I'm a shade tree mechanic, in my experience the jump battery, multi meter, grinder wheel are very useful tools to have. I would add to the list, magnet/retriever tools, not expensive but very handy when you drop a bolt or nut in a in accessible spot. Headache saver for sure.
I agree I have a flexible push button claw grabber with a magnet and it saves me headaches all the time. I also have some rare earth magnets I can electrical tape to a dowel or long rod and pick up very heavy things just doesn't work well in close quarters because it likes to stick to anything it gets close to.
Great list. Here's some small tools that go a long way: -telescoping magnet -pick tools -ratcheting wrenches -mechanic telescoping mirror -small grab tool -c clamp -vice grips
I remember buying Pick Tools at Harbor Freight thinking why am I buying these? Well, they have been so useful especially when changing Oil Filter Housing Gaskets on my Toyota Avalon!
There is nothing special about a Fluke meter. The ONLY reason the government, including the military, uses them, is because they literally based all their specifications on them, and Fluke has stuck to those specifications, because they are making a fortune from it. My favorite multimeter is a 30+ year old AW Sperry clamp on type.
Actually a major reason for the Government's use of Fluke is because Fluke will calibrate it for you, which is often a Government Requirement. Granted on most work I use one of my many $3 Harbor Freight Multi-Meters. But when it is important, I use my Fluke@@geraldscott4302
The more modern version of a torch I support this as it works better at targeting the nut and or bolt. One thing is the torch can make steel liquid if needed
Scanner - For advanced DIY, Launch has the Elite x431 that is loaded by auto brand. It has the full 2 way communications and module support in including test activation. You can add other brands if needed, so for an example, I have VW + Mercedes library for the cars we have at home. No yearly subscription. Having a limited library saves a lot of money yet keeping performance.
Must have for me: -10mm wrench -10mm socket -10mm racket wrench -10mm crows foot -Impact (that accepts a 10mm socket) -10mm impact swivel -1/2 right angle impact (that accepts a 10mm) -10mm Irwin extractor -10mm tap and die
As an older guy the battery powered tools are a Godsend! I recently changed the clutch on my Mk1 VW Jetta. My 20V mini-impact gun made bolting and unbolting the transaxle a breeze. It would've been a nightmare with a ratchet wrench. Even air tools are a pain, what with the hose and the air-blasts and the noise and wait times of the compressor. I couldn't imagine doing any work without my battery powered impact tools. The days of hand-ratcheting nuts and bolts are over!
I haven't found a bolt that a long enough breaker bar won't loosen. Just what are the torque specs on those bolts? I can put 100 lb.ft. of torque on a bolt with a 12" ratchet.
I managed to snag the kobalt right angle impact when it was @ $99. It's great, and man an compact-head 3/8 extended electric ratchet is truly one of the best tools ever.
Those spring clamp pliers are one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of saving time and headaches, and scraped up knuckles and bent radiator fins
One of the things I have learned from you videos is to find a trustworthy mechanic and to follow his advice. I have found a good one by word of mouth and am quite happy. I am older and arthritic so I can no longer do my own work. I would rather spend money on my 1988 vehicle than purchase a new one that costs more than my first 3 homes combined. I am lucky to live in Arizona where I do not have to worry about rust.
Another great video, thank you. As an old retired auto tech of 42 years, 32 of them as a shop owner with ASE certifications and employees I would like to add what I think is the most important tool. That’s the one between your ears. A good basic understanding of physics, basic electronics, the application of logic and how to access information is very important. You can have a wonderfully skilled set of hands but without knowledge and understanding they won’t do you any good. Also if you’re planning to open a shop add business classes to the mix. And just a last comment. Electric power tools are getting better and better and very handy. But when it comes to tightening something, always recheck it with a hand tool to make sure. I’ve seen to many oops come back. 😊😊
Tools are a real problem. The more you have, the more you need. I found that staying out of tool shops helpful. Cordless, high torque drivers are a blessing. You need a couple of those. Thanks for an absolutely fantastic post. Off to the shop to buy a new compressor.
A piece of brake line in a rubber hose is one of the best stethoscopes I've used, does both jobs is free and flexible, multi purpose, blow gun extension
Man, I don't know what I would replace with it but I feel a serpentine belt tensioner tool should have been on the list. Especially with how tight many cars are to get to the tensioner.
Oh, that's easy! Just take the end of a breaker bar after you snapped it off trying to loosen a CV Axle-nut and just weld it to a 1/8th inch thick strip of flat steel; problem solved!
I almost didn't watch this! What could I possibly still learn after 50 years turning a wrench? Well I picked up two new items for my toolbox!! I got the hose clamp tool and the relay jumper. Super useful! Thank you!
I just discovered the power probe last year after hearing the wizard talk about it before. It made a troubleshooting job so easy it was unbelievable. Saved me many hours of time not needing a helper. I got it on amazon in one day for way less than even harbor freights price. I forgot to use the wizards link though. Sorry.
You know car wizard, this is exactly the content that makes me appreciate you, you want to share your knowledge with others, i respect that a lot, keep up the good work man
I purchased my compressor and the beginning of my air tools about 20 years ago. I like the battery tools, and have one long reach rachet, but I can't justify the cost for the amount of use they would get.
Second place has to go to the angle grinder. I used to absolutely hate working on exhaust systems until my dad bought one… what a timesaver! You aren’t going to reuse the hardware, pipes, or mufflers, so just cut it all off and get it done so you can connect the new exhaust!
An alternative to the power probe is the TOPDON version that also has an oscilloscope. That scope function is brilliant for chasing intermittent signal drops in ignition modules and injectors when you can see what's happening. It was my best tool purchase last year.
Milwaukee Fuel battery powered tools are great but the best I've used are Hilti. They do cost an arm and a leg but the batteries charge up faster than any other brand, their capabilities are unmatched and although I've never experienced one breaking but if they do Hilti replace them with new no questions asked unless it's a case of perfectly obvious abuse like dropping the tool into sea water and leaving it there for some time. Others we used that worked fine were Bosch blue, Makita, AEG and Hitachi.
I've have been a mechanic for years specializing in electrical repairs. Long before they came out with relay testers I took 2 old relays and on one I put a push button on it to manual activate the circuit. On the other I put 2 LEDs on it. One red and one green to test to light up if it has power and activated
One tool i keep in my tool box is a pair or several pairs of locking hemostats (like used in surgery)..one pair i have magnetized so if i drop a bolt or nut down somewhere i can easily retrive it...that thing has saved my bacon more than once
Been using the Milwaukee 12 volt tools for twenty years now. Does just about everything but the last turn. Reliable and plenty strong for most all of my woodworking. Judging from that their 18 volt stuff is doubtless the best.
Agree about the angle grinder except a caution should be given to those unfamiliar. A guard should be included as the cut off wheel will explode and send pieces everywhere.
I had a guard on mine and a disk exploded. Screwed up my finger a little bit but those flying pieces of disk would have hit me right in the face without the guard on.
Yes, absolutely, thank you! Personally I never use the guard anymore and always take it off when I get a new grinder, but I have 25 yrs (+) of experience under my belt so I don't really need one and know how to deal with it, but if yer new, absolutely, yes! Also, I would like to note that with that experience comes enough wisdom to still use a face shield every time!
Somehow this reminds me of the Mastercard commercial with MacGyver fixing a 18 Wheeler with a pair of tweezers, a Swiss army knife and a roll of ducttape
If OBD2 is all you care about, just get one of those $20 dongles that bluetooth or wifi links to your phone, then torque or whichever other app you find most useful for your make of vehicle.
Well thats a warm and fuzzy feeling, I looked at the tools and had all but the clamp pliers, and did buy a set of those hose clamp pliers) Yeah, I'm old my impact wrench is pneumatic but I rarely use it that much and its good enough for my purposes. Pretty good at DC electrics and just amazing how many good mechanics apparently have no idea of what to do with wires. I do like the plug in relays but I can get buy with my switch with alligator clips (and a little green LED bulb that says its got juice).
While I like this but the jump pack, as a tow truck driver I run the noco boost pro gb150, can't beat it lithium batteries so can be below 0 no problem we recently had -60 weather having 3000amps really helped
Actually, that geiger counter could be very useful, for Japanese imports. Seriously there have been a number of instances around the world where Japanese import cars have turned out to be highly radioactive. Some unscroupulous guys had been pulling cars, mainly exotics and rarities, out of the Fukushima prefecture and re registering to another prefecture, then exporting them.
My uncle worked with a recycling company for a few years and they had an incident where scrap metal from Russia had a high level radiation source embedded in the scrap. He got heavily exposed before it was detected and a decade later he developed multiple cancers. The health authorities seriously messed up and he was informed only 5 years after the first detection. Against all odds he survived the treatments and lives a full life today.
Just because you parked your car in Fukushima doesn’t mean it’s going to be a significant source of radiation contamination, assuming you washed it (dust and all that.) Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings. It doesn’t work like that. So much concern about the release of water from that incident. The Pacific Ocean is a very big drink of water, heh. Still, having a Geiger counter is _never_ a bad idea.
@@declanfarberUnfortunately, you would appear to have a hollywood movie grasp of nuclear radiation. It's not as simple as just washing radioactive dust off, that's why there are a half a dozen or so Bradley fighting vehicles shipped back and buried in Arizona, they were damaged in friendly fire incidents involving DU ammunition in Iraq. When it is too difficut and expensive to successfully decontaminate and repair a multi million dollar military vehicle I don't think anyone is going to decontaminate a Datsun, especially considering the contaminating isotopes at Fukushima were orders of magnitude more dangerous than those produced by DU - we're talking cesium and cobalt. As for 'Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings.' ...the contamination was widespread, to this day an 800 sqkm exclusion zone exists with only limited access.
So as a "boomer" who has only used air tools, it doesnt seem like a "long, long time ago". I still use them . Battery powered are good for in the mobile toolbox. And I have an impact wrench and angle grinder in that box. But Im 100% air power in my shop. More torque than electric too. And if you do any body work, its a must have. My tire changer doesnt run on batteries either., so theres that too.
Yeah, those huge $5,000-$6,000 3 phase air compressors are best used for large scale tire installation (think multiple bays of cars or trucks at 4-6 tires per vehicle or even more if you’re talking heavy duty trucks) but I myself have a small 20 gallon compressor that meets all of my needs for the home garage.
It was a long long time ago in the sense that you have to consider not today but the year that the decision was made to get the air compressor and tools for it. Continuing to use what you have if it works for you, is just common sense. You really don't need more torque than modern battery powered impact wrenches can provide. Granted some may have a h arder time fitting in tight spaces.
My favorite tool currently is my electric ratchet. I’m 6 years into building my own cars & it’s always cool when I find a new tool I can use on a regular
I really like my MK808ts, it's done everything I need so far with my BMW's. I purchased the BT506 battery diagnostic add on tool that works with it, haven't tried anything with TPMS programming. Before the subscription expired in 2023 I downloaded as many popular models into the device as I could so at least diagnose everything up to that point
I am stocking up on Milwaukee tools currently. I'd say the 3/8" Right Angle Impact, 1/2" stubby impact, and 3/8" impact ratchet are my most used. As well i bought a diag tool, an Xtool D8. Does everything I currently need it to for cars, will be upgrading to a D9HD soon. Will definitely look at your amazon list and keep stocking up. Thanks for the recommendations on must haves.
One thing I would recommend for your shop since you have a fairly large shop is picknup a used walk behind floor scrubber like they use at Costco, Grocery stores. You can clean the whole shop in half hour and better than just sweeping or mopping the floor will do. We have two Tennant scrubbers at our shop and we work on heavy equipment that bring in lots of dirt.
I used to deliver parts to shops for a national auto parts store chain. One shop, specializing in diesels, had a floor machine and they used it frequently. That was an amazing shop to walk into. It almost looked like the waxed the floor, and maybe they did.
Power tools have changed craftsmanship for the better. I've been a Dewalt user since the 14.4 volt were introduced. Now I'm a 20 volt user with about a dozen tools in my shop. Besides The drills, the impact tools and the cutoff tools, the bandsaw, the grease gun and the new power socket are my must haves.
Dave, thanks to your recommending Mountain reversible ratcheting wrenches with flexible heads in an earlier video, I was able to loosen the bolt from hell: a 15 mm fastener behind the back of the intake manifold on my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. It's been called the hardest part of the job of replacing the intake manifold on that car. What a wonderful feeling when I got the head around that sucker and it cracked loose. The sound of success. Thanks for the tip!
Awesome video! thanks! I've always been a gear head. I enjoy working on my project car. But, that is only 1 of 4 cars in the family that I have to maintain and repair. My newest car is 14 years old and had 250k miles on it. So, I can get pretty bust keeping up with them in addition to a crazy busy schedule. As we all know, there is never a convenient time to have a car break down or need repair work. I have 4 of the 10 on this list. I plan on buying 9 more of them after seeing this video an dhow much time they save when you're trying to fix a car on a deadline. Or just to make your time more productive. So, thanks again Wizard! Oh, you should consider adding the R51 Pathfinder to the list of good high mileage cars!
Love the content Wizard! I am 43 and 20 year tech now I am solo in the sticks and still run all on air I can't justify it as all my air stuff works great. I do have some electric but prefer air. Great video!
Once they all start to fail a bit, and arent as strong as you thought they are, youll notice. My grandpa swore by his air for so long, till one day He goes to put a wheel on, and hammers the shit out of it. I came by and loosened that lug by hand... Just two fingers... He said "WT FLYING FUCK" and thrw it in the trash and subsequently bought battery tools. They work when they work but when they dont.... its hard ot notice without double checking stuff. NTB / Tire king has been sued for wheels falling off due to people using air tools and never checking with a torque wrench... because they overly trusted that air tool...
My number 11, a two post or four post lift. Yes, its a very special piece of equipment but if you have the overhead space and the floor loading capability its worth every penny. I'm in my 70's and full of arthritis so getting down on a creeper under a car isn't going to happen for me. I still seek the help of a professional occasionally but I'm able to maintain my vehicles for 90% of our maintenance needs. My lift was my retirement gift to myself eight years ago.
10 essential tools plus the pile of odds and ends that’s been accumulating the last 20 years thinking this bolt, screw, or part will come in handy one day 😅
High flow compressed air still used in body shops. But, for auto mechanics impact drivers (up to 1/2 inch drive), bit drivers, grinder wheels, cutting wheels, and a lot more, air is dead. Electric power tools are just easier and faster than air tools. Obviously you do not have a hose to move around, but the real advantage is if you set up several electric drivers to do specific things in the repair, you are not swapping the hose or attachments. Grab and go. I would have to agree the Fluke DMMs are the meter of choice for automotive troubleshooting. I have an older Fluke 87 which is an excellent automotive DMM. I have a PP4 Circuit Tester which is a versatile tool, but I actually use my Fluke 87 DMM more often with different load resistors (functions like a bulb load tester without the bulb), which act like the power probe supplying a current path to ground or +12VDC power. The Fluke 87 has more resolution than the PP4 and I pick the appropriate load (I use five different values (Ohm): 6.8, 10, 22, 100, 1000) for the test being performed. I also like the Fluke DMM probes and other attachments which use shrouded banana jacks and plugs, especially stacking shrouded jacks. I just think the banana probes are more versatile and trust worthy than the PP4 tip with an attachment. I guess I am just more confident in the DMM probe accessories. I primarily use Fluke and Pomona test leads, and when I make my own test leads I use Pomona materials.
Just got my mid-rise installed (which involved unboxing, connecting lines filling with hydraulic fluid, and plugging in. No concrete work, unpack and work. It's a back saver. I can already tell. 😅
If you can't fit a lift, don't have the space, do mostly restoration work or don't own the building, get a pair of identical professional grade trolley jacks. That way you can quickly and safely lift one end of the car at a time...
Been working on our cars for over 30 yrs. I still enjoy using air tools. (They are Powerful, inexpensive, very dependable, low maintenance and takes up less space. I thought of some other tools that might come in handy: 1) Head led light. Nothing like being able to use both hands and shine the light where your looking. 2) Under hood led light. Lights up the entire engine bay when working. 3) Small magnetic led light 4) Welder 5) Plasma cutter 6) Floor creeper for those of us that don't have a lift. 7) Stubby air wrench. Great getting into those small spaces. 8) Hand wrench with an extendable handle, for more torque. 9) Bolt extractor set.
The list is endless.. budget seems to play a big part.. now we have all this cheap chinesium stuff to add confusion to the mix.. nothing like a box full of modified spanners n sockets to get the job done..😂😂
Geiger counters are actually very useful for inspecting Chinese parts, because you don’t know where they got the metal to build them. This is a thing, particularly with machine tools in the past. It’s gotten better now that they have radiation detectors at some of the major shipping ports (but I don’t know how effective those would be for smaller items and random contamination.)
1:16 I work in a potash refinery. It’s very similar to a salt mine. We use Milwaukee fuel impacts. They really impress me with the power and durability.
Love the new Milwaukee tools. Total game changer. The only air tools I care to use or find the need for anymore in the automotive sector are air hammers and tire inflators and thats really it.
I like the electric tools a lot. I’m 81 and only work on my 2000 Echo and 97 Corolla which doesn’t even have an OEBD port just a port under the hood where jump pins and read blink codes. The jumper wire costs less than a penny. I do have a Fluke 117 about the same as you 115, but mostly just sockets and hand tools that go back to the 60s. Interesting what you have to have in a modern shop.
If it goes into a grease gun, I always use the red water resistant grease from Napa. As for wheel bearings, I use the type for disk brakes regardless of if the bearings need the high temp version. As for spray grease, the red water resistant grease in a spray can. And lastly, I use the CV Joint grease that came with the CV joints or boot kits...
I’ve spent 30 years wrenching. I like all the tools you mentioned, but you forgot the most important and valuable tool of all. The pocket screwdriver. They come in handy for so many things that don’t involve turning a screw. When we were slow at the Saturn dealer after the 9/11 attacks we put together a list of uses for a pocket screwdriver and came up with almost 40 uses for it.
I agree with you on the battery electric impact tools, but I still use air for an impact hammer or chisel. The hose clamp compression tool is new to me, seems like a good idea. The angle grinder (and Dremel for finer work) changed everything when it comes to cutting. The last time I used my oxyacetylene torch for cutting was to burn off a trailer hitch ball that was seized beyond any hope of normal removal. I still use my torch for freeing up seized items from time to time. Multimeter - check. A temperature probe for the multimeter is also helpful, especially for hot bearings. I also have a DC amps clamp meter - very useful. Stethoscopes - check. Power probe - check. Relay manual switch - check. Easy to make your own from an old relay and a mini toggle switch and a LED to indicate if the relay coil is powered. Jump box - check - now done with lithium ion batteries very light weight. Smoke machine - don’t have one yet. Scan tool - check. The other tool I find very useful is a digital battery tester as you can measure the internal resistance of the battery - that is the big tell all on battery state of health.
Can I ask why you still use air for impact tools? I personally like that they can be lighter tools since they don't have a DC motor or battery, but managing the air hose is a bit of a hassle.
@@josephsager9425 I use a battery powered tools for 1/2" of 3/8" drive applications. I much prefer them as they are very portable and easy to use away from the workshop. And yes, that air hose can be annoying at times. I am still using manual tools for 3/4" drive stuff.I haven't come across a battery powered impact hammer or chisel yet, so I use air to power them.
One tool that I'm liking now is my thermal camera. Useful for household purposes, but seeing a hot circuit draining your battery, or cold spots near the exhaust suggesting a dead cylinder firing is nice.
Also inductive heater, 2 joint plier, magnetic lifter, mirrors. I like your channel. You give so much information without abusing the attention of your viewers.
My top ten tools are 10 spare 10mm sockets. I spent 32 years as a mechanic using air tools that caused hearing loss from the air tools and an air compressor running all day. Finished just before cordless was used, but have all Makita cordless workshop tools now.
As a mechanic in the past, I had all air tools and to this day I still use them. Now as the maintenance manager for a door company, I’ve been moving more to battery tools. Why? While we have compressed air from a couple 20HP rotary air compressors. Having a place to connect to air to use is limited and having to drag air hoses suck. Especially if I’m working in a large freezer. It moving from one room to the next. Besides I’m not paying for these tools, let alone the batteries. If I’m working on cars professionally, I would still use air. You don’t have to worry about batteries being charged let alone going bad. There air air hoses all over. The tools are generally less bulky. At home I have an air compressor and air fitting and a couple roll up hoses, one that will reach across the street, then easily roll back up. So I’m using air tools at home. Build my new shed using air nailers and staplers and other air tools. I think there is a place for both types.
I have worked in electronics most of my life, and consider myself a shadetree mechanic who does most of my own automotive work. I purchased my DVM from O'Reilliy's and it has most of the Fluke features, but it also has the ability to measure RPM and Dwell. Useful when setting up points when needed.
I believe I have heard him say that he, or no one else in the shop knows how to diagnose and work on the old ignition systems, and they have no desire to learn. That they basically do not like to work on old cars. (except the ones they like apparently)
Always buy an extra 10mm socket. They really do go missing. Ive lost 2 in the last 5 years. No idea where they went But seriously, this was a great video. Super interesting! I love that you are enjoying the success and fruits of your labor. Makes us all very happy
I was a professional mechanic for 37 years. I have been an amateur mechanic for a lot longer than that, and still am. As a professional mechanic, I used mostly pneumatic tools, though we did have a few of those battery powered tools during the last few years. The shop where I used to work (until just 3 years ago) still uses pneumatic tools, and has air lines dropping from the ceiling in every service bay. In my home shop, I only use hand tools. I don't need to be in a hurry, and enjoy doing things the proper way. My only cordless tool is a DeWalt drill. I've never even seen the second tool. never had any problems removing spring clamps with a pair of Channellocks. I had pneumatic angle grinders at work, and have a corded angle grinder at home. I removed and threw away the guard on the one I have at home. They can be dangerous trying to get them into the proper position with that guard. Don't use power tools casually or carelessly. Most of them are extremely dangerous when used that way. I once cut an entire car in half with an angle grinder. I have several multimeters, both analog and digital, including a clamp type for checking amp draw without a physical connection to the wire. I do not have a Fluke meter, like what we had at work. They cost a fortune, and there seems to be nothing special about them. The place I worked was a government fleet shop. I finally found out why they used those expensive Fluke meters. It's because they have been making the same models forever, and the government literally based their specifications around them, and they won't work with other brands. Your tax money at work. I do have a couple of stethoscopes. Sometimes they are helpful, sometimes not. You need to be familiar with them. They can amplify a normal noise and make you think something is wrong when it isn't. But they are reasonably inexpensive and worth having. I don't have a power probe. I have something much simpler. Actually a couple of them. One is store bought, one is homemade. I have an "icepick" tester. It looks like an icepick with a clear handle. There is a 12V bulb in the clear plastic handle, and a ground wire with an alligator clip on it. You clamp that to a ground, then use the icepick part to pierce an insulated wire to see if there is voltage in it. If there is, the light bulb will come on. The other one works the same way, but is home made, using a small sewing needle soldered to a wire. It's for use on very small diameter wires to prevent damaging the insulation. An ohmmeter will check a bulb. Applying power and ground to a 12V motor will tell if it is any good. I really don't need time savers in my home shop, though they may come in handy for a professional. Those relays look like a good idea, but I have never seen one. There are so many different types and sizes of relays, with different prong angles and spacing, it seems like you would have to have an awful lot of them. And I've noticed a lot of new cars are coming with relays soldered onto a circuit board. They are almost always too small, fail often, and require replacement of the entire board. I must have had over a dozen jump start packs. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. They also don't last very long. If you have a completely dead battery, you will need to remove one of the cables from the battery to take it out of the circuit. A dead battery will not allow the power from the jump start pack to reach the starter. I have an old school battery charger/starter. It is a large device on wheels with a handle do you can push it around. It plugs into 120V AC, and can put out enough 12V DC amperage to start an engine. All gas stations use to have them. I prefer devices that only do one thing. I have a 12V air compressor that connects to a car battery using alligator clamps. I have a jump start pack that is just a jump start pack. And I have a light that is just a light. I have a 12V halogen light that connects to a car battery with alligator clamps. Jump start packs are so unreliable that I suggest you check the Project Farm channel for the latest update on which one he thinks is the best. Even if you get the best, don't be too surprised if it fails. I actually recommend getting a large car battery and a set of jumper cables. Keep the battery on a maintainer, so it will always be charged. Yes, they are big and heavy, but they do have enough power to start a car. We had a smoke machine at work. I've never had one myself. We had tens of thousands of $$$ worth of computerized diagnostic equipment and vehicle specific software at work. I don't even have a basic code reader. I hate that kind of thing. Out of my 5 vehicles, only one has a computer in it, and that is my 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis. I have had over 30 years experience with the Ford Crown Vic (same as the Mercury version) So far the CEL has never came on in mine. If it does, I could probably guess what the problem was. My son in law has a code reader if all else fails. I'm not into computer cars. The Ford Panther cars are pretty much the ONLY computer cars I know about that don't have constant check engine light issues. At work we would get 7-8 vehicles a day coming in that were still running fine, but had the check engine light on. It was absolutely maddening. But almost none of them were Crown Vics. And when it was, it was almost always the MAF sensor. They are a weak point on the Ford 4.6L 2 valve.
As a DIY guy, I bought an XTool D7 scan tool, and so far, I'm pretty happy with it. It's a bit cheaper than the similar Autel model, and it paid for itself in the first week when I used it to program new immobilizers and fobs for my wife's Subaru.
I have one I just bought, and I was a bit disappointed in playing around with it and inadvertently resetting the mileage on my car. I had set it to miles, and it converted it into a pseudo kilometer conversion (it was NOT km's that's for sure). I just felt that this was something stupid that should have never left the shop without this kind of testing.
I bought one of those weird hose clamp pliers months back when I had to replace my previous car's radiator. There were some hose clamps that I could not get to at ALL with regular pliers. $30 at my local auto parts store, and they paid for themselves the first time I used them. They're never leaving my toolbox, especially if I can ever afford to start collecting a few 90s Japanese cars. I'm going to reach for them first, every single time I have to do a spring-type hose clamp, because even the clamps that are right there up at the very top can be made short work of by those things. They saved me so much time and sanity the first time I used them.
I agree the smaller size air stuff is cheap and lasts longer my mechanic friend is still running his IR 2235 he does bust out his M18 hi torque for big jobs but with cars getting more compact in the engine bay the air tools do work well and last very long if oiled
5:10 I agree 100% on the angle grinder. I spent 13 years doing residential construction and remodeling. I’ve been a merchant mariner for 14 years and angle grinders have been in use on a weekly if not daily basis.
for a first scan tool, I recommend the otofix D1 or D1 lite. I got a lite for $320 on sale, normally ~$420. The lite is basically just smaller screen and has a slower processor. The non-lite is ~$750. These ARE Autels in function. The interface is AUTEL and you get software updates directly from AUTEL. Even the lite DOES have bi-directional controls (they don’t advertise that on their site but it was recently added in an update). 2 things they lack are TPMS activation and any programming/coding. Basically, get one of these and upgrade to a much more expensive scan tool later if you really need those functions. Oh and they have 3 years free updates instead of the 2 for the AUTELs
Guess this means you didn't get a new calendar for Christmas? So I guess the one "tool" nobody needs is the mountain gorilla to torque that oil pan drain plug to 800 pounds?
The 1/2" impact gun I use as a DIY guy is an older DeWalt NiCd unit that I bought years ago. It used to be pretty weak. I've since put an M18 adapter in it and run Milwaukee batteries in it. It works way better with the M18 battery! Still nothing compared to the M18 Fuel impact.
14:03 Not necessarily. Maybe with THAT over priced snapon machine, but with a home made smoker and a single cigarette you can do it much MUCH cheaper. Ive also seen people use a "Ball canning Jar" and a soldering iron, placed to wet cloth to make smoke inside. Rubber aquarium hoses or the like. About 5$ (well maybe now it may be more cigs are outrageously expensive) vs $2,340 for the Snapon one.
I've made my own as well with PVC 4" pipes, capped, with nichrome wire to heat up the oil, with inlet and outlet for air. Need a pressure regulator as well, to not blow things out.
Great list. I'd never even heard of that relay tester before. I have a battery impact wrench, which is godsend in my little hobbyist workshop. But, if I had the space, and was using it regularly, I would probably still buy a compressor. Because there are so many tools and other equipment that can be run when you have air; different size impact wrenches, sanders, bead blasting cabinet, CV boot spreader, etc.
I do like battery tools, but in the home shop I like air and plug in stuff, most of the time I don't need the convenience of a cordless tool and the reliability and power of corded stuff when I only use it a few times a month makes it easy to justify rolling out a cord or hose when you do need it. Glad your Fluke meter landed high up there, you can hardly even diagnose a 1940's charging system without a good multimeter, I don't even check my mail without mine.
Aside from my dad, I had a lot of mentors, so I never feel alone when I get temporary stumped. Like it or not, but I’m not in industry, but via your content, I have a new mentor: You. 😊😅 I learned to fix Tube & Transistor TVs, and assembled Heathkit stuff & trained on Simpson multimeters. If you heat wrap the stethoscope shaft, it helps with the extra noise. I think Scotty Kilmer uses the same scan tool that requires a subscription. You & Mrs Wizard seem to have a great accounting system & lifts are important too. I’m honestly surprised that you work on almost every car, and have enough space & lifts to accommodate projects. Best thing is good work, no attitude from customers/clients & a good accounting system. I love how you mentor your junior mechanics & maybe even sometimes learn from them. 👍
I did a cooling system overhaul a few months ago and that spring clamp tool would have been a God send. Definitely buying one. Contorting my wrist that day is probably how I injured it. Thanks!
I'm a shade tree mechanic, in my experience the jump battery, multi meter, grinder wheel are very useful tools to have. I would add to the list, magnet/retriever tools, not expensive but very handy when you drop a bolt or nut in a in accessible spot. Headache saver for sure.
And the magnetic little trays / bowls for parts. I have a few stuck on my toolbox until needed
Magnet retriever for getting those spark plugs out of those deep wells.
That hose clamp plier is the most usefuls after the impact gun lol
I agree I have a flexible push button claw grabber with a magnet and it saves me headaches all the time. I also have some rare earth magnets I can electrical tape to a dowel or long rod and pick up very heavy things just doesn't work well in close quarters because it likes to stick to anything it gets close to.
Omg definitely magnets. Definitely.
Great list. Here's some small tools that go a long way:
-telescoping magnet
-pick tools
-ratcheting wrenches
-mechanic telescoping mirror
-small grab tool
-c clamp
-vice grips
I remember buying Pick Tools at Harbor Freight thinking why am I buying these? Well, they have been so useful especially when changing Oil Filter Housing Gaskets on my Toyota Avalon!
Magnet will save a lot of headaches and cursing. Flexible ones as well
What do you use the c clamp for? I don’t think I have any or ever wanted to buy one except for woodworking
Telescoping magnet has saved my behind several times.
@@amg863 you can use a C-clamp to compress brake caliper pistons
My wife was in an auto maintenance program in community college for a time. She had a Fluke multimeter; they were and still are the gold standard.
As we used to say in the electronics industry, "If it works, it's a Fluke!"
There is nothing special about a Fluke meter. The ONLY reason the government, including the military, uses them, is because they literally based all their specifications on them, and Fluke has stuck to those specifications, because they are making a fortune from it. My favorite multimeter is a 30+ year old AW Sperry clamp on type.
@@geraldscott4302 Fluke may not be special, but it works. Period.
I got my Fluke Meter I got while in automotive trade school back in 87/88 and it still works great today!!!
Actually a major reason for the Government's use of Fluke is because Fluke will calibrate it for you, which is often a Government Requirement. Granted on most work I use one of my many $3 Harbor Freight Multi-Meters. But when it is important, I use my Fluke@@geraldscott4302
My favorite tool is the 120 volt induction coil for removing seized nuts and bolts.
The more modern version of a torch I support this as it works better at targeting the nut and or bolt. One thing is the torch can make steel liquid if needed
Scanner - For advanced DIY, Launch has the Elite x431 that is loaded by auto brand. It has the full 2 way communications and module support in including test activation. You can add other brands if needed, so for an example, I have VW + Mercedes library for the cars we have at home. No yearly subscription. Having a limited library saves a lot of money yet keeping performance.
Thanks, I've been looking for something just like that in the market.
Must have for me:
-10mm wrench
-10mm socket
-10mm racket wrench
-10mm crows foot
-Impact (that accepts a 10mm socket)
-10mm impact swivel
-1/2 right angle impact (that accepts a 10mm)
-10mm Irwin extractor
-10mm tap and die
Sig p220 in 10mm
😂😅🤣😂😅🙃🙃
10 mm deep well socket 🤣
As an older guy the battery powered tools are a Godsend!
I recently changed the clutch on my Mk1 VW Jetta. My 20V mini-impact gun made bolting and unbolting the transaxle a breeze. It would've been a nightmare with a ratchet wrench. Even air tools are a pain, what with the hose and the air-blasts and the noise and wait times of the compressor.
I couldn't imagine doing any work without my battery powered impact tools. The days of hand-ratcheting nuts and bolts are over!
And no damn airhose.
i have all the air tools/compressor...never a dead or dying battery LOL
I haven't found a bolt that a long enough breaker bar won't loosen. Just what are the torque specs on those bolts? I can put 100 lb.ft. of torque on a bolt with a 12" ratchet.
Just remember to wear hearing protection when you can. All of those will trash your hearing over time…….
I managed to snag the kobalt right angle impact when it was @ $99. It's great, and man an compact-head 3/8 extended electric ratchet is truly one of the best tools ever.
Those spring clamp pliers are one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of saving time and headaches, and scraped up knuckles and bent radiator fins
One of the things I have learned from you videos is to find a trustworthy mechanic and to follow his advice. I have found a good one by word of mouth and am quite happy. I am older and arthritic so I can no longer do my own work. I would rather spend money on my 1988 vehicle than purchase a new one that costs more than my first 3 homes combined. I am lucky to live in Arizona where I do not have to worry about rust.
I order a lot of used parts through ebay & I look for sellers coming out of Arizona because the parts are always completely rust free.
Another great video, thank you. As an old retired auto tech of 42 years, 32 of them as a shop owner with ASE certifications and employees I would like to add what I think is the most important tool. That’s the one between your ears. A good basic understanding of physics, basic electronics, the application of logic and how to access information is very important. You can have a wonderfully skilled set of hands but without knowledge and understanding they won’t do you any good. Also if you’re planning to open a shop add business classes to the mix. And just a last comment. Electric power tools are getting better and better and very handy. But when it comes to tightening something, always recheck it with a hand tool to make sure. I’ve seen to many oops come back. 😊😊
Torque wrench w/clicker = NO Comebacks!
I agree. I've been a tech for 15 years now and I've seen guys with all the tools and still can't fix cars properly
I've been a tech since 1997. I like watching the Wizard, he's straight to the point and no bullshit. Good job!
Tools are a real problem. The more you have, the more you need. I found that staying out of tool shops helpful. Cordless, high torque drivers are a blessing. You need a couple of those. Thanks for an absolutely fantastic post.
Off to the shop to buy a new compressor.
A piece of brake line in a rubber hose is one of the best stethoscopes I've used, does both jobs is free and flexible, multi purpose, blow gun extension
I appreciate that his list isn't wrenches and screw drivers. We know those things, but he's listing the things that we wouldn't have thought of.
Man, I don't know what I would replace with it but I feel a serpentine belt tensioner tool should have been on the list. Especially with how tight many cars are to get to the tensioner.
Oh, that's easy! Just take the end of a breaker bar after you snapped it off trying to loosen a CV Axle-nut and just weld it to a 1/8th inch thick strip of flat steel; problem solved!
CV axle nuts, head bolts, exhaust nuts, either way: A snapped off breaker bar is a snapped off breaker bar; just weld it to something else.
@@Rekuzangood tip
I almost didn't watch this! What could I possibly still learn after 50 years turning a wrench? Well I picked up two new items for my toolbox!! I got the hose clamp tool and the relay jumper. Super useful! Thank you!
I just discovered the power probe last year after hearing the wizard talk about it before. It made a troubleshooting job so easy it was unbelievable. Saved me many hours of time not needing a helper. I got it on amazon in one day for way less than even harbor freights price. I forgot to use the wizards link though. Sorry.
You know car wizard, this is exactly the content that makes me appreciate you, you want to share your knowledge with others, i respect that a lot, keep up the good work man
I still have all my grandfathers professional grade air tools & the huge giant compressor. All still works flawlessly.
I use air tools constantly also, once you have a decent compressor the air tools are getting better for the price aircat is quite a good one.
I still prefer air tools I don't have to worry about charging batteries.
I purchased my compressor and the beginning of my air tools about 20 years ago. I like the battery tools, and have one long reach rachet, but I can't justify the cost for the amount of use they would get.
@@aldoncoplus air tools have a better power to weight ratio than most battery tools. I don’t like heavy cordless impact wrenches.
I'm still using my 1990 Mac impact gun . I rebuilt it once and it works flawlessly.
If there was ever a time saved per dollar spent metric, the hose clamp tool wins hands down. That thing is awesome.
great tool,I wasted too much time before I got that
You don't understand until you use one. I couldn't believe I ever went without one after using it. It's a tool straight from the mechanic gods.
Second place has to go to the angle grinder. I used to absolutely hate working on exhaust systems until my dad bought one… what a timesaver! You aren’t going to reuse the hardware, pipes, or mufflers, so just cut it all off and get it done so you can connect the new exhaust!
@@JBM425 good tool. I put a course flap sander on mine and sharpen lawn mower blades in a jiffy.
#1 must have tool: 10mm wrench!
And a ratchet at least
Multiple**
There is a Harbor Freight 10mm set that has 9 pieces. 3 for 1/4, 3 3/8 and 3 1/2 sockets. Under $15
Six point wrench/socket is a instant win
@@stoundingresultsthank you for giving me motivation to put myself into a money pit at the local HF. Gonna be happy person sad wallet 😂
An alternative to the power probe is the TOPDON version that also has an oscilloscope. That scope function is brilliant for chasing intermittent signal drops in ignition modules and injectors when you can see what's happening. It was my best tool purchase last year.
Milwaukee Fuel battery powered tools are great but the best I've used are Hilti. They do cost an arm and a leg but the batteries charge up faster than any other brand, their capabilities are unmatched and although I've never experienced one breaking but if they do Hilti replace them with new no questions asked unless it's a case of perfectly obvious abuse like dropping the tool into sea water and leaving it there for some time. Others we used that worked fine were Bosch blue, Makita, AEG and Hitachi.
As a DIY, I can confirm, that second clamp tool, LIFE SAVING
Even as a driveway weekend warrior the Milwaukee 1/2" impact is the best tool I've ever purchased.
I have a 3/8” Milwaukie that is as strong as the 1/2” inch. Love it.
@@nels9382 do you use that for lug nuts?
I've have been a mechanic for years specializing in electrical repairs. Long before they came out with relay testers I took 2 old relays and on one I put a push button on it to manual activate the circuit. On the other I put 2 LEDs on it. One red and one green to test to light up if it has power and activated
I also made a similar tool. As well as a tool for testing used relays with & without a simulated load...
You do a wonderful job. Your mentor called them rabbit ears because old TVs back in the day had rabbit ear antennas that looked similar.
The Wizard is like the US version of James May in his explanation of things. I find it very soothing and comforting.
One tool i keep in my tool box is a pair or several pairs of locking hemostats (like used in surgery)..one pair i have magnetized so if i drop a bolt or nut down somewhere i can easily retrive it...that thing has saved my bacon more than once
Love those. Have straight jaw and bent jaw ones myself. Inexpensive at local farm and ranch store in vet section.
Every pro shop needs a credit card processor equipped with a Tyler Hoover.
Been using the Milwaukee 12 volt tools for twenty years now. Does just about everything but the last turn. Reliable and plenty strong for most all of my woodworking. Judging from that their 18 volt stuff is doubtless the best.
Their tools are 20 volt now though!
Agree about the angle grinder except a caution should be given to those unfamiliar. A guard should be included as the cut off wheel will explode and send pieces everywhere.
I had a guard on mine and a disk exploded. Screwed up my finger a little bit but those flying pieces of disk would have hit me right in the face without the guard on.
Yes, absolutely, thank you! Personally I never use the guard anymore and always take it off when I get a new grinder, but I have 25 yrs (+) of experience under my belt so I don't really need one and know how to deal with it, but if yer new, absolutely, yes! Also, I would like to note that with that experience comes enough wisdom to still use a face shield every time!
pieces? Naw, scars on your hand!
That's why they call it a death wheel
Always use a face shield with these, just in case.
Somehow this reminds me of the Mastercard commercial with MacGyver fixing a 18 Wheeler with a pair of tweezers, a Swiss army knife and a roll of ducttape
Always have an OBD2 scan tool in your car! They are so inexpensive to buy! You’ll be glad you did!
what kind of cars do you drive?
If OBD2 is all you care about, just get one of those $20 dongles that bluetooth or wifi links to your phone, then torque or whichever other app you find most useful for your make of vehicle.
@@gvxclassicsAny vehicles made effective 1996-current use OBD2 ports.
@@boogitybear2283 duh
@boogitybear2283 pretty sure he already knew that .
Well thats a warm and fuzzy feeling, I looked at the tools and had all but the clamp pliers, and did buy a set of those hose clamp pliers) Yeah, I'm old my impact wrench is pneumatic but I rarely use it that much and its good enough for my purposes. Pretty good at DC electrics and just amazing how many good mechanics apparently have no idea of what to do with wires. I do like the plug in relays but I can get buy with my switch with alligator clips (and a little green LED bulb that says its got juice).
While I like this but the jump pack, as a tow truck driver I run the noco boost pro gb150, can't beat it lithium batteries so can be below 0 no problem we recently had -60 weather having 3000amps really helped
I appreciate how generous you are with your time and knowledge. Nothing replaces knowledge and experience.
Actually, that geiger counter could be very useful, for Japanese imports. Seriously there have been a number of instances around the world where Japanese import cars have turned out to be highly radioactive. Some unscroupulous guys had been pulling cars, mainly exotics and rarities, out of the Fukushima prefecture and re registering to another prefecture, then exporting them.
My uncle worked with a recycling company for a few years and they had an incident where scrap metal from Russia had a high level radiation source embedded in the scrap. He got heavily exposed before it was detected and a decade later he developed multiple cancers. The health authorities seriously messed up and he was informed only 5 years after the first detection. Against all odds he survived the treatments and lives a full life today.
Then they must also be forging the Japanese government-issued radiation-free export document that all car exports get
Just because you parked your car in Fukushima doesn’t mean it’s going to be a significant source of radiation contamination, assuming you washed it (dust and all that.) Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings. It doesn’t work like that.
So much concern about the release of water from that incident. The Pacific Ocean is a very big drink of water, heh.
Still, having a Geiger counter is _never_ a bad idea.
@@declanfarberUnfortunately, you would appear to have a hollywood movie grasp of nuclear radiation. It's not as simple as just washing radioactive dust off, that's why there are a half a dozen or so Bradley fighting vehicles shipped back and buried in Arizona, they were damaged in friendly fire incidents involving DU ammunition in Iraq. When it is too difficut and expensive to successfully decontaminate and repair a multi million dollar military vehicle I don't think anyone is going to decontaminate a Datsun, especially considering the contaminating isotopes at Fukushima were orders of magnitude more dangerous than those produced by DU - we're talking cesium and cobalt. As for 'Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings.' ...the contamination was widespread, to this day an 800 sqkm exclusion zone exists with only limited access.
Sooo, everything old is NUKE again? 🥸
So as a "boomer" who has only used air tools, it doesnt seem like a "long, long time ago". I still use them . Battery powered are good for in the mobile toolbox. And I have an impact wrench and angle grinder in that box. But Im 100% air power in my shop. More torque than electric too. And if you do any body work, its a must have. My tire changer doesnt run on batteries either., so theres that too.
Yeah, those huge $5,000-$6,000 3 phase air compressors are best used for large scale tire installation (think multiple bays of cars or trucks at 4-6 tires per vehicle or even more if you’re talking heavy duty trucks) but I myself have a small 20 gallon compressor that meets all of my needs for the home garage.
It was a long long time ago in the sense that you have to consider not today but the year that the decision was made to get the air compressor and tools for it. Continuing to use what you have if it works for you, is just common sense.
You really don't need more torque than modern battery powered impact wrenches can provide. Granted some may have a h arder time fitting in tight spaces.
I wanna know what was setting off the Geiger counter under that towel!! Oh, and you need a grab bag of about 100 10mm sockets.
Probably a smoke detector.
I heartily agree about the 10mm sockets!
My favorite tool currently is my electric ratchet. I’m 6 years into building my own cars & it’s always cool when I find a new tool I can use on a regular
I really like my MK808ts, it's done everything I need so far with my BMW's. I purchased the BT506 battery diagnostic add on tool that works with it, haven't tried anything with TPMS programming. Before the subscription expired in 2023 I downloaded as many popular models into the device as I could so at least diagnose everything up to that point
I am stocking up on Milwaukee tools currently. I'd say the 3/8" Right Angle Impact, 1/2" stubby impact, and 3/8" impact ratchet are my most used. As well i bought a diag tool, an Xtool D8. Does everything I currently need it to for cars, will be upgrading to a D9HD soon. Will definitely look at your amazon list and keep stocking up. Thanks for the recommendations on must haves.
One thing I would recommend for your shop since you have a fairly large shop is picknup a used walk behind floor scrubber like they use at Costco, Grocery stores. You can clean the whole shop in half hour and better than just sweeping or mopping the floor will do. We have two Tennant scrubbers at our shop and we work on heavy equipment that bring in lots of dirt.
I used to deliver parts to shops for a national auto parts store chain. One shop, specializing in diesels, had a floor machine and they used it frequently. That was an amazing shop to walk into. It almost looked like the waxed the floor, and maybe they did.
Power tools have changed craftsmanship for the better. I've been a Dewalt user since the 14.4 volt were introduced. Now I'm a 20 volt user with about a dozen tools in my shop. Besides The drills, the impact tools and the cutoff tools, the bandsaw, the grease gun and the new power socket are my must haves.
The relays with on off switch is great info, thanks.
Dave, thanks to your recommending Mountain reversible ratcheting wrenches with flexible heads in an earlier video, I was able to loosen the bolt from hell: a 15 mm fastener behind the back of the intake manifold on my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. It's been called the hardest part of the job of replacing the intake manifold on that car. What a wonderful feeling when I got the head around that sucker and it cracked loose. The sound of success. Thanks for the tip!
Agree with every choice! I had the same reaction the first time I saw a fellow tech used those remote hose clamp pliers, instantly had to get my own
In Germany there is a very well-known car channel called “Die Autodoktoren” and they use the smoke machine at least in every other episode.
Smoke escaping from the wiring harness indicates Lucas electrics.
I always look forward to wizard videos. Doesn’t matter the topic. Also very much enjoy Mrs wizards ways. Her videos are very calming and informative.
Awesome video! thanks! I've always been a gear head. I enjoy working on my project car. But, that is only 1 of 4 cars in the family that I have to maintain and repair. My newest car is 14 years old and had 250k miles on it. So, I can get pretty bust keeping up with them in addition to a crazy busy schedule. As we all know, there is never a convenient time to have a car break down or need repair work. I have 4 of the 10 on this list. I plan on buying 9 more of them after seeing this video an dhow much time they save when you're trying to fix a car on a deadline. Or just to make your time more productive. So, thanks again Wizard! Oh, you should consider adding the R51 Pathfinder to the list of good high mileage cars!
Love the content Wizard! I am 43 and 20 year tech now I am solo in the sticks and still run all on air I can't justify it as all my air stuff works great. I do have some electric but prefer air. Great video!
air has never let me down! batteries sure have many a time.
Once they all start to fail a bit, and arent as strong as you thought they are, youll notice. My grandpa swore by his air for so long, till one day He goes to put a wheel on, and hammers the shit out of it. I came by and loosened that lug by hand... Just two fingers... He said "WT FLYING FUCK" and thrw it in the trash and subsequently bought battery tools. They work when they work but when they dont.... its hard ot notice without double checking stuff. NTB / Tire king has been sued for wheels falling off due to people using air tools and never checking with a torque wrench... because they overly trusted that air tool...
Stupid question, but if the cables/hoses are THAT short, how do you plan to get the air chuck to the tires when it's connected to the battery?
I actually have a nice handheld cordless air compressor for remote tires it works great. I also have 200 ft of Air hose @@Rekuzan
I don't think he ever answers.
My number 11, a two post or four post lift. Yes, its a very special piece of equipment but if you have the overhead space and the floor loading capability its worth every penny. I'm in my 70's and full of arthritis so getting down on a creeper under a car isn't going to happen for me. I still seek the help of a professional occasionally but I'm able to maintain my vehicles for 90% of our maintenance needs. My lift was my retirement gift to myself eight years ago.
10 essential tools plus the pile of odds and ends that’s been accumulating the last 20 years thinking this bolt, screw, or part will come in handy one day 😅
It will come in handy, but only if you threw it away, a day before you need it.
@@altergreenhornWelcome to my world 😅
@@altergreenhorn
My 'I might need this in the next 3 decades' garage next on Hoarders. 😅
@JeffMcMenamin1027 my problem exactly.
High flow compressed air still used in body shops. But, for auto mechanics impact drivers (up to 1/2 inch drive), bit drivers, grinder wheels, cutting wheels, and a lot more, air is dead. Electric power tools are just easier and faster than air tools. Obviously you do not have a hose to move around, but the real advantage is if you set up several electric drivers to do specific things in the repair, you are not swapping the hose or attachments. Grab and go.
I would have to agree the Fluke DMMs are the meter of choice for automotive troubleshooting. I have an older Fluke 87 which is an excellent automotive DMM.
I have a PP4 Circuit Tester which is a versatile tool, but I actually use my Fluke 87 DMM more often with different load resistors (functions like a bulb load tester without the bulb), which act like the power probe supplying a current path to ground or +12VDC power. The Fluke 87 has more resolution than the PP4 and I pick the appropriate load (I use five different values (Ohm): 6.8, 10, 22, 100, 1000) for the test being performed. I also like the Fluke DMM probes and other attachments which use shrouded banana jacks and plugs, especially stacking shrouded jacks. I just think the banana probes are more versatile and trust worthy than the PP4 tip with an attachment. I guess I am just more confident in the DMM probe accessories. I primarily use Fluke and Pomona test leads, and when I make my own test leads I use Pomona materials.
another bonus #11 if you have the space
a lift!
I hate getting under my car, so much easier to pick it up
Just got my mid-rise installed (which involved unboxing, connecting lines filling with hydraulic fluid, and plugging in. No concrete work, unpack and work. It's a back saver. I can already tell. 😅
If you can't fit a lift, don't have the space, do mostly restoration work or don't own the building, get a pair of identical professional grade trolley jacks. That way you can quickly and safely lift one end of the car at a time...
i couldnt afford a lift, I dug a hole in the yard like the bays at quick lube places.
The first tool I ever bought off a tool truck was my Fluke 88V. 18 years later, I still have it and use it daily. Solid list Car Wizard.
17:14 Never thought I'd hear, "bye, Felicia" from the Wizard. Imma clip that.
Been working on our cars for over 30 yrs. I still enjoy using air tools. (They are Powerful, inexpensive, very dependable, low maintenance and takes up less space. I thought of some other tools that might come in handy:
1) Head led light. Nothing like being able to use both hands and shine the light where your looking.
2) Under hood led light. Lights up the entire engine bay when working.
3) Small magnetic led light
4) Welder
5) Plasma cutter
6) Floor creeper for those of us that don't have a lift.
7) Stubby air wrench. Great getting into those small spaces.
8) Hand wrench with an extendable handle, for more torque.
9) Bolt extractor set.
What brand hood LED light do you recommend……I would like to add one??
I have an Eastwood Co. brand. But Harbor Freight has a similar one.
The list is endless.. budget seems to play a big part.. now we have all this cheap chinesium stuff to add confusion to the mix.. nothing like a box full of modified spanners n sockets to get the job done..😂😂
Yes, number 1 is very helpful.
Geiger counters are actually very useful for inspecting Chinese parts, because you don’t know where they got the metal to build them. This is a thing, particularly with machine tools in the past. It’s gotten better now that they have radiation detectors at some of the major shipping ports (but I don’t know how effective those would be for smaller items and random contamination.)
Just like trying to weld with chinese steel, what a joke.
1:16 I work in a potash refinery. It’s very similar to a salt mine. We use Milwaukee fuel impacts. They really impress me with the power and durability.
Love the new Milwaukee tools. Total game changer.
The only air tools I care to use or find the need for anymore in the automotive sector are air hammers and tire inflators and thats really it.
I like the electric tools a lot. I’m 81 and only work on my 2000 Echo and 97 Corolla which doesn’t even have an OEBD port just a port under the hood where jump pins and read blink codes. The jumper wire costs less than a penny. I do have a Fluke 117 about the same as you 115, but mostly just sockets and hand tools that go back to the 60s. Interesting what you have to have in a modern shop.
Car Wizard, will you consider making a video about the different variants of grease and what to use where and when and when not. Thanks!
If it goes into a grease gun, I always use the red water resistant grease from Napa. As for wheel bearings, I use the type for disk brakes regardless of if the bearings need the high temp version. As for spray grease, the red water resistant grease in a spray can. And lastly, I use the CV Joint grease that came with the CV joints or boot kits...
@@davidhollenshead4892 Excellent thank you for taking the time to write this down
I’ve spent 30 years wrenching. I like all the tools you mentioned, but you forgot the most important and valuable tool of all. The pocket screwdriver. They come in handy for so many things that don’t involve turning a screw. When we were slow at the Saturn dealer after the 9/11 attacks we put together a list of uses for a pocket screwdriver and came up with almost 40 uses for it.
I agree with you on the battery electric impact tools, but I still use air for an impact hammer or chisel. The hose clamp compression tool is new to me, seems like a good idea. The angle grinder (and Dremel for finer work) changed everything when it comes to cutting. The last time I used my oxyacetylene torch for cutting was to burn off a trailer hitch ball that was seized beyond any hope of normal removal. I still use my torch for freeing up seized items from time to time. Multimeter - check. A temperature probe for the multimeter is also helpful, especially for hot bearings. I also have a DC amps clamp meter - very useful. Stethoscopes - check. Power probe - check. Relay manual switch - check. Easy to make your own from an old relay and a mini toggle switch and a LED to indicate if the relay coil is powered. Jump box - check - now done with lithium ion batteries very light weight. Smoke machine - don’t have one yet. Scan tool - check. The other tool I find very useful is a digital battery tester as you can measure the internal resistance of the battery - that is the big tell all on battery state of health.
Can I ask why you still use air for impact tools?
I personally like that they can be lighter tools since they don't have a DC motor or battery, but managing the air hose is a bit of a hassle.
@@josephsager9425 I use a battery powered tools for 1/2" of 3/8" drive applications. I much prefer them as they are very portable and easy to use away from the workshop. And yes, that air hose can be annoying at times. I am still using manual tools for 3/4" drive stuff.I haven't come across a battery powered impact hammer or chisel yet, so I use air to power them.
One tool that I'm liking now is my thermal camera. Useful for household purposes, but seeing a hot circuit draining your battery, or cold spots near the exhaust suggesting a dead cylinder firing is nice.
@@josephsager9425 I have a hose reel up above the floor, so not causing many problems.
Also inductive heater, 2 joint plier, magnetic lifter, mirrors. I like your channel. You give so much information without abusing the attention of your viewers.
Power Probe would be #1 for me. Made me a lot off money
My top ten tools are 10 spare 10mm sockets. I spent 32 years as a mechanic using air tools that caused hearing loss from the air tools and an air compressor running all day. Finished just before cordless was used, but have all Makita cordless workshop tools now.
Great advices! Thanks for sharing.
As a mechanic in the past, I had all air tools and to this day I still use them. Now as the maintenance manager for a door company, I’ve been moving more to battery tools. Why? While we have compressed air from a couple 20HP rotary air compressors. Having a place to connect to air to use is limited and having to drag air hoses suck. Especially if I’m working in a large freezer. It moving from one room to the next. Besides I’m not paying for these tools, let alone the batteries.
If I’m working on cars professionally, I would still use air. You don’t have to worry about batteries being charged let alone going bad. There air air hoses all over. The tools are generally less bulky.
At home I have an air compressor and air fitting and a couple roll up hoses, one that will reach across the street, then easily roll back up. So I’m using air tools at home. Build my new shed using air nailers and staplers and other air tools.
I think there is a place for both types.
I have worked in electronics most of my life, and consider myself a shadetree mechanic who does most of my own automotive work. I purchased my DVM from O'Reilliy's and it has most of the Fluke features, but it also has the ability to measure RPM and Dwell. Useful when setting up points when needed.
I believe I have heard him say that he, or no one else in the shop knows how to diagnose and work on the old ignition systems, and they have no desire to learn. That they basically do not like to work on old cars. (except the ones they like apparently)
You forgot the penlight Wizard. LOL
Always buy an extra 10mm socket. They really do go missing. Ive lost 2 in the last 5 years. No idea where they went
But seriously, this was a great video. Super interesting! I love that you are enjoying the success and fruits of your labor. Makes us all very happy
I was a professional mechanic for 37 years. I have been an amateur mechanic for a lot longer than that, and still am.
As a professional mechanic, I used mostly pneumatic tools, though we did have a few of those battery powered tools during the last few years. The shop where I used to work (until just 3 years ago) still uses pneumatic tools, and has air lines dropping from the ceiling in every service bay. In my home shop, I only use hand tools. I don't need to be in a hurry, and enjoy doing things the proper way. My only cordless tool is a DeWalt drill.
I've never even seen the second tool. never had any problems removing spring clamps with a pair of Channellocks.
I had pneumatic angle grinders at work, and have a corded angle grinder at home. I removed and threw away the guard on the one I have at home. They can be dangerous trying to get them into the proper position with that guard. Don't use power tools casually or carelessly. Most of them are extremely dangerous when used that way. I once cut an entire car in half with an angle grinder.
I have several multimeters, both analog and digital, including a clamp type for checking amp draw without a physical connection to the wire. I do not have a Fluke meter, like what we had at work. They cost a fortune, and there seems to be nothing special about them. The place I worked was a government fleet shop. I finally found out why they used those expensive Fluke meters. It's because they have been making the same models forever, and the government literally based their specifications around them, and they won't work with other brands. Your tax money at work.
I do have a couple of stethoscopes. Sometimes they are helpful, sometimes not. You need to be familiar with them. They can amplify a normal noise and make you think something is wrong when it isn't. But they are reasonably inexpensive and worth having.
I don't have a power probe. I have something much simpler. Actually a couple of them. One is store bought, one is homemade. I have an "icepick" tester. It looks like an icepick with a clear handle. There is a 12V bulb in the clear plastic handle, and a ground wire with an alligator clip on it. You clamp that to a ground, then use the icepick part to pierce an insulated wire to see if there is voltage in it. If there is, the light bulb will come on. The other one works the same way, but is home made, using a small sewing needle soldered to a wire. It's for use on very small diameter wires to prevent damaging the insulation. An ohmmeter will check a bulb. Applying power and ground to a 12V motor will tell if it is any good. I really don't need time savers in my home shop, though they may come in handy for a professional.
Those relays look like a good idea, but I have never seen one. There are so many different types and sizes of relays, with different prong angles and spacing, it seems like you would have to have an awful lot of them. And I've noticed a lot of new cars are coming with relays soldered onto a circuit board. They are almost always too small, fail often, and require replacement of the entire board.
I must have had over a dozen jump start packs. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. They also don't last very long. If you have a completely dead battery, you will need to remove one of the cables from the battery to take it out of the circuit. A dead battery will not allow the power from the jump start pack to reach the starter. I have an old school battery charger/starter. It is a large device on wheels with a handle do you can push it around. It plugs into 120V AC, and can put out enough 12V DC amperage to start an engine. All gas stations use to have them. I prefer devices that only do one thing. I have a 12V air compressor that connects to a car battery using alligator clamps. I have a jump start pack that is just a jump start pack. And I have a light that is just a light. I have a 12V halogen light that connects to a car battery with alligator clamps. Jump start packs are so unreliable that I suggest you check the Project Farm channel for the latest update on which one he thinks is the best. Even if you get the best, don't be too surprised if it fails. I actually recommend getting a large car battery and a set of jumper cables. Keep the battery on a maintainer, so it will always be charged. Yes, they are big and heavy, but they do have enough power to start a car.
We had a smoke machine at work. I've never had one myself.
We had tens of thousands of $$$ worth of computerized diagnostic equipment and vehicle specific software at work. I don't even have a basic code reader. I hate that kind of thing. Out of my 5 vehicles, only one has a computer in it, and that is my 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis. I have had over 30 years experience with the Ford Crown Vic (same as the Mercury version) So far the CEL has never came on in mine. If it does, I could probably guess what the problem was. My son in law has a code reader if all else fails. I'm not into computer cars. The Ford Panther cars are pretty much the ONLY computer cars I know about that don't have constant check engine light issues. At work we would get 7-8 vehicles a day coming in that were still running fine, but had the check engine light on. It was absolutely maddening. But almost none of them were Crown Vics. And when it was, it was almost always the MAF sensor. They are a weak point on the Ford 4.6L 2 valve.
As a DIY guy, I bought an XTool D7 scan tool, and so far, I'm pretty happy with it. It's a bit cheaper than the similar Autel model, and it paid for itself in the first week when I used it to program new immobilizers and fobs for my wife's Subaru.
I have one I just bought, and I was a bit disappointed in playing around with it and inadvertently resetting the mileage on my car. I had set it to miles, and it converted it into a pseudo kilometer conversion (it was NOT km's that's for sure). I just felt that this was something stupid that should have never left the shop without this kind of testing.
@@jum5238 Weird. I know that feature is controversial for ethical reasons, but I didn't know it doesn't actually work lol
No matter how many tools you have, you always want more.
I bought one of those weird hose clamp pliers months back when I had to replace my previous car's radiator. There were some hose clamps that I could not get to at ALL with regular pliers. $30 at my local auto parts store, and they paid for themselves the first time I used them. They're never leaving my toolbox, especially if I can ever afford to start collecting a few 90s Japanese cars. I'm going to reach for them first, every single time I have to do a spring-type hose clamp, because even the clamps that are right there up at the very top can be made short work of by those things. They saved me so much time and sanity the first time I used them.
If you have a nice air-compressor don't waste your money on cordless unless your already on that battery platform.
I agree the smaller size air stuff is cheap and lasts longer my mechanic friend is still running his IR 2235 he does bust out his M18 hi torque for big jobs but with cars getting more compact in the engine bay the air tools do work well and last very long if oiled
5:10 I agree 100% on the angle grinder. I spent 13 years doing residential construction and remodeling. I’ve been a merchant mariner for 14 years and angle grinders have been in use on a weekly if not daily basis.
I feel so much more confident after watching this, great video.
Nothing happens in the shop without the most important tool , me lol
we've got a full tool-box at my college's automotive program lol
@@nickaa827 about as useful as a bag of hammers
for a first scan tool, I recommend the otofix D1 or D1 lite. I got a lite for $320 on sale, normally ~$420. The lite is basically just smaller screen and has a slower processor. The non-lite is ~$750. These ARE Autels in function. The interface is AUTEL and you get software updates directly from AUTEL. Even the lite DOES have bi-directional controls (they don’t advertise that on their site but it was recently added in an update). 2 things they lack are TPMS activation and any programming/coding.
Basically, get one of these and upgrade to a much more expensive scan tool later if you really need those functions.
Oh and they have 3 years free updates instead of the 2 for the AUTELs
Geiger Counter a must have 😅
Thank you, this was just the video I needed. I was wondering today what tools should I buy to start working on my own car.
The name on the video should be “MY EXOTIC TOOLS”
You need 1000 10mm
Damg beat me to it
So, what do you get the 86 year old Dad who's still running his auto shop for his birthday? Why, a grab bag of 10mm sockets, of course!!!
😂😂😂😂 so true bro 😂
I had to buy one today lol
Not if you clean your shop😂
I really like this guy. Whomever is a close friend to him, is very lucky.
Who's still watching this is 2023?
Right. Everybody knows it’s 2016.
Wattayagot, a T.A.R.D.I.S.? LOL
Seek help
2023? wasnt even born in 2023
Guess this means you didn't get a new calendar for Christmas? So I guess the one "tool" nobody needs is the mountain gorilla to torque that oil pan drain plug to 800 pounds?
Watching it in 2022.
The 1/2" impact gun I use as a DIY guy is an older DeWalt NiCd unit that I bought years ago. It used to be pretty weak. I've since put an M18 adapter in it and run Milwaukee batteries in it. It works way better with the M18 battery! Still nothing compared to the M18 Fuel impact.
Thank you! The hardest part of replacing the water pump on my Dodge Cummins is as removing the radiator spring clamps.
I am a retired mechanic and this is an excellent list of tools. Have every one of them in my toolbox.
Most all of these tools aid in quickly and properly diagnosing your issue. Diagnosing, the most valuable skill of any mechanic.
14:03 Not necessarily. Maybe with THAT over priced snapon machine, but with a home made smoker and a single cigarette you can do it much MUCH cheaper. Ive also seen people use a "Ball canning Jar" and a soldering iron, placed to wet cloth to make smoke inside. Rubber aquarium hoses or the like. About 5$ (well maybe now it may be more cigs are outrageously expensive) vs $2,340 for the Snapon one.
I've made my own as well with PVC 4" pipes, capped, with nichrome wire to heat up the oil, with inlet and outlet for air. Need a pressure regulator as well, to not blow things out.
Great list. I'd never even heard of that relay tester before.
I have a battery impact wrench, which is godsend in my little hobbyist workshop. But, if I had the space, and was using it regularly, I would probably still buy a compressor. Because there are so many tools and other equipment that can be run when you have air; different size impact wrenches, sanders, bead blasting cabinet, CV boot spreader, etc.
For the Multimeter I strongly recommend the Fluke 88AV. It's focused on automotive work.
I do like battery tools, but in the home shop I like air and plug in stuff, most of the time I don't need the convenience of a cordless tool and the reliability and power of corded stuff when I only use it a few times a month makes it easy to justify rolling out a cord or hose when you do need it. Glad your Fluke meter landed high up there, you can hardly even diagnose a 1940's charging system without a good multimeter, I don't even check my mail without mine.
Aside from my dad, I had a lot of mentors, so I never feel alone when I get temporary stumped.
Like it or not, but I’m not in industry, but via your content, I have a new mentor: You. 😊😅
I learned to fix Tube & Transistor TVs, and assembled Heathkit stuff & trained on Simpson multimeters.
If you heat wrap the stethoscope shaft, it helps with the extra noise.
I think Scotty Kilmer uses the same scan tool that requires a subscription.
You & Mrs Wizard seem to have a great accounting system & lifts are important too.
I’m honestly surprised that you work on almost every car, and have enough space & lifts to accommodate projects.
Best thing is good work, no attitude from customers/clients & a good accounting system.
I love how you mentor your junior mechanics & maybe even sometimes learn from them. 👍
“By felisha ! “ Had me dying. Thanks for the solid content.
I did a cooling system overhaul a few months ago and that spring clamp tool would have been a God send. Definitely buying one. Contorting my wrist that day is probably how I injured it. Thanks!