I used 0.22ohm resistors. I removed the existing factory resistors and soldered mine directly to the board. I have LUYED led bulbs all around, and the fix worked perfectly. Thank you!
This also worked for me on my 2008 Tundra. HOWEVER don't make the same mistake I did at first, which was to buy the wrong resistors on Amazon. Even though I typed in "0.15 OHM resistor", it took me to 15 OHM resistors, which I bought without noticing. I soldered them in and no dice. Super frustrated. Then as I was troubleshooting I realized my error on the buy. I bought the correct 0.15 OHM resistors that the OP linked to, and those worked great! Thanks for the walkthrough!
So...Before!!!!!! I found out they make a bulb with everything built in it I took the gamble of your instruction and "IT WORKED!" Your soldering actually looks better than mine. Still works! Thank you! very much.
Thanks for the video. I had some 0.24 Ohm 2W resistors laying around so I put them in parallel for 0.12 Ohms for each spot. Worked great. I am using different LED turn signal bulbs for both front and back.
I was just reading about this mod on the tundra talk forum. Glad to have found your video here thank you so much. I don't care so much about the hyper flash on the exterior but the fast clicking relay in the cab is extremely annoying. And the W.A.F. is extremely low (Wife Acceptance Factor)
Hey Man, just wanted to come back and give you a BIG THANKS once again. Just did this mod and fixed the hyper and your guide here is spot-on and extremely helpful. I make videos myself, but I don't think I would have done as good a job as you did here.
I put the Alla LED (from Amazon) amber LED flasher bulbs front and back on my 2010 Tundra, and this mod worked great with the .15 Ohm resistors. I thought it was easier to mechanically wrap the resistor wires around the cut posts, apply flux, then solder in place (technique used in soldering amp components).
That’s an easy way to solder that joint. A little tight in there. I melted one of the orange colored micro relays. I think that why I have no power to anything at left rear tail light. It was working fine before I started soldering the 0.15 ohm resistors 🤦🏼♂️
I know this was few years ago. But the sylvania zevo are an excellent led bulb upgrades. Not the brightest but its design to increase the reliability and longevity.
Great tutorial!!! I removed the two buss bars (factory resistors) completely and replaced them with 0.22 ohm 1watt resistor and it worked perfectly. I now get 89 flashes per minute instead of the hyper flash that was around 140 (illegal according to some states, 120 flashes is maximum). I wonder if it would slow it down a bit more if I either add another resistors in parallel dropping the resistance to 0.11 ohm or series and raise to 0.44 ohm? I was happy with the 89 flashes so I left it at that and installed all panels back. I prefer this method over stupid 50watt 6ohm resistors on each LED bulb and sometimes that doesn’t even work. The whole idea behind LEDs is to be efficient and use less wattage yet you strap a damn 6ohm short that draws 2.4amps/34watts just in case you wonder why those damn things get hotter than the old bulbs that are less than 20watts.
Worked great, just remember the resisters have to be soldered in one direction. If your blinkers don't work or maybe just the left works then take our the relay unsolder the resister and turn it around!
Great video but unfortunately I didn't find it until after I'd installed the LEDs in my 2013 Tundra and caused the hyperflash. The 0.15ohm resistors didn't work in my case, well worked on the left signal but not the right and the hazards didn't work. I also had to file a little off the bulb housing to get it to fit so can't return them and get your recommended ones. I soldered the bars back in place and put the normal filament bulbs in so back to square one. You mentioned in one of your other replies about increasing the size of the resistor but what formula did you use? Many thanks.
I did this, and it works great for turning signals, but when I went and got my truck washed, and the worker turned on the emergency lights on as my 07 tundra was going through automatic car wash. After sometimes, the emergency lights stuck in turning on position without blinking. I then have to turn the emergency off to used the turn signal normally again. Is that going to happen when using emergency lights?
I would almost think that having all 4 signals going at once generated too much heat or the resistance was too high for the modification. I am able to use my 4 ways for extended amounts of time (loading/unloading) so not sure what would cause this.
To my understanding, the hazard lights operate on a different circuit, so they should be unaffected, but I could be wrong. On the other hand, the resistance on the circuit may be slightly too high. Bear in mind, resistance changes with heat. Lower resistance makes blinking faster. Higher resistance makes blinking slower. If resistance is too high, your lights might not blink at all.
Look good you did a great job thanks for sharing your experiences. I have questions i would like to know if the 2 resistors works for the 2 front and 2 rear signal.
Yep!! Those two resisters on the board handle front and rear turn signals as long as the LED bulbs you choose draw adequate voltage. That’s why I listed the bulbs I bought, they work perfectly.
@@minter66 I'm trying to do my 2012 tacoma. How do I do the math to get the resistance of the resistor that I need? measure the resistance of each bulb and add it up to get the resistance of the resistor i need? or is it just the resistance of one bulb?
@@previouslybearsinhawaii Add four up together, then divide by two (unless the Tacoma is wired differently and only has one resistor) Whatever you get is the Ohm resistance for each resistor. You may not find an exact value resistor so a little more resistance is not bad, too little causes hyper flash. Make sure to measure resistance with both parking lights illuminated and then with full turn signal illuminated. Take the larger value. You May want to read through this website If you want to get exact science: www.evilmadscientist.com/2012/resistors-for-leds/ A formula is posted based on voltage, which obviously we are 12V You’d need to know the Vf of the LED bulbs Honestly just doing the Ohm resistance math/division should ballpark where you need to be
So on my 2013 tundra I only swapped out the front headlight for new already assembled projector leds and ol & behold the thing gave me hyper flash. My rear lights are still stock so now I’m wondering what I can do to fix the hyper flash while still keeping the stock rear headlights?
Hyper flash is an indication that there is not enough resistance to slow down the LED bulbs. Since you’re only switching to LEDs on the front, you may have reduced the flasher unit too much, you need to increase the ohms resistance.
Sure, The iBrightstars for some reason lit up more LEDs than I anticipated when in parking light mode. This reduced the resistance they created when activating the flasher mode and they hyper flashed. I didn’t notice this until I was driving at night. During the day, they flash normally since they weren’t being partially lit with the head lights on
Thanks for the reply. So did you just swap in some Zevo bulbs on a hunch and they worked? I wonder if the iBrightstar bulbs would have worked if the resistors were of a higher resistance.
@@Michael.80 Yep, once I saw the hyper flash I put in Zevo's and noticed they didn't light up as much when the parking lights were on = more resistance when flashing. I bet if I had added higher ohm resisters to the flasher module, I could have run iBrightStars all the way around. I will admit the Zevo's are not as bright as the iBrightStars.
@@minter66hello, I was just reading this regarding that same issue since I wanted ibrightstars all the way around as the zevos just ain’t cutting it. Which ohm resistors do you recommend I get for me to be able to run brightstars all the way around?
I think I screwed the pouch here. 🤦🏼♂️installed the 0.15 ohm resistors on the existing factory resistors. Everything works fine but NO power to left rear tail light. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🥴
@@minter66 Thank you min. It’s strange. Right turn signals and emergency flashers work perfectly well on the right side of the truck. The only lamps not responding is left rear. Flash rate is fine 1 per second. I think I damaged the factory relay circuit board I guess? I’m out $60.00 bucks. 🤦🏼♂️ I bought a few dozen 0.15 ohm resisters too. If anyone needs any I’ll send them to you.
I cautiously say yes, only because from 2007-2021, Toyota pretty much didn’t change the Tundra except cosmetically. I would image the electrical locations and functions remained the same.
@@minter66 just did it and fixed the hyper flash. I ran into an odd thing though. The first time I started the truck up after putting it back together. The truck started but immediately turned off. I tried it again and the truck started normal. I’m not sure what that was all about
@@minter66 i tried with both the hyperflash was not there when the headlights were on and off. also drove the truck around with the headlights on and off and tried the turn signal both times and no hyperflash. just wondered why the truck started the one time and immediately turned off. freaked me out. checked the AMP 30A fuse and it wasnt burned out, so idk what happened. fwiw, im using led's all around. brightstars in the rear and alla 3157 ambers for the front turn signals.
I bought a Tundra with after market head and tail lights plus switback fog lights that also blink, so the previous owner def enjoyed upgrading. Left side has hyperflasing right has intermittent single flash. Do you think this mod will remedy?
As far as I know, the relay box is in the same location in the 3rd generation Tundras (2014+) Does your 2017 use two bulbs for the rear flasher or just one? You have to vary it by load. I can't remember if both the stop and turn flash at the same time or not
Then those resistors should be effective for one bulb front and rear like my 2007 Tundra. If you want to DM me your address, I'll send out two to you. I have 28 extras that won't be used.
@@minter66 would this work on a 2014 Tundra? I installed resistor on front LED and I get hyper flash when headlights are on. Prior I was running LED on rear only ,they were hyper flash ready from factory and front were stock oem bulbs and had no problem.
Could be a few things: 1) Are all flashers LED? That happened to me when I left an incandescent in. 2) Are all 4 pegs of the resistor fully soldered and not loose or too thin? 3) Are you using the same bulbs that I installed? Or are you using different brands? Essentially the load or resistance is too high. Too low of resistance and they hyper flash. Something, somewhere is resisting more than the capacitors can handle
@@minter66 yes all of the bulbs are led. The rear ones have resistors already inline I wonder if that could be the problem. I tried to solder them evenly. Looked like I did a pretty good job. For now I just soldered the original pieces back in. Thanks for the reply!! I got the bulbs from Alla lighting
@@mot8999 yeah, it’s your rear bulbs causing the problem. Try some bulbs that don’t have any type of artificial resistance. Zevo bulbs are sold at Oreillys if you have them in your arena
Did you use different bulbs? When the headlights are on, the bulbs you have turn partially on. So when your signals “flash” there is less draw when flashing vs the whole bulb turning on when headlights are off. You need either higher ohm resistors or different bulbs that don’t “light up” as much when parking lights are on
@@minter66 I appreciate the prompt response! Yeah I am using different bulbs I found your video after the bulbs were installed so I figured id at least attempt with the ones I already had. Thought I was golden until I turned the headlights on. Well its half fixed until the new bulbs come in. Thank you much!
@@TooElitePete Yes, I think even using them both in front and rear with .15 would work. The Zevos don’t light up as much when the headlights are on, leaving for more the amp draw when illuminated.
Eventually they fail, especially here in Texas with the extreme heat. The resistors melt/overload and then they hyper flash. I had some and they failed in 6 months.
That defeats the whole purpose of LED lights. LED light draw much less current. A resister at the lamp creates heat. That’s what we’re trying to avoid. Having resistors at the source of the output (flasher relay) is best.
@@KDFRxpo2an led bulb with a built in resistor is a must have if u want pure plug and play ultra bright led that draws between 21W-30W led. From aluminum heatsink with ceramic to integrated cooling fan. And update decoding time to eliminate the hyperflash. Those designs are more for enthusiasts for ultra bright lights. A plug and play external resistors will do its own job, while the led bulbs will do its own job to dissipate only. Not every vehicle has ole flasher relay nowadays. I wish all vehicles have oek flasher relay. But now they control by the BCM. That’s why u get resistor to mount the wires, or plug and play version, or get a led bulb with a built in resistor for more pure plug and play solution. Or if ur vehicle has oem flasher relay, just swap with led flasher relay. There’s alot of ways u can do nowadays.
I know this was few years ago. But the sylvania zevo are an excellent led bulb upgrades. Not the brightest but its design to increase the reliability and longevity.
I used 0.22ohm resistors. I removed the existing factory resistors and soldered mine directly to the board. I have LUYED led bulbs all around, and the fix worked perfectly. Thank you!
This also worked for me on my 2008 Tundra. HOWEVER don't make the same mistake I did at first, which was to buy the wrong resistors on Amazon. Even though I typed in "0.15 OHM resistor", it took me to 15 OHM resistors, which I bought without noticing. I soldered them in and no dice. Super frustrated. Then as I was troubleshooting I realized my error on the buy. I bought the correct 0.15 OHM resistors that the OP linked to, and those worked great! Thanks for the walkthrough!
So...Before!!!!!! I found out they make a bulb with everything built in it I took the gamble of your instruction and "IT WORKED!" Your soldering actually looks better than mine. Still works!
Thank you! very much.
Awesome, as long as it gets the job done!
And the bulbs with the built in resistors failed me after about 6 months. Texas heat can be brutal.
@@minter66 Good to know. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I had some 0.24 Ohm 2W resistors laying around so I put them in parallel for 0.12 Ohms for each spot. Worked great. I am using different LED turn signal bulbs for both front and back.
I was just reading about this mod on the tundra talk forum. Glad to have found your video here thank you so much. I don't care so much about the hyper flash on the exterior but the fast clicking relay in the cab is extremely annoying. And the W.A.F. is extremely low (Wife Acceptance Factor)
Ōin Taylor I have learned that the WAF is an incredibly volatile and constantly changing variable, you do not want to upset this parameter
@@minter66 I need to watch your Dasaita video also
Hey Man, just wanted to come back and give you a BIG THANKS once again. Just did this mod and fixed the hyper and your guide here is spot-on and extremely helpful. I make videos myself, but I don't think I would have done as good a job as you did here.
I put the Alla LED (from Amazon) amber LED flasher bulbs front and back on my 2010 Tundra, and this mod worked great with the .15 Ohm resistors. I thought it was easier to mechanically wrap the resistor wires around the cut posts, apply flux, then solder in place (technique used in soldering amp components).
Maybe I should try this!!
That’s an easy way to solder that joint. A little tight in there. I melted one of the orange colored micro relays. I think that why I have no power to anything at left rear tail light. It was working fine before I started soldering the 0.15 ohm resistors 🤦🏼♂️
Test
@@mot8999 I have some 0.15 ohm resisters if you need a couple
You put legit effort into this video to make a quality tutorial. Extra props for using Milwaukee cordless tools. Subbed and voted! Thanks!
Thanks for the sub!
@@minter66
Welcome!
Thanks for the informations. I actually bought a LED relay. So I will be installing it.
A plug and play unit?
@minter66 yes it is.
@@spicythai2000 can you post a link to it?
@minter66 the relay does not fit the connector. I got this from Amazon.
Any link?
I know this was few years ago. But the sylvania zevo are an excellent led bulb upgrades. Not the brightest but its design to increase the reliability and longevity.
MINTER VISION your video help me a lot. I just did on my 2007 tundra and it is working correctly. Thanks again 👍👍.
lino m awesome! Glad it helped!
@@minter66 yes it helps me thank you.
Great tutorial!!! I removed the two buss bars (factory resistors) completely and replaced them with 0.22 ohm 1watt resistor and it worked perfectly. I now get 89 flashes per minute instead of the hyper flash that was around 140 (illegal according to some states, 120 flashes is maximum). I wonder if it would slow it down a bit more if I either add another resistors in parallel dropping the resistance to 0.11 ohm or series and raise to 0.44 ohm?
I was happy with the 89 flashes so I left it at that and installed all panels back. I prefer this method over stupid 50watt 6ohm resistors on each LED bulb and sometimes that doesn’t even work. The whole idea behind LEDs is to be efficient and use less wattage yet you strap a damn 6ohm short that draws 2.4amps/34watts just in case you wonder why those damn things get hotter than the old bulbs that are less than 20watts.
Thank you man, it helped me too, even though I have different brands of LEDs in my Tundra.
I’m curious what you used for your front bulbs. I’m growing tired of my Zevos
Does it matter how many watts it is? Or any .15 ohm will work?
Thank you!! Worked like a charm. Glad I found your video.
Solid advice it worked like a charm. Thanks Boss
Thank you very much for this video. It worked out great for me.
Worked great, just remember the resisters have to be soldered in one direction. If your blinkers don't work or maybe just the left works then take our the relay unsolder the resister and turn it around!
That’s not true. Resistors are not directional
Another video I saw the guy shaved metal off those bars and it changed the resistance of them. Great video though!
Great video but unfortunately I didn't find it until after I'd installed the LEDs in my 2013 Tundra and caused the hyperflash. The 0.15ohm resistors didn't work in my case, well worked on the left signal but not the right and the hazards didn't work. I also had to file a little off the bulb housing to get it to fit so can't return them and get your recommended ones. I soldered the bars back in place and put the normal filament bulbs in so back to square one. You mentioned in one of your other replies about increasing the size of the resistor but what formula did you use? Many thanks.
I did this, and it works great for turning signals, but when I went and got my truck washed, and the worker turned on the emergency lights on as my 07 tundra was going through automatic car wash. After sometimes, the emergency lights stuck in turning on position without blinking. I then have to turn the emergency off to used the turn signal normally again. Is that going to happen when using emergency lights?
I would almost think that having all 4 signals going at once generated too much heat or the resistance was too high for the modification. I am able to use my 4 ways for extended amounts of time (loading/unloading) so not sure what would cause this.
To my understanding, the hazard lights operate on a different circuit, so they should be unaffected, but I could be wrong. On the other hand, the resistance on the circuit may be slightly too high. Bear in mind, resistance changes with heat. Lower resistance makes blinking faster. Higher resistance makes blinking slower. If resistance is too high, your lights might not blink at all.
It worked. I had a difficult time soldering tho. What brand of soldering gun are you using? What solder? Btw...Thank you👍
Look good you did a great job thanks for sharing your experiences. I have questions i would like to know if the 2 resistors works for the 2 front and 2 rear signal.
Yep!! Those two resisters on the board handle front and rear turn signals as long as the LED bulbs you choose draw adequate voltage. That’s why I listed the bulbs I bought, they work perfectly.
@@minter66 I'm trying to do my 2012 tacoma. How do I do the math to get the resistance of the resistor that I need? measure the resistance of each bulb and add it up to get the resistance of the resistor i need? or is it just the resistance of one bulb?
@@previouslybearsinhawaii Add four up together, then divide by two (unless the Tacoma is wired differently and only has one resistor)
Whatever you get is the Ohm resistance for each resistor. You may not find an exact value resistor so a little more resistance is not bad, too little causes hyper flash.
Make sure to measure resistance with both parking lights illuminated and then with full turn signal illuminated. Take the larger value.
You May want to read through this website If you want to get exact science:
www.evilmadscientist.com/2012/resistors-for-leds/
A formula is posted based on voltage, which obviously we are 12V
You’d need to know the Vf of the LED bulbs
Honestly just doing the Ohm resistance math/division should ballpark where you need to be
@@minter66 perfect thank you!!!
So on my 2013 tundra I only swapped out the front headlight for new already assembled projector leds and ol & behold the thing gave me hyper flash. My rear lights are still stock so now I’m wondering what I can do to fix the hyper flash while still keeping the stock rear headlights?
Hyper flash is an indication that there is not enough resistance to slow down the LED bulbs. Since you’re only switching to LEDs on the front, you may have reduced the flasher unit too much, you need to increase the ohms resistance.
Could you explain why you used a mix of Zevo bulbs and iBrightstar bulbs? Specifically, why not iBrightstar bulbs in both the rear and front?
Sure,
The iBrightstars for some reason lit up more LEDs than I anticipated when in parking light mode. This reduced the resistance they created when activating the flasher mode and they hyper flashed. I didn’t notice this until I was driving at night.
During the day, they flash normally since they weren’t being partially lit with the head lights on
Thanks for the reply. So did you just swap in some Zevo bulbs on a hunch and they worked? I wonder if the iBrightstar bulbs would have worked if the resistors were of a higher resistance.
@@Michael.80 Yep, once I saw the hyper flash I put in Zevo's and noticed they didn't light up as much when the parking lights were on = more resistance when flashing.
I bet if I had added higher ohm resisters to the flasher module, I could have run iBrightStars all the way around. I will admit the Zevo's are not as bright as the iBrightStars.
@@minter66hello, I was just reading this regarding that same issue since I wanted ibrightstars all the way around as the zevos just ain’t cutting it. Which ohm resistors do you recommend I get for me to be able to run brightstars all the way around?
It was right around 1:30 in this video when I said, aw hell naw. I'm just going to get the in lines lol
I think I screwed the pouch here. 🤦🏼♂️installed the 0.15 ohm resistors on the existing factory resistors. Everything works fine but NO power to left rear tail light. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🥴
Remove the resistors and see if you regain flasher functionality. There may be so much resistance it cannot power on.
@@minter66 Thank you min. It’s strange. Right turn signals and emergency flashers work perfectly well on the right side of the truck. The only lamps not responding is left rear. Flash rate is fine 1 per second. I think I damaged the factory relay circuit board I guess? I’m out $60.00 bucks. 🤦🏼♂️ I bought a few dozen 0.15 ohm resisters too. If anyone needs any I’ll send them to you.
Does this same technique works for 2020 Tundra?
I cautiously say yes, only because from 2007-2021, Toyota pretty much didn’t change the Tundra except cosmetically. I would image the electrical locations and functions remained the same.
how has it held up? any issues? im about to try this out on my 2015 tundra.
Still working perfectly. I wondered how well my soldering job would handle Colorado, but I off-roaded for several bumpy hours with no issues
@@minter66 just did it and fixed the hyper flash. I ran into an odd thing though. The first time I started the truck up after putting it back together. The truck started but immediately turned off.
I tried it again and the truck started normal. I’m not sure what that was all about
@@RICEY702 make sure to test with both headlights on and off. The park function of the lights (depending on the bulb) may draw additional ohms.
@@minter66 i tried with both the hyperflash was not there when the headlights were on and off. also drove the truck around with the headlights on and off and tried the turn signal both times and no hyperflash.
just wondered why the truck started the one time and immediately turned off. freaked me out. checked the AMP 30A fuse and it wasnt burned out, so idk what happened.
fwiw, im using led's all around. brightstars in the rear and alla 3157 ambers for the front turn signals.
I bought a Tundra with after market head and tail lights plus switback fog lights that also blink, so the previous owner def enjoyed upgrading. Left side has hyperflasing right has intermittent single flash. Do you think this mod will remedy?
is the box in the same location on the 2017 Tundra and do think I could get away with the same resistor
As far as I know, the relay box is in the same location in the 3rd generation Tundras (2014+)
Does your 2017 use two bulbs for the rear flasher or just one? You have to vary it by load. I can't remember if both the stop and turn flash at the same time or not
@@minter66 just 1 bulb for turn signal in rear
Then those resistors should be effective for one bulb front and rear like my 2007 Tundra.
If you want to DM me your address, I'll send out two to you. I have 28 extras that won't be used.
@@minter66 would this work on a 2014 Tundra? I installed resistor on front LED and I get hyper flash when headlights are on. Prior I was running LED on rear only ,they were hyper flash ready from factory and front were stock oem bulbs and had no problem.
Just tried this on my 2007 tundra and it didn’t work. Not sure why but it only flashed once and then didn’t flash again. Maybe a different resistor
Could be a few things:
1) Are all flashers LED? That happened to me when I left an incandescent in.
2) Are all 4 pegs of the resistor fully soldered and not loose or too thin?
3) Are you using the same bulbs that I installed? Or are you using different brands?
Essentially the load or resistance is too high. Too low of resistance and they hyper flash. Something, somewhere is resisting more than the capacitors can handle
@@minter66 yes all of the bulbs are led. The rear ones have resistors already inline I wonder if that could be the problem. I tried to solder them evenly. Looked like I did a pretty good job. For now I just soldered the original pieces back in. Thanks for the reply!! I got the bulbs from Alla lighting
@@mot8999 yeah, it’s your rear bulbs causing the problem. Try some bulbs that don’t have any type of artificial resistance. Zevo bulbs are sold at Oreillys if you have them in your arena
@@minter66 I’ll go get a pair tomorrow and see what happens!!! Thanks for the info!!
What happens to the flash pattern if on of the LED bulbs burns out?
They will hyper flash just as if an incandescent bulb goes out
Anybody have a clue why mine still hyper flash when the engine is running and headlights on? Any other combo its fixed no hyper flash.
Did you use different bulbs? When the headlights are on, the bulbs you have turn partially on. So when your signals “flash” there is less draw when flashing vs the whole bulb turning on when headlights are off. You need either higher ohm resistors or different bulbs that don’t “light up” as much when parking lights are on
@@minter66 I appreciate the prompt response! Yeah I am using different bulbs I found your video after the bulbs were installed so I figured id at least attempt with the ones I already had. Thought I was golden until I turned the headlights on. Well its half fixed until the new bulbs come in. Thank you much!
@@minter66 what ohm would you recommend? I am using Zevo 4157 Reds all around, would those work with the .15 resistors?
@@TooElitePete Yes, I think even using them both in front and rear with .15 would work. The Zevos don’t light up as much when the headlights are on, leaving for more the amp draw when illuminated.
why not just get the ones with built in resitors?
Eventually they fail, especially here in Texas with the extreme heat. The resistors melt/overload and then they hyper flash. I had some and they failed in 6 months.
That defeats the whole purpose of LED lights. LED light draw much less current. A resister at the lamp creates heat. That’s what we’re trying to avoid. Having resistors at the source of the output (flasher relay) is best.
@@KDFRxpo2an led bulb with a built in resistor is a must have if u want pure plug and play ultra bright led that draws between 21W-30W led. From aluminum heatsink with ceramic to integrated cooling fan.
And update decoding time to eliminate the hyperflash. Those designs are more for enthusiasts for ultra bright lights.
A plug and play external resistors will do its own job, while the led bulbs will do its own job to dissipate only.
Not every vehicle has ole flasher relay nowadays.
I wish all vehicles have oek flasher relay.
But now they control by the BCM. That’s why u get resistor to mount the wires, or plug and play version, or get a led bulb with a built in resistor for more pure plug and play solution.
Or if ur vehicle has oem flasher relay, just swap with led flasher relay.
There’s alot of ways u can do nowadays.
I am trying to do on my 2007 tundra.
Uh, no. I appreciate the video, but I'm not doing this. Too much work for me. I'll just stick with the older bulbs.
It’s really not that hard or long- took me about 30 min
Yeah it’s easy!
Or u can get the anti-flicker or decoder for turn signals by Alla lighting,auxbeam to get rid of the hyperflash that’s plug and play.
I know this was few years ago. But the sylvania zevo are an excellent led bulb upgrades. Not the brightest but its design to increase the reliability and longevity.
Does it matter how many watts it is? Or any .15 ohm will work?
It does if u care more wattage means more brightness means lower lifespan.