I have had many ac systems that would slowly leak under vacuum but not under pressure. Fill em up and 3 years later they are still working just fine. Had a 1234yf a 6 months back was pulling my hair out. Tiny almost unnoticeable vac leak after a condenser replacement that was hemorrhaging by the way. Looked and looked found nothing. Eventually i just shut the valves on the machine while leak testing it to trick it into letting me fill it. Filled it with 1234yf and dye. Ran it for hours no leaks what so ever. The ac is still working just fine on that truck and this was last summer. Just shows you a vac leak isn’t always an actual leak. Ill put money on you could of charged that car and it would of never leaked out.
I'm glad I finally retired; bad enough when I did r12 to r134a change overs on vintage vehicles for many years and the issues related to those... Can't even begin to think how much fun working with 1234yf would be.....it's great that you had the patience and skill to see it all the way down to resolving the issue.
On the 2016 and up Civics everything leaks. The compressor, the condenser, the evap core, and the lines. If you hit the jackpot you might even get a car with all of them leaking lol.
Even though r744(CO2) is less efficient as a refrigerant I wish manufactures would have switched to it as our new system. We all know the real reason why and that was $$$. DuPont and Honeywell can’t make big bucks on CO2.
@@snap-off5383 correct. CO2 systems operate above 2000psi but we have other systems on the vehicle operating at those pressures. Hybrid compressors can be mounted remotely to elementary the need for the rubber lines in case become a concern. Explosion/shrapnel is a concern when dealing with those pressures and suffocation is a concern for evaporator core leaks(major). All system have drawbacks but the 1234yf cost is crazy.
I guess you work at a Honda dealership? If so I have a quick AC question... On my '06 Odyssey I had to repair the AC lines going to the rear AC unit (evaporator?) from a shop twice, due to corrosion on the lines. I see that the 2018 Odyssey removed the rear evaporator. Do you think Honda removed it because the AC lines under the van kept rusting/breaking? It's a fairly big design change and I wonder what triggered it.
Wrong. Only if you can pick up a leak with a sniffer, you should be replacing the compressor. They came out with a bulletin specifically stating that because everyone was just throwing compressors at them if they saw oil
Glad to see I’m not the only one fighting 1234yf leaks. I also wonder if the material quality is lower on these new cars or if the 1234yf is corrosive. I have seen more evaporator and condenser failures than I ever saw on 134a systems. They always have pinholes in the core.
That's one of the things that can make AC work so frustrating. Pull a vacuum and get a leak which you can't find, but under pressure won't leak. Or no leak under vacuum but leak under pressure. Been there.
I learned over the years that New is an acronym...N.E.W. Never Even Worked. I have had new parts hand me my butt more than once. I wish you good fortune my friend.
We've run into a few of those vacuum leaks that won't let you charge it fully. We don't have CO2 GM can pay for what we waste😁. Anyway, when it begins the vacuum test just close the valves so that the vacuum is only pulled on the hoses, then when it begins to charge that small amount open them to the car, usually easy to find the leak.
It's always nice to hear the vacuum noise when you remove condenser protective caps . Now in radiators , I check trans cooler for a vacuum leak before installing.
Bro, we have been sooooooooooo lucky. We have an R1234yf machine here in OKC. We're one of the only shops around with one, so we even get a lot of sub-work on late model A/C work. Allt that to say we just to recharges and if the machine says no, we say no and tell them to go to the dealer. The day we have to actually diagnose this stuff ... well I'm glad I'm not fulltime at the shop anymore.
I’ve had this happen to me before but learned to close your valves during vacuum testing and then open when it asked to full charge. I only do this when I know where the leak was and I have replaced the part.
Same thing. Installed new compresser. Vacuum checked, slight leak. Slight leak, slight leak. Charged system up to see or hear where the leak was. Ran vehicle, system operated normal. No leak while under pressure. Sucked it all out. Now there's no vacuum leak....
A little Nylog sealant or refrigeration oil on oring can help. You also have to be careful with Co2 because it dose contain some noncondensables. Nitrogen is a much better choice for pressure testing. If a system pressure tests fine but shows a small increase on the micron gauge that is a good sign of noncondensables or trace amounts of refrigerant in the oil especially if the system was open for an extended period of time. You can use a heat gun on parts of the system where you tend to have large amounts of oil condenser coils and evaporator coils. Triple evacuation can help but you really need a stand alone vacuum pump. Hope this helps.
I have replaced the front seal on a compressor its interesting how they work its two pieces and the two surfaces that make contact with each other is so flat and perfect that the refrigerant can't get through its spring loaded to keep them together so I can see how going from pressure then to vacuum would make it leak it's made to hold back pressure the same kind of pressure the EPA puts on manufacturers.
Yeah we got the machine last season, I’ve got some good experience with it now. I have had some come in with low refrigerant but past leak checks with the machine and have not come back yet so yeah.
I actually work as a Honda Tech and this is a known issue but Honda refuses to do a warranty/recall. Half of the ac jobs we do with the new systems are compressors.
I think Hondas have the most r1234yf problems. They come in all the time and we don’t even work on those cars but we have the machine. They are always empty and my machine finds no leaks and nothing with the sniffer. I just recharge and send it. No one has come back the past few years. I have suspected the compressor but with no evidence, I don’t want to get into it.
Hate using that 1234yf machine. So used to the quickness of r134 machine. Our new ac 1234 machine just yells at you, beep this beep that beep beep at that. 😒
They added all of these safety checks into a system that supposedly contains a refrigerant that is less harmful to the atmosphere. Press one wrong button during a charge and you get delayed an extra 20 minutes while the machine flushes the oil from the hoses.
@@ThePracticalMechanic yup "less harmful". Lol. But yes one wrong and your Waiting all so it can tell you something or another still ain't right🤬. We joke on the shop saying its a woman who made this machine cus we just can make them happy 😂
@@n9woxwell the that we know as we need a class certificate to even touch a tank of 1234fy. Its flamable yes but its burning velocity is low. its possible it can ignite hence why its labeled flamable.
Thanks for sharing! What a headache.. look into an Ultrasonic Leak Detector. It doesn’t matter the refrigerant type. It super amplifies the sound of the leak and you can zero in on it. Just food for thought! 👍
I had a similar issue when I recently rebuilt my AC system on my 01 Acura Integra. Replaced compressor, evaporator, condenser, expansion valve and receiver/drier. Vacuum hold test showed a very small leak and dropped from 27 to 25 over 1 hr. So I figured there was a small leak somewhere, charged it and checked for leaks throughout the entire AC system - I found none. Used dye/UV light, sniffer, soapy water, etc. So I was thinking maybe after the system was charged, the oil in the refrigerant could have helped to further seal the O-rings or it simply just didn't leak while the system was under pressure. Also when vacuum bleeding cooling systems - Sometimes I noticed vacuum hold test would drop a little, but after filling it with coolant and running the engine with rad cap on, I would notice no leaks.
Us dealer techs know compressors are the cause of A/C leaks on the 10th gen Civics 98% of the time. Honda has warranty extension on condensers although I have never had a Civic that needed a condenser to fix a failed vacuum test. I usually sell the compressor and replace condenser under warranty.
Please pin something about this, those 2016+ civics have a bulliten on the condenser and i believe an extended warranty as well, honda keeps throwing stuff on their information system basically about "replace the condenser first", will admit if its not the condenser, we did a lot of compressors on them too
Compressors Leak pretty common a whole erra of vehicles left oil marks under hood above compressor see tracks. Then 134a came out and terqoise o rings and 123 here we are. Lots of cars charged with Propane works really good. Didn't know contaminated a few machines.
Uggghhhh. These kind of problems happen every once in a blue moon and no one would ever believe it if it didn’t happen to them. So looking forward to 1234YF🙄.
I always just clicked through those prompts for the test they try to have you do when you charge, sometimes it takes awhile for dye to finally come out of a leak so for small leaks at my shop we just click through and say we performed the test and they passed
I hate those new 1234yf machines. I go through the same crap with them on different makes and models. Leaks during a vacuum, but not after it's charged.
I have a co worker that will disconnect hoses and plug them with those red caps and then vacuum the system .A good way to see if its the a/c compressor is the leaking component
I feel ya. I had a 15 Mercedes Benz C300 with a CEL. The code was P052E which is the PCV system. I replace it after a 9 hour tear down and drive the car and the CEL comes back on... this time the code was P1525 which is a MB specific code and the internet told it was an electrical problem with the cam solenoids while alldata said it was a stuck open check valve from the EVAP. I tested the camshaft solenoids and all was good. Tried replacing them anyway nothing. So then I go to MB tech info website and its a check valve code. After 2 weeks of searching I found theres a check valve right near where I was working and it had come apart and a rubber check flap had fallen out 🤦♂️.
It,s uplifting to hear of issues solved but moreover, the honesty to not do an evap core if it wasn't an issue of, Some people might have just kept firing a parts cannon at it regardless to get max $$$. NOT MIKE THOUGH. You sir, have i integrity. Well done.
I still don't know why we are testing ac systems with seals that are designed to seal pressure with vacuum....shouldn't we be testing a pressurized system with......pressure?
That’s a testament to your commitment to quality. It certainly isn’t uncommon to see a small vacuum leak on these 1234yf systems. I’ve been fighting with it since Chevrolet introduced it in 2017. They can make you go crazy.
Gotta love it ,and the customer wants A/C repaired but customer wants you to tell him why the repair cost more than the car is worth? What pressure you use with the CO2 ? We push 450psi most times you can hear it at that pressure ,I hate sniffers
DuPont has done more harm to our HVAC systems than they have helped the "climate". Funny how when R12 suddenly wasn't good for the planet they had a new R134A that was better. Then all of a sudden they have this R1234yf stuff that is thousands of times "better" than R134A. Got a few more years before their run on R1234yf wanes. It's about a 20 year cycle since it first started. Wonder what they'll come up with next and what it'll mean for those of us that work on the crap? I doubt it'll be good.
I see now I’m going to hate this new A/C system in heavy equipment, I’m fixing to update on a 86 C10, I was going from R12 to R134 but I guess I need to update it to the 1234 system or store some R134 for repairs later, I just wonder how long it will be for the R134 disappears like the Freez12/R12.. do I go with the newer stuff or 134??
With the price of the 1234yf I would not use it as a retrofit at this time. Some manufactures are still releasing 134a systems so it’s not going to disappear in stores for quite some time. Good thinking about buying some spare cans just in case. Especially because of the current shortages.
Our snap-on/robin-air R-134A machine wont let us charge without vacuum! Ive got an 08 liberty thats been kicking my A@@ warranted a compressor we f Did last summer then found a leaking condenser which led to replacing a leaking radiator! I charged it and it was blowing 90F out of the vent walked over to the machine and pressure on the low side was well over 150psi and before I could even react all the PAG/refrigerant blew right out of the bottom of the compressor!! I know for a fact i didn’t over charge it! I think there is some kind of blockage! The sucky thing is its a waiter….And he couldn’t leave it so we had to un plug it and send him! I hate it i just want it figured out
Honda’s quality is 💩 now. In my area of the north east we see condensers or compressors leak almost on every dam car model we have (Honda tech). Warranty extensions covering the condensers but not one for the compressor. Even though visually you can see the refrigerant oil pouring out the compressors, Honda says they don’t leak though lol.
What does it mean on a 134 system if when your vacuuming the high side you hear air sucking in from the low side port does that mean the compressor is bad ?
I was wondering the same thing about labor and parts for this one. Doubt he will reply but customer was lucky to have a competent person to find the root cause of their issue.
Price wise, I do not remember, what we charged for was our standard r1234yf fee, and labor to RR the parts I replaced, plus parts. the extra time I spent finding the leak was not charged to the customer. I did get paid to warranty the condenser
Hi did you ever do your update diagnostic tool cart ver 2.5 on your Mac roll cart with the screen?? Just thinking about doing mine the same thanks great videos by the way👍
Anyone have info on this CO2 for diagnoses? I don't care about warranty, but feel bad to charge the customer $500 for freon and not finding any leaks with dye.
Illegal to use it though, The feds put R1234yf under the clean air act as an option for the manufacturers to use to claim more offsets for other vehicles that pollute. That made it an emissions component that cannot be tampered with. So it falls into the same areas as DPF/EGR deletes or removing a converter. Get caught and the fines are $$$ just look at all the companies that the feds are going after now for tampering. They are ringing up big money.
@@Blazer02LS im just one person that owns a camry that has that system. If it fails its getting 134 . But I understand a shop aspect that has to comply. But I do know that the 1234 is flammable and not safe as well. I don't understand anything going on in our world anymore. Pure craziness.
Can we all please stop saying one two three four yf and just say twelve thirty-four yf? Much easier and doesn't sound like we're counting for the first time in kindergarten.
I've been in the automotive industry for roughly about 3 and 1/2 to 4 years I am now going to work on diesels big rigs would anyone please advise me recommend me have more SAE or metric for sockets and wrenches
Depends what you're working on. Trailers are mostly still SAE, and newer trucks are pretty much all metric besides some suspension stuff. I would see what the shop you're working for supplies before going too deep into buying stuff. The fleet I work for supplies sockets and wrenches above 1-1/2", axle nut sockets, 3/4 torque wrenches and guns, etc. As long as you have a full set up through 1/2" drive you're set, and that's how it's been through most of the shops I've been in in doing maintenance. I do have a couple 3/4 drive ratchets, breaker bar, and a 15/16 through 2-1/2 socket set, but I don't use them on an every day basis.
BEEN THERE DONE THAT,,,,BUT ITS NOT JUST R1234Y,,IT CAN BE ALSO ON OLD ....THIS NEW TECH,,LEARN IT, ITS HERE TO STAY,,WILL MAKE YOU MORE MONEY,,,SAD BUT THAT LIFE,,,TNX FOR VIDEO.
I have had many ac systems that would slowly leak under vacuum but not under pressure. Fill em up and 3 years later they are still working just fine. Had a 1234yf a 6 months back was pulling my hair out. Tiny almost unnoticeable vac leak after a condenser replacement that was hemorrhaging by the way. Looked and looked found nothing. Eventually i just shut the valves on the machine while leak testing it to trick it into letting me fill it. Filled it with 1234yf and dye. Ran it for hours no leaks what so ever. The ac is still working just fine on that truck and this was last summer. Just shows you a vac leak isn’t always an actual leak. Ill put money on you could of charged that car and it would of never leaked out.
Yessir. Definitely experience this!
There's a reason my shop foreman used to tell me the YF in R1234YF stood for You're F**ked.
I'm glad I finally retired; bad enough when I did r12 to r134a change overs on vintage vehicles for many years and the issues related to those... Can't even begin to think how much fun working with 1234yf would be.....it's great that you had the patience and skill to see it all the way down to resolving the issue.
On the 2016 and up Civics everything leaks. The compressor, the condenser, the evap core, and the lines. If you hit the jackpot you might even get a car with all of them leaking lol.
Sounds like one of those cars where you start asking, where’s the gas can and some matches?
Helpline told me once to park the car on some train tracks and walk away 🤪
Where is the nearest cliff and will it make it there in it's current state?
I had one like that last week
robotteck I don’t know what happened. It just stalled RIGHT over the tracks🤷🏼.
1234yf is so flammable already you won't need a gas can , just partial charge and light her up 😂😂
Even though r744(CO2) is less efficient as a refrigerant I wish manufactures would have switched to it as our new system. We all know the real reason why and that was $$$. DuPont and Honeywell can’t make big bucks on CO2.
CO2 needs much higher pressures no?
@@snap-off5383 correct. CO2 systems operate above 2000psi but we have other systems on the vehicle operating at those pressures. Hybrid compressors can be mounted remotely to elementary the need for the rubber lines in case become a concern. Explosion/shrapnel is a concern when dealing with those pressures and suffocation is a concern for evaporator core leaks(major). All system have drawbacks but the 1234yf cost is crazy.
We do alot of compressors at honda, they have a bulletin out for certain years to replace the compressor if its leaking from the seal.
I guess you work at a Honda dealership? If so I have a quick AC question... On my '06 Odyssey I had to repair the AC lines going to the rear AC unit (evaporator?) from a shop twice, due to corrosion on the lines. I see that the 2018 Odyssey removed the rear evaporator. Do you think Honda removed it because the AC lines under the van kept rusting/breaking? It's a fairly big design change and I wonder what triggered it.
@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec I bet cost savings played a big part in that decision
But Honda says the compressors don’t leak. They say it’s the condenser. Even when you see dye coming out of the compressor
Yup. Especially around these year models. Easy to misdiagnose as well
Wrong. Only if you can pick up a leak with a sniffer, you should be replacing the compressor. They came out with a bulletin specifically stating that because everyone was just throwing compressors at them if they saw oil
Tough one... Glad you finally got it, and can put it behind ya !!!
Glad to see I’m not the only one fighting 1234yf leaks. I also wonder if the material quality is lower on these new cars or if the 1234yf is corrosive. I have seen more evaporator and condenser failures than I ever saw on 134a systems. They always have pinholes in the core.
I would agree on the corrosive comment!
Your 100% correct 1234yf is actually extremely corrosive!
I start with 5 psi nitrogen and move up i notice you'll find leaks with 1234 at lower psi they are a shitty system
Corrosive and flammable
Even Honda is not infallible.
That's one of the things that can make AC work so frustrating. Pull a vacuum and get a leak which you can't find, but under pressure won't leak. Or no leak under vacuum but leak under pressure. Been there.
I learned over the years that New is an acronym...N.E.W. Never Even Worked. I have had new parts hand me my butt more than once. I wish you good fortune my friend.
Was not aware of this new refrigerant. Customer was lucky to have you get to the root cause of their problems. Thanks for sharing.
We've run into a few of those vacuum leaks that won't let you charge it fully. We don't have CO2 GM can pay for what we waste😁. Anyway, when it begins the vacuum test just close the valves so that the vacuum is only pulled on the hoses, then when it begins to charge that small amount open them to the car, usually easy to find the leak.
Clever...
What's our new freon called? Funny you should ask.... 1234 You're F--ed!
Like EVAP systems vacuum is different than pressure. Not sure why the oems don't understand that.
Saving the planet at the expense of sanity.
“Saving” the planet. Yeah right.
It's always nice to hear the vacuum noise when you remove condenser protective caps .
Now in radiators , I check trans cooler for a vacuum leak before installing.
Bro, we have been sooooooooooo lucky. We have an R1234yf machine here in OKC. We're one of the only shops around with one, so we even get a lot of sub-work on late model A/C work. Allt that to say we just to recharges and if the machine says no, we say no and tell them to go to the dealer. The day we have to actually diagnose this stuff ... well I'm glad I'm not fulltime at the shop anymore.
wow that's a bummer sometimes we get our butts kicked over silly stuff glad you figured if out and could share 👍
I’ve had this happen to me before but learned to close your valves during vacuum testing and then open when it asked to full charge. I only do this when I know where the leak was and I have replaced the part.
They use the same compressors for 134a, I bet. At least some chevy products I've seen have a little smiley face with a message saying "134a or 1234yf"
You can trick the A/C machine to fill the AC system just close the valve
Same thing. Installed new compresser. Vacuum checked, slight leak. Slight leak, slight leak.
Charged system up to see or hear where the leak was. Ran vehicle, system operated normal. No leak while under pressure.
Sucked it all out. Now there's no vacuum leak....
my goodness, that is super frustrating...
I've had the same thing happen to me and I tricked the ac machine by pinchingthe service lines during the vacuum leak test 😊
A little Nylog sealant or refrigeration oil on oring can help. You also have to be careful with Co2 because it dose contain some noncondensables. Nitrogen is a much better choice for pressure testing. If a system pressure tests fine but shows a small increase on the micron gauge that is a good sign of noncondensables or trace amounts of refrigerant in the oil especially if the system was open for an extended period of time. You can use a heat gun on parts of the system where you tend to have large amounts of oil condenser coils and evaporator coils. Triple evacuation can help but you really need a stand alone vacuum pump. Hope this helps.
I have replaced the front seal on a compressor its interesting how they work its two pieces and the two surfaces that make contact with each other is so flat and perfect that the refrigerant can't get through its spring loaded to keep them together so I can see how going from pressure then to vacuum would make it leak it's made to hold back pressure the same kind of pressure the EPA puts on manufacturers.
Yeah we got the machine last season, I’ve got some good experience with it now. I have had some come in with low refrigerant but past leak checks with the machine and have not come back yet so yeah.
I actually work as a Honda Tech and this is a known issue but Honda refuses to do a warranty/recall. Half of the ac jobs we do with the new systems are compressors.
I think Hondas have the most r1234yf problems. They come in all the time and we don’t even work on those cars but we have the machine. They are always empty and my machine finds no leaks and nothing with the sniffer. I just recharge and send it. No one has come back the past few years. I have suspected the compressor but with no evidence, I don’t want to get into it.
Worked at a Honda dealership. Veey common for the compressors and condensors to leak. Just dont tell american honda. They say compressors never leak.
Thanks for the information.
Hate using that 1234yf machine. So used to the quickness of r134 machine. Our new ac 1234 machine just yells at you, beep this beep that beep beep at that. 😒
They added all of these safety checks into a system that supposedly contains a refrigerant that is less harmful to the atmosphere.
Press one wrong button during a charge and you get delayed an extra 20 minutes while the machine flushes the oil from the hoses.
@@ThePracticalMechanic yup "less harmful". Lol. But yes one wrong and your Waiting all so it can tell you something or another still ain't right🤬. We joke on the shop saying its a woman who made this machine cus we just can make them happy 😂
And 1234YF is flammable
@@n9woxwell the that we know as we need a class certificate to even touch a tank of 1234fy. Its flamable yes but its burning velocity is low. its possible it can ignite hence why its labeled flamable.
Thanks for sharing! What a headache.. look into an Ultrasonic Leak Detector. It doesn’t matter the refrigerant type. It super amplifies the sound of the leak and you can zero in on it. Just food for thought! 👍
I had a similar issue when I recently rebuilt my AC system on my 01 Acura Integra. Replaced compressor, evaporator, condenser, expansion valve and receiver/drier. Vacuum hold test showed a very small leak and dropped from 27 to 25 over 1 hr. So I figured there was a small leak somewhere, charged it and checked for leaks throughout the entire AC system - I found none. Used dye/UV light, sniffer, soapy water, etc. So I was thinking maybe after the system was charged, the oil in the refrigerant could have helped to further seal the O-rings or it simply just didn't leak while the system was under pressure. Also when vacuum bleeding cooling systems - Sometimes I noticed vacuum hold test would drop a little, but after filling it with coolant and running the engine with rad cap on, I would notice no leaks.
I just uploaded a UA-cam video on my account the other day, doing a Ranger and same thing. Compressor seal was not leaking pressure, only vacuum.
Great story!!! Hope u had a whiskey at the end of that day!
Thanks for sharing experience with this new system..
Us dealer techs know compressors are the cause of A/C leaks on the 10th gen Civics 98% of the time. Honda has warranty extension on condensers although I have never had a Civic that needed a condenser to fix a failed vacuum test. I usually sell the compressor and replace condenser under warranty.
Please pin something about this, those 2016+ civics have a bulliten on the condenser and i believe an extended warranty as well, honda keeps throwing stuff on their information system basically about "replace the condenser first", will admit if its not the condenser, we did a lot of compressors on them too
Compressors Leak pretty common a whole erra of vehicles left oil marks under hood above compressor see tracks. Then 134a came out and terqoise o rings and 123 here we are. Lots of cars charged with Propane works really good. Didn't know contaminated a few machines.
Uggghhhh. These kind of problems happen every once in a blue moon and no one would ever believe it if it didn’t happen to them. So looking forward to 1234YF🙄.
I always just clicked through those prompts for the test they try to have you do when you charge, sometimes it takes awhile for dye to finally come out of a leak so for small leaks at my shop we just click through and say we performed the test and they passed
Yes they wear out .depending on mileage ,that's the first thing that go.
I hate those new 1234yf machines. I go through the same crap with them on different makes and models. Leaks during a vacuum, but not after it's charged.
bro is sweating just talking about that ac not working
Our condensers are trash too …….. look out for those ! 2016-19 civic owners
I have a co worker that will disconnect hoses and plug them with those red caps and then vacuum the system .A good way to see if its the a/c compressor is the leaking component
I feel ya. I had a 15 Mercedes Benz C300 with a CEL. The code was P052E which is the PCV system. I replace it after a 9 hour tear down and drive the car and the CEL comes back on... this time the code was P1525 which is a MB specific code and the internet told it was an electrical problem with the cam solenoids while alldata said it was a stuck open check valve from the EVAP. I tested the camshaft solenoids and all was good. Tried replacing them anyway nothing. So then I go to MB tech info website and its a check valve code. After 2 weeks of searching I found theres a check valve right near where I was working and it had come apart and a rubber check flap had fallen out 🤦♂️.
As of right now I do not service r 123yf systems. The reason is the equipment and freon is very expensive, as I very rarely do ac work
It,s uplifting to hear of issues solved but moreover, the honesty to not do an evap core if it wasn't an issue of, Some people might have just kept firing a parts cannon at it regardless to get max $$$. NOT MIKE THOUGH. You sir, have i integrity. Well done.
There's a warranty extension on the condensers for the 16-19 model years I believe.
Only for leaks not damage this one was crushed shut by debris on the lower half
@@flatratemaster Ahhh. Gotcha. Yeah Hondas aren't usually known for AC reliability haha.
Will be back for the Core
One of those days huh😬curious...how much diag time did u get paid for🤔situations like this the diag pay gets cut off at some point😔
I really hate shit like that
i would have probably quit my job if i had this problem, lol
4:37 new word... fffLeak hahahaha... car repair can be frustrating 🤪
Sounds almost as bad as the Mercedes I work on!
I still don't know why we are testing ac systems with seals that are designed to seal pressure with vacuum....shouldn't we be testing a pressurized system with......pressure?
I have compressors seals leaking before and every time they only leak under a vacuum. Must be the shape of the compressor seal
At that point close the 1234yf machines valves during the vacuum leak test and change it anyway.
I didn't want a comeback with a small leak
That’s a testament to your commitment to quality. It certainly isn’t uncommon to see a small vacuum leak on these 1234yf systems. I’ve been fighting with it since Chevrolet introduced it in 2017. They can make you go crazy.
Gotta love it ,and the customer wants A/C repaired but customer wants you to tell him why the repair cost more than the car is worth? What pressure you use with the CO2 ? We push 450psi most times you can hear it at that pressure ,I hate sniffers
200 psi
Just run the leak test with the valves shut when you can't sniff a pressure leak.
DuPont has done more harm to our HVAC systems than they have helped the "climate". Funny how when R12 suddenly wasn't good for the planet they had a new R134A that was better. Then all of a sudden they have this R1234yf stuff that is thousands of times "better" than R134A. Got a few more years before their run on R1234yf wanes. It's about a 20 year cycle since it first started. Wonder what they'll come up with next and what it'll mean for those of us that work on the crap? I doubt it'll be good.
I had the same problem on a 2017 civic to I just tried that and it work
That’s why I just want to part out trucks 😡
I see now I’m going to hate this new A/C system in heavy equipment, I’m fixing to update on a 86 C10, I was going from R12 to R134 but I guess I need to update it to the 1234 system or store some R134 for repairs later, I just wonder how long it will be for the R134 disappears like the Freez12/R12.. do I go with the newer stuff or 134??
With the price of the 1234yf I would not use it as a retrofit at this time. Some manufactures are still releasing 134a systems so it’s not going to disappear in stores for quite some time.
Good thinking about buying some spare cans just in case. Especially because of the current shortages.
I have a 30lb bottle of R 12 I don't need.
Dunno, but I just bought a bunch of cans "in case".
Had this car. I sold the car rather than fucking with Honda’s shit quality. Buy older cars and just keep those as long as possible
Rough Day.🍺
Our snap-on/robin-air R-134A machine wont let us charge without vacuum! Ive got an 08 liberty thats been kicking my A@@ warranted a compressor we f
Did last summer then found a leaking condenser which led to replacing a leaking radiator! I charged it and it was blowing 90F out of the vent walked over to the machine and pressure on the low side was well over 150psi and before I could even react all the
PAG/refrigerant blew right out of the bottom of the compressor!! I know for a fact i didn’t over charge it! I think there is some kind of blockage! The sucky thing is its a waiter….And he couldn’t leave it so we had to un plug it and send him! I hate it i just want it figured out
Honda’s quality is 💩 now. In my area of the north east we see condensers or compressors leak almost on every dam car model we have (Honda tech). Warranty extensions covering the condensers but not one for the compressor. Even though visually you can see the refrigerant oil pouring out the compressors, Honda says they don’t leak though lol.
R134 and R1234 are compatible.
They also make 1234 to 134 machine fittings. Fill it and use the sniffer.
What does it mean on a 134 system if when your vacuuming the high side you hear air sucking in from the low side port does that mean the compressor is bad ?
Sounds like a bad Schrader valve. I would replace it and see if the leak stops.
How much did it end up costing customer?
I was wondering the same thing about labor and parts for this one. Doubt he will reply but customer was lucky to have a competent person to find the root cause of their issue.
Price wise, I do not remember, what we charged for was our standard r1234yf fee, and labor to RR the parts I replaced, plus parts. the extra time I spent finding the leak was not charged to the customer. I did get paid to warranty the condenser
Thank you for this video
Nice work!!!!!
Hi did you ever do your update diagnostic tool cart ver 2.5 on your Mac roll cart with the screen?? Just thinking about doing mine the same thanks great videos by the way👍
I have not
Could you have just closed the valves on the service ports to get passed the vac leak?
I could but didn't want a comeback for a small leak
Anyone have info on this CO2 for diagnoses? I don't care about warranty, but feel bad to charge the customer $500 for freon and not finding any leaks with dye.
ua-cam.com/video/5e_IrgS-hwE/v-deo.html
Compressor don’t leak on civics 😁
Long live R134a!
I hope you got paid for all that diag time!!!
I have heard that r134 would work in those new systems. Is that correct?
Illegal to use it though, The feds put R1234yf under the clean air act as an option for the manufacturers to use to claim more offsets for other vehicles that pollute. That made it an emissions component that cannot be tampered with. So it falls into the same areas as DPF/EGR deletes or removing a converter. Get caught and the fines are $$$ just look at all the companies that the feds are going after now for tampering. They are ringing up big money.
@@Blazer02LS im just one person that owns a camry that has that system. If it fails its getting 134 . But I understand a shop aspect that has to comply. But I do know that the 1234 is flammable and not safe as well. I don't understand anything going on in our world anymore. Pure craziness.
Can we all please stop saying one two three four yf and just say twelve thirty-four yf? Much easier and doesn't sound like we're counting for the first time in kindergarten.
I've been in the automotive industry for roughly about 3 and 1/2 to 4 years I am now going to work on diesels big rigs would anyone please advise me recommend me have more SAE or metric for sockets and wrenches
Depends what you're working on. Trailers are mostly still SAE, and newer trucks are pretty much all metric besides some suspension stuff. I would see what the shop you're working for supplies before going too deep into buying stuff. The fleet I work for supplies sockets and wrenches above 1-1/2", axle nut sockets, 3/4 torque wrenches and guns, etc. As long as you have a full set up through 1/2" drive you're set, and that's how it's been through most of the shops I've been in in doing maintenance. I do have a couple 3/4 drive ratchets, breaker bar, and a 15/16 through 2-1/2 socket set, but I don't use them on an every day basis.
Really depends on the brands you work on, they vary so mush, some are very SAE others are a mix some are all metric
Some more junk ideas just to make everyone's life miserable.
Flat rate bad day
say it with me, twelve thirty four y f.
Great video..
the 1234yf machines are terrible
Honda A/C sucks and so does YF
"I made a mistake"... The problem is not with the car but with you
BEEN THERE DONE THAT,,,,BUT ITS NOT JUST R1234Y,,IT CAN BE ALSO ON OLD ....THIS NEW TECH,,LEARN IT, ITS HERE TO STAY,,WILL MAKE YOU MORE MONEY,,,SAD BUT THAT LIFE,,,TNX FOR VIDEO.