Canik Failure To Feed
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2022
- My new, to me, Canik SC kept locking up and refusing to go into battery. The problem turned out to be the dreaded "hand loaded ammo". But I have used the same recipe for years and never experienced a problem. Why now? What to do? The solution turned out to be pretty straight forward. Kinda.
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Had the same issue with my wife 😅
lmao
my mom just died and my TTI Combat is not returning to battery fresh out of the box unfired and this made me laugh, thanks
Thank you for the information. I was having problems with my Mete MC9 with failure to feed and realized that the defensive ammo I was using, Winchester Defender +P, was getting caught on the hallow point edges. I changed it to Hornandy Critical Defense and like magic there where no more hick ups. I also tested it with Remington FMJ and I had no issues in loading a bullet in the chamber. I realized that the Canik Mete MC9 is a bit finicky when it comes to the ammo you use.
You’re welcome. I had a nice Kimber back in the day that I sold because of this problem. Wish someone had pointed out the solution to me at that time.
Thank you for your video its verry detailed and informative !! I just purchased my Canik tp9 elite and will be using 9mm 147 grain and hopefully I dont have any issues .
Thank you for checking the cause of the problem
Great fix and good to know. Thanks
Very interesting! Thanks for the explanation of the failure to feed and how to correct it.
You’re welcome. It was confusing to me until others helped me understand what was happening. Happy to share.
Great job Jay, Very informative! Thank you
Thank you sir, appreciate the comment.
Hey Jay, great video. Had the exact same problem with my Canik Six Rival.
Shot great with 'factory ammo', but a disaster with reloads.
I was using 125grain Bonded Polymer Jacketed Round Nose heads.
I discovered that the amount of crimp applied whilst seating the bullet was critical.
Backed the crimp off until I got the 'clunk' sound when dropped into the barrel.
Fortunately I had purchased a Lee 9mm Luger die set which included the Lee Factory Crimp Die.
Added that to my Dillon setup after the seating die and have never had the problem again.
Many thanks!
Gary, thanks for the note. Yup. Tight barrel tolerances mean that everything gets more critical. With poly coated rounds you need a wide enough case mouth bellow so you don’t scrape the bullet sides while seating but then a good press crimp to get rid of any resulting bulge. A fine tuning dance. Glad you got it worked out.
Had same issue with my tp9sf.
Fte, found that one specific ammo I had was a bit longer than all others.
I had same fte issue on a m19 carbine replica with same ammo.
Switched ammo on both my canik and the m1. No issues since
Apparently a more common problem than I first realized. Glocks eat anything but quality guns built to tight tolerances may not. A learning process. Frustrating but fun once you figure it out.
awesome and informative video sir 🫡🏆‼️👍🏽
Thanks for the comment. It was really puzzling to me when it first happened, hopefully my sharing will help others that run into a similar situation.
Walther has similar issues. I had some old Corbon that had an OAL to long. Fed thru the PAK-9 fine. Two PPQ's and same with both
It makes sense that well made guns built to tight tolerances could have thus sensitivity, but it was new to me.
Wow I’ve heard that seating the round deeper increases pressure and will cause an explosion.
YES. It is not something to be done … casually. The reloading manuals offer a safe range with “do not exceed” limits. My original loads were pretty mild, well within a safe range. When I started to reduce overall length, I did so slowly and tested them along the way. Then I tuned for accuracy. Originally I was at 5 gr of CFE Pistol. I ended up with the shorter rounds using 4.7 gr and delivering the same basic 1060 fps result. Easy stuff for an experienced reloader, but perhaps not for someone with less experience.
I’m having an issue with hollow points getting caught and not going into the barrel. Getting stuck right before the ramp.
Not going “into” the barrel? Check out my video on nose dive jams. That sounds like what it could be.
The failure to feed on my Caniks are a result of the wide part of the bullet just outside of the case mouth getting stuck in the throat area just before the rifling starts and thus the cartridge doesn’t fully seat. However, that would be after the bullet goes up the feed ramp and into the chamber so it doesn’t sound like your problem.
Hollow points frequently are broader than FMJ based on design. As a result they are often at a shorter OAL to ease chambering. If yours are, that might be part of why your rounds are jamming rather than sliding up the ramp as intended. If you reload, you might try loading them longer but stay within spec.
@@jay1944 nose dive sounds about right. Right before the feed ramp it sits lower. It happens one out of every 50 shots now. Ugh. Mind linking me?
I’m old. Not good at this stuff. Have no idea how to link you. The video is “1911 nose dive jams”. If you search on me I would guess you would see it in my list, or search on that title and look for my name.
I’ve found that 1911 style guns have this problem when shooting 9mm ammo, especially with mags loaded to full capacity. In short there is so much pressure that the second or third cartridge miss feeds. Not always and not once a couple of rounds have been fired. My video gets into all this concerning 9mm 1911s but it could happen with other guns as well, just hasn’t happened to me.
U Need To Polish The Feed
Ramp & De-Burr The 4 Plastic
Base's (Corner's) Where The
Upper Fits Onto The Lower...
Hi Jeff. Thanks for the thought. Your suggestions certainly make for smoother feeding in general but don’t address this specific issue. The problem is not a nose dive jam like on 1911s but rather that the cartridge gets stuck in the chamber. It has already come up the ramp correctly but the bullet jams tight in the throat area past the ledge where the cartridge is supposed to stop. Cartridge doesn’t “head space” properly and the slide will not go into battery. Opening the throat or reducing the bullet diameter eliminates the problem.
Sounds like the job of the manufacturer before distribution to public.
I was thinking about this. From one view you are definitely right. A lower priced gun should be able to handle any commercial quality ammunition that is within specs. However, a tighter throat area means that the bullet is lodged at the start of the rifling and does not have to "jump" a gap before hitting it and starting to spin. That could lead to improved accuracy. Perhaps. I am not enough of a gunsmith or engineer to know, but it seems possible. But either way it can be frustrating when something does not act as a reasonable person would expect and there is no obvious reason why that would be. A note in the owner's manual might be a good middle ground.
Have 3 caniks, never an issue. Sample variation like everything.
Donald. Great guns for the money, aren’t they? Glad you had no problem. I suspect your ammo has a profile that works better with their match barrels than does mine, but either way it’s a good thing. Enjoy them.
@@jay1944 I use them mostly as range toys as they’re light triggers concern me for carry, short of shtf without a ms. Great value and that and a 1911 9mm make me fill like I don’t suck so bad. Lol
@@donaldwestondmd4044 take them out to a local IDPA match, bet they will love it as much as you will.
Hi somebody can tell me what the exact ammunition for my canik tp9 sf?
My best guess is any factory 115 gr metal plated or metal jacketed rounds. My problem was with 125 gr RN poly coated rounds that have a beefier profile above the case. Factory metal plated 115s have a thinner profile and are less likely to jam.
@Jay Kelley Hello .. Good night ! It's been like 1 month since I bought my canik tp9 sf and today I went to shoot it for the first time, but I had problems in the first two shots, the capsules stuck the barrel and I couldn't shoot anymore because I was very upset, I would like to know what could be wrong wrong and if you can help me?
@@Codigo00X I only use ammo I reload myself so I can not recommend any specific factory alternative. My best guess is 115 gr (less lead so thinner profile) and metal covered (more slippery). The factory ammo I tried like that worked well. The easiest way to be sure is to take the barrel out of your gun, go to your gun store and ask to check the choices available. Drop a round in the barrel. It should drop all the way in with a clunk and the back of the cartridge should be flush with the back of the chamber hood which extends to the rear. If those conditions are met, the ammo will cycle easily in your gun. If you have friends that shoot, ask them for a couple of rounds from their box. Perform the same test until you find rounds that drop easily all the way into the chamber. Good luck.
Great video thank you !!!
Buy ammo that will function in your gun. Check the reloading manual for correct specs.
Hi Sherri. While both suggestions are valid, they are not really workable. Ammo is just too expensive to buy a bunch of different types until you get a fit. And, once you do that choice may not be available in the quantity needed. Plus, by reloading, I save over $800 per year. That is enough for a new gun. All of my reloads are within specs but apparently some barrels are constructed to tighter tolerances than others. I don’t fault Canik for that as it aids in better accuracy. I just didn’t know. My post is an attempt to help others that might be experiencing a similar problem by providing a potential simple solution without needing to scrap thousands of reloaded rounds or buying all new. It’s just another alternative. - J
@@heyjohnson5535 I agree. You are right. However, with the help of others I was able to discover why certain types of ammo wasn’t working and a solution so that it would. The approach worked for me so I passed it along in case it might work for others as well.
@@jay1944 i didnt mean u buddy. Was saying it to the person who posted the comment. U actually showed me how to tell so for that im grateful.
@@heyjohnson5535 no problem. This internet thing can be confusing, at least for … mature … individuals like me. My grand kids seem to have it worked out though.
Barrel wasn't cut right. Call Canik and let them replace it with a good barrel.
Sometimes that can happen. I suspect mine was within specs, just tight. Problem was with 124 grain poly coated bullets seated a bit long. Factory 115 grain FMJ rounds (with thinner profile and shorter OAL) had no issue. Canik could very well have said … factory ammo no problem, reloads problem, not covered. If they did swap out the barrel, might have had the same issue with the next one. After sanding and polishing the throat area, and shortening my OAL, they all work. Not saying the problem wasn’t the barrel, just that the approach I stumbled into worked for me.
Canik has the same problem
But also sometimes doesn’t eject properly
Hi Bruce. Is failure to eject the live round that didn’t go into battery? If so, what I think is happening is the “bulge” in the bullet profile just in front of the case mouth is getting jammed in the throat area between the chamber and the start of rifling. That stops the cartridge from seating and then causes it to stick hard when you try to eject it. If you are talking about a fired empty case failing to extract, I have not run into that with my Caniks.
In this video I talk about my solution but don’t show the steps. I have a new Rival and will try to video my approach. If that works out I will post it separately.
Хочу собі такий
Had the same issue with my CZP07. Would not fire a reload. Factory ammo works fine.
Yup. I had no idea that bullet profiles mattered so much. That’s what I get for shooting Glocks. Good thing the fix is so straight forward for those with match level barrels.
@@jay1944 lol I hear ya
Am I mistaken what you're saying, the OAL is 1.146 left Cartridge, center was 1.150 and the right jacketed round was 1.127 which you said was in the middle which by the numbers appear to be incorrect. Also the Maximum length of a 9x19mm is 1.169 which should not cause the issue you were having unless maybe the case length was to long being over .754 which would mean the bullet was set to deep in the case. But with all that being said why sand the throat when reaming is more accurate. If I'm off please correct me, glad you got the issue ironed out, Good video. Okay, I just realized you must have said 1.147 but my tired old ears didn't hear it right. LMFIAO either wat it's still odd that a short cartridge shouldn't have had that issue.
When the trained gunsmith suggested that my fat oglive 124 gr bullets were jamming in the throat area, reaming it out was the suggested fix. However, he did not have a 9mm tool and would have to go buy one. With the time delay, plus added cost, I decided to try a home remedy. The barrel is HARD. I’m sure my 400 wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around an old bore brush didn’t take off a lot, but that and then 1000 grit and then metal polish did smooth it out. Reducing the OAL to 1.110 put more of the fat part of the bullet into the case so less of it to get stuck in the throat. Together I had a solution. I did have to adjust my powder load, from 5.0 gr to 4.7 gr of CFE Pistol to keep the sake 130 power factor. Accuracy still right on target. Have fired thousands now with no issues.