Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* : www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!
As a new widow, I am trying to avoid unnecessary handyman bills. Thank you so much for this video. I was able to fix two doors in a minimum amount of time at no cost versus a $50-75 bill!
After waiting and waiting to have my hubby properly fix this... Thanks to your video, I got the job done successfully the first time! With the snow now here, we NEED an exterior door that closes and latches so that the wind doesn't blow it open. Thanks so much.
As another honest carpenter since 1975, I have some suggestions for this common issue. Look at how the door is hanging in the jamb. If the bolt and strike plate hole are not aligning it is probably due to the jamb moving or the top hinge loosening and changing the alignment. The most common movement is for the door to lean at the top towards the lock side of the opening. Often just tightening the screws in the top hinge will get things into alignment . It can be good to remove one of the screws that is closest to the center of the jamb in the top hinge . Then drill its hole out with a 3/16 bit . Just drill through the jamb but not into the stud of the framing . Then use a 2 1/2 or 3 inch screw to screw into the stud and thus pull the top of the door towards the jamb . This will raise where the lock bolt hits the strike plate and often give a more permanent fix . I have also bought carbide reaming attachments for my drill which allow me to remove metal from the bottom of the strike plate, lowering the hole so that the bolt can hit the hole . I do this without removing or lowering the whole strike plate . A faster process. Of course all this depends on how far the bolt and strike plate are out of alignment . And as for lateral misalignment of bolt and strike plate , usually the bolt is not going into the hole due to the door warping. In that case the strike plate can be removed and the tongue cut or broken off to elongate the hole towards the outside and allow the bolt to go in . You can also remove the door stop if it is a non rabbeted jamb. Then latch the door and with it still latched reinstall the stop Against the door with a slight amount of play . Sometimes if just a little movement is required you can pry or tap the stop over slightly where needed to allow latching to occur .
Thanks for this, i was able to confirm this was my issue by pushing the door upwards when closing and it shitfting properly. Will have to work on this fix when I have time Edit: Lmao… sorry, fat fingers
Thanks Honest Carpenter! I’ve fixed three doors by watching your step by step guide. It makes me feel really good to handle tasks like this by myself. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
I always start with tightening up the hinges and making sure they're adjusted for even door fit. The screws that come with most hinge sets are always short and usually fail, especially in cheap doors. Take 1-3 of them out of each hinge one at a time and put in a 2"-3" #8 wood screw and now you're cooking with gas. Fixes 75% of latching issues
@@scottydog1313 hello, im assuming you're good at this kind of stuff, you're the most recent comment i found so i was hoping you can have some suggestions for a problem that i have? If its okay? Basically to put it short the wood where the strike plate would go kind of broke off, so i cant screw in any strike plate cause there isnt wood there causing the door to open and close so easily even when its locked, i dont even have to twist the knob to open, i can just pull it. So i was wondering what can i do to refill that "hole" in order to screw a strike plate again
@@freshsodaa7023 You basically need to cut a repair tenon, or block, to fit into the mortise you're going to make. I'd cut the repair tenon out of wood a bit bigger than the damaged section. Make sure it's large enough to have some wood on all sides of the hole you'll need to drill for the door latch, and about 1/2 an inch longer than the location where the screws will need to go for the striker plate. Do not make is so deep that it cuts through more than 1/2 way through the door frame if you can help it. You want to keep as much structural integrity as you can. You can then use that repair tenon as a template to mark where you need to cut. If you're not familiar with using a hammer and chisel, watch a few YT videos, and practice on some scrap. If you're new to chisel work, always cut inside the lines with the bevel facing in towards the section you need to remove, when making cuts along your edges. Clean up the spot in the frame with a hammer and chisel where the wood was damaged. Make sure it's as flat and square as you can, but it doesn't need to be perfect Then glue and screw the replacement tenon into the squared out hole. Make sure to align the wood grain vertically, to match the rest of the door frame. Let the glue dry for the recommended time at the bare minimum. I usually wait 24 hours to be sure. Once it's good, clean it up with the chisel if need be. You will need to drill a new hole for the door latch. Shut the door and mark where the latch hits to use as a guide. Drill the hole with the recommended sized spade bit. Then you can reinstall the striker plate as normal.
I had a strike plate that was off just a fraction of an inch. The file was the perfect solution. This door has been an issue since we bought our home 15 years ago. I didn’t want to cut the jamb. Thanks for the video. Glad I found your channel.
Use a knuckle wrench or a crescent wrench to bend the knuckles on the door hinge only. Tap pin out on top or bottom according to which one is closest to the jamb. Use a shim to space the door and adjust the knuckle to match the frame hinge.
I love these jobs cause 1)they’re easy 2)pay well 3)home owners are always so happy to have a non sticking latching working door. I’m amazed at how often. Doors are installed wrong. Especially pre-hung doors that take a lot of the guess work out. If you’re a trade carpenter I’d suggest hanging Jams and doing the hinges yourself. If you master that, fixing junk mdf jobs is a breeze because wood jams, trim, and doors can’t be fixed with caulk and paint
First tip worked great. Back dog door was blowing open because it wasn't latching. I have a home daycare and over time the kids yanking on the door caused it not to latch. I never comment but I agree with everyone on here- concise, informative, well made how to. Makes me want to tinker with other stuff, very rewarding.
Was a little project for a friend. The socket was at least 1/4" out of place and the door apparently never locked. I had to use the third trick, as the first two did not work much for my situation. Followed the instructions. Easy and clear. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the details. Very helpful.
Hey Tony, this is a really good point! I often start that way, and I wish I’d included it in the video. Shooting footage on the job site is distracting and frantic sometimes 😅
Tony NYC Removing one of the hinge screws from the top hinge and replacing it with a longer screw that will reach and bite into the cripple stud behind the jamb will also pull the door back to it's original position because the reason this happens is the door has begun to sag and the lock drops down resulting in not latching properly. I've used that trick for years. This is a great video and I've used every technique that was demonstrated. There is always more than one way to fix things.
Renegade Wa That’s also a really good point! Thank you for writing in! This can solve two problems at once: if the shorter hinge screws have stripped out, a longer one often precludes you having to fill those old screw holes and retap them. Just need a long screw with a head that fits in the hinge leaf countersink and doesn’t stand too proud 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter Whenever I see this issue with a door usually the first thing I look at is the reveal at the top of the door. The lock side of the door often times will have a wider reveal than the hinge side and that tells me that the door has sagged a bit and a 3 inch screw that matches the hinge screws usually makes really quick work of it. But as I said before I've used every fix that you demonstrated in this video and all of them have worked. Another "fix" is when you open a door and it slowly closes by itself.............simply pop out one of the hinge pins and tap it a couple of times with a hammer bending it slightly and when you pop it back into the hinge it stiffens the hinge enough to keep the ghost from closing it. Keep up the great work...................guys like us need to teach the stiffs something every now and again..................lol!!
I have another quick fix that I do not use for my best work. If you try tightening the top hinge and that doesn't work, stick that screwdriver between the leave of the bottom hinge and carefully close the door on it. You are trying to bend the hinge leaf just a little so that the bottom of the door moves away from the hinge when it is closed. This is very crude, and a lot can go wrong, but this can work if you do it right. You can also put a piece of cardboard under the leaf to raise it. Again, not pretty, but quick. As a last resort, check the frame to see if the door needs to be rehung. Poor shimming is often the cause of the door sagging.
Thanks so much for this. I watched it a while ago just for fun, but after removing all my doors to paint them and replacing all the hinges, I have a few doors that no longer latch. I’ve watched this again to refresh my memory. I appreciate all your videos.
I know this was put up a year ago, but I just had to thank you. Our side door wouldn't lock and I was worried about having to drill new holes because my mom usually does stuff like that. I managed to glue the toothpicks in and drill new holes for the door to lock and I'm so happy it worked and I didn't screw it up. Thank you 💜
I typically don't watch these types of videos, but you earned my subscribe due to the amount of explaining you gave us. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you so much! I've lived in my new house for two years. I didn't realize that my bedroom door wasn't latching properly until I locked it last night and the door opened even though it was locked! Your first tip was what was needed and it worked!
Thank you! I have lived in an apartment (family owned and they don't care if I modify things) for 8 years and had two doors that do not latch including the bathroom door which is uncomfortable especially for guests. I fixed both with this trick very easily took less than 10 mins to fix both doors. Thank you! Thank you! It's very rare in life that it's a simple fix.
Thanks. I did your last step to include the toothpicks. Just repaired this two-year-old nagging problem. Our silly Lab kept getting stuck behind the door. Now I can close the laundry room door and not worry about her getting stuck.
Hi Ethan! You are a super rockstar for sharing this. I had this exact issue in a brand new home. The issue popped up about a week after the one year warranty expired. The door latches worked fine all year prior. I went a couple of nights without being able to secure my back door. I wasn’t quite sure how to find a vendor to do this repair As most door and window companies are only interested in sales and installation, not Repair. Anyways I had to lower both my deadbolt and door knob strike plates and option three was required. In my case I used both a wood chisel and a Dremel to bore out the holes but I needed to understand how to put it all together and you’ve crafted an excellent instructive video here. Thank you so much Ethan. I am eternally grateful!
Thank you so much for this. A combination of the filing, driving the wood down and tweaking the hinges fixed a troublesome bathroom door that was playing up for ages, even after I put on a new latch and handle.
I just watched this and ended up being able to fix my issue by just nudging down the strike plate. I cut away JUST a sliver of the bottom edge of the recession, and everything works perfectly, now. The video was very helpful--thank you!
A couple of quick things I noticed in this video. #1 the door hinges could have been spread to close the gap at the jam on the latch-side. #2 to fill the existing screw holes use a wooden golf tee with wood glue instead. That will fill the hole completely and allow for a better fit for new holes.
Golf tee is a great idea for filling a hole completely. Never thought of that. I always use toothpicks for things like cabinet door hinge holes that have come loose +wood glue to create more "bite" for the screws.
THANK YOU! I have had three doors in my house that have not latched properly or consistently in more than 20 years. I wanted to hire someone to fix it but no one seemed to be interested. All to the good! I had to fashion a shim block for one side of the routed cutout on one side and cut deeper into the other for two of them to shift the cutout position up or down by about half an inch, fashioned a dowel that perfectly fit the screw holes (drilling out the holes first) and put everything in place with Liquid Nails. Then I put the strike plate on after trimming out what was needed on the surface to fit it. For the third, the file trick was enough to get it working. THANK YOU!!!!!!!
After reviewing your problem solutions for a non- locking door situation I gave this additional thought. I had bought a new door lock set and the door latch bolt would not lock into the striker plate. I looked a bit more carefully and realized that the new bolt that I had installed had the bolt angle coming in at the opposite direction from what it should have been. My solution was simply to reverse the bolt by turning it upside down which then positioned the bolt angle to be consistent with when the angle of the bolt hit the striker plate. This fixed the problem and did not require any of the other solutions that you suggested.
@Sigkeeper1 Thanks for writing in! You're exactly right, the curved face of the latch should always point towards the strike plate. This way it will naturally be forced into the latching mechanism. It's an easy thing to overlook sometimes when you're installing new hardware :)
strike plate was out 1/4 inch on my 2 year olds room door, she easily pushes the door open at night now that she can climb out of her crib, moved the plate up and loved the tip using toothpicks to fill screw holes, used a little temp glue to hold the plate in place to make sure it latches before i screwed in, works perfect, thanks for the video man appreciate it.
Seriously, thank you for putting this video out. I've messed with this door for like 2 hours before I thought, "Why don't I search UA-cam for help?" My problem was fixed within 2 minutes thanks to your video.
If the old holes keep messing up proper alignment with new holes, even after the toothpick filling, you can drill out 3/8" holes, then glue a 3/8" plug. This should provide a fresh wood area wide enough to mark and drill new holes without the hassle of bits wandering into old holes, or shifting from varying densities of fillers.
Holy s***, this actually worked! I was afraid I’d be in over my head trying to fix the issue, but the video was very clear and concise. I did have to deepen the hole for the latch as well but not even that stopped me from being successful. TWO HUGE THUMBS UP!
Omg 😊 thank you! I was about to call in a handyman but decided to check UA-cam first. Your first suggestion worked! I can’t even believe I fixed this problem myself - well, with your help. THANK YOU!!!! 😀
Three good ideas. Another issue occasionally encountered with the strike plate is the 'tongue' of the strike plate, which extends into the mortise. If it is bent too little it can prevent the bolt from entering the mortise enough to securely latch. Remove the strike and bend it with a couple of Crescent wrenches, one to hold the strike and the other to bend the 'tongue' if placing a large screwdriver against the 'tongue' and hitting it with a hammer doesn't work. Several viewers mentioned loose hinges. Excellent point. If the screw holes no longer hold the screws securely they can be repaired with toothpicks, etc. The first thing I check is the door reveal. Occasionally hinges become sprung. A door doesn't have to sag much for a lock to not latch. If the reveal at the bottom edge of the door is too large place a small piece of hardwood dowel, 1/4" or 3/8", as close to the knuckles as possible and gently close the door on it a few times. This will push the edge of the door towards the strike jamb and raise the height of the bolt. If the top of the reveal is too close to the strike jamb, remove the hinge pin and use an open end wrench, just large enough to slip over the hinge knuckles, to bend each knuckles slightly away from the door. This will pull the door slightly away from the strike jamb and raise the height of the bolt. This can also fix a sagging door that a customer thinks needs to be planed down because it is rubbing against the strike jamb. If the hinges are heavy duty you may have to remove them and place them in a vise. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you
Sometimes shimming the door works as well... especially if the door is sagging or not squarely hung in the frame to begin with, either due to worn-out hinges, or because the door frame assembly isn't square to begin with.
Nice video. I always have extra strike plates in my tool box when anyone of my tenants move out. I buy new locks to install n I keep the old strike plates if they are in good shape and some of them are thicker than others beside recycling is a good thing.
@Frank Fakir Thank you! Good call on the extra strike plates. I used to have stashes of most types of interior hardware in my old shop, and also my van. You just never know when I might become useful 🙂
Just chiming in to say you saved me a lot of guesswork and hassle with this excellent video. Got a chisel and cleaned out the hollow of the strike plate and whacked it back into alignment. Many thanks for sharing your expertise!
When I have had to do the third fix, I use dowels instead of toothpicks. Works better. I have a homemade dowel plate and can make 1/8” dowels to fill the screw holes. Works great.
Ikea furniture is great resource for wood dowels. most build it yourself DYI furniture has them, I liberate the dowels when I finally throw out the flimsy Ikea crap
I lived in a very Soddy trailer years ago and every door in that house had a latching problem. Through trial and error I eventually figured out exactly the three methods that you’ve shown. To cut out the wood for the door jam I just used my screwdriver as a chisel. Makes me feel good knowing I wasn’t crazy.
I like to use 1/4" drill and matching dowel, with wood glue or even Elmers. It's a tight fit and dries firmly in seconds. The old threaded wood was weak; the new solid fill is great, even when the new hole is close to the old.
My grandparents spent 3 hours trying to fix this before I woke up. I googled it, found your video, fixed it in 20 mins flat ahaha-- thank you for explaining so well, it was a very easy fix with your help! :)
Thank you for your video As a single mom I have to do all the handyman job is great to have videos like these to help us in life when we need help. I use option 2 to fix my daughter's door 🚪 it would stay close it keeps opening it self, now it won't open by itself again. Thank you for your tips.
Thank you for this video. I had to do the last option but I was finally able to fix two doors that were bothering me and my wife since we moved into our house.
THANK YOU!!! Filing it down by about 1/8" did the trick perfectly! I also removed about 1/8" of wood from the inside to make room with a utility knife. Now it shuts and latches absolutely perfectly! This door has been flying open with the wind for about two years now when not locked and it's super annoying. The guy who installed it was supposed to come fix it but never showed up. It's a dutch door and I checked the hinges to make sure before doing this. Now we can rest easy knowing the wind isn't going to throw the door open while we enjoy the backyard. Thank you for this great video!
Golf tees work awesome as does bbq skewers and dowels. The dollar store has a great selection of skewers, dowels, popsicle sticks etc. For a few bucks you can keep a nice selection of ready to go plugs for your kit.
I use wooden matchsticks from "strike anywhere" matches. I just clip off the head, coat them with glue, and tap them in with a hammer. Then I use a sharp chisel to trim them flush.
I love the first try. Was actually very hyped up by it and said out loud: "thanks guy!!!" It didn't work bc the old hole was way too high but it earned you a new Subscriber and a like. Thanks, again, guy!!
You can also drive a 3" screw into the top hinge center screw. It will catch the framing and pull the door up. Use an impact driver, being careful to not overtighten and break the screw head or split the jam. This process will pull the door up slightly providing enough upward hang to allow the door to shut. This however, may cause the door to swing open or shut depending on the door swing.
Your advice of using pliers and a hammer to fix the strike plate was genius. Video was straight to the point, has timetags and extremely helpful. Thanks.
I've spent time using the same procedure at my daughters house in South Carolina, so I sent her this video. Now every time she opens a door, she'll think of Dad.
Sometimes the strike plate and latch are in the right places of the door and jam, but over time the door has shifted in alignment (tilting down). To fix it you can bend the hinge loops inward (on the door side) and it will move the top of the door enough that the latch and strike plate are now back in alignment.
I worked on my in-laws door a few weeks ago and tried that but their hinges were too beefy to bend easily w/o leaving obvious tool marks so I switched to unscrewing the bottom hinge (frame side) and using pieces of wood shims to shim it out a touch and now works every time.
first check the hinge side, top hinge screws loose will allow the door to drop. Shim bottom hinge with thin, cereal box, cardboard to shift the latch side up.
All good suggestions David. The three repairs I’ve shown are for significant hinge side sagging (and if you don’t want to try rehanging the door). These small hinge side tweaks can help tremendously though. Thanks!
Don't use cardboard for this. It will continue to compress over time and you will be back fixing this problem again in a month or even less.Use a thin piece of metal, like a strip cut from coke can.
Thanks for this video! My balcony door deadbolt is a mess and I now feel like I have the troubleshooting steps to try and fix it. Your videos are fantastic!
My door jam was split by my son (long story). I had no idea how to fix it - this has me in the right ball park! It latches if I pull the plate down & towards me. So I'm going to try to glue it w clamps to pull the wood back together..then deal with the latchplate. Thank you so much!!! (5 years of unable to lock door!)
I feel that you did this fix mostly on the wrong side of the door. I would have asked myself first why has the door dropped? As already mentioned by someone else worn hinges. If that were the case then either replace the hinges or a temporary fix is to pack out under the lower hinge. Another fix would be to bend either half of the bottom hinge out or the top hinge in. This is done with the hinge pin removed. If the door frame has moved because of house movement then what you did would work. I used to fill screw holes like you do however these days I find that a better solution is to drill the old hole out and glue in a dowel, trim with a multi tool & then drill fresh holes. Cheers
Thanks John! You’re right, much of the repair can start on the hinge side. I’ve definitely had success shimming out the lower hinge. The only time it’s been a problem is when the door clearance is already tight on the latch side and moving it out makes it tighter. But the other things you mentioned I haven’t tried before. I’ll give them a shot!
You might want to inform your viewers to check to see if the door itself is secure at the hinge. Bathroom doors are usually hollow core and the hinge screws are real short. Making the door level usually helps aligning the the lock to the strike plate.
I did, for the most part, step by step of your instructions and door latches perfectly! Thank you so much for the easy to follow tutorial. I like that idea of using tooth picks to fill the holes.👍🏼
Put baking soda on the toothpicks. Fill the strike plate jamb holes with super glue. Sprinkle more baking soda onto toothpicks as you insert them. The soda activates the super glue within seconds. No ten minute wait.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Luthiers use it on guitars to fill in the nut where the strings have worn the slots down. Now the slots can be filed to the appropriate height. I've never seen a carpenter with a box of arm n hammer in their tool pouch?!
Spiccoli Rocks I can borrow from the homeowner! 😂 Thanks for the luthier tip. Do you make/fix guitars? I’m going to start doing tip/trick collabs with other tradespeople on my website. I’d love to do a quick article on something like this, if you’d ever want to reach out to me there www.thehonestcarpenter.com
I did it! Mine was hitting too high so I moved strikeplate up a smidge and voila!! I did have to chisel a bit of wood but it was easy and the door closes tight now! Thank you for your clear simple instructions! 🙏☺️
This issue almost always results from the hinge side. Doors hang off of hinges and sag over time. To see this, close the door and note the difference in the gap between the door and frame at the top versus the bottom. There are then several ways to either reset the hinges or replace a hinge...
Ron Fastov Thanks for writing in! You’re right, hinge side changes can solve so many problems so long as you have adequate space around the door slab. I wish I’d brought it up in this video, but was filming with clients walking around the house. Before too long I’m going to do another video about door movement, and assessing exactly WHAT is happening with the slab/casings before repairs are even attempted
The 'reason' the strike plate 'appears' to be too high, is because the HINGES are wore out. Replacing the hinges will raise the entire door back into its original possition. Your welcome...
@TheSirRip I definitely see plenty of worn-out hinges, but these were still too new to need replacement yet. Don't you feel that latch-side settling can also be a common issue? In this case, I think a slightly overspanned beam in a remodel below this door was the cause. I hardly ever see a doorway that doesn't experience at least a small amount of settling at some point, and in some cases its on the hinge-side, which causes the reverse problem, not to mention possible door dragging
What a great idea that you have for filling the old screw holes with tooth picks. I've successfully moved two strike plates on the same door using your third method and it was much easier than I thought. Thank you so much.
Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* :
www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist
This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!
All youtube videos should just like this straight to the point, no intro no music Thank you
As a new widow, I am trying to avoid unnecessary handyman bills. Thank you so much for this video. I was able to fix two doors in a minimum amount of time at no cost versus a $50-75 bill!
Sorry for your loss.
How old are you?
@@HansZarkovPhD she wont let you hit bro
Thank you! I'm a 57-year old lady and I didn't know what to do. It worked. Thank you!
After waiting and waiting to have my hubby properly fix this... Thanks to your video, I got the job done successfully the first time! With the snow now here, we NEED an exterior door that closes and latches so that the wind doesn't blow it open. Thanks so much.
Get rid of the hubby if you can't fix things
This was an EXTREMELY helpful video that solved a year long battle with a utility room door that would not stay latched!!
As another honest carpenter since 1975, I have some suggestions for this common issue. Look at how the door is hanging in the jamb. If the bolt and strike plate hole are not aligning it is probably due to the jamb moving or the top hinge loosening and changing the alignment. The most common movement is for the door to lean at the top towards the lock side of the opening. Often just tightening the screws in the top hinge will get things into alignment . It can be good to remove one of the screws that is closest to the center of the jamb in the top hinge . Then drill its hole out with a 3/16 bit . Just drill through the jamb but not into the stud of the framing . Then use a 2 1/2 or 3 inch screw to screw into the stud and thus pull the top of the door towards the jamb . This will raise where the lock bolt hits the strike plate and often give a more permanent fix .
I have also bought carbide reaming attachments for my drill which allow me to remove metal from the bottom of the strike plate, lowering the hole so that the bolt can hit the hole . I do this without removing or lowering the whole strike plate . A faster process. Of course all this depends on how far the bolt and strike plate are out of alignment .
And as for lateral misalignment of bolt and strike plate , usually the bolt is not going into the hole due to the door warping. In that case the strike plate can be removed and the tongue cut or broken off to elongate the hole towards the outside and allow the bolt to go in . You can also remove the door stop if it is a non rabbeted jamb. Then latch the door and with it still latched reinstall the stop Against the door with a slight amount of play . Sometimes if just a little movement is required you can pry or tap the stop over slightly where needed to allow latching to occur .
Exactly!
Whew!
Lol this is a handful but informative thank you
Thanks for this, i was able to confirm this was my issue by pushing the door upwards when closing and it shitfting properly. Will have to work on this fix when I have time
Edit: Lmao… sorry, fat fingers
@@Lycius84 Indeed, shitting properly is *very* important.
I usually just rip the wall down and start over but this would work too
Lol
I tell the client we need to get a structural engineer involved but we can correct the problem
Classic 😂
😂
Hahaha...that was my first instinct, too, until I watched this video...LOL
Thanks Honest Carpenter! I’ve fixed three doors by watching your step by step guide. It makes me feel really good to handle tasks like this by myself. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
After watching this, I just fixed three strike plates in my home. Thank you! Now I don't have to wait 6 months for my husband to do it!
I always start with tightening up the hinges and making sure they're adjusted for even door fit. The screws that come with most hinge sets are always short and usually fail, especially in cheap doors. Take 1-3 of them out of each hinge one at a time and put in a 2"-3" #8 wood screw and now you're cooking with gas. Fixes 75% of latching issues
Thank you. Total newbie here, but looking at the door hinges seems like it would be the #1step in troubleshooting.
Good point. I always replace door hinge screws with beefier ones. It solves problems before they happen.
@@scottydog1313 hello, im assuming you're good at this kind of stuff, you're the most recent comment i found so i was hoping you can have some suggestions for a problem that i have? If its okay? Basically to put it short the wood where the strike plate would go kind of broke off, so i cant screw in any strike plate cause there isnt wood there causing the door to open and close so easily even when its locked, i dont even have to twist the knob to open, i can just pull it. So i was wondering what can i do to refill that "hole" in order to screw a strike plate again
@@freshsodaa7023 You basically need to cut a repair tenon, or block, to fit into the mortise you're going to make.
I'd cut the repair tenon out of wood a bit bigger than the damaged section. Make sure it's large enough to have some wood on all sides of the hole you'll need to drill for the door latch, and about 1/2 an inch longer than the location where the screws will need to go for the striker plate.
Do not make is so deep that it cuts through more than 1/2 way through the door frame if you can help it. You want to keep as much structural integrity as you can.
You can then use that repair tenon as a template to mark where you need to cut. If you're not familiar with using a hammer and chisel, watch a few YT videos, and practice on some scrap. If you're new to chisel work, always cut inside the lines with the bevel facing in towards the section you need to remove, when making cuts along
your edges.
Clean up the spot in the frame with a hammer and chisel where the wood was damaged. Make sure it's as flat and square as you can, but it doesn't need to be perfect
Then glue and screw the replacement tenon into the squared out hole. Make sure to align the wood grain vertically, to match the rest of the door frame.
Let the glue dry for the recommended time at the bare minimum. I usually wait 24 hours to be sure. Once it's good, clean it up with the chisel if need be.
You will need to drill a new hole for the door latch. Shut the door and mark where the latch hits to use as a guide. Drill the hole with the recommended sized spade bit.
Then you can reinstall the striker plate as normal.
Door hinge knuckle bender would take care the problem 10 times faster?
I had a strike plate that was off just a fraction of an inch. The file was the perfect solution. This door has been an issue since we bought our home 15 years ago. I didn’t want to cut the jamb. Thanks for the video. Glad I found your channel.
You're welcome, Dennis! It's crazy how often that tiny fix does the job. I'm glad it worked--thanks for watching!
@Hello Dennis how are you doing
Thank you for posting this! I’m getting tired of my cat barging in on me in the bathroom lol
Cats these days have no manners or consideration 😆
@@roachy69🤣
Oh my goodness!!! As a single female homeowner this made my day!! Option 2 worked like a charm. Thank you!!!
Thanks to your video, I finally had the determination to fix the door latch of my bathroom. Your methods did indeed work!
Sometimes driving a 3-4” screw into the top hinge to replace one of the screws will raise the door enough to fix it. Great video!
Yep exactly this is something to consider. Gotta look at all of the factors.
Yes the top hinge wears and the door can hang out. I always make sure the top hinge is fixed and not loose.
Tightened up many top hinges!
Use a knuckle wrench or a crescent wrench to bend the knuckles on the door hinge only. Tap pin out on top or bottom according to which one is closest to the jamb. Use a shim to space the door and adjust the knuckle to match the frame hinge.
Doesn't even need to be the hinge. Can just be the jamb. This video blames the plate when the issue might be the door sagging.
You just helped me fix a bedroom door that was misaligned.......thanks!
Good information, thanks for making this video!! 👍
I love these jobs cause 1)they’re easy 2)pay well 3)home owners are always so happy to have a non sticking latching working door. I’m amazed at how often. Doors are installed wrong. Especially pre-hung doors that take a lot of the guess work out. If you’re a trade carpenter I’d suggest hanging Jams and doing the hinges yourself. If you master that, fixing junk mdf jobs is a breeze because wood jams, trim, and doors can’t be fixed with caulk and paint
First tip worked great. Back dog door was blowing open because it wasn't latching. I have a home daycare and over time the kids yanking on the door caused it not to latch. I never comment but I agree with everyone on here- concise, informative, well made how to. Makes me want to tinker with other stuff, very rewarding.
Very nice video. Simple, to the point and no "extra" talking. Thank you very much.
Thank you, Florin!
Was a little project for a friend. The socket was at least 1/4" out of place and the door apparently never locked. I had to use the third trick, as the first two did not work much for my situation. Followed the instructions. Easy and clear. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the details. Very helpful.
Suggestions:
Check hinge screws: they loosen causing door to sag. Won’t need to mess with strike at all.
Hey Tony, this is a really good point! I often start that way, and I wish I’d included it in the video. Shooting footage on the job site is distracting and frantic sometimes 😅
Tony NYC
Removing one of the hinge screws from the top hinge and replacing it with a longer screw that will reach and bite into the cripple stud behind the jamb will also pull the door back to it's original position because the reason this happens is the door has begun to sag and the lock drops down resulting in not latching properly.
I've used that trick for years.
This is a great video and I've used every technique that was demonstrated. There is always more than one way to fix things.
Renegade Wa That’s also a really good point! Thank you for writing in! This can solve two problems at once: if the shorter hinge screws have stripped out, a longer one often precludes you having to fill those old screw holes and retap them. Just need a long screw with a head that fits in the hinge leaf countersink and doesn’t stand too proud 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter
Whenever I see this issue with a door usually the first thing I look at is the reveal at the top of the door. The lock side of the door often times will have a wider reveal than the hinge side and that tells me that the door has sagged a bit and a 3 inch screw that matches the hinge screws usually makes really quick work of it.
But as I said before I've used every fix that you demonstrated in this video and all of them have worked. Another "fix" is when you open a door and it slowly closes by itself.............simply pop out one of the hinge pins and tap it a couple of times with a hammer bending it slightly and when you pop it back into the hinge it stiffens the hinge enough to keep the ghost from closing it.
Keep up the great work...................guys like us need to teach the stiffs something every now and again..................lol!!
I have another quick fix that I do not use for my best work. If you try tightening the top hinge and that doesn't work, stick that screwdriver between the leave of the bottom hinge and carefully close the door on it. You are trying to bend the hinge leaf just a little so that the bottom of the door moves away from the hinge when it is closed. This is very crude, and a lot can go wrong, but this can work if you do it right. You can also put a piece of cardboard under the leaf to raise it. Again, not pretty, but quick. As a last resort, check the frame to see if the door needs to be rehung. Poor shimming is often the cause of the door sagging.
Thanks so much for this. I watched it a while ago just for fun, but after removing all my doors to paint them and replacing all the hinges, I have a few doors that no longer latch. I’ve watched this again to refresh my memory. I appreciate all your videos.
I know this was put up a year ago, but I just had to thank you. Our side door wouldn't lock and I was worried about having to drill new holes because my mom usually does stuff like that. I managed to glue the toothpicks in and drill new holes for the door to lock and I'm so happy it worked and I didn't screw it up. Thank you 💜
I typically don't watch these types of videos, but you earned my subscribe due to the amount of explaining you gave us. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
This man is out here doing gods work 😂 found this in the middle of the night but I’m gonna try these tomorrow!!
Thank you so much! I've lived in my new house for two years. I didn't realize that my bedroom door wasn't latching properly until I locked it last night and the door opened even though it was locked! Your first tip was what was needed and it worked!
Great tutorial. You have a fantastic style with thorough details & easy voice over. Thank you .
Thank you! I have lived in an apartment (family owned and they don't care if I modify things) for 8 years and had two doors that do not latch including the bathroom door which is uncomfortable especially for guests. I fixed both with this trick very easily took less than 10 mins to fix both doors. Thank you! Thank you! It's very rare in life that it's a simple fix.
Thanks. I did your last step to include the toothpicks. Just repaired this two-year-old nagging problem. Our silly Lab kept getting stuck behind the door. Now I can close the laundry room door and not worry about her getting stuck.
Hi Ethan! You are a super rockstar for sharing this. I had this exact issue in a brand new home. The issue popped up about a week after the one year warranty expired. The door latches worked fine all year prior.
I went a couple of nights without being able to secure my back door. I wasn’t quite sure how to find a vendor to do this repair As most door and window companies are only interested in sales and installation, not Repair.
Anyways I had to lower both my deadbolt and door knob strike plates and option three was required. In my case I used both a wood chisel and a Dremel to bore out the holes but I needed to understand how to put it all together and you’ve crafted an excellent instructive video here.
Thank you so much Ethan. I am eternally grateful!
Thank you so much for this. A combination of the filing, driving the wood down and tweaking the hinges fixed a troublesome bathroom door that was playing up for ages, even after I put on a new latch and handle.
I just watched this and ended up being able to fix my issue by just nudging down the strike plate. I cut away JUST a sliver of the bottom edge of the recession, and everything works perfectly, now. The video was very helpful--thank you!
A couple of quick things I noticed in this video. #1 the door hinges could have been spread to close the gap at the jam on the latch-side. #2 to fill the existing screw holes use a wooden golf tee with wood glue instead. That will fill the hole completely and allow for a better fit for new holes.
A golf tee....great idea. Thank you.
Golf tee is a great idea for filling a hole completely. Never thought of that. I always use toothpicks for things like cabinet door hinge holes that have come loose +wood glue to create more "bite" for the screws.
Worked great! After watching several videos that lacked detail or more than one option, this one covers everything. Thank you!
Thank you, the best tutorial video I ever view lately. Very detailed, step by step narrative, never overlooking the critical areas. A big yes!
Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching 😀
THANK YOU! I have had three doors in my house that have not latched properly or consistently in more than 20 years. I wanted to hire someone to fix it but no one seemed to be interested. All to the good! I had to fashion a shim block for one side of the routed cutout on one side and cut deeper into the other for two of them to shift the cutout position up or down by about half an inch, fashioned a dowel that perfectly fit the screw holes (drilling out the holes first) and put everything in place with Liquid Nails. Then I put the strike plate on after trimming out what was needed on the surface to fit it. For the third, the file trick was enough to get it working. THANK YOU!!!!!!!
After reviewing your problem solutions for a non- locking door situation I gave this additional thought. I had bought a new door lock set and the door latch bolt would not lock into the striker plate. I looked a bit more carefully and realized that the new bolt that I had installed had the bolt angle coming in at the opposite direction from what it should have been. My solution was simply to reverse the bolt by turning it upside down which then positioned the bolt angle to be consistent with when the angle of the bolt hit the striker plate. This fixed the problem and did not require any of the other solutions that you suggested.
@Sigkeeper1 Thanks for writing in! You're exactly right, the curved face of the latch should always point towards the strike plate. This way it will naturally be forced into the latching mechanism. It's an easy thing to overlook sometimes when you're installing new hardware :)
Lol
You did a perfect explanation! I am 70 year 0ld woman and you helped me solve my problem! Thank you so much!
Great tutorial video: clear, easy, intelligent and straight to the point and very detail oriented!Thanks bro!
@Logan You’re welcome! I really appreciate the positive feedback 🙂
Stumbled on your video, fixed my problem after 1 year of giving up on finding the issue. Awesome job.
Had a bathroom door not latching. My wife said...Go ask the Honest Carpenter...So I did. Thanx for an easy fix.
strike plate was out 1/4 inch on my 2 year olds room door, she easily pushes the door open at night now that she can climb out of her crib, moved the plate up and loved the tip using toothpicks to fill screw holes, used a little temp glue to hold the plate in place to make sure it latches before i screwed in, works perfect, thanks for the video man appreciate it.
It Actually works,i just fixed my door lock with step no 1.Thank you !!
Seriously, thank you for putting this video out. I've messed with this door for like 2 hours before I thought, "Why don't I search UA-cam for help?"
My problem was fixed within 2 minutes thanks to your video.
If the old holes keep messing up proper alignment with new holes, even after the toothpick filling, you can drill out 3/8" holes, then glue a 3/8" plug. This should provide a fresh wood area wide enough to mark and drill new holes without the hassle of bits wandering into old holes, or shifting from varying densities of fillers.
Where do I get a 3/8" plug? Sorry, I am fairly new to DIY.
Best video i've seen on this. Everyone else goes strait to the relocation which is often more than what is needed. Thanks
Loved this! Straight and to the point! Thank you! Excellent information. Fixed 2 doors!
Holy s***, this actually worked! I was afraid I’d be in over my head trying to fix the issue, but the video was very clear and concise. I did have to deepen the hole for the latch as well but not even that stopped me from being successful. TWO HUGE THUMBS UP!
Great advice. Now i have to do this with my front door.
Omg 😊 thank you! I was about to call in a handyman but decided to check UA-cam first. Your first suggestion worked! I can’t even believe I fixed this problem myself - well, with your help. THANK YOU!!!! 😀
Three good ideas. Another issue occasionally encountered with the strike plate is the 'tongue' of the strike plate, which extends into the mortise. If it is bent too little it can prevent the bolt from entering the mortise enough to securely latch. Remove the strike and bend it with a couple of Crescent wrenches, one to hold the strike and the other to bend the 'tongue' if placing a large screwdriver against the 'tongue' and hitting it with a hammer doesn't work. Several viewers mentioned loose hinges. Excellent point. If the screw holes no longer hold the screws securely they can be repaired with toothpicks, etc. The first thing I check is the door reveal. Occasionally hinges become sprung. A door doesn't have to sag much for a lock to not latch. If the reveal at the bottom edge of the door is too large place a small piece of hardwood dowel, 1/4" or 3/8", as close to the knuckles as possible and gently close the door on it a few times. This will push the edge of the door towards the strike jamb and raise the height of the bolt. If the top of the reveal is too close to the strike jamb, remove the hinge pin and use an open end wrench, just large enough to slip over the hinge knuckles, to bend each knuckles slightly away from the door. This will pull the door slightly away from the strike jamb and raise the height of the bolt. This can also fix a sagging door that a customer thinks needs to be planed down because it is rubbing against the strike jamb. If the hinges are heavy duty you may have to remove them and place them in a vise. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you
Just used fix #3 and it worked perfectly! Wife is happy and it made me feel like I could accomplish a household fix. Thanks so much!
Sometimes shimming the door works as well... especially if the door is sagging or not squarely hung in the frame to begin with, either due to worn-out hinges, or because the door frame assembly isn't square to begin with.
I was having this issue and I tried the first thing thinking no way it would work. It did. Thank you!
Nice video. I always have extra strike plates in my tool box when anyone of my tenants move out. I buy new locks to install n I keep the old strike plates if they are in good shape and some of them are thicker than others beside recycling is a good thing.
@Frank Fakir Thank you! Good call on the extra strike plates. I used to have stashes of most types of interior hardware in my old shop, and also my van. You just never know when I might become useful 🙂
"I buy new locks to install" Lowes will rekey locks, for cheaper than replacing.
Just chiming in to say you saved me a lot of guesswork and hassle with this excellent video. Got a chisel and cleaned out the hollow of the strike plate and whacked it back into alignment. Many thanks for sharing your expertise!
When I have had to do the third fix, I use dowels instead of toothpicks. Works better. I have a homemade dowel plate and can make 1/8” dowels to fill the screw holes. Works great.
Ikea furniture is great resource for wood dowels. most build it yourself DYI furniture has them, I liberate the dowels when I finally throw out the flimsy Ikea crap
I lived in a very Soddy trailer years ago and every door in that house had a latching problem. Through trial and error I eventually figured out exactly the three methods that you’ve shown. To cut out the wood for the door jam I just used my screwdriver as a chisel. Makes me feel good knowing I wasn’t crazy.
Best dang tutorial I’ve seen. Thank you, Sir!
Thank you. Had to go all the to step three to get my door to latch but your instructions are awesome.
The toothpick is a great idea, I always drilled the hole out to 1/32 or so smaller than a dowel then glued and hammered the dowel in the holes.
I like to use 1/4" drill and matching dowel, with wood glue or even Elmers. It's a tight fit and dries firmly in seconds. The old threaded wood was weak; the new solid fill is great, even when the new hole is close to the old.
My grandparents spent 3 hours trying to fix this before I woke up. I googled it, found your video, fixed it in 20 mins flat ahaha-- thank you for explaining so well, it was a very easy fix with your help! :)
Wooden golf tee in old screw holes. Glue, hammer in, let dry, cut off excess.
Ok that's awesome. Stealing it. Thanks.
Wooden matches also work very well for those of us who don't have golf equipment lying around.
Thank you for your video
As a single mom I have to do all the handyman job is great to have videos like these to help us in life when we need help. I use option 2 to fix my daughter's door 🚪 it would stay close it keeps opening it self, now it won't open by itself again. Thank you for your tips.
Thank you for this video. I had to do the last option but I was finally able to fix two doors that were bothering me and my wife since we moved into our house.
Hey Eric, that’s great! You’re welcome, thanks for watching 🙂
THANK YOU!!! Filing it down by about 1/8" did the trick perfectly! I also removed about 1/8" of wood from the inside to make room with a utility knife. Now it shuts and latches absolutely perfectly! This door has been flying open with the wind for about two years now when not locked and it's super annoying. The guy who installed it was supposed to come fix it but never showed up. It's a dutch door and I checked the hinges to make sure before doing this. Now we can rest easy knowing the wind isn't going to throw the door open while we enjoy the backyard. Thank you for this great video!
I like to use golf tees for filling in the old screw holes
Golf tees work awesome as does bbq skewers and dowels. The dollar store has a great selection of skewers, dowels, popsicle sticks etc. For a few bucks you can keep a nice selection of ready to go plugs for your kit.
Ed Over50 I do the same but have forgotten the dollar store is a great cheap resource, thanks for a reminder.
I use wooden matchsticks from "strike anywhere" matches. I just clip off the head, coat them with glue, and tap them in with a hammer. Then I use a sharp chisel to trim them flush.
mnm1067 - that's so brilliant! I often use toothpicks for golf tees.......
@@JohnnyTalia Wont using match sticks void your fire insurance policy ?
I love the first try. Was actually very hyped up by it and said out loud: "thanks guy!!!" It didn't work bc the old hole was way too high but it earned you a new Subscriber and a like. Thanks, again, guy!!
I find golf tees work the best at filling old hole.
I like that idea. We used chopsticks from Panda Express and wood glue. Hammered it in and break it off.
I use em too, Get mine @ Walmart in the sporting goods section.
David Ungerecht mmmmjm Jimmu
chop sticks and cabob sticks work good too
Second. Fixed two doors in my house with them work way better than toothpicks
Thank you! Because of your vid I was able to fix my door that wont lutch.
@Random Videos Good to hear! I'm glad it helped :)
Your entertainment skills have improved drastically in just two years. Way to go!
You can also drive a 3" screw into the top hinge center screw. It will catch the framing and pull the door up. Use an impact driver, being careful to not overtighten and break the screw head or split the jam. This process will pull the door up slightly providing enough upward hang to allow the door to shut. This however, may cause the door to swing open or shut depending on the door swing.
For the bathroom, it always swings to open. 😍
So longer screws in the top pull the door up? What about in the other hinges
Your advice of using pliers and a hammer to fix the strike plate was genius. Video was straight to the point, has timetags and extremely helpful. Thanks.
Thank you for posting this my bedroom door was driving me crazy
Thanks for providing this video. Had this problem and followed the video and the door now latches perfectly.
I've spent time using the same procedure at my daughters house in South Carolina, so I sent her this video. Now every time she opens a door, she'll think of Dad.
5
OMG! Toothpicks. That is how I have filled holes for half a century or more. Now I feel like a PRO.
Sometimes the strike plate and latch are in the right places of the door and jam, but over time the door has shifted in alignment (tilting down). To fix it you can bend the hinge loops inward (on the door side) and it will move the top of the door enough that the latch and strike plate are now back in alignment.
Done that works great
I worked on my in-laws door a few weeks ago and tried that but their hinges were too beefy to bend easily w/o leaving obvious tool marks so I switched to unscrewing the bottom hinge (frame side) and using pieces of wood shims to shim it out a touch and now works every time.
Great video! Just fixed a front door thanks to this. Fix #2 for the deadbolt, Fix #3 for the door latch.
first check the hinge side, top hinge screws loose will allow the door to drop. Shim bottom hinge with thin, cereal box, cardboard to shift the latch side up.
All good suggestions David. The three repairs I’ve shown are for significant hinge side sagging (and if you don’t want to try rehanging the door). These small hinge side tweaks can help tremendously though. Thanks!
Don't use cardboard for this. It will continue to compress over time and you will be back fixing this problem again in a month or even less.Use a thin piece of metal, like a strip cut from coke can.
@@MAGAMAN Or coins.
Thanks for this video! My balcony door deadbolt is a mess and I now feel like I have the troubleshooting steps to try and fix it. Your videos are fantastic!
Watched this video and had my bathroom door fixed in ten minutes.
My door jam was split by my son (long story). I had no idea how to fix it - this has me in the right ball park! It latches if I pull the plate down & towards me. So I'm going to try to glue it w clamps to pull the wood back together..then deal with the latchplate. Thank you so much!!! (5 years of unable to lock door!)
I feel that you did this fix mostly on the wrong side of the door. I would have asked myself first why has the door dropped? As already mentioned by someone else worn hinges. If that were the case then either replace the hinges or a temporary fix is to pack out under the lower hinge. Another fix would be to bend either half of the bottom hinge out or the top hinge in. This is done with the hinge pin removed. If the door frame has moved because of house movement then what you did would work.
I used to fill screw holes like you do however these days I find that a better solution is to drill the old hole out and glue in a dowel, trim with a multi tool & then drill fresh holes.
Cheers
Thanks John! You’re right, much of the repair can start on the hinge side. I’ve definitely had success shimming out the lower hinge. The only time it’s been a problem is when the door clearance is already tight on the latch side and moving it out makes it tighter. But the other things you mentioned I haven’t tried before. I’ll give them a shot!
@Hello John how are you doing
Thank you so much! I was fiddling with this door forever. Method #1 worked for me!
You might want to inform your viewers to check to see if the door itself is secure at the hinge. Bathroom doors are usually hollow core and the hinge screws are real short. Making the door level usually helps aligning the the lock to the strike plate.
I did, for the most part, step by step of your instructions and door latches perfectly! Thank you so much for the easy to follow tutorial. I like that idea of using tooth picks to fill the holes.👍🏼
Put baking soda on the toothpicks. Fill the strike plate jamb holes with super glue. Sprinkle more baking soda onto toothpicks as you insert them. The soda activates the super glue within seconds. No ten minute wait.
I’ve never heard that trick before dd! Thanks for sharing! 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter Luthiers use it on guitars to fill in the nut where the strings have worn the slots down. Now the slots can be filed to the appropriate height. I've never seen a carpenter with a box of arm n hammer in their tool pouch?!
Spiccoli Rocks I can borrow from the homeowner! 😂 Thanks for the luthier tip. Do you make/fix guitars? I’m going to start doing tip/trick collabs with other tradespeople on my website. I’d love to do a quick article on something like this, if you’d ever want to reach out to me there
www.thehonestcarpenter.com
Yes i do work on guitars...
That would be cool!
Spiccoli Rocks Awesome! Drop me a line whenever you get a chance!
I did it! Mine was hitting too high so I moved strikeplate up a smidge and voila!! I did have to chisel a bit of wood but it was easy and the door closes tight now! Thank you for your clear simple instructions! 🙏☺️
excelent video and well explained.
CT2507 Thanks so much! 🙂
best instructions I've viewed, clear and to the point - thank you!
Put some longer screws on the hinges and possibly angle them to the side so you can catch the 2x4
drew forTwenty that’s hack work. You shouldn’t be angling the screw. There’s better ways to do it.
Great video with helpful tips and step by step instruction, well done. Filing down the strike plate took care of my problem, thanks!
This issue almost always results from the hinge side. Doors hang off of hinges and sag over time. To see this, close the door and note the difference in the gap between the door and frame at the top versus the bottom. There are then several ways to either reset the hinges or replace a hinge...
Ron Fastov Thanks for writing in! You’re right, hinge side changes can solve so many problems so long as you have adequate space around the door slab. I wish I’d brought it up in this video, but was filming with clients walking around the house. Before too long I’m going to do another video about door movement, and assessing exactly WHAT is happening with the slab/casings before repairs are even attempted
Your first tip solved my problem. Thanks. Videos like this are my favorite thing about UA-cam.
The 'reason' the strike plate 'appears' to be too high, is because the HINGES are wore out.
Replacing the hinges will raise the entire door back into its original possition.
Your welcome...
@TheSirRip I definitely see plenty of worn-out hinges, but these were still too new to need replacement yet. Don't you feel that latch-side settling can also be a common issue? In this case, I think a slightly overspanned beam in a remodel below this door was the cause. I hardly ever see a doorway that doesn't experience at least a small amount of settling at some point, and in some cases its on the hinge-side, which causes the reverse problem, not to mention possible door dragging
"you are "
Absolutely, if hinge screws are tight then hing is probably worn out.
In my house (1944 pier and beam) the house rises with rain and falls with drought.
Excellent! Never tried the first two methods. For the 3rd, I’ve used wooden golf tees. They work great. Thx for the video.
Wood glue or even Elmer's school glue works well for a task like this.
Duck tape works well too. 😎👍
What a great idea that you have for filling the old screw holes with tooth picks. I've successfully moved two strike plates on the same door using your third method and it was much easier than I thought. Thank you so much.