You are not doing it right either. AC in a can is the shade tree backyard way. Use a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, or recovery and charge machine. Leak sealers in a can are not good....pull 20 inches of vacuum to pull moisture and contaminants from the system... then charge the right way.
A special thanks to all the expert mechanics and hvac techs for pointing out the obvious. We all know freon in a can is not the same as having our car serviced by an $85/hr professional, but for most of us this works just fine. Cheers
Exactly. In my area labor is $150 and hour with a minimum of one hour. Also, no place I've ever had my AC serviced can simply check the refrigerant charge. They insist on pulling a vacuum then installing a full charge. Of course it can take up to an hour to pull said vacuum so now labor is at least an hour and a half plus materials so now you're looking at a bill of $300-$350. So about once a year I add a $6 can of R-134a whenever my 2008 Durango stops cooling very well.
@@johnmcafee6140 That's because you don't test an A/C charge by pressure. You test it by weight. And the only way to do that is to pull all the refrigerant out. BTW, you shouldn't have to recharge it basically ever. You've got a leak somewhere. Probably one of the test port valves. Probably caused by you shoving an Autozone refrigerant can on there every year. Which would take me or any decent mechanic about 20 mins to diagnose. Also, a lot of those parts store cans have stop leak in them. That stuff is destroying your compressor. It's ok, though. Keep running it and when you need an entire A/C system rebuild in a year or 2, tell me how I'm "ripping you off."
@@1337penguinman I have pressure/temperature charts that have been very reliable for me. I have my own vacuum pump and a lot of time on my hands so I can draw down the system overnight; if it holds vacuum with the gauge still connected then it is ready to charge. I have my own gauges as well. I do both R-12 and R-134a on my vehicles. I am retired (74) and cannot afford to have a shop work on my vehicles. A friend of mine was quoted $600 to get his Ford truck A/C working and the mechanic never looked at the system, did a sniff test for freon leaks, or pressurize with nitrogen to do a soap test for leaks. Sheesh. I told him to come over and I will show him how to diagnose, repair, recharge, and be on his way.
Saw on another video a very easy way to check if the system even has freon, this DOES NOT CHECK PRESSURE LEVEL but does check if there is some in there, use a screw driver or tool to press the valve in on the low pressure port and see if it whistles or makes some noise like air or freon is coming out. Very much like a tire, press in on the valve and it’ll let some out. Very good tips on this video!! If you’re watching this video and are not understanding the terminology, aren’t sure which line you’re to be adding the freon to, which lines you’re even going to be messing with, any level of doubt where you’re thinking you’re “lost” then it’s simple, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT. Just bite the bullet and take it to a shop. If you connect and the pressure is in the green like he said, DO NOT ADD MORE as freon isn’t the issue. That’s something else in the system and adding freon will not only NOT FIX your issue, it can add more problems and lead to a bigger bill when you inevitably do take it to a shop. Had a friend ruin his entire HVAC system because of doing that. I (and you should as well) know what type of freon to be using, which line is the low vs high pressure line (low is usually a thicker line and high pressure is usually a smaller line), know the HIGHLY suggested environment temperature to perform this in, make sure you’re outside or in a garage with proper ventilation, and definitely wear safety gear IE SAFTEY GLASSES AND GLOVES. If you’re injured, specially your eyes, you won’t be able to enjoy the reason you even did this repair in the first place, COLDER AC. Best of luck and DO YOUR RESEARCH!!
I wouldn't chance using a screw driver to test for freon, since you might damage the valve and/or spray freon on yourself. Spend the money on a can with a fill hose and before puncturing the can, attach the hose by itself to the LP side. You can read the pressure and release any air in the system when squeezing the trigger.
For those that don’t know there’s a pressure differential needed to actually charge your AC system. If you are in the green do not try to go higher into the green because for one the system pressure will be higher than your can so it won’t want to take anymore and two you need to leave some space for gas expansion so don’t try and over charge it. If your AC isn’t cooling first check to see if your condenser fan is on because it is what pulls the hot air out of the car and allows for your refrigerant to cool off before going through your vents. So sometimes you don’t need refrigerant but it’s mechanical. I just wanted to throw that out there.
@@shericantor1031 well most cars come with two fans and one is for the radiator and the second for the condenser and it is wired in series with the compressor so it will only come on if the compressor turns on or vice versa. If the car gets up to temperature only one fan turns on. You can jump the fan/compressor at the fuse block but if the compressor is low on refrigerant or the fan switch, low pressure control switch is not working then it won’t turn on normally.
Condenser fan does not pull heat out of the car. The condenser fan is mounted to the condenser, which does as the name implies. It condenses freon. So, in order, for most cars: Low pressure freon gas is pulled into the compressor, which then compresses the low pressure freon gas into a high pressure freon gas. It then enters the condenser and the high pressure gas is then 'condensed' into a high pressure liquid, which then enters the dryer (on most systems), which cleans the liquid by removing garbage as well as moisture that may be present. Then the high pressure liquid freon enters the expansion valve which meters the freon and turns it into a low pressure liquid on the other side (the pressure release also is what creates the cold air so to speak. The low pressure liquid freon now enters the evaporator, which turns it into a low pressure gas freon. and the cycle continues.
I can't tell you how refreshing and informative this video has been. I'm not a car person, I'm a computer person. I know how to do most "basic" things when it comes to the engine and maybe 1 or 2 more intermediate, but when it comes to recharging the a/c, I always get a little nervous. Almost every dang video on youtube that talks about recharging your a/c is like "Oh here's your can, here's the valve aaaand....poof done"...that didn't explain crap to me. This video is the FIRST video to explain the gauge, the doors and temp and proper use of the canister. Thank you so much, you have definitely earned a subscriber and follower here.
Some negative comments regarding the use of those charging cans. I charged my truck last year using A/C pro and used the rest of the can this year. I have no problem buying a can every two years . Ice Cold Air for a year in a very hot climate. A cheap and easy fix.
@@joshuaperezhernandez8041 I do most of my mechanical work. I've been working on cars since I was 14. Based on my experience with many mechanics that do it for a living the term amateur could be used.
@@gregrussell2692 a home gamer should be using a guage set. He's obsessed with the green area. You need to know the low pressure side and high pressure side pressures and cross reference to an ambient temperature chart if you're not doing a full reclaim and recharge.
Automotive technician here... I've been doing a mobile service here in Houston. I have a small inverter generator, Yellow Jacket vacuum pump, a small recovery machine and recovery tank. I remove the freon, pull a vaccum for 30 minutes, and charge with virgin freon to factory specs. All for $90. The problem with AC PRO cans is that they contain alot of oil to push a small amount of freon into your system. That causes an over-oiling of the freon, that decreases the heat transfer and efficiency of the system. Which leads to a decreased performance of the ac. My camry blows 28 degrees in the morning. In the Texas heat, my customers thank me for getting them cold.
@@DigitalExorcist usually no. But I do add a shot or 2 of tracer dye to the system, to help find leaks, if they call me back. And you'd be surprised how many people fell that the $100 is too much to charge. The price of a 30lb r134 cylinder went from $109, to $389. So when I have to buy a new one, my price will increase to about $130-150
5 years ago I was on an out of state road trip. A/c kept getting warmer and warmer. Auto shop said $1,200 to make it right. Didn’t have the bucks so I put in two cans of Freon,with the gauge and followed instructions on can. Held cold for a full year. I have added Freon each year for 5 years and the a/c continues to work. For $30 a year vs $1200 to fix I consider a win for the little guy.
Another great tip that I have learned is to watch for the lines near the dryer to start sweating and getting good and cold. If you keep adding much freon past that the cooling will reverse and the vent temps get warmer and some freon will have to be removed. Another thing if adding freon only lasts a couple weeks or a month there is a leak that needs to be fixed. Try soaping all the AC lines with the car off as static pressure should be close to 110psi and enough to cause bubbling. Some very slow leaks require draining the system and pressuring with nitrogen at 200PSI to find them. A leaking seal in an AC compressor shaft can be very hard to find because it only leaks under high pressure with the car running and producing 250 to 350 psi on the high side. I had a compressor like that in my dump truck. It finally got to where charging the system wouldn't last all day. And I had soaped and pressure tested the line over and over finding nothing. So by process of elimination I determined it to be the compressor. That did fix it. Its been blowing ice cubes ever since I replaced it. If you change any lines on the AC system you have to add a little of the correct Pag oil back into the system and vacuum it down to get any moisture out. I haven't always replaced the dryer every time I empty out an AC system especially if I just put a new one on but it is recommended. A moisture saturated dryer can cause your AC to freeze at the orifice or expansion valve and quit cooling.
Good recomendations. Now about the receiver drier if the vehicle gets subject to a full vacuum no moisture will exist in the receiver drier or any other part of the A/C system thus making it completely safe to leave the receiver drier in place👍
They are fine as long as your only issue is low charge. Once you have other issues like a restriction or electrical problem they don’t do any good. Many times I’ve had customers bring me their car “empty or low” and it ended up being overcharged because they were relying on that low side gauge those kits come with and they just dumped everything in there. That’s where the high side gauge comes in handy. Everyone thinks ac repair is a ripoff but unfortunately it’s a complicated system. Unless everything is working fine and it is just low, the average diy guy just can’t figure it out. That’s how I make a living! 👍🏻
See how that do it yourself can has the squeeze handle/connector on top of the can.? Is it ok to just buy a small can and add the squeeze handle/connector to the small 12 ounce can? And what if it say's it's already full (in the green area) but I keep putting more in untill I'm in the yellow area?
Yes this a great explanation but as a tech myself. The only thing i gotta say is make sure the can doesn't have sealant in it. That stuff will clog up your system and you need to do a flush and all that other stuff. Good stuff though it's good to help people. Thanks for sharing that.
I took auto mechanics yrs ago, the AC class was lacking in info so I went over to home HVAC and took a class there, they really explained it well. Superheat and subcool measurements, 2000 rpms, fan blowing on the front to simulate actual driving conditions. 15 to 20 degree drop. Ambient temp, interior temp, all these things come into play.
The first step BEFORE turning on the car is to hook up the gauge to make sure you have some pressure in the system. If no pressure you are putting refrigerant in a system that may have air and moisture in it and it needs to be evacuated and leak checked by a mechanic.
@@yankotactical1134 if you open any lines then the system needs to be vacuumed. The point of the vacuum is to remove the moisture so it doesn't turn to steam and turn your a/c system into a bomb
Depends on the type of system, and compressor oil used. Oxygen can react with the compressor oil, and start to form an acid eating the system from the inside out. Biggest issue is immediately you can start to have restrictions from the oxygen you have within the system. You can start getting moisture which will freeze, and plug the system up.
I live in South Florida, I can't believe there is a mechanic or any professional that knows anything that doesn't involve emptying a customer's wallet at warp speed.
Why i dont let anypne touch my cars with there meat beaters. Only i touch it aside from alimements and stuff i dont have 20 grand for the tool. Those use lazers now and have dummy resistant guidance via electronic screen
@@chickensfloat7427 that's my favorite. When customers think they know what they're doing because they have the internet and Scotty Kilmer. Alignment machines have had lasers for years and what tool costs $20k besides an alignment rack? Just stop.
Im a fleet technican for class 8 trucks, our alignment tool was a couple hundred bucks. Granted commercial vehicles are so much easier to work on the cars, but I have yet to see a 20k alignment machine. My old Ford dealer ship had a brand new top of the line Hunter alignment machine installed for 8k.
@@chickensfloat7427 there's also more to it than just following the screen. What if it pulls after you put everything in spec? What if you can't get it in spec? What if there's abnormal tire wear and it's in spec. Don't try to downplay a skill set that you don't have. My guess is that you change your own oil and pretend to do your own brakes.
@@sonicelectronic57 not to sound like a dick but. There's a lot of people calling themselves mechanics that are not? Passing a written test doesn't necessarily mean you're any good at the profession. And for every honest mechanic There's 10 dishonest one's waiting to take your money and deliver a vehicle worse than it was? Sad but very true. I know this to be fact because I spend everyday fixing vehicles that were taken to a dealership and not repaired or damaged from a poor job? Crappie part's are becoming a huge problem today also. But that being said I do run into my fair share of shadetree mechanics screw ups lol. There's never a shortage of repairs to do around this town to be sure. I'm impressed with south main auto on UA-cam though for his diagnostic skills 👌.
Been doin a/c for 35 years, there’s so many variables low gas is just the tip of the ice burg. The amount of situations that aren’t in text books is incredible
I had a guy come in for an a/c diag. Got in the car and indeed a/c was hot. Pulled it in and popped the hood. Looked at the condenser and there was a large plastic bag behind the grill plastered across the condenser. I removed the bag and low and behold, a/c was cold again. Showed the guy what happened, and didn't charge him.
@@archangel3237 My 134's been leaking out every winter for the past few years so i have the mech. fill it every May for $70, but now the passenger floorboard is getting wet and there's a swooshing sound around turns so i wonder if it's related to the freon leak or just a seperate a/c water leak.
That’s most likely a build up of condensation from the evaporator, normally it would drain out through a small hose, unblock it with some shop air, and check that it’s not coolant from the heater core , it would smell if it was was
Nice work! The only thing I do differently is I check the system by attaching the gauge without the can (just don’t squeeze the trigger)! No reason to break the seal on the can until you know that it’s low and needs recharging!
You said we must keep the can upright (so only gas not liquid refrigerant doesn't go directly into the system, I presume). However, when done you showed the can lying down. Is that an error?
I never considered the stereotype, but yeah, I think southern guys -- despite having an accent that sounds a little different to my California ears-- tend to be really effective communicators and thorough in explaining things.
"I have gauges in the vents." Thorough instrumentation is a Very Good Thing. There are things going on that our senses cannot detect--especially if we are not trained and experienced. Excellent video. I've done a few recharges, tried my best to follow the directions on the can and in the manual, and still learned a few good points--in the shade with all doors opened being two of the best. Thank you.
Charging a car/truck's A/C is NOT rocket surgery. If you re-charge and it doesn't blow cold air, lick the tip of the connector and say "feces" three times in row, and then throw garlic over your LEFT shoulder (NOT right). Then, start the motor and do a somersault. This is the PROPER way to recharge your system. You'll need a snow bib in the summer while traveling in your vehicle. 👍Your Mom taught me that...
@@tennaj.5208I actually got my car's AC recharged for $70, and it feels amazing! They also checked for leaks. In my opinion, it’s worth the money because I cant stand driving two hours there and two hours back without AC anymore. Trying using Groupon to see if there are any deals in your area.
Thanks to this video I get customers that come to the shop “ my a/c dont work and I put 2 cans in there and still nothing “ lol I get about 3lbs free freon when I do the recovery 😂
You're getting free 3 lb of freon contaminated with air, moisture and oil acids caused by leaks and improper charging. And then I assume you are using it to put in your customers cars?
@@MrNiceCobra thats why a real A/c recovery machine has Filter… Just saying. And after the recovery it performs Vacuum.. and then re charge… Or you going to tell me every time you recover a car you need to get rid of the 30lbs freon and buy a new one because that car could of had contaminated freon?? I’ll agree with you if you using a backyard style a/c recover lol
@@kordobez3978 Refrigerant recycle refers to the reduction of used refrigerant contaminants using devices that reduce oil, water, acidity, and particulates,” writes DuPont. “Recycle is usually a field or shop procedure with no analytical testing of refrigerant." “Reclamation refers to the reprocessing of used refrigerants to ARI 700 specifications. Quality of reclaimed product is verified by chemical analysis. “Reclamation offers advantages over onsite refrigerant recycling procedures,” DuPont says, “because these systems cannot guarantee complete removal of contaminants. Putting refrigerants that do not meet new product specifications back into expensive equipment may cause damage.” Some refrigerant may not be reclaimed because it is too contaminated and should be despised. So without analyzing it is game of guessing and hoping that refrigerant was cleaned enough . But on the other hand it's a job security ;)
Due to the diff brands of cars they are not all the same. A lot of the foreign cars need to be bled at the low side. This has cost ppl alotta money when they dump in a recharge the system says its full and its not its just full of hot air like most of the guys that make them there videos.
Directions say to keep the can straight up and down, occasionally turning the can 90 degrees and back up. While connected to the low pressure line there wasn't enough slack for you to keep the can upright. Likely why you skipped the filling. These manufacturers need to give you a longer hose!
This refrigerant is a blended gas. It must be installed in a liquid form or you will be pushing the lighter gas into the system. Which changes the super heat and boiling point properties of the refrigerant. This causes the system to it to function and cool properly.
@@keithslater7286- R134a is NOT a blended refrigerant, it can be introduced into the system as either a liquid or a gas, with caution exercised when charging as a liquid to prevent compressor damage.
Hands down the BEST tutorial I've seen on how to charge the AC system. NIA (Nates Interactive Auto) is an EXCELLENT instructor (I wish that I had teachers/instructors like him back in the day)!!! I have LIKED & Subscribed to NIA channel. Thank you for sharing your skills, tips and wisdom. Looking forward to viewing MORE of your UA-cam tutorials.
You shouldn't be playing around with those cans with a generic low side gauge. Just go spend $50 at harbor freight tools and buy an actual manifold set with low and high side gauges. All you're doing is introducing air into the system with that can since the hose wasn't purged. Don't take this guy's advice folks, just do it the correct way, at the very least purge the hose on the can. I understand that not everyone has a vacuum pump and a recovery machine at their disposal, but come on man.
If you take money to do ac work you are legally required to have a reclamation machine. Fines begin at 10k and go up. I worry about not knowing what the high side is. If you have a plugged oriface tube or stuck expansion valve you will cause real problems like a locked compressor or blown lines.
Last Wednesday, July 3rd, I used my $7,000 R-134a A/C reclaim / recharge machine and pulled 36oz. of refrigerant out of a 2000 Wrangler. The customer used one of your spiffy DIY charge cans with the little gauge earlier that morning. His system takes only 20oz. Why did he come see me? His clutch burned up from too much refrigerant. This afternoon, he picked up his Wrangler from me with a new compressor, accumulator / drier, and orifice tube and left me with $1,100 cash. Keep making these videos. It makes real mechanics real money. Thank you.
If you watched he clearly states to not use too much. So your comment is kind of useless lol you’re just saying what he said except being arrogant bc clearly he controls the mistakes of other people lol. Not everyone can afford going to the mechanic for every single thing and need a simple fix bc it works better for their current needs and budget. Not everyone falls in the same category. Being a douche bc you only see within your small realm of the world and think that’s how everyone should live, doesn’t make you look any better or smarter lol. Good day!
@@Itsjustalia_duhh Using a gauge to charge refrigerant instead of a scale is bad news all around. People using these do-it-yourself charge cans is 100% guesswork. Guesswork more often than not will, in the long run, cost much more money than doing it right the first time.
Before adding any refrigerant to your system maks sure your Schrader valves are tight there are 2 valves that can leak over time ,high and low pressure valves you can get a little screw driver at any auto parts store that has a slotted end to tighten both valves and before you tighten them get a spray bottle and dish soap water and spray the valves to see if they are leaking with the engine and ac running
Yep. I redid my whole ac system...compressor and all and it leaked. I was so upset. Low and behold one of the Schrader valves was leaking. Replaced that very cheap part and worked like a charm
🤣🤣🤣 I clicked this video bc the title said mechanics and I knew the hell this man just released on himself without knowing. Everybody is instantly and an expert. Let battle begin! 😂😂
@@f-j-Services I've worked on AC system on automobiles for 40 plus years and still learn something new every now and then. I also have cut trees professionally for 40 plus years. 4 different climbers could take down the same tree differently and all 4 could do it correctly and have been right. For each his own, but everyone isn't a good teacher.
Most mechanic shops are required by the EPA to use the proper refrigerant handling systems that are capable of capturing and recycling refrigerant from a vehicle. That can does not meet those requirements. But it is perfectly legal for the do it yourselfer to use them. But if it is done in a shop, they have to follow those regulations, be certified and the equipment to do so had to be certified.
I will add you should also use a pressure gauge to monitor the High pressure side as well. If the High side stays too Low (e.g. below 100 psi) or goes super high (above 300 psi) while adding Freon then there is a blockage / malfunction in the system and you should stop immediately. Failure to do so risks damaging the AC Compressor or something else in the system.
@@curedham2963A normally-operating system's high-pressure side should read around 250-300psi. The systems are designed to operate in this pressure range.
I just read three different brands of AC cans. (All of them were 134a of course since that is all that is available on the market) None of them said anything about doing it in the shade or leaving doors open. Logic says the door reference is because you don't want your thermostat to turn off your AC in the middle of the procedure. I suppose the shade thing is about not letting the ambient temperature getting too hot since temp is a factor in the pressure shown on the gauge. Probably both good ideas to follow but definitely not universally recommended or required.
yes, don't over charge... but the best way is to Evacuate the system with vacuum pump and then use a scale to charge the exact amount. this guy is trying to help thumbs up
I guess I was just lucky but mine quit blowing cold, I bought the stuff , hooked it up , put three fourths of the can in, never looked at a guage, that was 10 years ago and the S10 still blows cold ❄️🤩👍
This is very thorough and very helpful thank you Also you sound like my friend Jeremy, the way you speak tones and flexions all sound like him. Have a blessed day !
You shouldn't use those cans, you always want to use a set of gauges, you can't accurately charge your system without monitoring what the high side is doing as well. You need to see both low an high side pressures in order to accurately diagnose the problem on an ac system. These cans are marketed for taking money out of your pocket, an not resolving the underlying issue, which will eventually cost you more in the long run. Point is if you don't know about AC systems an still want to go the DIY route. Go by yourself a set of gauges an do some research on the internet, an learn on your own. Or save your money take the vehicle to a reputable mechanic, not a shade tree dude with all the doors open an a can of chiller.
@@banjominer9682 because they contain sealer. No shop can ever hook their machine to your system again. Get a big hole that the sealer won’t seal. Then you need a whole AC system.
yes, you can borrow the proper tools for free from auto parts stores and the coolant is even cheaper than these toy cans. so I dont know why people dont do the job correctly for the same price.
Dude it literally tells you how much r134a the system takes. You want the coldest possible? “Recover” the 134a and weigh it in. By weighing it in you can skip all that open door, in the shade crap and you put exactly what the car manufacturer wanted in it.
If the system was low on refrigerant to begin with that means it has a leak and pulling a vacuum on it will suck air in that leak. Unless its a pinhole leak your taking chances of introducing non condensables into the system
6:57 you did not purge the atmosphere from the fill hose. You have introduced air and moisture to this system. Line purge is considered deminimus release and allowed. Even small amounts of atmosphere can become the early failure point of ac systems in a few years time. Use air to blow out the low side port after you wipe it down, anything retained within that port gets pumped into the system. These are critical points.
And cars have receiver dryers to catch moisture and contaminants. Whenever the system is opened, you must replace these components, evacuate the air with a vacuum pump, then recharge.
Got to love it. He is telling you the ultimate best correct way to charge your A.C. , but he is using a can from autozone without monitoring the high pressure side. LOL
What those can gauges don't show you is the ambient tempature for the amount of freon you need. Low side of the green may work for 50-60⁰ Temps but not for 85⁰+ on a manifold set they show you what amount for what ambient Temps you need
Years ago I worked as heating and cooling tech and one of the things that sticks out is turning can upside down for liquid and right side up to just increase pressure.but that was using guard in both sides and removing all air first
As a certified technician If it's low there's a reason . There's a reason why it's low or empty take it to a shop The system doesn't know if it's air or refrigerate in the system get it done right
Wow! Thanks! It worked! Guage was barely in the green (which read filled) no blue on my guage .. filled to the higher end of the green and working great. 😊
I laughed so hard when he showed the MEAT thermometer that was so far off the scale and said "And this one... well it's probably not the best". I certainly appreciate the good tips though!
"You must perform this in the shade! It says so right on the can!" Proceeds to charge it in direct sunlight. Lmao just teasing. But just out of curiosity, why does it matter if you do it in the shade? Is it because the sunlight can heat up the can and mess with your pressure readings? Also why does it matter if the doors are all open? I can't come up with a reason for that one. Thanks for the video!
He was probably forced to lay the can on its side because of (1) the very short hose that came with the can, and (2) the tight location of the low side tap. This is one of the drawbacks of using an R-134A container/valve/hose combination type canister rather than the preferred method of using a standard R-134A can (or tank) and separate hoses and gauges. Doing any work, especially AC work, as a DIYer can be problematic if you don't have the right tools for the job.
I'm under the impression no one should be messing with their refrigerant unless they know what they are doing. I've been in the refrigeration business for over a decade now and I've never once "topped off" a system. I've pulled gas in and out to account for ambient temp but not any other time unless a tech didn't know his head from his ass. Low refrigerant always indicates leak if all other conditions are satisfactory.
Yes and no... unless there's a clear leak or somthing you can find chances are the compressor shaft seal is leaking.. I'm not super familiar with 609 systems but idk if that's servicable or you'd have to change the compressor? But if its not topping off might be the best fix if it's a small enough leak. Otherwise removing gas and recharging is just going to cause you to introduce noncondensibles during the evacuation.
I use manifold gauges on high & low side when charging. The gauges help pinpoint a problem, if there is one. Using a temperature/ pressure chart is an effective guide in dialing in the correct pressures for maximum cooling/ taking into account the ambient temperature. Remember to bleed off just a small amount of refrigerant from the hoses as you are connecting the lines, to avoid getting air into the system. And NEVER, EVER, charge through the high side! This could be fatal.
@@zekemadjar1966 Open the high side side, while the can is upside down and while vehicle is running. Slowly let it, or you'll jam up the compressor. And if you're putting a lot in, obviously monitor the weight. It's a much quicker process, for large amounts. I've even put liquid in the low side(very small amounts though). Edit: to answer your question about can pressure, it should suck it into the system, while the vehicle is running(?). I wish we could post pictures, I'd show you what the exact procedure is, if I could post a picture, from the page of a manual, from an automotive technical institute/college(Universal Technical institute). I haven't worked on cars in some years and haven't had the chance to really test this out, just recently found this info and haven't had a big enough job that I could try it out on. However, years and years ago, I've seen a couple other techs do it and at the time, never really understood what they were doing, but I have seen it done.
@@elgoog7830 the high side is the discharge and the low side is suction. That's why it goes in through the low side. It's like trying to push water back in the faucet with it wide open!
@@zeke112964 I understand. Like I said though... Seen it, read it.. obviously possible. Since I haven't messed with it, and don't have the manual in front of me, technicalities are likely missing. And again, if I could post a picture of the manual.
Look people. It's fundamental. It's VERY EASY to charge an ac system. You can open a couple of doors yes. Put your ac on "Normal" not recirculate or "Max" setting. Connect the low side ( which is what comes with the recharge kit) start the car, turn on the ac, go back to the bottle and open it,.. the ac clutch should come on (if everything is working properly), it should start charging ALL BY ITSELF!! really. feel the big aluminium line coming out of your firewall.. if you can, if not then just a bit further down. You'll feel the line getting a bit colder gradually.. then suddenly it will get snapping cold. Thats it. its charged. the evaporator is flooded. Done. Turn the bottle off and disconnect. Always put the plastic cap back.
There's a TON of incorrect information in this video, and very little that is correct. Whole thing is a guess that the system is low on refrigerant; high side pressures can help a little with that, but only real way is to recover and weigh the refrigerant - like with real shop equipment. NEVER use any sealer or refrigerant containing sealer, and use a real set of gauges.
@@AikidoTubeSock anything inside an AC system other then the correct PAG oil and correct AC refrigerant is a contaminate. Sealer plugs condensers and evaporators and ruins ac machines ! Also, its what hacks do! fix it right its not that hard
@@kolinreichstein3399When your on a budget the enviro synthetic works just fine,some dont have the 1000+ too pay a shop ,but you cant mix products ,thats were the DIY people are running into problems ,i have used this stuff for over 30yrs. in ag equipment ,cars trucks ,window and central ac;s fridges and freezers ,no system failers ever, enviro sealer is compatable with enviro coolant and compresser oil,usally the compresser seals dry out after 7 to 10 years or a micro weep in flex lines and you loose some charge and the low pressure saftey switch kicks in,or the compresser is running and it only makes slightly cool air. Most of the time 1 can of sealer and proper amount of refrigerent will cure the problem,all systems are stamped with the coolant fill weight and type ,and you can do that precisely with a kitchen digitial scale,if you still have a leak without using a dye test ,it smells like a christmas tree and will leave an yellow oily residue ,easy to pin point the the leak from,you need to pull a vachum and recharge the system when your sure any leaks are fixed ,you can try this your self over 25 times compared to taking it in to a shop,and if you have a 1234 system,the coolant cost alone can be over 2000 bucks now for a factory charge ,compared to enviro synthetic at 60, i did a buddys newer charger last summer,and was shocked at what they wanted for the refrigerant alone,it was only low,so we pulled a vachum added sealant and charged it ,its run a year now no problems and holding its pressure,be sure with chrysler products to use the right compresser oil ,or compresser will fail ,i belive they use a mineral based oil which doesnt mix with conventional compresser oil.
proper tools are cheap and you can do this the mechanic way and save 1000s in the long run. if your car is only worth $500, then it might be ok to use these toys that come from walmart. I wouldn't destroy a car with these if the car is worth more than $500
First and foremost your ac is a sealed system so you shouldn’t have to top off. This works if your in a pinch but remember if your low, there is a leak somewhere. A few things to remember. If the expansion valve or orifice tube is clogged or stuck you could keep adding refrigerant to the low side suction and it may only show up on the high side, so without a manifold gauge you could still be overcharging and not know it if you are using a low port pressure gauge only. Normally, after all the refrigerant is retrieved, and repairs made, I will vacuum for a few minutes then let it sit at -30hg for at least 30 minutes to make sure it is still holding the same vacuum. Then I’ll vacuum for at least another 30-45 min at get all the moisture out. With the vehicle running and ac on, I’ll purge the air in the center vacuum line until refrigerant comes out and then open the low side to let in said refrigerant which is measured by weight (not the low side pressure). Again, do you have to do this using a manifold and vacuum or an ac machine… not really, your just getting all the moisture out and extending the service life of the compressor and the rest of the ac system.
It is NOT sealed to the point that it prevents any amount from leaking out. ALL seals on any moving shaft do leak ever so slightly, so in time even a system that has never experienced a rupture or puncture WILL leak down enough that it can need a recharge. But you believe whatever you want because I am sure you THINK you know it all.
Very informative. I'd like to suggest that the quickest way to tell if the freon is actually going into the system is that the can will almost immediately become cold to the touch. Often even developing frost. Therefore, for safety reasons, in addition to safety glasses, a heavier pair of gloves should be worn. This is in case the fitting or the a/c hose begin to leak. Which could potentially cause frostbite. To help speed the process along, take a small plastic bucket, and fill it to at least half the height of the freon can, with Warm, not hot water. Place the Cold can of freon in the Warm water. This will reduce the amount of time it takes for the freon to enter the cars a/c system. Also, keep a couple of the windows or doors of the car open. This is for a couple of reasons. 1st: So you can quickly tell by feel, when the air is getting colder. 2nd: if for some reason there is an internal leak in the evaporator, you're less likely to breathe in any of the freon gas that could possibly build up, with the car doors & windows closed. Hopefully, these suggestions help to make your experience safe & easier. Cheers!
you only need to vac the system if it was worked on and fully discharged due to replacing a compressor or condenser or any other maintenance that required a full discharge of refrigerate. it dont need vacuumed if your just adding.
You really need to know what the high side pressure is too, there can be a blockage or an airflow issue through the condenser while the low side is below threshold & the high side way over pressure.
Yes yes but involving specifics kind of takes away from the hope that a major problem can be fixed real quick, doesn’t it? It’ll work almost half the time just like this. I think people that buy these cans are ready to write it off if the quick fix doesn’t work. If not then you’re absolutely right, and it can even cause more damage and cost them more money in the long run.
@Terrence Carbuncle I agree, these cans are used for quick recharge. Not hard. But what hurts is when it's a problem somewhere else, high side or condenser or block tubing & because we can't tell, we continue to fill & it's causing a problem. We just need to understand how the system fills & work.
@@cassiearchey yes, there's a high & low port both. The Walmart cans you get will only connect to the low side. If there's a blockage or an air flow restriction through the condenser it could have extremely high pressures & you'll never know it if you're only seeing the low side pressure.
Gauge kits with the hoses are available on Amazon. I’ve been doing my own A/C for 25 years. The proper tools don’t cost much, including the evacuation pump I just bought a few weeks ago.
@@codycole3202 link to evacuation pump? I would like to start recharging my ac but dont know where/how to start so any diy tutorial that shows ALL PROPER STEPS?
@olddeadleadfoot BINGO. You have a better chance of those hacks destroying more things than fixing your AC system. Finding a competent and honest mechanic is like finding the needle in a haystack.
I’ve seen numerous times people use the ‘stop leak’ in their a/c systems. I have made thousands of dollars flushing systems and replacing orffce tubes from this wonderful product.
It's technically illegal to purge refrigerant but in all honesty I don't know about y'all but idgaf. You take a pocket knife or something and push the release nob inside the valve. The valve for the low pressure point is literally like a tire stem. Just let a little out. Save time and money.
Yeah, it's illegal, but half the planet would have to purge their AC at the same time. Even then, I doubt it would show any significant value. This warning is basically just for all the window lickers that like to turn molehills into mountains. Hell, you ever read the side of a 2L bottle of soda pop that states; " Aim away from face - contents under pressure" ? Damn, they gotta take all the fun outta everything.
The government has R12 monitors located everywhere in the country including airborne drones so they can triangulate the location of anyone illegal releasing R12 from their AC system. Homeland Security has highly trained SWAT squads standing by to immediately respond and slap the offender on the wrist if they catch them in the act.
To recharge your system properly you remove all freon from the system put into a vacuum for 30 minutes and then you charge the system with the correct amount of freon.
Easiest way to change a system properly is to recover the charge “ if any” . Pull an evacuation and charge the system using a scale using a real manifold set and having your suction side and head pressure hoses hooked up taking in consideration ambient temperature 🤷🏻♂️
High side of the green side might be fine, depending on your model...the gauge isn't just colored, it has numbers. It's usually not hard to Google and find the capacity of your vehicle.
I also see where it says "STOPS LEAKS" on the can. That means it has stop leak in it which clogs the orifice tube and other components completely destroying your ac system. The only proper way to recharge a system is to reclaim the refrigerant, vacuum test the system, add oil if needed (depending on how much was removed from the reclaim), and refill to proper specification using a weighted machine. This freon in a can is snake oil.
No it isn't. I refilled my Civic with one of these... worked fine for years until I sold the car. HVAC techs can buy canned sealant commercially for old systems not worth major repairs. If nobody bought it they wouldn't sell it so somebody uses it. If a vacuum is pulled you're supposed to weigh in the initial charge then adjust from there using a chart.
Beware, charge your a/c in the shade or in the evening, then when you move it to a sunny area the high pressure may go too high creating an overcharge or dangerously high pressure. You really should never charge your a/c without gouges or not being able to monitor the high side.
you said that you needed to hold the can at 12 o'clock and shake back and forth, but with a short hose how did you do that? You didn't show how you charged it, only that it was full and laying on its side.
Do you have any information on improving The AC you can share with the NIA community? Your kindness is appreciated.
You are not doing it right either. AC in a can is the shade tree backyard way. Use a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, or recovery and charge machine. Leak sealers in a can are not good....pull 20 inches of vacuum to pull moisture and contaminants from the system... then charge the right way.
So much for holding it at 12oclock, lol.
Ive learned to clean ac condensor,my ac was blowing at 18 deg. F. Now blows at 2 deg. F.
@@James-929 Cool, you can use your car as a freezer too !
@@grzlbr 🤓😂
A special thanks to all the expert mechanics and hvac techs for pointing out the obvious.
We all know freon in a can is not the same as having our car serviced by an $85/hr professional, but for most of us this works just fine.
Cheers
Exactly. In my area labor is $150 and hour with a minimum of one hour. Also, no place I've ever had my AC serviced can simply check the refrigerant charge. They insist on pulling a vacuum then installing a full charge. Of course it can take up to an hour to pull said vacuum so now labor is at least an hour and a half plus materials so now you're looking at a bill of $300-$350. So about once a year I add a $6 can of R-134a whenever my 2008 Durango stops cooling very well.
@@johnmcafee6140 Problem solved, problem staying solved.
@@johnmcafee6140 That's because you don't test an A/C charge by pressure. You test it by weight. And the only way to do that is to pull all the refrigerant out. BTW, you shouldn't have to recharge it basically ever. You've got a leak somewhere. Probably one of the test port valves. Probably caused by you shoving an Autozone refrigerant can on there every year. Which would take me or any decent mechanic about 20 mins to diagnose. Also, a lot of those parts store cans have stop leak in them. That stuff is destroying your compressor. It's ok, though. Keep running it and when you need an entire A/C system rebuild in a year or 2, tell me how I'm "ripping you off."
@@1337penguinman I have pressure/temperature charts that have been very reliable for me. I have my own vacuum pump and a lot of time on my hands so I can draw down the system overnight; if it holds vacuum with the gauge still connected then it is ready to charge. I have my own gauges as well. I do both R-12 and R-134a on my vehicles. I am retired (74) and cannot afford to have a shop work on my vehicles. A friend of mine was quoted $600 to get his Ford truck A/C working and the mechanic never looked at the system, did a sniff test for freon leaks, or pressurize with nitrogen to do a soap test for leaks. Sheesh. I told him to come over and I will show him how to diagnose, repair, recharge, and be on his way.
It would be nice if a real auto tech would describe how to use a can. This guy really doesn't understand what he's doing.
Saw on another video a very easy way to check if the system even has freon, this DOES NOT CHECK PRESSURE LEVEL but does check if there is some in there, use a screw driver or tool to press the valve in on the low pressure port and see if it whistles or makes some noise like air or freon is coming out. Very much like a tire, press in on the valve and it’ll let some out. Very good tips on this video!! If you’re watching this video and are not understanding the terminology, aren’t sure which line you’re to be adding the freon to, which lines you’re even going to be messing with, any level of doubt where you’re thinking you’re “lost” then it’s simple, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT. Just bite the bullet and take it to a shop. If you connect and the pressure is in the green like he said, DO NOT ADD MORE as freon isn’t the issue. That’s something else in the system and adding freon will not only NOT FIX your issue, it can add more problems and lead to a bigger bill when you inevitably do take it to a shop. Had a friend ruin his entire HVAC system because of doing that. I (and you should as well) know what type of freon to be using, which line is the low vs high pressure line (low is usually a thicker line and high pressure is usually a smaller line), know the HIGHLY suggested environment temperature to perform this in, make sure you’re outside or in a garage with proper ventilation, and definitely wear safety gear IE SAFTEY GLASSES AND GLOVES. If you’re injured, specially your eyes, you won’t be able to enjoy the reason you even did this repair in the first place, COLDER AC. Best of luck and DO YOUR RESEARCH!!
I wouldn't chance using a screw driver to test for freon, since you might damage the valve and/or spray freon on yourself. Spend the money on a can with a fill hose and before puncturing the can, attach the hose by itself to the LP side. You can read the pressure and release any air in the system when squeezing the trigger.
For those that don’t know there’s a pressure differential needed to actually charge your AC system. If you are in the green do not try to go higher into the green because for one the system pressure will be higher than your can so it won’t want to take anymore and two you need to leave some space for gas expansion so don’t try and over charge it. If your AC isn’t cooling first check to see if your condenser fan is on because it is what pulls the hot air out of the car and allows for your refrigerant to cool off before going through your vents. So sometimes you don’t need refrigerant but it’s mechanical. I just wanted to throw that out there.
Good callout. Thanks
How can you tell if the condenser fan is on or not
@@shericantor1031 well most cars come with two fans and one is for the radiator and the second for the condenser and it is wired in series with the compressor so it will only come on if the compressor turns on or vice versa. If the car gets up to temperature only one fan turns on. You can jump the fan/compressor at the fuse block but if the compressor is low on refrigerant or the fan switch, low pressure control switch is not working then it won’t turn on normally.
Condenser fan does not pull heat out of the car. The condenser fan is mounted to the condenser, which does as the name implies. It condenses freon. So, in order, for most cars: Low pressure freon gas is pulled into the compressor, which then compresses the low pressure freon gas into a high pressure freon gas. It then enters the condenser and the high pressure gas is then 'condensed' into a high pressure liquid, which then enters the dryer (on most systems), which cleans the liquid by removing garbage as well as moisture that may be present. Then the high pressure liquid freon enters the expansion valve which meters the freon and turns it into a low pressure liquid on the other side (the pressure release also is what creates the cold air so to speak. The low pressure liquid freon now enters the evaporator, which turns it into a low pressure gas freon. and the cycle continues.
Thanks for the advice, 👍
I can't tell you how refreshing and informative this video has been. I'm not a car person, I'm a computer person. I know how to do most "basic" things when it comes to the engine and maybe 1 or 2 more intermediate, but when it comes to recharging the a/c, I always get a little nervous. Almost every dang video on youtube that talks about recharging your a/c is like "Oh here's your can, here's the valve aaaand....poof done"...that didn't explain crap to me. This video is the FIRST video to explain the gauge, the doors and temp and proper use of the canister. Thank you so much, you have definitely earned a subscriber and follower here.
Great Video!
And don't forget the most ignored part in a vehicle....
The Cabin Filter!
Some negative comments regarding the use of those charging cans. I charged my truck last year using A/C pro and used the rest of the can this year. I have no problem buying a can every two years . Ice Cold Air for a year in a very hot climate. A cheap and easy fix.
If you have to buy it every two years you have a major leak.
Fix your leak. You are polluting the environment with toxic chemicals
You have a leak!
Are you mechanic or just an amateur like the one in the video?
@@joshuaperezhernandez8041 I do most of my mechanical work. I've been working on cars since I was 14. Based on my experience with many mechanics that do it for a living the term amateur could be used.
Most legit mechanics do not use ac cans that's why they have a ac reclaimer and recharging station so the system doesn't get over or under charged
Yes. And such reclaiming machines do test for sealer, and shops won't do anything more on the AC.
or manifolds and know how to read them like we do at my shop
He's trying to do it as an amateur car owner would do it.
@@gregrussell2692 a home gamer should be using a guage set. He's obsessed with the green area. You need to know the low pressure side and high pressure side pressures and cross reference to an ambient temperature chart if you're not doing a full reclaim and recharge.
@@gregrussell2692 I understand that. The title is misleading then.
Automotive technician here...
I've been doing a mobile service here in Houston. I have a small inverter generator, Yellow Jacket vacuum pump, a small recovery machine and recovery tank. I remove the freon, pull a vaccum for 30 minutes, and charge with virgin freon to factory specs. All for $90. The problem with AC PRO cans is that they contain alot of oil to push a small amount of freon into your system. That causes an over-oiling of the freon, that decreases the heat transfer and efficiency of the system. Which leads to a decreased performance of the ac.
My camry blows 28 degrees in the morning. In the Texas heat, my customers thank me for getting them cold.
Bro that’s a deal!
Do you have to add compressor oil after the recovery process?
@@DigitalExorcist usually no. But I do add a shot or 2 of tracer dye to the system, to help find leaks, if they call me back.
And you'd be surprised how many people fell that the $100 is too much to charge. The price of a 30lb r134 cylinder went from $109, to $389. So when I have to buy a new one, my price will increase to about $130-150
Also, oil doesn't compress like freon does. It'll kill the compressor if it's over oiled. Definitely seen that happen.
Do you have a contact number or a business website if I need to get AC service done with you?
This was 100% the best video on this I’ve seen. Simple to the point and in layman’s terms.
This is the best thorough vid tutorial on charging A/C !
5 years ago I was on an out of state road trip. A/c kept getting warmer and warmer. Auto shop said $1,200 to make it right. Didn’t have the bucks so I put in two cans of Freon,with the gauge and followed instructions on can. Held cold for a full year. I have added Freon each year for 5 years and the a/c continues to work. For $30 a year vs $1200 to fix I consider a win for the little guy.
Thats because you have a leak 🤦♂️
And it may just be a leaky needle
Same!
... try adding a stop-leak freon mix can and you should be good to go! I did...
Now there is a massive hole in the ozone layer.
Another great tip that I have learned is to watch for the lines near the dryer to start sweating and getting good and cold. If you keep adding much freon past that the cooling will reverse and the vent temps get warmer and some freon will have to be removed.
Another thing if adding freon only lasts a couple weeks or a month there is a leak that needs to be fixed.
Try soaping all the AC lines with the car off as static pressure should be close to 110psi and enough to cause bubbling.
Some very slow leaks require draining the system and pressuring with nitrogen at 200PSI to find them.
A leaking seal in an AC compressor shaft can be very hard to find because it only leaks under high pressure with the car running and producing 250 to 350 psi on the high side.
I had a compressor like that in my dump truck. It finally got to where charging the system wouldn't last all day. And I had soaped and pressure tested the line over and over finding nothing. So by process of elimination I determined it to be the compressor. That did fix it. Its been blowing ice cubes ever since I replaced it.
If you change any lines on the AC system you have to add a little of the correct Pag oil back into the system and vacuum it down to get any moisture out.
I haven't always replaced the dryer every time I empty out an AC system especially if I just put a new one on but it is recommended. A moisture saturated dryer can cause your AC to freeze at the orifice or expansion valve and quit cooling.
I agree with your comment and have done the same thing.
I've seen ac systems that you would have never thought that they should have worked, but cooled like a new system.
Good recomendations. Now about the receiver drier if the vehicle gets subject to a full vacuum no moisture will exist in the receiver drier or any other part of the A/C system thus making it completely safe to leave the receiver drier in place👍
200-250 on the high side max on humid days. any higher and your condenser fan is not performing.
ALWAYS change the drier
Using those "do it yourself "cans are perfectly fine. I have NEVER taken a vehicle to a mechanic just to have freon added.
They are fine as long as your only issue is low charge. Once you have other issues like a restriction or electrical problem they don’t do any good. Many times I’ve had customers bring me their car “empty or low” and it ended up being overcharged because they were relying on that low side gauge those kits come with and they just dumped everything in there. That’s where the high side gauge comes in handy. Everyone thinks ac repair is a ripoff but unfortunately it’s a complicated system. Unless everything is working fine and it is just low, the average diy guy just can’t figure it out. That’s how I make a living! 👍🏻
Where do you get Freon?
Of course you haven’t. Freon is R-12, and based on what you said, I’m 99.999999% sure you aren’t allowed to buy R-12 legally.
@@slowpoke96Z28 False, only licensed mechanics have restrictions.
The DIY can buy it when available with no problem.
See how that do it yourself can has the squeeze handle/connector on top of the can.? Is it ok to just buy a small can and add the squeeze handle/connector to the small 12 ounce can? And what if it say's it's already full (in the green area) but I keep putting more in untill I'm in the yellow area?
Yes this a great explanation but as a tech myself. The only thing i gotta say is make sure the can doesn't have sealant in it. That stuff will clog up your system and you need to do a flush and all that other stuff. Good stuff though it's good to help people. Thanks for sharing that.
I took auto mechanics yrs ago, the AC class was lacking in info so I went over to home HVAC and took a class there, they really explained it well. Superheat and subcool measurements, 2000 rpms, fan blowing on the front to simulate actual driving conditions. 15 to 20 degree drop. Ambient temp, interior temp, all these things come into play.
The first step BEFORE turning on the car is to hook up the gauge to make sure you have some pressure in the system. If no pressure you are putting refrigerant in a system that may have air and moisture in it and it needs to be evacuated and leak checked by a mechanic.
What happens if you were to replace an o-ring and got air into a system a non vacuum system
@@yankotactical1134 if you open any lines then the system needs to be vacuumed. The point of the vacuum is to remove the moisture so it doesn't turn to steam and turn your a/c system into a bomb
Depends on the type of system, and compressor oil used. Oxygen can react with the compressor oil, and start to form an acid eating the system from the inside out.
Biggest issue is immediately you can start to have restrictions from the oxygen you have within the system. You can start getting moisture which will freeze, and plug the system up.
Just take it to a real mechanic in the first place lol
@@billsmithingell7902 a steam bomb?
I live in South Florida, I can't believe there is a mechanic or any professional that knows anything that doesn't involve emptying a customer's wallet at warp speed.
Why i dont let anypne touch my cars with there meat beaters. Only i touch it aside from alimements and stuff i dont have 20 grand for the tool. Those use lazers now and have dummy resistant guidance via electronic screen
@@chickensfloat7427 that's my favorite. When customers think they know what they're doing because they have the internet and Scotty Kilmer. Alignment machines have had lasers for years and what tool costs $20k besides an alignment rack? Just stop.
Im a fleet technican for class 8 trucks, our alignment tool was a couple hundred bucks. Granted commercial vehicles are so much easier to work on the cars, but I have yet to see a 20k alignment machine. My old Ford dealer ship had a brand new top of the line Hunter alignment machine installed for 8k.
@@chickensfloat7427 there's also more to it than just following the screen. What if it pulls after you put everything in spec? What if you can't get it in spec? What if there's abnormal tire wear and it's in spec. Don't try to downplay a skill set that you don't have. My guess is that you change your own oil and pretend to do your own brakes.
@@sonicelectronic57 not to sound like a dick but. There's a lot of people calling themselves mechanics that are not? Passing a written test doesn't necessarily mean you're any good at the profession. And for every honest mechanic There's 10 dishonest one's waiting to take your money and deliver a vehicle worse than it was? Sad but very true. I know this to be fact because I spend everyday fixing vehicles that were taken to a dealership and not repaired or damaged from a poor job? Crappie part's are becoming a huge problem today also. But that being said I do run into my fair share of shadetree mechanics screw ups lol. There's never a shortage of repairs to do around this town to be sure. I'm impressed with south main auto on UA-cam though for his diagnostic skills 👌.
Been doin a/c for 35 years, there’s so many variables low gas is just the tip of the ice burg. The amount of situations that aren’t in text books is incredible
Exactly, some people just like to think that they are a professional and know more than someone else.
I still remember a lot of misinformation when going from r12 to the 134 refrigerant.
I had a guy come in for an a/c diag. Got in the car and indeed a/c was hot. Pulled it in and popped the hood. Looked at the condenser and there was a large plastic bag behind the grill plastered across the condenser. I removed the bag and low and behold, a/c was cold again. Showed the guy what happened, and didn't charge him.
@@archangel3237 My 134's been leaking out every winter for the past few years so i have the mech. fill it every May for $70, but now the passenger floorboard is getting wet and there's a swooshing sound around turns so i wonder if it's related to the freon leak or just a seperate a/c water leak.
That’s most likely a build up of condensation from the evaporator, normally it would drain out through a small hose, unblock it with some shop air, and check that it’s not coolant from the heater core , it would smell if it was was
Nice work! The only thing I do differently is I check the system by attaching the gauge without the can (just don’t squeeze the trigger)! No reason to break the seal on the can until you know that it’s low and needs recharging!
You said we must keep the can upright (so only gas not liquid refrigerant doesn't go directly into the system, I presume). However, when done you showed the can lying down. Is that an error?
which is point less and just takes more time
@@justinradford2957 If you don't need it, does the Auto shop take back an opened can?
@@garyruxton5226 That's called overstating things to look good for a camera. Then doing the direct opposite in real time.
@@garyruxton5226 there's no way he had the can upright. Hose is too short and there isn't enough space... That's why he skipped the part lol
Southern guys really know how to explain everything simplisticly and I can't believe most people actually could think any different.
differently
@allangoodman82 actually grammatically indifferent.
I never considered the stereotype, but yeah, I think southern guys -- despite having an accent that sounds a little different to my California ears-- tend to be really effective communicators and thorough in explaining things.
Exactly this was perfect.
Women down South are better Mechanics than Most Guys up North.... 😂😂😂❤
Been using this for over 20 years for many different vehicles.. works PERFECT!
"I have gauges in the vents." Thorough instrumentation is a Very Good Thing. There are things going on that our senses cannot detect--especially if we are not trained and experienced. Excellent video. I've done a few recharges, tried my best to follow the directions on the can and in the manual, and still learned a few good points--in the shade with all doors opened being two of the best. Thank you.
Don’t forget to use the meat thermometer in the passenger side vent.
Charging a car/truck's A/C is NOT rocket surgery. If you re-charge and it doesn't blow cold air, lick the tip of the connector and say "feces" three times in row, and then throw garlic over your LEFT shoulder (NOT right). Then, start the motor and do a somersault. This is the PROPER way to recharge your system. You'll need a snow bib in the summer while traveling in your vehicle. 👍Your Mom taught me that...
😄
That’s sooooo funny… and I’m gonna go try it now. Hold my beer…
Growing up our AC was rolling down the windows and driving fast. Nothing like 100 degree air blowing on your face
One of my uncles bought cars without AC! Guess whose car we didn't ride in during the sweltering hot summers. 😂
Seems now days the heat is what blows in instead of the cooler air
Seem ever car I had the ac didn't work just drove without ac now its getting way hot then it was then...
@@tennaj.5208I actually got my car's AC recharged for $70, and it feels amazing! They also checked for leaks. In my opinion, it’s worth the money because I cant stand driving two hours there and two hours back without AC anymore.
Trying using Groupon to see if there are any deals in your area.
Do you remember opening those vents, the vents by your feet.
It was like opening a wind tunnel.
"You must do this with car parked in shade"
Parks the car in direct sun light
I used the A/C Pro can for the first time the other day and it worked great. Easy and cheap.
THAT'S WAS AWESOME, SELF EXPLANATORY. DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER THAN THAT, THANXS
Thanks to this video I get customers that come to the shop “ my a/c dont work and I put 2 cans in there and still nothing “ lol I get about 3lbs free freon when I do the recovery 😂
You're getting free 3 lb of freon contaminated with air, moisture and oil acids caused by leaks and improper charging. And then I assume you are using it to put in your customers cars?
@@MrNiceCobra thats why a real A/c recovery machine has Filter… Just saying. And after the recovery it performs Vacuum.. and then re charge…
Or you going to tell me every time you recover a car you need to get rid of the 30lbs freon and buy a new one because that car could of had contaminated freon??
I’ll agree with you if you using a backyard style a/c recover lol
@@kordobez3978
Refrigerant recycle refers to the reduction of used refrigerant contaminants using devices that reduce oil, water, acidity, and particulates,” writes DuPont. “Recycle is usually a field or shop procedure with no analytical testing of refrigerant."
“Reclamation refers to the reprocessing of used refrigerants to ARI 700 specifications. Quality of reclaimed product is verified by chemical analysis.
“Reclamation offers advantages over onsite refrigerant recycling procedures,” DuPont says, “because these systems cannot guarantee complete removal of contaminants. Putting refrigerants that do not meet new product specifications back into expensive equipment may cause damage.”
Some refrigerant may not be reclaimed because it is too contaminated and should be despised.
So without analyzing it is game of guessing and hoping that refrigerant was cleaned enough . But on the other hand it's a job security ;)
Comments are hilarious all these 40 something years in the field criticizing but don’t have one video of showing you how to do it correctly.
Due to the diff brands of cars they are not all the same. A lot of the foreign cars need to be bled at the low side. This has cost ppl alotta money when they dump in a recharge the system says its full and its not its just full of hot air like most of the guys that make them there videos.
Directions say to keep the can straight up and down, occasionally turning the can 90 degrees and back up.
While connected to the low pressure line there wasn't enough slack for you to keep the can upright. Likely why you skipped the filling.
These manufacturers need to give you a longer hose!
We all would like a longer hose
I think it has to do with introducing it as a gas not liquid
This refrigerant is a blended gas. It must be installed in a liquid form or you will be pushing the lighter gas into the system. Which changes the super heat and boiling point properties of the refrigerant. This causes the system to it to function and cool properly.
@@keithslater7286- R134a is NOT a blended refrigerant, it can be introduced into the system as either a liquid or a gas, with caution exercised when charging as a liquid to prevent compressor damage.
Hands down the BEST tutorial I've seen on how to charge the AC system. NIA (Nates Interactive Auto) is an EXCELLENT instructor (I wish that I had teachers/instructors like him back in the day)!!! I have LIKED & Subscribed to NIA channel. Thank you for sharing your skills, tips and wisdom. Looking forward to viewing MORE of your UA-cam tutorials.
You're being sarcastic, right?
You shouldn't be playing around with those cans with a generic low side gauge. Just go spend $50 at harbor freight tools and buy an actual manifold set with low and high side gauges. All you're doing is introducing air into the system with that can since the hose wasn't purged. Don't take this guy's advice folks, just do it the correct way, at the very least purge the hose on the can. I understand that not everyone has a vacuum pump and a recovery machine at their disposal, but come on man.
Lol, yeah he was kinda a dick about the whole thing..
@Danbeater it's the only legal way to do it, that's all.
thank you was about to say but you saved me some time
If you take money to do ac work you are legally required to have a reclamation machine. Fines begin at 10k and go up. I worry about not knowing what the high side is. If you have a plugged oriface tube or stuck expansion valve you will cause real problems like a locked compressor or blown lines.
ive done it both ways with no difference... I just slap the can on now without drawing a vacuum
You explain things to where people understands what you're doing. Thank You for Sharing your Talent with the World. 2 thumbs up
Last Wednesday, July 3rd, I used my $7,000 R-134a A/C reclaim / recharge machine and pulled 36oz. of refrigerant out of a 2000 Wrangler. The customer used one of your spiffy DIY charge cans with the little gauge earlier that morning. His system takes only 20oz. Why did he come see me? His clutch burned up from too much refrigerant. This afternoon, he picked up his Wrangler from me with a new compressor, accumulator / drier, and orifice tube and left me with $1,100 cash. Keep making these videos. It makes real mechanics real money. Thank you.
I go to the Dealer, may not be cheap but they guarantee their work. Hiley Mazda Hurst Tx.
If you watched he clearly states to not use too much. So your comment is kind of useless lol you’re just saying what he said except being arrogant bc clearly he controls the mistakes of other people lol. Not everyone can afford going to the mechanic for every single thing and need a simple fix bc it works better for their current needs and budget. Not everyone falls in the same category. Being a douche bc you only see within your small realm of the world and think that’s how everyone should live, doesn’t make you look any better or smarter lol. Good day!
@@Itsjustalia_duhh Using a gauge to charge refrigerant instead of a scale is bad news all around. People using these do-it-yourself charge cans is 100% guesswork. Guesswork more often than not will, in the long run, cost much more money than doing it right the first time.
Before adding any refrigerant to your system maks sure your Schrader valves are tight there are 2 valves that can leak over time ,high and low pressure valves you can get a little screw driver at any auto parts store that has a slotted end to tighten both valves and before you tighten them get a spray bottle and dish soap water and spray the valves to see if they are leaking with the engine and ac running
Yep. I redid my whole ac system...compressor and all and it leaked. I was so upset. Low and behold one of the Schrader valves was leaking. Replaced that very cheap part and worked like a charm
@@DTB2.0 Look at the bright side, you now have new parts and knowledge.
🤣🤣🤣 I clicked this video bc the title said mechanics and I knew the hell this man just released on himself without knowing. Everybody is instantly and an expert. Let battle begin! 😂😂
As 40+yr mechanic I can confidently say that YT has once again shown that it knows more than everyone else🤦
Probably, as someone who works on these systems every day i can say confidently he showed us exactly how to not do this.
Don't forget to leave your back doors open 🤣😂🤣😝😝😝😜😳💩🤯
@@chriscoker7794 He should vac it down and charge it properly with a gauge set and not that leak sealer bullshit.
@@f-j-Services I've worked on AC system on automobiles for 40 plus years and still learn something new every now and then.
I also have cut trees professionally for 40 plus years. 4 different climbers could take down the same tree differently and all 4 could do it correctly and have been right. For each his own, but everyone isn't a good teacher.
I do plumbing and heating no AC at all just being around you fellas I knew this was incorrect. Zero reclaim
Thanks for the in-depth analysis of your video. I for one appreciate your demeanor and heed your advice. Excellent video.
Most mechanic shops are required by the EPA to use the proper refrigerant handling systems that are capable of capturing and recycling refrigerant from a vehicle. That can does not meet those requirements. But it is perfectly legal for the do it yourselfer to use them. But if it is done in a shop, they have to follow those regulations, be certified and the equipment to do so had to be certified.
I will add you should also use a pressure gauge to monitor the High pressure side as well. If the High side stays too Low (e.g. below 100 psi) or goes super high (above 300 psi) while adding Freon then there is a blockage / malfunction in the system and you should stop immediately. Failure to do so risks damaging the AC Compressor or something else in the system.
damn 300? Sounds like a ticking time bomb thats crazy.
@@curedham2963A normally-operating system's high-pressure side should read around 250-300psi. The systems are designed to operate in this pressure range.
You have bigger problems if your cars high side exceeds 300 PSI. That system is overcharged.
It also helps to use a refrigerant pressure / temperature chart because where you are in the green will greatly depend on the ambient temperature.
It makes all the difference. This video can easily misguide anyone. My pressure shows 80 psi but it’s 105 outside so it should read around 135psi
Jesus, finally someone with some sense in their brain.
I just read three different brands of AC cans. (All of them were 134a of course since that is all that is available on the market) None of them said anything about doing it in the shade or leaving doors open. Logic says the door reference is because you don't want your thermostat to turn off your AC in the middle of the procedure. I suppose the shade thing is about not letting the ambient temperature getting too hot since temp is a factor in the pressure shown on the gauge. Probably both good ideas to follow but definitely not universally recommended or required.
Great information for the general public. Not for professionals with full diagnostic machines.
Too bad it’s bad information
yes, don't over charge... but the best way is to Evacuate the system with vacuum pump and then use a scale to charge the exact amount. this guy is trying to help thumbs up
I like how you filled it to the upper end of the green after you said once it gets to the green stop.
You are right about many mechanics not knowing how to recharge AC properly, but this way is not the way to do it.
I guess I was just lucky but mine quit blowing cold, I bought the stuff , hooked it up , put three fourths of the can in, never looked at a guage, that was 10 years ago and the S10 still blows cold ❄️🤩👍
Same here in my 04 Silverado
@@realtalk37851 I couldn't believe it fixed the leak but it did 🤩
This is very thorough and very helpful thank you
Also you sound like my friend Jeremy, the way you speak tones and flexions all sound like him. Have a blessed day !
Thanks! I'm watching a lot of tutorial. No one mentioned the shade & doors points!
You shouldn't use those cans, you always want to use a set of gauges, you can't accurately charge your system without monitoring what the high side is doing as well. You need to see both low an high side pressures in order to accurately diagnose the problem on an ac system. These cans are marketed for taking money out of your pocket, an not resolving the underlying issue, which will eventually cost you more in the long run. Point is if you don't know about AC systems an still want to go the DIY route. Go by yourself a set of gauges an do some research on the internet, an learn on your own. Or save your money take the vehicle to a reputable mechanic, not a shade tree dude with all the doors open an a can of chiller.
recharged my system 16yrs ago.still going strong
I recharged my car with one these cans 5 or 6 years ago and she’s still blowin nice and cold.
Don't forget to leave your back doors open 🤣😂🤣😝😝😝😜😳💩🤯
He isn't diagnosing a problem. It's an instructional for recharging a system that doesn't have issues.
@@banjominer9682 because they contain sealer. No shop can ever hook their machine to your system again. Get a big hole that the sealer won’t seal. Then you need a whole AC system.
Professionals usually don't use small cans and definitely have a recycling or at least a recollection system.
yes, you can borrow the proper tools for free from auto parts stores and the coolant is even cheaper than these toy cans. so I dont know why people dont do the job correctly for the same price.
At 14 secs he says DON’T charge the AC in sun, then he charges it in the sun. He must be one of those mechanics he warned us about. 😂
Also says, at length, you must keep the can upright, then fills with it horizontal.
Thank you sir. This was the easiest and most practical video I’ve found so far.
❤ Thankfully we are able to buy freon in a can it's for us poor folks that cant afford to take it to a mechanic 😊 Great video
Dude it literally tells you how much r134a the system takes. You want the coldest possible? “Recover” the 134a and weigh it in. By weighing it in you can skip all that open door, in the shade crap and you put exactly what the car manufacturer wanted in it.
True, to a point. As long as someone hasn’t already add oil to the system. Too much oil and the system isn’t maximizing its use of Freon
If the system was low on refrigerant to begin with that means it has a leak and pulling a vacuum on it will suck air in that leak. Unless its a pinhole leak your taking chances of introducing non condensables into the system
He said weigh it.
6:57 you did not purge the atmosphere from the fill hose. You have introduced air and moisture to this system.
Line purge is considered deminimus release and allowed.
Even small amounts of atmosphere can become the early failure point of ac systems in a few years time.
Use air to blow out the low side port after you wipe it down, anything retained within that port gets pumped into the system.
These are critical points.
And cars have receiver dryers to catch moisture and contaminants. Whenever the system is opened, you must replace these components, evacuate the air with a vacuum pump, then recharge.
Got to love it. He is telling you the ultimate best correct way to charge your A.C. , but he is using a can from autozone without monitoring the high pressure side. LOL
😂 But make sure to open all the car doors! 😅
Those are not “air thermometers”. They are contact thermometers. You’re so so close , but the best I’ve seen so far. 👍
Dog it, I’m in big trouble, my car only has 2 doors, should I open the trunk and the glove box?
What those can gauges don't show you is the ambient tempature for the amount of freon you need. Low side of the green may work for 50-60⁰ Temps but not for 85⁰+ on a manifold set they show you what amount for what ambient Temps you need
Years ago I worked as heating and cooling tech and one of the things that sticks out is turning can upside down for liquid and right side up to just increase pressure.but that was using guard in both sides and removing all air first
I didn't know Joel Osteen would teach us something other than the gospel.
😂😂😂😂😂
@palipali4264 that wasn't the point
Joel teaches investing in his Kingdom 😂😂😂😂
@palipali4264💯💯💯💯
@@eddiepo6924you missed HIS point 🤡
As a certified technician If it's low there's a reason . There's a reason why it's low or empty take it to a shop The system doesn't know if it's air or refrigerate in the system get it done right
People are idiots.
Thanks for making this video. Very informative. I followed all your steps and saved a bunch of money 😂 Thx again!
Wow! Thanks! It worked! Guage was barely in the green (which read filled) no blue on my guage .. filled to the higher end of the green and working great. 😊
This would be a good time to check the cabin air filters also good video.
I laughed so hard when he showed the MEAT thermometer that was so far off the scale and said "And this one... well it's probably not the best".
I certainly appreciate the good tips though!
Seems like the hose is way too short to allow the can to be vertical.
They make the hose short so if it blows off it won't slap you in the face.
I've charged em with the can upside down longer than the kid here has been alive. Do give it a shake gently back and forth as you charge.
"Make sure the can is vertical." Lays can sideways...🙄
Thank you for this extremely useful/informative instructional video good sir. You're a gentleman and a scholar and there aren't many of us left.
"You must perform this in the shade! It says so right on the can!"
Proceeds to charge it in direct sunlight.
Lmao just teasing. But just out of curiosity, why does it matter if you do it in the shade? Is it because the sunlight can heat up the can and mess with your pressure readings? Also why does it matter if the doors are all open? I can't come up with a reason for that one. Thanks for the video!
Any real mechanic uses an a/c machine. Besides that I love it when people get on UA-cam and try to act like experts, really cracks me up.
Most mechanics are dishonest and will take advantage of people!
I hear that😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
Remember to keep the can straight up and down. like he said. Not sideways like he did.
yup, you want only the gas to go in the low side.....high side is for liquid
you can shake the can but dont shake it too far sideways
He was probably forced to lay the can on its side because of (1) the very short hose that came with the can, and (2) the tight location of the low side tap. This is one of the drawbacks of using an R-134A container/valve/hose combination type canister rather than the preferred method of using a standard R-134A can (or tank) and separate hoses and gauges. Doing any work, especially AC work, as a DIYer can be problematic if you don't have the right tools for the job.
I'm under the impression no one should be messing with their refrigerant unless they know what they are doing. I've been in the refrigeration business for over a decade now and I've never once "topped off" a system. I've pulled gas in and out to account for ambient temp but not any other time unless a tech didn't know his head from his ass. Low refrigerant always indicates leak if all other conditions are satisfactory.
That's been my experience
Thank you for the video I’m glad I ran across this I’ve been riding around in a hot car going to go to the store and charge up my system thank you
Quite right.
Yes and no... unless there's a clear leak or somthing you can find chances are the compressor shaft seal is leaking.. I'm not super familiar with 609 systems but idk if that's servicable or you'd have to change the compressor? But if its not topping off might be the best fix if it's a small enough leak. Otherwise removing gas and recharging is just going to cause you to introduce noncondensibles during the evacuation.
I have an 07 that's never been serviced. It still works but needs a refresh.
I use manifold gauges on high & low side when charging. The gauges help pinpoint a problem, if there is one. Using a temperature/ pressure chart is an effective guide in dialing in the correct pressures for maximum cooling/ taking into account the ambient temperature. Remember to bleed off just a small amount of refrigerant from the hoses as you are connecting the lines, to avoid getting air into the system. And NEVER, EVER, charge through the high side! This could be fatal.
You can charge through the high side. Liquid only, though.
@@elgoog7830 How? What if your high side has more pressure than the can?
@@zekemadjar1966
Open the high side side, while the can is upside down and while vehicle is running. Slowly let it, or you'll jam up the compressor. And if you're putting a lot in, obviously monitor the weight.
It's a much quicker process, for large amounts.
I've even put liquid in the low side(very small amounts though).
Edit: to answer your question about can pressure, it should suck it into the system, while the vehicle is running(?).
I wish we could post pictures, I'd show you what the exact procedure is, if I could post a picture, from the page of a manual, from an automotive technical institute/college(Universal Technical institute). I haven't worked on cars in some years and haven't had the chance to really test this out, just recently found this info and haven't had a big enough job that I could try it out on. However, years and years ago, I've seen a couple other techs do it and at the time, never really understood what they were doing, but I have seen it done.
@@elgoog7830 the high side is the discharge and the low side is suction. That's why it goes in through the low side. It's like trying to push water back in the faucet with it wide open!
@@zeke112964
I understand. Like I said though...
Seen it, read it.. obviously possible. Since I haven't messed with it, and don't have the manual in front of me, technicalities are likely missing.
And again, if I could post a picture of the manual.
Look people. It's fundamental. It's VERY EASY to charge an ac system. You can open a couple of doors yes. Put your ac on "Normal" not recirculate or "Max" setting. Connect the low side ( which is what comes with the recharge kit) start the car, turn on the ac, go back to the bottle and open it,.. the ac clutch should come on (if everything is working properly), it should start charging ALL BY ITSELF!! really. feel the big aluminium line coming out of your firewall.. if you can, if not then just a bit further down. You'll feel the line getting a bit colder gradually.. then suddenly it will get snapping cold. Thats it. its charged. the evaporator is flooded. Done. Turn the bottle off and disconnect. Always put the plastic cap back.
Most unselfish video I have seen! Thanks!!!!
There's a TON of incorrect information in this video, and very little that is correct. Whole thing is a guess that the system is low on refrigerant; high side pressures can help a little with that, but only real way is to recover and weigh the refrigerant - like with real shop equipment. NEVER use any sealer or refrigerant containing sealer, and use a real set of gauges.
Why not use a sealer? Is the "Stop Leak" / ID Stop Leak what you're talking about?
@@AikidoTubeSock Correct; any sealer is bad, and can ruin the system.
@@AikidoTubeSock anything inside an AC system other then the correct PAG oil and correct AC refrigerant is a contaminate. Sealer plugs condensers and evaporators and ruins ac machines ! Also, its what hacks do! fix it right its not that hard
This guy needs to listen to Scotty Kilmer or stop being a pretender!
@@kolinreichstein3399When your on a budget the enviro synthetic works just fine,some dont have the 1000+ too pay a shop ,but you cant mix products ,thats were the DIY people are running into problems ,i have used this stuff for over 30yrs. in ag equipment ,cars trucks ,window and central ac;s fridges and freezers ,no system failers ever, enviro sealer is compatable with enviro coolant and compresser oil,usally the compresser seals dry out after 7 to 10 years or a micro weep in flex lines and you loose some charge and the low pressure saftey switch kicks in,or the compresser is running and it only makes slightly cool air. Most of the time 1 can of sealer and proper amount of refrigerent will cure the problem,all systems are stamped with the coolant fill weight and type ,and you can do that precisely with a kitchen digitial scale,if you still have a leak without using a dye test ,it smells like a christmas tree and will leave an yellow oily residue ,easy to pin point the the leak from,you need to pull a vachum and recharge the system when your sure any leaks are fixed ,you can try this your self over 25 times compared to taking it in to a shop,and if you have a 1234 system,the coolant cost alone can be over 2000 bucks now for a factory charge ,compared to enviro synthetic at 60, i did a buddys newer charger last summer,and was shocked at what they wanted for the refrigerant alone,it was only low,so we pulled a vachum added sealant and charged it ,its run a year now no problems and holding its pressure,be sure with chrysler products to use the right compresser oil ,or compresser will fail ,i belive they use a mineral based oil which doesnt mix with conventional compresser oil.
Cool thanks for the tips , not everyone has access to a industrial grade machine so for those of us that have to use cans this is useful
proper tools are cheap and you can do this the mechanic way and save 1000s in the long run. if your car is only worth $500, then it might be ok to use these toys that come from walmart. I wouldn't destroy a car with these if the car is worth more than $500
First and foremost your ac is a sealed system so you shouldn’t have to top off. This works if your in a pinch but remember if your low, there is a leak somewhere.
A few things to remember. If the expansion valve or orifice tube is clogged or stuck you could keep adding refrigerant to the low side suction and it may only show up on the high side, so without a manifold gauge you could still be overcharging and not know it if you are using a low port pressure gauge only.
Normally, after all the refrigerant is retrieved, and repairs made, I will vacuum for a few minutes then let it sit at -30hg for at least 30 minutes to make sure it is still holding the same vacuum. Then I’ll vacuum for at least another 30-45 min at get all the moisture out. With the vehicle running and ac on, I’ll purge the air in the center vacuum line until refrigerant comes out and then open the low side to let in said refrigerant which is measured by weight (not the low side pressure). Again, do you have to do this using a manifold and vacuum or an ac machine… not really, your just getting all the moisture out and extending the service life of the compressor and the rest of the ac system.
It is NOT sealed to the point that it prevents any amount from leaking out. ALL seals on any moving shaft do leak ever so slightly, so in time even a system that has never experienced a rupture or puncture WILL leak down enough that it can need a recharge.
But you believe whatever you want because I am sure you THINK you know it all.
Very informative.
I'd like to suggest that the quickest way to tell if the freon is actually going into the system is that the can will almost immediately become cold to the touch. Often even developing frost. Therefore, for safety reasons, in addition to safety glasses, a heavier pair of gloves should be worn. This is in case the fitting or the a/c hose begin to leak. Which could potentially cause frostbite.
To help speed the process along, take a small plastic bucket, and fill it to at least half the height of the freon can, with Warm, not hot water. Place the Cold can of freon in the Warm water. This will reduce the amount of time it takes for the freon to enter the cars a/c system.
Also, keep a couple of the windows or doors of the car open. This is for a couple of reasons. 1st: So you can quickly tell by feel, when the air is getting colder. 2nd: if for some reason there is an internal leak in the evaporator, you're less likely to breathe in any of the freon gas that could possibly build up, with the car doors & windows closed.
Hopefully, these suggestions help to make your experience safe & easier. Cheers!
You did an excellent job in explaining, and I mean thoroughly the correct process to recharge an ac system. Way to go, I appreciate your video.
I missed the part where you vac down your AC unit before adding refrigerant
This is a at home remedy. 99.9 % of folks don't have a vacuum system at home to do this..you would only use this can for a know leaky system.
you only need to vac the system if it was worked on and fully discharged due to replacing a compressor or condenser or any other maintenance that required a full discharge of refrigerate. it dont need vacuumed if your just adding.
You really need to know what the high side pressure is too, there can be a blockage or an airflow issue through the condenser while the low side is below threshold & the high side way over pressure.
Yes yes but involving specifics kind of takes away from the hope that a major problem can be fixed real quick, doesn’t it? It’ll work almost half the time just like this. I think people that buy these cans are ready to write it off if the quick fix doesn’t work. If not then you’re absolutely right, and it can even cause more damage and cost them more money in the long run.
@Terrence Carbuncle with the addition of Adjacent Dimension Conflabulator technology, repairs will only get more complicated from here
@Terrence Carbuncle I agree, these cans are used for quick recharge. Not hard. But what hurts is when it's a problem somewhere else, high side or condenser or block tubing & because we can't tell, we continue to fill & it's causing a problem. We just need to understand how the system fills & work.
Is there a port for the high side somewhere as well?
@@cassiearchey yes, there's a high & low port both. The Walmart cans you get will only connect to the low side. If there's a blockage or an air flow restriction through the condenser it could have extremely high pressures & you'll never know it if you're only seeing the low side pressure.
Been a dealer tech for 44yrs thank you for the laugh! First thing I thought of forest gump!
Wow , you were actually serous about the doors 😂😂😂
a real mechanic vacuums the system out and puts in the proper amount
I'd like to add those gauges your using are unreliable. They can says have doors open because of fumes it makes no difference in the charging process.
Gauge kits with the hoses are available on Amazon. I’ve been doing my own A/C for 25 years. The proper tools don’t cost much, including the evacuation pump I just bought a few weeks ago.
@@codycole3202 link to gauge kit?
@@codycole3202 link to evacuation pump?
I would like to start recharging my ac but dont know where/how to start so any diy tutorial that shows ALL PROPER STEPS?
@@codycole3202 harbor freight has a cheap vac but you'll need a decent air compressor to use it
@@codycole3202 harbor freight has a cheap vac but you'll need a decent air compressor to use it
Don't forget to wear your safety goggles when working with Freon.
You don't want to freeze your eyeballs.
A/C systems? In my experience, it's a wonder that most so-called mechanics can wipe their own ass.
@olddeadleadfoot
BINGO. You have a better chance of those hacks destroying more things than fixing your AC system. Finding a competent and honest mechanic is like finding the needle in a haystack.
I’ve seen numerous times people use the ‘stop leak’ in their a/c systems. I have made thousands of dollars flushing systems and replacing orffce tubes from this wonderful product.
Great videos Brudda best information I’ve seen couldn’t said it any better 1000 percent
It's technically illegal to purge refrigerant but in all honesty I don't know about y'all but idgaf.
You take a pocket knife or something and push the release nob inside the valve. The valve for the low pressure point is literally like a tire stem.
Just let a little out. Save time and money.
Yeah, it's illegal, but half the planet would have to purge their AC at the same time. Even then, I doubt it would show any significant value. This warning is basically just for all the window lickers that like to turn molehills into mountains. Hell, you ever read the side of a 2L bottle of soda pop that states; " Aim away from face - contents under pressure" ? Damn, they gotta take all the fun outta everything.
The government has R12 monitors located everywhere in the country including airborne drones so they can triangulate the location of anyone illegal releasing R12 from their AC system. Homeland Security has highly trained SWAT squads standing by to immediately respond and slap the offender on the wrist if they catch them in the act.
@@Joe_Blo 😂
You can also put the hose on the valve without the can and pull the trigger. Hold ya breath lol
@@Joe_Blo 😁😆😂🤣🥲
To recharge your system properly you remove all freon from the system put into a vacuum for 30 minutes and then you charge the system with the correct amount of freon.
AND THE COMPRESSOR OIL !
Easiest way to change a system properly is to recover the charge “ if any” . Pull an evacuation and charge the system using a scale using a real manifold set and having your suction side and head pressure hoses hooked up taking in consideration ambient temperature 🤷🏻♂️
So basically when in doubt read the directions. Good video.
Great job, thank you. Is it true the AC should NEVER lose refrigerant unless it has a leak that should be repaired?
High side of the green side might be fine, depending on your model...the gauge isn't just colored, it has numbers. It's usually not hard to Google and find the capacity of your vehicle.
I also see where it says "STOPS LEAKS" on the can. That means it has stop leak in it which clogs the orifice tube and other components completely destroying your ac system. The only proper way to recharge a system is to reclaim the refrigerant, vacuum test the system, add oil if needed (depending on how much was removed from the reclaim), and refill to proper specification using a weighted machine. This freon in a can is snake oil.
No it isn't. I refilled my Civic with one of these... worked fine for years until I sold the car. HVAC techs can buy canned sealant commercially for old systems not worth major repairs. If nobody bought it they wouldn't sell it so somebody uses it. If a vacuum is pulled you're supposed to weigh in the initial charge then adjust from there using a chart.
@@equid0x you technically fucked over whoever bought your car.
Beware, charge your a/c in the shade or in the evening, then when you move it to a sunny area the high pressure may go too high creating an overcharge or dangerously high pressure. You really should never charge your a/c without gouges or not being able to monitor the high side.
you said that you needed to hold the can at 12 o'clock and shake back and forth, but with a short hose how did you do that? You didn't show how you charged it, only that it was full and laying on its side.