Transform Your Mustang's Handling: Installing Maximum Motorsports Suspension on a 79-04 Mustang
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- Опубліковано 1 чер 2024
- Maximum Motorsports Suspension Install & Initial Impressions. 1979-2004 Mustang Maximum Grip Box. In this video I'm going to be installing a full Maximum Motorsports suspension setup in my 2001 Mustang GT. This install is similar on any 1979-2004 Mustang with a 8.8 solid rear axle. This setup has their tubular K member, lower control arms, and coil-overs up front. The rear uses a torque arm and a panhard bar to properly control the rear axle. The Maximum Motorsports setup is much more balanced and predictable.
I've owned this particular car for over 15 years now. So, I'm very familiar with how the car was prior as far as how it rode and handled. This setup is perfect for a street car. Compliant yet firm, never harsh. The ride is softer than stock actually. The steering is insane how much quicker it is with the same steering rack. The ride is so good that I start to forget how capable this car is when just cruising down the highway. Rides and handles like a dream. To take this car to a full race setup really only takes a shock, spring, and perhaps a bushing change. The geometry is all the same.
Link to Maximum Motorsports: maximummotorsports.com
They have tons of good FAQ and Tech articles here: www.maximummotorsports.com/FA...
You could piece together this kit without their help and end up with exactly the car you want if you study the articles linked above.
Full setup on this car:
Chassis:
-MM XL Subframe Connectors w/ Stifflers web brace & jacking rails (Installed in previous video)
Front
- MM tubular K member
- MM SN95 Forward offset control arms (urethane bushings)
- MM Coilovers for Bilstein dampers with 300lb/in springs
- Bilstein HD dampers
- MM Caster Camber Plates
- MM Solid steering rack bushings
- MM Bumpsteer kit
- Eibach 35mm Sway Bar
- Cadillac ATS 4 Piston Brembo Calipers on 13" Cobra rotors (Installed in previous video)
- 18x9 FR500 Replica Wheels w/ 275/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires
Rear
-MM HD Torque Arm
-MM Panhard Bar
- MM Adjustable Rear Sway Bar 1.25" x 0.95 wall (Not installed, on backorder)
- Steeda Aluminum Lower Control Arms (Previously owned)
- MM Coil overs with 175 lb/in springs
- MM "Street" dampers (Same valve cartridge as Bilstien HDs but has "off road" type seals for better durability than the Bilstein HD's when used with coilovers.)
- 11.65 Cobra rear brakes with 43mm Taurus calipers (Installed in previous video)
- 18x10 FR500 Replica Wheels w/ 285/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires
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00:00 Intro
1:12 Why 79-04 Mustangs don't handle well
4:35 Panhard Bar Install
9:00 Heavy Duty Torque Arm Install
14:45 K Member & Front Suspension Install
22:29 Initial Impressions of how it drives
29:50 Outro
#mustangsthathandle #mmequiped #mustang #newedgemustang #maximummotorsports #maxgripbox
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I've put over 6000 miles and 1 track day on this suspension setup in about 3 weeks for a cross country road trip detailed here: ua-cam.com/video/2hC25L3evyo/v-deo.html I had zero issues at all with suspension. These parts could all be used on a daily driver with no worry about durability or ride comfort.
I understand this suspension setup is a lot of money. There is a reason why. This car rides *BETTER* than stock, has more grip than what you could ever use on the street (with the right tire), and even at the limit is extremely controllable and progressive when it finally breaks free. On our road trip my wife literally said "I have no idea what you did to this car but this thing rides FANTASTIC". You can literally drive this car for 7-12 hours comfortably, throw a set of track pads on it and run with Porsches, Vettes, etc. We did it, the video is linked above...
The stock suspension especially in the rear would snap oversteer at the limit. If the rear broke loose on the stock suspension design you immediately had to crank in at least 1/2 a turn of opposite lock while letting completely off the throttle to keep the car from spinning. Mustangs are known as crowd killers for a reason. These cars gave them that reputation.
The stock suspension setup also had a ton of friction in it's design meaning, it took a lot of effort before the control arms would move so the springs and the shocks could do their job. This caused the ride on small bumps to be rough. Large pot holes and bridge expansion joints were large enough to make the stock suspension move. Small cracks in the pavement were felt right in the seat.
I've owned this particular car for over 15 years now. So, I'm very familiar with how the car was prior as far as how it rode and handled. This new setup is perfect for a street car. Compliant yet firm, never harsh dare I say nearly European. The ride is softer than stock actually. The steering is insane how much quicker it is with the same steering rack. The ride is so good that I start to forget how capable this car is when just cruising down the highway. Rides and handles like a dream. To take this car to a dedicated full race setup really only takes a shock, spring, and perhaps a bushing change. The geometry is all the same.
Link to Maximum Motorsports: maximummotorsports.com
They have tons of good FAQ and Tech articles here: www.maximummotorsports.com/FA...
You could piece together this kit without their help and end up with exactly the car you want if you study the articles linked above.
Full setup on this car:
Chassis:
-MM XL Subframe Connectors w/ Stifflers web brace & jacking rails (Installed in previous video)
Front
- MM tubular K member
- MM SN95 Forward offset control arms (urethane bushings)
- MM Coilovers for Bilstein dampers with 300lb/in springs
- Bilstein HD dampers
- MM Caster Camber Plates
- MM Solid steering rack bushings
- MM Bumpsteer kit
-MM Solid Steering Shaft
- Eibach 35mm Sway Bar
- Cadillac ATS 4 Piston Brembo Calipers on 13" Cobra rotors (Installed in previous video)
- 18x9 FR500 Replica Wheels w/ 275/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires
Rear
-MM HD Torque Arm
-MM Panhard Bar
- MM Adjustable Rear Sway Bar 1.25" x 0.95 wall
- Steeda Aluminum Lower Control Arms (Previously owned)
- MM Coil overs with 175 lb/in springs
- MM "Street" dampers (Same valve cartridge as Bilstien HDs but has "off road" type seals for better durability than the Bilstein HD's when used with coilovers.)
- 11.65 Cobra rear brakes with 43mm Taurus calipers (Installed in previous video)
- 18x10 FR500 Replica Wheels w/ 285/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires
A couple of comments.
The degraded UCA bushings shown in the car, is very typical after 10 or so years of driving. The main issue is that the tailpipes of the car loop over the rear axle right next to the bushings in both ends of the UCAs. This cooks them, so they degrade very quickly.
Stock tailpipes or those from three other companies will fit without modification, with the rear suspension shown. The Panhard bar product page on the MM website has an FAQ link which explains this.
Yes, bumpsteering the front suspension and squaring the k-member definitely requires some time. This is absolutely necessary to get the chassis of a car designed in the early 1970s to drive like a modern car. There is nothing difficult about this work. The only two requirements are patience and the ability to read.
I noticed that you are using a spacer between the rotor and hub, which appears to be made from steel, to align the caliper to the rotor. I would carefully deburr all edges of this spacer, then apply a very thin coat of antiseize to all of its urfaces. This is to stop any corrosion. Any corrosion on the hub face, spacer or rotor is going to cause the rotor to no longer be perpendicular to the axle axis and cause problems with the braking.
With regards to the tire rubbing on the lump in the fender liner for the windshield washer bottle:
I looked over me e-mail messages to RG before he made any purchases. In them, I see that I failed to discuss this issue with him. My mistake.
Even with 100% stock suspension and only slightly larger tires, the FL tire can rub on the lump in the FL fender liner, wearing through it and damaging the harness above it. The easy solution to this, is to cut the lump out of the fender liner. Then cut out a piece of 0.060” aluminum sheet and rivet it over the hole. The smooth side of the rivets should be pointing downwards, so buck the rivets from the top.
Remove the fender liner from the front half of the wheel well. There is a wiring harness directly above the hole. Move it inboard. It can be fastened to the “upper frame rail” with zip ties to keep it in place. This is to ensure that if the tire were ever to rub through the liner, that it can not damage the harness. It isn’t absolutely necessary to do, but is a good insurance policy, especially if you track the car, where there will be very large amounts of suspension travel used.
It may be possible to use a heat gun to push the inner fender and washer bottle out of the way of the tire.
Man, another great video. Keep the Mustang content coming & don't worry about the length of your videos!! Longer, more in-depth content is what I like to see, so even if you have to make the vids multi-part........
Amazing as always. You blow my mind with every new video. :)
Great job and man your knowledge with these cars are heaven sent. I just replaced my engine on a 2004 GT it's my first Mustang and from watching your videos they just made me a fan of the New Edge Mustangs. I'm gonna start replacing old suspension with MMS components to experience the same ride that you have...once again great stuff & I'm in the Cleveland area .
Really appreciate the video. I have a very similar setup on a 1986 Mercury Capri. My sequence was installing the Panhard Bar one spring and then a Torque Arm the next spring. As you say it was pretty incredible how much the Panhard Bar impacted my steering quickness. It wasn't until I installed the Torque Arm that I fully eliminated the rear body shift under hard cornering. Between those two projects I installed a MM front coilover setup on a set of Bilsteins.
Prior to those changes I installed a 2004 GT steering rack with a hybrid steering shaft I fabricated from a SN95 piece. The old worn shaft and rack didn't really warrant replacement in kind. This was definitely an upgrade I would recommend for Foxbody era cars. The single position MM aluminum bushing setup is excellent in my opinion.
My current project is putting a 1991 K member on my car in place of the 1986 K member. According to the literature this will give me some better caster, chamber, and a small weight savings. At this point I have maxed out my camber at roughly 2 degrees due to interferences with the MM caster chamber plates and the MM shock tower brace on the driver side. In addition to this the top of the coilover setup is about as close as I want it to the inside edge of the shock tower. I may use a set of SN95 front control arms, but this will depend on tire clearance at the fender. Rack limiters will be able to control left right clearance issues.
Your experience with setting bump steer is something I can also appreciate. I fabricated a setup to mount to the hub and measure changes from full bump to full droop. This was something similar to the kit from MM. What I noticed as I was lowering and raising the A arm from the front of the car with the hub gauge (MDF sheet) mounted was that if I aligned my line of sight with the sheet I could see the toe changes visually as I lowered the A arm. By leveling the sheet, lowering the A arm and holding my head steady it only took me 3 tries to set the correct tierod end height. This sounds a little goofy, but it does work without recording any measurements.
Great video. First found you when I needed to change my escape PTU oil and also the rear diff… which you made seem easy and it was. Thx brother!!
Excellent report. 15 years driving this car will make you THE go-to expert on spotting the differences and changes you've made! I've never driven a Fox body. Hopefully, I get to watch more reports on your car!
If this video does well I will give some updates for sure!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and install !!
Fantastic video! Thanks for sharing your video, comments, and thoughts!
Great video, thanks! I’m doing exactly the same for the front & rear on my 87 foxbody. Can’t wait to get it done!
Another great in depth video as always. The results of the under body treatment, MM suspension, and brake upgrades make this car far better than show room new.
The car reminds me of Stangs you used to see in the Mustang mags back in the day! Your in depth knowledge of rust treatments is what first drew me to your channel…big fan of Surface Shield!!
This journey that you took us on with the Mustang was nostalgic for me and was great in depth content. Please continue with updates on the car along with all the other great content.
BTW I am kind of partial to your current dump/turn down exhaust. I know it takes away from the true dual exhaust look the GT is known for but it worked well with the suspension set up on my ‘02 GT…weight savings probably negligible.
I added a bumper cover from a V6 Mustang to give the car a finished look. You have a true sleeper here…no one will suspect what this car is capable of. Excellent work!
My fiancee and I are going on a road trip in this car in September for our honeymoon. That is why I've been shooting mostly Mustang content over the past few months, I gotta get the car ready haha. This trip is going to make Hot Rod Power Tour look like a trip to the grocery store. I'm not saying I'm going to push this car and suspension harder than anyone else has but, I'm going to push this car and suspension setup harder than anyone who is willing to shoot a YT video on it. Haha. Depending on how these Mustang uploads treat me I MAY record the honeymoon and make an upload about it because it's going to be a bucket list type trip. These recent Mustang uploads are getting 75% less views from subscribers so, YT isn't promoting the content, and the view count as of now is low. I don't want to keep down this path if it's going to tank the channel. I may make a 2nd channel for it I'm not sure.
I can't keep the exhaust dumped like it is. Climbing hills it's nearly impossible to talk in the car because it's so loud inside with just the resonators I can feel the bottom of the seat vibrating its so loud inside lmao. The drone at certain loads and RPM's is nuts. It's getting tailpipes no way around it.
I wanted a car that visually 99.99% of people look at it and go, that's a nice Mustang but have no idea what is actually going on. Unless you notice the front brakes and the front wheel shoved forward, nobody has any idea. It's perfect.
@@RepairGeek I totally understand about not having the tailpipes certainly is not going to work for what you have planned. Some other people I follow on UA-cam have created a second channel so their original one does not tank. It is something to consider.
I wish you all the best with your future plans for the channel and in life. Congratulations to you and your fiancee. Enjoy your trip and safe travels!
Absolutely cannot wait to throw in a panhard bar in mine! I'm planning to throw the torque arm also but baby steps
I did something similar several years ago in my '02, sans the torque arm. Used all MM stuff and Koni SA coil overs. Spring selection is a decision maker as well. Car is much better on track and handles the Coyote swap well. Ride quality is a plus, but can be a bit stiff for some. Nice work!
I just bought the front k member package. With 10” 275 springs. Mostly building an in town basher and also a long distance cruiser to do power tour and what not. Awesome video!
Use a Bilstein HD strut the ride will be excellent.
It looks like you are running a true coilover setup. Definitely something I've never seen on the new Edge cars.
Thank you for this video
Your doing the same stuff I have been doing .I commute 139 miles a day with my gt .and do the canyon thing on the weekends
i got full bmr suspension with raceland coilovers & and ride performs way better. everything you said is correct. mines a 2002 gt mineral grey mustang, coyote swap gen 1.
This is exactly what I want for mine, dial in the suspension before putting power adders…What is the estimated cost for the full MM set up??
Just like anything else it just depends on what you want. I was able to reuse some of my old parts and the shocks I chose were the tamest thing I could get valving wise so that kept the cost as low as possible. I could have easily spent double on my shocks (fully adjustable) but for me there was no benefit other than making the ride worse on the street. My old D-specs were adjustable and I could make the ride tolerable or miserable. Never comfortable.
This is a very wise decision and some times a hard one. I used to own a stock powered ‘02 GT and added some MM parts to settle the chassis down.
This made the car very capable in the corners and more predictable than my friends Mustangs which had more power but were set up for straight line runs.
The subframe connectors alone will keep chassis flex to a minimum and keep the doors from sagging over time. Even if you have to build in stages it is definitely worth it. All the best!
@@lendorlando156 thanks I agree, I learned from past ownership, now on my 5th SN95 I decided to go full out on suspension first…
@@NewEdgeDesigns Nice!! My first was a ‘95 GT and then I got the ‘02 GT. Never did any real suspension upgrades to the ‘95 but I did on the ‘02 and it definitely makes a difference. You will be in good hands with the guys at Maximum (there are others) but these guys are truly dedicated and passionate about Stangs!
Excellent video!!! Just for general info - the SLP Loudmouth II catback will just *barely* clear the MM Panhard Bar and Bracket. It is a super tight fit and on bumps you will get rubbing and noise, but the catback will snake through without cutting.
I was about to post this. I have the SLP LM2 catback and don’t have any rubbing on PHB since it has adjustable tail pipes
nice video ..well explained....
Cars are built on numbers check and Double check, you are right on just bolting things on .
My 2001 Bullitt's suspension is in desperate need of a refresh. Watching this has me concerned with tackling this DIY, specially without a lift. I could just replace the shocks/struts/springs but I really want to start tracking the car. Might have to recruit a few buddies smarter than me! Thanks for the video though, great info
Looks like you got a detailed reply from The Man himself (Jack Hidley), which is nice. The MM folks have excellent customer service skills and after sale support, so no surprise...but it's still nice to see.
I initially wanted to go with the forward offset control arms as well (I have a 95), but in between spec'ing those and actually making the purchase I decided I didn't want the headaches associated with such a radical change in the front suspension geometry. I hadn't finalized my wheel/tire package at that time so I wasn't sure what the potential clearances might be. Hitting that dimple would have been an example of something I didn't want to deal with once I got everything assembled and began tuning. The nature of the MM parts would make it simple and straightforward to change the front control arms to the offset items in the future, should I determine that the car would benefit from the change. For now, the 0.75" change using the MM K alone should suffice.
Great wrap-up of an admittedly complex project. Once I finalize the last parts order, I should begin work on the 95 this winter.
The forward offset control arms sharpen up the steering response somewhat and help move some weight bias to the rear. The forward offset is what is used in all their race stuff. To take my car to a full race setup only takes a spring change, shock change and swapping the delrin bushings in the front. I like how responsive the car is I just wish Jack would have told me up front about the other mods required lol.
I'm so jealous. I would love to do a panhard bar and torque arm on my '01. Curious as to what you used on your rear end though. POR-15 maybe? Looks nice and shiny!
Details on the paint:ua-cam.com/video/6-TB1q8e2_o/v-deo.html
For the inner fender rub, might be possible to use a heat gun and reshape it to clear.
That's what I did.
love your content, esp. the Honda Fit. any similar upgrades you're going to give that one, or is it just your beater daily?
Beater daily. I'm thinking about buying another. Wife drives the silver one all the time. She LOVES that thing.
This is basically exactly what i want to do to mine. I have a vert so really want a smooth cruiser rather than a race car, but still nice and tight. The stock ride, as you described, leaves a lot to be desired.
I was wondering what the approximate time and cost of this was? And for someone without a lift if, it is worth doing? Or take it to a shop.
Can you weld? Do you know which end of the wrench to old? What's your skill level? I have no idea of you capabilities. The cost for everything is listed right on the MM website. Any MM dealer is going to charge you that price. As far as how long it took, I recorded it so my time is automatically 3x longer than what it would be had I not recorded it. If you've never installed one of these kits before figure at LEAST 8 hours on the front, and another 8 on the rear.
Hey man, excellent video, I’ve probably watched it over 10 times from when I got the car to now anticipating the install… I’m currently undergoing the K member process on my 03 GT. How did you route the passenger side brake lines? It’s a pretty tight squeeze for me on my car.
Best regards,
Luke
Bend them out of the way as best you can. Just make sure they aren't rubbing on anything or each other.
@@RepairGeek Okay, I’ll see what I can do. Also, did you have any trouble with motor mounts sitting all the way at the bottom of the K member? One side (passenger) is not bottomed out but the driver side is..
@@LvkeJohnson I didn't have any problems. This k member dropped my engine probably .5 to .75" in my engine bay. I have more room between my master cylinder and the valve cover.
If you have any reservations about it give them a call. I've installed 1 of these they've done 1000s.
I got it figured out. Had to pick up engine and re-seat it. It was only uneven by a 1/4 inch but it’s still a 1/4 inch…
Now just waiting on the non offset control arms to get here!
Thanks for the replies!
Thanks 👍
I just ordered my maximum grip box from MM, glad to see this content. A couple of questions... I wonder why they set me up with 425 lb springs in the front when they gave you 300. I also don't weld, I'm concerned with the amount of welding involved. Any advice?
From my experience it really depends on who you talk to there as far as what setup they recommend. Jack tends to be very aggressive with setups as evidenced by my forward offset control arms. Mike is a little more street oriented and less aggressive. I'm not going to speak for them because they are the experts on this stuff but if they spec'd out a 425 front spring, you told them that you were going to be very aggressive and possibly racing the car vehicle weight also plays into what spring is chosen. My car is 99.99% a street car.
You're going to have to weld. No way around it. If you can't do it, find someone or a shop that can.
@@RepairGeek thanks so much for the reply. I can’t wait to dig into your other content.
After some research on MM’s website I figured out why Mike went with 425.
While I will be driving it to the track and to work from time to time, I’m building mine primarily for open-track events. So it makes sense why he went with 425.
I’ll start looking for mobile welders. Haha. Thanks!
Excellent video, I have a s197 convertible from what you understand or know about Maximum Motorsports s197 parts do you think they would be appropriate for a autocross daily driven convertible s197?
Yep I'd use them again. MM only makes parts that the car needs. They don't offer any parts the aren't needed or that fix an issue. The S197 chassis doesn't need nearly as much work as these older cars to get them to handle correctly.
Watching this again as my Max grip box has shipped. Because I don't weld, the MM tech told me I could have the shop that is installing the subframe connects also install the Torque Arm cross member, as thats the only thing that needs to be welded for the TA. Does this sounds right?
Yes everything except the connectors ,T/A crossmember, and possibly the brackets for the rear sway bar are 100% bolt in.
• Love Your Simplistic Style In Making Videos, Earned A Sub‼
Looking Too Upgrade My Foxbody Soon W/ The Suspension Kit, 🤝🏾
Can you run the panhard bar with adjustable upper control arms instead of the torque arm?
Maximum Motorsports strongly recommends using factory uppers if you must since stiffer bushings will lead to binding
What made you not go with their 10:1 sport steering rack? Also, did you have the rear Eibach sway bar before, and it doesn't work with this setup? Or did you only ever have the front Eibach bar? Thanks
The steering rack isn't necessary in my opinion for a street car. If you wanted to save some weight you could go full manual rack but for a full weight street car to me it's not worth it. The only steering change I would consider would be going to a 03-04 Cobra steering rack for slightly better feel but overall the steering is great. Like I said at the end of the video. The steering response is MUCH quicker than stock.
I did have the rear Eibach bar. You can use it with this setup. The problem is the stock rear bar doesn't attach to the body so its effectiveness is limited. Also because of the large change in rear suspension design much more roll stiffness is required. The stock style bars helped the factory create understeer. The bar that I installed in this car is about 4-5x stiffer than any factory bar that was ever available for any of these cars.
@@RepairGeek Last question....for now. If money wasn't a factor, would you have done a cobra IRS swap and built that up?
Or would you have taken this same route? Thanks for the feedback
I see your new rear bar is 1/4 inch thicker than the Eibach rear. Pretty significant difference. 👍
@@2wheelcobra So if money is no object I would have probably gone IRS. The issue is a decent complete IRS unit is about 3k in 2022. 10 years ago they were 1k all day long...Then you have do do 1k worth up upgrades the the IRS to fix bushing issues, wheel hop, rear cover issues etc. That's 4k minimum in a rear suspension. The T/A and PHB is 1k. If you are trying to extract every single tenth of a second out of the car the IRS is justified. I'm not a good enough driver to extract every single tenth out of the car. So a 4k rear suspension is extremely hard to justify in my case. My car also isn't 4x slower than an IRS car but it was 4x cheaper. This car with a set of Michelin PS4's is FAR more capable than what you can use on the street. I have yet to hear any tire squeal on the street and trust me I've TRIED. Driving normally it feels like a completely normal car.. It's nearly European. It's firm but it's far from harsh.
When looking at sway bars and springs look at wheel rates. Wheel rate is the force it takes to make the tire move under compression of the suspension. The size of a sway bar has little to do with its wheel rate especially when 2 different bars have 2 totally different ways of attaching them to the car.
@@RepairGeek Great feedback, and thanks for taking the time to write all that. It really helps, and will likely keep me from getting too carried away with things, and over spending.
Did you purchase the MM lower control arms? Yours appear to be OEM.
Mine are Steeda aluminum units. I had them prior to this setup. MM said there was no reason the change them.
What advantages or disadvantages of this setup vs an IRS Swap, and price per performance of each.
Solid axle is far cheaper and the performance is very close or better depending on the track/car. This solid axle car has about $1200 in upgrades.
IRS is fundamentally better from an engineering standpoint but the IRS units for these cars are 2-3K used then need another 1K of work to get them on the same or better performance level as a solid axle with a torque arm and panhard bar. So you're literally comparing a $1200 upgrade to a $4000 upgrade.
If you have an unlimited budget the IRS is hard to beat but the solid axle's performance is no slouch if it has the correct parts. My car isn't 4x slower than an IRS car but it was about 4x cheaper.
Does it give anymore steering angle? I’m looking at the Detroit drift co kit
Not nearly as much as an angle kit would.
Did you ever contemplate going IRS? What was your reason not too?
Cost. A complete IRS unit is easily 2-3k in 2023. Then you need to do 1k worth of bushing upgrades to fix it's inherent issues. You can buy the PHB and TA for a solid axle for about 1k.
Empty the bottle and use the heat gun to clearance it inward for the tire at bump
Did that suspension kit help at all with takeoff traction?
Yes the Torque arm does help with traction. Most hardcore drag race guys stick with the factory 4 link though. It's easier to modify that setup to make it adjustable. The torque arm offers very little adjustability of the geometry.
@@RepairGeek I was mainly asking I like to auto cross
Yes you will have a lot more traction coming out of corners. The panhard bar and T/A does a good job of keeping the inside tire weighed in a tight corner.
So the 2001 mustang does not come with a panhard?
Not from the factory.
I have an 2001 GT conv.
I'm not discounting what was done here and think it's awesome, if you can afford it. But I've learned a lot from champion auto crossers and instructors and while they said the same thing here, that the main culprit is the upper control arm setup, that can be reckoned with using stiffer aftermarket arms, poly bushings (steeda makes ones that are safe for the torque boxes) and spherical metal bushings for the rear end housing bushings.
As far as noise and vibration I'm sure this is better, but I'm sure the mods I mentioned aren't going to chip any teeth, either. I've read reviews of these products that say there is no difference in anything but the handling.
Glad you liked the video and yes this wansn't cheap. But it drives like it wasn't cheap either haha.
I've heard about issues with the poly bushings binding when used in uppers.
So if the car is in a corner and the upper control arms are loaded laterally. You then hit a bump in the the middle of the corner, the suspension is so heavily bound up from the lateral force that it doesn't move. This causes the tires to skip on the pavement and traction is broken, making handling unpredictable. The soft stock upper bushings reduce this binding action mid corner and allow movement vertically while loaded laterally. That was why the bushings were so soft to start with and the quadshocks were needed for wheel hop. Steeda also sells a 5 link rear suspension setup for these cars. It's a standard 4 link with a panhard rod vs the stock triangulated 4 link.
I've never used poly in the uppers so I'm not sure how true it is... That was why my uppers were stock. If you install the panhard bar without the T/A MM actually wants you to use stock uppers because of the potential binding with poly.
@@RepairGeek Yes the binding is one of the worst problems of the setup from what I understand. That's part of why Steeda made a softer 3 piece poly bushing for use between the torque boxes and UCAs, and I also mentioned the spherical metal bushing for the rear end housing connection, which eliminates all binding yet offers much more articulation. I'm sure you could reinforce the TBs to be able to use the available spherical bushings there too, but again that's more money and since that's a direct connection to the body, more vibration and harshness.
I learned (and am still learning) this stuff from winning autocrossers who share their knowledge and experience online so I can get the best bang for my buck.
I don't have first hand experience with this stuff, but as I recently purchased a New Edge with memories of how the snap oversteer in my previous fox body this was the first upgrade I plan on making to the car, hence part of the reason I was here in the first place, and have been learning a lot everywhere else as well.
Anyway, I wasn't criticizing you or MM at all. If I had the money I'd do the exact same as you and am keeping this in mind in case I ever do. 👍
I know you weren't criticizing. You've been on my channel enough that I know that wasn't the case. Like anything else in life it really just comes down to cost haha.
Are these sn95s reliable cars?
The newest version is nearly 20 years old. How it's been treated over 20 years is a bigger factor than any factory issues at this point.
Who paints the whole rear rotor blue.
Me. Why mask it? It comes off on the first stop.
UH MORE MUSTARD CONTENT PLEASE
i think you built a car you can drive to daytona and race it. with luck, win the race and drive it back home.....suweeet !! right ? @#$% awsome build
so go for ride,and feed baack
I feel like it's a severe exaggeration when talking about the rear suspension design.
Other than that. Great video.
There are plenty of problems with the roll center and the anti squat geometry of the factory 4 link as well that I didn't touch on. The 4 link stuff works great for a drag car.
There is a reason the F body cars went to a torque arm and panhard bar setup in 1982.
@@RepairGeek I'm just saying. My 88 isn't anywhere that bad when I got it years ago, swapped the rear, and rebuilt that one.
You need to show the camera doing the work I don’t even know what your doing and what bolts go in or out
That was the entire point. If you don't have a basic understanding of how these cars go together... Pay someone to do this for you.
That suspension went from meh to killer
plumb bob proves earth isn't spinning at 1000 mph. it's flat people! nice video too!
😂
I will say why you didnt get a 3th gen camaro or 4th gen 🤣 its the same setup for the rear but oem. but for the price of the kit you can buy 2 camaro 🤣
Yeah those 3rd gens with 305s and 10 bolts made of tissue paper were faultless cars 😂