How to Fix Common Problems with Your Woodland Mills Sawmill
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- Опубліковано 10 тра 2020
- If you're interested in learning how to fix common problems with your Woodland Mills sawmill, then you're in the right place. I follow many Facebook groups dealing with sawing and portable sawmills and I tend to see the same complaints and issues come up over and over again. Many of these issues are easily fixed with some basic knowledge and experience. Over the years I've encountered some of the same issues that you're having but have been able to learn from this issues and develop solutions. Today I'm sharing what I know about these Woodland Mills portable sawmills and offering up my suggestions to help you stay sawing moreso than fixing. As a reminder to many of you folks out there who are new to my channel, I am in no way associated with Woodland Mills and so I offer up my own opinions and fixes. The real experts are those at the technical support desk at Woodland Mills and so I encourage all of you to goto the pros if you're in doubt. If you're interested in some of my other videos dealing with all the projects I've built using my Woodland Mills HM130, please check out my playlist below or at the end of the video. As always, welcome to everyone who is new to the channel and I hope to hear from you and see you around the comments section. Thanks for watching!
Sawmill Playlist - • Simple Sawmill Shelter...
(30+ sawmill videos inside and growing) - Навчання та стиль
I have adjusted my idle rpm based on your recommendation. Not sure how much longer my clutch will last, but milling definitely became more enjoyable. As I am turning the log, the engine gently whispers in my ear instead of screaming and ringing like it used to. This adjustment is not covered in the manual. Your videos are a huge public service. Thank you
Thanks for the tour. Read the manual but it’s nice seeing someone go over common problems and fixes and prioritize them.
Glad you liked the video Brent. Thanks for watching
Sandy. As a Woodland HM-130 owner myself, you covered everything very well. I remember the frustration with the saw blade jumping off just as I hit wide open throttle. The fix for me wasn’t alignment but to take sandpaper and scuff the orange belt on the following Wheel. Also to be sure the blade was oil free and to cut a couple of logs without any lube going to break everything in. That was what Woodland Mills customer service told me to do when I contacted them. Worked without making any more adjustments to the Alignment. They said at the time that they had seen a few cases where the slick belt, the shipping oil on the bands and using lube causes the blade to hydroplane off no matter how good the alignment was.
Wow, sage advise. TY👍😎👌
Went through the tossed blade as well, the most awesome assembly manual ever, no hints or true operation... It's been 20 years since I've milled, easy to remember after I've messed up. Mill runs great after a total head alignment, blade wasn't running proper form the beginning due to improper idler wheel assembly. Had extreme cross alignment. If you turn your wheels backwards and the blade changes tracking it has cross alignment.
I am happy with the machine but the "we'd rather have customers call customer service as print an operation and adjustment manual" makes me shake my head...
Thanks again Sandy. You are correct on your earlier statement about 99.9% operator error. You've saved me from going crazy.
Again, you saved me. I was getting the pinging noise from my clutch. I found the screw and got it to idle perfectly. Thanks for doing this channel. I think it is incredibly important and helpful. It's why I even have UA-cam - to get help when I really need it. Thank you!
Glad I was able to help a fellow sawyer out. Have fun!
Thanks Sandy, I pulled the trigger today on an HM130 Max today (delivery in 3 months due to wanting the extension), told them your videos convinced me this is the one, and it is true. Your steady reviews and evaluation of the other mills really helped me figure out which one I wanted, and that is was a good idea to get the sharpener and setter on the first go. Thank you again for the videos.
Thanks for all your help brother would never of been able to make my 126 cut always look your videos up when need help
Glad I could help! Thank you for all your support
I watch your videos all the time.
You helped me decide to buy my mill. It arrived Tuesday and I got it together and cut my first logs today.
Had the pinging sound and found your problems video and it helped me fix it.
Thank you so much.
I'm really happy to hear that James!
Great Customer Service Sandy. You’ve done a great job with All your videos. Woodland Mills really does need to send you some stuff and I don’t mean a t-shirt. I’ve seen ahead that you’ve gotten the tooth setter and also the band saw blade sharpener. You’re probably more responsible for selling their products than their whole sales team,,,,lol. Keep up the great job as I’m sure folks will definitely learn from them all. Take care~
Thanks Chuck I appreciate that. I just try to show people what I enjoy doing and am glad that it's helped others.
I have seen this video previously. I ordered my mill this week, and watching this again really helps in refreshing my memory when it arrives to set up.
More good stuff, thanks Sandy! My mill should be delivered tomorrow or next. Love your insights.
Great stuff. I'll be ordering my mill shortly and will keep this one handy for when I start setting it up.
Dear Sandy, if you're not an expert by now I don't know who is. Very humble though. Thumbs up
Thanks Manu!
Very well done!!
Thank you again Sandy. Really good info.
I just set mine up yesterday your videos have helped a lot on tweaking.
Cheers from central Ontario As well.
J
Great info !
Great videos Sandy I have literally experienced every issue that you have gone through and this has helped me out immensely. Keep up the great videos
Great to hear that I’m able to help ya Jason. Thanks for watching !
Lots of valuable material in this video.... Thank you.
Michael from Alberta
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Michael!
Great job! I had the tingling from day one and my clutch is worn out now. Wish I would have seen this video sooner. I'll be calling Woodland Mills tomorrow.
Sorry to hear that Rod. Glad you have atleast figured out a solution. Hope it goes better moving forward for you.
@@sawingwithsandy thank you! The replacement clutch for the HM126 - 14hp is $90 with shipping. Part is on the way.
Just got started with my long awaited mill, 126, all going well after many days of assembly until The safety guide nudged a metal upright & chewed up the factory blade. 1 down, 10 to go, added new blade, think it was tensioned & all, next cut it jumped off after a few feet, 3rd went the same way, so now between your video & reading the instructions I’m determined to sort this out - undoubtedly user error, it’s an impressive machine, and you are their finest ambassador- cheers Sandy!
Sandy you are awesome bud. By the time my 126 arrives I will have years of YOUR experience under my belt before I make my first cut. 👍😎👌
That 126 is nice unit. I bet you'll be making dust in no time.
I love this channel because I know exactly what posts made this video needed I also laughed at the ad for a Norwood mill on your video. Keep up the good videos sandy
Hey Terry! Glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate all your support
I'm live in Germany and I have to say I only bought this machine because of your videos. This company is making really solid stuff and more importantly they always try to improve the machines because they know what their customers really need. There are sometimes still some issues like you told us in a whole bunch of videos. But nothing to give up because you're giving some really good input in how to fix common problems or even recognize several upcoming issues by being careful and sensitive for your tools. So, thanks a lot for that, Sandy! We all appreciate it :)
Keep it up and cheers from southern Germany.
Cle
Glad to hear I've got some friends overseas. Looking forward to making my way on a vacation at some point soon to your beautiful country. Thanks for watching!
@@sawingwithsandy you definitely need to do so :)
Thank you for this video. I just got the hm122 and I feel like this will help me get it adjusted right
Thanks, all good. Hillbilly Hideout. Love it! 💛
Good toolbox chat! Thnx Sandy.
Any time!
Useful knowledge 👌. I have owned a woodmizer. Thinking of getting a woodland.
Sandy my friend. My issue is with the cam clamp on a 126 mill. It doesnot apply enuf force to hold the log against the posts. I have reversed the base so it tips toward the log as per manual.. It just not come out enuf when you put the handle down. The dog face is a flat, not a point. The 122 has screw clamp dogs.. Your 130 has the same clamp as mine.
Maybe they dont tension the blade enuf. Tracking is important. I had another mill so I get this.The bed must be level lengthwise and level across the bunks. Yopu can tell when you pull the blade back after a cut . It should glide evenly over the log. No binding, no dipping at the end. logs that hang out too far over a bunk are pushed down so you end will be fat or thin.
Very good video!
Excellent video, A+
Thank you. This was an excellent video. Very informative.
Thanks Patrick. Glad you liked it
Good show thanks
I have been very pleased with the lumber quality, and uniformity There have been no thick and thins, or wedges (which is an inconsistent thickness between edges).
My only problem is that one cranking rotation (up or down) is no longer an exact thickness like it was when it was new.
Sandy, Thanks on the Idle info..On my second clutch. Will check for the ting at idle.
Anytime Jeff
Good video. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for checking it out
Hey Sandy. I was planning on doing a similar video for my mill on the torch specs of the band wheel. I tightened mine to 25ftlbs as requested right out of box with a brand new torque wrench and it was too much, which caused the blade to come off the back following the exact steps you do. Now I torque it to 17ftlbs and it works perfectly. People have to make sure this is correct for their machine by testing it. They don't all seem to be the same.
Hey there buddy how ya doing? All good things to keep an eye on. You have taught me and others so much about woodland mills sawmills, it’s as if I’ve spent time in class learning the ins and outs of how to run and maintain the mill. I’m so looking forward to getting my mill. I retire July 10th so I will be able to move up country and get started a new life making neat projects, with my mill. I’m so giddy with anticipation! Thanks again for sharing GOD bless you and yours
Retiring real soon. I'm sure you've got alot of great ideas and projects all lined up. Thanks for watching all this time.
Good information
Thanks Brian.
Great video help a lot.
Glad to hear that!
Hey great video buddy
Thx so much!!
Ive just discovered your channel and Woodland Sawmills. I'm excited that I can buy a Canadian made mill. I'd been looking at a number of different American made brands but after watching a number of your posts, I'm now seriously looking at Woodland.......and their facility in Port Perry is only about 4 hrs. south of me. "WHO KNEW!!!!!" What area of the province do you reside in? I really appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge on this product.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Hey Sandy, Now that you got it all tuned up it's time to get to work on a Sugar Shack!! You will really enjoy making syrup if you aren't stuck out in the elements for hours on end.
all good tips
Thanks Joseph!
Just got my first mill ever. Got the HM122. Not blade jumping issues, tracking is similar to a regular vertical saw, but the clutch ping had me baffled, and I noticed at 35lbs my bald absolutely will not turn. We’ll get er though. Love the channel.
Glad you’re liking the channel and good to have ya here
I really enjoy your videos. Just cut my first log on my woodland Mills 130 Max. It went pretty well but I am having issues with the sawmill shaking left to right. Along was about a 13-inch diameter Ash log. I tightened everything down in the mill assembly. It was my first log, so the blade was super Sharp. It did get better when I went super slow, but that seemed to be unworkable speed. Can you tell me what to look at?
Thanks Sandy, I did call tech about the clanging sound... I adjusted the idle screw down but it needs to go further...still clanging. My question now is I am getting a "corrugated" washboard surface when cutting white ash, tree just dropped. I have on the general purpose blade and go funeral march slow walking but still it is there. Is the general blade not capable of ash? Enjoy your videos... hitting on things I need help with.
Very Good video. I think you should refer to your gloves as your golf gloves. Because they have 18 holes.
Haha haha yeah they e seen better days
Did your HM130 come with thr adjustable guide arm? I have the hm126 and it has so much play between the pulleys that it affects the contact of the blade. I have called WM and they’re send me a new one. I was just watching videos to see if anyone else had this issue and noticed yours didn’t have the yellow plate in front where it attaches to the water spout.
Sandy,did you have any issues with the engine being square with the Pullies? My 126 is out of square 1/4 " with no elongated holes to adjust the engine
@ 15:45 you mentioned that you don't use any lubrication due to mostly sawing during colder temps (aka Ontario winters). Has that changed since? I recall you mentioning your use of windshield washer fluid for winter sawing. Am I mixing apples and oranges or has your procedure and recommendations changed since? I'm about to become a sawyer myself and just trying to father all the info a can.
Thanks again for your videos (time and willingness to share), making our learning curve that much more exponential.
What would you to have a snipe on your log?
Thanks Sandy for your video. I have a Norwood LM29 with the same engine you have. I have a hi idle, the blade keeps on turning, couldn't find a srew on the throttle mechanism to lower the idle. You showed us where the idle screw is. Thanks.
I have a rookie comment/question regarding the WM tooth setter: if most bandsaw blades are around .044” thick, why provide a .055” thick “zero-point” set tool with the setting assembly?
Hi Sandy. Here’s a problem you haven’t experienced with your mill. I received my hm122, 91/2 h.p. Kohler about two week’s ago. Set it up according to the manual. Used new 91 octane non-ethanol gas from the same can I run all of my other small four cycle engines on. Obviously filled the crankcase with 10w30 synthetic blend oil as I have used for year’s in my other engine’s. The motor started on the first pull but run’s erratically. It won’t idle, run’s rough. Giving it full throttle it runs well but when letting off of the throttle to idle it dies. It pings so if I adjust the idle lower it will not run. While holding the throttle to keep it running and making a few cuts the smoke begins to come out from the clutch side of the engine and it smell hot. Called woodland mill’s, with difficulty making contact, and they advised I would have to contact Kohler for warranty work. I called the nearest Kohler repair and they stated I would need to bring the mill to them but it would be three month’s before they could get to it. Now that I have stopped crying, do you have any idea’s as to what is going on with this motor? I reset the spark plug from .025 to .030 as the book stated but no help. Set out-to-sea without a paddle. Yard ornament? Thank you for your time and video’s. Dan😮
Hi Dan. Sounds to me like the clutch is engaging as that’s what’s that pinging sound could be with the clutch prematurely engaging due to high idle. The Kohler dealer though will know for sure. Hope things work out sooner rather than later for ya. Thanks for watching
Sandy, I just bought an HM 126 from Woodland Mills. When I even out the saw head by adjusting the cable tension, it causes the saw head to bind when I raise it up and down. It will only raise smoothly off level. Even when I lower it down all the way and there is no tension on either cable, the saw blade is not level and the entire head sits off kilter, though the track is level. I have loosened the bolts on the saw carriage and shaken it down. I have made some progress but it still seems to bind more than I believe it should. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. I've called woodland mills twice and they say loosening the bolts and a shake down will fix it, but I'm having no suck luck. Have you heard of this before?
Hi James. I wish I could help here but I’ve not experienced this before
😖 They failed to install 2 critical flat washers on one of the wheels of the Carriage Leg Sub-Assembly making it almost impossible to push the cutting head down the track. It took me 2 days to figure out what the problem was. Hopefully this post might help someone having the same problem.
Sorry to hear that Nolan. Hope things are up and running for ya now
I aligned the band wheels per manual and everything seemed to be tracking perfectly, however sometimes between cutting logs when the machine has been off for maybe an hour or so, I load a new log turn the machine on and bam blade flys off and always destroys the blade. So how is that the tracking is literally perfect torqued tension, and working fine, then after it’s turned off and back on, the blade falls off. I don’t get it . I’m sure I could be doing it wrong, but I’ve gone through the manual tediously and like I said machine will work just fine but now Ive busted 5 blades and I’m pretty pissed now.
Thank you for sharing...Just bought one after i saw u,i m building it up,i was wondering how long before u have to sharp the blades ??
Hey Eric, I normally only mill softwood and so the blades tend to last quite a while assuming I don't run them through any dirt on the log. I'd say I get to mill atleast a good 20 or 25 smallish-sized logs before I end up noticing a real reduction in sharpness.
@@sawingwithsandy thks.i got the same wood as you!!do u hAve to bend the teeth everytime you sharp the blades?
@@ericcourchesne5901 The 'bend' in the teeth is called the 'set' of the tooth. If you send your bands out for sharpening, they also check the tooth set. If you sharpen your own, you'll need the tooth setter tool or machine. That tooth set is what keeps the band from binding as it cuts, very important.
@@leemundy1613 i m doing it myself,do u set before or after sharpened the the blades ?
@@ericcourchesne5901 ...usually after, kind of a finishing touch.
Tires the belts on the cast iron wheels are called tires... not trying to be a smart-ass just trying to help out you do great videos I really enjoy them
Thanks Todd I appreciate that. Not harm done, I appreciate the info.
I got a bandsaw mill and it's been mint for a year and no all of a sudden its binding on every cut I make. Cant even cut a 4x4 with any speed with it wanting to bind up
Whenever we were confused about how to troubleshoot something, my dad would always say, “when all else fails, read the directions.” You never explain what to do if orange poly covering on left band wheel wears out. Do I have to replace whole wheel, or is there a new belt that can be put on?
There’s a new belt that goes on there as well. On the woodland mills website you’ll see a spare parts kit they sell. That’ll give you an idea of the wear parts that you may end up needing to replace
Hey Sandy my clutch has gone on my HM130 , where did you get the replacement one? Cheers
Hi Lee. I got mine from Woodland Mills directly
@@sawingwithsandy Thanks I assumed as much I have contacted their support, thanks for the quick reply its much appreciated!
just subscribed no bla bla bla bull sht, good info well done man
hello sandy i have 126 saw mill with a 14 hp motor i have problem starting it up it is a new sawmill when i pull the cord compression from the cyl it will pull back so hard it pulls right out of your hand what can i do about this the factory isn't helping thank you rick
Sounds like the spark timing is a bit too advanced meaning it is firing before the piston is at top dead center. I would go to the Kohler website and check there for how to adjust it. Most often the coil stack is a tad too close to the flywheel magnet in my experience. Simple adjustment with even a business card for a guage. Hope that helps. My 126 is in production. Only 10 weeks to go 😜
Would it do that if the clutch was engaged. That’s what my material packer was doing
I think I'm at that point where I need to track the drive side wheel. I deleted my previous comment because I had concluded that my belt was worn and the blade was leaning on the drive wheel. Now there's no question. No matter what I do (with a brand new belt) the blade "tracks" off foward 3/16" from the drive wheel. the blade inevitably comes off and breaks a couple teeth in the process. Where did you learn to adjust the drive side? The manual won't say. Thanks. Good videos.
The manual on my 2017 sawmill model has a small written section that talks about the drive side adjustmment. May be able to get the info from Woodland Mills over the phone as well. THey seem to be good with the tech support. Thanks for watching Woody.
I see your mill has little rods where the sawdust comes out. Our mills if a blade breaks it sometimes shoots out that hole we never let anyone stand on that side when the saw is running
That's a good thinng for me to keep in mind
Great points bud. Have you had any issues with you Teflon slides?
i have to replace my on my 126 and it not a year old let
Did mine yesturday
@@newfoundlandsawmilling9023 may i ask how long did it take you
I’ve been fortunate and not had my issues with mine
@@johnnyhankins5186 it took the after noon. I lowered the head down on to blocks of wood and removed the bolts from the rectangle post that the slides ride on. I pulled the post up through the the head and installed the new ones. One side at a time of course.
The water isn't dripping out of the copper nozzle when I press the throttle. I've let the top valve screw out a little too but nothing!! Any suggestions. Today was my first time using the new mill.
I find that the water tank can get clogged up with gunk so I flick the start of the clear hose while the valve is open and screw is all the way open and normally the debris clears
@@sawingwithsandy thanks for your reply. I actually saw you do that in one of your other videos too so it was the first thing I tried. My hose just stays half full of air and doesn't actually flow to the brass nozzle. I thought maybe I was supposed to unscrew the valve at the top but still nothing. I put fresh water in it for the first time today too. I'll keep trying.
I can't wait to see how your 2.0 turns out!!
Let me know if you get your problem fixed . I find I get inconsistent water flow sometimes with lots of air bubbles
@@sawingwithsandy for sure
@@sawingwithsandy I got it figured out! The throttle cable wasn't tightened down enough so it wasn't hitting the release valve on the tube. I adjusted the cable and tightened it down.
My sawmill isn't starting after a year of sitting. What should I do to fix this problem? What are my options?
I'd imagine the carburetor may need to be cleaned out
Does woodland have free videos
On my mill it dosent take a 1/4 turn to change blade position
I wonder if each is slightly different in that case
use a line laser way easy to level bed
If guys are sharpening blades and not putting set in the teeth they will heat up because it’s not making a wide enough cut we use deizel for lube
Thanks for passing along the knowledge Clayton.
I used mine for the first time and the cluch went after a couple of hrs . Did anyone else have this problem?
Sounds like too low a motor rpm. Being a centrifical clutch the higher the rpms the less the slipage and of course wear. There is a vid on here covering just that on a new mill.
Understand the average sawmill blades only last three to four hours.
That sounds a bit excessive.
What’s your experience?
I see no one answered you so i will take a shot. You can cut a lot of board feet in three or four hours and depending on how dirty the bark is and how hard the wood is will determine how long the blade with last. Just like a chain saw, after a while it will start cutting poorly so you will have to take it off and sharpen it, that's just par for the course. Hope that helps.