Hi 👋 mad woman who bought a sawmill here - just want to say I really appreciate the in depth methodical explanations in your videos, which have helped me enormously. Thank you 👍
I learned a lot from this video. I really like the jack idea, work smarter not harder. I milling spruce which has way less taper but now I know how to deal with the few that will have more taper. Thanks
Really appreciated this explanation of how to deal with a tapered log. All others dealing with tapers seem to address the diameters vs the height of the pith. OK, most often the pith is close enough to the center of the "diameters", but not always, such as the oval shape you have. Also I wonder why nobody seems to figure our the size cant wanted and cut down to that size by cutting the desired thickness boards. Would seem to be less waste if that is done. Not a sawyer, and at 91 yoa I think I can safely say never a sawyer.
Good Job Chris. I agree with your method.was wondering if I was doing it right, I always do my cut and then flip 90 deg. and make my second cut befor lowering the towboard. Happy Sawing.
These deep dive video's are really helpful. I've seen a lot of other video's rush through this topic but your thorough explanation was excellent. After getting your top flat, you flipped 90 degrees. If you had flipped 180 degrees, you would have done the same toeboard, adjustment process, correct? Thanks!!!
So another way to think about it is out of the 4 sides you are squaring off you will only use the toe board on two of them. Two that are at a right angle to each other. The other two you don't use the toe board once you have a flat edge that always goes on the mill bunks otherwise you will end up with a pie shaped cant (figured that out the first time I used the toe board lol, but seems so obvious now). For instance if you were cutting live edge slabs you would only use the toe board on one side then when you flip it 180 you dont use it anymore. The only reason I flip it 90 degrees is to save myself lowering then raising the toe board again if you flip it 180. Another way to think about it is a milled side of the log that is flat should never be on the toe board it should be on the bunks. But in short yes if I had of flipped it 180 it wouldnt have changed anything that I did, just the steps would have been in a bit different order, basically.
@@ChrisBrackenridge Thanks, it makes sense now that you explain it that way. I saw one video where the guy only lifted the small end half the difference for the top side cut. Then flipped 180 deg. Then lifted the small end the same amount for that cut. Doesn't matter though, your method is easier and is the one I'm going to use. I really like your approach to explaining these things. Just the right amount of detail and you're hitting topics/issues that really matter to the beginning sawyer.
I’m ok with bigger cut off waste. I feel the waste is ok when you still use it. So I’d cut the waste for firewood even if it is softwood and use the sawdust for compost.
Hi 👋 mad woman who bought a sawmill here - just want to say I really appreciate the in depth methodical explanations in your videos, which have helped me enormously. Thank you 👍
You kept it simple and straight to the point.
good video.
Good tips there Chris, thanks for sharing
Good job fellow mills guy 👍
Thanks!
Thanks Chris. My 126 isn't here yet but I'm hoping to keep watching videos and get as much info stored as possible. EB
Nice! I hope everything goes well for you with the 126 when it arrives. I have enjoyed mine a lot so far.
Helpful info Chris. I learn a great deal from your videos. Thanks.
Thanks! glad to help.
Suggest a battery screw gun with socket for tow board adjust. Totally a convenience thing
I learned a lot from this video. I really like the jack idea, work smarter not harder.
I milling spruce which has way less taper but now I know how to deal with the few that will have more taper. Thanks
That's great glad that the video helped, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info.
Really appreciated this explanation of how to deal with a tapered log. All others dealing with tapers seem to address the diameters vs the height of the pith. OK, most often the pith is close enough to the center of the "diameters", but not always, such as the oval shape you have. Also I wonder why nobody seems to figure our the size cant wanted and cut down to that size by cutting the desired thickness boards. Would seem to be less waste if that is done. Not a sawyer, and at 91 yoa I think I can safely say never a sawyer.
Good Job Chris. I agree with your method.was wondering if I was doing it right, I always do my cut and then flip 90 deg. and make my second cut befor lowering the towboard. Happy Sawing.
Thanks, yes I agree that seems to be the most efficient way possible, that I know of anyway.
These deep dive video's are really helpful. I've seen a lot of other video's rush through this topic but your thorough explanation was excellent.
After getting your top flat, you flipped 90 degrees. If you had flipped 180 degrees, you would have done the same toeboard, adjustment process, correct? Thanks!!!
So another way to think about it is out of the 4 sides you are squaring off you will only use the toe board on two of them. Two that are at a right angle to each other. The other two you don't use the toe board once you have a flat edge that always goes on the mill bunks otherwise you will end up with a pie shaped cant (figured that out the first time I used the toe board lol, but seems so obvious now). For instance if you were cutting live edge slabs you would only use the toe board on one side then when you flip it 180 you dont use it anymore. The only reason I flip it 90 degrees is to save myself lowering then raising the toe board again if you flip it 180. Another way to think about it is a milled side of the log that is flat should never be on the toe board it should be on the bunks.
But in short yes if I had of flipped it 180 it wouldnt have changed anything that I did, just the steps would have been in a bit different order, basically.
@@ChrisBrackenridge Thanks, it makes sense now that you explain it that way.
I saw one video where the guy only lifted the small end half the difference for the top side cut. Then flipped 180 deg. Then lifted the small end the same amount for that cut.
Doesn't matter though, your method is easier and is the one I'm going to use.
I really like your approach to explaining these things. Just the right amount of detail and you're hitting topics/issues that really matter to the beginning sawyer.
I’m ok with bigger cut off waste. I feel the waste is ok when you still use it. So I’d cut the waste for firewood even if it is softwood and use the sawdust for compost.
The cant will only be as big as the smaller end of the log will allow, which is why most Sawyers start cutting at the smaller end of a log
Jacking up the small end of the log, isn't going to change the size of it "/ you'll just be cutting the log diagonally "/