Відео

@@Wes_5kyph1 315,000 miles is incredible! Congratulations on getting to that milestone. I hope the videos help. There wasn’t any information at the time on engine replacement for these cars, so that’s why I made the video series. Good luck !

@@minter66 How's your tC doing now? Do you still have it? Mileage? and any issues?

@@Wes_5kyph1 Almost 137,000 miles. Zero issues. I’m amazed I didn’t screw anything up, I was for sure something would have manifested by now. Ended up putting on the TRD springs, TRD strut bar, TRD exhaust and a Dezod Green high flow cat to squeeze out some additional horsepower

@@minter66 nice. I'm a tad worried now how in your thread you said the rav4 engine has a bigger intake manifold than than the tc? would it have been possible to put the tc intake manifold on the rav4 engine to get it to fit?

@@Wes_5kyph1 That's exactly what you do. I swapped the intake from the hydrolocked engine over to the replacement RAV4 engine and it fit perfectly.

@@BradArringtonBoating Thanks for the feedback. As far as performance, It was about 105 outside and I was sitting in the car comfortably at idle. Just turning the fan speed down in combination with hot outside temps “evens” it out and is not overpowered. I haven’t used it as defrost/defog so no feedback there. From the original dash system to this, I’m in LOVE with this system. Higher CFM and more evenly distributed air.

@@minter66 Thanks! We have a 66 with a 5.0 from a Fox body and an aftermarket under dash AC that has plugged refrigerant lines, and the heater fan needs attention. The heater core lines are exceptionally difficult to attach to the stock heater core so this might be killing 3 birds with 1 stone.

@@omaracosta4176 two possible reasons: 1) Your fuel float sank in the tank. Mine was bronze and it developed tiny holes due to the ethanol and filled up. I went with a plastic one and my gauge reads fine now 2) My gauge was defective from the factory. I had to send it in to be repaired. When you remove your fuel sending unit to check your float, ground it and hook it up to your fuel gauge and move the arm up and down to simulate different ohms of resistance to see if the gauge responds.

Thanks much appreciated boss

@@branvan3984 It measures pulses that I calibrated in setup. It has a normal odometer for total miles and trip odometer for filling up

@@minter66 Im sorry, i ment how do you view it. I thought mileage was displayed where you have the tac numbers shown. Do you just click that button to cycle it over to miles? I havent installed mine yet, but was unaware it had a tac.

@@branvan3984 my apologies for misunderstanding your question, you are correct, and you can just click the button into various modes. One is tachometer, one shows trip, one shows full odometer

@@shadwills8594 Thank you for the feedback. I was worried this was entirely too long. Check out part 2 as it deals with the heater core valve and cabling

@@nicksoto4208 possibly - you have to remember that there is a cable inside the sheath and if you secure it using zip ties or other methods like that, you could tighten it down to where the internal cable can’t move.

@@tacowithahat9625 I have a blue LED for high beam.

@@christopherfung1618 no check engine lights

Was there any decrease in gas mileage or any increase in temperature in the engine

@@christopherfung1618 I do not know about engine temp, as I don’t have a temp gauge on my dash. Mpg actually improved. I got 29 the other day with mixed city/highway

Thank you for the positive feedback, that’s mainly the reason why I created these videos, because I couldn’t find any other documentation on installation. My unit performs very well, if you look at the UA-cam short I made, in the garage at idle it was at 35°. I have not been able to test this in a real world scenario because the car is still somewhat apart and illegal to drive as it is.

Thanks for the sub!

@@minter66 Welcome!

That’s the best part of this kit, very minimal “modification”. It is a good amount of work but oh so worth it. This is my second restoration of this car. I originally restored it back in 2008, but the original A/C was just terrible

What was the result?

Glad it helped!

Not any noticeable amount. I’ve sat on the passenger side and at 6’ 2” can still sit comfortably. The old heater box took slightly less space.

Nice. After watching your video I’m thinking about buying this kit. I like the simplicity. The ecu vintage air uses makes me nervous. Now that the weather has warmed up have had a chance to use it?

@@Mike-sh2dg not yet, my gauge cluster is out for repair

Hyper flash is an indication that there is not enough resistance to slow down the LED bulbs. Since you’re only switching to LEDs on the front, you may have reduced the flasher unit too much, you need to increase the ohms resistance.

That’s not true. Resistors are not directional

And to be honest i don’t even know the exact name of the part to try and look for it 😢

@@420MARES420 The part I used the knob from is a Versa AC Heat Climate Control Module Part: 27510-00C31 I bought mine from a Pick-N-Pull and it came out of a 2014 Versa Sedan. It was $29.99 plus tax

Thank you!!!

Are you using the dashskin product?

Currently I am working on upgrading my gauges (which is why they are missing in this video) I’ll have a how to/install video for my Intellitronix gauges hopefully in the next month or so.

I would almost think that having all 4 signals going at once generated too much heat or the resistance was too high for the modification. I am able to use my 4 ways for extended amounts of time (loading/unloading) so not sure what would cause this.

To my understanding, the hazard lights operate on a different circuit, so they should be unaffected, but I could be wrong. On the other hand, the resistance on the circuit may be slightly too high. Bear in mind, resistance changes with heat. Lower resistance makes blinking faster. Higher resistance makes blinking slower. If resistance is too high, your lights might not blink at all.

A plug and play unit?

@minter66 yes it is.

@@spicythai2000 can you post a link to it?

@minter66 the relay does not fit the connector. I got this from Amazon.

Any link?

It came on the replacement engine. But you just need to look for the Toyota RAV4 engine cover

​@minter66 what year would fit?

@@hellokittybites95 2013+

So if you took the time to watch any of my other videos, you’d know that the previous owner hydro locked the engine due to the stock intake ingesting water that was only a few inches high. This prevents that. And what dust? Not doing the Oregon trail here.

@@minter66 if you love run in to deep water, just move ( modified the snorkel up higher) still mess up the catalytic converter though. K &N filter nothing. Dust can make it through then will effect the mas sensor

@@minter66is it Calfornia legal? Will it fit 2008 Scion xB?

@@o8_tOAstEr_xB sorry , not CARB legal. And made for the 2.5L engine, which isn’t in the 2008

It does if u care more wattage means more brightness means lower lifespan.

The actual DashSkin is super light. Can’t be more than a couple of pounds

I do, still drive it every day. I have 126,000 miles on it now

@@minter66 Awesome! I'm going to acquire a manual of the same year from Copart next year and document the process of manual swapping this car. Read your forum post and there's a lot of good information there. Thanks!

Oh you definitely can keep it uncapped. If yours is still in functioning condition and doesn't let outside air in when closed, leave it be. Mine was rusty and hard to move, so I just capped it.

So far it hasn’t loosened or peeled. Two hot summers in a garage that easily gets over 100*F. If I were to do anything different, it would have been the caulk. Instead of using a wet finger, I wish I had used a wet plastic blade to make the caulk more flat/uniform. If you stare at it closely enough, you can see minor waves where the caulk dried in the center. But most people probably wouldn’t notice, and my phone will be there when driving.

The temp slider doesn’t do anything now. Just there for appearance purposes. The left most slider is what controls temperature on heat only, it adjusts how much coolant enters with the heater valve. The A/C system is not a blend system, so you can’t adjust it. It’s either on/cold or off. My thinking is if I get cold, aim vents away or turn the fan down.

I cautiously say yes, only because from 2007-2021, Toyota pretty much didn’t change the Tundra except cosmetically. I would image the electrical locations and functions remained the same.

Remove the resistors and see if you regain flasher functionality. There may be so much resistance it cannot power on.

@@minter66 Thank you min. It’s strange. Right turn signals and emergency flashers work perfectly well on the right side of the truck. The only lamps not responding is left rear. Flash rate is fine 1 per second. I think I damaged the factory relay circuit board I guess? I’m out $60.00 bucks. 🤦🏼‍♂️ I bought a few dozen 0.15 ohm resisters too. If anyone needs any I’ll send them to you.

I just pulled the vacuum yesterday. Once it get it back together and running I’ll let you know. There are instructions on how much to put in

@@minter66 I have mine up and going now and it has 34oz in it. Works great.🥶

Yes