A little tip: when you release the charge of 410 into the vacuumed lines you can open the valve just enough to get 20 to 50 pounds of pressure in the lines. Then close the valve. Then take your hose off quickly. Then release the rest of the 410. It'll make it easier to take the hose off with less pressure so you have less 410 escape (and get less burn on your hands) as you disconnect the hose.
@@jtr82369 You leave it in the tool until you're done, then reinstall it. Then recover the gauge set and lines. Then let them sit under vacuum for a bit, and check to make sure pressure isn't rising so you know the valve sealed.
@@ionstorm66 maybe I’m missing something but if you remove the valve core, then the refrigerant won’t stop evacuating when you remove the vacuum pump 🤔
Too late now, but when removing the service hose connection, you can push the hose side into the access port while unscrewing it. That'll keep a decent seal until you get it unscrewed.
I watched and re-watched this video many times. I watched it several times before I even purchased my unit. I finished my install today. I did 100% of the work myself and it was so satisfying to watch it turn on and start cooling. I have a decent understanding of how it worked going into it, but it helped to reference your video if I was a little hesitant. Thank you.
Gotta tell ya - the video was worth the price of admission and then some. Great job in explaining the installation process. I found this very helpful. I give this video a 5-Star rating.
great job...dry sense of humor helps while banging your head against a wall doing projects...luckily you probably did that on your previous mini-split installs and this one worked out great! Thanks for all the info
Your video was really helpful, thank you for putting it together. It was nice to be able to see what you were doing when I was second guessing myself about the line evacuation, etc. The manual is good but I’m a perfectionist and needed another information source. I made a trip to Harbor Freight for a torque wrench, crows feet, gauges and a vacuum pump. That might have been over the top but I feel good about my install. I’m also a handyman and may do this again for my customers so the $200 investment should come back to me. I’m very happy with Pioneer’s tech folks and customer service. I’m also thrilled with our Inverter++ 18k unit. We waited far too long to do this. Thanks everyone!
I'm no electrician either but whenever I have a hole in a metal panel that I plan to feed wires etc through, I always use a grommet to protect against abrasion/cutting at the sharp edge. Just my 2c.
To late I already provided the needed "know it all" comment for Mr. Dunn's new youtube channel. But you are right and now I have provided a "know it all" comment on a "know it all" comment do I get a toaster?
@@killingtimeitself Nope so no toaster but you then say I get a non-functional toaster. lucky I have been reading about quantum theory and Q-bits so that is perfectly understandable and does not violate logic so long as the possibility of the toaster is supercooled.
I've been an electrician most of my life. Other than my personal preference of "run conduit along the wall" instead of the flex cable, and not really needing the fuses in the disconnect(can't hurt), your wiring is fine. It's well above code(area depending).
As an ac techinitian my self that does that for a living I'm glad you did your homework I was halfway expecting to find issues with how you installed it but that was a great informational video 👏
@@marcknight5678 Exactly! where did you get your license, Clinton? You have NO clue either. Go to school, get a job with a licensed contractor that owns his license and has a reputation to protect, then go get your own license.
then youre not a good tech. he should have used a micron gauge when pumping down, wire from cond to evap should be in seal tight, should have bubble tested fittings for leaks, and you cant crew the manifold connection on too far as he said he did.
I am about to hook up my Pioneer 1200 in the next week or so once I get the electrical set up for 240... it was nice to see the whole job done from start to finish. Thanks :)
For a walkthrough guide you couldn't ask for better. Humour, good info, proper safety, shows mistakes and what happens and how to prevent it and you got working AC. Subbed. Again
Thank you for this video. I just completed the installation of a Pioneer mini split (220v, 1200 BTU) for my garage (soon to be my home rehearsal/recording studio). Very helpful video!
My first experience with one of these pioneer things was this week during my stay at a Yurt. Fantastic little device if I do say so myself. It was a bit overkill at 18k btu but I appreciated it.
You’re all wrong. THAT guy is an idiot...😂. Actually I’m an idiot because I clicked on this because I saw him in the thumbnail and had no idea there’s more stuff he does....
@@cimarronperformancewerks6611 Actually you're all idiots. And I'm an idiot too. Cause I saw the Thumbnail, went: "Is that that Wheego guy?" and promptly watched him installing his free air conditioning unit in a non-sponsored video. ;P And I would do it all again.
I only read a few comments but you can cut the tubing and reflare the pipe to take that extra loop out if it. Also I bought flare seals on my 4 units. First one had a small leak from the connection and the flare seals fixed it. You can also get a kit that covers the exposed line set and makes it look a bit cleaner. I put one in my shop one in a detached garage and two in my house in the bedrooms to just cool what I need. This Freon is on the endangered species list and soon to be phased out. Since I had 4 units I picked up a 25 pound can of 410 Freon. That will last me longer than I need and I can top mine off if needed. Thanks for the video. It’s a good 101 vid and you can always go more OCD and neaten the line set.
I got a Pioneer unit with 3 inside units. I'm usually very handy, but after reading the manual I couldn't figure out how to do this without losing my precharge, or where the refrigerant charge actually is. Your video was a godsend. I've ordered the vacuum pump, gauge and adapter you so thoughtfully linked instead of giving up and calling an HVAC professional to connect my linesets. Thank YOU!
@@TheFNGBenJammin After I saw this video and looked at the instructions again, I understood the precharge was in the outside unit and the air leaking out of the lines was just compressed nitrogen they put in there to keep them from absorbing moisture so it is supposed to leak out. Two out of the three lines worked perfectly, the third one leaked very slowly. The 3rd line did not leak under vacuum; it leaked very slowly once I put a charge in it. Luckily, I did not open the valve all the way to that line and checked it with a small amount of positive charge, so was able to loosen the lines, put a lubricant gel on it and reattach that lineset, and it didn't leak after that. I lost some refridgerant from the third lineset, but it appears that there was enough in the central unit that it is still operating very efficiently. Even with all 3 inside units running, the outside unit is keeping them well supplied and they are running with nice cool air coming from them.
@@TheFNGBenJammin Honestly, I didn't use any on the two lines that didn't leak at first. I only used a VERY small amount on the third line. Just enough to put a film on each of the adjoining surfaces.
MadScience Gary great, I bought 2 tubes because I wasn’t sure how much I was going to use (figured it would be better to have extra on hand than to wait around for shipping on another if I did need it) but now I think I’ll get away with just the one. Did you use the same vacuum pump and gauges as he did in the video?
Mini splits are the bomb. If I ever replace or install a new AC unit I'll be eschewing the ducted monstrosities and going with a multi-zone mini split. Individual control in each room is very nice and they excel at removing humidity with the variable speed fans/compressors if you get the inverter compressor models.
Oh, Thanks so much for showing me about disconnecting the test line before releasing the gas into system. One less mistake to make. Also, thought I had a leak in the 30 lb vacuum test, it was rising, I didn’t, make sure you have your test lines on good and tight.
That was fun to watch and Costco now sells several sizes of pre charged fully self contained mini splits like your installing. I'm considering getting one, or something like you have now seeing how I'm pretty handy and I have a good friend who does HVAC repairs and installs. Thanks for putting your sense of humor along with good information about doing it yourself.
Thank you for the video, I installed mine following your instructions.. Saved me allot of money...Works awesome.....We are very greatful..Now I can do this with the other units...
Hey Robert Dunn, if you want to avoid lots of refrigerant loss when removing the manifold hoses, you can close the liquid line valve and pump down the refrigerant to the condenser. When the pressure on the low side, blue guage gets down to about 10 PSI, pull the disconnect, remove the hoses. Don't forget to release the liquid line valve and secure all of the caps before restarting the unit.
Hi Dunn, thank you for creating this good video instruction. According to the installation guide, the steps are as follows: ......etc 1. turn the liquid valve 1/4 turn counterclockwise; which you did 2. Watch the pressure gauge higher than the atmospheric pressure and it did not go down; which you did 3. Remove the charge hose from the service port; which you did not do until later 4. Fully open both the high and low pressure valves But you did step 3 after step 4. I think it might explain why you released a lot of coolant and get your hand burned. Please confirm that the above is correct, since I need to install my AC soon. Thanks.
Just an aside, the wiring to the inside unit has a color code, red, black, white and green. As you said, the colors "don't matter" as long as each end agrees, is the same, on both units which is technically correct but, there's always a but, green is universally for ground. That would be the fourth connector on the far right. It would be a good idea to actually connect the green to ground just in the off chance you ever have to have someone else service your unit. While you know that the green is a live or neutral (or anything other than a ground) they'll be expecting it to be a ground and may end up putting it to ground or, worse. Safety pays.
Didn't even know you had another channel! I've put two of these units in this summer at two radio communications shelters - work awesome -- should also note they make 120V and 240V units; and the wifi modules work great!
not so sure about them being low voltage lines. he keeps calling them "signal wires" but why are they so think? the indoor unit doesn't have a mains connection of its own, so it's power. If not mains, probably a decently high DC voltage.
@@spambot7110 It's probably whatever mains voltage you have locally. Here in Europe, it's common for 1 and 2 to be L and N instead, denoting the live wires. This way you can supply power to the entire minisplit from a household socket through the interior unit (possible due to the more power allowed by 240V mains) elliminating the need for an outdoor power supply feed.
How are your hands doing? Gotta admit, I winced at the refrigerant spray. I've charged car A/C systems before, so I know what it's like so get sprayed.
Installed one in mine last Jan. I have been able stay in my shop more during cold weather and now when temps are in the 100's. If I turn it on, it takes about 15 min and it is just fine!
Very helpful video. However I do need to add one thing : do all your lineset management / wrapping / securing to the house before making the final connections. The connectors are really delicate and can easily be damaged if you do this after connection. I learned this the hard way when I sprung a leak in the system after successfully bringing it up (thinking I'll save the wrapping for last) . As a result I would really recommend getting the torque wrenches (at the minimum from harbor freight) and also doing the nitrogen pressure test. A nitrogen tank turns out to be not so expensive to rent and regulator valves aren't expensive and it feels good to be able to test it closer to the 550 psi maximum operating pressure. Although I am not really sure it's safe to do that in this pioneer system so I tested it upto about 300psi.
Turn on the unit in cooling mode before you disconnect the pressure gauge, and you will find it is much easier to do because the pressure drops a lot on the service port. No need to worry about cold gas leaked out to damage your hand.
I have an 18,000 BTU mini-split in my shop. Love it. I was very concerned about dust clogging the coils, so I built a box to sit on top with a 20x25 furnace filter to catch the dust. The filter’s surface area is 3X the area of the mini-split’s inlet, so there isn’t much resistance to air flow. I religiously change the big filter every month. So far my coils have remained clean.
In regards to not having an open ended torque wrench. If you have luggage scales and know the length of your spanner you don't need one Eg. Need 15ft/lb and have a 6in wrench? Pull on the scale till 30lb Force=ftlb/feet
If you have spare energy, try mounting the outside unit on something a little taller and then place a bucket under the condensation drain. That way you might have less water related problems with the foundation (or not, depends how wet your foundation already is). I'm surprised the installation manual didn't instruct to do this. Anyway, great video, you're already the biggest competitor to "This old house" channel! ;)
I do the refrigerant lines a little differently. I open it for 5 seconds like this, but disconnect the gauge when still closed then open. it won't drain out that way and both the lines and system are still full.
Try using some ball valves on the end of your refrigerant hoses to keep the refrigerant from in your hoses from going on your hands when you take them off
LOVE the humor! "... to avoid an early death..." lol! I'm about to install my 12,000 Pioneer myself when it arrives next week and using your video as a step-by-step reference... hahaha I am a complete novice. If there are any words of advice, please let me know! But your vid looks awesome and thorough... so yeh. Haha pray for me!
For the positive pressure leak check skip the soapy water - go to your hardware store of choice and get some liquid leak detector designed for natural gas appliances - it's much thicker and does a far greater job at showing slow leaks. And it's not expensive either. And hook the green ground wire to ground :p
How did it go? I have the 12,000 BTU 230v unit (exact same as yours) and I am SUPER nervous about doing this. Wiring is no biggie but I am dreading the actual balancing and pressurizing work. Did you use the tools he linked on Amazon?
@@BriNJ1983 Sorry - apparently I didn't get notification on your comment. Check what they have in the installation guide; it should specify. If you have longer length you may have to put in larger gauge cable - I put an induction stove in and had to use service entrance cable since I was about 80 feet from the fuse box (about as far as one could be - was rather annoying). It was right on the edge so I errored on the side of caution.
TheFNGBenJammin i ended up returning the equipment I bought on Amazon, and using a referred HVAC guy. He was a tad expensive but I ended up having too much going on and didn’t want to risk messing anything up. I also bought the (I think it was) 25’ tube/wiring, and where I wanted to put it the HVAC guy said it wasn’t ideal (up against an interior wall) so we switched it, and I only needed like 10 feet,, so the excess would need to be cut. At that point I just said “screw it” and let the guy do it. Labor was about $1k. ::sighs:: but at least I know it was done right and no excess, etc. I also had to use an electrician because one video I watched said use a double 15 pole breaker, another said 30 double.... so I also said “screw it” and got a electrician. That ended up being another $325 for everything (I am hoping that is a good price because he’s a friend lol) Had a lot of personal stuff plus increased school work land on me, so didn’t want the added drama of the HVAC going wrong. 😑 BUT THE PIONEER works GREAT in my garage thus far 👍🏼
Looks good 👍 but as an HVAC tech I wouldn't loop the line set like that causes it to be an oil trap Also if you don't want to risk losing your 410A charge pre-testing your wine set with nitrogen is the preferred method I have installed a few of those pioneer there decent for how cheap they are obviously there no Mitsubishi mini-split but not everyone can afford those
This was really helpful wrt the refrigerant vacuum service port whatever. I'm looking at these things and hoping that I can learn what else they can do in the years to come, but at least I can maybe not cave and just call a guy to finish this project. Also - The communication cable sent with these Pioneer units in 2021 is not rated. If are concerned about why or just want/need to do a NEC21 permissible job, you will need to make your own 12/3 nm wiring.
We're throwing in a pair of gloves with the next one! Great video Rob.
Just hand them over, he might drop them if you throw them his way.
And a torque wrench adapter!
Are you selling in Canada?
Why not just close the valve before disconnecting the hose, then open it back up once it's off? That's how I did mine. I got no leakage at all.
@@BEdmonson85 I think the main reason is to keep the atmosphere and any moisture out of the system.
A little tip: when you release the charge of 410 into the vacuumed lines you can open the valve just enough to get 20 to 50 pounds of pressure in the lines. Then close the valve. Then take your hose off quickly. Then release the rest of the 410. It'll make it easier to take the hose off with less pressure so you have less 410 escape (and get less burn on your hands) as you disconnect the hose.
Or just use a schrader valve core tool. Then you can bypass the schrader valve.
@@ionstorm66 what do you put in place after you remove the valve core?
@@jtr82369 You leave it in the tool until you're done, then reinstall it. Then recover the gauge set and lines. Then let them sit under vacuum for a bit, and check to make sure pressure isn't rising so you know the valve sealed.
@@ionstorm66 maybe I’m missing something but if you remove the valve core, then the refrigerant won’t stop evacuating when you remove the vacuum pump 🤔
@@jtr82369 Look up a HVAC valve core tool. It's completely sealed up.
I just left a left a comment on your other video about how proud I was that you wear your PPE and you go and pull that refrigerant stunt!
"My blood vessels started popping out, so thats my torque setting I guess"
The highest torque setting for me, is passing gas. One toot? Good. Just a grunt is needed for Metric.
Too late now, but when removing the service hose connection, you can push the hose side into the access port while unscrewing it. That'll keep a decent seal until you get it unscrewed.
I watched and re-watched this video many times. I watched it several times before I even purchased my unit. I finished my install today. I did 100% of the work myself and it was so satisfying to watch it turn on and start cooling. I have a decent understanding of how it worked going into it, but it helped to reference your video if I was a little hesitant. Thank you.
did you vacuum the lines or as some folks suggest, no needed?
@@dosvaskosfarms4643 for pioneer you need vaccum , mr cool is the one you don't need to vaccum but also it costs more.
Infectious enthusiasm goes a long way with me. Good job.
“If you hear a leak refer back to your Manuel and panick” 😂 This guy is a Savage!
This was amazing. You made installing an AC the most interesting video Ive watched in a while
Gotta tell ya - the video was worth the price of admission and then some. Great job in explaining the installation process. I found this very helpful.
I give this video a 5-Star rating.
BEST diy video of ANY KIND I have seen. Thank you!
great job...dry sense of humor helps while banging your head against a wall doing projects...luckily you probably did that on your previous mini-split installs and this one worked out great! Thanks for all the info
if your not a teacher you should consider it...Perfectly explained with NO nonsense
Your video was really helpful, thank you for putting it together. It was nice to be able to see what you were doing when I was second guessing myself about the line evacuation, etc. The manual is good but I’m a perfectionist and needed another information source. I made a trip to Harbor Freight for a torque wrench, crows feet, gauges and a vacuum pump. That might have been over the top but I feel good about my install. I’m also a handyman and may do this again for my customers so the $200 investment should come back to me. I’m very happy with Pioneer’s tech folks and customer service. I’m also thrilled with our Inverter++ 18k unit. We waited far too long to do this. Thanks everyone!
I'm no electrician either but whenever I have a hole in a metal panel that I plan to feed wires etc through, I always use a grommet to protect against abrasion/cutting at the sharp edge. Just my 2c.
To late I already provided the needed "know it all" comment for Mr. Dunn's new youtube channel. But you are right and now I have provided a "know it all" comment on a "know it all" comment do I get a toaster?
@@allenfunstuff nope but you do get a non functional toaster
@@killingtimeitself Nope so no toaster but you then say I get a non-functional toaster. lucky I have been reading about quantum theory and Q-bits so that is perfectly understandable and does not violate logic so long as the possibility of the toaster is supercooled.
@@allenfunstuff well you see a functional toaster and a non functional toaster are not the same thing since one works and one doesn't
The toaster is both working and nonworking until you make toast in it. Then you either get toast or you don't, revealing the state of of your toaster.
Just installed my 12k pioneer today and used the vid for step by step. Works like a charm
I've been an electrician most of my life. Other than my personal preference of "run conduit along the wall" instead of the flex cable, and not really needing the fuses in the disconnect(can't hurt), your wiring is fine. It's well above code(area depending).
As an ac techinitian my self that does that for a living I'm glad you did your homework I was halfway expecting to find issues with how you installed it but that was a great informational video 👏
Should have pressure tested pipe work with ofn first.
Im sorry but if you found no issue with this video, you are not an AC technician.
@@marcknight5678 Exactly! where did you get your license, Clinton? You have NO clue either. Go to school, get a job with a licensed contractor that owns his license and has a reputation to protect, then go get your own license.
then youre not a good tech. he should have used a micron gauge when pumping down, wire from cond to evap should be in seal tight, should have bubble tested fittings for leaks, and you cant crew the manifold connection on too far as he said he did.
I just want to thank you for making mistakes for this. This has made my installation more effective.
I am about to hook up my Pioneer 1200 in the next week or so once I get the electrical set up for 240... it was nice to see the whole job done from start to finish.
Thanks :)
Huge fan of aging wheels and seeing you do videos on a different topic is really nice to see aswell.
For a walkthrough guide you couldn't ask for better. Humour, good info, proper safety, shows mistakes and what happens and how to prevent it and you got working AC. Subbed. Again
Thank you for this video. I just completed the installation of a Pioneer mini split (220v, 1200 BTU) for my garage (soon to be my home rehearsal/recording studio). Very helpful video!
My first experience with one of these pioneer things was this week during my stay at a Yurt. Fantastic little device if I do say so myself. It was a bit overkill at 18k btu but I appreciated it.
There's a guy on UA-cam with a WeeGo that looks very much like you...
No no, he looks way more like the guy with a Smart Car. This guy is just a cheap Chinese copy with poor welding skills.
You’re all wrong. THAT guy is an idiot...😂. Actually I’m an idiot because I clicked on this because I saw him in the thumbnail and had no idea there’s more stuff he does....
*wheego. It's wheego.
@@aliabdallah102 Wuheego?
@@cimarronperformancewerks6611 Actually you're all idiots. And I'm an idiot too. Cause I saw the Thumbnail, went: "Is that that Wheego guy?" and promptly watched him installing his free air conditioning unit in a non-sponsored video. ;P
And I would do it all again.
I’ll probably never install anything like this...but here I am watching this video start to finish with no regrets.
I have never seen anyone this irresponsible and completely unaware of repercussions...just like a kid.
I love your sense of humor 😅
"Refer to your manual ... and panic". Need this on a t-shirt.
I only read a few comments but you can cut the tubing and reflare the pipe to take that extra loop out if it. Also I bought flare seals on my 4 units. First one had a small leak from the connection and the flare seals fixed it. You can also get a kit that covers the exposed line set and makes it look a bit cleaner. I put one in my shop one in a detached garage and two in my house in the bedrooms to just cool what I need. This Freon is on the endangered species list and soon to be phased out. Since I had 4 units I picked up a 25 pound can of 410 Freon. That will last me longer than I need and I can top mine off if needed. Thanks for the video. It’s a good 101 vid and you can always go more OCD and neaten the line set.
I got a Pioneer unit with 3 inside units. I'm usually very handy, but after reading the manual I couldn't figure out how to do this without losing my precharge, or where the refrigerant charge actually is. Your video was a godsend. I've ordered the vacuum pump, gauge and adapter you so thoughtfully linked instead of giving up and calling an HVAC professional to connect my linesets. Thank YOU!
How did it go? Looking through comments (about to do it myself for the first time) and want to know how the equipment worked for you? Thanks tons
@@TheFNGBenJammin After I saw this video and looked at the instructions again, I understood the precharge was in the outside unit and the air leaking out of the lines was just compressed nitrogen they put in there to keep them from absorbing moisture so it is supposed to leak out. Two out of the three lines worked perfectly, the third one leaked very slowly. The 3rd line did not leak under vacuum; it leaked very slowly once I put a charge in it. Luckily, I did not open the valve all the way to that line and checked it with a small amount of positive charge, so was able to loosen the lines, put a lubricant gel on it and reattach that lineset, and it didn't leak after that. I lost some refridgerant from the third lineset, but it appears that there was enough in the central unit that it is still operating very efficiently. Even with all 3 inside units running, the outside unit is keeping them well supplied and they are running with nice cool air coming from them.
MadScience Gary Cool, thank you very much!! I ordered the stop leak stuff from pioneer website last night. How much did you use?
@@TheFNGBenJammin Honestly, I didn't use any on the two lines that didn't leak at first. I only used a VERY small amount on the third line. Just enough to put a film on each of the adjoining surfaces.
MadScience Gary great, I bought 2 tubes because I wasn’t sure how much I was going to use (figured it would be better to have extra on hand than to wait around for shipping on another if I did need it) but now I think I’ll get away with just the one. Did you use the same vacuum pump and gauges as he did in the video?
I just watched this yesterday, and I'm already back. These videos are great to relax with.
Mini splits are the bomb. If I ever replace or install a new AC unit I'll be eschewing the ducted monstrosities and going with a multi-zone mini split. Individual control in each room is very nice and they excel at removing humidity with the variable speed fans/compressors if you get the inverter compressor models.
Oh, Thanks so much for showing me about disconnecting the test line before releasing the gas into system. One less mistake to make. Also, thought I had a leak in the 30 lb vacuum test, it was rising, I didn’t, make sure you have your test lines on good and tight.
That was fun to watch and Costco now sells several sizes of pre charged fully self contained mini splits like your installing. I'm considering getting one, or something like you have now seeing how I'm pretty handy and I have a good friend who does HVAC repairs and installs. Thanks for putting your sense of humor along with good information about doing it yourself.
Thank you for the video, I installed mine following your instructions.. Saved me allot of money...Works awesome.....We are very greatful..Now I can do this with the other units...
I love how you cleaned *just* the area the unit was going lol :)
This is the best install video I've seen in a long time! Thank you and Kudos!
Hey Robert Dunn, if you want to avoid lots of refrigerant loss when removing the manifold hoses, you can close the liquid line valve and pump down the refrigerant to the condenser. When the pressure on the low side, blue guage gets down to about 10 PSI, pull the disconnect, remove the hoses. Don't forget to release the liquid line valve and secure all of the caps before restarting the unit.
Hi Dunn, thank you for creating this good video instruction.
According to the installation guide, the steps are as follows:
......etc
1. turn the liquid valve 1/4 turn counterclockwise; which you did
2. Watch the pressure gauge higher than the atmospheric pressure and it did not go down; which you did
3. Remove the charge hose from the service port; which you did not do until later
4. Fully open both the high and low pressure valves
But you did step 3 after step 4. I think it might explain why you released a lot of coolant and get your hand burned.
Please confirm that the above is correct, since I need to install my AC soon.
Thanks.
Just an aside, the wiring to the inside unit has a color code, red, black, white and green. As you said, the colors "don't matter" as long as each end agrees, is the same, on both units which is technically correct but, there's always a but, green is universally for ground. That would be the fourth connector on the far right. It would be a good idea to actually connect the green to ground just in the off chance you ever have to have someone else service your unit. While you know that the green is a live or neutral (or anything other than a ground) they'll be expecting it to be a ground and may end up putting it to ground or, worse. Safety pays.
Where I come from, green-yellow is protective-earth, blue is neutral/ground and the three phases are brown, black and gray.
@@ChristophPech The install was done in the U.S.A. and the color codes are as mentioned above for the entire nation.
@@kmoecub the above comment did in fact not mention any specific nation but used the word "universally" which refers to the universe instead.
@@ChristophPech 😂
Thanks man. Very clear and easy to follow
Funny and saved me a sh*t load of money by doing it myself using this video
Thanks for the time to show us 👍I don’t know much about a/c but this was informative.
the thought that i have is that this channel will do better than the other one. especially if you continue doing wood shop stuff
Love this additional channel, just as funny as Aging wheels and I love DIY as well as cars.
I've installed 3 of these systems, Pioneer (Parker Davis HVAC) makes top notch stuff.
I haven’t started watching the video yet, but, from the comments, I can tell it’s going to be gold.
Edit: it was
Didn't even know you had another channel! I've put two of these units in this summer at two radio communications shelters - work awesome -- should also note they make 120V and 240V units; and the wifi modules work great!
Subscribed. Unprompted. All the best success with this channel, Robert.
Great sense of humor my friend! Definitely gave it a like.
A nice pull strip wrapped around the knurled knob that goes onto the schrader valve can let you spin them off pretty quick.
Awesome video, saved the product for later purchase 👍
The green wire seems smaller so it should really be ground.
And, it's green
@@emostorm7 yep, green or green-yellow is the standard color for earth
bahh, those are low voltage lines anyhow :)
not so sure about them being low voltage lines. he keeps calling them "signal wires" but why are they so think? the indoor unit doesn't have a mains connection of its own, so it's power. If not mains, probably a decently high DC voltage.
@@spambot7110 It's probably whatever mains voltage you have locally. Here in Europe, it's common for 1 and 2 to be L and N instead, denoting the live wires. This way you can supply power to the entire minisplit from a household socket through the interior unit (possible due to the more power allowed by 240V mains) elliminating the need for an outdoor power supply feed.
Making ac installation interesting .he is a goddddd
I think sending you a free split system might count as sponsorship man :P
Love that oil trap in your line set.......
You single handedly talk me out of buying a pioneer unit congratulations
Robert makes learning fun!... Well, he makes it funny!
How's she goin'? Heat pumps are fantastic. I just can't believe they work as good as they do!!! They are a miracle!! Nice install. Take care!!
How are your hands doing?
Gotta admit, I winced at the refrigerant spray. I've charged car A/C systems before, so I know what it's like so get sprayed.
That looked painful.
Seemed to rate low on the Swear Gauge, which is how I rate pain.
Hi! Great video! Just for trivia, what you call a pin connector is called a ferrule.
You remind me very much of Technology Connections, Great stuff :)
Nice Job and very entertaining!
Installed one in mine last Jan. I have been able stay in my shop more during cold weather and now when temps are in the 100's. If I turn it on, it takes about 15 min and it is just fine!
How big of an area and how strong of a unit if you font mind me asking?
@@russellrateike9465 15000 btu heat and air, that I have in my 2 car garage.
Very helpful video. However I do need to add one thing : do all your lineset management / wrapping / securing to the house before making the final connections. The connectors are really delicate and can easily be damaged if you do this after connection. I learned this the hard way when I sprung a leak in the system after successfully bringing it up (thinking I'll save the wrapping for last) .
As a result I would really recommend getting the torque wrenches (at the minimum from harbor freight) and also doing the nitrogen pressure test. A nitrogen tank turns out to be not so expensive to rent and regulator valves aren't expensive and it feels good to be able to test it closer to the 550 psi maximum operating pressure. Although I am not really sure it's safe to do that in this pioneer system so I tested it upto about 300psi.
For the winter months you👍🏻 might consider a ceiling fan in order to force the heated air down where needed.
Turn on the unit in cooling mode before you disconnect the pressure gauge, and you will find it is much easier to do because the pressure drops a lot on the service port. No need to worry about cold gas leaked out to damage your hand.
Anyone else want to see Robert open a can of biscuits?
Which? Wood or flour?
@@ELCADAROSA Flour for sure.
I just ordered the same model today. RV install.. it should be pretty easy.
Thank you so much! You answered exactly the question I had!!!!!
Man super cool of Pioneer to send you one for free!
Can't wait for more entertaining videos. Loving the second channel!!!
Your videos are always interesting and funny
Great Job, Robert. I enjoy your whit and candor.
Just found your channel. binge watched several vids. really enjoyed the content. Subbed :). keep up the good work
Pioneer now makes aircons 😍😍
I have an 18,000 BTU mini-split in my shop. Love it. I was very concerned about dust clogging the coils, so I built a box to sit on top with a 20x25 furnace filter to catch the dust. The filter’s surface area is 3X the area of the mini-split’s inlet, so there isn’t much resistance to air flow. I religiously change the big filter every month. So far my coils have remained clean.
All of the OCD folks and electricians died on that non-ground green wire 🤣. Great video!
In regards to not having an open ended torque wrench.
If you have luggage scales and know the length of your spanner you don't need one
Eg. Need 15ft/lb and have a 6in wrench? Pull on the scale till 30lb
Force=ftlb/feet
Jonathon van der Wijngaart handy thanks!
*assumes your luggage scale is reasonably accurate, no doubt
Informative...including right and wrong ways, thx!
How is the Pioneer mini split holding up 2 years later?
This is the channel, where the side projects get dunn
Good video, love your humor
If you have spare energy, try mounting the outside unit on something a little taller and then place a bucket under the condensation drain. That way you might have less water related problems with the foundation (or not, depends how wet your foundation already is). I'm surprised the installation manual didn't instruct to do this.
Anyway, great video, you're already the biggest competitor to "This old house" channel! ;)
great sense of humor
The AVE's ahhh click always works!
I do the refrigerant lines a little differently. I open it for 5 seconds like this, but disconnect the gauge when still closed then open. it won't drain out that way and both the lines and system are still full.
Try using some ball valves on the end of your refrigerant hoses to keep the refrigerant from in your hoses from going on your hands when you take them off
Amazing video!!! Thank you for this!!
LOVE the humor! "... to avoid an early death..." lol! I'm about to install my 12,000 Pioneer myself when it arrives next week and using your video as a step-by-step reference... hahaha I am a complete novice. If there are any words of advice, please let me know! But your vid looks awesome and thorough... so yeh. Haha pray for me!
For the positive pressure leak check skip the soapy water - go to your hardware store of choice and get some liquid leak detector designed for natural gas appliances - it's much thicker and does a far greater job at showing slow leaks. And it's not expensive either.
And hook the green ground wire to ground :p
DocNo27 thanks for the input so far! And mine is a 230v 12000BTU 19 SEER... is it a 10/2 or 10/3 wire I should be getting when wiring to my fuse box?
How did it go? I have the 12,000 BTU 230v unit (exact same as yours) and I am SUPER nervous about doing this. Wiring is no biggie but I am dreading the actual balancing and pressurizing work. Did you use the tools he linked on Amazon?
@@BriNJ1983 Sorry - apparently I didn't get notification on your comment. Check what they have in the installation guide; it should specify. If you have longer length you may have to put in larger gauge cable - I put an induction stove in and had to use service entrance cable since I was about 80 feet from the fuse box (about as far as one could be - was rather annoying). It was right on the edge so I errored on the side of caution.
TheFNGBenJammin i ended up returning the equipment I bought on Amazon, and using a referred HVAC guy. He was a tad expensive but I ended up having too much going on and didn’t want to risk messing anything up. I also bought the (I think it was) 25’ tube/wiring, and where I wanted to put it the HVAC guy said it wasn’t ideal (up against an interior wall) so we switched it, and I only needed like 10 feet,, so the excess would need to be cut. At that point I just said “screw it” and let the guy do it. Labor was about $1k. ::sighs:: but at least I know it was done right and no excess, etc.
I also had to use an electrician because one video I watched said use a double 15 pole breaker, another said 30 double.... so I also said “screw it” and got a electrician. That ended up being another $325 for everything (I am hoping that is a good price because he’s a friend lol)
Had a lot of personal stuff plus increased school work land on me, so didn’t want the added drama of the HVAC going wrong. 😑
BUT THE PIONEER works GREAT in my garage thus far 👍🏼
Some split units I have seen, come with nitrogen gas built-in, so that you can test your fittings for leaks before you release the actual refrigerant.
"Pioneer did not sponsor this video but they did send me this 9000 BTU unit at no cost." Ummm..... GREAT video though. You make it look super easy.
Excellent description.
Looks good 👍 but as an HVAC tech I wouldn't loop the line set like that causes it to be an oil trap
Also if you don't want to risk losing your 410A charge pre-testing your wine set with nitrogen is the preferred method
I have installed a few of those pioneer there decent for how cheap they are obviously there no Mitsubishi mini-split but not everyone can afford those
This was really helpful wrt the refrigerant vacuum service port whatever. I'm looking at these things and hoping that I can learn what else they can do in the years to come, but at least I can maybe not cave and just call a guy to finish this project. Also - The communication cable sent with these Pioneer units in 2021 is not rated. If are concerned about why or just want/need to do a NEC21 permissible job, you will need to make your own 12/3 nm wiring.
"Click." That was great!
Turns out, Rob is pretty good at making videos and is pretty entertaining. Laughed a little, felt a little depressed as well, just like real life.
WoW! What a great piece o kit, Nice job.
You rock! Best air con video going! Hahahaha
Great video! Thanks for sharing!