Rebuilding Front End Suspension 1994-2004 Ford Mustang
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- In this video I change out the front suspension on a 2004 New Edge Mustang.
Should be the same process and parts for all 1994-2004 mustangs.
Links below to everything needed for this job.
Link to Front Steering & Suspension Kit Control Arms Sway links Tie Rods -
amzn.to/3GrEGPC
Link to Front and Rear Shocks -
amzn.to/3GrEIXK
Link to Front Wheel Hub Assembly/Bearings -
amzn.to/3jDHZdd
Link to Front Brakes and Rotors -
amzn.to/3VKW721
Link to Pipe Wrench -
amzn.to/3I4XaGN
Link to Jaw Puller -
amzn.to/3PYPSWN
Link to Vice Grips -
amzn.to/3Q1yVuV
Link to Breaker Bar -
amzn.to/3vqHhTv
Link to Large Ratchet -
amzn.to/3C7zCgE
Link to 15mm Socket -
amzn.to/3I8CY6X
Link to 18mm Socket -
amzn.to/3YWXJZe
Link to 36mm Socket -
amzn.to/3GmrOtV
Link to Flathead Screwdriver -
amzn.to/3Z6Kt4m
Link to Hammer -
amzn.to/3PXzp5g
Link to Daytona Low Profile Floor Jack -
amzn.to/3Vqp7M1 - Авто та транспорт
Front Steering & Suspension Kit Control Arms Sway links Tie Rods - amzn.to/3GrEGPC
Front and Rear Shocks - amzn.to/3GrEIXK
Front Wheel Hub Assembly/Bearings - amzn.to/3jDHZdd
Front Brakes and Rotors - amzn.to/3VKW721
Pipe Wrench - amzn.to/3I4XaGN
Jaw Puller - amzn.to/3PYPSWN
Vice Grips - amzn.to/3Q1yVuV
Breaker Bar - amzn.to/3vqHhTv
Large Ratchet - amzn.to/3C7zCgE
15mm Socket - amzn.to/3I8CY6X
18mm Socket - amzn.to/3YWXJZe
36mm Socket - amzn.to/3GmrOtV
Flathead Screwdriver - amzn.to/3Z6Kt4m
Hammer - amzn.to/3PXzp5g
Daytona Low Profile Floor Jack - amzn.to/3Vqp7M1
My man, this is one of the most well laid out, concise, and accurate tutorials I’ve ever seen. I appreciate ya!
This video is highly underrated
Nice man. Pro tip, locking nut for outer tie rod nut is easier to loosen/tighten while tie rod is connected to the hub.
One of the best new edge videos to watch
Don't forget to get an alignment after.
Thanks so much for posting this video. It was exactly what I needed to knock this job out. I was able to get stock springs out by putting the jack stands high enough. The only issue I had was the front bolt on the A-arm. The bolt rubbed up against the rack and pinion. It was a pain to get out. I noticed in your video this bolt has the head facing the back of the car. So I reinstalled it like that. Thanks for the great video!!
What is the part # for the complete kit for the 1994 mustang in your video for the suspension?With wheel bearing and rotors.
Thanks
Thank you so much bro
VERY GOOD video!! I will say I've never seen a lower control arm come out OR go in that easy tho.....
Yeah got lucky with it being not to stubborn. Also helps the car is located in a very dry area so didn't have to worry to much about rusted out bolts. Thanks!
Great Job.I have a 2004 mustang and going to change out just the control arms and tie rods.
Can you come do mines please lol great job you make it look so easy
Thanks for the great video,well done !! 🎉doing my 01 gt tomorrow
Thanks for the vid! Great info to help me with my 2000 gt
Knuckle is bigger than a 24mm on mine
Great video man
Doing all of this to my 2004 Mustang convertible. Some of those nuts didn’t come off as easy as yours. That was especially true with the top nut on the strut. I had to place a chisel in the slot of the bolt to get the nut off because the bolt will turn with the nut. An impact drill would be easier but I don’t have one. Also the nut on the driver side over the ball joint wouldn’t budge so I had to cut it off with a hack saw. Watch out getting the control arm bolt in on the front driver’s side, as the steering module can get in the way. But overall I was able to do the job, and this step by step video really helped. Thanks for making it!
Whats the ride quality like?
excelente esplicacion muy buen video con detalles
Good Job
Nice vid!
Good job
You take care of your vehicle it will take care of you I want to change my suspension also lower it a little all baby steps
You don't need to take out the upper strut mount. Just compress the strut.
I have a question. I noticed when you took out The control arm, some washers fell out. So with that being said, do those washers need to go back in? I ask because I saw that you had the bolts on backwards and I wasn't sure if you put The washers there yourself or if I need to have some washers as well
Control arm bolts need to be torqued with the full weight of the vehicle on the suspension.
🤝
The issue I am having is that the top takes a flat head just like yours and I can’t hold it enough and push the wrench it won’t tighten up how did you do yours
use inpact gun to take bolts off for strut
I replaced my outer tie rods and ball joint and it still weave off to the right passenger side after getting an alignment still does the same thing it’s like I wasted money replacing those parts I’m not sure what to replace next
Great vid! Was it all metric?
you bought new lower control arms but put the old ones back on?
Hows it holding up? I know the torque spec for the wheel hub bolt is 258 ft lbs. I have nothing to get that high and I saw you just hand tightened it?
Holding up great still after 15k miles and handles like a new car. Yeah those bolts are very torqued down as you see in the video. Hand torqued it using a long breaker bar and the rod from the jack to really tighten it down and get as close as I could to that spec. It’s held up just fine since, so shouldn’t have any issues doing the same
How’s it holding up? Would you recommend this kit?
Holding up just fine and driving great after 15k miles. I would recommend them given the parts are actually pretty decent quality and feel like they will last a good while
HOW MUCH DID IT COST ?
Can i get the part # for the complete kit
Hey, great job thank you for the video! If I may ask, how much did that whole kit the front end kit cost?
Is this for the gt to I have a 2004 gt mustang
Gracias hermano por mostrarnos esto.
Definitivamente me salvaste de caer en manos de un mecanico!!!
do you have to preload the control arms before tightening completely?
It’s usually a good idea to do that. I preloaded it as best as I could with just the jack under it, but if you have ramps and can get under there once it’s on the ground then I would do it that way
I got a question when replacing these parts do you have to get a alignment?
Yes I would recommend getting one after doing this. Counting the turns when changing out the tie rod ends will get the alignment close but it won’t be perfect
How did you unscrew that top part on the old struts, i cant unscrew them if my life depended on it
Luckily mine were already loose and was easy to remove the nut on top. I know what you’re talking about with the strut spinning when trying to unscrew the nut. You may need a large wrench to hold the nut and drill with a large flathead bit to unscrew it. Hope this helps
How may hours do you figure to do the whole job. Doing the same very soon.
I would say 8 hours to do the whole job. Probably best to have a full weekend set aside to knock it out
O need to change the whole tire rod, it's leaking steering fluid.
Just adding to other suggestions… Grease the bearings…. Put the control arm under load before tightening….
No torque wrench?
how much would it cost to have this done at a shop?
Probably around $1,500-$3,000 depending on labor and quality of parts
How did you get the spring In so easy?
Make sure the car is fairly high up on jack stands so you can let the control arm come completely down. Line up the rubber cap on the top exactly and get the spring lined up the exact way it came out. Put part of it into the fully lowered control arm and then try and replicate what I do in the video, hope this helps
@@SwanCanFixIt ill give it another try thank you very much.
@@SwanCanFixIt Are your springs stock ?
@@MUSTANGVERDE Yes those are the stock springs
I don’t know how those can be stock springs. I’m counting about 8-ish coils on your spring and I’m trying to get my stock 97 Cobra springs in and I’m counting about 10-ish coils. I have my car on 12 ton stands and the control arm is completely down like yours and my spring doesn’t even come close to seating like yours. You got it in by hand and I can’t even get it in with a long pry bar. Those have to be lowering springs or factory springs that had a couple of coils cut.
This video is like in a lot of detail