This was a very good educational video. I found it very easy to follow the steps and feel comfortable and confident, that when I try it now I should be in good shape hopefully.
Wow! What an excellent video. I have watched several videos from other channels, but they come up short, skipping steps or glossing over details. You provide concise explanations, but with much needed detail on both the procedure and the products used. This will have immediate impact and take my epoxy pours to the next level. Thank you. I'm heading out to your website to look at the products now.
Thanks for the feedback, we try and cover every process in detail and not miss anything out. We think it's important to show not just the result, but how to get there and the work involved.
Thank you, your step by step instructions were fabulous and very understanding. I've built a set of cornhole boards, and a friend poured the resin for me. I would appreciate it if I could se d a pic after I have co pleated the project.
I’m new to this resin thing but after making a bottle top table for my bar I’m keen to move onto bigger and better. The polishing video will help me as I move ahead, thanks.👍
your videos very detailed..thank you for sharing this video sir i learn a lot with this...🎉🎉🎉🎉 please make more tutorial video like this. God bless you always❤
Thank you wish to start making knife scales using wood and epoxy this tutorial has taught me so much and saved me money as in sanding discs i now know the correct ones to purchase thanks again
Hi from New Zealand, thank you for this great tutorial. I get excited when I want to learn new projects, but then I get anxiety. But I try & push myself & after watching this video...well I'm goanna give it ago. I'm happy to to start a new project & I'm happy to be a new subscriber, thanx loads looking forward to watching more from you 🥰
Great video! Sets the standard for this topic. Only 1 question. What kind of marker pen are you using: permanent, non-permanent, sharpie, or something else?
Thanks for your comment, any kind of marker is fine. It's just to indicate where you've sanded and areas that you haven't, I think we used a sharpie as that was what we had to hand.
Good video on polishing epoxy, however the danish oil finish doesn't protect the wood from getting stained/stripped off by the polishing compound as you can easily see at 10:50, and from my experience as a woodworker who works with epoxy every day this is something I still struggle with to find a solution, would be nice if there was actually a good method in polishing the epoxy without messing up the wooden sides other than just epoxying the entire wooden surface just to be able to evenly sand/polish the river
THANK YOU...THIS IS THE $64,000 QUESTION! To complicate it even further, I don't like wood to have the unnatural glassy look of epoxy. I would much rather have a satin look on the wood. (BTW, I asked almost the same Q here 11:49 before I saw yours. I notice he answered all the questions except yours. I.have not seen ANYONE address this critical issue. I do hope he answers.
This answers my question, thank you! Incase anyone else is struggling with this same problem. I'll explain my situation... I make Chess boards. Half the squares wood, the other half epoxy. Obviously I can't sand just the epoxy squares without getting the wood. I was wondering what the point of finishing was if the buffer was going to remove material. Now I understand. I guess the only way to seal the wood properly would be to cover it in something that has the same strength at the epoxy and that brings us back to finishing the entire thing with epoxy so it can all be polished to the same level. Thanks again guys. Looks like I have a choice between leaving the wood exposed or coating it in epoxy.
Great video, very well executed! One thing I didn't see addressed - should this be done on both sides of the piece? I imagine yes as if the bottom is not as clear as the top you'll see that as you look through it. I've made several river tables, though all with a dark epoxy - not see through, so I sand the bottom up to 180, while the top is sanded to 800 (on the epoxy part).
Thanks for the feedback. Correct If you wanted to be able to see through the entire piece with clarity then you would also need to polish up the underside of the 'river'. If, as in your case the bottom side is hidden then you can do as much or as little finishing as you please.
Gonna be rewatching this because seeing multiple passes is new to me! Can this be applied to a resin table top that has a few flowers sticking out so it can be a flat shiny surface?
The flowers should really be fully encapsulated in the resin which will prevent them from absorbing moisture and decaying any further. If they are protruding from the surface then you should cut the flowers back flush and sand out a small amount of resin around the flowers, you can fill with a small quantity of resin to seal them in place. This can then be sanded flat and polished as demonstrated in the video. Alternatively you could cut the flowers back to the surface and apply a 2mm coating of GlassCast 3. GlassCast 3 cures with a flat glossy finish so you shouldn't then need to do any more finishing work.
hi, thanks so much for the video - so detailed and helpful! however, no matter what i do, i am getting the swirly pigtail marks from the sander. i am trying to follow the instructions in this video exactly, and the sanding pads do not look clogged, but i cannot get rid of them. any advice is appreciated!!!
Make extra sure both the surface and the pad are clean. If you pick up even the smallest bit of coarser grit or debris, it will scratch the surface leaving those pigtail marks.
Enjoyed your tutorial. Just starting to use clear resin. Up to this point my work has all been done with table top multicolor epoxy inlays. I didn't do any wet sanding or polishing, even though I have been informed it would step up my game. I am now trying to move in that direction. So a couple questions: Seems like a basic question but need to validate I have a Festool 150" ROS. Will the mirka sandpaper and wet sanding discs work with that sander? I am pretty sure the answer is yes but wanted to validate. Second question - looks like once you go to wet sanding you remove the dust collector connection so you don't suck water into the DC - is that correct? Thank you again for the tutorial - very helpful.
Thank you so much for your nice video, I have a question please help me how can I use epoxy resin on basin and old basin and how to make perfect and glass glossy smooth finishing
Thank you for a great tutorial. Can you recommend a tool for smaller pieces of resin? I’m working on coasters, so an orbital sander feels excessive for the size. I use GlassCast resin and it is brilliant, never had any issues with it unlike others that I’ve tried.
The good thing about a random orbital sander like this is that it has a random path, it's not just rotational which means you get a really nice finish with minimal sanding marks. For small pieces you might find a detail sander more appropriate.
If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.
A product such as that wouldn't improve the finish on the epoxy in any way. As an oil based product it would simply sit on the surface of the epoxy so can be wiped away once applied to the wood. If you are using a one with a stain to alter the appearance of the wood it would be a good idea to so this relatively quickly rather than letting it sit on the epoxy, especially with light coloured or clear resin.
Hi Robert, the only difference if you were doing a darker colour is that you may wish to use the NW1 and TopFinish black rather than the white. Everything else would be exactly the same.
That was an awesome video. Do you typically add a finish to the entire piece after finishing or leave the glass-like epoxy untreated, and just finish the wood? If adding a finish to both wood and epoxy what do you use?
Hi David. Once polished, the resin already has its finish so there's no need to treat with any further product. Also any waxes or oils will simply sit on the surface and wipe off rather than being absorbed into the surface. The wood on the other hand can be treated and finished as per personal preference.
Hi there! Your video was substantially more informative than at least 100 others I have seen on UA-cam. I would like to ask, however, the f the polishing should be done both before AND after the seal coat and flood coats. I have yet to find my answer on any video with the hashtag ,"instruction; how to build river epoxy table from start to finish"
I was so worried how i will be able to polish epoxy when its mixed with wood. Thank you for disclosing that! Do you think its a good idea to oil and also polish the wood?
Hi, it entirely depends on your personal preference when it comes to finishing. I would recommend some kind of treatment prior to polishing the resin as it will protect the wood from potential staining from the polish used on the resin.
Super nice video! I have a artwork that I would like to polish but the resin layer is only 2mm thick. How much material is removed during this process? Thank you very much!
In reality, very little - fractions of a millimetre as you're only working down through the deepest scratches. As you progress to the next, finer level of abrasive papers, the only material you're removing is between the scratches, you're not going deeper; the idea being that your smoothing out the surface prior to polishing.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video, and really nice work! The tabletop I'm working on doesn't have a 'river' of resin, instead it's scattered across the surface of the wood to fill holes, indentations, etc. What would you recommend I do when it comes to the sealing of wood and polishing of resin stage?
You could do the process in a very similar way. Applying the oil coat before you polish the resin surface will reduce the chances of the compound absorbing into the grain. For small areas you may wish to polish by hand which might reduce the spread of the compound over the wood areas.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a question regarding the speed setting of my orbital sander (from 1 to 5) for each grid and polish stage. What’s your recommendation? Thanks a lot.
Hi Eduardo, we recommend a high speed but low pressure. You need to keep checking the surface of the item to make sure that it doesn't get warm, if it does move onto another part of the item.
Great video and very helpful. You used Danish oil to seal the wood before polishing with the compound. How long after sealing do you have to wait to polish. Is it possible to use like an Odies oil to seal before polishing as well?
It is not a product we have tested. However it looks to be made of oils and waxes so is likely to offer similar levels of protection. However test on a small area first to be safe.
We'd always recommend sending a piece through a planer thicknesser or setting up a router sled (as in our river table tutorial) to achieve a flat top surface before sanding and polishing. Although in theory you could sand it flat a) it would take a huge amount of time and b) the chance of ending up with a perfectly consistent flat top would be incredibly low.
@@glasscastresin right but I’m talking single dimensional, horizontal objects with no curves. Flat items require much less nuance. If you have a DA and ROS, you just move up grit. But applying epoxy and sanding down surfaces on a dynamic object is usually what people struggle with. Mastering a flat surface does not make one a master of non flat surfaces
If you use Glasscast50 and then put a layer of Glasscast3 on top, do you still need to polish the 50 in order to make the whole thing clear all the way through?
Hi Oliver, You would apply the GlassCast 3 at the 'B' stage or key up the surface of the 50. Either way, you don't need to polish the surface first and any scratches from the keying process will be filled with new layer of resin.
Hi, thank you for this great tutorial 👍 I will do same steps but ı have question mark. You apply that polish also to wood. Are those polish can apply also for woods? Should ı apply only resin part or both of them? I wish that; ı explained my self clear 😊
Its only really for polishing the resin itself and would be best to avoid getting it onto the wood as if it gets into the grain, it might alter the appearance of the wood itself.
You still sand it the same way, just take extra care to keep an even pressure so you sand evenly. On edges its easy to end up putting too much pressure on the corner if you are not careful.
This was exactly my question. Can you do a video on doing the edges? What is considered a single pass on the edge? Obviously you can't go up and down, do you go around it a 2nd time? how do you go about an edge with a round over or a more complicated router bit? How do you handle that?@@glasscastresin
@@sarahweerheim6123 For complicated or undulating surfaces you may find that sanding by hand is better. It may take more time than with a sander, but you'll have more control and a better feel for the contours in the edge.
Thank you. Quick question. I know in the video you had finished the wood. And then you continue to polish the epoxy. However, in the end it look like you took off some finish of the wood. So did you go back and finish the wood again?
It's inevitable that in polishing the resin the pad will cross over onto the wood and take off some of the coating. It's perfectly fine to go back and top this coating up once polishing is finished. It's recommended to give the wood a good clean first to remove any polishing compound which may have transferred onto the surface so as not to trap it under another layer of wood finish.
Thanks Richard, it put us a bit of time to put this one together - not the actual filming/editing but the planning because we know its one area which causes a lot of headaches, especially if someone hasn't done a lot of sanding and polishing before and we wanted to make sure we covered everything including useful tips we've picked up through the years. Sanding and polishing can be really quite satisfying when you get the hang of it 🙂
Hey man, love the video. Used your technique and it worked great. I'm a professional artist. I work with multi-medium art. I'm reaching out because I'm stumped. I'm working on an epoxy table. It's 2 3/4" deep, with land, beaches, whales, boats, waves crashing against the shore... I'm 13 layers into it, nearly finished, and I noticed a line. It's about 2 layers below. I've been working on this for over a year, so you can imagine me screaming. All I can think of is to cut into the piece around the area, clean it up, and refill it with epoxy. I'm hoping someone else out there has a better solution. Any ideas, suggestions, or whatever??? Any help will be appreciated greatly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@glasscastresin thanks for the response. I'm going to remove the layers with a router and sand it back to a glass finish. I guess one doesn't become a master of his craft without suffering the errors that teach us. ;-)
Hi there very useful video! I personally make art clocks using acrylic paint and to finish them off i put resin top coat over it (possibly 2 thin layers) would this process work for me? Thanks in advance
Yes you can. It can be useful if there is a lot of material to remove or a warp you are trying to sand out. A drum sander can also be used to do the same thing.
I have a few questions about the NW1 and Topfinish 2 polishing compounds. 1) Are they sold anywhere under a smaller quantity? I don't have many resin things to use it on. 2) Can I use it with a dremel tool on small resin projects? 3) If it *can* be used with a dremel tool, what would be the recommended buffing bit?
I can answer you, or i can try at least. So, yes, you can use your dremmel toold with this paste. You can find some other polishing paste from different suplier that does the job and in small quantities ( Meguiars). And you can buff it with the wool disk.
@@glasscastresin thanks. What would you recommend for spot sanding and polishing? I did a small 17 by 17 project that came out pretty good but dripped off the edges. After it hardens I tried doing an additional epoxy repair by tripping epoxy on the places that it didn't cover. Unfortunately I ended up making it lumpy around the edges. Is it possible to sand and polish some areas but not mess with the good areas? Hope that makes some kind of sense?
@@greglegakis4177 Small areas can be polished by hand or a more precision rotary tool. Masking off the good areas will mean that they don't become scratched or scuffed by any oversanding.
Hi Derek, we can ship worldwide. When shipping to Canada we can ship any non dangerous goods no problem to all addresses, although dangerous goods including the GlassCast range can only be shipped to certain postcodes. If you'd like to email help@glasscastresin.com with any enquiries you have we'd be happy to assist.
Ive always learned from epoxy video’s that you need to sand you wood till 400 grit and not higher. Because then the wood will not absorb the wood oil. Why did you also sand the wood till 800 grit ? And not only the epoxy part ?
Hi Tim, in our experience there is no problem with oils and waxes adhering up to 800 grit on the wood. Secondly, if you did not sand the wood at the 800 grit stage, you may notice a dip in the resin.
This is the first video I’ve come across that has helped me clearly understand how to sand and polish resin. Thank you 🙏🏻
Glad you found it helpful!
Was that a message disc
@@randyhakes9050huh?
Me too 👍
Ditto
After staring at my first dull Resin effort and wondering why I couldn't get it to look clear, hey presto 1 video later and I can smile again, thanks.
Finally i understand how to sand and polish my resin and can finally complete the 2 side tables i have created. Thankyou
Best of luck finishing your tables.
This is the best video about sanding I've ever see
Thanks - glad you found it useful 🙂
This was a very good educational video. I found it very easy to follow the steps and feel comfortable and confident, that when I try it now I should be in good shape hopefully.
Great to hear, glad you found the video useful.
Wow! What an excellent video. I have watched several videos from other channels, but they come up short, skipping steps or glossing over details. You provide concise explanations, but with much needed detail on both the procedure and the products used. This will have immediate impact and take my epoxy pours to the next level. Thank you. I'm heading out to your website to look at the products now.
Thanks for the feedback, we try and cover every process in detail and not miss anything out. We think it's important to show not just the result, but how to get there and the work involved.
Thank you I’ve been using resin for a while and couldn’t figure out how to get it polished right. This really helped a lot. Thank you.
Glad you found the video useful, thanks for watching.
Outstanding video, very clear and included a lot of PRO tips! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Atleast i find the perfect video for the perfect way to polishing thanks
Thank you for the advice on sealing the wood first. I hadn’t seen that before and my project turned out perfect
Great news, glad to hear it.
Thank you very much for this video. Superbly explained! And many thanks for the helpful information about processing time and material.
Best tutorial on polishing resin I’ve ever seen. Good work guys 👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you, your step by step instructions were fabulous and very understanding. I've built a set of cornhole boards, and a friend poured the resin for me. I would appreciate it if I could se d a pic after I have co pleated the project.
Hi Donald,
Sounds like a great project, sure if you want to send some photos through to help@glasscastresin.com we'd be delighted to take a look.
I feel like a took a really great course today! I’m ready to finish up this counter top I started 4 years ago!! Thank you!👊🏼🙌🏼🙏🏼
Best of luck finishing it off
Thanks for the tutorial amazing results!
and dont forget..if you polish a table its still a table!
Thanks for watching.
Thankyou this was. really very clear and helpful tutorial. Want to buy some materials.
I’m new to this resin thing but after making a bottle top table for my bar I’m keen to move onto bigger and better. The polishing video will help me as I move ahead, thanks.👍
It is our please Anthony, glad to hear it has been useful :)
Just huge thank you from USA!!!
You're very welcome, hope the tutorial helps.
I agree. Having the right materials DOES make a world of difference!!
your videos very detailed..thank you for sharing this video sir i learn a lot with this...🎉🎉🎉🎉 please make more tutorial video like this. God bless you always❤
Thanks for the feedback, keep an eye out for our next tutorial project.
Love this video. Explained step by step
Thank you wish to start making knife scales using wood and epoxy this tutorial has taught me so much and saved me money as in sanding discs i now know the correct ones to purchase thanks again
Hi from New Zealand, thank you for this great tutorial. I get excited when I want to learn new projects, but then I get anxiety. But I try & push myself & after watching this video...well I'm goanna give it ago. I'm happy to to start a new project & I'm happy to be a new subscriber, thanx loads looking forward to watching more from you 🥰
That answered so many questions i've had
Excellent demo on the product, will be trying this process out on some knives for my channel. Thanks again!
Thanks Sweetknives :)
Thanks for this tutorial. You sounded very professional. I can't wait to try.
Thank you for commenting, glad you enjoyed the video!
now i know what the diff between rotary and dual action. how and when to use it. thank u.
Glad we could help.
What a very informative video , found it very useful , and very easy on the eye so it was easy to watch
Thanks Terry, glad you found it useful :)
Finally an alternative to extremely expensive 3M products! *Thanks*
Finally, a decent instructional video. Thank you
We really appreciate the kind comment, glad you enjoyed!
Absolutely great video, thank you.
This tutorial is well overdue. I was asking about this from you 3-4 years ago but thankfully UA-cam saved the day back then
Mmm, sorry we didn’t have this video when you needed it but glad you found what you were looking for. I hope the project worked out well 👍.
Geez, sorry he didn't work around your schedule. 😂
Thanks. This was clear and very thorough. Just what I needed. 👍😁
Perfect. Thank you for being so detailed.
Thanks Jerry, glad you enjoyed the video!
very helpful video
love u & ❤❤I like this job very much, I will start very soon InshAllah
Thanks so much for this tutorial, it worked wonders 🎉
Great video! Sets the standard for this topic. Only 1 question. What kind of marker pen are you using: permanent, non-permanent, sharpie, or something else?
Thanks for your comment, any kind of marker is fine. It's just to indicate where you've sanded and areas that you haven't, I think we used a sharpie as that was what we had to hand.
Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
WOW! Very nice. Nice presentation. I'll be using these tips in my current project. Thanks
Thank Roy, I'm glad it has proved useful to you - let us know how you get on with your project! :)
Good video on polishing epoxy, however the danish oil finish doesn't protect the wood from getting stained/stripped off by the polishing compound as you can easily see at 10:50, and from my experience as a woodworker who works with epoxy every day this is something I still struggle with to find a solution, would be nice if there was actually a good method in polishing the epoxy without messing up the wooden sides other than just epoxying the entire wooden surface just to be able to evenly sand/polish the river
THANK YOU...THIS IS THE $64,000 QUESTION! To complicate it even further, I don't like wood to have the unnatural glassy look of epoxy. I would much rather have a satin look on the wood.
(BTW, I asked almost the same Q here 11:49 before I saw yours. I notice he answered all the questions except yours. I.have not seen ANYONE address this critical issue. I do hope he answers.
This answers my question, thank you!
Incase anyone else is struggling with this same problem. I'll explain my situation...
I make Chess boards. Half the squares wood, the other half epoxy. Obviously I can't sand just the epoxy squares without getting the wood. I was wondering what the point of finishing was if the buffer was going to remove material. Now I understand. I guess the only way to seal the wood properly would be to cover it in something that has the same strength at the epoxy and that brings us back to finishing the entire thing with epoxy so it can all be polished to the same level. Thanks again guys. Looks like I have a choice between leaving the wood exposed or coating it in epoxy.
Could the wood be taped to protect it from the polish, or no?
Ahora si entendí cómo lijar y pulir el epoxy. Gracias..!
Great video, very well executed! One thing I didn't see addressed - should this be done on both sides of the piece? I imagine yes as if the bottom is not as clear as the top you'll see that as you look through it.
I've made several river tables, though all with a dark epoxy - not see through, so I sand the bottom up to 180, while the top is sanded to 800 (on the epoxy part).
Thanks for the feedback. Correct If you wanted to be able to see through the entire piece with clarity then you would also need to polish up the underside of the 'river'. If, as in your case the bottom side is hidden then you can do as much or as little finishing as you please.
When staining wood, I guess you wouldn’t want to sand up to 1200? Maybe stop on the wood around 320 and keep sanding the epoxy?
Fabulous video I will be adding those to my list for sure
Thanks Tracey :)
Thank you for this very informative video!!! Well done and very descriptive, covering all the bases 👍
Gonna be rewatching this because seeing multiple passes is new to me! Can this be applied to a resin table top that has a few flowers sticking out so it can be a flat shiny surface?
The flowers should really be fully encapsulated in the resin which will prevent them from absorbing moisture and decaying any further. If they are protruding from the surface then
you should cut the flowers back flush and sand out a small amount of resin around the flowers, you can fill with a small quantity of resin to seal them in place. This can then be sanded flat and polished as demonstrated in the video. Alternatively you could cut the flowers back to the surface and apply a 2mm coating of GlassCast 3. GlassCast 3 cures with a flat glossy finish so you shouldn't then need to do any more finishing work.
Very well explained! Thank You a lot!
Awesome video, thanks so much! I am exploring setting in stones with my epoxy, any suggestions on sanding process for this?
If the stones are covered completely then the process is the same. If trying to sand around stones sticking out, that would be much more fiddly.
hi, thanks so much for the video - so detailed and helpful! however, no matter what i do, i am getting the swirly pigtail marks from the sander. i am trying to follow the instructions in this video exactly, and the sanding pads do not look clogged, but i cannot get rid of them. any advice is appreciated!!!
Make extra sure both the surface and the pad are clean. If you pick up even the smallest bit of coarser grit or debris, it will scratch the surface leaving those pigtail marks.
Enjoyed your tutorial. Just starting to use clear resin. Up to this point my work has all been done with table top multicolor epoxy inlays. I didn't do any wet sanding or polishing, even though I have been informed it would step up my game. I am now trying to move in that direction. So a couple questions: Seems like a basic question but need to validate I have a Festool 150" ROS. Will the mirka sandpaper and wet sanding discs work with that sander? I am pretty sure the answer is yes but wanted to validate. Second question - looks like once you go to wet sanding you remove the dust collector connection so you don't suck water into the DC - is that correct? Thank you again for the tutorial - very helpful.
For an 150mm disc they should fit no problem. Yes you don't want water in the vacuum cleaner/extraction system.
Thank you so much for your nice video, I have a question please help me how can I use epoxy resin on basin and old basin and how to make perfect and glass glossy smooth finishing
Thanks for a great video, and a Nice website.
Thanks for watching.
Great video! Super helpful
Thanks for the step by step video. I’m wondering if you wore a specific mask during sanding?
A good quality P2 or better quality mask is recommended for epoxy sanding dust.
What an awesome video thanks
This video is very helpful for me
Glad it could be of use :)
Thank you for making this video!
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
Awesome! How to protect it from scratches now going forward?
The epoxy resin is generally a hard wearing surface once fully cured. Occasional light polishing will remove any build up of scratches during use.
Amazing video
Fantastic video. So useful. Thank you! Instantly subscribed and bought several products from your site!
Glad you found the video useful!
Thank you for a great tutorial. Can you recommend a tool for smaller pieces of resin? I’m working on coasters, so an orbital sander feels excessive for the size.
I use GlassCast resin and it is brilliant, never had any issues with it unlike others that I’ve tried.
The good thing about a random orbital sander like this is that it has a random path, it's not just rotational which means you get a really nice finish with minimal sanding marks. For small pieces you might find a detail sander more appropriate.
Fantastic tutorial 👍🏻
Brilliant. Can you use the sander instead of the polisher?
If you have an appropriate polishing head for your sander then absolutely.
Do you have to polish both sides of the project? Great tutorial 😁
If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.
Thank u for this very informative video...can u help me where to get the different grit papers n the polishing compound
Glad you found it useful. You can find the abrasive papers and the polish from our website. www.glasscastresin.com/
Great and simple lesson 😉
Excellent video cheers
Can you add a finish like Osmos to both the wood and the epoxy? Great video thanks.....
A product such as that wouldn't improve the finish on the epoxy in any way. As an oil based product it would simply sit on the surface of the epoxy so can be wiped away once applied to the wood. If you are using a one with a stain to alter the appearance of the wood it would be a good idea to so this relatively quickly rather than letting it sit on the epoxy, especially with light coloured or clear resin.
Great video any suggestions for a mixed epoxy countertop tops?
Hi Robert, the only difference if you were doing a darker colour is that you may wish to use the NW1 and TopFinish black rather than the white.
Everything else would be exactly the same.
That was an awesome video. Do you typically add a finish to the entire piece after finishing or leave the glass-like epoxy untreated, and just finish the wood? If adding a finish to both wood and epoxy what do you use?
Hi David. Once polished, the resin already has its finish so there's no need to treat with any further product. Also any waxes or oils will simply sit on the surface and wipe off rather than being absorbed into the surface. The wood on the other hand can be treated and finished as per personal preference.
@@glasscastresin ah finally I understand
Hi there! Your video was substantially more informative than at least 100 others I have seen on UA-cam. I would like to ask, however, the f the polishing should be done both before AND after the seal coat and flood coats. I have yet to find my answer on any video with the hashtag ,"instruction; how to build river epoxy table from start to finish"
You only generally polish as a final stage to finish off the project.
I was so worried how i will be able to polish epoxy when its mixed with wood. Thank you for disclosing that! Do you think its a good idea to oil and also polish the wood?
Hi, it entirely depends on your personal preference when it comes to finishing. I would recommend some kind of treatment prior to polishing the resin as it will protect the wood from potential staining from the polish used on the resin.
Super nice video!
I have a artwork that I would like to polish but the resin layer is only 2mm thick.
How much material is removed during this process?
Thank you very much!
In reality, very little - fractions of a millimetre as you're only working down through the deepest scratches. As you progress to the next, finer level of abrasive papers, the only material you're removing is between the scratches, you're not going deeper; the idea being that your smoothing out the surface prior to polishing.
Nicely done!
Abone oldum bildirimleri açtım ve ürünleri satın alacam gerçekten eğitici be çok bilgilendirici bir video içerik olmuş teşekkür ederim 🙏🏼
Thanks a lot for sharing this video, and really nice work! The tabletop I'm working on doesn't have a 'river' of resin, instead it's scattered across the surface of the wood to fill holes, indentations, etc. What would you recommend I do when it comes to the sealing of wood and polishing of resin stage?
You could do the process in a very similar way. Applying the oil coat before you polish the resin surface will reduce the chances of the compound absorbing into the grain. For small areas you may wish to polish by hand which might reduce the spread of the compound over the wood areas.
Perfect done !!! 😍
Fantastic! Such a great video! Any differences to this if your using a white marble finish epoxy? Different compound etc etc????
Hi, thanks for commenting. The process and compound would be exactly the same as the video.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a question regarding the speed setting of my orbital sander (from 1 to 5) for each grid and polish stage. What’s your recommendation? Thanks a lot.
Hi Eduardo, we recommend a high speed but low pressure. You need to keep checking the surface of the item to make sure that it doesn't get warm, if it does move onto another part of the item.
Thank you very much for your prompt response.
Great video and very helpful. You used Danish oil to seal the wood before polishing with the compound. How long after sealing do you have to wait to polish. Is it possible to use like an Odies oil to seal before polishing as well?
It is not a product we have tested. However it looks to be made of oils and waxes so is likely to offer similar levels of protection. However test on a small area first to be safe.
I do love this - only problem is it's always done with PERFECTLY flat surfaces and most people don't struggle with that
We'd always recommend sending a piece through a planer thicknesser or setting up a router sled (as in our river table tutorial) to achieve a flat top surface before sanding and polishing. Although in theory you could sand it flat a) it would take a huge amount of time and b) the chance of ending up with a perfectly consistent flat top would be incredibly low.
@@glasscastresin right but I’m talking single dimensional, horizontal objects with no curves. Flat items require much less nuance. If you have a DA and ROS, you just move up grit. But applying epoxy and sanding down surfaces on a dynamic object is usually what people struggle with. Mastering a flat surface does not make one a master of non flat surfaces
Great video ... thanks!
Thanks, very well done!
If you use Glasscast50 and then put a layer of Glasscast3 on top, do you still need to polish the 50 in order to make the whole thing clear all the way through?
Hi Oliver,
You would apply the GlassCast 3 at the 'B' stage or key up the surface of the 50. Either way, you don't need to polish the surface first and any scratches from the keying process will be filled with new layer of resin.
Hi, thank you for this great tutorial 👍 I will do same steps but ı have question mark. You apply that polish also to wood. Are those polish can apply also for woods? Should ı apply only resin part or both of them?
I wish that; ı explained my self clear 😊
Its only really for polishing the resin itself and would be best to avoid getting it onto the wood as if it gets into the grain, it might alter the appearance of the wood itself.
Thank you for this. How much product and materials would I need for a bar top that measures 22ft x 2.5ft?
Assuming you mean how much resin would be required. You'd need a 15kg kit for our GlassCast3 to cover a countertop of this size.
Very useful video - thank you
Thanks John, we really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I'm glad that you enjoyed!
Thank you very much! Super useful video!👏🏻🙏🏻
Glad you enjoyed!
Great video! What, if anything, do you do differently on the edges of a table? Particularly if it has a rounded-over or chamfered edge?
You still sand it the same way, just take extra care to keep an even pressure so you sand evenly. On edges its easy to end up putting too much pressure on the corner if you are not careful.
@@glasscastresin thanks
This was exactly my question. Can you do a video on doing the edges? What is considered a single pass on the edge? Obviously you can't go up and down, do you go around it a 2nd time? how do you go about an edge with a round over or a more complicated router bit? How do you handle that?@@glasscastresin
@@sarahweerheim6123 For complicated or undulating surfaces you may find that sanding by hand is better. It may take more time than with a sander, but you'll have more control and a better feel for the contours in the edge.
Thank you. Quick question. I know in the video you had finished the wood. And then you continue to polish the epoxy. However, in the end it look like you took off some finish of the wood. So did you go back and finish the wood again?
It's inevitable that in polishing the resin the pad will cross over onto the wood and take off some of the coating. It's perfectly fine to go back and top this coating up once polishing is finished. It's recommended to give the wood a good clean first to remove any polishing compound which may have transferred onto the surface so as not to trap it under another layer of wood finish.
How do you keep a smile on your face during the whole process 😅
You just have to keep imagining the end result. 😆
Comprehensive ...very well done
Thanks Richard, it put us a bit of time to put this one together - not the actual filming/editing but the planning because we know its one area which causes a lot of headaches, especially if someone hasn't done a lot of sanding and polishing before and we wanted to make sure we covered everything including useful tips we've picked up through the years. Sanding and polishing can be really quite satisfying when you get the hang of it 🙂
Hey man, love the video. Used your technique and it worked great. I'm a professional artist. I work with multi-medium art. I'm reaching out because I'm stumped. I'm working on an epoxy table. It's 2 3/4" deep, with land, beaches, whales, boats, waves crashing against the shore... I'm 13 layers into it, nearly finished, and I noticed a line. It's about 2 layers below. I've been working on this for over a year, so you can imagine me screaming. All I can think of is to cut into the piece around the area, clean it up, and refill it with epoxy. I'm hoping someone else out there has a better solution. Any ideas, suggestions, or whatever??? Any help will be appreciated greatly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Unfortunately yes, the only way to get rid of the mark will be to physically remove it and then repair the layers afterwards.
@@glasscastresin thanks for the response. I'm going to remove the layers with a router and sand it back to a glass finish. I guess one doesn't become a master of his craft without suffering the errors that teach us. ;-)
Great video, going to redo the top of my bar. Where in the US can I get the PaiBoats NW1 Plus and the Top Finish 2?
I'm afraid I don't know any specific US based dealers or distributors although if you struggle, we can ship these to the US, no problems.
@@glasscastresin Can you tell me what the cost would be for both of those bottles of polish shipped to 32829? Thanks!
great video thank you
Hi there very useful video! I personally make art clocks using acrylic paint and to finish them off i put resin top coat over it (possibly 2 thin layers) would this process work for me? Thanks in advance
Hi Ben,
Yes the resin polishing process will still be the same. As long as you don't sand too much and break through the resin into the paint.
Can you start the wood + epoxy project by running the piece through a standard shop wood planner? Ray.
Yes you can. It can be useful if there is a lot of material to remove or a warp you are trying to sand out. A drum sander can also be used to do the same thing.
I have a few questions about the NW1 and Topfinish 2 polishing compounds.
1) Are they sold anywhere under a smaller quantity? I don't have many resin things to use it on.
2) Can I use it with a dremel tool on small resin projects?
3) If it *can* be used with a dremel tool, what would be the recommended buffing bit?
I can answer you, or i can try at least. So, yes, you can use your dremmel toold with this paste. You can find some other polishing paste from different suplier that does the job and in small quantities ( Meguiars). And you can buff it with the wool disk.
What would you say was the total time it took you from beginning to end to finish the polishing process?
You could estimate between 1-2 hours for a piece this size.
@@glasscastresin thanks.
What would you recommend for spot sanding and polishing? I did a small 17 by 17 project that came out pretty good but dripped off the edges. After it hardens I tried doing an additional epoxy repair by tripping epoxy on the places that it didn't cover. Unfortunately I ended up making it lumpy around the edges. Is it possible to sand and polish some areas but not mess with the good areas? Hope that makes some kind of sense?
@@greglegakis4177 Small areas can be polished by hand or a more precision rotary tool. Masking off the good areas will mean that they don't become scratched or scuffed by any oversanding.
Great video with useful info. I'm in Canada, can you ship worldwide? Thanks
Hi Derek, we can ship worldwide. When shipping to Canada we can ship any non dangerous goods no problem to all addresses, although dangerous goods including the GlassCast range can only be shipped to certain postcodes. If you'd like to email help@glasscastresin.com with any enquiries you have we'd be happy to assist.
Ive always learned from epoxy video’s that you need to sand you wood till 400 grit and not higher. Because then the wood will not absorb the wood oil. Why did you also sand the wood till 800 grit ? And not only the epoxy part ?
Hi Tim, in our experience there is no problem with oils and waxes adhering up to 800 grit on the wood. Secondly, if you did not sand the wood at the 800 grit stage, you may notice a dip in the resin.