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I have been a diy guy from when my dad ( now passed ) had me hold the flashlight for him . Love doing all sorts of projects and helping others with theirs. The Lord commands us to help widows and orphans. No greater joy is there than to finish a job and stand back and see your work done well leaving things better than you found them ... thanks for all your helpful videos and direction as a former school science teacher I would pass on “ how to’s “ with the student body at school... they called it life lessons, I again thank you for yours....Ames
I have seen a few of your rot repair videos and one comment I would like to make, as a fellow carpenter with over 35 years in the trade, is that once you have the rotten material removed, I recommend you treat the exposed areas with an appropriate chemical to kill any remaining termites or rot fungus that might not be apparent before you make the actual repair. It will give you and your client more peace of mind and make your repairs last longer.
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with
Yes! Thank you for adding that..My heart sank at that sight since I have many problems with …moisture, wood decay, carpenter ants, and termites. Also those holes make lovely homes for mice and More .1
I watched your video twice. (Watch twice, repair once). I would not have really known all your hints and techniques, and the repair on one side of the door was done in half an hour. I'm really happy to have moved up a notch on the handyman scale. Thanx!!
EXACTLY the problem around my back door at the garage - 32 years of sun and rain - brick mold and frame rotted so badly at the bottom, a mouse and a rat might have walked through together. THANKS SO MUCH for the great instruction!!! Got the oscillating multi-tool and PVC brick molding and 1x4, even though my problem was worse than what you showed, the solution was the same. I had 4 carpenters come and tell me to replace the door. The door is fine, it's the trim that needed replacing. None of them called me back, that's when I found your video. So glad I took your excellent advice!! $ 59 for the oscillating tool and $ 25 for the PVC trim, bless you!!!!
You make good informative video's. 71 year young carpenter here. I always found dry rot to be like a ice berg. You only see about 10% of it. The chop saw, pneumatic nailers and multi tool were game changers.
If I understand correctly, it’s nice to replace some dry rot rim joist but not always necessary to get 100% of it out if it’s not structural problem. It’s tempting to go overboard with it but in my case, I think it’s OK to leave some dry rotin a few spots now that I’m going to add the proper building, paper and flashing. This was missing from my deck!
I just caught a few of your repair videos and it’s refreshing to see someone as yourself actually knowing what their talking about and doing it correctly. I’ve been a restoration contractor for over 40 years now and I certainly would recommend you to anyone watching this video regardless of some ridicules comments! I appreciate good honest information and a job “well done “ as you’ve demonstrated here!!
This man is showing a budget friendly solution. He's solving water creep on 2 doors with a budget of one side of one door. The J channel is the issue. Thanks poster!
Thanks for this. You just saved me $$ and turned me on too a really cool multi tool. It's awesome. It took me only about 30 min to do this repair. I had a handy man tell me it was easier and cheaper to just replace the whole door with would have been over $600. This cost me $190 including buying a really nice DeWalt Multi Tool. Thank you.
To Anthony Osborne I thought it'd be a fairly easy couple of hours DIY for me to remove a 12 in section of the bottom left side of door frame, or jamb part. A few inches had rotted, the side that borders a raised flower garden... Too much over spraying the plants over the years is the culprit. Anyhow, I'm on day 2 lol. I put in a good 2 or 3 hours yesterday, priming the replacement wood section, gently and gingerly and slowly taking out the rotted section. My hands and wrists have gotten too weak over the years, I'm very small ones, barely weigh 90 lbs, so I get way too sore to keep praying, cutting, etc.. the rotten part out then carefully cleaning out the particles and built up calk behind that scary looking area void that is now exposed. I used work gloves and long reaching hand tools to remove the known and unknown debris, silly me, I'm too afraid of running into spiders or other creepy bugs. So far I haven't, lol. I was bound and determined to do this DIY all by myself... Well after talking too long to cut a simple 12"x3" door frame piece with a handsaw, I had my husband finish cutting that piece. Toy chargrin, a few seconds is all it took for him to cut that piece. Yep, no doubt he could have done this job in a fraction of time that it's taking me. Luckily I live in the SoCal area where our days are still quite warm out with no rain in sight. I learn a lot from these very informative videos and also glean a lot from the comments! Have a wonderful weekend everyone. 😃👋✌️
Thanks for the info. I have a door jamb with dry rot, and this will help me to do my own repairs. My husband rolled his eyes when I said that I could save us a repair job on the rental. Oh ye of little faith. :) Wish me luck!
@Debbie Perkins Thank you for watching! Good luck with the repairs! I think you’ve got this 💪🔨 Be safe, and feel free to reach out to me at the website if you need any more advice
Great video. One tip I think to mention as I just returned from finishing neighbors' attempt at replacing is to tape back the blub weather seal on the inside of the door towards the garage whenever cutting the side jamb out actually on any project. In nearly every project I've been called to come and "fix it", the weather seal is ripped or cut leaving an opening, especially on the entry points into their homes. Once the seal is out or needs to be replaced, it can be very difficult. Keep up the good work, Rob
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot. Great videos
Great job on a very common repair! two small tips, follow your pencil line with a razor knife scribe which will leave a sharp cut edge to follow with the multi tool. Also, when removing the piece, in an effort to eliminate pry marks against the remaining wood trim members, run two drywall screws high and low and use your claw hammer to pry the piece straight off and away. These two things are especially useful when working on highly visible trim repairs. Thanks for all your great work. Your obviously very squared away and doing great work!!
I’ve done this repair a lot. Almost the exact same way but I find it easier to cut the new PVC brick mold first, place it parallel to the rotted molding, and use the top of the replacement price to guide the oscillating saw blade. Remove the old rotted piece and the new piece slides right in. Perfect fit every time and it’s a nice time saver.
A second plunge cut an inch or two below the top cut helps with the splintering problem. The top cut needs to be nice and square so it looks good when the repair is done. The lower cut doesn't need to be precise since it is only to help avoid splintering into the remaining trim when you pry out the bad part.
I love how you explain thoroughly, with enough detail and sidenotes to set us up to actually succeed. And at the same time you keep it quick and basic enough to keep the video moving along and hold my interest. Good stuff! 😁
Priming and painting the wood used for the door jam, particularly on the bottom where the fibers are open would keep future rot out. Same goes for exterior doors; always paint the bottom before installing.
As a homeowner who has let a handful of repairs stack up, I've watched more than a few of your videos. You seem like a really nice guy who's patient and good at everything. You should be an instructor somewhere.
I have this brick mould repair coming up when it gets warmer... I picked up the plunge saw just for this repair. Always need a reason to pickup a new tool.
Ethan's videos are so good I'm always tempted to click "Like" within the first few seconds before he actually explains anything, because I just know what's coming is gonna be awesome.
I had a similar situation on my garage door, but just trimmed off the rotted wood and sealed it on the new end. May revisit this repair and my door on the side of my garage that has the same damage. Great video and thanks for making it appear simple enough for me to tackle. I’ll post before and after picks.
Great informative video, especially for homeowners that are scared to do repair work! You explained everything and the reasoning behind it! Not sure why the PROFESSIONAL carpenters are watching this and giving input 🤦🏻♂️! This is for rookie carpenters wanting great info, thank you for your videos!
@Craig Bynog Thanks Craig :) You're exactly right--I was trying to show a low cost, relatively simple repair that a motivated beginner could probably tackle on their own. I know there are even more thorough approaches, clear up to replacing the whole pre-hung door. But this one probably has a total cost of about $12 overall. And, provided you have a multi-tool and a way to cut new cellular PVC, can really be carried out in about an hour or less. (I usually make the multi-tool cut and removal in a couple minutes). Thank you again for watching. I really appreciate your support!
Thank you so much for sharing your excellent informative DIY projects. Your videos are very detailed and the visuals are excellent as well. Not blurry, unfocused, shaky, etc... I'm very happy that I found your Channel, I'm definitely going to watch many more of your videos. I sure appreciate your sharing your expertise and wonderful skills that really helps a new like myself, especially after these skyrocketing prices for materials, doesn't leave enough funds for hiring a pro any more. Thank you so much. Have a wonderful weekend. A SoCal gal fan. 😃👋✌️
Nice job. I fill any gaps or spaces with foam filler before I set in the new brick mold and or trim. I found this helped reduce moisture build up inside. Also keeps ants from moving in as well.
Just replace all the brickmold with PVC. Home Depot sells pre cut kits for just over $30. You may have to cut to fit your exact door, but would be easier than making those plunge cuts and risk a poor cut. Then you don't have to worry about any other parts rotting out and it will all match each other. The PVC kit is also paintable to your desired color.
@Richard Starr If you have a miter saw, it's really not hard if you have a little skill working with wood. I did it in half an hour, and I'm just a shade tree carpenter. 😆
While I think this was a good video to show how you did the repair, I would suggest all who think about doing this there is a better, faster and easier way of doing this repair. Remove all 3 sides of brickmold. Buy a PVC brickmold kit which already has the miter cuts done. You will have to square cut to length and one miter for the top.( you can choose to reuse your top mitered piece if you dont want to miter) if you dont have a miter saw use a square and cut angle from the backside of the piece. The kit is about 25 dollars from home depot. This is a forever fix with no wood to PVC seams to fill, sand and make look like there's no seam. You dont even have to paint it if you dont want unlike wood brickmold which is only primed. It will take less time to replace all with PVC than to cut out section and repair. Besides its a much more professional and solid fix. I charge 95 dollars a door to do these and it takes about 15 minutes. Anyone can do this with 30 dollars and 30 minutes and no osscilator tool needed( unless you need a reason to go buy a new tool)
This was a great help. The PVC board will help with my similar problem. Do you have a video on repairing rusted out metal door? At this same door the bottom of the door has rusted out. Hoping it can be salvaged. Thanks
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
Thank you so much for the video! I thought it was possible to fix my door jamb and not have to replace the whole thing, even though my husband didn’t think so! Appreciate it very much!
Run a bead of caulk on both sides from the bottom of the mold to the plate. This is why most start to rot out in the first place. I do this with all door installs!
I'm going to have to do this on my front garage trim as the full south sun has caused it to dry out & come apart, I will replace the whole piece of trim, Yes I will be doing this my self, after I pick up some tools.
Honest Carpenter, I will be making a similar repair for a customer and would like to know if you would recommend just replacing the bottom portion of the brick molding like you did in this video or just replacing the entire brick molding? I am thinking that it would be easier to just replace all of the brick molding in order to avoid using a multi-tool to make several special cuts.
use the rolls of two part epoxy (they come in a little tube and look like a swiss roll) to fill the gaps at the cut points. You can sand it down before you paint the repair is invisible.
Nice channel mate! I’m from the UK and do property maintenance for a living. Really find it interesting how you do things on the other side of the pond as it were. Similar methods of repairs but on totally different styles of buildings. Would love to job swap in the USA for a month to broaden my experience as it were! Keep the good videos coming. Marc.
Marc Gray Thank you, I really appreciate you watching! I lived in Glasgow for a while when I was in my twenties. Thinking back on that time, I always wish I’d gotten to work some construction over there 😁 carpentry is one of those things: universal, and yet slightly different everywhere you go. Maybe someday I’ll get to come back that way for some work or videos!
Ah Glasgow Scotland... only been there once myself! I’m from the midlands in England which is a fair few hours drive from Glasgow 😂 like 8 !! I think the UK needs more tradesmen and women to be fair.... ones that are good at their trades and can be of help. There are still unfortunately too many people that aren’t that claim they are and take advantage!
Excellent tutorial. I like your organization - intro, body, & conclusion. I like the many details you describe with much specificity. You've inspired me to repair my garage service door right now - if it only weren't 20 degrees F. outside here in the Midwest! Oh well, one more thing to do this coming spring.
This video was perfect - I have to replace several pieces of baseboard moulding due to condensation/water damage from a series of interior floor-to-ceiling window frames, and I'll be using these techniques. Total newb here, but I'm confident I'll manage! The oscillating power tool looks like what I need.
@@hairbarber-ology yep. Holding really well. Just checked it. Super solid. I will definitely be using it again on wood rot. Best part about it is it's very easy to work with. The area I patched though was about 5 inches high and the entire width of the board
I tend to cut the old material upward at an angle and the new piece at the exact opposite angle then slide the new piece up under the exiisting wood. It makes for a smoothe transition if you cut it right
Great tutorial on how to repair wood rot. Your explanations help to make the DIYer more confident in trying out this repair. Do you have a tutorial on how to repair a rotted door threshold? As in your videos, the threshold on my exterior door is made from a combination of an aluminum plate and wood underneath that supports the adjustable threshold. All the wooden components have rotted, but it is impossible to replace it and the aluminum plate (I have a patio style door with one fixed side and this aluminum plate extends underneath the immovable side as one solid piece). To replace this threshold would seem to me to require removing this whole patio doorway. Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.
I did similar replacement to 4 doors recently. One addition, a buddy/builder suggested-use Great Stuff foam or similar under threshold (if you have access). Makes it feel and sound solid and adds to air sealing.
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I needed. I am a beginner carpenter/handy daughter trying to fill in for dad who passed away, I need to be able to fix more around the house. We had a local guy install another door frame and door because door had other issues. However, inside the building which was a garage there is open space between the garage and the door jamb. what can I put into this empty space? I might need to send a picture.
Very helpful video. However I couldn't tell if the profiles of the old and the new brick molding matched. What do you do if you can't match the profiles? Thanks!
I have the type of brick mold shown on your video ' fix rotted door frame (Brick mold). I want to install storm doors, but several 'local' contractors(?) have told me it's impossible without removing the existing brick mold and replacing it with a new type. I also have vinyl siding with 'J' trim surround. I think I'm being 'zoomed'. Could you please advise? Your video is excellent. Thanks.
Great video. I have a 50 year old Peachtree wooden 8 foot sliding patio door that works perfectly. It has clear glass, slides great, screen works well, etc. However, the bottom wood is rotting. How can I replace the wood without replacing the entire door? Do you have a video tutorial on how to replace the rotted wood on a sliding patio door?
My question is just how expensive is the new brick molding? It seems to me that it the cost is not prohibitive then why not just replace the entire section with PVC? PVC would never rot period and the labour costs would be minimal.
Looks like you had treated 2x material for the jambsn which unfortunately may require a full season to dry before priming and painting? Curious why you didnt use pvc or regular lumber with bondo/epoxy coat for quicker painting instead?
This is good repair for an EMP inspection fix if you're selling a house, but if your staying any length of time replace the ENTIRE brickmould. It's just as easy and it will look better.
The oscillating tool is an excellent tool but blades can be expensive. You can buy a small disc adapter to allow you to use almost any blade with your tool. Mine is a worx machine and I think I bought the small metal adapter from them.
I used to burn out blades like nobody's business ($$$) but learned to sharpen it except for the Japanese style aggressive teeth. Since then I converted to carbide blades, expensive at first but save $$ in the long run. Not as fast or accurate as the Japanese style but lasted almost forever and cut through imbedded nails or ever screws.
Good video and some good tips. From and older carpenter to a younger carpenter.... use your eye and ear protection. At some point you think man I should of used my eye and ear protection. Why tempt fate? Good luck and keep up the good work.
Hi. What did you do to the bottom of the PVC piece you put in? It looks like it’s jagged. If that was for installing I wish you would have shown that part as well.
I've got a Ryobi 18v multitool and I was wondering how much a difference a corded one would make. I'm guessing the corded tool would have a lot more power and create quicker cuts - Hate to add another tool if it's really just a matter of time saved, and since I'm really just using it for my own home repair and DYI projects.
I have a Makita cordless and Fein corded. The Fein is definitely more powerful but I use the Makita more often for smaller jobs as it's much more convenient. It's good to have both but I wouldn't go our and buy a corded tool unless you have a specific big job on the horizon.
It happens usually when doors installed and not painted. I found it is faster and look better to replace all three pieces of the brickmold. PVC is preferred but if a storm door will be installed then wood is stronger, especially where there're strong winds.
This is the type of answer that irritates me,it all comes down to cost!a lot of home owners don’t have spare cash so you do what they can afford,simple
@@Lifes-a-Commute I agree. His answer was stupid. I've been in the trades for almost two decades now and I know this kid is not a hack. I still would've used pvc for the jamb too though. The cost difference for such a small piece is pretty insignificant. I guess I could see it if maybe he just had some PT laying around from another job, or maybe the thicknesses were different? Idk.
Great job! Wouldn't it have been a better idea to replace all of the brick mold since your patch is PVC, this would eliminate having to paint, or at the very least, eliminate the patch line?
thank you for the info I have some doors to repair /frames and brick mold that someone just covered with siding to hide it. I know I will have to jack up and repair floor and sill thanks again Roy
One thing that's totally glossed over in this video is on the door side of the jamb, he doesn't mention anything about weatherstripping. Most doors similar to that one have the weatherstripping let into a saw kerf on the jamb. This is easy to replicate but does require table saw or special router bits.
How do you know how far back the rot actually goes? And how can you tell if the rot is part of the foundation? We’re working on replacing some dilapidated brick steps on our house, (125 year Old farmhouse) and there is wood rot all under the brick and around the door frame. I’m concerned that the foundation is compromised, but I’ve no way of knowing without digging it all out, and possibly causing a bigger problem. Any ideas?
I repaired mine with bondo. Made a female jig to shape it. Took 3 applications then sanded. Took longer to make the jig than to do the repair. No more wood there to rot.
Keep the wood from contacting the cement or what ever the surface material is ramp silicone or water and uv protected construction adhesive around the edge to repel water. Can use epoxy or fiberglass resin to cover the bottom few inches all the way around the new wood before installing it
I've watched a number of your informative videos, including your ad for your consulting services. I have a very rotted door frame that I would like to discuss but I don't see contact information on your website for your consulting services. Please advise. Thank you, S.
Great vidoe thanks. If you were going to fill in a gap in the bottom of the jamb/molding, would you just cut a piece of wood or PVC to fit? I don't have a rot problem, but I have a gap (there are 2 doors) where the door moldings or brickmold or whatever it's called comes down to the concrete. Not sure why they left the gaps there, but from inside, you can clearly see light coming through, meaning air and possibly mice etc. I'd like to seal those up. Many thanks if you can offer any tips.
Hey Al, in many cases, especially around garage doors, builders will leave the gap to prevent the trim from coming in contact with masonry or concrete, which always has a high moisture content. This can often be caulked, but if the gap is huge, I'd say yes, you could cut a piece of pvc a little short, and basically adhere it in with caulk on both the top and bottom
I have the opposite problem. I’m in an apartment (townhouse type) and they have the brick mold sitting right on the concrete outside the back door, which faces the south-west and gets lots of driving rain. Well, that wood trim just soaks up the water like a sponge. Ironically, the outside doesn’t look very damaged (the paint is coming loose) , but the inside door trim and baseboard (& likely the drywall) is soaking wet. It has turned brown and the paint is all wrinkled and loose. I contacted maintenance, before, and they just caulked around the edges. Now they want to install a storm door. I don’t think it’s going to solve the problem. I had a dehumidifier running next to it for months, and instead of drying it out, all I’ve managed to do is get my dehumidifier contaminated with mold and now the mold is throughout the whole place! It’s burning my throat and has infected my HVAC Unit. All from these two little wet corners of the door trim. I’m sure it’s into the drywall now. Since we’re still in the middle of Covid I’m thinking of tackling this myself. I shouldn’t have to but this can’t go on. I’m planning to cut out the interior damaged trim and see how bad the problem is inside the walls. If it’s not too bad, I’m planning to undercut the exterior brick mold by about a quarter inch, let it dry out and then fill it with caulk, to seal it and keep it from absorbing the water. Does this sound like a reasonable approach? Is a quarter inch enough to stop the wicking? There is no porch roof nor anything to protect it from the rain or snow.
Don't spend a dollar to save a dime, as in time is expensive, material is cheap.. The use of PVC brick molding is an excellent choice for wet NW locations.
They need an awning to keep the rain away from the door. I don't know why people stopped doing awnings. There is a reason they were popular and I don't get why they went out of fashion. Suggesting a good, long term fix of keeping the water away from the wall is not dishonest. Gutters are also important. Divert the water away because sealants will eventually fail, always.
Oh God thank you so much for this video! I’m having this exact problem right now and I happened upon your video and the first one that actually explains to me what I’m supposed to be doing. Thank you thank you thank you
Never used the PVC brick mold before, or even knew it existed to be honest. Do you find it easier to shoot brads through than the pine or more difficult? Just curious
I always caulk the backsides and where it meets the J-channel to the point where no moisture or insects can find a void. I do the same for kick plates with single step up doorways.
Great helpful video, as usual, thanks! One quick thing: at the 6:45 mark you mention if this was a window you'd need to put a 15* mitre on the replacement piece. Do you have a video where you explain that in more detail? I think I know what you mean, but...
Window sills are on an angle to allow water to run off when you cut a new piece of moulding you need to put the angle on back to front so it matches the sill angle
Great video, have you thought about using pvc to replace the jamb bottoms as well? Why did you chose to replace only the bottom 16” of brick mould instead of replacing the entire thing?
EXCELLENT VIDEO - THANKS!!! Just one question: Why didn't you use PVC for the door jamb repair? You did for the brick mold but not the jamb. Seems like it is set for more rot in the future. Thanks again for an awesome video.
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Are you sure you’re using your power tools safely? Avoid the most common (and dangerous) mistakes! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/10PowerToolMistakes
I have been a diy guy from when my dad ( now passed ) had me hold the flashlight for him . Love doing all sorts of projects and helping others with theirs. The Lord commands us to help widows and orphans. No greater joy is there than to finish a job and stand back and see your work done well leaving things better than you found them ... thanks for all your helpful videos and direction as a former school science teacher I would pass on “ how to’s “ with the student body at school... they called it life lessons, I again thank you for yours....Ames
I have seen a few of your rot repair videos and one comment I would like to make, as a fellow carpenter with over 35 years in the trade, is that once you have the rotten material removed, I recommend you treat the exposed areas with an appropriate chemical to kill any remaining termites or rot fungus that might not be apparent before you make the actual repair. It will give you and your client more peace of mind and make your repairs last longer.
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with
Yes! Thank you for adding that..My heart sank at that sight since I have many problems with …moisture, wood decay, carpenter ants, and termites. Also those holes make lovely homes for mice and More .1
Steve sherrill what chemicals are you referring to my fellow carpenter???
You must have missed the part when he explained his reasoning and plan to adding sealants, etc.
Hello Stephen, just wondering if you do the work in 29650 area! Thanks!
I watched your video twice. (Watch twice, repair once). I would not have really known all your hints and techniques, and the repair on one side of the door was done in half an hour. I'm really happy to have moved up a notch on the handyman scale. Thanx!!
That’s great, Jim! Thanks for watching! 😄
EXACTLY the problem around my back door at the garage - 32 years of sun and rain - brick mold and frame rotted so badly at the bottom, a mouse and a rat might have walked through together. THANKS SO MUCH for the great instruction!!! Got the oscillating multi-tool and PVC brick molding and 1x4, even though my problem was worse than what you showed, the solution was the same. I had 4 carpenters come and tell me to replace the door. The door is fine, it's the trim that needed replacing. None of them called me back, that's when I found your video. So glad I took your excellent advice!! $ 59 for the oscillating tool and $ 25 for the PVC trim, bless you!!!!
And now?
@@kueichenglee7583 holding well, thank you!
You make good informative video's. 71 year young carpenter here. I always found dry rot to be like a ice berg. You only see about 10% of it. The chop saw, pneumatic nailers and multi tool were game changers.
Yes, hooray for all those. I'd also like to put in a good word for lithium ion battery tools. 🙂
If I understand correctly, it’s nice to replace some dry rot rim joist but not always necessary to get 100% of it out if it’s not structural problem. It’s tempting to go overboard with it but in my case, I think it’s OK to leave some dry rotin a few spots now that I’m going to add the proper building, paper and flashing. This was missing from my deck!
I just caught a few of your repair videos and it’s refreshing to see someone as yourself actually knowing what their talking about and doing it correctly.
I’ve been a restoration contractor for over 40 years now and I certainly would recommend you to anyone watching this video regardless of some ridicules comments! I appreciate good honest information and a job “well done “ as you’ve demonstrated here!!
This man is showing a budget friendly solution. He's solving water creep on 2 doors with a budget of one side of one door. The J channel is the issue. Thanks poster!
Thanks for this. You just saved me $$ and turned me on too a really cool multi tool. It's awesome. It took me only about 30 min to do this repair. I had a handy man tell me it was easier and cheaper to just replace the whole door with would have been over $600. This cost me $190 including buying a really nice DeWalt Multi Tool. Thank you.
To Anthony Osborne
I thought it'd be a fairly easy couple of hours DIY for me to remove a 12 in section of the bottom left side of door frame, or jamb part. A few inches had rotted, the side that borders a raised flower garden... Too much over spraying the plants over the years is the culprit.
Anyhow, I'm on day 2 lol. I put in a good 2 or 3 hours yesterday, priming the replacement wood section, gently and gingerly and slowly taking out the rotted section. My hands and wrists have gotten too weak over the years, I'm very small ones, barely weigh 90 lbs, so I get way too sore to keep praying, cutting, etc.. the rotten part out then carefully cleaning out the particles and built up calk behind that scary looking area void that is now exposed. I used work gloves and long reaching hand tools to remove the known and unknown debris, silly me, I'm too afraid of running into spiders or other creepy bugs. So far I haven't, lol. I was bound and determined to do this DIY all by myself... Well after talking too long to cut a simple 12"x3" door frame piece with a handsaw, I had my husband finish cutting that piece. Toy chargrin, a few seconds is all it took for him to cut that piece.
Yep, no doubt he could have done this job in a fraction of time that it's taking me.
Luckily I live in the SoCal area where our days are still quite warm out with no rain in sight.
I learn a lot from these very informative videos and also glean a lot from the comments! Have a wonderful weekend everyone. 😃👋✌️
Thanks for the info. I have a door jamb with dry rot, and this will help me to do my own repairs. My husband rolled his eyes when I said that I could save us a repair job on the rental. Oh ye of little faith. :) Wish me luck!
@Debbie Perkins Thank you for watching! Good luck with the repairs! I think you’ve got this 💪🔨 Be safe, and feel free to reach out to me at the website if you need any more advice
The honest carpenter doesn't like the word dry rot. That rotted area on your door jamb was caused by water and fungus.
I need to replace my rotten door jam also soon!
Great video. One tip I think to mention as I just returned from finishing neighbors' attempt at replacing is to tape back the blub weather seal on the inside of the door towards the garage whenever cutting the side jamb out actually on any project. In nearly every project I've been called to come and "fix it", the weather seal is ripped or cut leaving an opening, especially on the entry points into their homes. Once the seal is out or needs to be replaced, it can be very difficult. Keep up the good work, Rob
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.
Great videos
Great job on a very common repair! two small tips, follow your pencil line with a razor knife scribe which will leave a sharp cut edge to follow with the multi tool. Also, when removing the piece, in an effort to eliminate pry marks against the remaining wood trim members, run two drywall screws high and low and use your claw hammer to pry the piece straight off and away. These two things are especially useful when working on highly visible trim repairs. Thanks for all your great work. Your obviously very squared away and doing great work!!
That's a good tip!
Such a great tip!!
You just saved my butt! I have a week before the building inspector gets here and have the exact same issue just not as bad. Thanks a ton!
I’ve done this repair a lot. Almost the exact same way but I find it easier to cut the new PVC brick mold first, place it parallel to the rotted molding, and use the top of the replacement price to guide the oscillating saw blade. Remove the old rotted piece and the new piece slides right in. Perfect fit every time and it’s a nice time saver.
Seems like the width of the blade would cause the cut to be too high.
@@littlemissy8356 not enough to make a difference
Seejanedrill@youtube.com she will show you some tricks on saving money on those oscillating saw blades... this isn't spam...😂
I would done same thing, however I would have just added a fill bord for deck so add more stubableity its more likely not happend again
So
A second plunge cut an inch or two below the top cut helps with the splintering problem. The top cut needs to be nice and square so it looks good when the repair is done. The lower cut doesn't need to be precise since it is only to help avoid splintering into the remaining trim when you pry out the bad part.
I love how you explain thoroughly, with enough detail and sidenotes to set us up to actually succeed. And at the same time you keep it quick and basic enough to keep the video moving along and hold my interest. Good stuff! 😁
Priming and painting the wood used for the door jam, particularly on the bottom where the fibers are open would keep future rot out. Same goes for exterior doors; always paint the bottom before installing.
Not only this but seal the ends as much as possible so it doesn't soak in any moisture.
@@SteelOfLegend Super glue or loctite is supposed to be good for sealing the end grains.
Buy pvc, will never rot and looks the same.
As a homeowner who has let a handful of repairs stack up, I've watched more than a few of your videos. You seem like a really nice guy who's patient and good at everything. You should be an instructor somewhere.
Thank you, Carl! 😄
I have this brick mould repair coming up when it gets warmer... I picked up the plunge saw just for this repair. Always need a reason to pickup a new tool.
Thanks for writing in DG. They’re such handy tools. Good luck with the project!
john vonburg it’s not just trim, it’s part of the door frame in my case.
Ethan's videos are so good I'm always tempted to click "Like" within the first few seconds before he actually explains anything, because I just know what's coming is gonna be awesome.
I had a similar situation on my garage door, but just trimmed off the rotted wood and sealed it on the new end. May revisit this repair and my door on the side of my garage that has the same damage. Great video and thanks for making it appear simple enough for me to tackle. I’ll post before and after picks.
Great informative video, especially for homeowners that are scared to do repair work! You explained everything and the reasoning behind it!
Not sure why the PROFESSIONAL carpenters are watching this and giving input 🤦🏻♂️! This is for rookie carpenters wanting great info, thank you for your videos!
@Craig Bynog Thanks Craig :) You're exactly right--I was trying to show a low cost, relatively simple repair that a motivated beginner could probably tackle on their own. I know there are even more thorough approaches, clear up to replacing the whole pre-hung door. But this one probably has a total cost of about $12 overall. And, provided you have a multi-tool and a way to cut new cellular PVC, can really be carried out in about an hour or less. (I usually make the multi-tool cut and removal in a couple minutes). Thank you again for watching. I really appreciate your support!
Thank you so much for sharing your excellent informative DIY projects. Your videos are very detailed and the visuals are excellent as well. Not blurry, unfocused, shaky, etc... I'm very happy that I found your Channel, I'm definitely going to watch many more of your videos.
I sure appreciate your sharing your expertise and wonderful skills that really helps a new like myself, especially after these skyrocketing prices for materials, doesn't leave enough funds for hiring a pro any more.
Thank you so much. Have a wonderful weekend. A SoCal gal fan. 😃👋✌️
Nice job. I fill any gaps or spaces with foam filler before I set in the new brick mold and or trim. I found this helped reduce moisture build up inside. Also keeps ants from moving in as well.
What kind of foam filler do you recommend for these areas?
@@BalancingChaos I recommend the bug and insect resistant foam filler for many areas. Green can. Make sure it’s exterior too.
Just replace all the brickmold with PVC. Home Depot sells pre cut kits for just over $30. You may have to cut to fit your exact door, but would be easier than making those plunge cuts and risk a poor cut. Then you don't have to worry about any other parts rotting out and it will all match each other. The PVC kit is also paintable to your desired color.
That looks to be in Canada only. I don't see it on the US' Home Depot site.
And even if you can't buy the pvc kit from Home Depot you're better off just to replace it all with new wood. It's cheap and a lot simpler.
@@johnschwenke6307o
@@johnschwenke6307 I'm not sure if I would agree that it is "simpler"
@Richard Starr
If you have a miter saw, it's really not hard if you have a little skill working with wood. I did it in half an hour, and I'm just a shade tree carpenter. 😆
While I think this was a good video to show how you did the repair, I would suggest all who think about doing this there is a better, faster and easier way of doing this repair. Remove all 3 sides of brickmold. Buy a PVC brickmold kit which already has the miter cuts done. You will have to square cut to length and one miter for the top.( you can choose to reuse your top mitered piece if you dont want to miter) if you dont have a miter saw use a square and cut angle from the backside of the piece. The kit is about 25 dollars from home depot. This is a forever fix with no wood to PVC seams to fill, sand and make look like there's no seam. You dont even have to paint it if you dont want unlike wood brickmold which is only primed. It will take less time to replace all with PVC than to cut out section and repair. Besides its a much more professional and solid fix. I charge 95 dollars a door to do these and it takes about 15 minutes. Anyone can do this with 30 dollars and 30 minutes and no osscilator tool needed( unless you need a reason to go buy a new tool)
This was a great help. The PVC board will help with my similar problem. Do you have a video on repairing rusted out metal door? At this same door the bottom of the door has rusted out. Hoping it can be salvaged. Thanks
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
Thank you so much for the video! I thought it was possible to fix my door jamb and not have to replace the whole thing, even though my husband didn’t think so! Appreciate it very much!
Run a bead of caulk on both sides from the bottom of the mold to the plate. This is why most start to rot out in the first place. I do this with all door installs!
Great video I also have this problem on a garage service door. The volume on the video was so low I had the volume up 100%.
I'm going to have to do this on my front garage trim as the full south sun has caused it to dry out & come apart, I will replace the whole piece of trim, Yes I will be doing this my self, after I pick up some tools.
I do all my own repairs as well. Experience is the best teacher. You go girl......
Awesome as a female you made this look easy. Also the tools are on my list to purchase.
Thanks man! I’ve been an electrician for 15 years so I’m pretty handy, but I SUCK at carpentry. Great videos! Subscribed
This repair emulates my recent door jamb repair.
Honest Carpenter, I will be making a similar repair for a customer and would like to know if you would recommend just replacing the bottom portion of the brick molding like you did in this video or just replacing the entire brick molding? I am thinking that it would be easier to just replace all of the brick molding in order to avoid using a multi-tool to make several special cuts.
use the rolls of two part epoxy (they come in a little tube and look like a swiss roll) to fill the gaps at the cut points. You can sand it down before you paint the repair is invisible.
000p1l0
You’re my new go to guy in these home repairs. Excellent video, very well explained. Thank you. 🙏🏽👍
Nice channel mate! I’m from the UK and do property maintenance for a living. Really find it interesting how you do things on the other side of the pond as it were. Similar methods of repairs but on totally different styles of buildings. Would love to job swap in the USA for a month to broaden my experience as it were! Keep the good videos coming. Marc.
Marc Gray Thank you, I really appreciate you watching! I lived in Glasgow for a while when I was in my twenties. Thinking back on that time, I always wish I’d gotten to work some construction over there 😁 carpentry is one of those things: universal, and yet slightly different everywhere you go. Maybe someday I’ll get to come back that way for some work or videos!
Ah Glasgow Scotland... only been there once myself! I’m from the midlands in England which is a fair few hours drive from Glasgow 😂 like 8 !! I think the UK needs more tradesmen and women to be fair.... ones that are good at their trades and can be of help. There are still unfortunately too many people that aren’t that claim they are and take advantage!
@@MarcGray1990 Wow, England's contractors sound like America's contractors, you can trust maybe a small percentage....
Excellent tutorial. I like your organization - intro, body, & conclusion. I like the many details you describe with much specificity. You've inspired me to repair my garage service door right now - if it only weren't 20 degrees F. outside here in the Midwest! Oh well, one more thing to do this coming spring.
This video was perfect - I have to replace several pieces of baseboard moulding due to condensation/water damage from a series of interior floor-to-ceiling window frames, and I'll be using these techniques. Total newb here, but I'm confident I'll manage! The oscillating power tool looks like what I need.
I used bondo, but mine was just rotted a little at the bottom, has been good for 2 years now. Good video.
Bondo ? Wow is it still lasting?
@@hairbarber-ology yep. Holding really well. Just checked it. Super solid. I will definitely be using it again on wood rot. Best part about it is it's very easy to work with. The area I patched though was about 5 inches high and the entire width of the board
I tend to cut the old material upward at an angle and the new piece at the exact opposite angle then slide the new piece up under the exiisting wood. It makes for a smoothe transition if you cut it right
I’ll be Dad here.. ... plz wear eye and ear protection. That oscillation tool is 1 of the best tools in a fells box. Thanks for the great video!!!
Great tutorial on how to repair wood rot. Your explanations help to make the DIYer more confident in trying out this repair. Do you have a tutorial on how to repair a rotted door threshold? As in your videos, the threshold on my exterior door is made from a combination of an aluminum plate and wood underneath that supports the adjustable threshold. All the wooden components have rotted, but it is impossible to replace it and the aluminum plate (I have a patio style door with one fixed side and this aluminum plate extends underneath the immovable side as one solid piece). To replace this threshold would seem to me to require removing this whole patio doorway. Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.
I did similar replacement to 4 doors recently. One addition, a buddy/builder suggested-use Great Stuff foam or similar under threshold (if you have access). Makes it feel and sound solid and adds to air sealing.
@David Phelps That sounds like a good idea! I’m sure it helps prevent threshold bouncing and drafts
Had a similar problem and fixed it in a similar way. I filled the cavity behind the brick molding with Great Stuff plus caulk.
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I needed. I am a beginner carpenter/handy daughter trying to fill in for dad who passed away, I need to be able to fix more around the house. We had a local guy install another door frame and door because door had other issues. However, inside the building which was a garage there is open space between the garage and the door jamb. what can I put into this empty space? I might need to send a picture.
Very helpful video. However I couldn't tell if the profiles of the old and the new brick molding matched. What do you do if you can't match the profiles? Thanks!
I learn so much whenever I watch another lesson from you. Ethan, you're great!
Good fix .When replacing the Brickmold with PVC material can a pella storm screen aluminum door be installed Thanks
Using pvc brick mold, any issues during cold weather creating a big gap where the PVC butts against the wood?
I have the type of brick mold shown on your video ' fix rotted door frame (Brick mold). I want to install storm doors, but several 'local' contractors(?) have told me it's impossible without removing the existing brick mold and replacing it with a new type. I also have vinyl siding with 'J' trim surround. I think I'm being 'zoomed'. Could you please advise?
Your video is excellent. Thanks.
Great video. I have a 50 year old Peachtree wooden 8 foot sliding patio door that works perfectly. It has clear glass, slides great, screen works well, etc. However, the bottom wood is rotting. How can I replace the wood without replacing the entire door? Do you have a video tutorial on how to replace the rotted wood on a sliding patio door?
I would score the pencil line with a utility knife first to provide a groove for the oscillating tool
That’s a good point Gary! Thank you for writing in 🙂
Great idea
Random question, but what about flashing below the door jam between the deck? How is that suppose to fo
My question is just how expensive is the new brick molding? It seems to me that it the cost is not prohibitive then why not just replace the entire section with PVC? PVC would never rot period and the labour costs would be minimal.
Great Job, Just wish I could've seen it finished. 👍
Looks like you had treated 2x material for the jambsn which unfortunately may require a full season to dry before priming and painting? Curious why you didnt use pvc or regular lumber with bondo/epoxy coat for quicker painting instead?
How did you cut the slot for the weatherstripping to snap into new jamb?
This is good repair for an EMP inspection fix if you're selling a house, but if your staying any length of time replace the ENTIRE brickmould. It's just as easy and it will look better.
I would have taken the whole piece off and replaced it with the vinyl or PVC type
Excellent video. Keep up the good work.
The oscillating tool is an excellent tool but blades can be expensive. You can buy a small disc adapter to allow you to use almost any blade with your tool. Mine is a worx machine and I think I bought the small metal adapter from them.
You’re totally right Eddie! The blades can break your bank if you burn through them. Adapters and after market blades are a lifesaver 🙂
DR Dan Very true! I buy after market blades that match my brand, saves a ton. I’ll link some in the description!
I used to burn out blades like nobody's business ($$$) but learned to sharpen it except for the Japanese style aggressive teeth. Since then I converted to carbide blades, expensive at first but save $$ in the long run. Not as fast or accurate as the Japanese style but lasted almost forever and cut through imbedded nails or ever screws.
Good video and some good tips. From and older carpenter to a younger carpenter.... use your eye and ear protection. At some point you think man I should of used my eye and ear protection. Why tempt fate?
Good luck and keep up the good work.
Ron H My ears ring all the time from helping my dad use power tools in the basement when I was a kid.
Hi. What did you do to the bottom of the PVC piece you put in? It looks like it’s jagged. If that was for installing I wish you would have shown that part as well.
I've got a Ryobi 18v multitool and I was wondering how much a difference a corded one would make. I'm guessing the corded tool would have a lot more power and create quicker cuts - Hate to add another tool if it's really just a matter of time saved, and since I'm really just using it for my own home repair and DYI projects.
I have a Makita cordless and Fein corded. The Fein is definitely more powerful but I use the Makita more often for smaller jobs as it's much more convenient. It's good to have both but I wouldn't go our and buy a corded tool unless you have a specific big job on the horizon.
excellent skill - very informative
It happens usually when doors installed and not painted. I found it is faster and look better to replace all three pieces of the brickmold. PVC is preferred but if a storm door will be installed then wood is stronger, especially where there're strong winds.
Why wouldn't you use pvc trim boards for the jamb too? That PT will rot eventually.
This is the type of answer that irritates me,it all comes down to cost!a lot of home owners don’t have spare cash so you do what they can afford,simple
@@Lifes-a-Commute I agree. His answer was stupid. I've been in the trades for almost two decades now and I know this kid is not a hack. I still would've used pvc for the jamb too though. The cost difference for such a small piece is pretty insignificant. I guess I could see it if maybe he just had some PT laying around from another job, or maybe the thicknesses were different? Idk.
@john vonburg Dude , why are you screaming
Really appreciate your videos. Q: why wasn’t pvc used to replace the doorjambs in this video?
Great job! Wouldn't it have been a better idea to replace all of the brick mold since your patch is PVC, this would eliminate having to paint, or at the very least, eliminate the patch line?
thank you for the info I have some doors to repair /frames and brick mold that someone just covered with siding to hide it. I know I will have to jack up and repair floor and sill
thanks again Roy
You’re welcome Roy! Thanks for watching, and good luck with the project 🙂
One thing that's totally glossed over in this video is on the door side of the jamb, he doesn't mention anything about weatherstripping. Most doors similar to that one have the weatherstripping let into a saw kerf on the jamb. This is easy to replicate but does require table saw or special router bits.
How do you match the brick molding with the original? Are their only a few styles?
great videos. when you repair brick mold and jamb on same unit do you always cut back at different heights or same height? ty
How do you know how far back the rot actually goes? And how can you tell if the rot is part of the foundation? We’re working on replacing some dilapidated brick steps on our house, (125 year Old farmhouse) and there is wood rot all under the brick and around the door frame. I’m concerned that the foundation is compromised, but I’ve no way of knowing without digging it all out, and possibly causing a bigger problem. Any ideas?
3:15, yeah, you wouldn't want to mark up that siding
I repaired mine with bondo. Made a female jig to shape it. Took 3 applications then sanded. Took longer to make the jig than to do the repair. No more wood there to rot.
Do you have a video showing how to install a door cap (drip cap)with existing siding installed?
Do u cut upward when cutting into the rotted brickmold? If so, then wouldn't there be a gap when viewing the brickmold from the door jam?
Keep the wood from contacting the cement or what ever the surface material is ramp silicone or water and uv protected construction adhesive around the edge to repel water. Can use epoxy or fiberglass resin to cover the bottom few inches all the way around the new wood before installing it
Excellent video! You do a great job explaining what you're doing and why. Thanks!
Thank you Mark! I try to break it down as much as possible
Not much money to buy a kit of PVC brick mold and pin nail it on. I like to caulk between the brick mold and the j channel. Great video either way!
I am going to have to do this exact job. Right on time with this video. Thank you.
I've watched a number of your informative videos, including your ad for your consulting services. I have a very rotted door frame that I would like to discuss but I don't see contact information on your website for your consulting services. Please advise. Thank you, S.
How much does this repair usually cost? For the full repair
...and do you know an honest carpenter in the Dallas area
Great vidoe thanks. If you were going to fill in a gap in the bottom of the jamb/molding, would you just cut a piece of wood or PVC to fit? I don't have a rot problem, but I have a gap (there are 2 doors) where the door moldings or brickmold or whatever it's called comes down to the concrete. Not sure why they left the gaps there, but from inside, you can clearly see light coming through, meaning air and possibly mice etc. I'd like to seal those up. Many thanks if you can offer any tips.
Hey Al, in many cases, especially around garage doors, builders will leave the gap to prevent the trim from coming in contact with masonry or concrete, which always has a high moisture content. This can often be caulked, but if the gap is huge, I'd say yes, you could cut a piece of pvc a little short, and basically adhere it in with caulk on both the top and bottom
I have the opposite problem. I’m in an apartment (townhouse type) and they have the brick mold sitting right on the concrete outside the back door, which faces the south-west and gets lots of driving rain. Well, that wood trim just soaks up the water like a sponge. Ironically, the outside doesn’t look very damaged (the paint is coming loose) , but the inside door trim and baseboard (& likely the drywall) is soaking wet. It has turned brown and the paint is all wrinkled and loose. I contacted maintenance, before, and they just caulked around the edges. Now they want to install a storm door. I don’t think it’s going to solve the problem. I had a dehumidifier running next to it for months, and instead of drying it out, all I’ve managed to do is get my dehumidifier contaminated with mold and now the mold is throughout the whole place! It’s burning my throat and has infected my HVAC Unit. All from these two little wet corners of the door trim. I’m sure it’s into the drywall now. Since we’re still in the middle of Covid I’m thinking of tackling this myself. I shouldn’t have to but this can’t go on.
I’m planning to cut out the interior damaged trim and see how bad the problem is inside the walls.
If it’s not too bad, I’m planning to undercut the exterior brick mold by about a quarter inch, let it dry out and then fill it with caulk, to seal it and keep it from absorbing the water.
Does this sound like a reasonable approach? Is a quarter inch enough to stop the wicking? There is no porch roof nor anything to protect it from the rain or snow.
Don't spend a dollar to save a dime, as in time is expensive, material is cheap.. The use of PVC brick molding is an excellent choice for wet NW locations.
They need an awning to keep the rain away from the door. I don't know why people stopped doing awnings. There is a reason they were popular and I don't get why they went out of fashion.
Suggesting a good, long term fix of keeping the water away from the wall is not dishonest. Gutters are also important. Divert the water away because sealants will eventually fail, always.
I'd imagine some places quit using them for a couple of reasons, wind load rating and home owner association bylaws.
Oh God thank you so much for this video! I’m having this exact problem right now and I happened upon your video and the first one that actually explains to me what I’m supposed to be doing. Thank you thank you thank you
Never used the PVC brick mold before, or even knew it existed to be honest. Do you find it easier to shoot brads through than the pine or more difficult? Just curious
Hey Scott, this newer PVC trim is cellular--it basically seems aerated, so it's very light and takes brads just as easily as soft pine :)
I always caulk the backsides and where it meets the J-channel to the point where no moisture or insects can find a void. I do the same for kick plates with single step up doorways.
Your the best you should link tools so we buy the ones you use ♥️✅😀
I need you to come to Va to fix a lil job I have 😊
Great helpful video, as usual, thanks!
One quick thing: at the 6:45 mark you mention if this was a window
you'd need to put a 15* mitre on the replacement piece.
Do you have a video where you explain that in more detail?
I think I know what you mean, but...
Window sills are on an angle to allow water to run off when you cut a new piece of moulding you need to put the angle on back to front so it matches the sill angle
Great video, have you thought about using pvc to replace the jamb bottoms as well? Why did you chose to replace only the bottom 16” of brick mould instead of replacing the entire thing?
To save money, it cost 55.00 plus in Home Depot.
Thank you for the video, I needed it.
Where do you get this type of molding pvc
EXCELLENT VIDEO - THANKS!!! Just one question: Why didn't you use PVC for the door jamb repair? You did for the brick mold but not the jamb. Seems like it is set for more rot in the future. Thanks again for an awesome video.