Great video and really excellent explanation of how the anti roll bar actually works. Only point I would add is when I first did this job and tried to undo the old link the nut and bolt just kept turning together. I hadn't realised there was a hex shaped hole in the centre of the bolt end that you needed to hold steady with a hex bit to stop it turning as you undid the nut. Wish my car had those handy tabs as makes this job a lot less fiddly.
Hi John, thank you for your video. Your explanation at each step including the dreaded road test sound before and after was exceptional. The best I’ve seen. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
@@ToTheGarage Hello ,My drop links at the back have totally worn out but every time I go over a bump it sounds like it’s coming from the front. Is that normal?
I often have this problem. We still have some very bad roads here. So very often this repair is needed. But it's easy work. Thanks for showing us the VID.
Hi any idea what’s the next most likely culprit for the knocking sound? I replaced these and has helped but still quite a sound in the front. Will try the anti roll bar bush next
Excellent video, very well explained. Thanks! I know it's a cheap part but do you know if injecting lube into the droplink boot (using a needle) would eliminate the noise as well? Thanks!
good video mine needs doing on passenger side seen they are about £15 each on the daily megane 3 coupe 1.9 diesel. just subbed will have a nosey round rest of your videos
Probably the best video explanation on droplinks I've seen. My 2016 fiesta st has a knock and I'm changing these first. Ford droplinks are 55 each vs aftermarket ones around 15-20. In your experience is it best to stick with oem? That seems ridiculously pricey for drop links
I would go for a known part supplier name/brand but would not feel the need to buy one ion a ford box. These are not complex components. TYpically just two ball joints seperated by the correct length of steel rod
Drive shafts worn on a front wheel drive car or prop shaft joint wear on 4x4 or Rear wheel drive car. Loose wheel nuts. Excessive backlash in the differential. Worn engine mounts. Worn suspension bushes on the driven axle.
I have a clunk on my XKR, I had the front drop links repalced so those are good. I think it comes from the rear end, not sure if it's shock foam mounts or rear sway bar drop links.
I also had a clunk on my jaguar xkr but was coming from the front. I just replaced the upper strut mounts and lower suspension bush and it was fine. However a few days later the noise comes back again from the other side. I'd recommend if it's the front or rear I'd have them done in pairs so it'll save you a trip to a garage again if you can afford. Can be done by yourself but depends on what you want to do with it
EPDM rubber better for ride comfort and low road noise PU better for handling / accuracy of movement. I think i would go EPDM for anything road focused
I got the same problem and no any mechanic can find the problem for last 2 months ... i will try to change the drop links maybe helps .. finger cross thanks for the video
That's pretty straight forward. Ive just been quoted just under £200 for my kia venga. If i did it myself, id save a fortune as eurocar parts do them for £20.49 each. But how do I lift my car up lol
Fantastic video! I had my Elgrand drop links replaced 12 000 miles/12 months ago and I am experiencing the same clonking sound again. Is it normal for them to wear out so soon? Thank you…
They do wear them out quicker than most vehicles as the anti roll bar is VERY stiff to give such a tall vehicle such decent handling. And hence more force and wear on the drop links
I have a metallic dangling noise that randomly happens when the road is uneven or on a small incline..has nothing to do with how fast I go . Any ideas guys !
I would guess that one of the heatsheilds has come loose. If you can provoke it into hapening while stationary by blipping the throttle then its likely that the core of your Catalytic converter has started to braeak down.
@@ToTheGarage ...got under the car shook everything.. nothing's loose. No noise..I tried stepping in the gas hard while In park and everything is fine..I'm stumped
Hi John, how can I contact you with to see whether you can help me with my electrical problems eg all the dash lights on even with no key in the ignition!
Hi Stephen. Sounds like a relay has got stuck. I would just pull relays one at a time until I find the one that makes the lights go out. I would then swap it for another of the same spec. If the problem is gone then it was just a faulty relay. john@tothegarage.co.uk
Hello great channel, Ive really enjoyed watching all your Elgrand videos as ive recently purchased one, its a 2006 with 50000 miles, Ive found the ride to be very bumpy over pot holes (no knocking tho) so im fitting new rear shocks and front struts, ive replaced the rear shocks and had a little quick test drive, but its seems it hasnt made much difference on the rear, but really do need more of a test drive, just started to replace front struts and cant get either of the drop link nuts undone, top has rounded off already, so looks like im cutting them off, such fun lol. Yours came undone so easy I wasnt expecting this problem, my Elgrand glides over speed bumps very well, its just sharp pot holes causes bumpy ride with no knocking I can hear, how did you find your Elgrand drove regarding pot holes and shock absorbers? p.s I really like your garage, yours is a great channel and I like your style 😀
Hi @ramzscy . No I just play with my cars and those of my friends and family. I Have a REAL job that is very demanding and would prevent me from being able to stick to any timeline promises for REAL customers😁.
OU would be incredibly lucky to detect movement without disconnecting at least one of the 4 ball joints. The car will typically always be fractionally out of level and therefore the joints will all be loaded up. So undo one and see what you can feel
The only video I have seen that shows what a worn sway bar link looks like. Well done.
Thanks Charles👍
Oh, I enjoyed the antiroll bar function explanation. Very well explained indeed, pace was excellent!
Thanks👍
Great video and really excellent explanation of how the anti roll bar actually works. Only point I would add is when I first did this job and tried to undo the old link the nut and bolt just kept turning together. I hadn't realised there was a hex shaped hole in the centre of the bolt end that you needed to hold steady with a hex bit to stop it turning as you undid the nut. Wish my car had those handy tabs as makes this job a lot less fiddly.
Hi John, thank you for your video. Your explanation at each step including the dreaded road test sound before and after was exceptional. The best I’ve seen. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Excellent explanations!! Thank you, great teacher ! 👍
Thank you! 😃
@@ToTheGarage
Hello ,My drop links at the back have totally worn out but every time I go over a bump it sounds like it’s coming from the front. Is that normal?
I often have this problem. We still have some very bad roads here. So very often this repair is needed. But it's easy work. Thanks for showing us the VID.
Thanks Udo. Yes our pot hole situation is also very bad. so drop links suffer a lot of punishment
Impressed with faultless camerawork.
Too kind👍
Nice explanation on the sway (anti roll) bar function. I have that exact noise and ordered a pair of drop links even though only one is bad.
Great video with so much detail.
Thank you
Great video. Just ordered drop links for my 20 year old Mitsubishi galant. Looking forward to them arriving and doing the job. Great video. Thanks
Great info, just had an MOT failure on these
Sorry to hear that
superb video. this bloke is a genius.
Finally I understand how they work🎉
Glad it helped👍
Brilliant instruction and explanation. Thank you 🙏
Thanks
Hi any idea what’s the next most likely culprit for the knocking sound? I replaced these and has helped but still quite a sound in the front. Will try the anti roll bar bush next
Excellent video, very well explained. Thanks! I know it's a cheap part but do you know if injecting lube into the droplink boot (using a needle) would eliminate the noise as well? Thanks!
Great video
What a top video...Great Man
One word ..EXCELLENT 🎉😊
Thank you so much 😀
Just had these replaced on my Honda CR V. Drop links??? Whhhaaaattchamean😢...this video is excellent! Thanks 😊
You are welcome
good video mine needs doing on passenger side seen they are about £15 each on the daily megane 3 coupe 1.9 diesel. just subbed will have a nosey round rest of your videos
Thanks Mark👍
Probably the best video explanation on droplinks I've seen. My 2016 fiesta st has a knock and I'm changing these first. Ford droplinks are 55 each vs aftermarket ones around 15-20. In your experience is it best to stick with oem? That seems ridiculously pricey for drop links
I would go for a known part supplier name/brand but would not feel the need to buy one ion a ford box.
These are not complex components. TYpically just two ball joints seperated by the correct length of steel rod
Hi mate, Great video... what would cause a clonking sound when pulling away from a standstill forwards or backwards?
Drive shafts worn on a front wheel drive car or prop shaft joint wear on 4x4 or Rear wheel drive car. Loose wheel nuts. Excessive backlash in the differential. Worn engine mounts. Worn suspension bushes on the driven axle.
Excellent video ive got a 1997 E50 with the same knocking so i will check them I'm an old school mechanic so should be easy enough.
Easy job for anyone who knows their way around a toolbox Stephen👍
Brilliant video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a clunk on my XKR, I had the front drop links repalced so those are good. I think it comes from the rear end, not sure if it's shock foam mounts or rear sway bar drop links.
Could be either but the lower shock mounting eyes have a reputation for becoming quite noisy as they age.
I also had a clunk on my jaguar xkr but was coming from the front. I just replaced the upper strut mounts and lower suspension bush and it was fine. However a few days later the noise comes back again from the other side. I'd recommend if it's the front or rear I'd have them done in pairs so it'll save you a trip to a garage again if you can afford. Can be done by yourself but depends on what you want to do with it
@@xkr-mat I do plan on doing an entire suspension refresh in a few years. Just replace everything that is a wear item.
Great work . I think it's also known as stabiliser link
Yes, you are right
Rear anti roll bar brackets that fit hangers to bar
I am looking for brackets
Excellent video what material is better
Epdm rubber or pu
EPDM rubber better for ride comfort and low road noise PU better for handling / accuracy of movement.
I think i would go EPDM for anything road focused
That’s a great car lift you have can I ask where it was from please great vidoe
Made by Strongman. The model is Clifton
Is it possible to change a drop link without having both front wheels off the ground
This works a lot better if both front wheels are in the air, so there is no twist in the roll bar while changing the two sides.
A good tip Thomas
I got the same problem and no any mechanic can find the problem for last 2 months ... i will try to change the drop links maybe helps .. finger cross thanks for the video
I've just changed the anti roll bar links on my ford transit, took for test drive & one of the ball joints the rubber has come away , faulty part ?
Thanks!
You are welcome
That's pretty straight forward. Ive just been quoted just under £200 for my kia venga. If i did it myself, id save a fortune as eurocar parts do them for £20.49 each. But how do I lift my car up lol
Brilliant man..thank you
You're welcome!
Fantastic video! I had my Elgrand drop links replaced 12 000 miles/12 months ago and I am experiencing the same clonking sound again. Is it normal for them to wear out so soon? Thank you…
They do wear them out quicker than most vehicles as the anti roll bar is VERY stiff to give such a tall vehicle such decent handling. And hence more force and wear on the drop links
@@ToTheGarage thank you
I have a metallic dangling noise that randomly happens when the road is uneven or on a small incline..has nothing to do with how fast I go . Any ideas guys !
I would guess that one of the heatsheilds has come loose. If you can provoke it into hapening while stationary by blipping the throttle then its likely that the core of your Catalytic converter has started to braeak down.
@@ToTheGarage ...got under the car shook everything.. nothing's loose. No noise..I tried stepping in the gas hard while In park and everything is fine..I'm stumped
Hi John, how can I contact you with to see whether you can help me with my electrical problems eg all the dash lights on even with no key in the ignition!
Hi Stephen. Sounds like a relay has got stuck. I would just pull relays one at a time until I find the one that makes the lights go out. I would then swap it for another of the same spec. If the problem is gone then it was just a faulty relay. john@tothegarage.co.uk
Hi John sorry to go off topic but im currently stripping the rear hubs on my xkr2002 bearing set up is new to me any thoughts?
Hello great channel, Ive really enjoyed watching all your Elgrand videos as ive recently purchased one, its a 2006 with 50000 miles, Ive found the ride to be very bumpy over pot holes (no knocking tho) so im fitting new rear shocks and front struts, ive replaced the rear shocks and had a little quick test drive, but its seems it hasnt made much difference on the rear, but really do need more of a test drive, just started to replace front struts and cant get either of the drop link nuts undone, top has rounded off already, so looks like im cutting them off, such fun lol. Yours came undone so easy I wasnt expecting this problem, my Elgrand glides over speed bumps very well, its just sharp pot holes causes bumpy ride with no knocking I can hear, how did you find your Elgrand drove regarding pot holes and shock absorbers? p.s I really like your garage, yours is a great channel and I like your style 😀
Lucid explanation, as usual, John! How does this situation compare with the XK8 ?
VERY similar just with much shorter drop links and one end is just a bolt through a rubber bush rather than a ball joint
Wasup UK, I'm from the US
I took of the nut on the top. Thenut on the bottom just keeps going around and it won't come apart of the top as it seems crooked
I got my Toyota aygo do last year and now they gone again ?
How much that ramp cost u?
About £2500 at the time of purchase.
@@ToTheGarage that’s not cheap will stick to my jack stands lol
Easy until you encounter Renault with Allen key holes in the end of the drop link which can round off.
Ahh RENAULT. Some of my favorite cars and yet some of the most frustrating.
Very informative. Do you accept car repair or its only your hobby?
Hi @ramzscy . No I just play with my cars and those of my friends and family. I Have a REAL job that is very demanding and would prevent me from being able to stick to any timeline promises for REAL customers😁.
Nice info.
Thanks danyo1972
I guess you can't check for movement without disconnecting them?
OU would be incredibly lucky to detect movement without disconnecting at least one of the 4 ball joints. The car will typically always be fractionally out of level and therefore the joints will all be loaded up. So undo one and see what you can feel
Force, not pressure, at time 8:39.
True👍
Thanks mate..
Brill video
Thanks
Renault master 2005
Such unnecessary waffle, u should have showed what's important like how to test if it's worn before taking it off.
You talk to much, yap yap yap
Feel free to mute me.😁