Not a sparky but I would definitely be getting that supply cable changed. If it was me I would be running a 2.5 cable from the original power point straight to the isolater you installed and removing that extra power point and putting a blank cover on so its just a junction box. Hopefully you can suggest to them to get that fixed so its safe.
Good point mate. I agree, I've already let the property manager know that an Electrician needs to sort it out. I don't want to be associated with anything before the Isolator. Thats the Electricians job to fix. Thanks!
It's the Milwaukee Billet Metal Magnetic Level. Ive had many magnetic levels over the years and this one is by far the best. The magnets on it are different and are so strong compared to all the other levels I have owned. Its the only level I've had that can actually stay on metal Trunking whilst I'm hammer drilling it to the wall haha.
Great video and example of doing a quality job when the client won't allow a higher quality install. Some very dodgy electrical work identified too can't imagine a licensed electrician doing that.
14:00 You guys should start pressuring manufacturers to leaving longer tails. Nordic models have 600mm tails, pretty much on all manufacturers. Mostly cause all outside-walls here are 400mm or more due to insulation. It took some pressuring from importers to the manufacturers (Daikin, Mitsubishi Electric, Heavy Industries, Gree Etc) but now you can get pretty much anything with long tails.
Excellent job as always. Did you leave the breaker off after you finished until the electrical is sorted out? I like that new wire stripper, does a nice clean job. Stay well.
Thanks so much mate. I turned it back on and tested it out to make sure it works. Then turned it off when I left. I told the Property Manager that from the isolator back towards the switchboard doesn’t comply. That way it’s not my problem. An Electrician can rectify. If the tenant does turn it on, it’ll still work fine but I just didn’t want to be associated with it! Haha
@@maracservices absolutely , our license only covers to the disconnect too. To much liability if you just leave it running when you leave the job with that wiring arrangement.
My thoughts exactly mate. Now the system is replaced , I’ve told the property manager to get an electrician in to rectify the power. Interestingly though, the old system had a max current rating of 14 amps and ran fine. I don’t want to be associated with that power circuit so I’ve passed it on to the electrician.
Plenty of flex wiring is only 1.5mm on 20 amp breakers. Its because the appliances themselves dont draw the 20amps, and the circuit wiring itself is where all the load will be, as in if you're drawing 20 amps, and theres some 1.5mm plugged in, that 1.5 wont have all the load on it, as its paralleled and the 20 amps return path is through the neutral on the 2.5mm power circuit. Hopefully that made sense.
Thanks mate, that makes complete sense. This situation is your bread and butter being a dual tradie haha. I just saw a potential issue and flagged it with the property manager so they can get someone more experienced then myself to have a look. As long as all parties know that wasn’t me then I’m happy.
@@maracservices yeah man that's the right call, you don't want the liability of it. I see alot of dog shit installs and electrical work like that too. Makes life hard when I used to quote over the phone and a few photos for a back to back when I was too busy lol. I always put a condition of non compliant works on quotes, but the customer never enjoys being the unlucky one.
@@MentalLapse09 I know what you mean. Ive gone to jobs to discover some wild stuff. These days I just take photos of everything and let whoever needs to know, know via email (so theres a paper trail). My quotes are always more expensive than other companies. Literally every time. I think the main reason I'm always a little bit more is because I get a licensed sparky in who uses decent brand parts and as you know, nothing these days is cheap. I think a lot of people are doing electrical themselves whether they are licensed or not (which is completely messed up) to try and get the job. For me, I'm not interested in competing with poor installs so I just try my best to install stuff to a high standard. There are still people out there that are happy to pay a little bit more for quality.
Hi, Mitch. May I ask you a question about Actronair ducted aircon. The compressor soft starter SS9 LED flashes 3 times and compressor won't start. What's the meaning of LED flashing 3times and the potential causes? Its residental ducted AC. Thank you.
I’m not sure what the 3 flashing lights are. I’d need to test stuff with my multimeter. With that being said, I’d bet my house on the soft starter being faulty. I’ve changed many of them.
@@BChopakov if the unit is level it will splash oil around the compressor evenly and there is equal pressure on the components inside the compressor. It’s totally fine if there is a slight slope but nothing too drastic.
Yep R32 is supposedly more efficient then R410a. Both refrigerants do not damage the ozone layer however R410a has a greater contribution to global warming. R32 runs at pressures 1.6 times greater then R410a. It’s not all sunshine and roses though haha. R32 is considered flammable and is banned to be transported by aircraft. They originally said that the connections cannot be installed inside the living space however people have told me that’s not necessarily the case anymore (and no one adheres to it). All Daikins products are R32 except for their VRVs (which are still r410) because there is so many connections that are potentially inside living spaces (bulkheads etc) that they use R410a for safety measures. Long story short. Better for the environment. Just slightly more dangerous to work with (apparently).
The main inverter pcb is $560. Then my labour to install it. It’s not the same price however the land lord chose to replace the whole thing with new rather then investing in the old unit.
@@maracservices Yes that's exactly true,, Also add to the fact that so often that when you replace a main inverter board, the compressor could be shot and if the unit is old enough, there will likely be other components failing on it soon enough so yeah replacing the unit that comes with a 5 yr warranty is financially feasible in the long run, I do agree that it's shit that we have become a throw away society but when Daikin Inverter boards cost half the price of a new unit,, The manufacturers have a lot to answer for
Confused why the original installer went through all that hassle with the power point inside when he could of just used the one outside directly above the unit? One of mine is plugged into a PowerPoint outside
I hate doing aircon installs but watching someone else do it is so entertaining
Haha that’s understandable!
Clean job mate
I remember each AC circuit need to have its own circuit and protected by RCBO
Thanks mate. I agree, so I told the property manager to get an electrician in to sort it 👍🏻
Not a sparky but I would definitely be getting that supply cable changed. If it was me I would be running a 2.5 cable from the original power point straight to the isolater you installed and removing that extra power point and putting a blank cover on so its just a junction box. Hopefully you can suggest to them to get that fixed so its safe.
Good point mate. I agree, I've already let the property manager know that an Electrician needs to sort it out. I don't want to be associated with anything before the Isolator. Thats the Electricians job to fix. Thanks!
First time seeing what I'm guessing is a pipe level 🤔 that will be a handy tool to pick up 👍
It's the Milwaukee Billet Metal Magnetic Level. Ive had many magnetic levels over the years and this one is by far the best. The magnets on it are different and are so strong compared to all the other levels I have owned. Its the only level I've had that can actually stay on metal Trunking whilst I'm hammer drilling it to the wall haha.
Good job mate, good to see you use the screws to hold the unit to the back plate, so many installer don’t 👍
Thanks mate!
i do that too, helps a lot to push it too the wall
It's such a simple thing to do and it annoys me when installers don't do it to save seconds on an install.
Great video and example of doing a quality job when the client won't allow a higher quality install. Some very dodgy electrical work identified too can't imagine a licensed electrician doing that.
14:00 You guys should start pressuring manufacturers to leaving longer tails. Nordic models have 600mm tails, pretty much on all manufacturers. Mostly cause all outside-walls here are 400mm or more due to insulation. It took some pressuring from importers to the manufacturers (Daikin, Mitsubishi Electric, Heavy Industries, Gree Etc) but now you can get pretty much anything with long tails.
Brother, can you do a video on how to properly size a split unit? I was told some rule of thumbs but I'm curious how you do it. Thanks.
Nice job you completed Mitch under their Strata rules, its rather a shame they wouldn't allow you to mount that out door unit on neat wall brackets 😞
I would love to have this on brackets and fix the trunking up but unfortunately I don’t make the rules 😬
Thanks mate!
Excellent job as always. Did you leave the breaker off after you finished until the electrical is sorted out? I like that new wire stripper, does a nice clean job. Stay well.
Thanks so much mate. I turned it back on and tested it out to make sure it works. Then turned it off when I left. I told the Property Manager that from the isolator back towards the switchboard doesn’t comply. That way it’s not my problem. An Electrician can rectify. If the tenant does turn it on, it’ll still work fine but I just didn’t want to be associated with it! Haha
@@maracservices absolutely , our license only covers to the disconnect too. To much liability if you just leave it running when you leave the job with that wiring arrangement.
The R32 is a 15amp system on a 20amp mcb with multiple gpos.. thats a tripper.
My thoughts exactly mate. Now the system is replaced , I’ve told the property manager to get an electrician in to rectify the power.
Interestingly though, the old system had a max current rating of 14 amps and ran fine. I don’t want to be associated with that power circuit so I’ve passed it on to the electrician.
@@maracservices yeah very smart to want it looked at. As long a they don't plug in a heater or vacuum it shouldn't trip.
Plenty of flex wiring is only 1.5mm on 20 amp breakers. Its because the appliances themselves dont draw the 20amps, and the circuit wiring itself is where all the load will be, as in if you're drawing 20 amps, and theres some 1.5mm plugged in, that 1.5 wont have all the load on it, as its paralleled and the 20 amps return path is through the neutral on the 2.5mm power circuit. Hopefully that made sense.
Thanks mate, that makes complete sense. This situation is your bread and butter being a dual tradie haha. I just saw a potential issue and flagged it with the property manager so they can get someone more experienced then myself to have a look. As long as all parties know that wasn’t me then I’m happy.
@@maracservices yeah man that's the right call, you don't want the liability of it. I see alot of dog shit installs and electrical work like that too. Makes life hard when I used to quote over the phone and a few photos for a back to back when I was too busy lol. I always put a condition of non compliant works on quotes, but the customer never enjoys being the unlucky one.
@@MentalLapse09 I know what you mean. Ive gone to jobs to discover some wild stuff. These days I just take photos of everything and let whoever needs to know, know via email (so theres a paper trail). My quotes are always more expensive than other companies. Literally every time. I think the main reason I'm always a little bit more is because I get a licensed sparky in who uses decent brand parts and as you know, nothing these days is cheap. I think a lot of people are doing electrical themselves whether they are licensed or not (which is completely messed up) to try and get the job. For me, I'm not interested in competing with poor installs so I just try my best to install stuff to a high standard. There are still people out there that are happy to pay a little bit more for quality.
Hi, Mitch. May I ask you a question about Actronair ducted aircon. The compressor soft starter SS9 LED flashes 3 times and compressor won't start. What's the meaning of LED flashing 3times and the potential causes? Its residental ducted AC. Thank you.
I’m not sure what the 3 flashing lights are. I’d need to test stuff with my multimeter. With that being said, I’d bet my house on the soft starter being faulty. I’ve changed many of them.
I have a daikin mini split that broke within 6 months of use. Don't like Daikin. I installed a Mitsubishi Electric one
Hey, what happens if there's a slight tilt towards the compressor of the outer body?
@@BChopakov if the unit is level it will splash oil around the compressor evenly and there is equal pressure on the components inside the compressor. It’s totally fine if there is a slight slope but nothing too drastic.
jee thats some crappy electrical and dont ya just love the short tails on the daikins haha
Haha Daikin tails are a punish! Yeah that electrical was rubbish. They didn’t even hardwire the new GPO on the wall 😂
What's the FLA for the new daikin?
Is r32 more efficient than 410a? In US we don’t have many r32. Not in central yet. Any pressure differences ?
Yep R32 is supposedly more efficient then R410a. Both refrigerants do not damage the ozone layer however R410a has a greater contribution to global warming. R32 runs at pressures 1.6 times greater then R410a.
It’s not all sunshine and roses though haha. R32 is considered flammable and is banned to be transported by aircraft. They originally said that the connections cannot be installed inside the living space however people have told me that’s not necessarily the case anymore (and no one adheres to it). All Daikins products are R32 except for their VRVs (which are still r410) because there is so many connections that are potentially inside living spaces (bulkheads etc) that they use R410a for safety measures. Long story short. Better for the environment. Just slightly more dangerous to work with (apparently).
@@maracservices idiots making higher pressure refrigerant. Evap coil leak galore incoming.
I’d tell them having no isolator voids the warranty so I have to do it, they can’t say know surely
How is replacing a motherboard the same labor cost as installing a new unite ? how does that work
The main inverter pcb is $560. Then my labour to install it. It’s not the same price however the land lord chose to replace the whole thing with new rather then investing in the old unit.
@@maracservices das a big fat scam, price of a PC
@@maracservices Yes that's exactly true,,
Also add to the fact that so often that when you replace a main inverter board, the compressor could be shot and if the unit is old enough, there will likely be other components failing on it soon enough so yeah replacing the unit that comes with a 5 yr warranty is financially feasible in the long run,
I do agree that it's shit that we have become a throw away society but when Daikin Inverter boards cost half the price of a new unit,, The manufacturers have a lot to answer for
What was the reason they switched brands, was it the cost or some other reason?
Mitch just installs Daikin
How I understood you not check flare nuts indoor unit in heating mode
The indoor unit doesn’t have flare nuts
Confused why the original installer went through all that hassle with the power point inside when he could of just used the one outside directly above the unit? One of mine is plugged into a PowerPoint outside
Mate my thoughts exactly. Crazy stuff!
Maybe the outside plug was later installed?
I'm guessing that Mistubishi died. It looked old and dated.
Mitsu MHI is better than Daikin
Thanks for the tip mate. I’ll keep that in mind moving forward.