Hey SA, If you have an automatic transmission that came with a 7M, 1JZ, or 2JZ, and it starts shifting improperly, the most common cause is the #1 or #2 shift solenoid going bad. These two solenoids together shift the transmission to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. When you take the car to a transmission shop they might say it needs a whole rebuild, when often it is just the shift solenoids failing. It typically begins with a random mis-shift, when you come to a stop it will stay in 2nd and not downshift to 1st, over drive light flashes or stays on or when you take off it will not upshift to 2nd or fall on its face. If you can manually shift the transmission and it goes into the correct gear limp it home and check fluids. As for the over boosting issue is not uncommon to increase with a modified down pipe or larger diameter IC piping. I personally would recommend switching to a true sequential twin set up, having both turbos come online around 3200rpm.Vaccum hoses at rear turbo waste gate tend to leak or melt causing turbo #2 to over boost. This is just to start the diagnostic, Great video guys keep it up.
The guys are putting the car into first, the sporty version of the a340e, if you place it in first or second locks it in that gear, you can be in second and floor it, it will not go down a gear just like if you put it in first you hit limiter all day long that trans has been put in first so it will stay in first until you put it in second.
That grommet was for the clutch master. Toyota and Nissan tended to make all the firewalls for a manual trans and just put rubber grommets in its place for auto equipped chassis’s.
Stock boost is 12 PSI, once you install an aftermarket downpipe, exhaust and intake, boost automatically jumps to 15-18 psi. You basically have a stage 1 B.P.U Supra, or B.P.U.++, since you have the front mount intercooler, cams, and cam gears as well... she's stock, but not stock lol.
I know you guys showed that you looked at the ECU, however maybe even just take a look inside to ensure none of the capacitors are leaking as that can cause odd issues with the way it runs. I know the JZX guys have had issues with leaking capacitors and replacing them fixed the issues.
In my experience, it’s best practice to always mount MAP sensors with the nipple facing down, that way condensation doesn’t fill the sensor and ruin in. Ask me how I know. Flip that sensor right side up and it will last WAY longer
The stock wastegate on JDM turbo setup is not big enough. It starts to boost creep/overboost after removing cats/installing 3 inch exhaust system. The way to fix this is to make restrictor plate with 2 inch hole. (between downpipe and midpipe)
confirm with the stock twins if they are in ttc mode or sequential, you change this by how you plumb the vacuum. Could help with the sluggishness downlow
Your in-car diagnosis was a pleasure to behold and there’s no doubt the car will be a lovely sorted example when you’re finished! Keep up the excellent work and thoroughly entertaining videos!
Hey guys, If you guys want to shift the transmission manually you'll have to press the MANU button on the left side of the shifter. If it is in MANU mode it will not down shift on it's own, you'll have to down shift and up shift it.
No you don't that's a lie. When you want to shift to 2nd gear you just go down on the shifter and if you want neutral just place the knob in the the middle and wiggle just to make sure you're in neutral.
Ive been running 17psi on my JDM TT for 5 years now with downpipe, high flow cat into 3", boost controlled by an aem controller, 400whp. No restrictor ring, No turbo ceramic turbo blade issues so far.
My vote is for shift solenoids. Had the same problem recently with my Toyota Celsior which has the same Auto. Symptoms where car shifts fine if you manually shift through the gears. In drive it was always in 4th gear so was really unresponsive. Changing both the shift solenoids resolved all my issues. Can also be capacitors in the ECU. 90's Toyota's suffered from bad capicitors which after 20 odd years start to leak and make a mess. Also forgot to mention my OD light would flash as well. You should be also to scan the ODB port or jump two pins with some wire and pull the codes.
You guys need a 3D printer in your life… ideal for making instrument pods like the one you purchased (which looked like a great idea/product) and other brackets etc 👍
Get an “Ender 3 v2.” Great 3D printer for the money (under $300). It’s open source and modifiable to be an outstanding tool. If you print with something like PETG you should have no problems with melting plastic or anything.
I don't know Toyota but Nissan boxes of that era when you lock out overdrive it would auto downshift and hold gears longer like a rudimentary sports mode. If the overdrive light is flashing that's a sensor issue. You've killed it!
You should look into getting a bidirectional scanner for your shop. I think it would come in handy especially with what you do. I am not saying spend 10k on one but a smaller one around 1k to 1500 would be a good investment. If would let you view sensors, live data misfires, live data on nearly all systems. I personally use an Autel MS908 and personally I think they work great on JDM and European vehicles.
if you want it to stop "boost creeping" you need to get an aftermarket pressure sensor and valve installed that will electronically open its own valve or actuate the blow off valve while maintaining set boot figure... "change the BOV spring... ;P''''''' "
Your videos feel like I'm watching a show from Spike's Power Block. Not sure if that's even a thing anymore. Keep up the good work guys, you 2 make content interesting no matter the type of vehicle you are working on.
the hole that you routed the wires for the gauges is where the clutch master cylinder would go, so if you do a manual swap you'll have to re route the cables.
Did you tee into a vacuum line for the MAP sensor? They work best when they have their own reference port. Could have weird readings when run on a teed off line.
with the overdrive light flashing you can bridge the toyota data connector and get a code. see what you get. when mine was faulting it would not allow me to use overdrive. and shifting was odd. turned out that the wiring loom was missing an earth to the gearbox. this was an a70 supra, but diagnostics and operation relativly the same. make sure you have hooked up the transmission kick down cable and it connected. unless the ecu is not for an auto or that version of engine.
Hey guys. Overdrive on/off is not a problem. There usually is a button on the side of the gear lever to switch the overdrive on/off. It is like a 5th gear on older automatics, mainly used for highway driving.
I know with an aristo 2jzgte if you do too much exhaust work on stock turbos the wastegates cant handle it and it boost creeps, and you can grenade the turbos. I can only assume the supra is the same.
Loving the build. I wouldn't worry about boost creep. 18 lbs isn't hurting the turbo and sure as fuck isn't hurting that tank engine that can handle 30-40lbs stock.👍
so i've gotten into the videos a lot over the past couple months, and watch all the new ones as they come out... but could you guys (or a commnentor) almost do a video guide or something for people to catch up on all your old video/series? maybe sort them by "season" and talk for a minute or two about each one, or which ones are best recommended? I dunno if the youtube algorithm would like it, but I just see so much cool older videos you guys have (that are criminally underviewed) and really don't know where to start!
The OD light flashing, at least with JZX100's and JZZ30's with the vvti can often be the fault of a bad throttle control ECU. This was the case with my JZZ30 late model, where the OD and slip control light would continually flash. A new throttle ECU fixed it.
You don’t tend to see full boost in first gear and sometimes second depending on gearing, the engine rpm acceleration out passes the boost, then in higher gears there is more time for the turbos to make boost.
Sent the turbos to either be rebuilt with steel exhaust wheels or upgrade to gt28 hybrids then the fun begins. Also to cheaply manage boost either port the wastegate and or install an electronic bov to help bleed off boost
Also I promise you that ecu probably been upgraded internally for the fuel/boost cut. You can order a restrictive online also instead of fabricating one
You should keep the black car and do a ZF 8HP (eight speed) auto gearbox swap, there's a company in Poland (I think) called HTG Tuning that does a controller for it.
Did you press the overdrive button on the shifter? pretty sure you gotta be clicking that if you're gunna be shifting like that. Also gotta turn off traction control.
I put a silencer in muffler on mine and it would stay at 13 t 15 range with upgrades to waste gate it can b opened up 2 or 3 mil to stop boost creeping
You may need to run 100-200km until that bad gas clears up entirely. It looks like it pulls power. Both my RHD cars with half tanks of old/new gas did that.
Toyotas of that era would flash the lights on the dash to indicate different issues. There would be a different sequence for low fluid, or low pads etc.
The exclamation mark in the centre of the dash is just a general warning that you have an issue. Owning a Supra you get used to seeing it burning in front of your eyes all the time. It'll be your traction control fault causing it.
Hi Speed Academy, can I recommend you guys 50 Ignite ignition kits they are very good products and will solve all your Ignition problems. and best of all they are made in Australia.
SA going through all the trouble to install a boost and WB gauge while also installing an android head unit that had Torque app installed... making the gauges redundant since the ECU already has both of those data points.🤷♂️
@7:38 okay first of all you can’t say $8X.XX is not expensive for a plastic 3D printed piece like that! That is expensive! No two ways about it I’m sorry don’t talk down prices just say it’s SupraTax and be done with it, that’s a lot of money for a piece of plastic 🤦🏽♂️ @9:01 yeah I got an XTrons double din in my Supra had it for 3 years not it’s been perfect 👍🏽. I first had a glass screen one which felt more premium but now I have a newer model with more ram but the screen is plastic. I miss the premium feel of the glass touch screen over plastic but if you own an A80 Supra this is the perfect style of Doubledin to install. Yo I do have to recess it back a bit on the bracket to fit nicely with the plastic trim but once that’s done it looks like it was meant to be there 👌🏽 Great video guys hopefully you get the over posting issue sorted. The stock turbos can handle 20psi for quite some time 😉
Majority of your faults will be with the ecu and leaking capacitors due to age. Look there first as it resolve a he'll off a lot of problems. From a fellow mk4 supra turbo owner. Save the time and trust me. Thanks
hey, supra run very rich because you didnt change chamshaft to oem and engine have more air that should be in stock, then lambda add some fuel and engine didnt smoke them all and you see behind your richer exhaust gases with unburned fuel
Hey guys. Love your channel. Been following you for a while now. I noticed you've got yourselves an auto mk4. I've got one of them to. Fun fact an m3 dct gearbox bolts on without much trouble and is highly tunable on a haltech standalone. Maybe give it some thought. Could be fun. 🙃🙃🙃
Hey SA, If you have an automatic transmission that came with a 7M, 1JZ, or 2JZ, and it starts shifting improperly, the most common cause is the #1 or #2 shift solenoid going bad. These two solenoids together shift the transmission to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. When you take the car to a transmission shop they might say it needs a whole rebuild, when often it is just the shift solenoids failing. It typically begins with a random mis-shift, when you come to a stop it will stay in 2nd and not downshift to 1st, over drive light flashes or stays on or when you take off it will not upshift to 2nd or fall on its face. If you can manually shift the transmission and it goes into the correct gear limp it home and check fluids. As for the over boosting issue is not uncommon to increase with a modified down pipe or larger diameter IC piping. I personally would recommend switching to a true sequential twin set up, having both turbos come online around 3200rpm.Vaccum hoses at rear turbo waste gate tend to leak or melt causing turbo #2 to over boost. This is just to start the diagnostic, Great video guys keep it up.
The guys are putting the car into first, the sporty version of the a340e, if you place it in first or second locks it in that gear, you can be in second and floor it, it will not go down a gear just like if you put it in first you hit limiter all day long that trans has been put in first so it will stay in first until you put it in second.
An ATF change is never a bad thing, even more if you dont know the service history and you see the car seems to have had a rough life
@@y.b.- it’s a Supra they’ve all ya a rough life
just put it D man
@@summitsvift d doesn’t let you rev the car out if you have cams
That grommet was for the clutch master. Toyota and Nissan tended to make all the firewalls for a manual trans and just put rubber grommets in its place for auto equipped chassis’s.
Stock boost is 12 PSI, once you install an aftermarket downpipe, exhaust and intake, boost automatically jumps to 15-18 psi. You basically have a stage 1 B.P.U Supra, or B.P.U.++, since you have the front mount intercooler, cams, and cam gears as well... she's stock, but not stock lol.
In Cape Town, South Africa we would call this Cape Town stock 😂😂
I know you guys showed that you looked at the ECU, however maybe even just take a look inside to ensure none of the capacitors are leaking as that can cause odd issues with the way it runs. I know the JZX guys have had issues with leaking capacitors and replacing them fixed the issues.
In my experience, it’s best practice to always mount MAP sensors with the nipple facing down, that way condensation doesn’t fill the sensor and ruin in. Ask me how I know. Flip that sensor right side up and it will last WAY longer
The stock wastegate on JDM turbo setup is not big enough. It starts to boost creep/overboost after removing cats/installing 3 inch exhaust system. The way to fix this is to make restrictor plate with 2 inch hole. (between downpipe and midpipe)
came here to say this been here too lol you need the restrictor
@@frankiqc12 No, you go to a single turbo setup and leave the OE mess behind you. 😀
I’d rather weld in a bigger gate *or* parallel gate.
Why bother putting a big exhaust on on it in the first place then?
@@rsporsche you could always recirc it. or maybe port the stock wastegate area
confirm with the stock twins if they are in ttc mode or sequential, you change this by how you plumb the vacuum. Could help with the sluggishness downlow
Your in-car diagnosis was a pleasure to behold and there’s no doubt the car will be a lovely sorted example when you’re finished! Keep up the excellent work and thoroughly entertaining videos!
Love the cliffhangers guys - gives us all something to mull over till the next installment! Keep up the good work.
Hey guys, If you guys want to shift the transmission manually you'll have to press the MANU button on the left side of the shifter. If it is in MANU mode it will not down shift on it's own, you'll have to down shift and up shift it.
No you don't that's a lie. When you want to shift to 2nd gear you just go down on the shifter and if you want neutral just place the knob in the the middle and wiggle just to make sure you're in neutral.
@@frontspring1 it's an auto, mang
@@vinny6_9 autos don't exist in my mind only manuals autos are trash
@@frontspring1 fact
A E clown
Thank you very much for this video guys! I’m just about to install some gauges into my MKIV Supra, so it’s nice to have a great reference!
Ive been running 17psi on my JDM TT for 5 years now with downpipe, high flow cat into 3", boost controlled by an aem controller, 400whp. No restrictor ring, No turbo ceramic turbo blade issues so far.
I think its hit and miss. They could last forever or could grenade in 10km. Ideally 15-16psi seems like a good safe place to be.
Check the codes guys. The on board diagnostics is very useful ... IIRC there are seperate proceedures for engine, trans and climate codes.
I’m really enjoying this series!
My vote is for shift solenoids. Had the same problem recently with my Toyota Celsior which has the same Auto. Symptoms where car shifts fine if you manually shift through the gears. In drive it was always in 4th gear so was really unresponsive. Changing both the shift solenoids resolved all my issues.
Can also be capacitors in the ECU. 90's Toyota's suffered from bad capicitors which after 20 odd years start to leak and make a mess.
Also forgot to mention my OD light would flash as well. You should be also to scan the ODB port or jump two pins with some wire and pull the codes.
Watching PT struggle with that auto was amazing. Those old slush boxes were terrible. Great video.
You guys need a 3D printer in your life… ideal for making instrument pods like the one you purchased (which looked like a great idea/product) and other brackets etc 👍
Those cost a lot tho , right?
@@NotUrDJ compared to many other tools, not really.
@@TJDST4especially compared to the machines in an auto shop lol
Carbon fiber printers are around 4k USD, but you can get away with a 400 USD printer and higher quality filament for heat/chemical resistance
Get an “Ender 3 v2.” Great 3D printer for the money (under $300). It’s open source and modifiable to be an outstanding tool. If you print with something like PETG you should have no problems with melting plastic or anything.
Pete and Dave, these are the cool videos that I think a lot of us love. Cool, technical, and transparent :)
Yeah buddy!
Thank you
I don't know Toyota but Nissan boxes of that era when you lock out overdrive it would auto downshift and hold gears longer like a rudimentary sports mode.
If the overdrive light is flashing that's a sensor issue. You've killed it!
You should look into getting a bidirectional scanner for your shop. I think it would come in handy especially with what you do. I am not saying spend 10k on one but a smaller one around 1k to 1500 would be a good investment. If would let you view sensors, live data misfires, live data on nearly all systems. I personally use an Autel MS908 and personally I think they work great on JDM and European vehicles.
I'm so glad Supra has so many issues. It brings in so much more content to the challenge lol
Thanks for making my Sadderday better.
Wow lol these guys were ripping thru my town, I’ll definitely keep an eye out if you guys are doing test runs lol.
if you want it to stop "boost creeping" you need to get an aftermarket pressure sensor and valve installed that will electronically open its own valve or actuate the blow off valve while maintaining set boot figure... "change the BOV spring... ;P''''''' "
Your videos feel like I'm watching a show from Spike's Power Block. Not sure if that's even a thing anymore. Keep up the good work guys, you 2 make content interesting no matter the type of vehicle you are working on.
the hole that you routed the wires for the gauges is where the clutch master cylinder would go, so if you do a manual swap you'll have to re route the cables.
Don't forget the X-Series gauges have a peak recall function so you don't have to stare at the gauge to see what your peak boost was 👌🏼
19:25
Did you tee into a vacuum line for the MAP sensor? They work best when they have their own reference port. Could have weird readings when run on a teed off line.
with the overdrive light flashing you can bridge the toyota data connector and get a code. see what you get.
when mine was faulting it would not allow me to use overdrive. and shifting was odd.
turned out that the wiring loom was missing an earth to the gearbox. this was an a70 supra, but diagnostics and operation relativly the same.
make sure you have hooked up the transmission kick down cable and it connected. unless the ecu is not for an auto or that version of engine.
Hey guys. Overdrive on/off is not a problem. There usually is a button on the side of the gear lever to switch the overdrive on/off. It is like a 5th gear on older automatics, mainly used for highway driving.
I LITERALLY just bought one of those head units for my SC300. That's awesome
I know with an aristo 2jzgte if you do too much exhaust work on stock turbos the wastegates cant handle it and it boost creeps, and you can grenade the turbos. I can only assume the supra is the same.
in australia, losing a vent for a gauge is suicide
They didnt lose a vent tho
@@jordangarneau8817 sure they did. The only thing that vent is doing is cooling the gauge (if anything).
And Texas lol
@@TML34 how critical, retaining the vent is far better than non . I live 10 min from these gents and it will work perfectly .
Loving the build. I wouldn't worry about boost creep. 18 lbs isn't hurting the turbo and sure as fuck isn't hurting that tank engine that can handle 30-40lbs stock.👍
so i've gotten into the videos a lot over the past couple months, and watch all the new ones as they come out... but could you guys (or a commnentor) almost do a video guide or something for people to catch up on all your old video/series? maybe sort them by "season" and talk for a minute or two about each one, or which ones are best recommended? I dunno if the youtube algorithm would like it, but I just see so much cool older videos you guys have (that are criminally underviewed) and really don't know where to start!
The OD light flashing, at least with JZX100's and JZZ30's with the vvti can often be the fault of a bad throttle control ECU. This was the case with my JZZ30 late model, where the OD and slip control light would continually flash. A new throttle ECU fixed it.
You don’t tend to see full boost in first gear and sometimes second depending on gearing, the engine rpm acceleration out passes the boost, then in higher gears there is more time for the turbos to make boost.
What kinda laggy cars are you driving sor
@@boardinrider it's not lag, it's gearing and loading. Nice try though.
@@michaelallen2501 Same thing really. A turbo large enough to not get loaded properly in first is a kind of lag in itself. Nice try though.
I I
Love this series! Greetings from finland 🇫🇮
Sent the turbos to either be rebuilt with steel exhaust wheels or upgrade to gt28 hybrids then the fun begins. Also to cheaply manage boost either port the wastegate and or install an electronic bov to help bleed off boost
Them autos can be fun if done properly. I run an auto in my GS GTE swap. She goes and keeps going even if the wheels get loose.
The classic flashing od light...so more than likely speed sensor but in the plus side your traction control is completely off.
Tame that beast! she looks like a bit of a handful once them turbos wake up!
Not expensive??? $80 for a piece of plastic is insanely expensive 🤦🏻♂️
80 cad
@@folder4400 80 monopoly’s 🤣
I am loving the JDM content
Usually when the O/D light flashes its because it needs a manual swap😁
Also I promise you that ecu probably been upgraded internally for the fuel/boost cut. You can order a restrictive online also instead of fabricating one
Would like to see a video of the people's reaction when they see you guys drive the car that would be awesome
Cool vid! Thank you for your hard work and sharing!
Great content!! Always looking forward to you guys!
Bangers Back To Back 💪💪
Need a restrictor ring between the downpipe and the cat. Plate with a 2 inch hole.
Crazy. It’s sounds like a b58 🙌🏼
You should keep the black car and do a ZF 8HP (eight speed) auto gearbox swap, there's a company in Poland (I think) called HTG Tuning that does a controller for it.
Did you accidentally bump the overdrive lockout button on the shifter?
Did you press the overdrive button on the shifter? pretty sure you gotta be clicking that if you're gunna be shifting like that. Also gotta turn off traction control.
I put a silencer in muffler on mine and it would stay at 13 t 15 range with upgrades to waste gate it can b opened up 2 or 3 mil to stop boost creeping
You may need to run 100-200km until that bad gas clears up entirely. It looks like it pulls power. Both my RHD cars with half tanks of old/new gas did that.
Flashing overdrive light with tcs or abs light I’m pretty sure is a warning light for the auto
$80 for a 3D printed adaptor isn't expensive????
There might be a fuel cut defender installed somewhere.
Awesome as usual. Thanks guys.
Toyotas of that era would flash the lights on the dash to indicate different issues. There would be a different sequence for low fluid, or low pads etc.
Should probably get it tuned. Car was running a big single before and now small twins
The exclamation mark in the centre of the dash is just a general warning that you have an issue. Owning a Supra you get used to seeing it burning in front of your eyes all the time. It'll be your traction control fault causing it.
Gotta say, Dave is looking lean and mean these days!
Hi Speed Academy, can I recommend you guys 50 Ignite ignition kits they are very good products and will solve all your Ignition problems. and best of all they are made in Australia.
SA going through all the trouble to install a boost and WB gauge while also installing an android head unit that had Torque app installed... making the gauges redundant since the ECU already has both of those data points.🤷♂️
Ugh since when does the torque app work on OBI cars? Even if it did the engine doesnt have a wideband sensor...
@@speedacademy Fair enough Pete👍, was under the impression this thing was surely new enough to be on OBDII.
Is it still on the old tune from the large single setup? That might be a possible issue.
Looks like the suspension needs the “Hamilton valve tuning” applied. Rides like a brick right now.
@7:38 okay first of all you can’t say $8X.XX is not expensive for a plastic 3D printed piece like that! That is expensive! No two ways about it I’m sorry don’t talk down prices just say it’s SupraTax and be done with it, that’s a lot of money for a piece of plastic 🤦🏽♂️
@9:01 yeah I got an XTrons double din in my Supra had it for 3 years not it’s been perfect 👍🏽. I first had a glass screen one which felt more premium but now I have a newer model with more ram but the screen is plastic. I miss the premium feel of the glass touch screen over plastic but if you own an A80 Supra this is the perfect style of Doubledin to install. Yo I do have to recess it back a bit on the bracket to fit nicely with the plastic trim but once that’s done it looks like it was meant to be there 👌🏽
Great video guys hopefully you get the over posting issue sorted. The stock turbos can handle 20psi for quite some time 😉
Majority of your faults will be with the ecu and leaking capacitors due to age. Look there first as it resolve a he'll off a lot of problems. From a
fellow mk4 supra turbo owner. Save the time and trust me. Thanks
don't assume any of the vacuum lines were correct on the turbo system when you got the car. you may have a few flipped around
To me it still sounds like the ignition timing is not correct (to late) or the exhaust valves are opening to early.
I’m almost certain stock boost psi is between 16-20.
Stock boost on these Supras is 12lbs
Does the supers auto box have a "hold gear" function? Might be that? Doesn't seem to be working correctly regardless
*oldie slushbox throttle tuning*
- pins don't matter for the coil packs
- You won't hit boost cut immediately while over 14psi
- JDM turbos are fine at 18psi
10:26 Those contentital grippy bois.
What's the reason for no manual for the black car?
That warning light is you have to change the diff oil
Is 18psi really unsafe? These cars can make 500whp with no tuning.
Maybe the fuel pump is wired separately not controlled by the ecu
Try swapping the ECU from the red supra
Hope you guys figure it out! "You can go, youcango, youcango, youcango, WE DIDNT DIE!" hahahaha
I miss the evo content that thing was going to be rowdy!!
Could there be a boost by gear tune from the previous owner?
No, it’s just a function of gearing and relatively low load in 1st gear.
WTB greddy boost cut defender
Yes EC unit 🧐🤔
Was it already tuned ?!
Manual transmission incoming?
wishing you bought a z32 tt yet😁
where can i get that recaro hat
hey, supra run very rich because you didnt change chamshaft to oem and engine have more air that should be in stock, then lambda add some fuel and engine didnt smoke them all and you see behind your richer exhaust gases with unburned fuel
Hey guys. Love your channel. Been following you for a while now. I noticed you've got yourselves an auto mk4. I've got one of them to. Fun fact an m3 dct gearbox bolts on without much trouble and is highly tunable on a haltech standalone. Maybe give it some thought. Could be fun. 🙃🙃🙃
You guys should keep the red one and make it around 600-800HP 🥳
They are keeping the red one, that's the one that will be getting the major work done. They are just fixing the black one to sell.
@@Averna222 ohhh yeah good 💯🤟🏾
What model alpine is it?
Thanks
Thankyou Toyota for thinking for us. SA thankyou notes.....
Hold slip control for a few seconds
hmmm it seems like you might need the flappy paddle mod.
I believe I'm second havent watched but know it gonna be a banger love the video hope it gets a good home