go again.
Does anybody else wait until the very minute of the release of speed academy videos? 😂
No
I do , my favorite auto channel
Yes
Stainless Wire wool doesn’t scratch stainless steel and is great to clean and polish trips and pipes 👍
Something about the way a black Supra looks from behind is a very special feeling.
You should put a little piece of metal in front of the Cat, from pipe to Cat..to be a "slider plate". If you're running a car on coilovers I would say this is a must! Don't ask me how I know :D
Jeeze this unit would look great in my driveway in Savannah, Ga! Keep the great content coming! 💪 💯
nice to see someone else in savannah lol
check the injectors. the cylinder with a clean plug the injector might not be opening or have restricted flow causing the misfire.
A 0w-30 would definitely provide better startup protection than a 10w. The only reason manufacturers recommended things like 10w-30 back in the day is because that's the best technology that existed lol. The lowest cold viscosity you can get is always better because it allows quicker and easier pickup by the pump, especially in winter obviously. Toss that factory recommendation out the window and broaden your viscosity spectrum!
I mean you can play a lot with the first digit since it basically specifies the cold flow ability.
Im in favor of something like a fully synthetic 0w40 for a boosted 2JZ and 10w40 as a summer oil or racing oil.
The thing is 10w30 will be thicker than a 0w30 at room temp (the spec sheets list viscosity specs at 40c and 100c look at those numbers) or well when the engine isn't warmed up the reason why they spec a 10w30 is probably internal tolerances and you usually have a smoother valvetrain that's better lubed with a 10wX oil than a 0wX oil.
That's why the standard heavy duty diesel oil viscosity is usually 15w40: They are pretty "loose" engines comparted to small car engines so the need that 15wX to make up for that.
Cams on a stock ecu doesn’t work well.
Make sure the ECU caps aren’t leaking either.
I run 3 gesi cats on my 6.2 Yukon. 2 came with my kook's long tube headers. I had a 3rd from a failed build so slapped it in. They're not as good as stock but flow much more. Better than nothing and 49 state legal. :-)
No Exhaust expert but I Tink you installed the cat in the Wong spot?
Maybe higher and closer to the turbo dump... and away from transmission sump.... This might reduce the heat from the transmission and increase your lowest point under the body.
Just saying 🤷♂️
Plug temperature has nothing to do with cold starting or any other performance issue except for preignition if you run too hot a plug when boosting the engine.
The temperature rating of the plug is to do with self cleaning . A too cold a plug may become dirty and cause preignition due to the soot acting as an ignition source. A hot plug will burn off the soot but may have the electrode get too hot and cause preignition. You run colder plugs in boosted engines as they are more prone to preignition
adjust idle screw and calibrate the throttle position sensor
I hope it is the coils. Also if you are running the stock ecu, the capacitors might be leaking due to the old age and cause similar issue. Known to happen on stock old ecus.
Nice work! You guys are making me want to buy a Supra!
The ignition coil connectors tend to go bad maybe have a look at that and replace them.
Obsessed garage did a video about some chemical called "Ospho" for cleaning exhausts. Give it a look for the next time you need to clean one up
Try some steel wool 000 to clean the chrome bits on the exhaust
I love my airlift coolant tool also. Well worth the money.
@17:12 and 17:21 i noticed your dash light on and the traction/snow light is blinking. My car cuts power when/if it senses a tire lose traction so try turning the traction control off. If the car drives fine after that, you have some sort of traction sensor issue.
@@117gerardle mine will only blink if TC is ON and the car senses traction loss. It's not a check engine light that will display for my car, but it will also display a (!) in the dash like i think their car is displaying in the video. Similar to when a door is not fully closed you know? Either way i love these videos.
Loving the slow-mo more than sped up parts
Heck yea! The Supra sounds great!
Good to see Ken, are we going to get an update on his RX7 ?
You guys NEED to get a product called OSPHO to clean up dirty and surface rusted parts. It works amazingly well on stainless exhaust bits. Obsessed Garage sells it and has some good demo videos on it.
I bought that airlift system last time you used it. Works great, thanks!
Ken Wagon car update coming soon? been missing seeing that beauty.
nice Ken cameo lol
how is his RX7 doing? that car was so rad, would love to see it again on a video.
Maybe you need some cam gear adjustment for the cams?
Loving the Supra build but I cant wait for the R34 to come!
I've found ACME battery on Parkdale to have the best prices. Also I have a 3" hi flow magnaflow cat bnib free for anyone who needs it in the Hamilton area
Brasso brass polish would get that muffler some shine
Iam loving this series :D
Thank you for making videos more often
I've never had much luck with those SSQV bov's. Even the authentic ones tend to leak.
@9:49 Wow that exhaust really cleaned up nicely guys well done.
Still curious why you guys put back the charcoal cannister O_o
im guessing to keep it legal
Yay Ken sighting!!!
Kennnnnnnnnnnnnnn 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀 🤘 loving the content guys! 👌
Nice work, guys.
Oh damn, the Nurse makes an appearance!!!!
I can't decide whether I feel bad for this Supra or for the donor Red one...
The donor red Supra is being built with different parts so rather than disposing the OEM ones, they are using it on another car.
Yooo this is the earliest in I’ve ever been to a video. 8seconds:))
Should send in some oil samples to Blackstone and get some oil analysis done.
keep er up boys! coil is my guess!
You mentioned turbos need back pressure, but doing some research everyone else is saying it's always bad. Can you expand on this?
Without the backpressure the wastegates cannot keep up and cause an overboost condition. Its very common on these cars. You’ll see in the next episode.
@@speedacademy Thanks for replying. Looking forward to the next video.👍
Only thing missing is an NSX. I heard PZ wanted to rice his up ;)
Should have kept the BBS wheels.. it looked tuff before.
Check the coil packs and fuel pump
that right front tyre is oriented wrong, well until you changed the wheels
you should put ngk spark plugs
A true recycler uses his old Nike sock to clean up coolant. Way to go Pete.
Does this generation of supra not have a diagnostic port? Being able to see map values and log misfire counts per cylinder would be very helpful now
Obd1
Can you describe how the High Zinc engine oil is good and better for the weekend at the track. Then going back to oil you use normally? How did you come to this result? Do you flush engine between different oil being used?
Nice to see that Captain De-Cat won't be kicking Speed Academy in the nuts
CLR & scotchbrite removes rust stains
is that Ken polishing the pipe?
Crank angle sensor? I just replaced mine as it was intermittent.
Would like to know where everybody is getting their intake manifold from? My 94 is a non turbo, the intake manifold is shapped like a horseshoe and throttle body sits above the plug wires and valve cover. I think it would be a cleaner setup if i can get my hands on a side posted throttle body and shorter intake manifold.
I have a misfire in my 93 vw corrado and I'm worried it might be wiring
Ok
@@andremartiniuskalstadtjosa1309 I had changed sparkplugs and cleaned the intake manifold and still a misfire
Ok
@@adamhonda98 you have the vr6 engine?
@@Terrorhorst1986 yes I do
Every passenger car i drove with a misalignment had the traction icon on the dash. I can only assume it's similar for this supra
my rav4 turns on the traction control light when the check engine light is on.
@@117gerardle i get vsc off and trac off lights actually with check engine
@@117gerardle i dont even know what it is
I run 0w20 on my 4G63 Evo7 24/7 and it's near 300K. That 2JZ would have been fine. In fact, I think it would have been better.
Protip: use steel wool on chrome, it won't scratch like 3M abrasive pads are designed to do.
Check injectors, fuel pressure and coils...
Turbos do not like back pressure
Great build!
You can overboost the turbos in the Supra is what I think he meant to say. The "back pressure" prevents that.
@@jza80king that’s a old school way of avoiding boost spike. (Using a smaller down pipe) with a modern stand alone ECU and electronic boost control this isn’t an issue.
@@violinmiata why would you run a smaller dp than what they installed which is a 3in diameter? I think the stock dp was 2.5in which is super restrictive. And yeah I know that's true but what's the cheapest standalone ECU and EBC cost? Even used they are $$$$.... There's way cheaper ways to control boost specifically with turbo Supras. I personally have a shimmed wastgate and actuator mod and i run consistent 16-17lbs on my stock USDM turbos all with a 3in diameter dp.
@@jza80king I agree that bigger is better with exhausts. Mega squirt is pretty cheap these days, not sure if that’s a common Supra ecu or not. More of my money got spent on tuning labor than the computer the last time I went through that process on my Miata. Happy boosting to you and your Supra!
@@violinmiata I'll say this, the availability of tuning may determine what/if any standalone you go with. I personally dunno anyone who uses megasquirt in my neck of the woods. But that's just because most of the tuners in my area are more comfortable/knowledgeable with proEFI or AEM. Megasquirt is a good option though.
I approve of Dave polishing his pipe.
This series is just making me want a Supra so bad
Just when I was thinking "would be nice to watch a SA video" it was released 1 minute ago
I MISS KEN
Did they put ceramic twins in this car??
I’d start with the coil leads
Wait what. Turbos need back pressure? Gotta be kiddin me. That turbo is the back pressure lol
You can overboost the turbos is what I think he meant.... Not back pressure cuz you are right, back pressure is not good for turbos.
@@jza80king Thats bullshit, get a better boost controller or gate or something. You dont control boost with backpressure lmao motoiq.com/turbo-tech-internal-vs-external-wastegates/3/ motoiq.com/turbo-tech-size-matters-part-2/
@@BeeBeefy when did i ever say that? I never said that. I have a boost controller so stop assuming shit.
@@jza80king lol nice comment edit.
@@BeeBeefy you still haven't answered my question.... When did i say back pressure controls boost? The edit i made was to say "you are right back pressure is not good for turbos"