How To Repair Rotted Door Jambs
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
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This video from The Honest Carpenter will show you a COST-SAVING door jamb repair. There are about $10 of materials in this repair, and it can be carried out in 1-2 hours by anybody with reasonable tool experience.
Tools:
Oscillating Multi-Tool
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Chisel:
16 Oz Hammer
Large screwdriver
Combination Square
Brad Nailer/Compressor
Tape Measure
Utility Knife
Caulking Gun
Materials:
Construction Adhesive
Galvanized Brad Nails
Elastomeric Sealant
Treated 5/4 pine
PVC Trim
How-To:
1) Mark lower 12-16" on door jamb with straight line using combination square and pencil.
2) Cut through marked line with oscillating multi-tool.
3) Carefully chisel and break out lower portion of door jamb
4) Measure up from threshold to cut line
5) Rip 5/4 pine to door jamb width
6) Cut new door jamb piece to length, remembering to add 5 degree miter to bottom
7) Install shims to bring door jamb piece out flush
8) Install door jamb piece with construction adhesive and brad nails
9) Caulk new door jamb assembly
For a detailed article on the OSCILLATING MULTI-TOOL used in this video, just click here:
thehonestcarpenter.com/blog/t...
For more tips and articles, visit us at The Honest Carpenter website! - Навчання та стиль
I called three separate carpenters for estimates on repairing my door jamb (walk in cellar). Both sides were rotted on the outside in the jamb to a height of 24". They all said the entire unit must be replaced (including a door) and quoted me $1200.00-$1450.00. I wasn't born yesterday, I could tell they were thieves. I bought a cheap oscillating multitool for $39.00 at Harbor Freight tools. I took out the weather exposed side cutting it by the door stop. I purchased PVC trim at HD. I'm old so I took my time. Took me about 6 hours of fussing. Total cost was $175.00. I was told it looked better than what a carpenter could do. It will last forever being made of PVC Veranda. So it matched, I did all three sides and used top quality stainless screws. I know I went a bit overboard on framing the door. But it looks so good. I kept the heavy steel door and there was not one bit of rust on it. I originally installed the unit 37 years ago.
Will ya come fix mine? I’ll be waiting by the mailbox for ya!
@@e.conboy4286 I'll gladly do the fix for you. I'll give you a break on the price. Give me $1,000 plus airfare.
Any pictures?
After doing this job three times in 10 years on the same door, I finally ripped all that trim out and replaced it with vinyl. No more painting, no more rotting. Did the same thing for my garage surrounds, for the same reason, with the same result. Looks great, no more rot!
You should've learned your lesson the second time and used treated wood lol
I was just wondering the the same thing. Why not replace with PVC. It cannot rot. Even pressure treated is more resistant to rot and water damage, but it’s still wood. The only downside I can see with using PVC is it’s not as durable as wood, it dents easily a door trim or window sill that shouldn’t be an issue, but a garage frame? In the winter months we get snow, and shoveling out around the doors could be an issue. How well has yours held up to life?
@@amanuelwordessa4057 I did...and the treated wood rotted as well, which is why I went with PVC the third time.
@@jamesmchugo9422 My door frame has been in for five years, my garage trim has been in for four. I did have to replace one piece of garage trim after I accidentally hit it with the auger on my snow blower. Other than that, it has been remarkable resilient.
Ah nvm then... Unusual for treated wood to rot but it is still wood I guess
Thank you for taking the time to put this video together. I had been putting off this job on a couple doors for too long and tackled them today. They look better than new. Before reading the comments, I also made a few modifications that have already been mentioned (45 degree horizontal cut, plunge vertical cut so the old/bad piece comes right out). But watching the video made the job go MUCH faster and problem-free. I realize that the video is 2 years old, but wanted you to know that it is still helping people! Thanks again.
45 degrees going upwards or downwards? And what is plunge vertical cut, please? Thank you!
To make it easier to cut a straight line, tack a guide strip to the lower part of the board. Let the multi-use tool blade rest on the guide strip while cutting. Even someone like me who's hands shake quite a bit can make a straight cut this way.
That's helpful as well! I was trying to hang cabinets the other day, and found the tip of putting a strip of straight 2x4 level as a shelf to make the cabinets easier to hold and easier to get level.
In addition it can be good to have the guide block be beveled so that it’s at say a 20:degree angle (ripped on a table saw or cut on a mitre saw). When you run the saw along tip it to the angled piece so the remaining jamb is angled down and the piece you put in is at the same angle also cut at the same angle on your table saw or mitre saw. That way it is flashed downward allowing water to be less likely ever to infiltrate the joint. Not a huge big deal but added protection.
Absolutely. A speed square works too.
@@alexmacdonald1998 yeah that's what I use
Ditto. You can even put an angle to it and will match up rather decent.
I'm new to doing my own home wood repairs, and for the last 2 months I have seen over fifty videos on door repairs and on this one video I learned a whole lot more. I feel like your in my head knowing all the question I have about this kind of work and you have all the answers, thanks and I have subscribed.
Thank you Hi-Yo! I always try to over explain a little bit because I know how many questions my clients usually have for me. I’m glad this was helpful. Thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for your video. I repaired a rotte door jam on our outbuilding using these instructions. Worked like a charm and looks professional! My husband was impressed. He said "now I don't have to hire someone." Hell, no, we can do it! Thanks to you!!!!
Sorry....meant rotteD and jamB. Talking to a computer to type is nonsense. Reminds me of why I do not do it often.
@@KayKay0813 you
@@KayKay0813 you can do the
Great work !! From a retired high end custom home builder !!! I have seen these situations a million times !!!
Wow. I just came across you because I had other questions to ask and I'm watching your videos and all of a sudden there was my problem video. Thank you so much you are a saint. I'm a 55 year old female who had wood rot on these door jambs and first I thought it was termites it was termites but I guess it's not mine is pretty deep. But I'm going to do everything that you said again I'm a 55 year old female and I'm going to dig in. Thank you so much for all of your kindness and support and help for people who need you
Additional tip - use the caulking to seal the end grain on the bottom of the piece of wood. Put a small amount on the end grain and rub it in to the wood. Really helps it not rot in the future.
Thanks for posting this great video. My parent's house needs this kind of repair, now I know what I need to do and how to do it. The only thing that I would do in your case is not use the shims but use long strips of would, the thickness needed and put them behind on each side of the new board in order to have an even backing. This video was very informative. Thanks again.
Cuervo Vallejo Thanks for watching! That’s a good call. You’ll get pretty much fail proof support that way 👍
Used your video to do this today. Was able to find a three foot section of jamb at Home Depot. So didn't have to cut my own groove. I sealed the ends as you suggested which is a good tip even for treated wood. Thanks for putting this together and supporting DIYers.
do you have a link by chance?
the multi tool is a really nice tool to have, it does wonders. It is one of the best tools for a great job, to remove a rotten door jam thanks for showing us a great vidio.
Thanks Mark! Totally agree, I use the multi-tool on nearly every job. A lot of these repairs I wouldn’t even attempt if I didn’t have one!
@@TheHonestCarpenter Time to get a cordless, love my M18 Milwaukee.
I was taught by a professional carpenter to cut in a step pattern rather than cutting straight across. It would lock in better and be more supportive. Thanks for sharing!
And by the way, thank you SOOOOOO very much for recommending the PVC boards. Replacing most of my trim, and all of the sections that are sitting on the brick with it. Well worth the money.
So wish I would have seen this sooner. I pretty much did what you did. But I didn’t use the level tool you did to make sure i had a straight line, so I had to mess with the angle in my cuts to get it to fit. Glad that I at least did most of what you recommended.
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
Great job! I love this fix. I would probably tear the whole thing out just to make sure nothing else is rotten. I had this same type of situation and tore out the old door and frame to find the subfloor was also rotten.
Thank you super!
Thank you for this. I have to do both sides to my daughter's back door, and have been dreading it. This helped a lot.
Epoxy injection and consolidation are much easier and will not rot again (assuming you took care of original water source--otherwise the wood will rot away from the epoxy next time)
Watched this video a long time ago but remembered it. I just came back to say thank you and tell you this video helped me fix my own issue here on my house. Thank you!!!!
Damn. I would consider myself to know quite a bit about home repair and remodeling. But I always learn something (usually several things) from every one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Thank you, Clark! I learned a lot about parenting from your National Lampoon movies 😁
Often wondered if a repair like this could be done. Great how to video, and really explained it well. I have a garage side door with both sides doing the same thing. This is better than having to replace the whole door.
Thanks Trebor! This repair definitely works great for garage doors, which tend to have larger but even simpler jambs :)
That was helpful to see how ours will be done. I thought I could handle it myself but after seeing all these details, there is no way I have the proper tools and abilities to do such a previously thought easy repair. You said in the video you've NEVER seen the inner door jamb with the rotten place, I have an inner door jamb on the underside of the hinge that has rotted out and so, I'm thinking either get a new door and have them just replace the entire door and thus the whole thing is repaired and replaced vs paying the carpenter the $800+ he wanted to do the lower jamb outside and the inner jamb below the hinge. Cheaper to get the door and install vs getting it repaired. So much for DIY.
Good idea, just make sure who you hire is qualified and insured, so worth having a good contractor do and wonderful installation, if they are really good they don't even mind you watching.
Get the door with the fake wood on the outside. A little more expensive , but worth it. Comes in white so you don't have to paint jambs, but you can paint if you want a different color.
Bill Rehm warranty void if not painted ALL 6 sides. Gotta read the fine print
Dude, for $800 he should replace the whole hung door and apologize for pulling your leg. That’s an astronomically overinflated estimated. Call another carp, please.
Funny, I just got new multi tool blades so I can repair my back door jamb. I subscribed earlier today and this just popped up. Good timing, good tips, thanks!
I might add, a speed square comes in really handy on this repair. Slide it to the location you want your plunge cut and use it as a guide for your oscillating tool.
Yes, I used a clamp to hold it in place got a straight cut going with the multitool and then did more of a plunge than back and forth.
Nicely done! When purchasing a new door upgrade your jamb (Door frame) to composite bottom or complete composite jamb. Generally the first place water damage is found on an exterior door is at the bottom of the jamb as this video shows. A composite bottom jamb has the bottom 6-8 inches of the jamb and brickmould made from a composite material which won't rot. Or go with a complete composite jamb. Its a great investment for a little amount. Hmmm, I sound like a door salesman or something...LOL
very nice! subscribed...as a retired painter/handyman, i like to prime both side of repair wood before it is pinned in. in my day i didn't have those oscillating tools--what an improvement over the old days. i probably would have planed a thicker repair piece to avoid the shims, but this is quicker and a good idea. also, i like dynaflex for the caulking and anything else i can use it for!
Nice job, I have jams on 20 yr. old house rotting a way and wow what a job to fix. I appreciate the help and the tips.
Glenna Gremanis You’re welcome! Thank you for watching 🙂
OMG, I have this issue in my basement where there was a flood. So helpful! Thanks.
Good vid!
Quick tip for you.
The surgical line you speak of...if you want it to disapear, very slightly bevel the existing edge and new edge of the cut line with sand paper. Install your piece, and once adhesive sets up, use some automotive body filler over that area. Sand it flush once dry, and your ready for paint!
You did a nice job, so might aswell take one more step to making it look invisible to the normal eye. The caulking shrinks back and you'll always see that cut line.
A home repair guy suggested the Bondo Fast Dry Filler. I plan to use that. Thanks.
Very nice and informative. I’ll take a pound of confidence before I start sawing into my door jambs.
A six-pack is the minimum. By sever or eight beers you'll be able to rebuild your entire house in 20 minutes.
I need to do this on our garage doors jambs. Thanks for the video, feel more confident in replacing the bottom sections rather than the whole peice now 👍🏼
Matt Booth You’re welcome! Works great for garage door jamb was well. You might consider using cellular pvc. Works great as well, and is utterly impervious to rot
@@TheHonestCarpenter ..whats cellular pvc?
@@zaneblane8160 "Cellular PVC trim is a wood replacement product made of PVC, molded into forms while in a different state than normal PVC, enabling it to be cut and shaped much like wood without wood’s disadvantages. Cellular PVC trim is like wood and is used to make trimboards, sheets and specialty millwork. It can be used instead of wood or wood-substitute trim in non-load bearing applications." You will see @ Lowe's/HD in the PVC section. Looks just like the primed wooden boards, just in PVC...cuts like wood, but won't rot like it.
Perfect. This week's project. Nice job. Thanks for the tutorial.
Been putting this off for a year and came across this while in quarantine... Thanks for explaining cause of problem. Very nice!!
You did a pretty good job on this jamb repair....
I've seen jambs rot like this for 4 decades now...and you only had two choices to repair it, either tear out the whole frame, or repair it like you did....
For the past 15 years or so, the Jamb materials have gotten better, and this type of repair should no longer be a problem....If the proper frame is used in the correct location....
I am a Door Builder by trade,, Building both standard and custom Exterior entry units....
And Currently there are 3 types of standard Jamb materials that we use...
Primed fingerjoint pine jambs, Frame saver pine jambs, and Solid composite jambs....
The primed pine jambs should Ideally be installed in locations not exposed to direct weather, like a Garage, a Porch, or location that has a large over hang......
Frame saver jambs are our main sellers, because they pretty much Eliminate the type of rot that you just fixed... these are pine jambs, but the lower 4 inches are made of a Composite material to eliminate water penetration at the Jamb/sill joint...
The all Composite frames are the best,, due to the fact of never having to worry about any rot,, but they are pretty pricey.....SOooo...
As the old saying goes.... "You get what you pay for"....
@Ol' Moe Thanks for writing in! Awesome to hear you're a door builder. My grandfather built custom doors and windows, and he was a top outboard motor mechanic as well. I've definitely seen the frame saver jambs you mention--they just haven't caught on in my area yet! Lately I've been doing this same repair with PVC, as the price has dropped so drastically in this last year or two. But pine, especially finger joint, is so prone to failure in these areas. I've never really been a fan of fingerjoint anywhere outside--high humidity levels alone seem to make the joints express. Inside the home the stuff seems far more stable. Where do you build doors? Thanks again for writing in!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I live and work near the coast of Myrtle Beach South Carolina...Here the building industry is growing steadily every year, with more and more people moving into the area....
I also, have never been a fan of Finger Joint material,, when used for any frame work, doors or windows...Mainly due to each glue joint being a place for trouble to start....
As far as the Frame Saver jambs,,, The cost only adds a few more dollars to the price of the unit...But will save you from sill rot later on down the road....
Thanks for replying back...Keep up the good work....
@Ol' Moe Thanks buddy! I've spent a lot of time down in Myrtle over the years. Tons of great memories :)
Actually, there is a third choice that I have used many times on cheap rental properties in particular. Cut out the rotted areas with a chisel. Then fill in the area with concrete mortar. Before I put in the concrete mortar I usually paint all of the exposed areas with a termite killer. This is a fast and easy repair requiring very few tools.
Awesome tip. Been putting this off cuz wasn’t confident in process, till now. Thank you
Want to thank you for showing this repair is possible. I did it like you showed. I used a scrap pvc board. Will paint when it stops raining.
Perfect! I have the exact same issue on one of my outside door jambs. This just confirmed my idea on how to do it. Thank you!
You’re welcome Web Crawler! Good luck with the repair!
Ethan, I always use an old chisel or a sharpened flat trim bar for jobs like you're showing in this video. I find that either of these tools work better than a "demolition" screw driver.
I think a chisel is better than a screwdriver for removing sections of wood, too. No matter what tool you use, you have to be really careful with the wood removal process.
Love your channel! I'm trying to learn home repair to avoid those costly contractors! Thanks!😘
Thanks. With you help I fixed my outside back door
Pro handyman here. I used to repair the same way. Will rot again. Clean up, remove rot, fill with foam, glue/nail pvc plank in front as you would a baseboard, silicone/call up to you...done in no time and will never rot again.
An oscillating tool should be in everyone's tool kit !
I 100% agree Brian!
Yeah I just bought another one, nice to have two, I have two different kind of blades on them, it makes it easier
Thank you for describing and making this repair. I really like your teaching style.
He's a great teacher.
Great video, still contains valuable information. I was getting ready to replace my kitchen storm door when I removed my old one and noticed the rotten wood. Perfection video to saved me some valuable time and expense. Added a minor change, and 😉used Foam Insulation in the cavity, this should eliminate any future moisture issues. Used your last trick chalking the base of both sides of the jamb. Tomorrow just install my new storm door. Thanks again.
Thanks for the instructions. I was about to replace the whole jamb but this will be easier. That oscillating saw is what I need.
You’re welcome Karl! Good luck with the job!
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches BEFORE you install, to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.
It would make sense to treat these ends with some anti rot product, or even apply wood hardener to stop the wood from absorbing moisture. 🤔
Rather than using a level cut as you did, I use a scarf cut sloping down to the outside so it will shed water. Silicone is not paintable so I use elastomeric caulk (Lexel, e.g.) at the bottom.
I prefer polyurethane.
That makes a lot of sense! I fear that I would find making two slanted cuts that match more tricky than it's worth, but I might be willing to give it a shot on my next repair.
@@victorquesada7530 if the guide block is at the angle you can run the oscillating blade along the block but flat against the downward bevel. You can make the replacement piece, just keeping the same angle on the table saw or mitre saw that you made the guide block with.
I was going to say the same thing!
@@victoryak86 Smart!
Better than new, I’m sure that treated patch will outlast the door, good job
This is true! A number of good suggestions have been made here (including several I made) but I can guarantee that this repair, exactly as he’s done it, will last a very long time. I’ve done it similarly and seen it last for years. The door unit will likely be replaced before anything goes wrong with this repair imho.
Thank You for sharing!
You’re welcome! 🙂
75 yr old woman doing this all by myself. And yes i have my own multi oscillating toolq
Because all men should just automatically know how to do this. You should be honored, recognized, and rewarded for your courage, bravery, and ambition. You precious, perfect, honorable, courageous independent woman. We should have a parade in your honor.
Looks so great my sons home needs to see this because his door is just like that thanks so much for the idea and the sharing this video with me once again
Thank you
I have exactly this problem on a front porch door. I was wondering if this was possible. Apparently, it is! Thank you for the help. Now I can get this nuisance fixed and in short order, too.
Nice looking repair. You can also buy PVC door frame pieces that are made for this. Kits usually include the entire frame (3 pieces), but I have used in the same way as your repair, i.e., replace just a section at the bottom of each vertical piece. With PVC, you never have to worry with doing it again.
Planning to do this very thing in coming weekends on my rotten jambs & brick mould.
Thank you for the great video, now i can fix my door
Thanks so much for watching John! Good luck with the project!
Fix it right
Had a similar problem and used a similar method. A lot of rot in behind that I couldn’t totally correct. Used a lot of wood hardened and Great Stuff. So far so good.
Ethan, you saved me five to $800 in fixing a rotten door jam at my house. I was able to get a broken door jam combination from Home Depot that they couldn’t sell for $15. That’s all the materials I spent.Thanks for the great tutorial and your videos. I wish I could buy you a couple of beers!
you think that the job you saw was a five to $800 job?
@@rfd66 yep I do, and can’t thank you enough for your idea and videos!
Just wanted to say well done. A number of comments (including by me) are helpful additions but I know from experience that this repair just as you did it is very good and will last. Take the comments as hopefully helpful additions but not as criticism or just being negative. I’m a contractor and find your channel very helpful. Subscribed.
very good replacement there .
me , i would have prepainted that slab before installing it. then apply more later for cosmetics.
awesome video !!
Thank you Scorp!
Sweet been a carpenter 40 years and I approve. Nice job
I did this same repair two days ago. I hadn't looked at any videos and today found this one. I did the same thing he did with a couple of differences. I cut the old wood out with my oscillating tool. I used a chisel instead of a screwdriver (a screwdriver, really?). I didn't glue the board in place since in a number of years that new piece may rot again and need to be taken out. I do like the idea of using the oscillating tool to create a space away from the concrete. I did think about that but haven't done it. I'll do it tomorrow. Over all really good video.
I did a whole video on the big screwdriver Anthony. I’ll take 3” extra leverage any day. Goes through pine easier than a chisel because the tip is so narrow. One of the first things ever taught to me on a construction site.
@@TheHonestCarpenter I'll have to check out that video. Thanks.
Great job. I would like to recommend that you do something else in addition to adding the cut at the bottom to cause it to clear and stay dry off the concrete at the ground level. I would also prime both the bottom edge as well as the entire backside so that it is further protected and not likely to soak up water (like raw wood would). Thanks and keep em coming!!
Dave Cates primer isn’t weatherproof. Good idea, but use an exterior paint
Yo the type of wood he ise is main thing its presurrure treated moisture resistance.
I don’t like encapsulating wood with barrier. If just a pinhole allows water inside it will rot out more quickly because oxygen is low and no way to dry. Leave inside surface alone and provide downward angled weep holes. Not as aesthetically pleasing but who cares
I did this same work on a customers garage access door here in Seattle about 4 months ago and yes, oscillating multitool here is the best thing to use. On top of replacing the piece I cut out, I also used wood hardener to treat the softened wood behind it. Then put in wood filler on top of that. then I used waterproof adhesive to put replacement piece in place, primed and painted it with marine paint and finally caulked the joints with marine caulk.
I got a feeling that repair is going to last longer than the house.
Great info! I did this same repair years ago, but in my case, the brick mold had rotted too. I actually bought another door jam (the whole thing) because it wasn't that much, and I cut about a foot out of the bottom section that I needed. I cut the existing jam with one of those circular rotozip tools, but I think using the oscillator tool would be easier.
Thanks Jay Man! I'm using pvc a lot these days for this repair, and I do the same thing you did--just buy a pvc door jamb and use that for components :)
I suppose that's great and all if your original door jamb is not too old and you can find replacement door jamb parts that match evenly.
This is a great video for the home carpenter to repair their rotted door jam from weather damage. This seems to be a common problem for the Northern states and the Southeastern states where rain/snow did most of the damages. I'd agree, the exterior door jam should be much more resilient to weather for these locations, the manufacturers could just either seal the bottom of the door jam or splice in 6-12" of treat lumber at the bottom edge, the problem would not exist. Having said that, I'd do this repair a little differently as I did at my house. Since the damages to the door jam is really about less than 6" from the bottom, I'd only replace the bottom 6" not 16" to maintain the structural integrity of the door jam (note that the removed upper door jam is still solid wood). Cutting the door jam way above the bottom hinge weaken the entire door jam to carry the door weight. I'd not use the screwdriver to chisel the old damage part out either, I'd cut another straight line from the top down to the bottom while keeping the weather trip pocket and fry out the entire piece. Last but not least, I'd not glue the new door jam wood piece into the frame stud either, because you want to be able to replace the entire door at some point in time in the future, gluing the shim and the repair piece makes it more difficult to remove them later. Once you nail in the new piece and caulk it up, it is solid and not going anywhere and the old door jam is much more structural stable.
First I thought you used my house to do that because my side door looks the same and thanks for the video. 👍🏼👍🏼
Me too!
Helpful information thank you for sharing !!
You’re welcome Joseph! Thanks for watching!
I had this problem on my door. Couple of thoughts... I consider myself a handyman and trust me, it’s not as easy to do a quality job as this guy makes it look. For one, it’s hard to tell how the door jamb is really made until you cut in to it. You may find that it’s not so easy to replicate the wood that’s there (as I did). TBH, I have mine reassembled but it’s not like it was - it’s pretty evident that it’s been repaired. Which leads to my second comment - there’s really no need to remove that much material - you just want to remove the rotted portion so start with removing 3” or so and work your way up until you’ve removed all the rotted wood. That way if you can’t exactly replicate what was there it’s not so obvious. My project gave me a new respect for a good craftsman LOL. I think within the next 6 months I’m going to have a door company replace my entire front door assembly with something a bit more “fancy” and not made of pine.
Thank you for the video! I just used it to repair my door jam. I appreciate it! Very easy...step by step.
Great to hear, Channel!
This is very good and your presentation is great! (Come work for me!) Just Kidding - or Not!
They make PVC that size or close to it. I have used it for all my windows and door jams. Never have another problem.
Except for the hidden water damage that wasn't addressed
He made another video that addresses this point exactly! That's something that I did on the one repair I have made, but the windows will be another job worth completing with that in mind.
Just did this repair. Very helpful!
Hmmmm, I need this done to my entrance..... thank you for this training 😊😊😊😊
needed to see this thank you. though im scared mine might have a little more damage then in your video. though as soon as i get mine fixed im getting me a storm door to further protect it.
U]] try g
I need to make this same repair. Although I'm also replacing the entire brick moulding with PVC, as that's rotting at the base as well. The one issue I had was with the shims. Rather than just use small pieces, would it have been much more effort to make shims that go the width of the board? Seems like it would give the replacement piece a bit more stability and a more solid fit.
Awesome! Super helpful, liked the shim work as well. My husband and I can replace our door frame now!
Awesome! Thank you! It's basically advanced LEGOs and understanding materials and building science. Knowing how to use a multi-tool and table saw helps!
Whenever I replace any vertical wood trim I put a 15° bevel aka weather cut instead of making a straight cut. To do this using the same tool you used just cut a 15°bevel on a scrap piece of wood same width as the piece you're removing and tack it to the piece you're cutting off. Short point on the face, using this as a guide for your saw. It will make the joint disappear use a small amount of caulk in the joint. Also leave an 1/8" gap at the bottom of the threshold to allow caulk to adhere to the piece you're installing. I use a nail puller to put upward pressure on the piece while nailing to get the joint tight. Sorry about the long comment but I'm very detailed when making exterior repairs. Hope you give this method a try.
Xtreme200302003 I don’t mind the long comment, I appreciate you writing in. Question though: is a weather cut necessary for this application? If underside of cut above is sealed, and top of new piece is sealed (something I didn’t do a good job of showing in this vid, but have put in other vids), what do you think the odds are of getting water penetration on a vertical jamb? Especially with surface caulk and paint to follow. I like the 1/8” short trick though! I tend to use my 5-in-1 to scoot under and lift a piece in similar situations. Let me know what you think...
@@TheHonestCarpenter The short answer is , just try it and see for yourself. I think the joint turns out better. Is it absolutely necessary....no. It is just what I was taught to do when installing new exterior trim. You do pay attention to detail and turn out good work, I'd hire ya in a heartbeat.
Xtreme200302003 Thanks buddy! I appreciate the advice and support. I’ll give the block guide a try on my next go round. I’m always up for learning new methods 🙂
Awesome advice extreme person
@@Xtreme200302003 I can appreciate the value of that angle & the integrity of the joint on the surface
I need to do this to a door I installed less than 5 years ago. Thanks for the info sir.
You’re welcome, Kurt!
Thank you for sharing. I needed this video and hopefully we can fix it ourselves and save thousands $$.
Thanks for the tip. I've been wondering how to go about resolving this problem on my garage walk in door.
that last tip about cutting the bottom and adding silicone was interesting. I'll do that on my new jamb.
Agree. Makes a lot of sense.
jamb.....correct spelling
@@bshadrick For god sakes.
This is why I have a Larson heavy duty storm door. With the lock on the storm door it is additional protection for you as you answer your door. If someone wanting to rush in they have to deal with heavy duty storm door while you close your main door and lock it.
Sweet! Great video. This will make a bigger job more easy! Thanks mate!
Awesome job.....great explanation from start to finish.
My carpenter uses PVC board for those repairs. Nice vid .
Thanks Gary! PVC is a great option here too--a little more expensive, but every year I feel like I see it come down in price a little
Excellent idea
Iv done this repair many times and not always because of rot actually. My leading reason of this repair is actually storm door damage. I do it slightly different with the same goal, just different approach. I continue the "control cut" as you call it right down the interior stop. Once new jamb fits flush with the existing jamb, I run a pencil line along the back of my patch " representing the weather stripping" and run a rip. It will take two passes to open the kerf correctly. Most of the time it is approximately 5/32 or a blade and a half. Too tight and the stripping the never fit into loose and it will not stay in place. Then to finish everything off I've always used epoxy wood filler so I can sand Prime and paint within an hour
My saw blades hate PVC. I don’t like it either. There is a soda ash composite that can be submerged if you’re after something esoteric with limited availability and application...
@@TheHonestCarpenter cost of material shouldn't contribute to choice it's charged to customer anyway. ALWAYS use best materials for ALL work & not cutting corners sacrificing durability of repair
All these “experts” and “perfectionists” should have their own YT channel. I’d bet if you visited their homes, they wouldn’t be so perfect. Thank you for the video.
Exactly! I ONLY work when I get paid
Thanks for the info. Recently bought a house that has some rot by the back door I'm looking to fix soon. Haven't done this kind of work before so it's helpful to see how it's done.
Good luck, Daniel!
Very helpful and detail video for DIYer. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome kimour, thanks for watching!
For those who may have a hard time cutting a straight line. You can take a scrap piece of wood with a straight edge and screw it below your line. This will give you something to rest your tool on. It won’t just help with a level line but keep your pitch too.
With this repair he’s already ripping with a table saw. No harm in ripping down a scrap piece of 2x6 etc and avoid the shims.
He’s doing a cheap repair for those who can’t afford a whole door. Use what materials you have.
Cut your height and angle and width as he showed. Insert the 2x6, scribe a line for your depth and run through a table saw.
Thank you Vince! That’s very well-put advice 🙂
Semper Fi , I agree. Some above complained about the method. Replace the whole board, pull the door etc.
no need for that unless the rot made it into the framing. People don’t always know what’s involved in replacing a whole door and the expense.
Great video... Thanks! Not the way I'd of done it, but it sure got the job done!
Thanks so much, Mark! I appreciate you watching 🙂
How would you have done this repair? I'll be hiring a carpenter for this same kind of repair and would like any suggestions. Thanks!
This and your undersink video have saved me a few hundred.
Glad to hear, Eric! 😄
Great professional craftsmanship!👏🏻👍🏻
Great video and great workmanship. Alternative is available though... there is a product by Abatron called LiquidWood and WoodEpox that I just used that worked well. You dig out the dry rotted wood and vacuum what’s left. Then you mix the liquidwood and brush on several times until absorbed. You then use WoodEpox and mold that into place while the liquidwood is still wet. Then you sand a bit until it matches surrounding piece and you are done. Once cured the product can be sanded, painted, or stained. Many historic restorations are done with this stuff.
Either method is good. I am not a fan of lazy manufacturers that create the problem in the first place by using pine or melamine which deteriorates rapidly when water comes into the picture.
Have a great week!
@Mountain Creek Good tip! I haven't used Liquid Wood yet specifically, but I've tried a couple other comparable products and had some success. For small patch, I think it can be a good route for DIYers who might not have as much saw experience. Thanks for writing in!
Video link?
That can be like a dentist who didn't drill out all tooth rot and then put a filling in. You cannot always see ALL the rot, and if you miss ANY, even a speck, it keeps spreading and rotting. I see painters doing that type of repair all the time on jambs and windows, usually fails. Also the expansion and contraction will be different on both materials, causing a crack, then water, then rot/failure. Don't get me started on fillers for rot.
@@edwardschmitt5710 I have read that if you stop the water source, the rot stops. Ours is cleaned up and repaired.
thanks for this!!… Nice work!
Thanks so much John! I appreciate you watching 🙂
This is an amazing repair. I'd love it if you could go into depth about a critical sub-fascia or crawlspace repair. I have done quite a few, but with the way that you think, I'm willing to bet you do it much better.
Wow. So important. Thank you, again!!!
Great video repair. Also, why not cut it out vertically with the SAME oscillating multi tool. It is made for those type of scarf plunge cuts.
@MasterHustler Thank you! You can totally use the oscillating tool for the vertical cut as well, you just want to remember to space it back a half-inch from the edge so you can create the rabbet overlap. I typically break pieces out like this just to save on blade life a little--those blades can get pricey!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I get blades on Amazon. 50 for $65 or so. They don't last as long but they don't cost $12 for 1 at the lumber yard. Nice video.
MasterHustler
fatties
With those thick shim and moisture getting in at the bottom, seems like a great place for mold to grow behind the new wood.
Maybe try thinner shims and or thicker wood
Mold really is not an issue in a little cavity behind an exterior door jamb. It won’t be able to get anywhere else.
Frotus M bullshit
English Vietnamese With Mimi mold is good for you
English Vietnamese With Mimi is you are Vietnamese you should be more respectful of family. Please rethink before saying hurtful things especially during this time.
This video helped wth my door jam project. Also got me into watching your other great videos. Hope the move went/is going well. PEACE