This was really good, Tommy explains all of this info way better than anyone else I've ever heard anywhere. You can tell he really knows his stuff but also wants to explain what he's talking about so everyone and anyone can understand it. And Jock was really good about asking the right questions at the right time, there is so much solid info in here for all vehicles not just Hiluxes. This video was awesome, hope to see more like it in the future. 👍
Hahaha follow his lead and let me know when you fck your 1kd there small engines, I have one so I'm bagging them but it's the truth they can't be safely turned into a race there designed as a work/farm vehicle. Unless you have 8k spare for a new genuine then by all means get some thrills from Fck all amount of time 😅
You've given me great advice over the past 2 years I wanted to make sure I did the same for you! Spend your money on a Toyota diesel if you can at some point buy a 7.3 f250 f350 do it if it's a 99-03 convert the front to coils from leafs and you'll love it forever! Pull anything go anywhere!!! Very strong trucks! They are less problematic than the 04-2011s! Love the N70 she's going to be beautiful too!
I'm old and have built many machines. As with the motor you cant just do one bit. Open it up for more fuel and you'll need to open up the exhaust. get more power out of your motor. Keep three times that value for brakes, CV's, suspension, driveshaft and insurance.
I think all the current Australian duel can utes are not suitable to be towing anything more than 1.8t safely, so I think the big American trucks have a place, they are exactly what people who are caravan touring should be buying..
I agree 100%, I would put it at around 2.2 - 2.5t max, the 3.5t current limits are too excessive for such small vehicles, where I live in Sydney there are heaps of new Ram's / Silverado's etc, that are used for heavy horse floats and large caravans, these vehicles are perfectly suited for these types of loads
Totally relate to a tune. I'm in a different league though, 2016 built Y61-ZD30 CRC Auto. Yes, a swear word here amongst Toyota die hards, "Nissan Patrol", there I said it. Took ours in for a tow tune at a low 88,600 kilometres on it. Basically, it was just run in. Work involved, New topmount intercooler, tillix boost control kit, ECU custom tune. Drove away with 96.9Kw & 779 Nm at rear wheels that just holds 4th gear locked up lugging on torque touring. Totally transformed our humble ZD30 into a delight to tour/cruise and tow our van with. A brilliant side benifit I was not expecting, better engine braking apparently created by the extra boost coming on lower in revs creating more compression, either way transformed off road descents awesomely. We now get 13.3 lts per 100 highway cruising, 15.7 lts per 100 on winding underlating terrain & 19 lts per 100 towing. Now, whilst I have all the torque at hand, I don't jepordise my reliability by using it to extreme, conservative use for mechanical sympathy is my logic, mind you, I can now use the fast lane on inclines and get past annoying slow motorists, something that was a struggle in std tune. It was costly, but fuel savings will eventually recover the financial outlay and its just so nice to drive, it's as it should have come from factory. Enjoy you ride Jocko as we do ours, so enjoyable now.
I have a nissan navara d22 with a zd30, Have a hi-flow turbo, Boost controller set to 21 psi, 3" exhaust and tuned to 90kw, 490nm And it's unreal to drive compaired to the stock 75kw, 290nm or w/e it was Can beat stock patrols now :D So i understand your struggle I still have a vnt turbo so slow to come onto boost but when it does, It boogies A patrol seems to beat me off the line still, But once i hit 3rd and 4th they don't really stand a chance, It's actually a pretty hard vehicle to drive in the wet at traffic lights, It likes to spin up It don't have traction control or abs so it takes a little getting use to, Had a mate drive it towing a trailer, He's a very good driver 10+ years driving road-trains and he started spinning going around the roundabout in the wet, So i couldn't imagine the 779nm I've driven 400kw petrol cars, Torque is all you need and not a high power, Hence why i only own diesels now
Depends on the big American truck, the year it was made, engine and transmission. I drive an early 90’s dodge Cummins. I don’t ask much of it, with some minor modernization, a little extra power, and better suspension, but it’s a surprisingly comfortable tourer, with the right tire pressures of course. And the fuel mileage is out of this world, for the size of it! 9L/100km, doing 100kph with a light load. Get roughly 1000kms per tank!
I'd have a Hilux any day of the week. Those big yank tanks; more fuel, probably less places to get parts if you're travelling and 4wding. I can't imagine them out in the bush where I go.
Isn't the trans cooler plumbed backwards? Why would the fluid flow from transmission to remote cooler to integrated radiator cooler? When running the hottest, wouldn't the driver want the isolated cooling step (the remote cooler) to be the last path before returning to the transmission? When operating normally, going back to radiator could reheat the trans fluid. I had a similar setup on my 4runner with the outlet of the transmission going to the integrated radiator cooler, then the remote cooler. Normal driving, i saw the transmission temps running 20-40 degrees cooler than the coolant temps. If i would have switched the flow (as it was done in the video), the integrated radiator cooler would have reheated the fluid.
Yank tank set up for day trips and storage and a toy hauler with something like a single cab patrol set up for long range remote touring in mind on the back. Best of both worlds.
In America now Ford, Chevy, and Ram 150s and 1500s come with 4 cylinder diesels. Along with the Rangers and Colorados. The 2500s and 250s come with the big 6.7L diesels. I have a relative that is getting 35mpg out of his 2023 Silverado 1500. Way better than the petrol engines.
This 3L turbo diesel seems to be under performing big time. My mid boosted FG XR6T is 4L and 1100nm / 800hp. The only real way to make this rig perform is to remove weight.
They're underpowered and inefficient. 14l per 100 for a twin cab alloy tray with FA power. The only thing a 1kd is good for is stopping your boat floating away.
@@nordic5490 Its not comparable. 27 pounds on a petrol gives drastic results that a diesel won't. Check out the Thailand diesel drag utes, they run up to 70 pounds to get the hp/torque needed
@@nordic5490 for a start, compare your power figures at the equivalent revs, a diesel isn't doing 7000+rpm redline. This engine also only needs to make 75% the power to be the same hp/litre as yours. But also, this wasn't tuned to it's max. It was tuned to the limit point of the standard torque converter. The turbo and injectors on this are oversized for this power output because jock obviously wanted to have room for improvement in the future.
Trust Mr Jock I live in the USA upstate ny albany I've driven and worked on many duramax Chevy 2500-3500's the engines are great Alison trans bullet proof but the trucks are cheap we had some breaking in half! Many wiring issues or dumb problems! I'm a Ford guy for a reason 7.3 Diesel and the 6.7's are awesome reliable engines! The trucks last forever I've never seen a superduty breaking in half or have any of the many problems the Chevys do! That's why I've owned 3 F250Superduty's! And a 95F450 7.3 the first with a turbo! 16 foot flatbed for hauling tires!!!! Best trucks honestly I prefer the 95-97's and the 99-03 f250 and f350s tho! I have a white 03F250 4 door I bought wrecked it took down a utility pole then the front corner burned for 10 mins! Took me 4 years but you can't tell any of it ever happened! She's beautiful again!!!! Wouldn't mind putting a 5.9 Cummins 6cyldr in it that's also an international motor they also make the 7.3s and 6.9s yes the Cummins cake in dodges but it's still international just easier to fix than a 7.3
As someone with a big 7.5L V8 rig pushing 1500HP and about to get upgraded to 10.3L and also a tiny 1.3L Not boosted, carbed 4x4 making 40HP I think its really important to have both, there is a time and a place for both. I have much fun with both! The tiny 1.3L is significantly cheaper to have fun with tho. also doesn't break much with its 40HP
Its funny because being from Canada, im starting to love those little Toyota’s for there small trail capability’s ! Now sayin that, my wife and i own an 86 Dodge Power Ram 4x4, 6” lift, 4:10 gears 37” mudders, 5.7 magnum v8, 2014 Ram crew cab long box 4x4 ( our pull vehicle) 85 jeep wrangler with stock 4 cylinder gas, and her pride and joy, her 07 Jeep Rubicon. All good old American /Canadian iron-cant afford to do anything anymore, but the toys are there lol!!Cheers keep up the awesome videos!!!
The new chevy/gm diesels as well as Ford and RAM, all have about 450hp and nearly 1000 ft-lbs ( ~1350 nm) from factory now. At least here in North America. And they got a lot more in them if you want a few mods. However the one you showed was an older generation I think.
Good luck with that jocko. The 1kd-ftv (D4D) cracks pistons under heavy load with the standard tune. They are not designed to take that power. You're playing with fire boy it's going to end in tears I can almost guarantee it.
Search D4D engines Australia this guy literally has a business based on rebuilding these things after they crack pistons. Probably should do some research before you open your mouth
would love to see a cost breakdown of this. For the turbo, injectors and auto transmission. I'm looking at buying a n70 myself for me and the family! i want to do it right the first time.
The key to fuel economy while tuning is to put your foot down less when driving since you have higher power at lower revs. But if you drive as hard or harder, it will use more
I’ve got two mates who had 1000nm utes, one was a 1kd that had just shy of 40k spent on the engine and driveline and constantly plagued with problems. The other a V6 Navara that had minor upgrades and was extremely reliable over 10 years, it ultimately suffered from worn suspension and fatigue cracks on the Intercooler neither engine related.
"Really hard to explain simply" goes on to explain it simply, this is a bloke who knows his stuff huh. As a South African I can listen to AU fella's talk about motor parts all day. Can't wait to see Jocko's N70 once its been to the Mits Alloy shop.
I live in the US and I have a 4Runner setup for overland travel. The big American made trucks are our only diesel option besides the fiat powered diesel jeep. I live on the eastern side of the country and big trucks just don’t do well because of how narrow the trails usually are. Besides being very large the price is insanely large with a decently equipped truck going for over 100k new! No thanks
I can vouch for getting a bigger trans cooler straight up. My tuned FJJ1 will bomb around in sand in high range no probs at all, but the trans gets hot real quick. I need to fix that!
all well and good but it would be nice to know how much all those upgrades actually cost??? its proberly cheaper to just upgrade the whole truck to some thing newer and nicer than that old Hilux.
Good job you guys done at explaining a very complicated topic, many none experienced/trained mechanics wouldn’t understand or realize how important are the very basics. Nowadays we face thousands of “fb experts” telling us what is right, what is not, and being a qualified automotive technician myself, it’s really hard to convince customers to listen to professionals rather than Fb stories. KD’s are great engines, please use high quality Denso injectors, simple as that. See ya
Basic upgrades mate. Intercooler, injectors, turbo, wheel bearings, full respray, chassis extension, solid axle conversion, tune. Anyone with a set of wheel ramps and a few Ryobi tools can do this in their own shed.
VNT arnt that bad, mine started to die at 415k ahahah Also, did you upgrade your pads n rotors? Got all that power to tow but stock brakes? 🤔 later model calipers do fit the early models
@@autarko Colorado's are pretty crap not to different than gwm. Weak tiny drive line I've already done the comparison. I'll probably look at Ford rangers or newer hilux. If I can ever finish paying for my dud lux
@@simmo6035 I have an RG colorado it's bomb proof and pulls 600nm with a diy tune.. My buddy has an n70 which cost more. I feel sorry for him in his slow old car.
I installed a bigger turbo, increased common rail pressure and overhauled the bottom end and I’ve been running great for about 80k km no problem so you can
As an American, the american trucks pull out, run an outlast or 4 cylinder. But there are a lot more problems trying to repair it on the side of the road. And heaven forbid you try to take it into some of those tracks that you have down there. It won't fit in any way she performed without doing a lot of panel damage
@anthonyramdin1037 As you can read my comment said Toyota over a Chevy no particular make or model.. Toyota is the most reliable car....SOOTY......THE DIRTY 30......THE PONY......THE LEGEND'S
@@anthonyramdin1037the pistons would shit the bed only when injectors start to fail and either over or under fuel them. I'd like to see any piston survive that in an engine. Mine are still stock and hold close to 40psi up its arse on a regular basis.
It always amazes me how little power these Toyotas have, compared to other makes and models. My jeep for example with the same size turbo diesel engine, has the same power without any mods, as Jockos Hilux now has after having all those mods fitted.
Yeh but jeeps are heaps of shit, unreliable AF woeful engineering aren’t they made in India or a similar 3rd world country???.. Getta PATROL TD42TI or a Cruiser 80series. Japanese Quality Engineering 👍👍.
@@harrywalker968 yes the ranger is back, but as far as I know it doesn't come in a small displacement diesel, which was my main point. The F150 is a 1/2 ton full size truck, always has been.
I always thought manual was better as it’s simpler and less things to go wrong. Also how do I know if I’m getting a good tune? Or if there ripping me off and destroying the engine?
Quick question with the injectors.. 2008 4jj1 manual colorado with egr delete and cooler delete... temp gauge rises fast under acceleration but drops when costing but doesn't seem to be pressurising cooling system
Marlin crawler website has a couple of upgrade parts for r151f gearbox, but it's not much, it's just the initial weakest parts. They can only handle so much regardless. Npc do a extra heavy duty clutch/flywheel kit. And that's as upgraded as it gets for R series manuals as far as I know.
Try taking one of those big American "trucks" on the High Country tracks that are built and maintained with "Australian" vehicles in mind. I know a guy who got one of the big Fords pick-ups, but that was because he used it for his aircraft engine business and wanted to carry one radial engine in the back and another on a trailer behind it. He had a legitimate reason for it. My GQ Patrol Wagon LWB is about as big as I'd want to drive offroad in our conditions, outside of a specialist vehicle (like a fire truck).
Aussie rigs deserve on aussie tracks the american trucks are not designed for aussie conditions and parts are not as easy to get so I would stick with the smaller rigs over the big thursty american trucks
This was really good, Tommy explains all of this info way better than anyone else I've ever heard anywhere. You can tell he really knows his stuff but also wants to explain what he's talking about so everyone and anyone can understand it. And Jock was really good about asking the right questions at the right time, there is so much solid info in here for all vehicles not just Hiluxes. This video was awesome, hope to see more like it in the future. 👍
Hahaha follow his lead and let me know when you fck your 1kd there small engines, I have one so I'm bagging them but it's the truth they can't be safely turned into a race there designed as a work/farm vehicle. Unless you have 8k spare for a new genuine then by all means get some thrills from Fck all amount of time 😅
Absolutely killed it Tommy! Full of knowledge and so well put across!
Mazda bt505 cylinder turbo diesel thanks 👍🏼
4jj1 dmax with 400,000 kms on original injectors so far no problems and no smoke
Great work to Jocko who knows what questions to ask and glean helpful information from the guys!
I couldn’t agree more mate.
He’s far more knowledgeable than he leads on!
You've given me great advice over the past 2 years I wanted to make sure I did the same for you! Spend your money on a Toyota diesel if you can at some point buy a 7.3 f250 f350 do it if it's a 99-03 convert the front to coils from leafs and you'll love it forever! Pull anything go anywhere!!! Very strong trucks! They are less problematic than the 04-2011s! Love the N70 she's going to be beautiful too!
I'm old and have built many machines. As with the motor you cant just do one bit. Open it up for more fuel and you'll need to open up the exhaust. get more power out of your motor. Keep three times that value for brakes, CV's, suspension, driveshaft and insurance.
Good points mate
As an owner off a N70 Hilux I have been WAITING ON THISS !!!!!!
I think all the current Australian duel can utes are not suitable to be towing anything more than 1.8t safely, so I think the big American trucks have a place, they are exactly what people who are caravan touring should be buying..
I agree 100%
I would put the limit around 3000.
Even a Ford transit custom tows 2200 relatively easy.
Did that every now and then before switching vehicle.
I agree 100%, I would put it at around 2.2 - 2.5t max, the 3.5t current limits are too excessive for such small vehicles, where I live in Sydney there are heaps of new Ram's / Silverado's etc, that are used for heavy horse floats and large caravans, these vehicles are perfectly suited for these types of loads
Agreed
They deal with well over 1.8t just fine. I had 2.4t of wood loaded behind a vy ss on airbags, held 180kmh on rural backroads in Victoria just fine
Totally relate to a tune.
I'm in a different league though, 2016 built Y61-ZD30 CRC Auto.
Yes, a swear word here amongst Toyota die hards, "Nissan Patrol", there I said it.
Took ours in for a tow tune at a low 88,600 kilometres on it.
Basically, it was just run in.
Work involved,
New topmount intercooler, tillix boost control kit, ECU custom tune.
Drove away with 96.9Kw & 779 Nm at rear wheels that just holds 4th gear locked up lugging on torque touring.
Totally transformed our humble ZD30 into a delight to tour/cruise and tow our van with. A brilliant side benifit I was not expecting, better engine braking apparently created by the extra boost coming on lower in revs creating more compression, either way transformed off road descents awesomely.
We now get 13.3 lts per 100 highway cruising, 15.7 lts per 100 on winding underlating terrain & 19 lts per 100 towing.
Now, whilst I have all the torque at hand, I don't jepordise my reliability by using it to extreme, conservative use for mechanical sympathy is my logic, mind you, I can now use the fast lane on inclines and get past annoying slow motorists, something that was a struggle in std tune.
It was costly, but fuel savings will eventually recover the financial outlay and its just so nice to drive, it's as it should have come from factory.
Enjoy you ride Jocko as we do ours, so enjoyable now.
I have a nissan navara d22 with a zd30, Have a hi-flow turbo, Boost controller set to 21 psi, 3" exhaust and tuned to 90kw, 490nm
And it's unreal to drive compaired to the stock 75kw, 290nm or w/e it was
Can beat stock patrols now :D So i understand your struggle
I still have a vnt turbo so slow to come onto boost but when it does, It boogies
A patrol seems to beat me off the line still, But once i hit 3rd and 4th they don't really stand a chance, It's actually a pretty hard vehicle to drive in the wet at traffic lights, It likes to spin up
It don't have traction control or abs so it takes a little getting use to, Had a mate drive it towing a trailer, He's a very good driver 10+ years driving road-trains and he started spinning going around the roundabout in the wet, So i couldn't imagine the 779nm
I've driven 400kw petrol cars, Torque is all you need and not a high power, Hence why i only own diesels now
Depends on the big American truck, the year it was made, engine and transmission. I drive an early 90’s dodge Cummins. I don’t ask much of it, with some minor modernization, a little extra power, and better suspension, but it’s a surprisingly comfortable tourer, with the right tire pressures of course. And the fuel mileage is out of this world, for the size of it! 9L/100km, doing 100kph with a light load. Get roughly 1000kms per tank!
Could we have a figure on how much was the total upgrade, as a guide for anyone thinking to do the same.
Keep up the good work!🍻
If youre on KD
- upgrade nozzles (Denso 051)
- performance SCV
- performance stroker pump shaft
- external fuel pump (something like Bosch)
- 1:1 oil pump
- F55 turbo
- exhaust cams
- intercooler
- 3in exhaust
- ECU
You can push upto 30psi on stock VNT then just upgrade the nozzles, full exhaust then a drop in filter
Came for the comments from the 'Im going to comment even though I have no idea' crew. Definitely wasn't disappointed
I'd have a Hilux any day of the week. Those big yank tanks; more fuel, probably less places to get parts if you're travelling and 4wding. I can't imagine them out in the bush where I go.
Today I leant : Throwing 10K at a hilux makes it better.
Awesome video as always 4WD 24/7 Crew.
Isn't the trans cooler plumbed backwards? Why would the fluid flow from transmission to remote cooler to integrated radiator cooler? When running the hottest, wouldn't the driver want the isolated cooling step (the remote cooler) to be the last path before returning to the transmission? When operating normally, going back to radiator could reheat the trans fluid. I had a similar setup on my 4runner with the outlet of the transmission going to the integrated radiator cooler, then the remote cooler. Normal driving, i saw the transmission temps running 20-40 degrees cooler than the coolant temps. If i would have switched the flow (as it was done in the video), the integrated radiator cooler would have reheated the fluid.
I really had to like and spend time on watching all THE 4WD 24/7 from SOUTH AFRICA I've learned a lot from you guys thank you👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
First time viewer of your channel and wow, finally someone that asks the right questions and we get no b/s answers. Well done.
Yank tank set up for day trips and storage and a toy hauler with something like a single cab patrol set up for long range remote touring in mind on the back. Best of both worlds.
In America now Ford, Chevy, and Ram 150s and 1500s come with 4 cylinder diesels. Along with the Rangers and Colorados. The 2500s and 250s come with the big 6.7L diesels. I have a relative that is getting 35mpg out of his 2023 Silverado 1500. Way better than the petrol engines.
Based on standard power and torque from this model (120kw,347nm) this only equates to an increase similar to a 2L Turbo today (150kw and 500nm)
This 3L turbo diesel seems to be under performing big time.
My mid boosted FG XR6T is 4L and 1100nm / 800hp.
The only real way to make this rig perform is to remove weight.
@@nordic5490Imagine being so dense that you try comparing a turbo petrol to a turbo diesel
They're underpowered and inefficient. 14l per 100 for a twin cab alloy tray with FA power.
The only thing a 1kd is good for is stopping your boat floating away.
@@nordic5490 Its not comparable. 27 pounds on a petrol gives drastic results that a diesel won't. Check out the Thailand diesel drag utes, they run up to 70 pounds to get the hp/torque needed
@@nordic5490 for a start, compare your power figures at the equivalent revs, a diesel isn't doing 7000+rpm redline. This engine also only needs to make 75% the power to be the same hp/litre as yours.
But also, this wasn't tuned to it's max. It was tuned to the limit point of the standard torque converter. The turbo and injectors on this are oversized for this power output because jock obviously wanted to have room for improvement in the future.
Trust Mr Jock I live in the USA upstate ny albany I've driven and worked on many duramax Chevy 2500-3500's the engines are great Alison trans bullet proof but the trucks are cheap we had some breaking in half! Many wiring issues or dumb problems! I'm a Ford guy for a reason 7.3 Diesel and the 6.7's are awesome reliable engines! The trucks last forever I've never seen a superduty breaking in half or have any of the many problems the Chevys do! That's why I've owned 3 F250Superduty's! And a 95F450 7.3 the first with a turbo! 16 foot flatbed for hauling tires!!!! Best trucks honestly I prefer the 95-97's and the 99-03 f250 and f350s tho! I have a white 03F250 4 door I bought wrecked it took down a utility pole then the front corner burned for 10 mins! Took me 4 years but you can't tell any of it ever happened! She's beautiful again!!!! Wouldn't mind putting a 5.9 Cummins 6cyldr in it that's also an international motor they also make the 7.3s and 6.9s yes the Cummins cake in dodges but it's still international just easier to fix than a 7.3
As someone with a big 7.5L V8 rig pushing 1500HP and about to get upgraded to 10.3L and also a tiny 1.3L Not boosted, carbed 4x4 making 40HP I think its really important to have both, there is a time and a place for both. I have much fun with both! The tiny 1.3L is significantly cheaper to have fun with tho. also doesn't break much with its 40HP
What are you towing with the 7.5l let alone the 10?
thats a no brainer jock give me the lux anyday
GR8 Vid mate! Re Yank Tank V Lux. #1 Parking n Daily Drive = Lux. #2 Parts n Repairs everywhere = Lux.
Tommy, liv and the team at performance tourers are legends
Its funny because being from Canada, im starting to love those little Toyota’s for there small trail capability’s ! Now sayin that, my wife and i own an 86 Dodge Power Ram 4x4, 6” lift, 4:10 gears 37” mudders, 5.7 magnum v8, 2014 Ram crew cab long box 4x4 ( our pull vehicle) 85 jeep wrangler with stock 4 cylinder gas, and her pride and joy, her 07 Jeep Rubicon. All good old American /Canadian iron-cant afford to do anything anymore, but the toys are there lol!!Cheers keep up the awesome videos!!!
Bit too much Stellantis product there mate........🤦
Some awesome rigs there mate!
@@kylebutler7142 lol my wallet agrees!! 🍻
@@performancetourers4x465 🍻!
This is absolutely amazing set up for power and fuel,
The new chevy/gm diesels as well as Ford and RAM, all have about 450hp and nearly 1000 ft-lbs ( ~1350 nm) from factory now. At least here in North America. And they got a lot more in them if you want a few mods. However the one you showed was an older generation I think.
american diesel trucks have 6.6liters +, this one probably has the 2.5 or 3.0 litre toyota diesel
@TORTLESSS no. That just the previous generation 6.5L. The current (2019+) generation has been amped up to go with it ~35000lb towing capacity.
@@craigquannah yes, he's talking about the Toyota in the video, the 1KD. It has either a 2.5 or 3 litre diesel
I own a 2016 Chevy 2500 duramax and its the way to go. I am in California though
Good luck with that jocko. The 1kd-ftv (D4D) cracks pistons under heavy load with the standard tune. They are not designed to take that power. You're playing with fire boy it's going to end in tears I can almost guarantee it.
That was in the facelifted 2012 I think. The 2004 - 2011 had injector issues but no cracked pistons.
@firecatinfernus3534 Check out fourby4diesel he specialises in these motors all your questions will be answered
Nah
If only you knew a thing about cars
Search D4D engines Australia this guy literally has a business based on rebuilding these things after they crack pistons. Probably should do some research before you open your mouth
would love to see a cost breakdown of this. For the turbo, injectors and auto transmission. I'm looking at buying a n70 myself for me and the family! i want to do it right the first time.
How can I not like this video. Great work guys thanks for the information. Cheers
Would have stayed with a VGT turbo. Few people around making some decent vgt upgrades. I think the biggest bolt on vgt is good for 400ish
'More fuel in there without burning more fuel' 🤔
The key to fuel economy while tuning is to put your foot down less when driving since you have higher power at lower revs. But if you drive as hard or harder, it will use more
An inline trans cooler, an injector upgrade, valve body upgrade for the transmission and a new turbo right? What does this all cost?
I’ve got two mates who had 1000nm utes, one was a 1kd that had just shy of 40k spent on the engine and driveline and constantly plagued with problems.
The other a V6 Navara that had minor upgrades and was extremely reliable over 10 years, it ultimately suffered from worn suspension and fatigue cracks on the Intercooler neither engine related.
Bro's mullet is glorious.
Jocko’s almost running this channel, love the hilux shed builds
"Really hard to explain simply" goes on to explain it simply, this is a bloke who knows his stuff huh.
As a South African I can listen to AU fella's talk about motor parts all day.
Can't wait to see Jocko's N70 once its been to the Mits Alloy shop.
When are you gonna dyno and tune the ponylux? I'd like to know how much that turbo helped.
Awesome ep you always give so much good info thanx mate
Can you get a Cummins straight 6 diesel it can make insane HP and LBS.
Americian utes are fantastic, but too big and wide for many tracks, they also have low rampover angles.
a good size would be the toyota tecoma in Aus.
I’d love to see the Tacoma over here!
I live in the US and I have a 4Runner setup for overland travel. The big American made trucks are our only diesel option besides the fiat powered diesel jeep. I live on the eastern side of the country and big trucks just don’t do well because of how narrow the trails usually are. Besides being very large the price is insanely large with a decently equipped truck going for over 100k new! No thanks
I can vouch for getting a bigger trans cooler straight up. My tuned FJJ1 will bomb around in sand in high range no probs at all, but the trans gets hot real quick. I need to fix that!
44mm is the best combo. Mine is 230hp with vnt. And remap
Very informative, how about a manual transmission can you just put a heavy duty clutch?
all well and good but it would be nice to know how much all those upgrades actually cost??? its proberly cheaper to just upgrade the whole truck to some thing newer and nicer than that old Hilux.
Exactly. Better off wtih something like a Colorado RG with 500nm stock. People love their Toyotas though.
Yep, get a colorado and have fun snapping cranks with anything over stock power. How fun
Got a lot out of this one boys, cheers
Great to hear bazz
Good to see Tom actually working from “this is liv’n” you tube channel.
😃
Good job you guys done at explaining a very complicated topic, many none experienced/trained mechanics wouldn’t understand or realize how important are the very basics. Nowadays we face thousands of “fb experts” telling us what is right, what is not, and being a qualified automotive technician myself, it’s really hard to convince customers to listen to professionals rather than Fb stories. KD’s are great engines, please use high quality Denso injectors, simple as that. See ya
Cool episode. Chipped and tuned my Prado year or so ago. Been pondering the injectors ever since. Maybe I shud get onto that
If it’s done over 200k I’d definitely recommend it!
Price is the only hurdle stopping many of us buying an American truck, maybe one day enough used ones on the market will help us get one
I agree 100%
More power = more physical stress. No way around it giving it more power will affect it especially on all the already worn stock parts.
10 grand later $$$$
Basic upgrades mate. Intercooler, injectors, turbo, wheel bearings, full respray, chassis extension, solid axle conversion, tune. Anyone with a set of wheel ramps and a few Ryobi tools can do this in their own shed.
@@MonsterMick 🤣🤣🤣🤣 that’s it mate
The American utes have been around just as long as any other. Infact my Ford F truck was assembled here in Australia back in 1977
We've had utes in Australia long before 1977 bud..
16.0:1 AFR is getting pretty spicy.
Agreed.
Hence why we have multiple tunes. Tune 1 suitable for towing/touring. Tune 2 suited to play!
Hands down, without a doubt, big American Iron all the way for me.
VNT arnt that bad, mine started to die at 415k ahahah
Also, did you upgrade your pads n rotors? Got all that power to tow but stock brakes? 🤔 later model calipers do fit the early models
The Silverado duramax 6.6 v8 TD was designed for GM by Isuzu
I'd be happy if my luxy could comfortably do the speed limit. I think n70 stands for 70hp is about all its got and kun26 3.0 is even worse like mine
You can buy a Colorado RG for the price of a n70. No brainer.
@@autarko Colorado's are pretty crap not to different than gwm. Weak tiny drive line I've already done the comparison. I'll probably look at Ford rangers or newer hilux. If I can ever finish paying for my dud lux
@@autarkodefinitely no brainer. Get the N70
@@simmo6035 I have an RG colorado it's bomb proof and pulls 600nm with a diy tune.. My buddy has an n70 which cost more. I feel sorry for him in his slow old car.
@@autarkoyet there's plenty of Colorado's with snapped cranks, go figure
Been waiting for this episode thanks Jocko
It’s pretty common knowledge there are no safe power gains to be had from a 1KD-FTV…
He’s just asking for a cracked piston 😂😂
@@sandowebb7302 Yep..
I installed a bigger turbo, increased common rail pressure and overhauled the bottom end and I’ve been running great for about 80k km no problem so you can
@@khaliphilemoyo607 all good buddy, good luck, mine blew up at 150k showed no signs.
Haha yeah kds are rubbish.
That 1kd will go bang soon they call em d4detonate for a reason
Well it will now that’s for sure.
Literally the first time I've heard them called that and I've been in the mines with them and multiple common rail groups. Who's "they"?
The information was excellent thank
Has anyone started an 'essentially' counter?? Essentially it would be an essential bit of research
Also we need a "for sure" counter
As an American, the american trucks pull out, run an outlast or 4 cylinder. But there are a lot more problems trying to repair it on the side of the road. And heaven forbid you try to take it into some of those tracks that you have down there. It won't fit in any way she performed without doing a lot of panel damage
Love that Luxy Jocko! Btw, which bullbar is that, ironman?
I don’t even have a diesel but if jocks in it I’ll watch it 😝
What modification must be done in the ECU, when you replace a different model of turbo?
I love my n70 but it’s gutless
I should look into this
Let me know if we can help!
well done jocko nice and informative
I'd go toyota all day, reliability over power and show, keep the content coming guys 😊
Lmao reliability. These Hiluxs were anything but reliable. The stock injectors, pistons and the turbo to a lesser extent were garbage.
@anthonyramdin1037 As you can read my comment said Toyota over a Chevy no particular make or model.. Toyota is the most reliable car....SOOTY......THE DIRTY 30......THE PONY......THE LEGEND'S
Toyota for the win apart from Daryl
@@anthonyramdin1037the pistons would shit the bed only when injectors start to fail and either over or under fuel them. I'd like to see any piston survive that in an engine. Mine are still stock and hold close to 40psi up its arse on a regular basis.
That was the best info ever
Careful with your diff jocko couldn't keep mine in one piece once tuned.
A very informative video. Cheers
what happen to the electronic in the old turbo if you're gonna put the new turbo
I’ll take the Hilux, there’s no substitute for reliability 💪👌
It always amazes me how little power these Toyotas have, compared to other makes and models. My jeep for example with the same size turbo diesel engine, has the same power without any mods, as Jockos Hilux now has after having all those mods fitted.
Have you got the Mercedes engine
Yeh but jeeps are heaps of shit, unreliable AF woeful engineering aren’t they made in India or a similar 3rd world country???..
Getta PATROL TD42TI
or a Cruiser 80series. Japanese Quality Engineering 👍👍.
Not at the wheels
i am in England and got a 2010 N70 2.5 with manual gearbox. I would love more torque.
Thanks for the tips. Also, I love my hilux too much to drive anything else.
And install an EGT gauge.
Dunno about yank tanks, would rather get a 100 series if I want that power tbh.
I'm in America and have had many full size trucks, but I would love to have more small and mid size, small diesel trucks here.
@@harrywalker968 yes the ranger is back, but as far as I know it doesn't come in a small displacement diesel, which was my main point. The F150 is a 1/2 ton full size truck, always has been.
The luxy is looking even better as the episodes go on 👍
Even a stock Hilux will go much, much faster with a mullet like that behind the wheel.
Just bought the 24 48v Rogue, anyway we get this done with out voiding warranty lol?
The American trucks are awesome but big! Heavy and wide they would be a bit limited in the bush mainly because of that size. But dam cool.
1 first one great video man keep it up
Yes just brought a Silverado 👌👌
I always thought manual was better as it’s simpler and less things to go wrong. Also how do I know if I’m getting a good tune? Or if there ripping me off and destroying the engine?
Quick question with the injectors.. 2008 4jj1 manual colorado with egr delete and cooler delete... temp gauge rises fast under acceleration but drops when costing but doesn't seem to be pressurising cooling system
What if you have a manual. How would you upgrade your transmission. Just a heavier duty clutch?
Marlin crawler website has a couple of upgrade parts for r151f gearbox, but it's not much, it's just the initial weakest parts. They can only handle so much regardless.
Npc do a extra heavy duty clutch/flywheel kit.
And that's as upgraded as it gets for R series manuals as far as I know.
What if it is an older donk and not common rail? Tommy is a wizard. Good t
Try taking one of those big American "trucks" on the High Country tracks that are built and maintained with "Australian" vehicles in mind.
I know a guy who got one of the big Fords pick-ups, but that was because he used it for his aircraft engine business and wanted to carry one radial engine in the back and another on a trailer behind it.
He had a legitimate reason for it.
My GQ Patrol Wagon LWB is about as big as I'd want to drive offroad in our conditions, outside of a specialist vehicle (like a fire truck).
I love the detail in these vids and look forward to a vid regarding the old px1 ranger my old girl is lacking a bit of power these days 😅
A tally of the build cost at regular retail price would be awesome when you finish!
15k at least
so far!@@autarko
@@autarko 15k at cost price without labour maybe.
@@bennettw4300 I guessed 15k when only a few minutes into the video. Noone in their right mind would do all this work.
I would love to have one from the US
If I had the money mate I would def go the f350 or silversdo
Aussie rigs deserve on aussie tracks the american trucks are not designed for aussie conditions and parts are not as easy to get so I would stick with the smaller rigs over the big thursty american trucks