Applying a Second Coat of Art Resin Clear Epoxy to Your Art
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2015
- BUY ArtResin here www.artresin.com/
say you get a cat hair, bug of dust in your cured resin... BUMMER. here is how you apply a second coat to make it flawless like art resin should be!
check out www.artresin.com for tons more helpful tips and tricks. - Навчання та стиль
The method is very clear, I would like to see the results, thanks!
Thank you so much!! You 'saved my life'. Your video is short, simple and informative. Just perfect!! 🙂
Thanks Teia! So happy we could help! Don't forget- we are always available to answer specific questions about ArtResin, just email us at support@artresin.com if you can't find the answer on our website or UA-cam channel 🙂
Thank you very much.
I have a question! Is it possible to apply art resin on a normal canvas for my paintings? (I use spray paint) or would it need to be a all wood canvas? Would appreciate a reply!! Thank you!
can Art Resin go over the Famowood glaze brand ? 1st coat has imperfections on painting need second coat would like to make it right this time!
Hey ,can we use thermocol type material in resin art?
Is it necessary to Sand before second coat
What grit of sand paper to use?
Love love love these videos!!
so glad you're finding them helpful, Sheryl!!
ArtResin I have taught and inspired me soo much w these videos
I FINALLY tried Art Resin (I soon will. Purchasing more) it was soo different from the crap from Micheals .. wasn't heavy was easy breezy it was SUCH a tremendous difference and just by watching I am less intimidated now than ever! So thank u again!
YAY :)
a nice thing to read thank you!
ArtResin 💜 1 question - people on pouring sites are saying resin is NOT heatproof (which I kno it is coffee or heat or slightly warmer) but they are using this engine gloss spray do u kno what that is? They are saying (of course I disagree) but for coasters resin is fine it a coffee cup for crying out loud
But it's been a HUGE discussion that the engine gloss is more reliable heat wise but key word in the title "engine" was curious about ur thoughts
Hi Sheryl! Absolutely you can use ArtResin on a coaster! The heat from a hot mug won't damage the surface. But hotter temperatures ( like a casserole dish right out of the oven ) may be too hot for the resin surface, so we don't recommend that ArtResin be used for hot plates.
It's recommended for use up to 120° F - so a coffee cup is just fine!!
Hey, I applied a second layer after 24 hours of 1st layer but without using sand paper , and now the second layer isn't settled yet , it's a little sticky and the edges are kind of melting , it's been 25 hours and I am clueless to what do I do to dry it in and settle it ,my coaster is ruined.Please help
Ciao n che gradazione è la carta vetrata che hai usato?
Hey hi!
Super nice tip of giving a grip for the second coat by sanding it. But I'm stuck making too many resin letters in less time and I have added thin layer of second coat without sanding the first coat and its not drying up completely even after 1 complete day. Edges are gelly and it is taking my fingerprints when trying to check the hardness. Can you please help me through this?, I'm scared since i have very less time to give away my art.
After you sand it down and clean it up before the 2nd coat will you the scratches through the 2nd coat
Absolutely not :)
After you sand, it will look like you've destroyed it, but I promise that when you pour on the fresh layer of resin, it will fill in all the scratch marks from the sandpaper and will look beautifully clear once again :)
What if you put down a layer with color and theres not enough to go around and the edges didn't get enough color. Can you add a second layer with the same color on top of that with this method? I was doing a marble look table and the white wasnt enough to finish the table completely. theres little sections with not enough and holes in it. Should I just fill in those areas with the white color. How will it look with making black veins in the second coat and on top of the first coat?
Hi Scott! Your table sounds great!
So typically, we always recommend when doing a second coat that you apply a fresh layer of resin over the entire piece, rather than just in spots. It's very difficult to patch fix ... you can almost always see the seams between the first and second layer. You will absolutely get an even, level, flawless finish by pouring a whole fresh coat.
That being said, because you're going for a marble look with lots of variation with color etc and your resin is white, not clear, you may be able to get away with patch fixing.
I would say experiment with patch fixing and see what your results are. If you aren't pleased, or the seams between the 2 layers are too obvious, by all means, give the entire piece a light sanding including the patch job once it has dried and pour a fresh coat over the whole thing.
As far as making black veins in the first coat and in the second, by all means, yes! Lots of artists get some really cool effects by painting in between layers. You will get a bit of a 3D look this way.
Is that a can of compressed air to blow off the excess from sanding?
ya to get rid of dust and stuf :)
I keep getting round holes where the resin refuses to coat randomly over my painting is there a sealer that can be used prior to the resin? I have tried everything to stop this from talc powder and alcohol wipe
Hi Claudia! Sounds like you're describing what is known as fish eyes, voids or divots.
It's a common issue and basically, something on the surface of your artwork is repelling the resin and preventing it from sticking to those spots - it can even be the natural oils from your hands. Take a peek at our video Oh Sh*t! - Voids where Patty explains why these spots might occur and what you can do to fix it :)
ua-cam.com/video/m7j7AcmgCvQ/v-deo.html
I made a coffee table with wood but there is a part that is too tight for me too reach in and sand sand then wipe clean can I pour in the spot anyway with no problems or do I have too Demold and re mold to sand that small area
It should be ok. The sanding just gives the resin some tooth so that the next layer will adhere strongly. If you can't gain access to a small area it will likely not cause you any problems.
Hello the amount of resin on the second code should be the same amount as first? Can it be thinner? Can i also put just on the area instead of the whole piece?
You will want to apply the same amount for your second coat as you would for your first coat. You don't want to pour too little or the resin may not cover fully as it self levels. We find that spot fixing will never look perfect and it is always better to pour a full new coat.
I sanded down my surface and want it to be glossy again. If I paint on a second coat, will the matte sanded surface show through?
Hi Julianne! You can pour or paint on a second coat, yes! And your matte surface will not show through!
Im about to do a second coat on a piece that flash cured. Ive sanded it but after wiling down still has a lot of white from the sanding. Do I need to clean it a different way before my next coat?
Hi Shanna,
The white scratchy dull finish that happens when you sand should all disappear when the next layer of ArtResin is applied. Just pay close attention to cleaning off all of that sanding dust so that it doesn't mix in with your fresh resin pour. If your piece that you are coating had a flash cure, you may find the resin has yellowed a bit due to the heat, so it may not come out as perfectly crystal clear as it would have had it not flash cured.
Hello I made a coffee table with clear epoxy resin on top, everything was going great but then in one area there was big bubbles and then we tried to get rid of them with the torch but I think it made it worst, so it needed up with within big bubbles and a big spot uneven, it’s horrible only in that area, what can I do?
oh, I"m sorry to hear this Gabriela - spot fixing is very difficult to do, you won't end up with a nice level coat of resin and you'll be able to see where you patched it. What you'll need to do is sand out the bubbles and uneven areas, and then give the entire piece a good sanding to rough up the surface. Wipe up all the sanding dust, then pour a fresh coat of resin over the entire piece. It will self level and even out the uneven areas, and it will look perfect again!
I would like to put this over uneven stick and peel aluminum subway tiles that is around my platform jetted tub to give it an even thick glass like finish. Will this even it out and can it also be applied to the vertical tiles? What techniques do you recommend for applying it on vertical surfaces?
Multiple thin coats! It is a thick liquid, so if you apply too much, you will see run lines! apply it with gloves hands... just rub it on! and then run a torch over the surface really fast and it will get super smooth. :) do as many layers until you are happy! horizontal surfaces are 1000 x easier :)
Hi, thank you for the cool & helpful video. I have made a big resin geode artwork and I really spent so much time with it (2 weeks). I’ve used different medias and I have some uneven spots where I poured another layer due to imperfections. It’s not possible to sand it. Can I just clean it with alcohol before the top coat. Will it work? I am really afraid to ruin it. Please help! 🙏
The sanding step provides tooth to the next layer of resin to help it to adhere strongly. I wouldn't recommend applying alcohol to your cured resin surface as it can damage the surface.
@@Artresin Thank you for the response. I thought alcohol is good for cleaning and removing fat before they do the topcoat Many artists use it. Will the resin layers not stick to each other? I already did it and it looks good so far.
@@saidalimam7201 Glad it worked out :)
Before I watched your video...I added a second coat of resin to my table top without sanding. Will it eventually separate? :(
Hi Yvette - best practice to make sure you get the best adhesion between layers is to sand. It's hard to say if it will delaminate, or if you'll get little air pockets. If it happens, though, you can simply sand it down to sand out the layer that's separating, and then apply a fresh coat. Resin is super forgiving :)
Can we do the same thing on glass...
Yes, ArtResin will stick to glass!
Hi how can we prevent the resin surface from getting scrached.
Hi Humaira, ArtResin is scratch resistant but it's not scratch proof ... so if you cut bread on it with a knife, for example, or drag something rough overtop it will get scratched. Some of our customers like to put a coat of varnish or polyurethane on top for extra protection if they are using ArtResin on a surface that will be exposed to more wear and tear. Your hardware store will be able to guide you as to which are compatible with epoxy resin.
I made a resin piece and a hair was in it after 12 hours. I took the hair out at used the heat gun on it causing cloudy areas can I resin over it to correct or hide this?
Hi Pat! Yes you should be able to sand down/out the cloudy areas and pour again without issue :)
very useful.tu
awesome! thank you!
What do you think of just a light sanding then a coat of clear gesso since it has a grit to it? Or can one just apply the clear gesso instead of sanding between coats?
Hi Janine, if you are going to sand there is no need to apply the gesso. The sanding is just to give tooth to the next layer of resin.
@@Artresin sometimes not sure how much it should be sanded. It a lightly scratched up surface sufficient even if it still looks shiny?
@@JanineMKartist We typically use an 80 grit sandpaper and sand the surface completely-you are essentially just creating tooth for the next layer of resin to adhere to.
One of my mixed media pieces isn’t a totally flat plane due to the mixed media elements that created some dips in the surface. I’m concerned when I apply my first coat of resin it will accentuate that and look wavy. Any tips for what I can do I guess between coats so that I can get a nice flat final coat ?
Hi Janine, Depending on how much variance there is in your piece you may have to do a few coats. However ArtResin is self leveling so it will want fill in the low spots first and try to even out across the piece. I would do one coat and see where that leaves you, you can pour your second coat 3-5 hours later while the resin is still tacky so that you can avoid the sanding step in between. Once you have enough layers on your piece to cover it entirely you will have a smooth level high gloss finish :)
ArtResin thanks. That’s great!
What is the best way to clean up the resin dust after sanding so that it’s not floating in the next coat?
Some artists will use a spray bottle with water to mist the air to get the dust to settle before applying another coat
Do you have to sand between coats? Or can you just pour on directly after?
+issac2trill sand if is is cured and hard. you can pour another coat while it is in it 'gel' stage and the two layers will merge together! (after 2-4 hours...) sanding does help add some grip! best to do but not necessary.. just a safety measure for longevity!
+ArtResin Ok thanks. I have a vanity top i applied epoxy resin to and on the routed edges it stayed rough so I want to put a 2nd coat on over it. Its been about 3 weeks cured.
+issac2trill gotcha. ya use a hand power sander :) it will look super scratchy... but don't panic! it will be perfect when you pour on top again! PROMISE!!!!
I want to paint with gauche or acrylic paints between pours. Should I sand before I paint? Will resin stick to the paint that is on the first layers of resin?
Hi Alicia - you can definitely use gouache or acrylic on resin. I would definitely sand in between layers though ... it's best practice to make sure the existing resin layer adheres to the fresh layer and it will prevent delamination ( the 2 resin layers separating ) down the road. And yes, the resin will stick to the paint.
ArtResin thanks for the help!
So pour, sand, paint, pour...
yup, you got it! Your layer should be dry enough to sand at the 24 hr mark. It looks so cool painting in between layers ... take a peek at our videos for Marc Scheff under Conversations with Artists and Featured Artist playlists - he is a master as this, using gold leaf, and even sketching with coloured pencils on the sanded resin. And our latest blog post features an artist named Melissa Moss who also paints in between layers - her IG has some cool shots showing how she does this: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/ames0513-is-our-lucky-artresin-winner-for-march
Have fun!!
hi ! hopefully you respond because i’m very curious . i’m currently working on a art project . i glued pictures down to my canvas , then put mod podge on top of the pictures , i let that dry then put sparkles in my epoxy clear cast resin mix then poured that top of the pictures , i wanted to pour a second layer over the pictures so it could be more sparkles .. would the second layer of the resin mess the pictures up ?
Hi there :) No it shouldn't do any damage your pieces are already coated you are just adding more on top of the current resin.
ArtResin perfect ! thanks so much !
i have some slighty sunken worm pocket looking things on mine. some are like slightly sunken puddles. should i sand that down extra? what makes this happen?
Crappy eh. There could be something oily on the surface repelling the resin, or you didn't use enough! You can fill up the craters, let it cure, sand the patches so the surface is all flush, and pour a second coat. Pain in the ass but best way to resolve this!!!
this is my 2nd coat that it happened on. i sanded it down. its not completely flush. do you think i should be using more mix this time. currently I'm using 8ozs per A B . the canvas is 2 by 3. I seem to get lil pits and stuff and thats why i use the 2nd coat to cover that up a bit more. am i doing something wrong? the painting isnt always smooth obviously and it seems like the epoxy will show that if it hits a small bump from small excess paint. any thoughts?
2' X 3' is 6 sq ft. 8 oz combined does 2 sq ft. 6 sq ft should use 24 oz. so 12 resin and 12 hardener!!! Try that. If you still get pits, there might be oil on the surface or something that is repelling the resin. You can preseal with varnish first too maybe. Sorry for the slow reply, we just had another baby! Busy busy tired!
I never pre seal any painting. Maybe i should be doing that first? What do you use? Any varnish from the paint Store ? I dont know anything about varnish. Its like spaceship talk to me. How much should i use for a coat? Is it just regular brush and coat on simple?
thanks for your help!!
Well, usually you don't need preseal at all! Just as an experiment to see if this stops the craters!!! More $ for a varnish means less fillers. It's all stinky stuff. Using a roller is what I do. Roll on sideways. Let dry 10 min. Roll on lengthways. Let dry. Do 4 coats. Again just as a test and hopefully not necessary!
Do I have to use the same amount of resin as if I was applying the first coat? Or do I need less resin for the 2nd coat?
Normally you will use the same amount unless you just plan to do a thin brush on coat then you can use just a little less :)
I watched an artist who recommends doing 50% of the recommended amount for the first coat and 60% of the recommended amount for the second. I did find it a bit tricky to get the whole surface coated with the first 50% coat though . Doing it this way you end up using a bit more than if you just did one coat but saving if you did the full amount twice. That artist also said don’t worry about the imperfections in the first coast because you’ll clear them up with sanding then a second coat. I’m contemplating using a bit more than 50% next time for my first coat to make spreading it out a bit easier. Or what I did with my first piece was full amount first coat and 60% for the second .
Sometimes the scratches from sanding shows though in some places. Why is that?
Hi Jeanette, please reach out of our customer service team at support@artresin.com and include any pictures you might have. Our customer service team would be happy to help.
Do I have to sand every coat that I apply? I did 2 days ago and the surface doesn't seem even
Hey Neize - if the coat is cured, then for sure, you'll need to sand to give it some tooth for the next coat to adhere to.
When you say the surface doesn't seem even, do you mean it's not level or that it didn't cure evenly?
If it's not level ... did you give your entire piece a fresh coat of resin?
We recommend coating the entire piece rather than just patching one specific spot, otherwise you will see the seams and you won't have a level surface.
If you did coat the entire piece, did you apply enough resin?
ArtResin self levels so providing you poured enough, it should level out evenly to a thickness of 1/8".
The last possibility I can think of without seeing it is that maybe your piece wasn't level to start with? If the piece is sitting on an angle, you won't get a nice even coat. We always use a level before we pour.
Good news is that if you're not happy with the finish you have, just give the whole piece a light sanding and pour on a fresh coat!
If it didn't cure evenly, do you have sticky spots? That could be from not measuring accurately or undermixing. You'll need to scrape off the sticky spots, sand the dry spots and you can re apply a fresh coat :)
Let me know if I can help with anything else!
I think the problem was that the epoxy was not enough, so it does not seem to be level. I'll sand and apply another layer. I want a thicker counter.
Thank you for your attention! God bless your business!
Thanks Neize.
Good luck with your next layer - let us know if you need any more help :)
So is the goal to sand the imperfection out as well as give the second coat of resin tooth? Or do you just need to sand the whole piece and not sand the imperfection out because the next coat of resin will hide the dust anyway?
You want to sand down for two reasons:
1) to sand out the imperfection
2) to sand the whole piece overall to rough up the surface. Doing this will create some tooth for the fresh resin layer to adhere to.
After you sand, you want to wipe up all the sanding debris, then apply your fresh resin layer.
All the sanding marks will get filled in and you'll never know they were ever there!
Question what Sandpaper we can use for second layer,I mean what number of sandpaper??.
Can the same technique be used if you find bubbles after the resin has cured?
+Richard McDonald yup - really depends on how deep the bubble is but usually a great solution.
note: when you sand, the bubble hole will fill up with the white powder from the sanded resin. pick this out with a toothpick...
good luck!
+ArtResin Excellent! I'll give it a try. Thanks for the advice! You guys are awesome!
Also is it waterproof?
YEs! Super water proof. Our resin was derived from the marine industry: usedon the bottom of boats!
What grit of sandpaper should be used as the final step before one re resins?
we use 80 grit
Thank you!!
I see you only sanded in one area, does that mean you only added the second coat to that one area? or the whole piece?
we sanded the entire surface and pour a whole fresh coat.
ArtResin I figured. Thanks!
Hi, can you help me? I bought the resin to use on a huge coffee table with a recessed area (and a raised edge all around). I wanted to seal all my grandbabies' artwork and photos in it. Apparently, I didn't seal the papers adequately because after the resin was poured (about a week ago) a lot of my favorites turned clear and splotchy, as if someone had spilled cooking oil all over them. I felt like sitting down and crying! The table, itself, cured beautifully, but my grandbabies' pictures! 😢
I've managed to find some of the art on various hard drives and devices and have printed them out. I spent the last two days covering them, front and back, with acrylic lacquer and now, today, I've used Modge Podge as final insurance, just reassuring myself that they are properly sealed this time.
I have two questions: must I sand the entire table top before I place the new artwork strategically over the ruined artwork? Also, what is the method you recommend for adhering the pics to the previous resin-top before pouring the new top-coat of resin?
Here is a pic of my table and thank you so much for any help you can offer.
boxopics.com/user/elizasgrammy/IMG_3086.jpg
Well... My life dictates that this is the only day for several weeks that I can do this, so I guess I won't wait for a reply, ha! This is how I'm going to do it and I guess you can just me, later, how I was wrong.
I've just sanded the top of the table, not vigorously, but just enough to rough it up with 80 grade sandpaper. I've cleaned off all the sanded dust. I've decided to pour Modge Podge where I want the pictures to go, then place the pictures and let that dry and then, if they seem fastened securely to the table top, pour the resin. That's about all I can see to do.
So I'm going in! (I'll post back, if anyone cares, although, why should they?)
Hi there!
Oh my goodness, I feel for you!! The same thing happened to me with some Christmas art my 2 boys made at school ... I didn't seal them first and they got totally ruined and can't be replaced, so I totally understand how you feel.
Sorry I didn't get back to you this morning - lots of customer service to catch up on every day ( and you are always welcome to call us here at the studio Mon-Fri at 1877 401 4001 ) but your plan is exactly what I would have recommended: lightly sanding the top of the table, mounting the photos using glue ( ModPodge is fine too ), making sure they're nice and flat ( even going over them with a rolling pin is fine to get rid of any air bubbles ) and then pouring a fresh coat. You may see the original photos underneath and may end up with almost a 3D effect but if they are pretty much right on top of eachother, it shouldn't be too noticeable.
So moving forward in the future ... you didn't do anything wrong :) Paper can be tricky with ArtResin - softer or lower quality papers like construction paper, printer paper, even some photographs can absorb the resin and then you get the dark spots from where the resin has soaked through. Usually glossy photos tend to work a little better with ArtResin because the gloss finish allows the resin to sit on top rather than getting soaked in.
With any paper, we always advise experimenting first if you're unsure, and you can never go wrong erring on the side of caution and sealing paper/photos first before you resin.
Hope this helps - let us know how your next coat goes!
Thanks so much for the reply and for understanding about my issue with the artwork! Well... I'm 90% happy, meaning that the resin, itself, behaved beautifully but, this time, a couple of photos gave me grief. They didn't bleed through, though. It's just that, although I practically drowned them in glue and let them set, they tried to lift heir corners after the resin was poured, so they are sticking up just through the surface. 😕
I guess I"ll have to pour one more flood coat but I'm not sure there's enough room for it to cover. I've protected the legs and I'm just going to let it flood over the edges and then clean that up with it hardens.
Here goes nothing. 😊
ah, I hope those pesky corners behave themselves with your next pour! Tape might be a good ally here to protect any areas of the table you don't want covered in resin. You can pull off the tape when the resin is touch dry ( possibly even at 8-12hrs, definitely by 18-24hrs ) and all the sticky mess/drips will pull off with the tape.
You can use painter's tape ... I normally advise something like sheeting tape or duct tape but that might be too sticky and may pull the finish right off the wood. A lower tack tape like painter's tape might be a good option .. just make sure to pull it off as soon you can before the resin really has a chance to bond ... painter's tape is more porous and can soak up the resin, so if you leave it for the full cure, it can be very difficult to remove. Best of luck - you'll get there!! 😊
Wow, I'm glad I stopped back by here before the next pour, because I'll just bet I'm using the wrong tape! Thanks so much! 😊
what grit sandpaper?
We favor 80 grit :)
My art resin yellowed in the bottle. Do you know what might have caused that?
Hi Debra, over time and with exposure to the air the ingredients in the hardener will oxidize and start to darken in colour. This does not affect how your ArtResin will cure, it just means that you may want to save older bottles for applications where you are adding colourant or pouring over a darker background. We recommend using your ArtResin within 12 months of the date of manufacture and within 6 months after opening for the optimal clarity. For all the details, have a look at our blog:
www.artresin.com/search?type=article&q=yellow+hardener
@@Artresin thank you
Could you just sand down the imperfection and only apply second coat there?
Unfortunately, we don’t recommend spot fixing for the simple reason that it’s actually very difficult to sand out a small area where there might be an issue, such as a bubble, hair or even a bit of dust that settled into your wet resin. It's almost impossible to get a seamless finish by pouring a fresh patch of resin on top of the original resin coat. Instead, we recommend that you sand down the entire surface and pour another well mixed, well measured coat of ArtResin over the entire piece for an even, flawless finish :)
Hi, i have ordered some of your art resin to do a large casting of a photo and some gravel plus a few small charms, the piece is around 16 inches by 27 inches and is 10mm deep, can this be done in one pour? I cant find anywhere that says the max thickness your resin can be poured in one go, thanks for any advice
the thicker the pour, the more chance you have or bubble not releasing. id suggest you try and do a number of thin pours and then you can have objects floating at different levels. this is safest :) you can pour the next coat after 2 hours while the artresin is still like 'gel' and then the 2 layers merge together and all bubbles should be released :) using a torch is still best practice too!
+ArtResin thank you for your reply and advice I very much appreciate it, i will aim to do 3-4 pours as like you say i don't want to risk having bubbles as the background is black, do you have any experience with using stone gravel and resin? As the gravel is my main concern, i have seen that people stir sand into resin before casting it also i see when people cast small shells that they dip them in resin first, do you think i should put the gravel in some resin first before spreading it where i want it? I appreciate you are most likely very busy so if anyone else reading this can advise me i would appreciate guidance, thank you
well you might not like my answer... the answer is YES. do all that you said. and see what works best for you :) None of your ideas sound like they will make things explode :)
Do you use the torch in between layers?
you torch right after you pour each layer to get rid of bubbles while it is still wet :)
I resined over a pour painting and There we're "holes" or gaps where resin didn't stick. I cleaned any residue off and poured a second coat and there are several other spots where resin pulled away like empty puddles. Am I not using enough resin?
Hi Patricia! Ugh, sounds like you are dealing with the dreaded Voids - basically bare spots where something has repelled the resin and prevented it from taking. We have a video addressing this very issue, where Patty suggests cleaning off the residue with mineral water ( like Perrier ).
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/oh-sh-t-ep-3-divots
If cleaning off your piece didn't get rid of all the residue and the bare spots happened on your 2nd pour, you will need to seal your piece. We suggest using Golden's Clear Leveling Gel - it dries clear and the resin will adhere to it - this should solve your problem!
do you put the golden gel all over the project or just in the bare spots?
also if I put the golden gel on my project before I resin do I still have to sand the 1st coat?
Hi Colleen - for a nice, even coat - you need to apply it over the whole project :)
Yes, you need to sand the project down to remove whatever residue is repelling your resin and to provide some tooth for the fresh coat to adhere to.
Hi, what sandpaper are you using?
How fine or coarse should it be?
Hi Jacqueline - we usually use 80grit sandpaper here at the studio :)
What grit?
We use a fairly course paper, usually 80 grit. The sanding will not only remove the imperfection but it will give the surface some tooth so that the next layer of resin adheres strongly.
My first resining and I didn’t protect my tiles etc and found dust particles after it dried. Do I need to sand each one prior to putting on the second coat? I may just live with it, after all it’s just a coaster. 😂
Totally up to you, but if you do want to get rid of the dust, you'll need to sand down your tiles, enough to get rid of the dust particles, and make sure you sand down the entire thing ( you want to rough up the surface to create tooth for the fresh resin layer to adhere to )
Then, pour your fresh coat - the scratch marks will disappear and your piece will look perfect again!
I did it, and it's still sticky after 3 days why :(
Sounds like you didn't mix the right ratio of resin and hardener. Or you didn't mix it thoroughly.
hi! i've seen a bunch of videos that recommend gradually increasing the # grit of sandpaper (like this ua-cam.com/video/1LWvnPx1S3U/v-deo.html)... is that in place of just sanding with one grit + adding another layer of resin (like your video)? or does it make a difference if we use various # grit papers before adding the resin?
Hi, we recommend using at least an 80 grit sandpaper to really give some tooth for your next layer of ArtResin to adhere to. 80 grit sandpaper is also great at removing any imperfections like cat or dog hair, or bits of dust that may have gotten into your resin artwork while it was curing. The good news is, you will not see the scratch marks after your pour your next layer of ArtResin. Take a moment to visit our blog and let us show you :) www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/will-the-scratch-marks-from-sanding-be-visible-under-a-second-coat-of-resin?_pos=1&_sid=e01f97c4a&_ss=r
The only thing stopping me from buying bulk amounts of artresin is its international shipping costs :(
I hear ya! So expensive to ship!! Where do you live? We have international distributorS!
Victoria, Australia. any suggestions for AUS customers? thanks
???
we are working on being available in your neck of the woods by the end of the year. until then you will have to purchase online via artresin.com
SOOOOOOON!!!!!
I think a respirator while sanding should be more of a priority than the hair net 😒 To all that are new to resin...please don't sand resin without a respirator. It is extremely toxic if inhaled. You all at ART Resin, should take this video down. Seriously!😡 He never once mentioned wearing PPE. Very sad that a company such as yours, is not interested in ensuring people use your products safely.
We are very concerned with safety, it is one of the primary reasons ArtResin was developed! It is true that many of the epoxy resin for sale is highly toxic and requires full PPE during use. ArtResin is different--it is non toxic and does not produce harmful VOCs and fumes. Once cured, ArtResin is fully inert meaning nothing can leach out of it. It is always a good idea to wear a dust mask while sanding wood or resin or anything else to prevent the dust particles from being inhaled, especially if you are sanding a large piece.
@@Artresin Your reply to my comment is what is wrong here. In your reply, you agreed with me that a mask is needed while sanding resin, yet you make no mention of editing this video or removing it. If you agree, then how difficult would it be to edit this video to let new users know of the dangers of sanding resin in the manner that he is showing so carelessly? My initial comment said nothing about your product and it's safety. It was the manner in which he was using it that was unsafe.
@@lindalester9151 Valid point, we can try to edit in a note on PPE while sanding. Thanks.
@@Artresin Thank you
@@ks1205 you're so welcome Kathy. I think they got the hint and hopefully will do the right thing. If it helps just one person, I'll be happy.
no mask necessary?!
+Sue Warhaftig Nope, no mask needed with ArtResin. It's certified non-toxic when used as directed.
+Sue Warhaftig No respirator needed! Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/9lm6ecqrzVM/v-deo.html
Yes you need a mask
I hope you make future videos without music; it's just annoying and distracting. thanks.
You say, " youjust pour it on like this"... but you don't show how you are spreading it...
Hi Patricia! Take a peek at our ArtResin 101 video series - there's a whole segment on how to properly pour - here's the link:
ua-cam.com/play/PL56BR0x4HHEFkzx2U649Ao09CzJnUbFIu.html
Omg. You absolutely need a good N95 mask when sanding resin. I can’t believe I’m even seeing this. Wow. 👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻
@@Artresin when you're sanding it the particles are TINY. You absolutely should not be breathing that in!!
@@vibratac Yes, it is a good idea to wear a dust mask while sanding to avoid breathing in the dust particles.