DIY MULTI-ZONE Ductless MINI SPLIT Installation in New Construction!
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- Learn how to install a DIY multi-zone ductless mini split system as new construction rough-in! This DIY mini-split system provides air conditioning and a heat pump for heating, plus this multi-zone unit allows for independent climate control, all with one outdoor condenser! bit.ly/mrcoolmu...
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The attention to detail on this project, especially around air sealing the exterior envelope is commendable. I work on high performance and passive house multifamily projects and the types of details you are installing are exactly what we should be seeing for efficient and resilient buildings. One issue we see is that as you say in the video, these types of minisplit systems can be way too over sized for smaller homes. You may find that come summer time, you struggle to fully dehumidify the home. The issue at play is that the systems have so much output that they can meet the cooling demand for the building before they have a chance to effectively dehumidify. If that becomes an issue you could try only running one of the minisplits and leaving the doors open so that the cooling demand for the building is better matched to the output of the unit. You just need to ensure good air circulation between the spaces.
I'm actually fairly sure you open the refrigerant valve first THEN check for leaks (I noticed you added sound deadening before opening the valve too). Either way, great video!
Currently one of my favorite build series on UA-cam. Thanks for all the hard work putting it together!
Thanks for watching!
@@craftedworkshopwhat happen when your tubing are not long enough can you add another to one to extend the leght . May you needd to add more refiregentant in the line ??
Nice trick with the laser to hit the studs with the drywall screws!
Oh yea, works great!
Its funny that they dont show how to vacuum the lines and check for keaks this inf is half ways poor video no thanks. Sorry
@@JorgeRodriguez-uy1mr The lines are pre-charged with refrigerant. No vacuum pump needed. I'm a universal certified HVAC technician.
Glad you got it sorted out, I am really enjoying the build!
Two notes from our own Mr.Cool install for people considering trying it ( we put in two of these multi-head systems in our place)
1. Use a torque wrench when making connections and torque to the values specified in the manual. I cannot over stress how hellish it is to try and isolate a leak when you have between 8 and 16 connections on a full unit. Just....do it properly the first time.
2. Be super careful with any type of expansion foam around the lineset. If you are going to use it, make sure it has room to expand and isn't between the lineset and a stationary surface. It can expand and crimp the drain line, causing all kind of water damage and worse in an in-wall application like this. The only bonus is if that happens, you'll know pretty quick 😂
Good tips!
Just don't use vinyl drainline. Run the vinyl into 3/4" pvc. The pvc won't clog as often
Glad you got that unit off the exterior wall and onto concrete blocks. My condenser sends a weird vibration through the house when it is running.
Mines sounds like a car is running outside lol
As a structural engineer, drilling such large holes through the plates is a no-no, but an easy fix is to strap across using CS16 straps on either side. Or using 2x blocking between the studs just below the top plate and strapping across there. Ditto for the sole plate.
This is so very helpful - thank you! I've been looking for hours how to set the minisplit lines through an interior wall - 2 x 4 non-load bearing bottom plate myself. Going to try to go with the smallest hole size I can, but these lines are thick.
This guy starts every statement with..." As a structural engineer"
As a structural engineer you have zero friends
@@TheDarkdanik says the guy trolling folks on the internet over comments that are 2 years old
I was wondering the same thing after seeing such large hole! Thanks for explaining this!
You did one heck of a job explaining everything. I believe I can now install my unit. Ty sir.
I actually forgot to watch last week's episode, but it turned out just fine since I got to watch 2 episodes in a row today! :D
Same thing happened to me! 😂
Hah, lucky you!
Me three
You may have oversized the indoor units the system may short cycle and to get the moisture out of the air.
Interesting video and very instructional. A couple of suggestions though:
Leaks should be checked after the valve off the unit is opened. It does no good to check for leaks if the system isn’t pressurized. Also, even though the unit is pre charged it is a MUST to put the evaporator units and lines under vacuum. These lines introduce air and dirt into the system otherwise. Any moisture and dirt from the manufacturing process will cause issues with your entire mini-split system and will lead to malfunction and or failure.
Otherwise excellent video!
mr cool lines are pre charged at the factory,
Great video everything was explained perfectly. Don’t criticize this guy because you can’t comprehend what you’re seeing.
i have 3 bedrooms upstairs. Can I run linesets through the attic?
i believe you can tbh. make sure to get alot of copper and brass equipment
Impressed with the drywall tools.
How can you test for leaks on the initial lines before they're connected to the compressor?
I am very impressed. I love how you explain everything in detail and the care you do for all your work. Great work ethic.
Thank you very much!
Friendly tip: The building code for drywal aplication is one screw every 12 inches. You probably used a box of scews for that house. Interior walls you mudered with soooo many screws. But drywall glue two dabs per stud on the wal before installing the board and one scew in the middle of the sheet. Get some training before you train others. Fyi, to cut out a box, always go counterclockwise to avoid blowouts. Using angleiron for backing can save you on time when you need backing.
How did you check for leaks before you opened the charging screw? Are the lines under pressure before allowing refrigerant to flow into the line sets?
This is what Im wondering....it doesn't make any sense lol, and usually you gotta vacum them out too.
@@chrisleslie1988 as long as these have been out on the market, I'm surprised people still ask this question. The lines are pre charged with refrigerant. No need to pull a vacuum. Mr. Cool has made them that way for years, and they run great.
@@gp37128 It depends on which units the Mr Cool is. It looks like these are the quick connectors which would be pre pressurized lines. I'm installing the Pioneer system in my house right now.
How can you check for leaks before you open the refrigerant valve? It’s like checking for water leaks with the water off
According to some of the other comments, those line sets don’t end up with refrigerant in them. Maybe we should watch a Mr cool video. Must get to the bottom of this mystery!
This is a mrcool dyi unit which has refrigerant in their lines. They connect and then that opens them up.
Can you substitute pex hose for drain lines instead of the original drain pipe?
I'd like to know what the precharged lines are precharged with. Do they come with some sort of valve that opens when you tighten them? Do they actually contain refrigerant? or are they just in a vaccuum and capped off somehow? Can't make
sense of this. He also checked for leaks adter tightening just one end of the line, either he didn't know what he was doing or the lines do come pressurized with refrigerant and this filled the indoor unit whem tightening while the other end still was capped somehow. Would love to know more...
Did you have to order extra linesets to span the distance or did the ones included in kit long enough?
8:54 Leak test should be done after the refrigerant is released into the lineset.
Don't the DIY lines come precharged? Since the fitting are the puncture style, wouldn't tightening the fittings together release the refrigerant in the lines?
@@lvlikeyV pre vacuumed not pre charged
The lines are pre charged. From mr cool. “25 ft. precharged line set, can be easily installed by the homeowner. No special equipment, training, or tools are required to install thanks to the pre-charged quick connect DIY line set.”
How did you pressurized the system to check for leaks with the soapy water without the outside unit plugged and turned on? Air compressor?
Thr actual lines have gas in them, so are under pressure.
@@benoitrochon589 hum... I'm pretty used to install this type of AC and have never seen the pipes loaded with gasses from factory, the gas is inside the outside unit, only when you connect everything and release the valves the gas loads the pipes and go to the condenser pressurizing the system. He was testing for leaks without the external unit plugged, that's why I didn't understand it.
@@luxtempestas go check the MrCool website. Their lines are pre-loaded.
@@benoitrochon589 nice, never seen this!
@@benoitrochon589 so the connectors are keeping the lines pressurized? So the gases don't leave the line from an open end?
If your indoor units are different sizes, does it matter what ports you connect them to? Ive heard you're supposed to connect the largest btu unit to the lowest fittings?
Five years ago I installed mini-splits in my existing home, but half the interior walls are concrete block and half are lath and plaster. I did the refrigerant lines differently, connecting them outside the wall and tucking them inside the unit. The so called "communication wire" in mine has a full 220 Volts and I was not comfortable leaving what is basically an extension cord open to rodents to eat. So instead I used metal conduit and #14 wire. The lineset was too short on one so I had to braze some more copper on it. Of course last weekend the controller board crapped out so I guess it is going to be a pile of scrap metal soon.
Nice video. I have two questions: one is about checking leaks, do you open the valve a few seconds to check leaks? if no leaks then open fully open valves, right? The other is about the master valve, you mentioned it was not recorded. But where is the master valve located? Thank you.
Question on the bottom wall where u placed the big minisplit how much weight can those studs hold? PLAN on hanging a 83 90lb tv on it. Do u think it's a good idea?
So please explain what the soapy water test on the inside connection of the line set accomplishes when the lines are not under pressure.
All Line-sets and units are pre-charged. So everything is pressurized from the factory.
@@zacharywhite8230 Not true. Compressor is pre-charged with enough refrigerant for 25 feet...The line sets are not pressurized. If they were, you would still break the vacuum while terminating to the condenser and evaporator. You would still want to charge the system with nitrogen, leak test, then vacuum down the system whilst removing the nitrogen charge. Then while there is still a vacuum, you would release the refrigerant all while keeping an eye on the gauges to ensure you are within maker plate specs. They (Mr.Cool) does call these 'DIY', but if you read the manual, it also states that a professional who is licensed to deal with refrigerant should perform the final turn-up.
@@uswcboy then they need to quit leading people on about having Line sets ready to go.
@@uswcboy this is a mrcool dyi unit. Their linesets have refrigerant in them.
@@zacharywhite8230 If you tube is the source of information, or being lead, then they will continue to lead. If you research the items and look at the facts, no one is being lead anywhere.
Fantastic video, Johnny! Loving this series!
Vendo esse video eu percebi que eu trabalho muito bem! 😅
Com as ferramentas que tenho e opções que temos disponíveis eu consigo fazer um bom trabalho! 😁
Why would you check for leaks, before you've put anything through the lines?
Like there's a vacuum in the pipes before you open them, so you're not going to see any bubbling if there was a leak.
Question: i have a 5 way mini split and I did everything in your video, but the outdoor unit isn't turning on. What can I do to have the outdoor unit spinning?
How about installing one in an existing home? and do you need a permit for residental homes?
How did you check for leaks before introducing refrigerant to the system?
Soap bubbles. This is only because this system is dyi. Otherwise you use dry nitrogen to check for leaks on typical hvac systems.
@@sprockkets thats what I mean, if there is no pressure in the line, there's nothing to bubble up through the soap to show a leak
Another excellent video that covers much of what the others don’t. The only point I would add is that when cutting LP Smart Siding, you need to wear a respirator or at the very least, a decent grade dust mask, because the siding is impregnated with a anti-termite agent that is highly toxic to humans. Cheers!
I have 2 bedrooms next to each other, 150 sq ft. each. Can I series two indoor units together on one condenser unit. I realize only one room will have temperature control. Can I do this to lower the price and just have a single outdoor unit rather than a dual zone unit. Thanks.
How did you check for leaks without pressure system ?
I'm wondering how as well? Great series btw, thanks a lot.
I came to ask this question. How?
Same. Inquiring minds need to know!
Actually good question.
System is full of pressurized refrigerant.
How did you check for leaks if you didnt open the ref. valves ?? there is nothing in the lines ?? also why dont you need to vacuum the lines ? especially long runs like you had .
Sweet, changing over to one of these in the near future. Do you order those lines whatever length you want or just pick from premade lengths?
How big in amps is needed in the circuit breaker box is needed for this setup?
How are you checking for leaks before the refrigerant is turned on, like the very first place in the video where you check for a leak? What's going to leak if there is no refrigerant? Are the lines themselves charged with pressurized refrigerant, so that's what would be leaking?
From Mr Cool. “25 ft. precharged line set, can be easily installed by the homeowner. No special equipment, training, or tools are required to install thanks to the pre-charged quick connect DIY line set.
No gravity condensate pump?
Oh I see you got it gravity flow
How do you pressurize the lines to bubble test them? Are the lines you connect carring freon or chilled water? If it's water how do you get all the air out of the lines? Thanks
The lines are pre charged
Obviously this is out of date, but it looks like the cripple studs up near the rafters by that last evaporator are pressure treated wood (see 6:10 in the video for example). Is that a problem for drywall screws?
I have been using ductless mini splits for more than a decade and they typically last 10 years. It is best to have the system set up in a way that you can completely replace everything every 10 years. Routing the line sets behind the dry wall is a recipe for disaster unless you are ok with completely replacing the drywall along with the AC. Just my two cents. Great video.
If I have three units, can the temp be controlled independently or do they all have to be set to heat or cold?
@@Kat-pr7qc If you have a situation where you have three units in three rooms and each has hugely different temperature requirements, for example one needs to be heated while the other needs to be cooled at the same time, then you should get three heads with three separate compressors. On the other hand, if you want to cool three rooms and they all run at similar temperatures then go with a single multi zone compressor and three heads.
Wondering if the lines could be snaked back in using the shop vac method in one of the first videos?
Why replace the lines just connect the new components.
my air con has a humming sound that osilates up and down with only a few second intervals, what is causing that? thx. btw it is extremely annoying and I cant sleep with the air con running. Also the condensation pump makes a hell of a noise everytime it turns on.
how do you manage the temperare in bathrooms? great job btw and thanks for your reply
I have an exhaust fan with a built-in heater for the winter months, but it stays comfortable during the summer months as long as you're not taking an hour long shower.
I've a question, why MrCool? I'm looking at mini splits for my house and looking at all the brands and I'm always curious as to why a brand is picked over the others. It might be the one thing that convinces me to get that brand. Thanks, nice job.
I have panasonic duct less, it's 2.0 ton unit, it has Mirai app by phone we can just connect it to wifi and use it.
Mr cool can try something like that insted of giving usb and all these
Is there any reason you didn’t vac the line sets?
What amp breaker did you use?
How do you check for leaks when the system is not pressurized?
The lines are pre charged
These mini splits are awesome. I have 2!
Unrelated to the mini splits - I'm in EU and most houses have concrete foundations, but thinking of building a summer house like the one you have. I've noticed it's raised on concrete slabs, and that you can crawl under the house.
My question is how do you deal with rodents/animals/ snakes and bugs nesting under the house, and if it snows there (or rains heavily) won't the bottom mold (since it's wood)?
Thanks in advance.
You should've checked for leaks in the inside connection also, with the refrigerant running thru it. When you joined them there's nothing running through the lines, so you won't know if you have a leak or not.
The lines are pre-charged.
@@craftedworkshop so when you connect the lines it releases what's in the line without turning the screw. I assume then you need to immediately check for leaks before it all goes out.
Interesting, you mounted the unit on the side of the house. What happens when you need to reside the house?
This is great, thanks. one thing, is there any point in 'checking for leaks' before charging the lines? i mean, if you haven't opened up the valves on the unit, then there is no pressure in the lines to push bubbles out, right?
Honest question.
I was wondering the same thing. unless the lines have some in it and when you connect them it opens somehow.
How do you determine which wall you mount the mini split on and how do you calculate what size of mini split you should get for your room?
1 ton is 12000 btu and is recommended for up to 400sqft. Other factors to consider , building material, how much sun exposure and heat loss. Its best to consult a hvac professional for heat load/ loss calculations. Good luck
Will these mini splits cool down a restroom or a closet also?
How did you check the line sets for leaks before you had pressure on the system? Not sure I would want compression refrigerant fittings in a wall without access.
I was thinking the same thing...
Also, if you didn't vac the lines, you'll end up with a small amount of moisture in them which "they say" can degrade the life of the compressor.
Or did I miss something?
@@NobukiPhu you don't vac the lines.
@@NobukiPhu Not they say. It WILL create acid in the oil of the compressor and create a burnout.
@@NobukiPhu The lines are already prepared, internally dry, and are of a set length from the factory. No vac necessary. It is a unique part of the DIY series from the company Mr. Cool. Downside is the set length.
I have installed two of these in my home. The lines are not pressurized the compressor is. If you fail to pull a vacuum on the lines you will have moisture in the system.
How much is the heating bill? We’re in north Alabama I might install one of these in a 1500 sq ft ranch
SO did you pull vacuum?
what size breaker and wire did you use for your outside unit. and you only needed one disconnect box for this entire unit ??
Hi I fix multi split air conditioner in my shop but one split is giving cool very well other one is not cooling and never receive out water…
Can you give me some tips
Thank you
Hi great work. I just had an estimate to have one head mini split. I was told I would need some electrical work to connect the power. (completed basement) I was given a price of 5300 does that seem a lot? When I priced the units for one head is around 1400.00. That means the rest is labor. Does that seem like a lot?
It is a lot. One head mini split requires only a simple dedicated 1-phase circuit using 12awg wires.
Yes that’s alot of money
We found out the hard way, fire foam is not to code as fire block. You need fire block caulking. This product expands when burned so it continues to pluck the gap as material burns away.
We started a 2hour burn wall and luckily were told early on in the build of our mistakes. Had to dig out all of the foam around rafters and floor joists and replace with caulk.
Thanks for the video.
Perfect placement of TWSS
If I have three units, can the temp be controlled independently or do they all have to be set to heat or cold?
Independently. Each unit has it's own line set so they operate completely independent of the others.
Is there a reason you did not mud, sand, and paint before hanging?
The detail on this series is awesome. I look forward to every video
Thanks Cullen!
Are you at all concerned that the oversized AC units may not do a good job of dehumidification?
what if you only need 10’ of line set? Can the linesets be cut down?
What year was mini split invented? I do wish house's from 2004 had mini splits in the bedrooms as it can be stuffy in 2nd floor bedrooms
Great work, nice attention to detail. I have a question for you though. Why would the Code require Fire rated foam sealing of your penetrations when the wood construction frame itself is combustible construction? I do not believe that the IRC (International Residential Code) requires this level of fire protection at penetrations especially in a single occupancy building. See IRC 2020 P2606.1 Sealing of annular spaces. paraphrasing - the caulking material , foam sealant or gasketing material shall be designed for the conditions at the penetration location. Since the condition is that of combustible construction, fire rated caulking is "overkill".
How did you test for leaks? Used compressed nitrogen to a certain pressure? How did you evacuate all air and moisture from all line sets before introducing refrigerant?
The newest version (the one I have) has prefilled lines with quick connect that dont require purge (from what I understand)
The lines are zero loss fittings, and come Pre-charged. He tested with soapy water as demoed on the video
How did you check for leaks without pressure in the lines?
The lines are pre-charged.
Can the compressor be mounted in a garage?
Umm how did u screw the ceiling drywall with the unit in the way?
Sir,, anu po ma isusuggest nyo na set up - 2nd floor to 4th rooftop bahay namin and mahina na ang water supply sa 2nd flr. Pataas,, oki lng ba sa rooftop ilagay mga pump and storage tank?
Nice video, but it appears the maximum distance for the Mr. Cool unit from wall unit to condensor/electric control unit is 24' unless they have custom extensions or something? That seems somewhat limiting. Also how did you test for leaks with nothing flowing through the lines? Also what did you do to insulate the hole going to outside the house (or did you end up not using that hole due to moving the condenser/electric control unit?
You can add another set of line and no problem. It comes with the electric and the gas piping.
Yeah, he hooks up the head w/o a torque wrench, then immediately tests for leaks without pressurizing the lines before closing in the connections behind the drywall. I think the video skipped a step. But regardless, this system would be a nightmare to troubleshoot / repair because connections between line and head units are buried in the walls.
This was funny cuz a edited video makes it look alot easier lol especially with the foundation lifted but at the end of the day good job
Thanks for this video. How do you determine the length of the line sets? Also, how large is the compressor? I understand you need to have the right ration between square footage and BTU capacity. How do I figure that out?
You didn’t pull a vacuum on the line set before opening your refrigerant valves?
you don't vac the lines with the diy kit.
@@chrismarch6644 Hmmm, that’s contrary to what the professional refrigeration and HVAC techs recommend for precharged mini split systems. The line sets should be vacuumed prior to releasing the refrigerant into the lines.
No, pre-charged lines are definitely not vacuumed.
@@craftedworkshop the line sets are not precharged. The refrigerant is released from the outdoor unit after the line sets are connected and vacuumed.
@@merlingrim2843 not with this MrCool system, you are incorrect. Look it up if you don’t believe me.
How much does this run and where dp ypu order
Great video thank you!!! You talk about mold growth and didn't use MR sheetrock
What type of insulation is used in the ceiling? I just installed my Senville units this week in my garage. It's also18000 BTU.
Nice job 👍🏾
In the Video you check for leaks on the interior connections before the lines were charged.... How would soapy water indicate a leak on an uncharged line? or is the line-set actually charged as well?
From Mr Cool. “25 ft. precharged line set, can be easily installed by the homeowner. No special equipment, training, or tools are required to install thanks to the pre-charged quick connect DIY line set.”
Just finished my multi zone install this was super useful!!! 🔥🔥
Nice dude, glad I could help!
How loud is the outdoor unit?
How long are the lines?
@@lakesidecollision4763 you can get 16 ft or 25 ft lengths
@@nickmpower not bad at all, can’t really hear it inside even before insulation is installed.
How does spraying the soapy water find leaks if the lines are not pressurized?
The lines are pre charged
Whats the name of the pink & yellow plastic in the roof?
Does the drain line just terminate in the dirt, or did you have to put extra thought into that? Not sure how much condensate something like this produces.
What size is the outside unit?
Take a sip every time he says, "go ahead". Just kidding. Thanks for sharing. It's interesting to see these types of units become more popular in North America.
First time I saw these were in a bed/breakfast in Sicily years ago. They had them on proximity sensors so when you entered the room they would kick on, and turn off after a few minutes when exiting. I was amazed at how well they worked, took literally a few minutes to get the the desired temp. They’ve since blown up here in the US.
Nicely done sir
How long can the line sets be for these sort of systems?
The standard length is 25 ft.
Question... I realize this is a few months old but, I am looking at these for my new woodworking shop and was wondering if you have had any issues running these in a shop environment? I'm concerned about how often filters will need cleaning and if there will be problem with the drain line clogging or any other issues that I need to be aware of that a dusty environment might cause. Thanks.
Great video Justin Gaethje!
Can the lines be shortened? Or are the actual lines filled with refrigerant? Thanks for the great video.
The lines are pre charged