HTS DRILLING at 900 rpm is UNREAL (you need to see this)
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2024
- In this video we test run the new Kennametal HTS drill in the big CNC at 900 rpm.
Considering the chucks weigh nearly 200kg each… and it's a dual chuck machine… I'm spinning about half a ton of steel at high speed.
But… heavy duty calls - and that hole ain't gonna drill itself.
Learned a bunch in this video, and looking forward to all the machinist with way more experience than me with this particular tool share their insights in the comments. A little bit of vibration and a slight squeal, but overall a very nice result and no loud bangs.
Thanks for tuning in!
#australianmachinist
#machinistlife
#drilling
#machineshoplife
#kennametal
i think they accidentally sold you a tunnel boring machine. unbelievable, liked and subscribed
Haha I know right. When I first saw that thing… I was deadset thinking “you can’t be serious” (having had zero trepanning experience at that point.
Now… I love our little tunnel borer 🤣
Thanks for subscribing too.
Really appreciate it
I imagine that tool was an investment, but it _works._
Totally worth it.
Not cheap, but pays for itself day one in all reality. And much better for the machine.
Spindle load drops from 85% plus on a spade drill to 54% with the HTS.
I like your humble approach to what you show in your videos.
Hopefully, this will keep the negative element that is common on social media to a minimum.
The vibration you noticed with the Drill is fairly common especially with this amount of tool engagement.
It's like you mentioned.
It's a Roughing tool much like a U Drill.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the vibration, just as long as you don't start picking up any chatter, which will start eating through Inserts almost as quickly as you went through this material 👍
That’s great advice brother. Yeah, most of the experienced machinists I talk to hold a similar opinion.
Appreciate the feedback.
I’m just here to learn, and share what I’ve learned. Ego is definitely the enemy, and I’m glad it shows on the channel.
Major focus will be long form. I’ll pop the occasional short, but I find long form far more enjoyable
That's pretty nuts. That thing is a monster
It’s a bloody weapon. So much fun to run 💯
Looks very good. There is a UA-cam channel you might be interested in called David Wilks. He seemed to stop posting video's now but they are still there. He showed the most amazing trepanning operations I would have never believed possible in some very difficult materials using home made tools on old conventional lathes. If you haven't seen them it's worth viewing.
I’ve heard great things and am definitely going to go watch all his stuff.
Thanks for the recommendation mate
These HTS KENNAMETAL TOOL need‘s a REAL STRONG machine with a rock solid tool post. If it is not stabil, the drilling resistance increases enormously and you destroy the inserts.
I remember , 25 years ago, the old ŠKODA W200 , SK 60 with a 180mm Walter HTS … nice to hear how the heavy chips are falling … but the remaining piece was really dangerous!!! A bit like a boomerang that never comes back…👍👍👍😎 Cheers from other side of the planet!
That’s good to know man. Sounds like you’ve got some really solid experience with these tools.
Appreciate the comment, and definitely agree re toolpost rigidity. We’ve had to upgrade the big lathe to a HD toolpost designed for deep drilling. Far more secure and doesn’t seem to budge. Thankfully.
It’s wild to watch a drill like that hit a piece of steel held by a 200kg chuck spinning at 900 rpm.
I have used this tool several times in the past. Kennametal is the market leader in the drilling sector
At this point I totally agree. I haven’t tried them all, but Kennamental remains my pick for drilling.
I have tried several drilling tools from Kennametal. The series with interchangeable head is extremely performing, (but high cost for head and resharpening). The drill-fix series with a square external insert doesn't excite me. Efficient, but noisy. Excellent solid carbide tips, the extra long series (30xD++) is impressive
That’s good to know.
Until we get a more high performing modern CNC (ie Doosan, DMG etc with a turret) I won’t attempt the solid carbide drills.
They look awesome, but I just know we don’t have the precision… yet
Goals haha.
Man, thanks for the comment and sharing your experience. Really appreciate it.
Solid carbide drills are very efficient tools, but require chucks with low run out and stable machines. The refrigerant pressure is very important. I work on a boring machine (Kbn 135 C), when I encounter pieces with risk of vibration I prefer to use hss tools
That's unbelievable Matt.
Very impressive, thanks for sharing.
Good job.👍👍
Thanks for the feedback mate. Really appreciate it.
Great video thanks for posting
Thanks for tuning in mate, and for the great feedback!
Your sub count is going to rocket very soon , GREAT CHANNEL !! Love from England.
Thanks for the encouragement mate. Glad people seem to be enjoying the content.
I've never had much luck with these drill as far as getting a decent finish in the hole in the last 20 years, anything without guide pads isn't going to leave a great finish. The one thing that you can do to shut it up is take a decent size C-clamp (like a 200mm/8" or bigger one) and clamp it on the shank part way down to the head. That will dampen it and you can just move the clamp as needed and then you only have to listen to it for the last little bit or if the shank is long enough you can just leave it on. Don't know the physics behind it, something to do with stress, but it works so I just call it magic.
That’s very interesting. I’m going to try it just to see! Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, we just use them as a roughing tool. Finish can be a bit hit and miss from my experience. Maybe it’s just because we do 4140… or maybe it’s operator related… but I find we’re not the only ones with this issue.
yeah, if it has a flat or two on the shank a big shifter does a similar thing.
👊👍
@@halheavydutyinfo.
The clamp kills the frequency because it rises the diameter of the rod.
Imagine when you hit a 1cm 2m rod the vibrations will travel with ease trough the thin rod but when you hammer a 10cm rod the vibration has to pass trough a lot more material and engage with a lot more mass.
So you can rise artifical the diameter the vibrations have to pass.
The vibration is buildup from the cutting edge and it starts when the chip breaks of to wiggle.
As longer and thicker the boring bar gets the dull the frequency gets what results in less sound.
There are machines made with counteracustic parts. They send out a soundwave the overlays a messured frequency onthefly and then give out a counter the soundwave to lower the singing. I dont remember the producer.
Commenting not just for the algorithm, but for the tool. Thats a nice bit of gear.
I'm enjoying the vidios. If you could show some of the finished product and a bit of explanation of how its used would be nice. Cheers, Butch.
ps, no pressure.
Most certainly can do in the future Butch. That’s a great suggestion.
I like to see to setups. So keep em cuming. We dont have any this type of engineering in the UK. We are purely a service industry to be honest. Cheers matey. Fabulous channel.
Thanks Richard, appreciate the great feedback mate. Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice project.I like it ❤
Thank you 👊
I run these drills all the time, have a Ø78 400mm long permanently in the magazine as my default drill. I can tell you, they stop making noise when the chips don't get out. So noise = good.
That’s really good to know! Thank you very much for sharing. What kind of work do you do??
Nice video!
Thanks mate
👍🏻🆙🇺🇸🫡
I once was a machinist before I joined the US Navy. Was hurt. Been completely disabled since.
Wild!
🇦🇺🫡🇺🇸💯
Thanks for tuning in mate 👊
When you faced the piece, there was a sharp peak left in the face center, this would suggest your cutter was slightly below center, .
Would this have caused the drill to be slightly off when it started, causing noise and possibly chatter.
I noticed that too. I’ll be running it again this week and seeing if it makes a difference.
Well picked up 👊
I actually think I just need to increase the feed. Test and learn…
That’s the game 👍👊
Good Day Matt...best wishes from Florida, USA, Paul
Cheers Paul! Hope you’re well brother. Bro I’m pretty sure you were the very first comment on the channel. Really appreciate the support dude
It won't be much but i'd be trying to shorten up/rigidise that indicator setup and maybe using a test indicator rather than a dial to reduce the weight. I bet you're getting more sag with that much stick-out than you think. A tiny starting divot with a centre drill couldn't hurt either. I've been trying out a new Multi Function drill on the first job on our brand new ST30-Y and already had to re-align the turret after I pushed it too hard so that was fun 😆
That’s excellent advice, and I’ll definitely try it. Thank you!
There's nothing little or badboy about it, ITS DEMONIC😈
Great video, mate! She’s a beast!
Cheers mate.
hmm yes that's an instant sub. i'm in Holland CAM programming and running large work. Cheers.
Nice one! I’d love to visit Holland one day. What kind of large work do you do??
@@halheavyduty Check out Sanders Gears and Castings.
Wow man. Around since 1846 and one of the oldest manufacturers in the Netherlands. Looks like they do some big stuff brother. Very very cool indeed.
Very nice! That thing is a hoss💪😎 Best wishes from your Allies, in the other hemisphere 😊
Love it. I had to google what a Hoss is 🤣
@@halheavyduty damn, lost in translation, hahaha. You guys rock👍😎
Grandma was Texan, so as a kid I’d developed a bunch of her sayings that none of the other kids at school understood.
Y’all come back now, y’hear 🤣
Lawd, that’s some piece of kit, almost chewed it’s way through 😮
It’s a weapon for sure
Just found the Chanel that is an amazing drill
Cheers Ralph. Thanks for tuning in brother 👊
before you face and drill first op spot drill
Wow, very efficient! I’m new to this stuff with my Haas TL-1 and what you did there looked to take a goodly amount of power. Can you estimate how much HP or KW used? Our machine has only a 10hp spindle without a gear reduction box, just a pulley drive at 1800rpm and curious if such a thing would be achievable? I have driven 40mm HSS twist drill in our 5hp manual geared head which will get it done without much trouble but work and time to shove it in the bar. I have never seen something like that. Cool! FWIW, I am not a fan of the “shorts”. I learn and enjoy more of your longer format videos I watch like this one.
Our machines are 20 & 25 hp - so by no means monster machines as far as CNCs gos. They have good swing & bores, but there are def more powerful on the market.
I like the look of the TL1! Seems like a good little machine. We could probably use something that size in the future TBH.
You could probably use smaller Udrills on it. The major issue is toolpost rigidity.
There is a large amount of z axis force generated. We had to alter ours to run the long drills, but it’s def doable.
Thanks for feedback re shorts vs long form too. I don’t post many shorts these days, mostly due to how crazy busy the shop gets.
I kinda just started posting them on FB… people liked them and then it led to here.
Wild how things evolve.
Badass
💯👊
looks like the drill from Total Recall, hey it's me Benny !!!
It totally does🤣
I loved that move as a kid
Olá amigo incrivel, e muito satisfatório o trabalho!!!
Boa sorte sempre!!!
Muchas gracias amigo! Dónde vives??
Interesting. First of your vids ive watched. Does that lathe have a tailstock? Looks like a sheetload of pressure to be putting through a quickchange toolpost and cross-slide. Id suspect thats where your vibration source could be.
We’ve since fixed the vibration, thankfully!
It’s a pretty rigid lathe, so the problem was the toolpost, which we have modified for HD drilling.
Works a treat now. Thanks for the comment too. It’s really helpful getting everyone’s thoughts.
Very good.
Why coolant pink, round stock is bleeding? :)
Haha. It’s definitely different. It’s called Holemaker. It seems to have excellent rust prevention properties and never goes off.
They were using it before I took over the shop, and I haven’t found a better alternative.
Totally open to any recommendations for high performing 4140 cutting fluid.
New subscriber from india
Awesome! Man I love watching videos for India. You guys are the kind of heavy duty l, especially in big lathes.
Is that Pepto-Bismol you're using for coolant? Wild material removal rate!
It sure looks like it hey 🤣
nice to see a little bit of proper machining instead of wire-wool turning. 👍
I've used drills like this quite a lot and if the machine has the HP i'd consider loading it a bit more per RPM - maybe 0.2 possibly with a slight drop in RPM - should give comparable cycle times.
I really wonder just how rigid the toolpost arrangement is though if im honest. Vibration dampening can sometimes be done by wrapping a bicycle inner tube tightly down the shank and securing it with a couple of jubilee-clips (or hose clips or whatever you call them). This is how i've reduced the resonance in the past. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
Same thing also works with smaller boring bars and elastic bands.
I’m definitely going to try that to dampen vibration. Thanks for the tip.
The toolposts are actually a custom heavy duty design, modified from original Dixon toolposts.
So far they seem to hold really well, but we did have some issues with the big lathe originally, as it didn’t come with the HD option funnily enough.
Meeeega problems with it wanting to rotate.
i would reduce the feed the feed for the first 5-10 mm with 50% and then go full force
Great tip. We have it currently at F0.05 for 7mm, then we send it.
RPM is constant at 750-900
Still playing with it. I suspect I might need to feed harder if possible though?
We have the same Harrison Colchester lathe at work, received only about 2 years ago, but smaller. Chuck is about 10 inches and goes 2700rpm. I think the model is alpha 1400XS, which is the length between centers I think. I never thought those lathes were capable of such drilling, but I guess with good setup it should do it no problem. However, the Z axis will climb 80% and more when using U-drills of diameter 40 3xD, the noise is really bad. The tool post is a quick change one, I think they are less rigid too. The X axis zero will regularly move a little bit. It doesn't have a home position it seems so it loses long term track of it. Also I think the touchscreen is a step down, and while in alpha programming mode it is sometimes slow for inputs to register
Yeah, I hear you. We had a few toolpost issues but modified it to make to way more rigid.
I might do a future video on that topic, as it took a LOT of troubleshooting to get it right.
Seems to work pretty well now.
I have a 1400XS with OiTD controller and home is G28 U0 W0
Very similar to ours. I dont know about you, but I find it a great machine and really enjoyable to operate.
It is enjoyable to operate, but the tool post we selected isn't as rigid as we expected. It's a small machine but still. And the last time I tried a G28 it went X- until soft travel limit. I think it's not set up properly
Chips like that you need to open a Kebab shop.
Haha. Classic!
Great Videos Mate !
I make parts for the HDD industry now in Vic we use some of those threads what’s the best way for me to contact you? Cheers keep up the great content.
Awesome man. Flick me an email to halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com and I’ll reach out during the week for sure 👍
@@halheavydutywill do thanks.
Legend. Look forward to being in touch brother.
new company slogan: they more drills you break, the more we make
That’s the most appropriate slogan imaginable for what we do 🤣
Bloody love it.
That was awesome, those chips were insane. Did you finish the facing pass at 1222 rpm? Thanks for sharing. Cheers👍
The facing pass was at about 550 rpm
The drilling cycle was at 900 👍
@@halheavyduty What was your feed per rev?
Face cuts are 0.25
The drill is 0.15 but I think I need to run harder TBH
@@halheavyduty I wouldn't run much harder than that
Yeah, I stick to those feeds as a baseline. Never run roughing past 0.35 for outer turning.
Finishing tends to be good at 0.25
I’m relatively conservative with how hard I push the gear and keep spindle loads at around 40-50% most of the time too.
What is the coolant you are using?
It’s called Holemaker. I’m not totally sure if it’s even intended as a CNC coolant, but it seems to work just fine.
We get great life out of carbide and it has excellent rust prevention properties- which is super important considering the nature of our work.
Wrap a old v pulley belt around shaft it will reduce vibration greatly
Really? Interesting idea. I’ll try that. Thanks man!
@halheavyduty i was doing that before those super drills come on the market, alot of the skills i learnt in my time as a engineer have be lost , as there never taught , i was a manual machinist as a young man and learnt from 2 old timers , 50 years ago ,my last job in engineering i was maching hydraulic cylinders and rods cylinders 3 m diameter 12 m long 12 tons, and the rods were 500mm uptp 745mm,
I totally hear you re lost knowledge.
I’ve got solid hope that there is a real reawakening of interest in engineering and machining.
It’s not taught or encouraged enough in school (certainly wasn’t for me) but I think a positive side effect of visual media is that people (particularly young) can now SEE what’s possible.
Those cylinders sound insane to machine. Where are you based Paul??
@@halheavyduty west yorkshire england, my home town had massive engineering companies, in the space of 25 years 20,000 engineering jobs have gone😢,
It’s really tragic how the ‘leaders’ of the western world practically handed the foundational bedrock of our prosperity offshore.
Same here in Australia. We were once a mini industrial powerhouse… now we’re just a big sandpit that sells raw materials.
That said… my job is to repair the rigs that dig the sandpit. So silver linings do exist.
I do see a renewed interest in hands on professions in young men especially… so subtly hopeful for the future.
Use the coolant straight away & 5% increase feed, nice drilling
I agree. If you start the coolant before the inserts are engaged, you will extend insert life even further. I appreciate you didn't want it spraying all over and maybe that's why you started once the tool was in the hole. Anyway, nice video and I'm glad you've experienced the amazing results the HTS system delivers.
Will try that for sure. Yeah, we usually run coolant immediately… just turned it off for the video
Cheers Mike!
So just under 3 minutes for that hole if my math is correct? Impressive if so.
Yep. Just under 3 mins
You’re dead on.
900 x 0.15 = 135mm per min
380 / 135 = 2.85
2 mins 48 seconds more or less
Three mins to allow for the 5mm slower start where we halve the feed rate.
Keep the pressure and try to turn down the rpm's a little
I have both had a drill and a boring bar that was screaming like crazy. I kept the pressure and turned down the rpm's by about 45-50 rpms and it sounded so much better. Same with the finish. It only took like 7-10 sec more pr part witch was like nothing for a part that was at like 6 min and 30 seconds
The better the bored hole finish is the better/easier it is for the tool afterwards
I’ll try that for sure. Will be playing with both feeds and speeds to find the “comfortable maximum” for the tool.
We don’t try to max things out as much as a lot of people… I’m just interested in getting the job done without breaking shit
@@halheavyduty thats how it should be. dosnt matter id you can get it done fast if you can't do it stable enough to be able to count on it. i mean it's not a swiss type lathe where every second couth and you got max stability
dosnt matter if you can run a part 3 secends faster each if you can only make 1/3 the amout of parts per insert. since that way you actually spend more time makeing the part ( all the stop's to change insert quickly adds up in time )
💯
How the collent is pink
It’s just the weird brand we use. Has excellent rust prevention properties and seems to do the job
Hi Matt, great content I have sent you an email regarding drilling.
Thank you very much.
Appreciate it!
It seems most of your products have a through hole. Would it not make more sense to get hollow bar for this, and skip the drilling entirely?
He said in a different video that buying thick walled tube in 4140 in Australia is either really hard or its simply not available
It would indeed, however we can’t source 4140 hollow bar in Australia.
That, and most of our products have different holes each end, often varying depths.
Great question mate.
Love it.
@@halheavyduty Even if it was available hollow bars cost 2-3 times more than solids. Especially in stainless steels,that's why I prefer to drill them from solid. Just for an extra minute or two of cycle time you save half the material cost. Of course within reason not going to bore out a 300 dia. hole by drilling.
This is true.
Hence why the core drill we run is so useful for bigger stuff.
We get the job done in about 1/3 of the time and get a $400 billet for free.
Our prime minister Justin Trudeau would love you because you use pink coolant🌈. Sorry, could not resist, great video by the way.
Hahahaha. Love it. Castros son clearly approves of our coolant choice
@@halheavyduty Hey Matt after seeing the above comment in regards to coolant colour , if I were you I'd change it first thing tomorrow morning.😂😂😂
Don’t worry… it absolutely crossed my mind. Fark.
I subconsciously refused to go see the new Godzilla movie because of his new woke upgraded pink atomic breath 🤣
This guy is almost as long winded as an American.
Haha. Accurate AF
Grandma was Texan, so that probably explains it 🤣
"These go to eleven"
They do 💯 🤣
Crap
✌️