These guys deserve their paychecks because this type of work is aggravating and hard on the body. I beat on wrenches for years and I don't miss it a damn bit. It takes a exceptional mechanic to do that kind of work and deal with the customers.
It’s not that hard on your body. A lot easier than my last career choices in flooring and also concrete work. Being a mechanic is easy as heck compared to those jobs
Judging by the newer looking TrickFlow cylinder heads, studs and nice looking headgaskets, the current customer bought truck the way it sits, and previous owner had a coolant problem, order the trick flow heads studs etc, put it together to find that it still had the same issue, filled it full of stop leak, hence the Sandy looking stuff, and sent it down the road, for the current customer to deal with, unfortunately to many people that scam people in the world anymore, and stop leak causes all of it!
that sandy looking stuff is from a bottle of head gasket sealer. i tried it on an old chevy 2.8 v6 years ago and then still had to pull the heads off of it. so i saw it leave that stuff all around the cylinders. and the only time i have seen a crack in a cylinder wall was because i kept driving another engine with a bad piston slap in it. don't know if that was the cause here or not. since the cylinder is scored, that would increase the gap between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall. if it was bad enough then it could have caused the slap which lead to the crack. that's just an educated guess though. but i'd almost bet money that sandy stuff is head gasket sealer!
The owner suspected a blown head gasket or something similar. Went down to the local napa store and bought the last 5 bottles of stop leak...cant blame him for trying.
The oil filter housing is notorious for mixing coolant and oil when gasket goes bad. That looks like the original powder stop leak in the block. It usually comes in a tablet form
Another item you need to consider, is the Radiator. If i'm not mistaken, the Oil cooler runs though the radiator. I've seen those leak before and start to mix coolant with oil. Just something to check. I'm more familiar with Mopars. Not really a ford guy. I could be remembering wrong. But i do think the cooler is part of the radiator on this one.
The oil cooler on this engine is the aluminum puck hanging off of the oil filter mounting. The cooler in the rad is for the transmission, and trans fluid coolant mix is pink.
@@SkorpyoTFC Not true at all!!! Coolant mix ATF is exactly like what you saw in the footage. I can testify since my 08 Pathfinder had the same issue. And the cooler oil hint in his comment is the transmission oil cooler that ends up in the same coolant radiator thru different contiguous lines with the coolant.
Check the engine oil cooler? Easily could've popped. Also, these engines are known to have left-over casting sand and flashing, but the build-up could also be galvanic scale, if he didn't keep up with coolant maintenance.
I think people think they'll save money somehow by keeping quiet, leaving things out, or straight up lying sometimes. "I better not tell them I did xyz because then they'll 'get me' for this/that." We always find out what happened. Lol
It’s very likely that cross-contamination occurred between the coolant and transmission lines, which corroded at the bottom of the radiator (contiguous). The milky appearance in the coolant is a clear sign of this problem. The sand is likely carried over by the coolant from the corroded line at the bottom of the radiator sucking up sand while driving on dirt roads or on the beach. I experienced the same milky coolant issue in my 2008 Pathfinder when cross-contamination happened with the radiator. I strongly suggest you also check the transmission fluid. Since the gasket looks fine, the issue could be transmission fluid mixing with the coolant. It'd be a matter of time before the tranny dies without warning usually. Just my two cents; I hope this helps!
I know the 10th Gen 5.4 f150 motors are notorious for the oil filter adapter gaskets failing. It’s a single gasket that both the oil & coolant flows through, overtime they fail & some cases can bleed fluids into one another.
I have been having this problem in my 03 Dodge 3.7l for years. The heater core stops up with this sandy stuff all the time. At first I thought it was crucible material left over from the block casting. Now I believe it is the antifreeze breaking down into crystals from age because it is becoming more of a problem. I have always used Mopar antifreeze mix with distilled water. I need to find a heater hose filter and drain the block with a flush. I like to find out what it really is.
Don’t use distilled water. Use demineralised water. During the distillation process, water is vaporized into its gaseous phase, so all its impurities are left behind. These impurities include a number of minerals, including “calcium” and “magnesium,” the two components of water “hardness.” The water is then condensed back into its liquid phase, so the resulting liquid is pure water - in fact, some of the purest water on earth. But the problem is that when water is distilled, or “stripped,” of its minerals and impurities, the resulting solution is composed of chemically imbalanced “ions.” This leaves distilled water “ionically hungry,” so it will actually strip electrons from the metals in a cooling system as it attempts to chemically re-balance itself. As it chemically removes electrons from the metals of cooling system components, distilled water eventually does extreme damage that could lead to cooling system failure.
@@stephenpage-murray7226 the problem in my area is tap water is disinfectant with liquid lime and highly corrosive to aluminum when heated. Aluminum components on this motor show no sign of any corrosion in very good shape for a 20 year old motor.
@@stephenpage-murray7226If you buy pre mixed coolant from any manufacturer it is distilled water they are mixing with their products. If you get the concentrate they tell you to mix it to 50/50 the same way with the same water. All of them say the same thing. The coolant is developed with corrosion inhibitors along with other stuff that keep electrolysis at bay to be mixed the way it was developed. Just needs to be the correct coolant for the specific vehicle.
Probably somewhere down the road some “STOP LEAK” was put in, and whoever thought they rinsed it out after making a Repair! Looking like a New Engine, do the Proper Upgrades, and his Great Grandchildren will be Showing the Truck!!!
Powdered metal block sealer. Also the K&D pellet sealer leaves that kind of debris. The entire cooling system, that can’t be thoroughly cleaned must be replaced.
the issue with that is, if the oil cooler is mixing fluids, theres another underlying cause to why an oil cooler would get so hot it would crack or why it was cracked by somebody elses mishap, (my knowledge of oil coolers and their fails is strictly from AUDI, VW, BMW)
17:10 common calcium/potassium oxide mixed with zinc manganese oxides, it was filled with straight water a time or two likely because... they are required to do that at drag strips, that also means the head studs are very likely junk as well just because they did it.
but wouldnt a sane person flush with normal coolant again after the strip? i doubt from a few runs over the years it would crystallize that bad. plus it doesnt seem like a full on drag spec lightning just a beefed up engine mainly heads, studs, upgraded supercharger
Oil cooler probably ruptured I have seen it happen before and the fluids mix.Also the engine was running good and not smoking wich is another hint.I'm thinking taking the motor out/apart was not needed.
I don't like fluid to coolant heat transfer systems. We don't get hard freeze where I live, so I install regular oil-to-air coolers. I've read where transmission fluid can be over-cooled, but if you think about it, how can a vehicle run just fine when it's 50-degrees out? Besides, my temp gauge shows normal trans temps around 110-to-125, so don't tell me that's too "cold."
Oil cooler is the failure not head gaskets. Everyone is so quick to say head gaskets. I swear to god if i don’t see main bearing or rod bearing damage, im gonna be so mad you guys wasted that customers money. I pray there is actual mechanical failure. At this point the truck should get a high horse power build on that long block, since the block is already torn down. that stuff is calcium build up from not doing a proper coolant flush not a big deal.
I can proudly say that I have Paul Walker's red Ford Lightning sitting at my desk at work with the other 'must have' cars from the OG Fast and Furious movies.
@@thebeddoctor4273my thoughts well. This motor has an upgraded heads and blower and the oil pan has been off too based on the silicone slathered on where the pan meets the front cover. Too much work done on this motor for it to be casting sand from the early 2000s.
Not to be critical, but I would have used a fender cover on the painted core support, and cut up couple of boxes to save the fins on the condenser. But that’s just me..
I would have pulled the cab, but if not, I would have at least removed the bumper and grill to prevent additional damage as well as cover the condenser and core support. That customer is going to be pretty pissed off when they realize that their white finish is stained or their grill is cracked.
I have seen coolant that sat way too long get white and chalky from reacting to the aluminum like corrosion. but If its sand then either intake or was at a beach or maybe the casting from manufacturing which would be wild!!
Yep was going to say this. Abused engines (usually that have ran tap water for coolant) I've seen this before. Often the heater core gets clogged with the stuff once it starts circulating.
I worked on an engine that had a similar sandy material in the radiator. It was also pressurizing the cooling system overnight. And was able to measure .8V when sticking my voltmeter probe in the coolant.
Improper coolant thats actually a combinations of dissolved solids from the engine and galvanic crap. Coolant still cools and has its antifreeze properties but the main purpose of all the rainbow coolants and 3yr 5yr and 10yr and so on are for the corrosion inhibiters that get consumed. See this alot in Montana
It's fun to see guys doing what I used to do. I left the shop in 2000 to go and fly jets. That was fun for a while. Now, I own my own commercial HVAC company. Because of my 4x Master background, I quickly became a top player in the business. There are some good comments below. I am waiting to see what Dave says.
Tell Dave hi. I tried but no dice. I live in Mississippi, but was in Centerville and stopped to say hi and meet Dave, but was told he is always in meetings!?. Well hope he is all good and not always really in meetings. I would love to have met him, maybe next year.
Just a thought, but could that engine have been rebuilt and someone perhaps used a sand blaster to clean the block and didn't do a good job cleaning the sand out of it? JMHO
Good theory, I just haven’t seen media that could end up looking like that but between the heat, coolant, and oil…I guess it could have had an affect on the texture.
Unfortunately this was probably a simple oiler cooler issue... If oil is mixing on this 5.4 engine, it has head gasket or oiler cooler (with oil coolers known to have gasket/seals fail often enough).
Most likely casting sand, its been in there since the block was cast by ford. Mostly just lounges in the bottom of the block water jacket and doesn't effect anything. But occasionally it can become a nuisance but unrelated to this failure unless its a type of headgasket in a can i haven't encountered before
IMHO Stuff: Bad coolant loaded with solutes that precipitated out in the engine block. Might also explains the crack in the block... cavitation zone in the coolant.
My first question was - how will he know which bolts go where during re-assembly? My second question was, how did he know there were some wrong bolts in there in the first place? Wow!
at least on the timing cover the bolts are symmetrical on both sides and he could see that one bolt had an extra weird washer on it which didnt match the others , also the oil pan bolts should be all the same length and size i believe and maybe a couple was a little longer for no reason
OK...I'm only at 7:10 on this & I'm like WTF??? When a mechanic tells you it's going to be $?,???.00 to fix your $h!T AND they know how to disassemble, repair & put it back together... the only thing you should is, "Thank you. Call me when it's done, because I'm not doing that"! Great job so far!
I applied a thin coating of RTV silicone sealant on the front side of the engines oil pan gasket where it mates up to the front timing cover gasket because I had a crack welded up in the oil pan for my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine & even though I filed & sanded where it was welded smooth, it had a few scratch marks where the person who welded it roughly filed the weld back on the gasket mating surface, so it was good insurance to make sure that I didn't have to remove the oil pan again if it leaked oil. I dummy fitted it without the gasket & I ran a 0.2mm (0.008") in between the gap, it fitted snugly so I fitted the oil pan which hasn't leaked for 6 years. I did the same thing with the rear main oil seal carrier a bit over 8 years ago just so that I can be confident that it would seal, I applied a thin film of RTV silicone sealant onto the oil pan gasket & onto the bottom of the rear main seal carrier when doing a rear main oil seal replacement which still doesn't leak. I noticed that the apprentice was using normal spanners on the pipe fittings, when I did work experience as a mechanic in 1993 I was told to use pipe (aka flare nut) spanners on those nuts !
Alright, Miles!! You can stop smackin the chassis with a laarrrrge combination wrench now!! (Classic move!! Annnd, Dave bought it, hook line and sinker!!!) Blower. No bloody wonder that thing had all the head bolts let go!! The owner drives like one of our customers, lead boots and a biiiig grin. Until he broke his Tonka!
Diesels could erode the outside of the cylinder from cavitation. Diesel knock & pinging would blow the coolant away from the metal of the cylinder. Caused small chunks of the block to blow away. Would suspect heavy pinging & over boost.
First time I've watched a UA-cam mechanic use words I'm very familiar with while working on a vehicle. Excellent video.
These guys deserve their paychecks because this type of work is aggravating and hard on the body. I beat on wrenches for years and I don't miss it a damn bit. It takes a exceptional mechanic to do that kind of work and deal with the customers.
It’s not that hard on your body. A lot easier than my last career choices in flooring and also concrete work. Being a mechanic is easy as heck compared to those jobs
@Lexidezi225 when you get arthritis in your wrist and hands years later tell me it's not hard on the body. I know been there and done that.
Alejandro working hard. Building lots of dams while taking down the engine. Perfect balance.
Pro mechanics sounds coming from that man, he's legit
Ah su perra madre? lol
Alejandro is my new favorite. Dude is comfortable being uncomfortable. Rare trait these days.
That Lighnting was Alejandro swapped at one point. Dude was IN the engine bay 😂
The quote of the day ~ "Sometimes you have to be a chill guy" 😎
The people have spoken, we love this guy!
Alejandro is moving up the ranks quick. I'm glad there's some young people who know how to work on things.
Judging by the newer looking TrickFlow cylinder heads, studs and nice looking headgaskets, the current customer bought truck the way it sits, and previous owner had a coolant problem, order the trick flow heads studs etc, put it together to find that it still had the same issue, filled it full of stop leak, hence the Sandy looking stuff, and sent it down the road, for the current customer to deal with, unfortunately to many people that scam people in the world anymore, and stop leak causes all of it!
that sandy looking stuff is from a bottle of head gasket sealer. i tried it on an old chevy 2.8 v6 years ago and then still had to pull the heads off of it. so i saw it leave that stuff all around the cylinders. and the only time i have seen a crack in a cylinder wall was because i kept driving another engine with a bad piston slap in it. don't know if that was the cause here or not. since the cylinder is scored, that would increase the gap between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall. if it was bad enough then it could have caused the slap which lead to the crack. that's just an educated guess though. but i'd almost bet money that sandy stuff is head gasket sealer!
The owner suspected a blown head gasket or something similar. Went down to the local napa store and bought the last 5 bottles of stop leak...cant blame him for trying.
@@rfwinc3261 He is paying top dollar for good work. No way that same person dumps 5 bottles of death into a super charged Lightning
Bar Leaks
The oil filter housing is notorious for mixing coolant and oil when gasket goes bad. That looks like the original powder stop leak in the block. It usually comes in a tablet form
Another item you need to consider, is the Radiator. If i'm not mistaken, the Oil cooler runs though the radiator. I've seen those leak before and start to mix coolant with oil. Just something to check. I'm more familiar with Mopars. Not really a ford guy. I could be remembering wrong. But i do think the cooler is part of the radiator on this one.
Yes that's a real possibility, seen it a few times
The transmission oil cooler yes
Happened to me on my gmc canyon and destroyed my perfect running transmission, radiator cracked at trans cooler side and mixed the oil and coolant.
The oil cooler on this engine is the aluminum puck hanging off of the oil filter mounting. The cooler in the rad is for the transmission, and trans fluid coolant mix is pink.
@@SkorpyoTFC Not true at all!!! Coolant mix ATF is exactly like what you saw in the footage. I can testify since my 08 Pathfinder had the same issue. And the cooler oil hint in his comment is the transmission oil cooler that ends up in the same coolant radiator thru different contiguous lines with the coolant.
Damn! This guy is a chill guy
Check the engine oil cooler? Easily could've popped. Also, these engines are known to have left-over casting sand and flashing, but the build-up could also be galvanic scale, if he didn't keep up with coolant maintenance.
I know Alejandro got some tortas. More content from him please.
Lmaoooo
"asuperramadre" yup he a MexiCAN
He has plenty
That stop leak
He rolls with the Pisa’s fr
Sounds like a customer not telling you the whole story.
I think people think they'll save money somehow by keeping quiet, leaving things out, or straight up lying sometimes.
"I better not tell them I did xyz because then they'll 'get me' for this/that."
We always find out what happened. Lol
I'd always tell my customers- parts and pieces don't lie. Smells, colors, debri, wear, it all tells the story.
You have to be a detective...the engine never lies...the customer always does...it speaks for its self
Sounds like an episode of House.
I don’t understand why people lie. It’s like lying to your doctor. There’s no reason to do it.
It’s very likely that cross-contamination occurred between the coolant and transmission lines, which corroded at the bottom of the radiator (contiguous). The milky appearance in the coolant is a clear sign of this problem. The sand is likely carried over by the coolant from the corroded line at the bottom of the radiator sucking up sand while driving on dirt roads or on the beach. I experienced the same milky coolant issue in my 2008 Pathfinder when cross-contamination happened with the radiator. I strongly suggest you also check the transmission fluid. Since the gasket looks fine, the issue could be transmission fluid mixing with the coolant. It'd be a matter of time before the tranny dies without warning usually.
Just my two cents; I hope this helps!
I know the 10th Gen 5.4 f150 motors are notorious for the oil filter adapter gaskets failing. It’s a single gasket that both the oil & coolant flows through, overtime they fail & some cases can bleed fluids into one another.
That is crazy!!!!! That block is
G A R B A G E!!!! THAT is crazy!!!! Makes no sense!!! I can't wait to see what you guys find out!!!
Damn.... hope he can remember how to put it back together 😂
I have been having this problem in my 03 Dodge 3.7l for years. The heater core stops up with this sandy stuff all the time. At first I thought it was crucible material left over from the block casting. Now I believe it is the antifreeze breaking down into crystals from age because it is becoming more of a problem. I have always used Mopar antifreeze mix with distilled water. I need to find a heater hose filter and drain the block with a flush. I like to find out what it really is.
Don’t use distilled water. Use demineralised water.
During the distillation process, water is vaporized into its gaseous phase, so all its impurities are left behind. These impurities include a number of minerals, including “calcium” and “magnesium,” the two components of water “hardness.” The water is then condensed back into its liquid phase, so the resulting liquid is pure water - in fact, some of the purest water on earth. But the problem is that when water is distilled, or “stripped,” of its minerals and impurities, the resulting solution is composed of chemically imbalanced “ions.” This leaves distilled water “ionically hungry,” so it will actually strip electrons from the metals in a cooling system as it attempts to chemically re-balance itself. As it chemically removes electrons from the metals of cooling system components, distilled water eventually does extreme damage that could lead to cooling system failure.
@@stephenpage-murray7226 the problem in my area is tap water is disinfectant with liquid lime and highly corrosive to aluminum when heated. Aluminum components on this motor show no sign of any corrosion in very good shape for a 20 year old motor.
@@stephenpage-murray7226If you buy pre mixed coolant from any manufacturer it is distilled water they are mixing with their products. If you get the concentrate they tell you to mix it to 50/50 the same way with the same water. All of them say the same thing. The coolant is developed with corrosion inhibitors along with other stuff that keep electrolysis at bay to be mixed the way it was developed. Just needs to be the correct coolant for the specific vehicle.
Nice Kenney Bell. That's not the stock SC
or heads. pretty sure ford didn't use trick flow, or head studs..
Get these boys some engine stands. We dont trust hydraulic jacks under cars. Why are we trusting them holding up engines with techs' feet underneath?
What a chill guy (cue the music )
Probably somewhere down the road some “STOP LEAK” was put in, and whoever thought they rinsed it out after making a Repair!
Looking like a New Engine, do the Proper Upgrades, and his Great Grandchildren will be Showing the Truck!!!
Powdered metal block sealer. Also the K&D pellet sealer leaves that kind of debris. The entire cooling system, that can’t be thoroughly cleaned must be replaced.
10:10 oil cooler...oil and coolant mixing but not "leaking" my diagnostic guess😊
the issue with that is, if the oil cooler is mixing fluids, theres another underlying cause to why an oil cooler would get so hot it would crack or why it was cracked by somebody elses mishap, (my knowledge of oil coolers and their fails is strictly from AUDI, VW, BMW)
Love the show! Wish it was longer can’t wait for the next episode!
17:10 common calcium/potassium oxide mixed with zinc manganese oxides, it was filled with straight water a time or two likely because... they are required to do that at drag strips, that also means the head studs are very likely junk as well just because they did it.
but wouldnt a sane person flush with normal coolant again after the strip? i doubt from a few runs over the years it would crystallize that bad. plus it doesnt seem like a full on drag spec lightning just a beefed up engine mainly heads, studs, upgraded supercharger
Good guess. Thought of that but could also be the result of mixing coolant leading to minerals dropping out.
Oil cooler probably ruptured I have seen it happen before and the fluids mix.Also the engine was running good and not smoking wich is another hint.I'm thinking taking the motor out/apart was not needed.
That cracked cylinder going to fix itself? Pound a sleeve in and call it good? I think pulling the engine was the right option.
If you mix green and red coolant together, it can make dirt like substance. You can use either color, just don’t mix them.
Looking for this comment. I agree. Looks like mixing incompatible coolants!
Another thing we see alot in colder areas is oil cap looking like water oil mixture from condensation from pcv
My guess is that engine was rebuilt before and that’s the leftover from shot cleaning
The oil cooler is bad had the very same problem on the very same engine, no tear down or head gaskets needed
I had a 2003 one in gray and loved it. I wish I never sold it.
probably the OFA gasket is allowing the oil/coolant mixture.
I don't like fluid to coolant heat transfer systems. We don't get hard freeze where I live, so I install regular oil-to-air coolers. I've read where transmission fluid can be over-cooled, but if you think about it, how can a vehicle run just fine when it's 50-degrees out? Besides, my temp gauge shows normal trans temps around 110-to-125, so don't tell me that's too "cold."
Oil cooler is the failure not head gaskets. Everyone is so quick to say head gaskets. I swear to god if i don’t see main bearing or rod bearing damage, im gonna be so mad you guys wasted that customers money. I pray there is actual mechanical failure. At this point the truck should get a high horse power build on that long block, since the block is already torn down. that stuff is calcium build up from not doing a proper coolant flush not a big deal.
Yes, yes, yes! I was screaming the same thing watching this. I can't believe they pulled an engine and started a teardown over a failed oil cooler.
I can proudly say that I have Paul Walker's red Ford Lightning sitting at my desk at work with the other 'must have' cars from the OG Fast and Furious movies.
Sand casting leftovers from manufacturing.
Holy crap this is 40 minutes ago hell yeah!
All of them have it
From 20 years ago?
@@thebeddoctor4273my thoughts well. This motor has an upgraded heads and blower and the oil pan has been off too based on the silicone slathered on where the pan meets the front cover. Too much work done on this motor for it to be casting sand from the early 2000s.
@@thebeddoctor4273 Yes, people are still discovering KTM 950/990 engines with sand in nooks and crannies after 20+ years.
Did yall even test the oil cooler before disassembly?
Not to be critical, but I would have used a fender cover on the painted core support, and cut up couple of boxes to save the fins on the condenser. But that’s just me..
I would have pulled the cab, but if not, I would have at least removed the bumper and grill to prevent additional damage as well as cover the condenser and core support.
That customer is going to be pretty pissed off when they realize that their white finish is stained or their grill is cracked.
Oil cooler failure will cause the oil and coolant to mix in the Ford 4v motors.
Also 2v engines like this one.
I have seen coolant that sat way too long get white and chalky from reacting to the aluminum like corrosion. but If its sand then either intake or was at a beach or maybe the casting from manufacturing which would be wild!!
Yep was going to say this. Abused engines (usually that have ran tap water for coolant) I've seen this before. Often the heater core gets clogged with the stuff once it starts circulating.
I worked on an engine that had a similar sandy material in the radiator. It was also pressurizing the cooling system overnight. And was able to measure .8V when sticking my voltmeter probe in the coolant.
Here's what I think : That's casting sand that's been in there since new. The cylinder is not cracked. It has a bad oil cooler
Great engine stands. You should send this video over to Eric at I Do Cars. He is in desperate need of one of these!
Just gotta be a chill guy
Improper coolant thats actually a combinations of dissolved solids from the engine and galvanic crap. Coolant still cools and has its antifreeze properties but the main purpose of all the rainbow coolants and 3yr 5yr and 10yr and so on are for the corrosion inhibiters that get consumed. See this alot in Montana
Alejandro my man 💪 😎
These trucks sounded great!
alejandro with the memes, my man
Great video guys
Appreciate you watching!
Merry Christmas 🎁🎉🎉 following up from Kenya 🇰🇪🇰🇪 appreciate 2 year's being followed your videos 🌺👍👍
They found white powder in the White House and nobody knows where that came from either...
They should of put a dye in oil and coolant then run it pressure the coolant to
Agreed
@JOMaMa.. the famous flashlight Dave selling have a U V light too
@ I remove oil pressure sensor (hot and cold) hook up shop air line..I also utize a T-adapter for heater hose line with regulated shop air line
That look like Calcium deposits from bad water mixed with Antifreeze. The Antifreeze/ Water boiled away and the deposit is left over..
What tests were conducted before you decided to yank the motor and tear it down?
Oil was in the coolant and coolant was in the oil.
None needed all oil coolers run 15-20k
It's fun to see guys doing what I used to do. I left the shop in 2000 to go and fly jets. That was fun for a while. Now, I own my own commercial HVAC company. Because of my 4x Master background, I quickly became a top player in the business. There are some good comments below. I am waiting to see what Dave says.
Tell Dave hi. I tried but no dice. I live in Mississippi, but was in Centerville and stopped to say hi and meet Dave, but was told he is always in meetings!?. Well hope he is all good and not always really in meetings. I would love to have met him, maybe next year.
Thanks for stopping by!
The biggest shame with the lightning and The Fast and the Furious is they didn't get the supercharger whine in the movie.
Just a thought, but could that engine have been rebuilt and someone perhaps used a sand blaster to clean the block and didn't do a good job cleaning the sand out of it? JMHO
Good theory, I just haven’t seen media that could end up looking like that but between the heat, coolant, and oil…I guess it could have had an affect on the texture.
Unfortunately this was probably a simple oiler cooler issue... If oil is mixing on this 5.4 engine, it has head gasket or oiler cooler (with oil coolers known to have gasket/seals fail often enough).
15:12 OMG….just had to let out a long painful sigh. That poor motor…..Kenne Bell though is beautiful.
AC condenser looking like Rocky in the 9th round.
I install screens on the heater hoses of my personal vehicles. You'd be amazed how much casting sand the screen catches over the years.
Cavitation from using the wrong coolant with those aluminum heads that was put on the engine or some kind of stop leak was put in it.
Guy says he wants to be buried in it.....sir that's gonna be a $18k for a new engine
Calcium from running straight non distilled water for coolant.
My guess is that the white sandy stuff is calcium from using hard water with your coolant mix.
Most likely casting sand, its been in there since the block was cast by ford. Mostly just lounges in the bottom of the block water jacket and doesn't effect anything. But occasionally it can become a nuisance but unrelated to this failure unless its a type of headgasket in a can i haven't encountered before
At 2:37🤣🤣🤣
These guys have no idea what they’re talking about. I’ve been running chocolate milk in my cars for years and they run great
IMHO Stuff: Bad coolant loaded with solutes that precipitated out in the engine block.
Might also explains the crack in the block... cavitation zone in the coolant.
I like when they get them half tour apart and see the damage and what caused all of it
Man, he (Alejandro) is fun to watch.
I say the same thing, I wanna be buried in my Toyota Corolla, but only because it’s as small as a coffin and coffins are too expensive
I would think that sandy substance is silicate build up from lack of coolant changes
I vaguely remember those things . I was 20 something and into off roading.
But that one looks like it had a bunch of bolt on crap
For a full time mechanic he dont use enough 4 letter words 😊
That sandy stuff looks like Alumaseal
My first question was - how will he know which bolts go where during re-assembly? My second question was, how did he know there were some wrong bolts in there in the first place? Wow!
They solo cup and post-it note their bolts
at least on the timing cover the bolts are symmetrical on both sides and he could see that one bolt had an extra weird washer on it which didnt match the others , also the oil pan bolts should be all the same length and size i believe and maybe a couple was a little longer for no reason
@@layzbaguette8340the longer ones were supposed to go into the oil pan at the rear main seal carrier.
The powered stuff could be Visbella radiator stop leak (it is like a powered cork product)
Someone took a hammer to the engine.😊
OK...I'm only at 7:10 on this & I'm like WTF??? When a mechanic tells you it's going to be $?,???.00 to fix your $h!T AND they know how to disassemble, repair & put it back together... the only thing you should is, "Thank you. Call me when it's done, because I'm not doing that"! Great job so far!
The only thing that comes to my mind is casting sand when they poured the metal to make the block ...
Poor Paul. RIP
The counter made me lol😂
Mixed coolant? Causing a reaction? Possible over heated cylinder causing crack? Was the lightening always a trick flow head and studs?
I’m pulling heads now also. My side hustle.
It seems these newer engines have alot of problems. There just not built to last.
That sand is from it idling to long lmao
You should hear me at work! lol
I applied a thin coating of RTV silicone sealant on the front side of the engines oil pan gasket where it mates up to the front timing cover gasket because I had a crack welded up in the oil pan for my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine & even though I filed & sanded where it was welded smooth, it had a few scratch marks where the person who welded it roughly filed the weld back on the gasket mating surface, so it was good insurance to make sure that I didn't have to remove the oil pan again if it leaked oil.
I dummy fitted it without the gasket & I ran a 0.2mm (0.008") in between the gap, it fitted snugly so I fitted the oil pan which hasn't leaked for 6 years.
I did the same thing with the rear main oil seal carrier a bit over 8 years ago just so that I can be confident that it would seal, I applied a thin film of RTV silicone sealant onto the oil pan gasket & onto the bottom of the rear main seal carrier when doing a rear main oil seal replacement which still doesn't leak.
I noticed that the apprentice was using normal spanners on the pipe fittings, when I did work experience as a mechanic in 1993 I was told to use pipe (aka flare nut) spanners on those nuts !
Maybe casting sand.
Question. So why lift the cabs up on some trucks and some you don’t?
Looks like block sealer, I have seen it look like that after being in the cooling system for a long time.
Alright, Miles!! You can stop smackin the chassis with a laarrrrge combination wrench now!! (Classic move!! Annnd, Dave bought it, hook line and sinker!!!)
Blower. No bloody wonder that thing had all the head bolts let go!! The owner drives like one of our customers, lead boots and a biiiig grin. Until he broke his Tonka!
Its casting sand all manufactures they clean most of them but dont always get it all
Diesels could erode the outside of the cylinder from cavitation. Diesel knock & pinging would blow the coolant away from the metal of the cylinder. Caused small chunks of the block to blow away. Would suspect heavy pinging & over boost.