Greg, love your artwork! I'm mostly a wire wrapper and portrait psinter in charcoal, but have lost my center vision and haven't been able to do any portraits in a few years. Hoeever, I can appreciate your wonderful landscapes! Bravo!
THANK YOU SO MUCH 4 THIS! I have a 36" x 48" Wood Panel multi media cartoon painting I am doing. This will be the 1st time using resin and this really put my mind at ease as far as executing my final ambitions with all I will have going on. EDIT: And yes...BTW I subscribed!
Thank you so much! Happy this video was helpful. Feel free to reach out to customer service anytime (well, at least M-F, between 9-4 EST) if you have questions: 1 877 401 4001 or support@artresin.com
Great video! Thanks for sharing all your tips Greg. Question... where did you get those giant mixing pales with the measurements on them? I'm about to resin an 8ft panel and could use a couple of those. Also, are you able to reuse them over and over? Your work is beautiful by the way.
Your resin is by far the best I've tried for my art. Not always the cheapest or the most readily available in the UK, but I've used some truly horrible stuff that wouldn't cure even after a very long time so happy to pay a bit more for a good product.
This was an excellent video! Very helpful! I am about to resin my first 4x8ft panel and since wacthing this Ill be asking a friend to help with the application. :-)
Danke Manuela! Schauen Sie sich unbedingt unsere deutsche Website an, wir haben jetzt ein Lager in Deutschland und wir haben deutschsprachige Blogs auf unserer Website :) We♥Germany! de.artresin.com/blogs/blog
These cradled wood panels come already built with the brace. They are the best option for large resin art pieces as they support the weight better than stretched canvas
Wow this is awesome! Can you explain how using a box to cover your art piece does not produce more dust? Also, how long before you know you can put it under the box... I'm a beginner so trying to learn how to get the best out of Art resin. Are your panels custom made to fit the canvas? How do I go about getting one? Your Art is beautiful by the way!
Great questions! It's really important to make sure your dust cover is clean before you place it over your work. I always wipe mine out first with a damp cloth to pick up any dust, hair, etc (large plastic totes are sometimes easier to clean) and I always give my box or plastic tote a good couple of taps right before I place it over my wet piece, just in case there is anything I missed. It's really important to cut the flaps off of a cardboard box as these can fall and cure right it into your resin (it has happened to me!). You should put the dust cover over your piece as soon as you've finished torching and done a last check for bubbles or dust. You can purchase wood panels like the ones Greg is using in his video in a wide range of sizes - available at art stores. Hope that helps!
Thanks for tuning in. ArtResin works great over mounted photos as well! Have a look at our blog for an idea of what you can do: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-resin-a-large-photo?_pos=4&_sid=b54fd9e8b&_ss=r
Hi there. My question is Can I resin a poster board 23x28 cardboard.? Do i need a custom cut panel? Can you explain this beginning procedure to me? My poster is no thicker than a piece of paper with plastic frame. Have I already started off wrong? This is my first time in years since I worked with resin (high school was my introduction to creating with resin) Don't remember much of the process . Now I am 71. I am extremely excited to.learn again. I paint with acrylic paint , but that has become extremely boring. Thank you for your time and expertise. Respectfully. Patricia Welker (Trish)
Okay if it solid and won’t flex, tape the back edges on the bottom to peel Off drips once it’s cured. Have it up on stands off the counter. Or just have it on a shower curtain or shiny plastic. Have the poster board flat. Let it go over the edges and onto the plastic. Next morning cut the still soft resin with scissors. After a few days it will all the super hard. Slower cure for better long term clarity.
Can I ask do you ever use metal as a base rather than canvas. I am new to resin and trying to make a sea resin piece but I understand metal as a base is a better smoother finish. Any tips here if I use metal? Thanks
Yes metal is amazing with resin. If you look at metal under a microscope, it has ‘pores’. Artresin adheres well to metal. I had some photos printed on metal and resined them… amazing results especially if you have really high contrasts in your work and areas of white/lights that you can see through the resin. With the right type of metal you get amazing shimmering effects in the art. One ArtResin custom is selling prints of spectacular sunrises in the grand Grand Canyon, printed on metal and artresined… for like $10,000! Wood works great too that’s all I use for canvas. :)
Can you do a video on how to make a good drip tray for art work medium to large? I’m not happy with mine with foam board taped together. Not sturdy enough. I work on a round table that’s covered in drop cloth and plastic drop sheets.
Hi Maria! Thanks so much for watching! Resin will adhere to dry oil paintings - the key is that the oil painting must be completely dry, which can (as you know) take months, and possibly years depending on how thick it is applied. Once dry, the resin will adhere. Unfortunately, resin and wax, like encaustic or wax sealants, don't get along so I wouldn't use resin over top of these. It may adhere at first, but will delaminate, separate, or peel right off over time. Hope that helps!
Doing my first resin pour on a 36x36 wood panel mixed media collage. Great tips learned - don't have a drill mixer to create that froth! I am amazed it came out clear. Will it work if I just mix by hand?
We never use a drill mixer in our ArtResin studio, we always mix by hand. You can enlist the help of another set of hands and mix in two smaller batches if that makes it easier! Just be sure that your mixture is thoroughly combined to avoid any curing problems.
We are happy to tell you that ArtResin is non-toxic and does not produce fumes or VOCs. It has been evaluated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and has been designated non-toxic when used as directed and safe for home use in a well ventilated area! A respirator is not required when you are able to work in a well ventilated area.
ArtResin brand epoxy is being used. ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes or VOCs, so it is safe for home use in a well ventilated area. ArtResin has a light scent but it is not a heavy toxic chemical smell. Have a look at our blog that explains more about what you smell: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/44080897-whats-that-smell-explaining-epoxy-resin-odor?_pos=1&_sid=b70f13894&_ss=r
First I wouId like to congratulate you on this video. You have answered a lot of questions I had on the subject. But, unfortunately, I just don't have enough studio space to accommodate a resin pour. Do you suppose there is a professional printer, preferably in the Twin Cities area, that would provide that service?
We find the torch is the best tool for removing surface bubbles. If you do not have a torch, many artists use a heat gun instead. Here is a blog that explains more: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/why-use-a-torch-to-get-rid-of-bubbles-on-epoxy-resin?_pos=7&_sid=8781aee89&_ss=r
Amazin work. So I was wondering if someone could help. Sometimes during my work, after I put the resin on my artwork I get some oily marks on top of it. Does this have to do with resin quality?
You may be describing "amine blush" which happens as a result of too much humidity or moisture in the environment. If you are in a high humidity environment, try running a dehumidifier to bring the humidity lower.
The only way to do it is to sand it off. You can start with using an electric sander if the resin is thick, then as you get closer to the artwork just sand by hand. You probably don't need to completely remove all of the resin you can just sand it down to remove the imperfections, then clean all the dust off and pour another coat.
ArtResin won't ignite, but if you hold the torch in the same spot it will start to smoke and it can result in a scorched area. When using a torch you want to just kiss the surface of the poured resin with the flame, you will see the bubbles disappear. Keep the torch moving and try to avoid passing repeatedly over the same area.
Just wondering. The ratio is 1:1. I have gone through 3 half gallon sets and every time I get to the end the resin side has about 1/3 more than the hardener. Is it 1:1 by volume or weight? I have always measured with grams of weight on a scale for each part, always even parts. But I run out of hardener first every time.
The ratio is 1:1 by volume. While it is not the recommended measurement the ratio by weight would be 100:84 Resin to Hardener :) If you prefer weighing this should even you out.
ArtResin has a very small amount of flexibility built into it so that it will not be brittle when applied over a stretched canvas. It is a good idea to protect your artwork when shipping, have a look at our blog that gives you some ideas how: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-pack-art-for-shipping?_pos=1&_sid=f9e818d54&_ss=r
If you are pouring ArtResin over acrylic paint or oil paints, there is usually no need for a sealer--just ensure that the paint has had time to fully cure. If you are pouring ArtResin over alcohol ink on yupo paper for example, you should seal it with Kamar varnish to prevent the resin from re-activating the ink, and if you were pouring over watercolour paint on paper a sealer can help prevent the resin from absorbing into the paper and darkening it. Have a look at our blog on sealing to get a better understanding: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/should-i-seal-my-artwork-before-i-resin?_pos=3&_sid=81f291c23&_ss=r
You're using a propane torch to take the bubbles out .. Can you use a HEAT GUN instead or .. is that too much air pressure, etc ? Also - Is this epoxy self leveling ? As long as your piece is level ? Thanks .. I have never done this, but, am interested in it ..
You can use a heat gun, generally they do not give off too much air flow. We prefer to use a torch, you can pass the flame quickly to remove bubbles and it does not heat the resin up in that short time. Ensure your piece is flat and level and the ArtResin will self level to a thickness of about 1/8".
Looks great. have a question, i am based in India and cant buy the resin recommended,. tell me what should i look for in terms of specification or the resin, when trying to find local equivalents
Generally epoxy resin is not considered archival as all epoxy resins will show yellowing over time. There are effective UV stabilizers that are added to some epoxy resin to help prolong clarity and offer protection from UV damage, but eventually there will be degradation. An epoxy resin coating should be considered a permanent coating for your artwork so for best results keep your resined pieces protected from direct sunlight and high temperatures for best results.
Whether you seal your artwork or not really depends on what materials you are using. Typically acrylic paint or cured oil paints do not need to be sealed, but paper or porous surfaces would benefit from sealer. Have a look at our blog for more information: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/should-i-seal-my-artwork-before-i-resin?_pos=3&_sid=9441a0a25&_ss=r
Since ArtResin is such a pure formula and is non toxic and it does not produce fumes or VOCs, you do not need to wear a respirator when you are working with ArtResin. We do recommend working in an open well ventilated area rather than closing yourself off into a small confined closet :)
Hi Julien - you remove the tape after the resin has cured dry to the touch, typically around the 16-18 hr mark. You don't want to leave it much longer than that because as the resin cures, it becomes hard and the tape can rip and become difficult to remove.
This is a painting, done on a birch wood panel, rather than a photo. There are large format printers who can print your large photos, check online for one close to you.
Sorry to hear that you had some issues with your resin curing properly. When resin doesn't cure, it's almost always due to an error with the resin & amounts used or the mixture was under mixed. The good news is that you can fix this - first you need to scrape off any wet, liquid resin. If it's tacky, like the sticky side of tape, it's fine - but wet, runny areas of uncured resin need to be scraped off. Next, mix up another batch of resin, carefully measured and mixed according to the manufacturer's directions. Then pour on top and allow to cure. Hope that helps!
@@Artresin Thanks - maybe I'll give resin-ing canvas 1 last shot - I've tried reinforcing the back w/shims but the resin settles so that you can see the shape of the shims. Whenever I've done that, I've set the large canvas's frame on the top of risers.
Hi guys great video, how does your resin stand up to Amine Blush? I seem to have issues on and off with other (slightly) cheaper resins with blushing even when dried indoors in less humid spaces. I want to make a large purchase but just asking the question before hand...looking for reassurance really ha Cheers
Hey! Generally amine blush is not a concern unless you are in a really humid environment. For best results we recommend working in and maintaining a humidity level of about 50%, but even up to 80% is usually ok. If you are concerned you can set up a dehumidifier in your workspace and check weather forecasts.
@@Artresin Perfect thanks for the response, really good to know that it can handle the higher humidity environments. Will definitely be making the purchase at the end of the month. Cheers guys. Do you offer any artist affilated programmes at all? Thanks again
commentHow can I fix a canvas that is showing diamond dust particles? It would seem the little glass pieces are too large and did not submerge well and are noticeable when viewed at certain angles.
You can just apply a second layer of resin to cover any particles that are sticking out of your surface. Some artists leave them protruding as they like the look of it.
Hi, thank you both for an excellent video and artwork! I’m a beginner at resin and I have a 2 questions…1) where do you get the wood board with the hooks & wire already attached? 2) do you add a backing paper/cloth etc behind the board? Thank you, new subbie here 🥰👍🏽
Hi there, most cradled wood panels do not come with the hanging wire attached. You can purchase separate hanging kits or install your own preferred hardware yourself. We typically do not add any backing but that is entirely up to you!!
Hey there - this is a great question. We almost always recommend a torch rather than a heat gun, especially for large pieces. The heat torch zaps bubbles really quickly and efficiently from the surface of the resin, which means you can cover a large area in a very short amount of time, and the resin doesn't get over heated. The heat gun is not as efficient so you need to work the resin longer to pop bubbles - this means the resin can overheat (which promotes yellowing) and it's hard to cover a very large area efficiently. On a large piece, the resin may start curing before you cover the whole piece and treating it with a heat gun may cause surface imperfections. A heat gun also blows hot air so it can push your resin around and introduce dust and other contaminants into your wet resin. Having said all that - if you're working with silicone molds or alcohol ink, a heat gun is the way to go: a flame torch can damage silicone and alcohol ink is flammable, so you wouldn't want to introduce a flame anywhere near it. Heat guns are also great for fluid art when you want air to push the resin around to create cells, blend colours etc. Long answer to a short question - hope it helps!
@@lexhimself876 Happy to help! A second layer is totally optional. You might want to apply a second layer if there is something that needs to be fixed on the first layer (make sure you sand down the cured layer first to create some tooth for the fresh resin to grab onto), or you might need to cover areas of high relief, or you might just enjoy the look of a thicker coat. One thing to keep in mind with canvas is that epoxy resin is very heavy - so it could cause the canvas to sag so that the resin pools in the middle and is bare on the edges. One way around this is to 1) wedge cardboard cut to size in the back to help provide stability or 2) you can apply a thin coat of resin with a foam brush first to the back (and front if you want) to help firm it up before applying the main coat. You might want to consider wood panels for use with resin - they're sturdy and strong and can bear the weight of the resin. Here's a blog I wrote with more info, go down to point 4: Pouring Onto A Stretched Canvas. www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/bare-spots Hope that helps! :)
@Artresin ok great. The canvas im working with is a 48x48inch, and i already pour my first coat. However, i have a few spot, would u recommend me just going over the spot, or do i have to pour all over. thanks for your help
@@lexhimself876 Gotcha. Ok, if you're fixing some spots, this probably isn't the answer you want to hear :) BUT it really is best to pour a fresh coat over the entire surface. The reason is that it's really difficult to spot fix - the resin will self level, but you will still see the ridge around the little fresh resin spots you poured. But it all depends on your artwork - if you have a really busy piece with lots going on, it might just blend in. However, if you're standing off to the side and you see the reflection of the resin, you're going to notice them. Best practice is to sand the whole thing down with 80 grit sandpaper - make sure you remove whatever the imperfection is (if it's a bubble or dimple, or hair) and then just rough up the rest of the resin to create that tooth. Wipe all the sanding dust away (make sure you wear a mask while you do this so you don't breathe in the resin dust) and then pour your fresh coat. If you want, try spot fixing first and see what the results are like - if it looks good to you, then you're good! If not, then you can move on to Plan B and recoat the whole thing.
okay I was way too timid with the torch. I was worried I was going to like burn the resin so I didn't do it for very long and ended up with bubbles and stuff but apparently I can just blast that shit for like 15 minutes
Love the resin but just a heads up the online calculator is pretty far off. I had a 24x30 to coat and the calculator gave me 25oz, I mixed 34oz and barely had enough for the top, there wasn’t enough for the edges even with the 9 extra oz. Please make the calculator accurate to the sizes
You do not need to wear a respirator when using ArtResin as long as you are working in a well ventilated area. ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes, applying the heat from the torch is safe as long as you are not burning your resin.
We recommend removing the tape when you can safely handle your piece without causing damage. The longer the tape remains on, the harder the resin drops will cure and it will be tougher to remove.
Yes, you can use ArtResin over stretched canvas. The small ones work really well, when you use the larger ones we recommend supporting the canvas from behind using cardboard so that it doesn't sag under the weight of the resin.
Wondering why you weren’t wearing any protection? Respirator for you and her in the very least? Ventilation? Surprised those important factors were not mentioned.
ArtResin conforms to ASTM D4236, meaning it is certified as safe for home use and non-toxic when used as directed, however there are some safety precautions that every user should follow: Wear gloves. ArtResin is very sticky in its liquid form, so gloves will protect the user from a mess, as well as skin irritation. Clean skin promptly with soap and water if it does come in contact with ArtResin. If ArtResin somehow comes in contact with your eyes, flush with water repeatedly and do not rub. Promptly seek medical attention. Work in a well ventilated area. Wear a respirator if ventilation is poor. See our blog for further information: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-safety-precautions-should-i-take-when-using-artresin
Sorry to hear that! Once the resin yellows, not much can be done to reverse it. The only option is to sand it down (being careful not to damage your artwork) and repour. Several things can affect how quickly yellowing occurs in epoxy resin, but UV light exposure is the biggest issue. ArtResin contains UV light stabilizers to delay yellowing, but the sun is powerful. If your piece is exposed to direct light in a window or on a sunny wall, yellowing will happen sooner. And if your piece has a white background, it will be even more noticeable. Heat is another factor that can accelerate yellowing. This can be caused by over-torching, pouring thick layers, or exposing cured resin to high temperatures. Additionally, using acrylic paint that hasn't fully dried and titanium dioxide in titanium white paint can also cause premature yellowing.
@@Artresin….I think it’s important to give a step by step of your product, I had some issues with that! Also you don’t specify how to clean the surface if it’s oil or acrylic! I used mostly oil, but I also use copper and silver leaf which can leave a glue residue. What’s a good way to clean that! A step by step would help a lot! Thank you so much!
@@carlapayan-flores8613 Greg and Joanne go through most of the steps on how to prep your piece, how to measure, mix and apply ArtResin, for a more detailed step by step here is a link to our "ArtResin 101" video: ua-cam.com/video/Q8r9Fy5HzYQ/v-deo.html . If your paint is acrylic like Gregs painting in this video, you can pour ArtResin over your painting once the paint has thoroughly dried. If you are using oil paints you must wait for the oil paint to fully cure--this can sometimes take 6 months to a year! ArtResin works great over metal leaf, again just be sure the glue used dries clear and is fully dry prior to pouring your ArtResin overtop. Please reach out to us at support@artresin.com if you have any specific questions :)
First you have to know, and that shows that those who are speaking know very little about the resin, that it affects health and very strongly. Working with resin requires working with a respirator and an air filter. Second, the resin interacts with acrylic and oil colors.
We are happy to share that unlike many other epoxy resins, ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes and VOCs. Further, ArtResin has been evaluated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and has been designated non-toxic when used as directed and safe for home use in a well ventilated area. Have a look at our blog for more information: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/41788993-artresin-is-safe-for-home-use?_pos=2&_sid=906523318&_ss=r ArtResin works beautifully over acrylic paints and oil paints, we always recommend ensuring your paint is allowed to fully cure prior to applying ArtResin. When applied, ArtResin makes colours POP and become more vibrant bringing your artwork to life!
I was going to comment… there are many different types of resin. I find most art branded resins are designed for the mainstream consumer, and therefore safe. #duh
ArtResin is safe for home use and when used in a well ventilated area a respirator is not required. ArtResin does not produce fumes or VOCs and it is a pure formula, meaning everything in its formula reacts.
Artresin has no solvents. No fumes. I safely never wear a mask! The reason u don’t see no mask resin much is because it is much more expensive to manufacture safe resin. Artresin is safe. Made in USA. Factory in texas doesn’t need employees to wear masks. This is all certified, documented and tested 👍❤️
You do not want ArtResin to come into contact with your eyes. We typically do not find it to be a hazard in our standard pouring process, however if you find that you require protection for your eyes you should wear goggles while pouring.
ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes or VOCs. ArtResin has been evaluated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and has been designated non-toxic when used as directed and safe for home use in a well ventilated area! Check out our blog for more information on what safety precautions to take with ArtResin: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-safety-precautions-should-i-take-when-using-artresin?_pos=4&_sid=68840a34b&_ss=r
I know you mentioned that these are wood panels and that makes it easier for leveling purposes but, I have a lot of large pieces on canvas that I would like to resin…any tips to avoid sagging and pooling? Thanks in advance 😊
I’m glad you mentioned the ‘babysitting’ of them. It’s so true!
Thankyou so much for this demonstration. I love the finish and might get brave enough to try it when I have the space to work with it.
Grey Benz makes some of my favourite abstract art. Wonderful textures and colour schemes!
Awesome video - pleased you showed us how to get the measurements and shared the whole technique.
Man - it took that painting (WHICH I LOVE) and made it look like a METALIC print !!!!!
No word to say how beautiful this is.
Greg, love your artwork! I'm mostly a wire wrapper and portrait psinter in charcoal, but have lost my center vision and haven't been able to do any portraits in a few years. Hoeever, I can appreciate your wonderful landscapes! Bravo!
Turned out beautiful!! But the painting is beautiful itself. Lovely!! Thank,you!
What an amazing artist! The resin really makes it pop....beautiful piece of work.
Stunning work and the resin just makes it pop
I love this work, thanks for teaching it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH 4 THIS! I have a 36" x 48" Wood Panel multi media cartoon painting I am doing. This will be the 1st time using resin and this really put my mind at ease as far as executing my final ambitions with all I will have going on.
EDIT: And yes...BTW I subscribed!
Thank you so much! Happy this video was helpful. Feel free to reach out to customer service anytime (well, at least M-F, between 9-4 EST) if you have questions: 1 877 401 4001 or support@artresin.com
Thank you for sharing your technique and your beautiful art.
Just tell Greg is work is of outstanding performance well done
Great video! Thanks for sharing all your tips Greg. Question... where did you get those giant mixing pales with the measurements on them? I'm about to resin an 8ft panel and could use a couple of those. Also, are you able to reuse them over and over? Your work is beautiful by the way.
Your resin is by far the best I've tried for my art. Not always the cheapest or the most readily available in the UK, but I've used some truly horrible stuff that wouldn't cure even after a very long time so happy to pay a bit more for a good product.
Thanks Nat, you definitely get what you pay for :). Thanks for the support!
Absolutely stunning piece. Thank you for sharing your expertise 😍
I've been looking for some a video like this
Stunning work, thank you for sharing!
Beautiful work and helpful tips.
This was an excellent video! Very helpful! I am about to resin my first 4x8ft panel and since wacthing this Ill be asking a friend to help with the application. :-)
good luck :)
Wundervoll. Ich liebe die Bilder von Greg und Euer Resin. Manuela from Germany
Danke Manuela! Schauen Sie sich unbedingt unsere deutsche Website an, wir haben jetzt ein Lager in Deutschland und wir haben deutschsprachige Blogs auf unserer Website :)
We♥Germany! de.artresin.com/blogs/blog
How did he attach the cross braces in the back so it would sag in the middle? Beautiful work.
These cradled wood panels come already built with the brace. They are the best option for large resin art pieces as they support the weight better than stretched canvas
wonderful creations :D
Absolutely beautifull!
Great video. Would have liked a little more detail on how you finished the sides
Simply use a gloved hand to spread/wipe a thin coat of resin on the edges :)
Wow this is awesome! Can you explain how using a box to cover your art piece does not produce more dust? Also, how long before you know you can put it under the box... I'm a beginner so trying to learn how to get the best out of Art resin. Are your panels custom made to fit the canvas? How do I go about getting one? Your Art is beautiful by the way!
Great questions! It's really important to make sure your dust cover is clean before you place it over your work. I always wipe mine out first with a damp cloth to pick up any dust, hair, etc (large plastic totes are sometimes easier to clean) and I always give my box or plastic tote a good couple of taps right before I place it over my wet piece, just in case there is anything I missed. It's really important to cut the flaps off of a cardboard box as these can fall and cure right it into your resin (it has happened to me!).
You should put the dust cover over your piece as soon as you've finished torching and done a last check for bubbles or dust.
You can purchase wood panels like the ones Greg is using in his video in a wide range of sizes - available at art stores.
Hope that helps!
Enjoy watching your show cause I'm trying to that on my photos I wonder if you have done it before.
Thanks for tuning in. ArtResin works great over mounted photos as well! Have a look at our blog for an idea of what you can do:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-resin-a-large-photo?_pos=4&_sid=b54fd9e8b&_ss=r
Thank you for sharing
Love this !
Hi there.
My question is
Can I resin a poster board 23x28 cardboard.?
Do i need a custom cut panel?
Can you explain this beginning procedure to me?
My poster is no thicker than a piece of paper with plastic frame.
Have I already started off wrong?
This is my first time in years since I worked with resin (high school was my introduction to creating with resin)
Don't remember much of the process .
Now I am 71.
I am extremely excited to.learn again.
I paint with acrylic paint , but that has become extremely boring.
Thank you for your time and expertise.
Respectfully.
Patricia Welker
(Trish)
Okay if it solid and won’t flex, tape the back edges on the bottom to peel Off drips once it’s cured. Have it up on stands off the counter.
Or just have it on a shower curtain or shiny plastic. Have the poster board flat. Let it go over the edges and onto the plastic. Next morning cut the still soft resin with scissors. After a few days it will all the super hard. Slower cure for better long term clarity.
Thank you! Love your work by the way!!!
Hello! Im trying make a 3x4 feet painting with resin on top. May i know how fast it will dry or how fast should i need to spread the resin?
Would love to see more.
you can visit Greg's website: www.gregbenz.com/
@@Artresin TY
Can I ask do you ever use metal as a base rather than canvas. I am new to resin and trying to make a sea resin piece but I understand metal as a base is a better smoother finish. Any tips here if I use metal? Thanks
Yes metal is amazing with resin. If you look at metal under a microscope, it has ‘pores’. Artresin adheres well to metal. I had some photos printed on metal and resined them… amazing results especially if you have really high contrasts in your work and areas of white/lights that you can see through the resin. With the right type of metal you get amazing shimmering effects in the art. One ArtResin custom is selling prints of spectacular sunrises in the grand Grand Canyon, printed on metal and artresined… for like $10,000! Wood works great too that’s all I use for canvas. :)
Can you do a video on how to make a good drip tray for art work medium to large? I’m not happy with mine with foam board taped together. Not sturdy enough. I work on a round table that’s covered in drop cloth and plastic drop sheets.
learnt so much. thank you!
thanks for watching :)
Hi thanks for a gret demo! Would resin adhere to oil and wax paintings on board? Thanks Maria
Hi Maria!
Thanks so much for watching! Resin will adhere to dry oil paintings - the key is that the oil painting must be completely dry, which can (as you know) take months, and possibly years depending on how thick it is applied. Once dry, the resin will adhere.
Unfortunately, resin and wax, like encaustic or wax sealants, don't get along so I wouldn't use resin over top of these. It may adhere at first, but will delaminate, separate, or peel right off over time.
Hope that helps!
Thank you for this
thanks for watching :)
Doing my first resin pour on a 36x36 wood panel mixed media collage. Great tips learned - don't have a drill mixer to create that froth! I am amazed it came out clear. Will it work if I just mix by hand?
We never use a drill mixer in our ArtResin studio, we always mix by hand. You can enlist the help of another set of hands and mix in two smaller batches if that makes it easier! Just be sure that your mixture is thoroughly combined to avoid any curing problems.
Great video guys, how come you don't use respirators?
We are happy to tell you that ArtResin is non-toxic and does not produce fumes or VOCs. It has been evaluated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and has been designated non-toxic when used as directed and safe for home use in a well ventilated area! A respirator is not required when you are able to work in a well ventilated area.
Can you use a high heat hair dryer instead of a torch? Enjoy these how to vids, very informative.
We really prefer a torch, sometime a hair dryer can blow bits of dust into the resin which can be more harm than good.
Love the effect, would you recommend a spray gloss on large canvas?
Totally different look so up to you :)
I was just about to ask about sanding, but the video kept playing and answered my question. Lol Ty
Amazing
Can you do this over oils and how long to dry before you can do it
Thank you, looks great
What kind of Resin without smell?
ArtResin brand epoxy is being used. ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes or VOCs, so it is safe for home use in a well ventilated area. ArtResin has a light scent but it is not a heavy toxic chemical smell. Have a look at our blog that explains more about what you smell:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/44080897-whats-that-smell-explaining-epoxy-resin-odor?_pos=1&_sid=b70f13894&_ss=r
First I wouId like to congratulate you on this video. You have answered a lot of questions I had on the subject. But, unfortunately, I just don't have enough studio space to accommodate a resin pour. Do you suppose there is a professional printer, preferably in the Twin Cities area, that would provide that service?
Hmmm, not sure but a great place to look would be local Facebook resin groups or art groups! Good luck :)
Looks fantastic!. I have two questions: Does this method work over a photograph? What sort of timber panel is being used?
Yes it can certainly be used over photographs and birch wood is likely the most popular panel to use.
Well illustrated.What if one does not have the torch.is there an alternative?
We find the torch is the best tool for removing surface bubbles. If you do not have a torch, many artists use a heat gun instead. Here is a blog that explains more:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/why-use-a-torch-to-get-rid-of-bubbles-on-epoxy-resin?_pos=7&_sid=8781aee89&_ss=r
Beautiful
What kind of wood do you use for your wood panels?
Amazin work. So I was wondering if someone could help. Sometimes during my work, after I put the resin on my artwork I get some oily marks on top of it. Does this have to do with resin quality?
You may be describing "amine blush" which happens as a result of too much humidity or moisture in the environment. If you are in a high humidity environment, try running a dehumidifier to bring the humidity lower.
Can you resin textured art ( art completed with spackle or drywall compound)?
Hey there, is there anyway of removing the resin once it’s dried? Without damaging the painting
The only way to do it is to sand it off. You can start with using an electric sander if the resin is thick, then as you get closer to the artwork just sand by hand. You probably don't need to completely remove all of the resin you can just sand it down to remove the imperfections, then clean all the dust off and pour another coat.
Thanks for the video, I just tried a similar thing, with a smaller torch and for some reason the resin was immediately burning - any tips?
ArtResin won't ignite, but if you hold the torch in the same spot it will start to smoke and it can result in a scorched area. When using a torch you want to just kiss the surface of the poured resin with the flame, you will see the bubbles disappear. Keep the torch moving and try to avoid passing repeatedly over the same area.
Just wondering. The ratio is 1:1. I have gone through 3 half gallon sets and every time I get to the end the resin side has about 1/3 more than the hardener. Is it 1:1 by volume or weight? I have always measured with grams of weight on a scale for each part, always even parts. But I run out of hardener first every time.
The ratio is 1:1 by volume. While it is not the recommended measurement the ratio by weight would be 100:84 Resin to Hardener :) If you prefer weighing this should even you out.
can you tell us why you use epoxy resin vs varnish?
We sure can! www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/artresin-epoxy-resin-vs-varnish-whats-the-difference
Is it possible to do soft and oil pastel?
Would love to start resining my paintings instead of varnishing- can resin split / crack in shipping?
ArtResin has a very small amount of flexibility built into it so that it will not be brittle when applied over a stretched canvas. It is a good idea to protect your artwork when shipping, have a look at our blog that gives you some ideas how:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-pack-art-for-shipping?_pos=1&_sid=f9e818d54&_ss=r
Greg, that is an excellent video!!! Do you cover with something your work before applied and epoxy resin?
If you are pouring ArtResin over acrylic paint or oil paints, there is usually no need for a sealer--just ensure that the paint has had time to fully cure. If you are pouring ArtResin over alcohol ink on yupo paper for example, you should seal it with Kamar varnish to prevent the resin from re-activating the ink, and if you were pouring over watercolour paint on paper a sealer can help prevent the resin from absorbing into the paper and darkening it. Have a look at our blog on sealing to get a better understanding:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/should-i-seal-my-artwork-before-i-resin?_pos=3&_sid=81f291c23&_ss=r
You're using a propane torch to take the bubbles out .. Can you use a HEAT GUN instead or .. is that too much air pressure, etc ? Also - Is this epoxy self leveling ? As long as your piece is level ? Thanks .. I have never done this, but, am interested in it ..
You can use a heat gun, generally they do not give off too much air flow. We prefer to use a torch, you can pass the flame quickly to remove bubbles and it does not heat the resin up in that short time. Ensure your piece is flat and level and the ArtResin will self level to a thickness of about 1/8".
Looks great. have a question, i am based in India and cant buy the resin recommended,. tell me what should i look for in terms of specification or the resin, when trying to find local equivalents
Hi there, ArtResin is a two part epoxy resin. You can order through our website for international shipping worldwide! www.artresin.com
pls does this method work the same for using varnish
no varnish is much much thiner. paint varnish on or rub it on with acloth! Artresin is MUCH different! thick like glass when cured,
@@Artresin thank u for the feedback
Does anyone know if this resin is archival?
I’m considering varnishing some pieces this way but worried about longevity
Generally epoxy resin is not considered archival as all epoxy resins will show yellowing over time. There are effective UV stabilizers that are added to some epoxy resin to help prolong clarity and offer protection from UV damage, but eventually there will be degradation. An epoxy resin coating should be considered a permanent coating for your artwork so for best results keep your resined pieces protected from direct sunlight and high temperatures for best results.
Do we need to seal the big pictures? Becz normally in small pictures i do seal with hard plastic coating...pls help
Whether you seal your artwork or not really depends on what materials you are using. Typically acrylic paint or cured oil paints do not need to be sealed, but paper or porous surfaces would benefit from sealer. Have a look at our blog for more information:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/should-i-seal-my-artwork-before-i-resin?_pos=3&_sid=9441a0a25&_ss=r
Do you need to wear some PPE when you apply resine? Like a face respirator mask ?
Since ArtResin is such a pure formula and is non toxic and it does not produce fumes or VOCs, you do not need to wear a respirator when you are working with ArtResin. We do recommend working in an open well ventilated area rather than closing yourself off into a small confined closet :)
@@Artresin Good to know! Will try to use your product on my painting. Thank you!:)
Is the resin only used on acrylic paintings? I work in oil
Do you remove the tape before it dries or after?
Hi Julien - you remove the tape after the resin has cured dry to the touch, typically around the 16-18 hr mark. You don't want to leave it much longer than that because as the resin cures, it becomes hard and the tape can rip and become difficult to remove.
What was that photo printed on? And where can I print out a photo that big?
This is a painting, done on a birch wood panel, rather than a photo. There are large format printers who can print your large photos, check online for one close to you.
How long would it take for the resin to dry ? Or does it depend on the size of the piece
At room temperatures in the mid to high 70's, ArtResin will cure to the touch in about 24 hours and reach its full hardness after 72 hours.
can use the resin calculator for any resin products that have a 1:1 ratio?
Our calculator may give you a general idea, however was developed for use with ArtResin's viscosity and coverage.
When I used my resin for acrylic painting, all pieces didn't have a resin after dry. What can I do?
Sorry to hear that you had some issues with your resin curing properly. When resin doesn't cure, it's almost always due to an error with the resin & amounts used or the mixture was under mixed.
The good news is that you can fix this - first you need to scrape off any wet, liquid resin. If it's tacky, like the sticky side of tape, it's fine - but wet, runny areas of uncured resin need to be scraped off.
Next, mix up another batch of resin, carefully measured and mixed according to the manufacturer's directions. Then pour on top and allow to cure.
Hope that helps!
Is the canvas sitting directly on the plastic mixing containers, or is it on the wood/border part of the canvas? Thanks in advance!
It doesnt really matter but we typically set the cups inside the frame on the backside.
@@Artresin Thanks - maybe I'll give resin-ing canvas 1 last shot - I've tried reinforcing the back w/shims but the resin settles so that you can see the shape of the shims. Whenever I've done that, I've set the large canvas's frame on the top of risers.
Hi guys great video, how does your resin stand up to Amine Blush? I seem to have issues on and off with other (slightly) cheaper resins with blushing even when dried indoors in less humid spaces. I want to make a large purchase but just asking the question before hand...looking for reassurance really ha
Cheers
Hey! Generally amine blush is not a concern unless you are in a really humid environment. For best results we recommend working in and maintaining a humidity level of about 50%, but even up to 80% is usually ok. If you are concerned you can set up a dehumidifier in your workspace and check weather forecasts.
@@Artresin Perfect thanks for the response, really good to know that it can handle the higher humidity environments. Will definitely be making the purchase at the end of the month. Cheers guys. Do you offer any artist affilated programmes at all? Thanks again
commentHow can I fix a canvas that is showing diamond dust particles? It would seem the little glass pieces are too large and did not submerge well and are noticeable when viewed at certain angles.
You can just apply a second layer of resin to cover any particles that are sticking out of your surface. Some artists leave them protruding as they like the look of it.
Hi, thank you both for an excellent video and artwork! I’m a beginner at resin and I have a 2 questions…1) where do you get the wood board with the hooks & wire already attached? 2) do you add a backing paper/cloth etc behind the board? Thank you, new subbie here 🥰👍🏽
Hi there, most cradled wood panels do not come with the hanging wire attached. You can purchase separate hanging kits or install your own preferred hardware yourself. We typically do not add any backing but that is entirely up to you!!
@@Artresin Thanks so much for your response 😊
Greg, what kind of paints do you use to make these crackle effects?
you can also reach out to Greg on his website: www.gregbenz.com/
could we apply this resin on an oil painting on canvas?
Yes! ArtResin works over oil painting. For best results be sure that the oil paint has fully cured prior to applying ArtResin.
Can we use a heat gun instead of the torch?
Hey there - this is a great question. We almost always recommend a torch rather than a heat gun, especially for large pieces. The heat torch zaps bubbles really quickly and efficiently from the surface of the resin, which means you can cover a large area in a very short amount of time, and the resin doesn't get over heated. The heat gun is not as efficient so you need to work the resin longer to pop bubbles - this means the resin can overheat (which promotes yellowing) and it's hard to cover a very large area efficiently. On a large piece, the resin may start curing before you cover the whole piece and treating it with a heat gun may cause surface imperfections.
A heat gun also blows hot air so it can push your resin around and introduce dust and other contaminants into your wet resin.
Having said all that - if you're working with silicone molds or alcohol ink, a heat gun is the way to go: a flame torch can damage silicone and alcohol ink is flammable, so you wouldn't want to introduce a flame anywhere near it.
Heat guns are also great for fluid art when you want air to push the resin around to create cells, blend colours etc.
Long answer to a short question - hope it helps!
@Artresin thank you for your time. Also, do you recommend a second layer for the cripple finish (this is on canvas) or leave it as is.
@@lexhimself876 Happy to help! A second layer is totally optional. You might want to apply a second layer if there is something that needs to be fixed on the first layer (make sure you sand down the cured layer first to create some tooth for the fresh resin to grab onto), or you might need to cover areas of high relief, or you might just enjoy the look of a thicker coat.
One thing to keep in mind with canvas is that epoxy resin is very heavy - so it could cause the canvas to sag so that the resin pools in the middle and is bare on the edges. One way around this is to 1) wedge cardboard cut to size in the back to help provide stability or 2) you can apply a thin coat of resin with a foam brush first to the back (and front if you want) to help firm it up before applying the main coat. You might want to consider wood panels for use with resin - they're sturdy and strong and can bear the weight of the resin.
Here's a blog I wrote with more info, go down to point 4: Pouring Onto A Stretched Canvas.
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/bare-spots
Hope that helps! :)
@Artresin ok great. The canvas im working with is a 48x48inch, and i already pour my first coat. However, i have a few spot, would u recommend me just going over the spot, or do i have to pour all over. thanks for your help
@@lexhimself876 Gotcha. Ok, if you're fixing some spots, this probably isn't the answer you want to hear :) BUT it really is best to pour a fresh coat over the entire surface.
The reason is that it's really difficult to spot fix - the resin will self level, but you will still see the ridge around the little fresh resin spots you poured. But it all depends on your artwork - if you have a really busy piece with lots going on, it might just blend in. However, if you're standing off to the side and you see the reflection of the resin, you're going to notice them.
Best practice is to sand the whole thing down with 80 grit sandpaper - make sure you remove whatever the imperfection is (if it's a bubble or dimple, or hair) and then just rough up the rest of the resin to create that tooth. Wipe all the sanding dust away (make sure you wear a mask while you do this so you don't breathe in the resin dust) and then pour your fresh coat.
If you want, try spot fixing first and see what the results are like - if it looks good to you, then you're good! If not, then you can move on to Plan B and recoat the whole thing.
okay I was way too timid with the torch. I was worried I was going to like burn the resin so I didn't do it for very long and ended up with bubbles and stuff but apparently I can just blast that shit for like 15 minutes
Love the resin but just a heads up the online calculator is pretty far off. I had a 24x30 to coat and the calculator gave me 25oz, I mixed 34oz and barely had enough for the top, there wasn’t enough for the edges even with the 9 extra oz. Please make the calculator accurate to the sizes
I'm so sorry to hear that - but I'm so glad you mixed enough for your piece! Thanks for sharing - I will share your comment with your team now.
Since you're adding heat to the resin to get rid of bubbles, shouldn't you be wearing a respirator?
You do not need to wear a respirator when using ArtResin as long as you are working in a well ventilated area. ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes, applying the heat from the torch is safe as long as you are not burning your resin.
So check tape at 24 hours but leave no longer that 48 hours ? Wonderful work and Inspiring .
We recommend removing the tape when you can safely handle your piece without causing damage. The longer the tape remains on, the harder the resin drops will cure and it will be tougher to remove.
Does the resin make bad smell when curing?
ArtResin has a very low and mild odor. We are happy to tell you that ArtResin does not produce fumes or VOCs so it is a safer choice for home use.
@@Artresin Thats good to hear. Do you ship to Norway?
@@SindreKuljo Yes! You can order through www.ArtResin.com for international shipping.
Such a beautiful piece of art!
Can I pour ArtResin on top of cured Epoxy Resin?
You definitely can, you will want to be sure you have sanded your cured coat so that the new coat has some tooth to attach to :)
@@Artresin Thank you! 😀
Is it ok to use resin on smaller stretched canvas?
Yes, you can use ArtResin over stretched canvas. The small ones work really well, when you use the larger ones we recommend supporting the canvas from behind using cardboard so that it doesn't sag under the weight of the resin.
Can you successfully use a heat gun rather then a torch?
Wondering why you weren’t wearing any protection? Respirator for you and her in the very least? Ventilation? Surprised those important factors were not mentioned.
ArtResin conforms to ASTM D4236, meaning it is certified as safe for home use and non-toxic when used as directed, however there are some safety precautions that every user should follow:
Wear gloves. ArtResin is very sticky in its liquid form, so gloves will protect the user from a mess, as well as skin irritation. Clean skin promptly with soap and water if it does come in contact with ArtResin.
If ArtResin somehow comes in contact with your eyes, flush with water repeatedly and do not rub. Promptly seek medical attention.
Work in a well ventilated area. Wear a respirator if ventilation is poor.
See our blog for further information: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-safety-precautions-should-i-take-when-using-artresin
How to prevent resin yellowing ? I think 1 year and go to yellow
Sorry to hear that! Once the resin yellows, not much can be done to reverse it. The only option is to sand it down (being careful not to damage your artwork) and repour.
Several things can affect how quickly yellowing occurs in epoxy resin, but UV light exposure is the biggest issue. ArtResin contains UV light stabilizers to delay yellowing, but the sun is powerful. If your piece is exposed to direct light in a window or on a sunny wall, yellowing will happen sooner. And if your piece has a white background, it will be even more noticeable.
Heat is another factor that can accelerate yellowing. This can be caused by over-torching, pouring thick layers, or exposing cured resin to high temperatures. Additionally, using acrylic paint that hasn't fully dried and titanium dioxide in titanium white paint can also cause premature yellowing.
You don’t have to clean the surface or anything?
Hi Carla, your surface should be free from dirt, dust and oil and it is important that your paint layer is completely dry before you apply ArtResin.
@@Artresin….I think it’s important to give a step by step of your product, I had some issues with that! Also you don’t specify how to clean the surface if it’s oil or acrylic! I used mostly oil, but I also use copper and silver leaf which can leave a glue residue. What’s a good way to clean that! A step by step would help a lot! Thank you so much!
@@carlapayan-flores8613 Greg and Joanne go through most of the steps on how to prep your piece, how to measure, mix and apply ArtResin, for a more detailed step by step here is a link to our "ArtResin 101" video: ua-cam.com/video/Q8r9Fy5HzYQ/v-deo.html . If your paint is acrylic like Gregs painting in this video, you can pour ArtResin over your painting once the paint has thoroughly dried. If you are using oil paints you must wait for the oil paint to fully cure--this can sometimes take 6 months to a year! ArtResin works great over metal leaf, again just be sure the glue used dries clear and is fully dry prior to pouring your ArtResin overtop. Please reach out to us at support@artresin.com if you have any specific questions :)
First you have to know, and that shows that those who are speaking know very little about the resin, that it affects health and very strongly. Working with resin requires working with a respirator and an air filter. Second, the resin interacts with acrylic and oil colors.
We are happy to share that unlike many other epoxy resins, ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes and VOCs. Further, ArtResin has been evaluated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and has been designated non-toxic when used as directed and safe for home use in a well ventilated area. Have a look at our blog for more information: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/41788993-artresin-is-safe-for-home-use?_pos=2&_sid=906523318&_ss=r
ArtResin works beautifully over acrylic paints and oil paints, we always recommend ensuring your paint is allowed to fully cure prior to applying ArtResin. When applied, ArtResin makes colours POP and become more vibrant bringing your artwork to life!
I was going to comment… there are many different types of resin. I find most art branded resins are designed for the mainstream consumer, and therefore safe. #duh
❤️🥰💕
Am wondering about wearing mask?? Is this resin safe to use without mask or whats going on???
ArtResin is safe for home use and when used in a well ventilated area a respirator is not required. ArtResin does not produce fumes or VOCs and it is a pure formula, meaning everything in its formula reacts.
Is there a resin which doesn't require masks? I'm wondering why they don't have any. But beautiful work.
Artresin has no solvents. No fumes. I safely never wear a mask! The reason u don’t see no mask resin much is because it is much more expensive to manufacture safe resin. Artresin is safe. Made in USA. Factory in texas doesn’t need employees to wear masks. This is all certified, documented and tested 👍❤️
Eeeeeeek . . . No eye protection!
…why would you need that for this?
You do not want ArtResin to come into contact with your eyes. We typically do not find it to be a hazard in our standard pouring process, however if you find that you require protection for your eyes you should wear goggles while pouring.
any toxic fumes from resin? I see you don't wear masks and your inside
ArtResin is non toxic and does not produce fumes or VOCs. ArtResin has been evaluated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and has been designated non-toxic when used as directed and safe for home use in a well ventilated area! Check out our blog for more information on what safety precautions to take with ArtResin:
www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/what-safety-precautions-should-i-take-when-using-artresin?_pos=4&_sid=68840a34b&_ss=r
I know you mentioned that these are wood panels and that makes it easier for leveling purposes but, I have a lot of large pieces on canvas that I would like to resin…any tips to avoid sagging and pooling?
Thanks in advance 😊
Beautiful