3 Common Signs Your TXV has Failed Causing Poor A/C System Cooling
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2017
- Welcome back to the shop! Today we have a TXV based A/C system that will not cool down the vehicle.
Come along as we diagnose what is wrong through A/C Manifold Gauge pressure diagnosis.
A good set of A/C Manifold Gauges are invaluable when diagnosing A/C concerns-
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My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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A good set of A/C Manifold Gauges are invaluable when diagnosing A/C concerns-
amzn.to/2g8Bkae
Would the same apply to gm ?
Garth Clark m
Great video... my question is can an expansion valve be replaced with a orifice tube?
FordTechMakuloco what size charging hose is on your master cool gauges , is it 1/2acme x 1/2 acme for the yellow charging hose
Your a busy man and I so appreciate what you do here , helped me at least 4 separate times on my fords 03 focus, 96 cobra, 97ranger and now a 05 expedition EB .
If you wouldn’t mind, free advice on the expedition?
It’s full of Freon , the previous owner charged it up with some sort of ac pro crap. I diagnosed it to have a leaking high side port , got it to seal ( mostly ) and now it’s only mildly cooling (70 deg maybe) on 100 deg days yesterday I check it and it was 60 low and 300 high on a 105 deg day .txv valve ? Or fan clutch ? Or ?? It’s an aftermarket one ,have no idea who sold it , just know it’s not a Motorcraft I don’t want to throw parts at it till I have a better direction. I’m not afraid of the work. Totally appreciate your response!!!
I know you probably will never see this but thank you from the bottom of my heart bro. My txv would not equalize after watching for 2 hours and I changed it and I get 36 degree vent temps now and its 94 degrees!! It's never blown this cold since I bought it in 2014.
The more I watch your videos, the more I respect men (and women) that take pride in being a great mechanic. *Honestly, you guys are mechanical surgeons.* I admire how much intelligence it takes to work on vehicles of today.
Mechanics are just like surgeons .Only we wash our hands after the operation and before we go to the bathroom
Agreed
Automotive AC systems are the last great frontier of the unknown for me. I recently purchased a set of manifold gauges a couple days ago and have been crunching on system operational parameters and things were about about 85% clear to me. This video brought me to 100%.
Thanks for always producing videos that are sufficiently detailed. One thing that sets you apart is you explain the WHY, and not just the HOW.
Fantastic video Brian! Thanks for taking the time to talk about the system operation and for dissecting the valve. Super informative. Looking forward to the news. Thanks!
First off, love the channel, and your easy to understand repairs and methods. THANK YOU AND KEEP THEM COMING. My 2002 Merc Benz S430 (W220) A/C stopped working after I replaced the windshield wiper hose (with the heater wire/ cable inside). The unit small red light is on indicating the system works, but will not blow cold air. The clutch does engage, on then off, constantly. The typical reset feature/ trick doesn't work for whatever this error is currently. I checked the relays/ switched and replaced them as well. Assuming the system may have been low on refrigerant, I filled it with what it took in, which appeared to be almost two full "tall" cans of AC Pro. Reset the system and the air came on "absolutely freezing cold" for about two minutes then shut off again. After resetting and attempting to make it stay on, it wouldn't reset anymore after four attempts. I noticed a clear liquid had leaked from the bottom center of the car down the driveway to the rear of the car, no smell or color, but thicker than water.
The next day, with the engine running and the air refilled and reset once more, I heard a loud hissing and bursting flow of air or spray from under the hood, front drivers side for about 40 seconds then stopped. I believe it was a pressure relief vale of some sort !!! Scared the &%$#@^& %$#%^&%#@ out of me to be exact. The clutch still engages, on then off, constantly. Whats wrong with the cars AC ????? What would you recommend I check or replace???? No AC for the past four months now...
Mr. excellent video you're a hell of a technician you should be teaching, thank you so much you just save me a bunch of money👏👍
This is one of the best videos explaining how the system works. I took a screenshot of the diagram and wrote in what each part does and the direction of freon flow.
Great video. I find ac fix videos the best. I appreciate you taking the time.
Thanks I realized now when I changed compressor and drier and TX valve thanks again
Thank you for your explanation of a TXV.
awesome video! super helpful and informative! helped me diagnose that my compressor is bad. my pressures equalized and my gauges show that I have a low, high side at 88 and high, low side at 60.
Excellent video, so far this is the only one I've found that shows clear differences between comp and TXV failures.
Hell, some if not a lot of shops just change both parts along with the condenser to get a better chance of a successful fix.
So true
Great video, thanks for the great troubleshooting with the manifold gauges .
An excellent presentation ,concisely explained.
Thank you.
You are a genius. The technicians I have been too have no idea about the valves and what the pressure should be etc. You are like an engineer. I am going to attempt to change the expansion valve myself to save some cash as this ac story is starting to cost alot as different people have been working on mine and I need to pay each time.
Great video , thanks so much. Especially liked how you explained the Mechanical Operation of the TXV valve. Awesome.
Great video. I've been trying to explain this to the brain dead with little success. Made them watch this video a few times and now they seem to be coming around. Thanks for making my job easier. SUBSCRIBED! THANKS!
A great detailed investigation into the workings of a dodgy a/c system. Expensive misdiagnosis by previous tech and the necessity to find a tech that excels in his field.
Why would anyone down vote this video? I've never even heard of TXV, so I learned something. A/C is a bitch, so learning something new about it is always good, glad I subscribed to this guy a few weeks ago. Had to, bought a 2004 Explorer with the hated 5r55s transmission. I did fix the A/C and wife is happy. This is an awesome channel period.
So true. Happy wife equals happy life! Great video.
Dude you sir are the man.
Well done mate, you teach real well, good on you men.
Great video. Working on my 05 Aviator. I assumed there was a blockage or front txv went down. You have given me confirmation. I had the same problem but pressure would equalize soon as i turned the engine off. Flushed out the system and cold ac again. Thx
How do you flush out the system?
simply that is the BEST TXV video, thanks alot sharing your knowledge
Great explanation and fix! Thanks for this diagnosis.
I think my. TXV’s are going bad in my big truck. Lines leading to sleeper ac freeze up sometimes and front ac does not cool. Great videos. Thank you.
Got into an accident 5 years ago and the AC in my 2005 expedition hasn't worked since. Whistling sound coming from under the dash, no compressor function and will not retain freon. The collision center said it was always broke and they weren't going to fall for it. So here I am trying to fix it myself. 210,650 miles. And I love it like its new. No AC and all she's still my big baby
the picture are not clear boss, but your explanation is good, thank you for sharing of knowledge
very well done video. thanks!
Nice info great concise share of txv system expansion valve...
Brian your the real deal very first to ever mention superheat most don’t what it is or the reason for it
how to calculate and adjust it on cars? System capacity is so small compared to a building AC
Great videos! One tip that would be helpful to those who are new to the workings of the A/C system, and to using Manifold Gauges is, you could include the position of the Manifold Gauge valves for each of the tests that you do. During one test you may only need one valve open, but during another test you may need all of them open, or a combination of open and closed valves. This would have been helpful to me when I first started. Thanks, and keep the great videos coming!
You dont need to open the valves on the manifold unless you are adding freon or recovering the system. Each nob opens each side to the yellow center hose. You use the blue nob to open the yellow to the system ONLY when you have it attached to a can of freon. Never open the red when you have a bottle or can hooked to the yellow hose or you could introduce high pressure to a can that cannot take 250 psi or whatever your high side is running. You'll open both when you're recovering the system or pulling a vacuum. It's really simple. 👍
Lol and I just noticed this comment is 5 years old lol you probably are a pro by now lol
Wow! I can’t believe that was 5 years ago! It doesn’t feel like it.😂
Thanks for your input! I don’t work on AC systems all that often, so I usually have to revisit the procedure to make sure that I’m doing it correctly.
Hey man just want to thank you for all the help that you have given me I have a 2000 Ford F-150 4 x 4 I have replaced timing chains timing chain gears oil pump and so on due to your UA-cam videos thank you couldn't have got through it without you sorry for the length of the chat but I have a shutter in my rear end coming out of 5th gear on bypass can't quite figure out what that might be transmission or rear end any idea
You are the Ford God!
Excellent work , keep up the great education
I like your video very much. It's really great. I'll keep an eye on your channel. I am your fan and I will support you.
Excellent video, you are so kool for letting us all know this info, that can save big dollars, thank you so much and hope you get rich, or already are.
Astonishing this video popped up in my reccomends....was just leaving out the door to get compressor (High-Low/Low-High)...might get lucky if it's expansion valve....cheap part & i was getting a decc. filter anyway too...my compressor cycling even sounded identical.
Thanks for the video!
I do HVAC For a living and always working on our vehicles. Pretty cool learning about theses auto TXV's.
nice video, thanks
great vid bro. very interesting. guarantee a rewatch is gonna happen. Great info!
Really enjoy your videos. Thank you
My 03 Aviator has that same problem... warm air from the console, but cold from the rear ... I thought it was a touch low.. my gauges did exactly as you showed...Now I know what to do...Thanks
Michael Owen did you ever fix it?
Great video. Helped a lot.
Intelligent dude
Hooooly cow! You will never know how long it took me to find this clip! lol Thank you very much for the infromation!
Good video. I leave blower motor on to make pressure rise faster when compressor is off.
this is also the best way to dry moisture out of the cabin expender so smelly mildew does not grow on it 👍🏻
Thanks, very good video
sir Nice lecture thank you
Nice job! Thanks!
Nice job with video Brian. Looks like a good fix!
It sure was I hope they were happy with it.
@@FordTechMakuloco
I have a Ford f150 2010 king ranch drivers side behind center panel the actuator there is a arm mine is attached to actuator but hanging down not attacked to anything can you help me
@@FordTechMakuloco 2006 mazda 3s 2.3L auto sedan 335 k miles
I have this problem the does car not over heating . Theonly part I have not changed is expansion valve and high and low sensors I charged up with 134a no leak filler shop said I need a new compressor and high line I replaced myself
New parts
Ac compressor new not rebuilt not China crap eather GPD
Cooling fan
Condenser
Dryer
High pressure line
Water pump
Thermostat
Flushed radiator inside /ou coolant
Expansion tank
Cab filter
What could it be?
I had where my 2010 F150 lost AC cooling, but the high side was going really high, not low and took forever to equalize. I was told it was the orifice valve. I got a new valve. Before I could install it, the compressor clutch started acting up and eventually the pulley seized and broke the belt. I ended up replacing the compressor, orifice valve, drier cartridge, belt, and, idlers. Works great now. I think it's weird that this one would be low if it was restricting while mine was high (300+ PSI)
Nice video and diagnosis
Great video! Thank you.
GREAT explanation (as usual). Why did the adjustment plug for the seat and spring remove so easily? If it's adjusted I would think it would be temporarily locked into position so vibrations wouldn't loosen it and change the desired spring pressure.
you are a genius !
Good information 👍
Taking off one side of txv and then pressurizing each side should give some indication of whereabouts the clog up is right? Very great good practical video. Thanks.
I learned something new today.
I have one where low pressure Is higher then the high side and didn't want to take more fluid but ac compressor clutch stays on but no ac in cab but then I checked if the pressure leved out and 2 days later still not leveling out I'm about to replace the txv seeing this video makes sense out of my situation I'm sure it will fix it thanks for the video
Hey I just wanna thank you for breaking down some of the main points of the AC System and components. I was having some issues deciding if I need to replace my compressor and or TXV valve in my 92 Acura Integra and after watching this video I was able to pinpoint what was going on with the system. I have replaced both components and will be charging the system in the morning after my receiver dryer gets here and I have complete faith the system will operate flawlessly. I did the R12 to R134a retro myself and I've learned a copious amount of info about AC systems and I owe that to you and a few others on UA-cam. Thanks again!
this video is gold thank you sir!👍
My rigmaster Apu on the side of my semi truck is doing the same thing. I believe u just solved my problem. But my compressor stays on. I'm gonna replace that valave and go from there. Thanks
Nice and very informative video! ❤
Great video! I think I may have a bad one.
AC stops working after 65mph. ACC_PRESS in Forscan drops from 250 some psi down to 130psi and no more cold air.
AC works fine before that. Also, it takes about 1hr for pressure to “equalize” between high and low after engine is shut off. (Still stays off be 30-40psi)
Great video
Good job👊
Hello guy i need you to assist me i am restoring AC on ford explorer 2013 model, I need to know the difference between the front and rear expansion valve
Great video.
What is the better system TXV or Orifice tube setup?in your opinion,Great video!
Excellent
Hi there, great video. Can you make a video of how to replace the oil filter housing in a Ford Escape, preferably 2001 to 2003. Thanks.
Awesome video it helps a lot …..thanks a lot
Great video, I love working on A/C. Videos like this I just watch for fun and agree with everything your saying. The Vehicles I work on have a FOT in the front and a TXV in the rear, dual condensers and evaporators. That makes diagnostics very funny. I have the same machine you have with the same oil injector laying in the back 😁
It’s a robinair, those things are awesome.
Sweet bro..
Thanks a millionaire for all your videos dude! You’ve gotten me through a 13 f150 ecoboost, and now a 2009 escape xls 2.5. Until now, I have avoided AC. Thanks to you I just replaced compressor, drier, condenser, vacuum, and recharge! Thanks again
Thanks bro!!!
What an education!!! Not only on how to use the gauges but how to use them to diagnose this issue this issue for what ever type orfice valve/evaporator valve there is on the AC system. Most likely will be able to confirm a problem that I am pretty sure about already. But using a more scientific method would make me feel a lot better before actually doing the repair. Also make me the smartest something lol in the room when someone else runs into it next time. I can direct them to you here.
You're a god dam genius, Brian, where can get you to service my F150, 2009, XLT with a low output of the AC temperature?
I am in Austin Texas. I love your videos and wish you great success and are blessed with infinite wisdom.
Thank you for this. I had a full charge of 134a and still no cooling. the compressor would run for 5 seconds or less and shut off. The low side pressure would drop while it was running and rise slowly when it stopped. No cooling at all. I am going to take it in and have someone replace the TXV and retest. Thanks.
Tnx
This is a great video and great information. My AC warms up when I’m driving but when I’m idle at the stop light it gets cool, what do you think the problem is? I have been told me compressor is bad or my expansion valve needs to be replaced.
Dam good job
Nice !
Yup, just get a new compressor installed but, shitty a/c in my Navigator. I’d bet the TXV’s are defective. Gonna have my mechanic order the part. Thank you!
Thanks for the video, I've got one I'm scratching my head on. I've got 75 lp & 175 hp at 90°. Inside air is really cold then it starts blowing warm air.
I have the same issue on my 2011 corolla. Did you find out what was the problem? I’m thinking my issue is the expansion valve or ac compressor control switch.
Excellent video and explanation. Is it possible a scenario to stack the THX valve and be open all time. How it's possible to diagnose that issue ?
Similar readings on my tractor trailer 2006 freightliner I'm driving... Could to much dye mess it up... Last driver owner put several cans of dye detector and some stop leak.... I bleed off a lot and every time what seemed like an excessive amount of neon yellow oil was blown g out...
The dead giveaway that it's a stuck closed TXV is if the low side drops when you rev the engine but the high side doesn't. That tells you that the TXV is being fed plenty of steady pressure, but the flow is restricted getting through it and not keeping up with the demand from the compressor suction; so the low side will drop and may even go into a vacuum. If both the low side and the high side drop when the engine is revved, that would indicate that the blockage is further upstream, such as receiver/drier or condenser.
2006 mazda 3s 2.3L auto sedan 335 k miles
I have this problem the does car not over heating . Theonly part I have not changed is expansion valve and high and low sensors I charged up with 134a no leak filler shop said I need a new compressor and high line I replaced myself
New parts
Ac compressor new not rebuilt not China crap eather GPD
Cooling fan
Condenser
Dryer
High pressure line
Water pump
Thermostat
Flushed radiator inside /ou coolant
Expansion tank
Cab filter
What could it be?
The Mechanic was who misdiagnosed the problem in the first place was trying to feed his boss business. There is no room for honest mechanics. You are rare.
He explaining something, doing the video, but he don't know why the AC doing this, doing that...ok
Excellent explanation, is it possible the TXV stuck open and stay always open , how can we diagnose that issue ?
I drove a 04 Ford F650 truck the A/C never worked, most of the time it would blow hot like one day it was 107 out and the truck was blowing 90 degrees, if the truck was idling like when we are having lunch most of the time it would not work, you turn the A/C on and off for 15 minutes, or pull up and drive around the block a few times and then the A/C would come on. I worked outside and temp in the summer was 90 to 115 on any given day for 4 months. We had a medical emergency with heatstroke and luckily we had another truck and we used that A/C unit.
Thanks again for another fine and very informative video. Your're awesome. Do you know anything about the REAR ac on an 06 Freestyle Limited? Thanks again.
rear ac systems usually have their own txv that allows coolant through the rear evaporator
Thanks for the videos on this subject. Probably the best one I found so far that describes the conditions of failing txv. I'm in the process of figuring out an f150. With r134 in spec of 24 oz, the high side at 150 and low at 25 the ac produces 45-50 at the vents and will start cycling compressor after a few mins. Normal or is there such thing as a txv beginning to fail? The pressures equalize slowly about 10-15 mins. Thoughts?
system is a bit too low on charge with these pressures.
Check both of your shradder valves for leaks.
Sumply insulating the high pressure line from engine heat with pipe wrap will easily boost your AC efficiency during peak season. $5 wrap from HmDepot
👍🏻
Awesome video just had a car in the shop today pressures with car running were 40 on the low and 200 on the high. Found when giving a little rpm the low would suck down to 20psi high would go up a little. When turning off the pressures took forever to equalize.
Thats TXV case
KNOWLEDGEABLE FordTechMakuloco
Outstanding tutorial 👌 👏 👍
Video great 👍 👌 👏 thank you very much helpful information God bless you FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hello, I love your channel. I watch it all the time for maintenance and repair work. I wonder if you heard about the loud engine fan issues with 2009-2013 f-150’s. I have a 2013 f-150 eco boost and the engine fan keeps running high when I turn on my a/c. When I turn it off the engine fans turn off about 5 mins after. I had a problem before where the fan would run high and found out the radiator was running with low coolant and also had a leak in the turbo but I got that fixed and refilled the coolant reservoir. Now I’m having a high running engine fan issue, but this time the coolant and turbos are fine but the a/c isn’t. The a/c sort of runs cool but on really hot days it would not cool the truck down. Also when I on the a/c for the first time, I would smell a metal like odor coming from the vents then it goes away. Could this be a the temperature expansion valve or anything with the a/c system or would it be something else. I can really afford to fix a/c problems due to budget and disability from my service as a USMC. Any thoughts on how I can fix this?
Did you make figure out your issue? I have the exact same problem
👍 thanks
Excellent video!
My honda air con pump engages correctly and keeps working. It doesn't disengage until I switch it off. but my cabin air is still warm. The r134a level is correct with no leaks. Could the TXV be causing this problem?
Thank you from the UK