How I Installed a Pioneer Mini Split in my Wood Shop
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Pioneer sent me a 9k BTU mini split for my shop. Here's how I installed it.
Want a Pioneer unit for yourself? Check out Pioneer using my affiliate link:
www.pioneermin...?sca_ref=23956.rwtRR10XUa
Amazon links:
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/2p35Eb1
Manifold Gauge: amzn.to/2q1VLe7
Adapter: amzn.to/2M2B762
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
We're throwing in a pair of gloves with the next one! Great video Rob.
Just hand them over, he might drop them if you throw them his way.
And a torque wrench adapter!
Are you selling in Canada?
Why not just close the valve before disconnecting the hose, then open it back up once it's off? That's how I did mine. I got no leakage at all.
@@BEdmonson85 I think the main reason is to keep the atmosphere and any moisture out of the system.
I love how Robert makes even the most mundane shit interesting. Never thought I would watch a video about installing an AC system but there we are
Yeah, me too!
Yep agree ..was interesting !
I wouldn't watch anyone else rebuild a Trabant engine. I'm not even into cars.
He's just so damned personable, is hilariously self-deprecating, and has master level editing skills that make his videos fun and snappy. Nice work, dude :)
@@pdahandyman It's almost like he's related to the guy in Technology Connection
"My blood vessels started popping out, so thats my torque setting I guess"
The highest torque setting for me, is passing gas. One toot? Good. Just a grunt is needed for Metric.
Too late now, but when removing the service hose connection, you can push the hose side into the access port while unscrewing it. That'll keep a decent seal until you get it unscrewed.
I just left a left a comment on your other video about how proud I was that you wear your PPE and you go and pull that refrigerant stunt!
I'm no electrician either but whenever I have a hole in a metal panel that I plan to feed wires etc through, I always use a grommet to protect against abrasion/cutting at the sharp edge. Just my 2c.
To late I already provided the needed "know it all" comment for Mr. Dunn's new youtube channel. But you are right and now I have provided a "know it all" comment on a "know it all" comment do I get a toaster?
@@allenfunstuff nope but you do get a non functional toaster
@@killingtimeitself Nope so no toaster but you then say I get a non-functional toaster. lucky I have been reading about quantum theory and Q-bits so that is perfectly understandable and does not violate logic so long as the possibility of the toaster is supercooled.
@@allenfunstuff well you see a functional toaster and a non functional toaster are not the same thing since one works and one doesn't
The toaster is both working and nonworking until you make toast in it. Then you either get toast or you don't, revealing the state of of your toaster.
I've been an electrician most of my life. Other than my personal preference of "run conduit along the wall" instead of the flex cable, and not really needing the fuses in the disconnect(can't hurt), your wiring is fine. It's well above code(area depending).
"Refer to your manual ... and panic". Need this on a t-shirt.
Just an aside, the wiring to the inside unit has a color code, red, black, white and green. As you said, the colors "don't matter" as long as each end agrees, is the same, on both units which is technically correct but, there's always a but, green is universally for ground. That would be the fourth connector on the far right. It would be a good idea to actually connect the green to ground just in the off chance you ever have to have someone else service your unit. While you know that the green is a live or neutral (or anything other than a ground) they'll be expecting it to be a ground and may end up putting it to ground or, worse. Safety pays.
Where I come from, green-yellow is protective-earth, blue is neutral/ground and the three phases are brown, black and gray.
@@ChristophPech The install was done in the U.S.A. and the color codes are as mentioned above for the entire nation.
@@kmoecub the above comment did in fact not mention any specific nation but used the word "universally" which refers to the universe instead.
@@ChristophPech 😂
This was amazing. You made installing an AC the most interesting video Ive watched in a while
Your video was really helpful, thank you for putting it together. It was nice to be able to see what you were doing when I was second guessing myself about the line evacuation, etc. The manual is good but I’m a perfectionist and needed another information source. I made a trip to Harbor Freight for a torque wrench, crows feet, gauges and a vacuum pump. That might have been over the top but I feel good about my install. I’m also a handyman and may do this again for my customers so the $200 investment should come back to me. I’m very happy with Pioneer’s tech folks and customer service. I’m also thrilled with our Inverter++ 18k unit. We waited far too long to do this. Thanks everyone!
As an ac techinitian my self that does that for a living I'm glad you did your homework I was halfway expecting to find issues with how you installed it but that was a great informational video 👏
Should have pressure tested pipe work with ofn first.
Im sorry but if you found no issue with this video, you are not an AC technician.
@@marcknight5678 Exactly! where did you get your license, Clinton? You have NO clue either. Go to school, get a job with a licensed contractor that owns his license and has a reputation to protect, then go get your own license.
then youre not a good tech. he should have used a micron gauge when pumping down, wire from cond to evap should be in seal tight, should have bubble tested fittings for leaks, and you cant crew the manifold connection on too far as he said he did.
For a walkthrough guide you couldn't ask for better. Humour, good info, proper safety, shows mistakes and what happens and how to prevent it and you got working AC. Subbed. Again
Hey Robert Dunn, if you want to avoid lots of refrigerant loss when removing the manifold hoses, you can close the liquid line valve and pump down the refrigerant to the condenser. When the pressure on the low side, blue guage gets down to about 10 PSI, pull the disconnect, remove the hoses. Don't forget to release the liquid line valve and secure all of the caps before restarting the unit.
There's a guy on UA-cam with a WeeGo that looks very much like you...
That's actually just a body shell replica with unique internals from an alternate universe
No no, he looks way more like the guy with a Smart Car. This guy is just a cheap Chinese copy with poor welding skills.
You’re all wrong. THAT guy is an idiot...😂. Actually I’m an idiot because I clicked on this because I saw him in the thumbnail and had no idea there’s more stuff he does....
*wheego. It's wheego.
@@aliabdallah102 Wuheego?
I’ll probably never install anything like this...but here I am watching this video start to finish with no regrets.
I have never seen anyone this irresponsible and completely unaware of repercussions...just like a kid.
My first experience with one of these pioneer things was this week during my stay at a Yurt. Fantastic little device if I do say so myself. It was a bit overkill at 18k btu but I appreciated it.
Gotta tell ya - the video was worth the price of admission and then some. Great job in explaining the installation process. I found this very helpful.
I give this video a 5-Star rating.
Oh, Thanks so much for showing me about disconnecting the test line before releasing the gas into system. One less mistake to make. Also, thought I had a leak in the 30 lb vacuum test, it was rising, I didn’t, make sure you have your test lines on good and tight.
I got a Pioneer unit with 3 inside units. I'm usually very handy, but after reading the manual I couldn't figure out how to do this without losing my precharge, or where the refrigerant charge actually is. Your video was a godsend. I've ordered the vacuum pump, gauge and adapter you so thoughtfully linked instead of giving up and calling an HVAC professional to connect my linesets. Thank YOU!
How did it go? Looking through comments (about to do it myself for the first time) and want to know how the equipment worked for you? Thanks tons
@@TheFNGBenJammin After I saw this video and looked at the instructions again, I understood the precharge was in the outside unit and the air leaking out of the lines was just compressed nitrogen they put in there to keep them from absorbing moisture so it is supposed to leak out. Two out of the three lines worked perfectly, the third one leaked very slowly. The 3rd line did not leak under vacuum; it leaked very slowly once I put a charge in it. Luckily, I did not open the valve all the way to that line and checked it with a small amount of positive charge, so was able to loosen the lines, put a lubricant gel on it and reattach that lineset, and it didn't leak after that. I lost some refridgerant from the third lineset, but it appears that there was enough in the central unit that it is still operating very efficiently. Even with all 3 inside units running, the outside unit is keeping them well supplied and they are running with nice cool air coming from them.
MadScience Gary Cool, thank you very much!! I ordered the stop leak stuff from pioneer website last night. How much did you use?
@@TheFNGBenJammin Honestly, I didn't use any on the two lines that didn't leak at first. I only used a VERY small amount on the third line. Just enough to put a film on each of the adjoining surfaces.
MadScience Gary great, I bought 2 tubes because I wasn’t sure how much I was going to use (figured it would be better to have extra on hand than to wait around for shipping on another if I did need it) but now I think I’ll get away with just the one. Did you use the same vacuum pump and gauges as he did in the video?
I haven’t started watching the video yet, but, from the comments, I can tell it’s going to be gold.
Edit: it was
Thank you for this video. I just completed the installation of a Pioneer mini split (220v, 1200 BTU) for my garage (soon to be my home rehearsal/recording studio). Very helpful video!
if your not a teacher you should consider it...Perfectly explained with NO nonsense
Hi Dunn, thank you for creating this good video instruction.
According to the installation guide, the steps are as follows:
......etc
1. turn the liquid valve 1/4 turn counterclockwise; which you did
2. Watch the pressure gauge higher than the atmospheric pressure and it did not go down; which you did
3. Remove the charge hose from the service port; which you did not do until later
4. Fully open both the high and low pressure valves
But you did step 3 after step 4. I think it might explain why you released a lot of coolant and get your hand burned.
Please confirm that the above is correct, since I need to install my AC soon.
Thanks.
Huge fan of aging wheels and seeing you do videos on a different topic is really nice to see aswell.
I only read a few comments but you can cut the tubing and reflare the pipe to take that extra loop out if it. Also I bought flare seals on my 4 units. First one had a small leak from the connection and the flare seals fixed it. You can also get a kit that covers the exposed line set and makes it look a bit cleaner. I put one in my shop one in a detached garage and two in my house in the bedrooms to just cool what I need. This Freon is on the endangered species list and soon to be phased out. Since I had 4 units I picked up a 25 pound can of 410 Freon. That will last me longer than I need and I can top mine off if needed. Thanks for the video. It’s a good 101 vid and you can always go more OCD and neaten the line set.
I know this is 3 years later, but I just installed my Pioneer unit. One thing I will add to your video for other people to know is that if you are mounting directly to a slab, you have to use at least a 1" spacer (in addition to the rubber isolation pad) between the slab and the outdoor unit feet. If you don't, you absolutely will not have enough room for the drain fitting on the bottom of the unit. If you don't connect the drain fitting and a hose, you'll definitely start growing algae and moss under the unit. So, just make sure you have room before mounting the darn thing.
All of the OCD folks and electricians died on that non-ground green wire 🤣. Great video!
great job...dry sense of humor helps while banging your head against a wall doing projects...luckily you probably did that on your previous mini-split installs and this one worked out great! Thanks for all the info
Infectious enthusiasm goes a long way with me. Good job.
If you have spare energy, try mounting the outside unit on something a little taller and then place a bucket under the condensation drain. That way you might have less water related problems with the foundation (or not, depends how wet your foundation already is). I'm surprised the installation manual didn't instruct to do this.
Anyway, great video, you're already the biggest competitor to "This old house" channel! ;)
I think sending you a free split system might count as sponsorship man :P
In regards to not having an open ended torque wrench.
If you have luggage scales and know the length of your spanner you don't need one
Eg. Need 15ft/lb and have a 6in wrench? Pull on the scale till 30lb
Force=ftlb/feet
Jonathon van der Wijngaart handy thanks!
*assumes your luggage scale is reasonably accurate, no doubt
That was fun to watch and Costco now sells several sizes of pre charged fully self contained mini splits like your installing. I'm considering getting one, or something like you have now seeing how I'm pretty handy and I have a good friend who does HVAC repairs and installs. Thanks for putting your sense of humor along with good information about doing it yourself.
The green wire seems smaller so it should really be ground.
And, it's green
@@emostorm7 yep, green or green-yellow is the standard color for earth
bahh, those are low voltage lines anyhow :)
not so sure about them being low voltage lines. he keeps calling them "signal wires" but why are they so think? the indoor unit doesn't have a mains connection of its own, so it's power. If not mains, probably a decently high DC voltage.
@@spambot7110 It's probably whatever mains voltage you have locally. Here in Europe, it's common for 1 and 2 to be L and N instead, denoting the live wires. This way you can supply power to the entire minisplit from a household socket through the interior unit (possible due to the more power allowed by 240V mains) elliminating the need for an outdoor power supply feed.
Making ac installation interesting .he is a goddddd
I love how you cleaned *just* the area the unit was going lol :)
I am about to hook up my Pioneer 1200 in the next week or so once I get the electrical set up for 240... it was nice to see the whole job done from start to finish.
Thanks :)
Anyone else want to see Robert open a can of biscuits?
Which? Wood or flour?
@@ELCADAROSA Flour for sure.
I've installed 3 of these systems, Pioneer (Parker Davis HVAC) makes top notch stuff.
I just watched this yesterday, and I'm already back. These videos are great to relax with.
A nice pull strip wrapped around the knurled knob that goes onto the schrader valve can let you spin them off pretty quick.
Very helpful video. However I do need to add one thing : do all your lineset management / wrapping / securing to the house before making the final connections. The connectors are really delicate and can easily be damaged if you do this after connection. I learned this the hard way when I sprung a leak in the system after successfully bringing it up (thinking I'll save the wrapping for last) .
As a result I would really recommend getting the torque wrenches (at the minimum from harbor freight) and also doing the nitrogen pressure test. A nitrogen tank turns out to be not so expensive to rent and regulator valves aren't expensive and it feels good to be able to test it closer to the 550 psi maximum operating pressure. Although I am not really sure it's safe to do that in this pioneer system so I tested it upto about 300psi.
Refrigerant mishap. You missed the part on removing the vacuum pump after the first crack the valve for 5 seconds to lightly pressure the lines. After the pump is removed the directions say to open both valves fully. I had a very light hiss doing mine, you do want the fitting fully seated on the shrader valve or you may not pull vacuum through the system the valve plunger has to be depressed.
For the winter months you👍🏻 might consider a ceiling fan in order to force the heated air down where needed.
"Click." That was great!
Turn on the unit in cooling mode before you disconnect the pressure gauge, and you will find it is much easier to do because the pressure drops a lot on the service port. No need to worry about cold gas leaked out to damage your hand.
Thank you for the video, I installed mine following your instructions.. Saved me allot of money...Works awesome.....We are very greatful..Now I can do this with the other units...
BEST diy video of ANY KIND I have seen. Thank you!
Didn't even know you had another channel! I've put two of these units in this summer at two radio communications shelters - work awesome -- should also note they make 120V and 240V units; and the wifi modules work great!
Hi! Great video! Just for trivia, what you call a pin connector is called a ferrule.
This is the best install video I've seen in a long time! Thank you and Kudos!
The AVE's ahhh click always works!
This is the channel, where the side projects get dunn
I do the refrigerant lines a little differently. I open it for 5 seconds like this, but disconnect the gauge when still closed then open. it won't drain out that way and both the lines and system are still full.
Love this additional channel, just as funny as Aging wheels and I love DIY as well as cars.
the thought that i have is that this channel will do better than the other one. especially if you continue doing wood shop stuff
Funny and saved me a sh*t load of money by doing it myself using this video
Thanks man. Very clear and easy to follow
Thanks for the time to show us 👍I don’t know much about a/c but this was informative.
You single handedly talk me out of buying a pioneer unit congratulations
How are your hands doing?
Gotta admit, I winced at the refrigerant spray. I've charged car A/C systems before, so I know what it's like so get sprayed.
That looked painful.
Seemed to rate low on the Swear Gauge, which is how I rate pain.
you're correct that the colors of the wire don't functionally matter as long as you get it the same at both ends, but good luck if you ever get an inspection or have to make a fire insurance claim! I'd suggest going back and fixing that just to avoid getting in trouble!
this does have a practical justification too. future owners, or even just a forgetful future you, could later replace one of the units, and not knowing the other end is connected in a non-standard way, wire it up according to the manual. boom
also, the ground is a ring while the phases are spades, to make sure that ground is the last to disconnect if it gets yanked, which is an important safety feature. so you really are setting yourself up for, at best, some serious liability if anything goes wrong
Sometimes I wish I had a woodshop to make lutherie stuff, especially basses.
The rest of the time (about 98% of it) I remember all the extra upkeep and maintenance work required and conclude it's not worth it. Yet.
“If you hear a leak refer back to your Manuel and panick” 😂 This guy is a Savage!
Pioneer now makes aircons 😍😍
Looks good 👍 but as an HVAC tech I wouldn't loop the line set like that causes it to be an oil trap
Also if you don't want to risk losing your 410A charge pre-testing your wine set with nitrogen is the preferred method
I have installed a few of those pioneer there decent for how cheap they are obviously there no Mitsubishi mini-split but not everyone can afford those
Try using some ball valves on the end of your refrigerant hoses to keep the refrigerant from in your hoses from going on your hands when you take them off
Love that oil trap in your line set.......
I just ordered the same model today. RV install.. it should be pretty easy.
How's she goin'? Heat pumps are fantastic. I just can't believe they work as good as they do!!! They are a miracle!! Nice install. Take care!!
“I didn’t but it seems like a good thing to say” you’re just full of one liners 😂
I love your sense of humor 😅
Some split units I have seen, come with nitrogen gas built-in, so that you can test your fittings for leaks before you release the actual refrigerant.
This was really helpful wrt the refrigerant vacuum service port whatever. I'm looking at these things and hoping that I can learn what else they can do in the years to come, but at least I can maybe not cave and just call a guy to finish this project. Also - The communication cable sent with these Pioneer units in 2021 is not rated. If are concerned about why or just want/need to do a NEC21 permissible job, you will need to make your own 12/3 nm wiring.
Half a grunt is usually good enough for most things these days.
Awesome video, saved the product for later purchase 👍
I know it's probably already been said, but the point of pulling a vacuum is to remove any moisture/water from the lines (as water boils/vaporizes in a vacuum). Also the longer you leave the caps off the nitrogen filled lines the more you defeat the purpose of filling them with nitrogen in the first place (which is once again, to keep water out as unlike R410A, it is not compressible and will destroy the compressor).
spade terminals on the outdoor unit go under the square plate(sandwiches the spade terminal as u screw it down) so it doesn't vibrate loose n make zappy killy power float around
Turns out, Rob is pretty good at making videos and is pretty entertaining. Laughed a little, felt a little depressed as well, just like real life.
42. The meaning of life is 42.
Jackie Robinson?
No, 42 is the ultimate answer to the question of life, the Universe, and Everything.
"Pioneer did not sponsor this video but they did send me this 9000 BTU unit at no cost." Ummm..... GREAT video though. You make it look super easy.
Never ever use a green wire as a current carrying conductor. It is to be used as the "grounding" conductor only!!!
you need to swap the Black and Green wires.
A kid playing with "fire" literally.
Thank you so much! You answered exactly the question I had!!!!!
one of your ground connections on the outdoor unit (bottom right, with the stranded wire) looks really dangerous. you should remove it, twist the wires together into a single bundle, and form it into a clockwise hook, and tighten the screw over that. right now most of those strands are barely even touching the terminal, and you really don't want insufficient grounding!
Great video but instructions say to disconnect the charge hose from service port before opening both valves.
I've been watching this now several times because I've ordered a minisplit today. And as I said in my previous comment, this is really good information. After watching that "disconnect burn" for the 3rd time I was wondering if it would be better to disconnect the blue hose first and then open the valve. Wouldn't that eliminate the gas leakage? I know you exactly followed the instructions. Just some food for thought. I'll try it when I get mine.
Its better to have some refrigerant escape than to leak air back into the vacuum (would occur removing the blue hose first). Someone in the comments made a potentially helpful comment about pushing it up as you unscrew which I plan to try when I next install one so hopefully it works, otherwise gloves and being quick at undoing it are the only option.
Jordan Kramer thank you for the hint! I finished the install today and followed your advice to push against the adapter while unscrewing it and almost nothing spilled! Works like a charm.
Great video and thank you! But wire colors DO matter! Black is always hot, white is always neutral, green is always chassis ground (in the US, some other countries may vary a little but rarely). Many places will allow a smaller ground wire than the hot wires, so you could overload that ground wire. And notice there's a different type lug on the green wire. And any electrician that looks at either end will immediately assume it's mis-wired and could even be a hazard to anyone working on it.
Can't wait for more entertaining videos. Loving the second channel!!!
Crows foot is the adapter you want for your torque wrench. And don't forget to put it at 90 degrees to the torque wrench handle or you will not get a correct torque reading.
15min vacuum 😂😂😂 I’m sure it got down to 500 microns in that amount of time 😂
How long would you vacuum it? It's just 16 ft of pipe and the coil.
Agreed
@@AllAmericanGuyExpert when the micron gauge says your at 500
@@luke49050 My installer must have been stupid ... he got it down to 350 microns.
(Just kidding)
I'm a God Damn woodworker!!! But I watched this video anyway. Halfway through it, the thought dawned on me, "Why thr he'll am I watching this video? I've already got an AC unit hooked up in my shop and this has nothing to do with woodworking. Then I pressed play and continued watching the video.
I think you could probably make a video on dirt and make it interesting to watch.
Nice Job and very entertaining!
Would’ve saved a lot of time if I listened to your comment about needing a r410a Schroeder valve adapter to charge the unit.
"pioneer didn't sponsor this video but they did [sponsor this video]"
He disclosed it though.
Kevin K. He disclosed it. But he tried to down play it though ...
How is the Pioneer mini split holding up 2 years later?
Whoa. That's really great.
Great sense of humor my friend! Definitely gave it a like.
Man super cool of Pioneer to send you one for free!
My social life, which has never been spectacular, lately is really Under Dunn.