Your a busy man and I so appreciate what you do here , helped me at least 4 separate times on my fords 03 focus, 96 cobra, 97ranger and now a 05 expedition EB . If you wouldn’t mind, free advice on the expedition? It’s full of Freon , the previous owner charged it up with some sort of ac pro crap. I diagnosed it to have a leaking high side port , got it to seal ( mostly ) and now it’s only mildly cooling (70 deg maybe) on 100 deg days yesterday I check it and it was 60 low and 300 high on a 105 deg day .txv valve ? Or fan clutch ? Or ?? It’s an aftermarket one ,have no idea who sold it , just know it’s not a Motorcraft I don’t want to throw parts at it till I have a better direction. I’m not afraid of the work. Totally appreciate your response!!!
The more I watch your videos, the more I respect men (and women) that take pride in being a great mechanic. *Honestly, you guys are mechanical surgeons.* I admire how much intelligence it takes to work on vehicles of today.
I know you probably will never see this but thank you from the bottom of my heart bro. My txv would not equalize after watching for 2 hours and I changed it and I get 36 degree vent temps now and its 94 degrees!! It's never blown this cold since I bought it in 2014.
Automotive AC systems are the last great frontier of the unknown for me. I recently purchased a set of manifold gauges a couple days ago and have been crunching on system operational parameters and things were about about 85% clear to me. This video brought me to 100%. Thanks for always producing videos that are sufficiently detailed. One thing that sets you apart is you explain the WHY, and not just the HOW.
Damn me and you are pretty much the same, I have a great understanding and experience of the mechanicals of a vehicle. But how exactly A/C's operate component by component, and being able to diagnose why a system is doing what it's doing always went over my ability. But now having issues with my personal vehicle has forced me to dive deep into HVAC. I have a 2015 Lexus GS350 and with the A/C on I was getting 55psi on the low and 135psi on the hi with 97°F ambient. Then when I turn the vehicle off, the pressure would just sit there. Also, adding or removing refrigerant would do nothing even after it settles for awhile. I'm glad I bought these gauges and we have the best University of all time, UA-cam!!. The parts should be arriving today so hopefully in the next few days I'll have 32°f air like this one did. Hope you fixed your problem you were having 👍🏻.
I had the same issue with my Toyota Tundra and topped off my coolant and added a lubricant into the system. Amazingly it cured the txv valve and is working perfectly!!!!! With 190,000 miles and heavy usage living in Texas I'm not sure for how long it will go, so I have purchased a knew TXV, and compressor just in case. But it does work really well now : -)
Why would anyone down vote this video? I've never even heard of TXV, so I learned something. A/C is a bitch, so learning something new about it is always good, glad I subscribed to this guy a few weeks ago. Had to, bought a 2004 Explorer with the hated 5r55s transmission. I did fix the A/C and wife is happy. This is an awesome channel period.
This is one of the best videos explaining how the system works. I took a screenshot of the diagram and wrote in what each part does and the direction of freon flow.
First off, love the channel, and your easy to understand repairs and methods. THANK YOU AND KEEP THEM COMING. My 2002 Merc Benz S430 (W220) A/C stopped working after I replaced the windshield wiper hose (with the heater wire/ cable inside). The unit small red light is on indicating the system works, but will not blow cold air. The clutch does engage, on then off, constantly. The typical reset feature/ trick doesn't work for whatever this error is currently. I checked the relays/ switched and replaced them as well. Assuming the system may have been low on refrigerant, I filled it with what it took in, which appeared to be almost two full "tall" cans of AC Pro. Reset the system and the air came on "absolutely freezing cold" for about two minutes then shut off again. After resetting and attempting to make it stay on, it wouldn't reset anymore after four attempts. I noticed a clear liquid had leaked from the bottom center of the car down the driveway to the rear of the car, no smell or color, but thicker than water. The next day, with the engine running and the air refilled and reset once more, I heard a loud hissing and bursting flow of air or spray from under the hood, front drivers side for about 40 seconds then stopped. I believe it was a pressure relief vale of some sort !!! Scared the &%$#@^& %$#%^&%#@ out of me to be exact. The clutch still engages, on then off, constantly. Whats wrong with the cars AC ????? What would you recommend I check or replace???? No AC for the past four months now...
Excellent video, so far this is the only one I've found that shows clear differences between comp and TXV failures. Hell, some if not a lot of shops just change both parts along with the condenser to get a better chance of a successful fix.
Got into an accident 5 years ago and the AC in my 2005 expedition hasn't worked since. Whistling sound coming from under the dash, no compressor function and will not retain freon. The collision center said it was always broke and they weren't going to fall for it. So here I am trying to fix it myself. 210,650 miles. And I love it like its new. No AC and all she's still my big baby
You are a genius. The technicians I have been too have no idea about the valves and what the pressure should be etc. You are like an engineer. I am going to attempt to change the expansion valve myself to save some cash as this ac story is starting to cost alot as different people have been working on mine and I need to pay each time.
Fantastic video Brian! Thanks for taking the time to talk about the system operation and for dissecting the valve. Super informative. Looking forward to the news. Thanks!
The Mechanic was who misdiagnosed the problem in the first place was trying to feed his boss business. There is no room for honest mechanics. You are rare.
A great detailed investigation into the workings of a dodgy a/c system. Expensive misdiagnosis by previous tech and the necessity to find a tech that excels in his field.
Thanks a millionaire for all your videos dude! You’ve gotten me through a 13 f150 ecoboost, and now a 2009 escape xls 2.5. Until now, I have avoided AC. Thanks to you I just replaced compressor, drier, condenser, vacuum, and recharge! Thanks again
Great videos! One tip that would be helpful to those who are new to the workings of the A/C system, and to using Manifold Gauges is, you could include the position of the Manifold Gauge valves for each of the tests that you do. During one test you may only need one valve open, but during another test you may need all of them open, or a combination of open and closed valves. This would have been helpful to me when I first started. Thanks, and keep the great videos coming!
You dont need to open the valves on the manifold unless you are adding freon or recovering the system. Each nob opens each side to the yellow center hose. You use the blue nob to open the yellow to the system ONLY when you have it attached to a can of freon. Never open the red when you have a bottle or can hooked to the yellow hose or you could introduce high pressure to a can that cannot take 250 psi or whatever your high side is running. You'll open both when you're recovering the system or pulling a vacuum. It's really simple. 👍 Lol and I just noticed this comment is 5 years old lol you probably are a pro by now lol
Wow! I can’t believe that was 5 years ago! It doesn’t feel like it.😂 Thanks for your input! I don’t work on AC systems all that often, so I usually have to revisit the procedure to make sure that I’m doing it correctly.
Hey I just wanna thank you for breaking down some of the main points of the AC System and components. I was having some issues deciding if I need to replace my compressor and or TXV valve in my 92 Acura Integra and after watching this video I was able to pinpoint what was going on with the system. I have replaced both components and will be charging the system in the morning after my receiver dryer gets here and I have complete faith the system will operate flawlessly. I did the R12 to R134a retro myself and I've learned a copious amount of info about AC systems and I owe that to you and a few others on UA-cam. Thanks again!
Great video. Working on my 05 Aviator. I assumed there was a blockage or front txv went down. You have given me confirmation. I had the same problem but pressure would equalize soon as i turned the engine off. Flushed out the system and cold ac again. Thx
I had where my 2010 F150 lost AC cooling, but the high side was going really high, not low and took forever to equalize. I was told it was the orifice valve. I got a new valve. Before I could install it, the compressor clutch started acting up and eventually the pulley seized and broke the belt. I ended up replacing the compressor, orifice valve, drier cartridge, belt, and, idlers. Works great now. I think it's weird that this one would be low if it was restricting while mine was high (300+ PSI)
Thanks for the video, I've got one I'm scratching my head on. I've got 75 lp & 175 hp at 90°. Inside air is really cold then it starts blowing warm air.
I have the same issue on my 2011 corolla. Did you find out what was the problem? I’m thinking my issue is the expansion valve or ac compressor control switch.
Great video. I've been trying to explain this to the brain dead with little success. Made them watch this video a few times and now they seem to be coming around. Thanks for making my job easier. SUBSCRIBED! THANKS!
The dead giveaway that it's a stuck closed TXV is if the low side drops when you rev the engine but the high side doesn't. That tells you that the TXV is being fed plenty of steady pressure, but the flow is restricted getting through it and not keeping up with the demand from the compressor suction; so the low side will drop and may even go into a vacuum. If both the low side and the high side drop when the engine is revved, that would indicate that the blockage is further upstream, such as receiver/drier or condenser.
2006 mazda 3s 2.3L auto sedan 335 k miles I have this problem the does car not over heating . Theonly part I have not changed is expansion valve and high and low sensors I charged up with 134a no leak filler shop said I need a new compressor and high line I replaced myself New parts Ac compressor new not rebuilt not China crap eather GPD Cooling fan Condenser Dryer High pressure line Water pump Thermostat Flushed radiator inside /ou coolant Expansion tank Cab filter What could it be?
Great video! I think I may have a bad one. AC stops working after 65mph. ACC_PRESS in Forscan drops from 250 some psi down to 130psi and no more cold air. AC works fine before that. Also, it takes about 1hr for pressure to “equalize” between high and low after engine is shut off. (Still stays off be 30-40psi)
Good points, what if one of the valves is ok and the other is bad (front A/C)? So, the pressure would equalize because one of the shared valves would allow that. I just experienced this and im calling that front expansion valve bad since i can get very cold temps on the rear so, the compressor is doing its job from that fact. Hard to call it because the evaporator core could also be restricted but hopefully thats no the case. Let me know what you guys think in front and rear ac system. The temp blend actuators move to the correct location so thats ok.
My 03 Aviator has that same problem... warm air from the console, but cold from the rear ... I thought it was a touch low.. my gauges did exactly as you showed...Now I know what to do...Thanks
Taking off one side of txv and then pressurizing each side should give some indication of whereabouts the clog up is right? Very great good practical video. Thanks.
Awesome video just had a car in the shop today pressures with car running were 40 on the low and 200 on the high. Found when giving a little rpm the low would suck down to 20psi high would go up a little. When turning off the pressures took forever to equalize.
You're a god dam genius, Brian, where can get you to service my F150, 2009, XLT with a low output of the AC temperature? I am in Austin Texas. I love your videos and wish you great success and are blessed with infinite wisdom.
awesome video! super helpful and informative! helped me diagnose that my compressor is bad. my pressures equalized and my gauges show that I have a low, high side at 88 and high, low side at 60.
Did you have trash in the system when you replaced the pump? I'm now learning that if there is no trash, it could have just been a bad compressor control valve and the actual compressor is still good.
Yup, just get a new compressor installed but, shitty a/c in my Navigator. I’d bet the TXV’s are defective. Gonna have my mechanic order the part. Thank you!
Great video, I love working on A/C. Videos like this I just watch for fun and agree with everything your saying. The Vehicles I work on have a FOT in the front and a TXV in the rear, dual condensers and evaporators. That makes diagnostics very funny. I have the same machine you have with the same oil injector laying in the back 😁
I have one where low pressure Is higher then the high side and didn't want to take more fluid but ac compressor clutch stays on but no ac in cab but then I checked if the pressure leved out and 2 days later still not leveling out I'm about to replace the txv seeing this video makes sense out of my situation I'm sure it will fix it thanks for the video
FordTechMakuloco has saved me some serious money in the past. This video is great as well. I am hoping someone here will be able to help. After watching this video I suspect I have a bad expansion valve but need confirmation. 2012 Ford F-150, 5.0L Ambient Temp is 71deg. System pressure before starting engine was 110 psi high and low. After running for 10 minutes High pressure was 215 and low pressure was 7 psi. Vent temp initially dropped to 65 deg but then went back up to 70. Shut system off to monitor the rate of equalization. At 10 minutes HP was 210 and LP was 56. At 20 minutes HP was 180 and LP was 81. At 35 minutes HP was 165 and LP was 115. I would also say that the compressor is much louder than it was before. Very noticeable. It also does not cycle off. Runs constantly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@teravolt6113 Thanks for the reply. Someone told me it was low on refrigerant so I added a whole can to bring the suction pressure up to 35 psi. The system now cools well but I still hear some noise from the compressor albeit not as oud as before. I may have to evacuate the system and replace the expansion valve and compressor. Some people also recommend replacing the accumulator while I am at it. That will probably cost several hundred dollars. Not looking forward to that at all.
@@teravolt6113 Thanks. Since I suspected that I was low on refrigerant I checked what lines and connections that I could see and did not notice any leaks. It's a little hard to tell with the normal grime that accumulates so I think I will clean the area to be able to have a better indication of the presence of any leaks. I realize that I can't see the evaporator without tearing things apart but since I do not smell the PAG oil I will assume the leak is not at the evaporator.
taking way too long to equalize means txv is bad....you need to learn how to vacuum and recharge properly...watch chrisfix's video on how to properly vacuum and recharge
I drove a 04 Ford F650 truck the A/C never worked, most of the time it would blow hot like one day it was 107 out and the truck was blowing 90 degrees, if the truck was idling like when we are having lunch most of the time it would not work, you turn the A/C on and off for 15 minutes, or pull up and drive around the block a few times and then the A/C would come on. I worked outside and temp in the summer was 90 to 115 on any given day for 4 months. We had a medical emergency with heatstroke and luckily we had another truck and we used that A/C unit.
Hello, Ford Make you Loco. Happy Easter Saturday 2024. I am working on a 2012 Nissan Frontier. My buddy, and owner of the Frontier said his AC was working fine and then one day he noticed that the vent air began getting warm.....and then warmer and then, nothing but hot air. Ok. I got a 12 oz can of freon and hooked it up to the hose on the low side. The hose had a a gauge. The freon hose that I was using to install freon is of the garden variety hoses. It is not one of them that has two gauges and three hoses. I hooked up the hose to the low pressure and the needed buried as if the system was packed to the rafters with freon. I asked my buddy if he added any freon. He said no. I scratched my head and wondered why the needle would bury itself when in fact the compressor is not kicking in? So I did the next troubleshooting thing that came to mind. I released some gas with the vehicle off. Still the AC did nothing and the compressor did not want to start. I released some more gas from the ac low side line and gave it another go. Still nothing. I hooked up the recharging hose and noticed that the needle was no longer buried. It was in the somewhat low side. I told my buddy to start the truck. I began tapping the expansion valve and the other sensor that is on the condenser side. Still nothing. With the truck on I got under the truck and gently banged on the compressor with a hammer. The compressor kicked in for some seconds and shut off. I got out from under the vehicle and added the 12 oz can of freon. This seemed to have done the trick. The AC was working. However, I told my buddy that I feel the expansion valve is no good and this problem may surface again. I left his home and told him to get back to me. Sure enough. About an hour later he told me the AC went South again. Well, I am not an AC tech. I am a superficial troubleshoot type of individual who has strengths in other areas, but AC is not one of them. And when I need some pro advice, I come to Ford Make you Loco. Thank you.
This is how you learn by taking parts apart, dissect and study them. There's two types of mechanics, one who changes parts, and one who changes parts plus knows how shit works. Nearly anyone can be the first one, not everyone can be the latter. Any true mechanic will take the time and tear parts apart see how they work.
Astonishing this video popped up in my reccomends....was just leaving out the door to get compressor (High-Low/Low-High)...might get lucky if it's expansion valve....cheap part & i was getting a decc. filter anyway too...my compressor cycling even sounded identical.
Thank you for this. I had a full charge of 134a and still no cooling. the compressor would run for 5 seconds or less and shut off. The low side pressure would drop while it was running and rise slowly when it stopped. No cooling at all. I am going to take it in and have someone replace the TXV and retest. Thanks.
What an education!!! Not only on how to use the gauges but how to use them to diagnose this issue this issue for what ever type orfice valve/evaporator valve there is on the AC system. Most likely will be able to confirm a problem that I am pretty sure about already. But using a more scientific method would make me feel a lot better before actually doing the repair. Also make me the smartest something lol in the room when someone else runs into it next time. I can direct them to you here.
KNOWLEDGEABLE FordTechMakuloco Outstanding tutorial 👌 👏 👍 Video great 👍 👌 👏 thank you very much helpful information God bless you FordTechMakuloco From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
If the pressure fails to equalize when engine is off, this means the valve is stuck in closed state OR there is a blockage somewhere along the refrigerant circuit. If the valve was stuck closed however you’d expect the high pressure to be to high and the low to be too low. However your gauges showed the high pressure was ~ 100 (which is actually low reading). The fact that the low pressure was okay is a proof the compressor is not the culprit. If the compressor is working as intended but the high pressure is still low then there must be an obstruction between the compressor and the high pressure port-> most probably the condenser was the problem as it commonly gets packed with metal shavings from the old defective compressor!!
Hey man just want to thank you for all the help that you have given me I have a 2000 Ford F-150 4 x 4 I have replaced timing chains timing chain gears oil pump and so on due to your UA-cam videos thank you couldn't have got through it without you sorry for the length of the chat but I have a shutter in my rear end coming out of 5th gear on bypass can't quite figure out what that might be transmission or rear end any idea
GREAT explanation (as usual). Why did the adjustment plug for the seat and spring remove so easily? If it's adjusted I would think it would be temporarily locked into position so vibrations wouldn't loosen it and change the desired spring pressure.
The sencing bulb lost its charge and is not putting any pressure on your needle. Thats why it has no resistance onto the spring or in this case your finger.
I have a 2008 Taurus X the low side is 55 psi and the high side is 270psi at 80 degrees. the cabin air is cool around 55-60. I put on new txv and dryer already. What could be the issue.
That's interesting, I have a 94 eagle summit that has a possible similar situation, yet the AC does get cold. It does equalize out on static pressure but it takes awhile, longer than you stated. The problem is the clutch kicks on and off way too much. Running pressures appear to be fine, low pressure does drop too much, down to about 20 then the pump kicks off, but that pump constantly kicking on and off is annoying. It doesn't have a leak, I've added some refrigerant but ended up taking some back out cause the pump started chattering. Take some back out and receivers sight glass has bubbles flowing acrossed it. Charge it up a bit and the bubbles disappear. No matter what I do the clutch always kicking off and on constantly about every two minutes or less.
Shouldn't the txv flow on the high side when at ambient and above temps are detected on the exit of the evap....which would allow more refrigerant to the evap. Can check a txv by making sure the high side flows good when not installed.
My rigmaster Apu on the side of my semi truck is doing the same thing. I believe u just solved my problem. But my compressor stays on. I'm gonna replace that valave and go from there. Thanks
Sir I have a 2009 mustang v6 it’s cold when you moving but sitting still it doesn’t cool as good? Would you recommend I change mine? TXV Valve? Thank you!! 👍💯
This is a great video and great information. My AC warms up when I’m driving but when I’m idle at the stop light it gets cool, what do you think the problem is? I have been told me compressor is bad or my expansion valve needs to be replaced.
I'm having a problem with a conversion kit for my 1972 mercury cougar. The high side is going up a little high and low side is dropping way down to 10 psi and not cutting off.I think it is the txv valve. Everything is new except the evaporator. I did remove it and cleaned fins and flushed inside with proper cleaning flush. Everything seems fine there. Do you think it is the txv? Thanks for any advice
@@FordTechMakuloco I have a Ford f150 2010 king ranch drivers side behind center panel the actuator there is a arm mine is attached to actuator but hanging down not attacked to anything can you help me
@@FordTechMakuloco 2006 mazda 3s 2.3L auto sedan 335 k miles I have this problem the does car not over heating . Theonly part I have not changed is expansion valve and high and low sensors I charged up with 134a no leak filler shop said I need a new compressor and high line I replaced myself New parts Ac compressor new not rebuilt not China crap eather GPD Cooling fan Condenser Dryer High pressure line Water pump Thermostat Flushed radiator inside /ou coolant Expansion tank Cab filter What could it be?
Would it be a similar problem for a 2008 ford taurus x?. When it idles theres nothing but heat but when its in motion is cold again. Thank you for all your videos I have learned alot all thanks to you.
clean or remove cabin air filter to blow more air inside. Insulate the entire high pressure line with $5 pipe wrap, specially near firewall where engine heat is the highest. System efficiency is the key to removing more heat. 👍🏻
My 99 Durango has that type of valve. I suspect it is bad also. It cycles the pump for a few seconds and you can hear the refrigerant inside the vehicle but it doesn't cool.
I’m completely confused with my a/c system at the moment and would like to have your opinion about this matter. My A/C system was acting sporadically going between cold, warm, cool to cold cool and eventually just cool or warm. No leaks in the system, right amount of Freon, fan and compressor kicks on. But the problem I’m having is pressure. While compressor is running, The high side pressure is at about 150 but the low side is way to high at well over 120psi or more. I’m thinking compressor?? Not pumping or sucking enough through the system. Or could it be an expansion valve ? But if it were stuck open, wouldn’t I have some cold air for a bit until it stays to frost... and if it were stuck closed, the shouldn’t I have low, low side pressure? Any help please from anyone. Thank you.
Excellent video, you are so kool for letting us all know this info, that can save big dollars, thank you so much and hope you get rich, or already are.
Really nice video. My car is a 2009 toyota corolla my low side sits on 20 to 30psi while my high side sits on 150 to 200psi the the system was charged the low side hoses get really cold but the system cycles too often and inside doesn't get as cold as it should. The technician suggested changing the expansion valve. Pls what are your thoughts
Great video. Sir I have a 2011 Ford mustang and the AC has started getting warm and then it goes back cold and It will stay cold for a while and then it will get warm? Will this valve make it go back-and-forth like that?
Similar readings on my tractor trailer 2006 freightliner I'm driving... Could to much dye mess it up... Last driver owner put several cans of dye detector and some stop leak.... I bleed off a lot and every time what seemed like an excessive amount of neon yellow oil was blown g out...
I got a 1992 ford econoline e 150 and the air conditioning compressor sweat also can't find where the orifice goes I would appreciated if you know how to fix it
That is a really good drawing but a legend would make it more useful plus it would be more intuitive if the low side line was drawn more to scale (larger).
Will a bad TXB cause a car to feel like it's going to darn near die when it's "switching"? 2010 Equinox blows a little cold air but mostly hot. I haven't gotten the gauges on it yet but it's hot as hell this week. Thanks for the great info
Diagnosing a 2001 VW Jetta 2.0L with my students. Came to us with new compressor already installed. System was low on charge. After charging it to spec compressor clutch engages but only 60°F vent temps, Low Side: 65psi, High side: 75psi. Anyway to differentiate between stuck open TXV and bad compressor? Figuring our next move is to remove TXV for inspection. Thanks in advance for any insight in.
A good set of A/C Manifold Gauges are invaluable when diagnosing A/C concerns-
amzn.to/2g8Bkae
Would the same apply to gm ?
Garth Clark m
Great video... my question is can an expansion valve be replaced with a orifice tube?
FordTechMakuloco what size charging hose is on your master cool gauges , is it 1/2acme x 1/2 acme for the yellow charging hose
Your a busy man and I so appreciate what you do here , helped me at least 4 separate times on my fords 03 focus, 96 cobra, 97ranger and now a 05 expedition EB .
If you wouldn’t mind, free advice on the expedition?
It’s full of Freon , the previous owner charged it up with some sort of ac pro crap. I diagnosed it to have a leaking high side port , got it to seal ( mostly ) and now it’s only mildly cooling (70 deg maybe) on 100 deg days yesterday I check it and it was 60 low and 300 high on a 105 deg day .txv valve ? Or fan clutch ? Or ?? It’s an aftermarket one ,have no idea who sold it , just know it’s not a Motorcraft I don’t want to throw parts at it till I have a better direction. I’m not afraid of the work. Totally appreciate your response!!!
The more I watch your videos, the more I respect men (and women) that take pride in being a great mechanic. *Honestly, you guys are mechanical surgeons.* I admire how much intelligence it takes to work on vehicles of today.
Mechanics are just like surgeons .Only we wash our hands after the operation and before we go to the bathroom
Agreed
I know you probably will never see this but thank you from the bottom of my heart bro. My txv would not equalize after watching for 2 hours and I changed it and I get 36 degree vent temps now and its 94 degrees!! It's never blown this cold since I bought it in 2014.
Automotive AC systems are the last great frontier of the unknown for me. I recently purchased a set of manifold gauges a couple days ago and have been crunching on system operational parameters and things were about about 85% clear to me. This video brought me to 100%.
Thanks for always producing videos that are sufficiently detailed. One thing that sets you apart is you explain the WHY, and not just the HOW.
Damn me and you are pretty much the same, I have a great understanding and experience of the mechanicals of a vehicle. But how exactly A/C's operate component by component, and being able to diagnose why a system is doing what it's doing always went over my ability. But now having issues with my personal vehicle has forced me to dive deep into HVAC. I have a 2015 Lexus GS350 and with the A/C on I was getting 55psi on the low and 135psi on the hi with 97°F ambient. Then when I turn the vehicle off, the pressure would just sit there. Also, adding or removing refrigerant would do nothing even after it settles for awhile. I'm glad I bought these gauges and we have the best University of all time, UA-cam!!. The parts should be arriving today so hopefully in the next few days I'll have 32°f air like this one did. Hope you fixed your problem you were having 👍🏻.
I had the same issue with my Toyota Tundra and topped off my coolant and added a lubricant into the system. Amazingly it cured the txv valve and is working perfectly!!!!! With 190,000 miles and heavy usage living in Texas I'm not sure for how long it will go, so I have purchased a knew TXV, and compressor just in case. But it does work really well now : -)
Why would anyone down vote this video? I've never even heard of TXV, so I learned something. A/C is a bitch, so learning something new about it is always good, glad I subscribed to this guy a few weeks ago. Had to, bought a 2004 Explorer with the hated 5r55s transmission. I did fix the A/C and wife is happy. This is an awesome channel period.
So true. Happy wife equals happy life! Great video.
This is one of the best videos explaining how the system works. I took a screenshot of the diagram and wrote in what each part does and the direction of freon flow.
First off, love the channel, and your easy to understand repairs and methods. THANK YOU AND KEEP THEM COMING. My 2002 Merc Benz S430 (W220) A/C stopped working after I replaced the windshield wiper hose (with the heater wire/ cable inside). The unit small red light is on indicating the system works, but will not blow cold air. The clutch does engage, on then off, constantly. The typical reset feature/ trick doesn't work for whatever this error is currently. I checked the relays/ switched and replaced them as well. Assuming the system may have been low on refrigerant, I filled it with what it took in, which appeared to be almost two full "tall" cans of AC Pro. Reset the system and the air came on "absolutely freezing cold" for about two minutes then shut off again. After resetting and attempting to make it stay on, it wouldn't reset anymore after four attempts. I noticed a clear liquid had leaked from the bottom center of the car down the driveway to the rear of the car, no smell or color, but thicker than water.
The next day, with the engine running and the air refilled and reset once more, I heard a loud hissing and bursting flow of air or spray from under the hood, front drivers side for about 40 seconds then stopped. I believe it was a pressure relief vale of some sort !!! Scared the &%$#@^& %$#%^&%#@ out of me to be exact. The clutch still engages, on then off, constantly. Whats wrong with the cars AC ????? What would you recommend I check or replace???? No AC for the past four months now...
Hole in the condenser...?
restriction in the system which led to you over charging(?)
Excellent video, so far this is the only one I've found that shows clear differences between comp and TXV failures.
Hell, some if not a lot of shops just change both parts along with the condenser to get a better chance of a successful fix.
So true
Mr. excellent video you're a hell of a technician you should be teaching, thank you so much you just save me a bunch of money👏👍
Got into an accident 5 years ago and the AC in my 2005 expedition hasn't worked since. Whistling sound coming from under the dash, no compressor function and will not retain freon. The collision center said it was always broke and they weren't going to fall for it. So here I am trying to fix it myself. 210,650 miles. And I love it like its new. No AC and all she's still my big baby
You are a genius. The technicians I have been too have no idea about the valves and what the pressure should be etc. You are like an engineer. I am going to attempt to change the expansion valve myself to save some cash as this ac story is starting to cost alot as different people have been working on mine and I need to pay each time.
I do HVAC For a living and always working on our vehicles. Pretty cool learning about theses auto TXV's.
Brian your the real deal very first to ever mention superheat most don’t what it is or the reason for it
how to calculate and adjust it on cars? System capacity is so small compared to a building AC
Fantastic video Brian! Thanks for taking the time to talk about the system operation and for dissecting the valve. Super informative. Looking forward to the news. Thanks!
The Mechanic was who misdiagnosed the problem in the first place was trying to feed his boss business. There is no room for honest mechanics. You are rare.
He explaining something, doing the video, but he don't know why the AC doing this, doing that...ok
A great detailed investigation into the workings of a dodgy a/c system. Expensive misdiagnosis by previous tech and the necessity to find a tech that excels in his field.
Thanks a millionaire for all your videos dude! You’ve gotten me through a 13 f150 ecoboost, and now a 2009 escape xls 2.5. Until now, I have avoided AC. Thanks to you I just replaced compressor, drier, condenser, vacuum, and recharge! Thanks again
Thanks I realized now when I changed compressor and drier and TX valve thanks again
Great videos! One tip that would be helpful to those who are new to the workings of the A/C system, and to using Manifold Gauges is, you could include the position of the Manifold Gauge valves for each of the tests that you do. During one test you may only need one valve open, but during another test you may need all of them open, or a combination of open and closed valves. This would have been helpful to me when I first started. Thanks, and keep the great videos coming!
You dont need to open the valves on the manifold unless you are adding freon or recovering the system. Each nob opens each side to the yellow center hose. You use the blue nob to open the yellow to the system ONLY when you have it attached to a can of freon. Never open the red when you have a bottle or can hooked to the yellow hose or you could introduce high pressure to a can that cannot take 250 psi or whatever your high side is running. You'll open both when you're recovering the system or pulling a vacuum. It's really simple. 👍
Lol and I just noticed this comment is 5 years old lol you probably are a pro by now lol
Wow! I can’t believe that was 5 years ago! It doesn’t feel like it.😂
Thanks for your input! I don’t work on AC systems all that often, so I usually have to revisit the procedure to make sure that I’m doing it correctly.
Hey I just wanna thank you for breaking down some of the main points of the AC System and components. I was having some issues deciding if I need to replace my compressor and or TXV valve in my 92 Acura Integra and after watching this video I was able to pinpoint what was going on with the system. I have replaced both components and will be charging the system in the morning after my receiver dryer gets here and I have complete faith the system will operate flawlessly. I did the R12 to R134a retro myself and I've learned a copious amount of info about AC systems and I owe that to you and a few others on UA-cam. Thanks again!
Thank you for your explanation of a TXV.
Great video. Working on my 05 Aviator. I assumed there was a blockage or front txv went down. You have given me confirmation. I had the same problem but pressure would equalize soon as i turned the engine off. Flushed out the system and cold ac again. Thx
How do you flush out the system?
I think my. TXV’s are going bad in my big truck. Lines leading to sleeper ac freeze up sometimes and front ac does not cool. Great videos. Thank you.
I had where my 2010 F150 lost AC cooling, but the high side was going really high, not low and took forever to equalize. I was told it was the orifice valve. I got a new valve. Before I could install it, the compressor clutch started acting up and eventually the pulley seized and broke the belt. I ended up replacing the compressor, orifice valve, drier cartridge, belt, and, idlers. Works great now. I think it's weird that this one would be low if it was restricting while mine was high (300+ PSI)
Very informative. I’ll certainly take the teachings here. Gathering a lot of information which will help me troubleshoot my Car A/C soon.
Thanks for the video, I've got one I'm scratching my head on. I've got 75 lp & 175 hp at 90°. Inside air is really cold then it starts blowing warm air.
I have the same issue on my 2011 corolla. Did you find out what was the problem? I’m thinking my issue is the expansion valve or ac compressor control switch.
Great video. I've been trying to explain this to the brain dead with little success. Made them watch this video a few times and now they seem to be coming around. Thanks for making my job easier. SUBSCRIBED! THANKS!
The dead giveaway that it's a stuck closed TXV is if the low side drops when you rev the engine but the high side doesn't. That tells you that the TXV is being fed plenty of steady pressure, but the flow is restricted getting through it and not keeping up with the demand from the compressor suction; so the low side will drop and may even go into a vacuum. If both the low side and the high side drop when the engine is revved, that would indicate that the blockage is further upstream, such as receiver/drier or condenser.
2006 mazda 3s 2.3L auto sedan 335 k miles
I have this problem the does car not over heating . Theonly part I have not changed is expansion valve and high and low sensors I charged up with 134a no leak filler shop said I need a new compressor and high line I replaced myself
New parts
Ac compressor new not rebuilt not China crap eather GPD
Cooling fan
Condenser
Dryer
High pressure line
Water pump
Thermostat
Flushed radiator inside /ou coolant
Expansion tank
Cab filter
What could it be?
Great video! I think I may have a bad one.
AC stops working after 65mph. ACC_PRESS in Forscan drops from 250 some psi down to 130psi and no more cold air.
AC works fine before that. Also, it takes about 1hr for pressure to “equalize” between high and low after engine is shut off. (Still stays off be 30-40psi)
Good points, what if one of the valves is ok and the other is bad (front A/C)? So, the pressure would equalize because one of the shared valves would allow that. I just experienced this and im calling that front expansion valve bad since i can get very cold temps on the rear so, the compressor is doing its job from that fact. Hard to call it because the evaporator core could also be restricted but hopefully thats no the case. Let me know what you guys think in front and rear ac system. The temp blend actuators move to the correct location so thats ok.
My 03 Aviator has that same problem... warm air from the console, but cold from the rear ... I thought it was a touch low.. my gauges did exactly as you showed...Now I know what to do...Thanks
Michael Owen did you ever fix it?
Good video. I leave blower motor on to make pressure rise faster when compressor is off.
this is also the best way to dry moisture out of the cabin expender so smelly mildew does not grow on it 👍🏻
Taking off one side of txv and then pressurizing each side should give some indication of whereabouts the clog up is right? Very great good practical video. Thanks.
Awesome video just had a car in the shop today pressures with car running were 40 on the low and 200 on the high. Found when giving a little rpm the low would suck down to 20psi high would go up a little. When turning off the pressures took forever to equalize.
Thats TXV case
You're a god dam genius, Brian, where can get you to service my F150, 2009, XLT with a low output of the AC temperature?
I am in Austin Texas. I love your videos and wish you great success and are blessed with infinite wisdom.
awesome video! super helpful and informative! helped me diagnose that my compressor is bad. my pressures equalized and my gauges show that I have a low, high side at 88 and high, low side at 60.
Did you have trash in the system when you replaced the pump? I'm now learning that if there is no trash, it could have just been a bad compressor control valve and the actual compressor is still good.
Yup, just get a new compressor installed but, shitty a/c in my Navigator. I’d bet the TXV’s are defective. Gonna have my mechanic order the part. Thank you!
Great video, I love working on A/C. Videos like this I just watch for fun and agree with everything your saying. The Vehicles I work on have a FOT in the front and a TXV in the rear, dual condensers and evaporators. That makes diagnostics very funny. I have the same machine you have with the same oil injector laying in the back 😁
It’s a robinair, those things are awesome.
Great video. I find ac fix videos the best. I appreciate you taking the time.
Great video , thanks so much. Especially liked how you explained the Mechanical Operation of the TXV valve. Awesome.
I have one where low pressure Is higher then the high side and didn't want to take more fluid but ac compressor clutch stays on but no ac in cab but then I checked if the pressure leved out and 2 days later still not leveling out I'm about to replace the txv seeing this video makes sense out of my situation I'm sure it will fix it thanks for the video
FordTechMakuloco
has saved me some serious money in the past. This video is great as well. I am hoping someone here will be able to help. After watching this video I suspect I have a bad expansion valve but need confirmation. 2012 Ford F-150, 5.0L Ambient Temp is 71deg. System pressure before starting engine was 110 psi high and low. After running for 10 minutes High pressure was 215 and low pressure was 7 psi. Vent temp initially dropped to 65 deg but then went back up to 70. Shut system off to monitor the rate of equalization. At 10 minutes HP was 210 and LP was 56. At 20 minutes HP was 180 and LP was 81. At 35 minutes HP was 165 and LP was 115. I would also say that the compressor is much louder than it was before. Very noticeable. It also does not cycle off. Runs constantly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@teravolt6113 Thanks for the reply. Someone told me it was low on refrigerant so I added a whole can to bring the suction pressure up to 35 psi. The system now cools well but I still hear some noise from the compressor albeit not as oud as before. I may have to evacuate the system and replace the expansion valve and compressor. Some people also recommend replacing the accumulator while I am at it. That will probably cost several hundred dollars. Not looking forward to that at all.
@@teravolt6113 No, did not notice any unusual odors coming from the vents. If there were what would those odors suggest?
@@teravolt6113 Thanks. Since I suspected that I was low on refrigerant I checked what lines and connections that I could see and did not notice any leaks. It's a little hard to tell with the normal grime that accumulates so I think I will clean the area to be able to have a better indication of the presence of any leaks. I realize that I can't see the evaporator without tearing things apart but since I do not smell the PAG oil I will assume the leak is not at the evaporator.
taking way too long to equalize means txv is bad....you need to learn how to vacuum and recharge properly...watch chrisfix's video on how to properly vacuum and recharge
I drove a 04 Ford F650 truck the A/C never worked, most of the time it would blow hot like one day it was 107 out and the truck was blowing 90 degrees, if the truck was idling like when we are having lunch most of the time it would not work, you turn the A/C on and off for 15 minutes, or pull up and drive around the block a few times and then the A/C would come on. I worked outside and temp in the summer was 90 to 115 on any given day for 4 months. We had a medical emergency with heatstroke and luckily we had another truck and we used that A/C unit.
Hello, Ford Make you Loco. Happy Easter Saturday 2024. I am working on a 2012 Nissan Frontier. My buddy, and owner of the Frontier said his AC was working fine and then one day he noticed that the vent air began getting warm.....and then warmer and then, nothing but hot air. Ok. I got a 12 oz can of freon and hooked it up to the hose on the low side. The hose had a a gauge. The freon hose that I was using to install freon is of the garden variety hoses. It is not one of them that has two gauges and three hoses. I hooked up the hose to the low pressure and the needed buried as if the system was packed to the rafters with freon. I asked my buddy if he added any freon. He said no. I scratched my head and wondered why the needle would bury itself when in fact the compressor is not kicking in? So I did the next troubleshooting thing that came to mind. I released some gas with the vehicle off. Still the AC did nothing and the compressor did not want to start. I released some more gas from the ac low side line and gave it another go. Still nothing. I hooked up the recharging hose and noticed that the needle was no longer buried. It was in the somewhat low side. I told my buddy to start the truck. I began tapping the expansion valve and the other sensor that is on the condenser side. Still nothing. With the truck on I got under the truck and gently banged on the compressor with a hammer. The compressor kicked in for some seconds and shut off. I got out from under the vehicle and added the 12 oz can of freon. This seemed to have done the trick. The AC was working. However, I told my buddy that I feel the expansion valve is no good and this problem may surface again. I left his home and told him to get back to me. Sure enough. About an hour later he told me the AC went South again. Well, I am not an AC tech. I am a superficial troubleshoot type of individual who has strengths in other areas, but AC is not one of them. And when I need some pro advice, I come to Ford Make you Loco. Thank you.
This is how you learn by taking parts apart, dissect and study them. There's two types of mechanics, one who changes parts, and one who changes parts plus knows how shit works. Nearly anyone can be the first one, not everyone can be the latter. Any true mechanic will take the time and tear parts apart see how they work.
Astonishing this video popped up in my reccomends....was just leaving out the door to get compressor (High-Low/Low-High)...might get lucky if it's expansion valve....cheap part & i was getting a decc. filter anyway too...my compressor cycling even sounded identical.
Thank you for this. I had a full charge of 134a and still no cooling. the compressor would run for 5 seconds or less and shut off. The low side pressure would drop while it was running and rise slowly when it stopped. No cooling at all. I am going to take it in and have someone replace the TXV and retest. Thanks.
simply that is the BEST TXV video, thanks alot sharing your knowledge
I like your video very much. It's really great. I'll keep an eye on your channel. I am your fan and I will support you.
What an education!!! Not only on how to use the gauges but how to use them to diagnose this issue this issue for what ever type orfice valve/evaporator valve there is on the AC system. Most likely will be able to confirm a problem that I am pretty sure about already. But using a more scientific method would make me feel a lot better before actually doing the repair. Also make me the smartest something lol in the room when someone else runs into it next time. I can direct them to you here.
the picture are not clear boss, but your explanation is good, thank you for sharing of knowledge
Hooooly cow! You will never know how long it took me to find this clip! lol Thank you very much for the infromation!
You are the Ford God!
Dude you sir are the man.
Nice info great concise share of txv system expansion valve...
Great video, thanks for the great troubleshooting with the manifold gauges .
KNOWLEDGEABLE FordTechMakuloco
Outstanding tutorial 👌 👏 👍
Video great 👍 👌 👏 thank you very much helpful information God bless you FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
If the pressure fails to equalize when engine is off, this means the valve is stuck in closed state OR there is a blockage somewhere along the refrigerant circuit. If the valve was stuck closed however you’d expect the high pressure to be to high and the low to be too low. However your gauges showed the high pressure was ~ 100 (which is actually low reading). The fact that the low pressure was okay is a proof the compressor is not the culprit. If the compressor is working as intended but the high pressure is still low then there must be an obstruction between the compressor and the high pressure port-> most probably the condenser was the problem as it commonly gets packed with metal shavings from the old defective compressor!!
An excellent presentation ,concisely explained.
Thank you.
Intelligent dude
Thank you for sharing!!!
Hey man just want to thank you for all the help that you have given me I have a 2000 Ford F-150 4 x 4 I have replaced timing chains timing chain gears oil pump and so on due to your UA-cam videos thank you couldn't have got through it without you sorry for the length of the chat but I have a shutter in my rear end coming out of 5th gear on bypass can't quite figure out what that might be transmission or rear end any idea
Excellent work , keep up the great education
GREAT explanation (as usual). Why did the adjustment plug for the seat and spring remove so easily? If it's adjusted I would think it would be temporarily locked into position so vibrations wouldn't loosen it and change the desired spring pressure.
Great explanation and fix! Thanks for this diagnosis.
interesting vid!! my low side pressure keep flactuating... do you have any idea??? the ac is not cold enough
Excellent video and explanation. Is it possible a scenario to stack the THX valve and be open all time. How it's possible to diagnose that issue ?
this video is gold thank you sir!👍
Excellent explanation, is it possible the TXV stuck open and stay always open , how can we diagnose that issue ?
The sencing bulb lost its charge and is not putting any pressure on your needle. Thats why it has no resistance onto the spring or in this case your finger.
I have a 2008 Taurus X the low side is 55 psi and the high side is 270psi at 80 degrees. the cabin air is cool around 55-60. I put on new txv and dryer already. What could be the issue.
That's interesting, I have a 94 eagle summit that has a possible similar situation, yet the AC does get cold. It does equalize out on static pressure but it takes awhile, longer than you stated. The problem is the clutch kicks on and off way too much. Running pressures appear to be fine, low pressure does drop too much, down to about 20 then the pump kicks off, but that pump constantly kicking on and off is annoying. It doesn't have a leak, I've added some refrigerant but ended up taking some back out cause the pump started chattering. Take some back out and receivers sight glass has bubbles flowing acrossed it. Charge it up a bit and the bubbles disappear. No matter what I do the clutch always kicking off and on constantly about every two minutes or less.
Well done mate, you teach real well, good on you men.
I learned something new today.
Shouldn't the txv flow on the high side when at ambient and above temps are detected on the exit of the evap....which would allow more refrigerant to the evap. Can check a txv by making sure the high side flows good when not installed.
My rigmaster Apu on the side of my semi truck is doing the same thing. I believe u just solved my problem. But my compressor stays on. I'm gonna replace that valave and go from there. Thanks
Sir I have a 2009 mustang v6 it’s cold when you moving but sitting still it doesn’t cool as good? Would you recommend I change mine? TXV Valve? Thank you!! 👍💯
Does your fan works? Maybe its your condenser
Nice and very informative video! ❤
This is a great video and great information. My AC warms up when I’m driving but when I’m idle at the stop light it gets cool, what do you think the problem is? I have been told me compressor is bad or my expansion valve needs to be replaced.
I'm having a problem with a conversion kit for my 1972 mercury cougar. The high side is going up a little high and low side is dropping way down to 10 psi and not cutting off.I think it is the txv valve. Everything is new except the evaporator. I did remove it and cleaned fins and flushed inside with proper cleaning flush. Everything seems fine there. Do you think it is the txv? Thanks for any advice
Nice job with video Brian. Looks like a good fix!
It sure was I hope they were happy with it.
@@FordTechMakuloco
I have a Ford f150 2010 king ranch drivers side behind center panel the actuator there is a arm mine is attached to actuator but hanging down not attacked to anything can you help me
@@FordTechMakuloco 2006 mazda 3s 2.3L auto sedan 335 k miles
I have this problem the does car not over heating . Theonly part I have not changed is expansion valve and high and low sensors I charged up with 134a no leak filler shop said I need a new compressor and high line I replaced myself
New parts
Ac compressor new not rebuilt not China crap eather GPD
Cooling fan
Condenser
Dryer
High pressure line
Water pump
Thermostat
Flushed radiator inside /ou coolant
Expansion tank
Cab filter
What could it be?
Would it be a similar problem for a 2008 ford taurus x?. When it idles theres nothing but heat but when its in motion is cold again. Thank you for all your videos I have learned alot all thanks to you.
compressor clutch may be slipping or not engaging due to the extra heat at idle
clean or remove cabin air filter to blow more air inside.
Insulate the entire high pressure line with $5 pipe wrap, specially near firewall where engine heat is the highest.
System efficiency is the key to removing more heat.
👍🏻
My 99 Durango has that type of valve. I suspect it is bad also.
It cycles the pump for a few seconds and you can hear the refrigerant inside the vehicle but it doesn't cool.
great vid bro. very interesting. guarantee a rewatch is gonna happen. Great info!
I’m completely confused with my a/c system at the moment and would like to have your opinion about this matter. My A/C system was acting sporadically going between cold, warm, cool to cold cool and eventually just cool or warm. No leaks in the system, right amount of Freon, fan and compressor kicks on. But the problem I’m having is pressure. While compressor is running, The high side pressure is at about 150 but the low side is way to high at well over 120psi or more. I’m thinking compressor?? Not pumping or sucking enough through the system. Or could it be an expansion valve ? But if it were stuck open, wouldn’t I have some cold air for a bit until it stays to frost... and if it were stuck closed, the shouldn’t I have low, low side pressure? Any help please from anyone. Thank you.
Did you ever get this figured out?
Really enjoy your videos. Thank you
Excellent video, you are so kool for letting us all know this info, that can save big dollars, thank you so much and hope you get rich, or already are.
Really nice video. My car is a 2009 toyota corolla my low side sits on 20 to 30psi while my high side sits on 150 to 200psi the the system was charged the low side hoses get really cold but the system cycles too often and inside doesn't get as cold as it should. The technician suggested changing the expansion valve. Pls what are your thoughts
Awesome video it helps a lot …..thanks a lot
Nice job! Thanks!
Great video. Sir I have a 2011 Ford mustang and the AC has started getting warm and then it goes back cold and It will stay cold for a while and then it will get warm? Will this valve make it go back-and-forth like that?
Similar readings on my tractor trailer 2006 freightliner I'm driving... Could to much dye mess it up... Last driver owner put several cans of dye detector and some stop leak.... I bleed off a lot and every time what seemed like an excessive amount of neon yellow oil was blown g out...
I got a 1992 ford econoline e 150 and the air conditioning compressor sweat also can't find where the orifice goes I would appreciated if you know how to fix it
That is a really good drawing but a legend would make it more useful plus it would be more intuitive if the low side line was drawn more to scale (larger).
What is the better system TXV or Orifice tube setup?in your opinion,Great video!
Thanks for the video!
Will a bad TXB cause a car to feel like it's going to darn near die when it's "switching"?
2010 Equinox blows a little cold air but mostly hot.
I haven't gotten the gauges on it yet but it's hot as hell this week.
Thanks for the great info
Nice video and diagnosis
Diagnosing a 2001 VW Jetta 2.0L with my students. Came to us with new compressor already installed. System was low on charge. After charging it to spec compressor clutch engages but only 60°F vent temps, Low Side: 65psi, High side: 75psi. Anyway to differentiate between stuck open TXV and bad compressor? Figuring our next move is to remove TXV for inspection. Thanks in advance for any insight in.