This is my first quad, 120 flights on it so far and I love it. Will check out your tuning preset. I appreciate that the ELRS RX is a UART RX so I can use same configurator as my other ELRS. Thanks for the review.
Nice Angle Mode duffering there, Chris. The work you and Chris Thompson did with Angle Mode has made it much, much better, as you've shown in this vid. I can get my little drone in an out of places I never thought possible. And I agree: the Air65 looks like a near-perfect 1S package. The soldered motor connections are the tell.
respectfully, the new angle mode code is good for a newbie. But there's a reason everyone in the racing community has moved away from racing in angle mode. The old code was far better in my opinion for this purpose. I just wish there was a way you could choose between the two.
Thanks for sharing this, just getting back into FPV after 3 years, very informative. Looking forward to seeing a review, turning for the new HDZero AIO5 once you have it in your hands. Cheers!
Be advised. The little USB break out board is convenient and works well but the supplied 4 wire cable tends to pull loose from the terminals with any kind of movement. It’s the same as what came with the Aquila16 and I went through 3 replacements before I just made my own.
I had a bunch of questions about that RF power meter you're using but managed to find all the answers and more in your O3 vs Walksnail video. You're a gem Chris.
Thanks mate! Yeah that RF power meter is so useful given how cheap it is. You do need to calibrate it with an analog vtx and power meter but once that's done it's great and can measure digital as well.
They have a version of the board coming soon that has the ELRS RX built-in. Although, in my experience, the most common component to fail on BetaFPV's boards is the RX, so maybe having the RX separate is a good trade off.
Betafpv had lots of problems with rx failing on their cross fc. This solves that problem. The 5 in one they have planned is actually heavier than having a separate rx, so I don't see much appeal to that except to make it easier for people who don't like soldering (but then have to solder motors....)
@@jasonleesuffolk you will need to learn to solder in this hobby. A broken power lead is a 5 minute repair that costs maybe 10c in parts. Breaking an inbuilt receiver is a lot more painful. But it's your money!
Thanks Chris! Given the difference in VTX power per channel, what channel would you recommend for someone who flies solo, who wants the most VTX power but the least interference from outside sources? I.E, the clearest video with the most power output.
Just ordered one last Week. Was the ELRS receiver already installed? Unfortunately the Product Page is confusing as always. Told them multiple times already to review their Product Pages and clean them up.
great vid. though you stated its the same frame as the old meteor65 but its actually the air frame, they have been out for a good while, as has the air canopy. The old betaFPv cross AIO also had a blackbox too. its happymodel that seems to not like blackboxes on their whoops :) Oh and next month they are releasing the 5in1 AIO which will have ELRS onboard, i'm holding out for that
How confident are you with i-term at 1.0? I've been using your tutorials for tuning with blackbox and have found all my whoops need only 0.2 to 0.6 i-term. Any more and I see a lot of overshoot leading to oscillations.
OK. So for the guys that have got the controller and have been playing Velocidrone, and have got the goggles, and are finally wanting to get the drone.. what do we have to get to make it fly?
Yeah, almost all the VTXs I've tested kick out a lot more power on R1 than R8. It should be possible to control that better. I would also add a MAX setting which disables the lookup table for maximum output.
Does raceband 1 usually have more power in other vtx's too? I feel like I've heard Joshua Bardwell saying raceband 8 was better, is it because of less interference with wifi?
ok, super excited about you testing motors and props for a tinywhoop because I am trying to break the 10g mark and am under a half gram off and micros have always been my favorite.... But also, since your work is so good, would you consider revisiting the mpu6000 vs the ICM42688 and possibly the ICM42688P since the BF4.1.1 update to the ICM gyros? I am curious if we in this hobby are avoiding FC's from other brands that are now worth buying again especially since it feels like the innovation in the market has crashed in the last couple years where these ultra light weight parts are difficult to find these days. You would be perfect to show us what kind of improvement that has happened since the new gyros have become so much more common!
nice review! confusing is the vtx bands (the band reference cards you receive with a vtx etc) using 25mw indoors for setting up goggles monitors etc then going full bore outdoors...usually change bands until I see a picture which gets something done w/o understanding --if ya have a vid for this subject? (I have the FCC technician license so please don't hold back!)
My recommendation is to only ever use Raceband. All the bands overlap the same frequencies so there is no benefit to changing bands. Just set everything to Raceband and then only change the channels. It also helps if you always use the same channel. I always use RB1 when I'm flying by myself. When flying with others you should all be on Raceband and using different channels spaced as far apart as possible.
Bringing this to a race would be a nightmare for the people organizing. 25 mw on r8 but r1 it's almost 200mw why... Curious on how many other vtx's have this issue.
Switching the antenna for a polarized one should take care of interference. But yeah the output power on r1 is nuts. The 75mm event i go to is demanding polarized antennas for this reason. And hglrc boards are banned bc of the shitty vtx creeping into other channels...
@galardo3303 circular antenna has diminishing effects indoors as signal inverts off walls.... also over shooting by 100-200mw will ruin a race for the other people in your heat. I don't see this being ok at any races.
Hey Chris, thank you for your video. Your preset is absolutely first class. I just went through the first few batteries with the small one and after the third one I installed your preset.A completely different way of flying🫡👍👍
Great work Chris! I will send you a private message (email) in the next few days! Please wait with your video about Tiny Whoop motors. I would like to pass on all my experiences to you. Maybe you can include these...
I've been involved in the testing of this whoop since last year - originally it had openVTX on it, but they took it off for the production version. What is odd though is that the OpenVTX version, like every other OVTX i have tried, gets literally smoking hot within seconds, on 25mw. You can see the heat radiating off it, and the little sucker is drawing 2+A without motors attached. This production version stays in the "kinda hot" phase for minutes even on their "25Mw R1" setting :D
This drone looks cool, but the variation in video output is horrible. I wonder why they didn’t they put an external vtx on it instead of the rx. If problems with power are is consistent with these drones then that is a huge problem for races
Next BetaFPV Air 75 ? Kinda fear, since my Cetus Pro Blown up on 2S , as they mention 1S and 2S on board. BetaFPV so often Lied. And they also not fixing the Firmware corectly. Whois BetaFPV anyway ? By i dont do CetusX its just oversized on my 75mm whoop. Actualy Cetus Pro was supposed tobe Good Kit like this one Air75, we would like to see the Video of it. Oo and betafpv Air got 2 types of AIO 4in1 and 5in1 Which i supposed to see 5in1 with D8 protocol, Id say keep supporting legacy, because its fun.
The Output power is absolutely unnacceptable for a RACING branded whoop if your results can be replicated then this will be banned from most large events
"Flies really nice." Meanwhile the "pro reviewer" canot fly in a straight line, the drone is ballooning all the time and he is flying angle indoors very slowly like a newbie. No offense, but can you call this a full review?🤔 I respect the work you do for fpv, you can pid tune well, but that's almost all.
@@ChrisRosser I can understand, your tuning and testing videos are very nice. Take this drone and fly 3 packs every day, you will be going full throttle indoors in 30 days.😅
Your channel would be much better if you didn't make so many faces and mouths. Every video of yours has on the opening screen you making a face. He lost one subscriber.
This is my first quad, 120 flights on it so far and I love it. Will check out your tuning preset. I appreciate that the ELRS RX is a UART RX so I can use same configurator as my other ELRS. Thanks for the review.
Will you do a preset tune for the air75 aswell ?
Nice Angle Mode duffering there, Chris. The work you and Chris Thompson did with Angle Mode has made it much, much better, as you've shown in this vid. I can get my little drone in an out of places I never thought possible. And I agree: the Air65 looks like a near-perfect 1S package. The soldered motor connections are the tell.
respectfully, the new angle mode code is good for a newbie. But there's a reason everyone in the racing community has moved away from racing in angle mode. The old code was far better in my opinion for this purpose. I just wish there was a way you could choose between the two.
@@wh0deany respectfully, I find it ideal for the way I like to use my drone. Maybe I'm flying it wrong. . .
I have not had a single BetaFPV product last any descent amount of time. Here's hoping their quality is improving as the designs do.
I always thought they were cheap as hell compared to happymodel
The way I’ve flown my meteor 65 pro I have no idea how it’s still in one piece but it’s still as good as new
True the most common area where it break is the power cord
I hear this a bit but I’ve been really happy with all of my beta Fpv stuff. The batteries are awesome, my meteor 65 has been great too
@@juliomagana3112 just solder a 90 degree connector or fold it the right way and shrink wrap the back
Thanks for sharing this, just getting back into FPV after 3 years, very informative. Looking forward to seeing a review, turning for the new HDZero AIO5 once you have it in your hands. Cheers!
Be advised. The little USB break out board is convenient and works well but the supplied 4 wire cable tends to pull loose from the terminals with any kind of movement. It’s the same as what came with the Aquila16 and I went through 3 replacements before I just made my own.
I had a bunch of questions about that RF power meter you're using but managed to find all the answers and more in your O3 vs Walksnail video. You're a gem Chris.
Thanks mate! Yeah that RF power meter is so useful given how cheap it is. You do need to calibrate it with an analog vtx and power meter but once that's done it's great and can measure digital as well.
They have a version of the board coming soon that has the ELRS RX built-in. Although, in my experience, the most common component to fail on BetaFPV's boards is the RX, so maybe having the RX separate is a good trade off.
Hey Chris, make sure to test some 0703 motors as well. I'm really curious about them and how they'd behave, but I've never seen anyone trying them.
Betafpv had lots of problems with rx failing on their cross fc. This solves that problem. The 5 in one they have planned is actually heavier than having a separate rx, so I don't see much appeal to that except to make it easier for people who don't like soldering (but then have to solder motors....)
@Tokyo_Dom I had the power wire come off my elrs reciever with the 4in1 board,so I'm gonna try the 5in1 next
@@jasonleesuffolk you will need to learn to solder in this hobby. A broken power lead is a 5 minute repair that costs maybe 10c in parts. Breaking an inbuilt receiver is a lot more painful. But it's your money!
As you add master multiplier by 15% and reduce P and D the numbers are in the table above are not same as before as you stated. How is it?
Thanks Chris! Given the difference in VTX power per channel, what channel would you recommend for someone who flies solo, who wants the most VTX power but the least interference from outside sources? I.E, the clearest video with the most power output.
Excellent review Chris just bought the 75 air Hope to see your review on that one.
Just ordered one last Week. Was the ELRS receiver already installed? Unfortunately the Product Page is confusing as always. Told them multiple times already to review their Product Pages and clean them up.
Yes if you buy the BNF it comes installed. I think they dropped the PNP version.
@@ChrisRosser Thanks, got it confirmed by Anna from Betafpv as well.
great vid. though you stated its the same frame as the old meteor65 but its actually the air frame, they have been out for a good while, as has the air canopy. The old betaFPv cross AIO also had a blackbox too. its happymodel that seems to not like blackboxes on their whoops :)
Oh and next month they are releasing the 5in1 AIO which will have ELRS onboard, i'm holding out for that
Was just about to post the same thing about the black box on BetaFPV tiny whoops. They have had it for years.
Awesome flying, testing and review, Chris! Thanks!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
How confident are you with i-term at 1.0? I've been using your tutorials for tuning with blackbox and have found all my whoops need only 0.2 to 0.6 i-term. Any more and I see a lot of overshoot leading to oscillations.
It was totally fine for me. With more P and D term there will be less PID error and I term won't wind up quite so much. Thanks for the comment!
What would be the best nano camera?
caddx ant lite i think...
The separate RX is the main reason I'd consider buying one of these.
OK. So for the guys that have got the controller and have been playing Velocidrone, and have got the goggles, and are finally wanting to get the drone.. what do we have to get to make it fly?
Is it also possible to install a tbs crossfire nano rx on that quad instead of the elrs receiver that it comes with?
Do you have a similar video for the mobula6 2024??? If not do you thinking about it doing one could be helpfull
Newbie here, can I use it with bigger batteries, like lava 550mah? Or that’s not the greatest idea?
300mAh is really the max for the 65mm.
I think all vtxs should use a translation table for power levels, so 25mw is the same power on all channels. It wouldn't be hard.
Yeah, almost all the VTXs I've tested kick out a lot more power on R1 than R8. It should be possible to control that better. I would also add a MAX setting which disables the lookup table for maximum output.
That is actually what the openVTx does. Betafpv just cant make reliable electronics unfortunately.
Fantastic video, very good explanation
Does raceband 1 usually have more power in other vtx's too? I feel like I've heard Joshua Bardwell saying raceband 8 was better, is it because of less interference with wifi?
Yeah, he said it sits above WiFi.
I did heard another UA-camr talk about R1 output power, so that's what I've using in parks :)
Is the tune good for the race edition too? It has 27kkv motors.
Yep should be ok!
Great review on the TINY woop betafpv 65 . I take the opportunity to tune my TINY woop thank you .😊
ok, super excited about you testing motors and props for a tinywhoop because I am trying to break the 10g mark and am under a half gram off and micros have always been my favorite.... But also, since your work is so good, would you consider revisiting the mpu6000 vs the ICM42688 and possibly the ICM42688P since the BF4.1.1 update to the ICM gyros? I am curious if we in this hobby are avoiding FC's from other brands that are now worth buying again especially since it feels like the innovation in the market has crashed in the last couple years where these ultra light weight parts are difficult to find these days. You would be perfect to show us what kind of improvement that has happened since the new gyros have become so much more common!
Hi Eric, definitely. I'll put it on the video list.
@@ericbutler2385 you have a 10g tinywhoop??! I got down to 11.25g but that is a lot of compromises
Wil rb1 always geval more power on all analog drones ?
Im very new to the hobby and would really appreciate some help, if i buy the air65 would i be able to connect it to an elrs radio without problems?
yes, if the versions of Rx and radio (Tx) match, as in 3.x.x and 3.x.x.
the problem would be with version 2.x.x Rx and 3.x.x Tx.
nice review!
confusing is the vtx bands (the band reference cards you receive with a vtx etc) using 25mw indoors for setting up goggles monitors etc then going full bore outdoors...usually change bands until I see a picture which gets something done w/o understanding --if ya have a vid for this subject? (I have the FCC technician license so please don't hold back!)
My recommendation is to only ever use Raceband. All the bands overlap the same frequencies so there is no benefit to changing bands. Just set everything to Raceband and then only change the channels. It also helps if you always use the same channel. I always use RB1 when I'm flying by myself. When flying with others you should all be on Raceband and using different channels spaced as far apart as possible.
I accidentally ordered the 450mah batteries and they don’t fit the chassy, I’m tempted to Jerry rig it so hopefully it can carry and extra 4 grams
yeah the 300mAh LAVA is really the max.
@@ChrisRosser so it did fly but I don’t want to spank the motors so ordered a couple of 300’s thanks for your reply!
Will u have a preset for the meteor65 pro too?
Bringing this to a race would be a nightmare for the people organizing. 25 mw on r8 but r1 it's almost 200mw why... Curious on how many other vtx's have this issue.
Switching the antenna for a polarized one should take care of interference. But yeah the output power on r1 is nuts.
The 75mm event i go to is demanding polarized antennas for this reason. And hglrc boards are banned bc of the shitty vtx creeping into other channels...
@galardo3303 circular antenna has diminishing effects indoors as signal inverts off walls.... also over shooting by 100-200mw will ruin a race for the other people in your heat. I don't see this being ok at any races.
Hey Chris, thank you for your video. Your preset is absolutely first class. I just went through the first few batteries with the small one and after the third one I installed your preset.A completely different way of flying🫡👍👍
How to bind to the controller,
Great work Chris! I will send you a private message (email) in the next few days! Please wait with your video about Tiny Whoop motors. I would like to pass on all my experiences to you. Maybe you can include these...
Would this tune work well for the 27,000kv version as well?
Yes should be fine!
How do you save the footage from analog?
DVR built into the goggles
wow that VTX is a nightmare, but adding blackbox on a whoop is tight! ⚖ Thanks for the stats
I've been involved in the testing of this whoop since last year - originally it had openVTX on it, but they took it off for the production version. What is odd though is that the OpenVTX version, like every other OVTX i have tried, gets literally smoking hot within seconds, on 25mw. You can see the heat radiating off it, and the little sucker is drawing 2+A without motors attached. This production version stays in the "kinda hot" phase for minutes even on their "25Mw R1" setting :D
@@Tokyo_Dom whoa that is super interesting wonder what is going on there, now you've given me something else to look into!
What googles can you bind this ?
It's analog so any analog goggle/screen will work (NOT DJI) and you don't need to bind it.
Why does race band 1 have a higher output power than race band 8?
Frequency. Higher frequency equals lower power on the Raceband. R8 is higher frequency than R1, so lower power. Everything is a tradeoff.
0:05: that’s exactly what she said…
i hope we get uart elrs integrated in their next version of this new AIO.
But has anyone got stock ?
Check out aerial outlaws, they will likely have them first in the US. Isaac works with them to test, and he put his order in before anyone else. 🙂
Correction: the BetaFPV cross style 1s aio has Blackbox. I would say it’s one of the only tiny whoop AIOs with blackbox. Pretty neat
Flywoo Goku F405 has 8MB one too.
The vtx doesn't seem as good as my mobula7,even on 400mw the picture breaks up at a shorter range
this vtx is very weird. On one hand 600mw will give you better range, but on the other racing with this will be tricky
This drone looks cool, but the variation in video output is horrible. I wonder why they didn’t they put an external vtx on it instead of the rx. If problems with power are is consistent with these drones then that is a huge problem for races
Small 1S VTXs are known to have variable output. I don't know if this VTX is any worse than the usual but I'll keep testing.
The last few betafpv flight controllers have had a black box
Air frame and air canopy very easily brake. I prefer the mobula 6 which is a lot lighter and as durable as the regular Meteor65
hi new sub here can you make one video like this for the hummingbirdV3.1 please ??
Glad they didn’t add elrs, old pilots use crossfire!
Next BetaFPV Air 75 ?
Kinda fear, since my Cetus Pro Blown up on 2S , as they mention 1S and 2S on board.
BetaFPV so often Lied.
And they also not fixing the Firmware corectly.
Whois BetaFPV anyway ?
By i dont do CetusX its just oversized on my 75mm whoop.
Actualy Cetus Pro was supposed tobe Good Kit like this one Air75, we would like to see the Video of it.
Oo and betafpv Air got 2 types of AIO 4in1 and 5in1
Which i supposed to see 5in1 with D8 protocol,
Id say keep supporting legacy, because its fun.
wow.. 25mw on R1 will drain lipo way faster lol
Idk about that
ELRS onboard = Overheating.
Ooh, I didn't know that! Does it cause the RX to drop out?
Never seen angle strength at 100.
Stock tune is straight outa 2016 🤦♂️ dynamic idle should be set to 200 for somthing this size and weight
The Output power is absolutely unnacceptable for a RACING branded whoop if your results can be replicated then this will be banned from most large events
100% this is a nightmare for running races and lots of feels bads
just set it to R8
"Flies really nice." Meanwhile the "pro reviewer" canot fly in a straight line, the drone is ballooning all the time and he is flying angle indoors very slowly like a newbie. No offense, but can you call this a full review?🤔 I respect the work you do for fpv, you can pid tune well, but that's almost all.
Wtf do you do for FPV ?!😂 This is a tiny bit of what he does for it! Looked like a normal indoor maiden flight for a quad that isn't dialed in.
I'm not the best pilot so I focus on the testing and tuning.
@@ChrisRosser I can understand, your tuning and testing videos are very nice. Take this drone and fly 3 packs every day, you will be going full throttle indoors in 30 days.😅
First?
Your channel would be much better if you didn't make so many faces and mouths. Every video of yours has on the opening screen you making a face. He lost one subscriber.