What to check when your Dryer will not heat
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2016
- Elements normally last for years and years, decades in most cases. If your dryer turns and blows but will not warm likely it is one of the limiting switches. They are cheap, easy to replace and simple to check.
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Working as a stuporintendant for a large property management company- I too- had the dial/switch fail on a dryer. (Because the tenant had beat on it with a hammer !?!) Now- I check anything that the tenants can get their hands on. (Really appreciate this video!)
I unexpectedly laughed at this 🤣
Oh silly tenants
Thanks. Thermal fuse was the problem on my Whirlpool. I disconnected the 2 wires, tested, touched the wires together, and heat worked. $2 part online.
Thanks I'll try that I have replaced everything all the sensors and the heat element in work for a half an hour and then it stopped
Nothing out of my Maytag dryer. Gas full to the valve. No glow plug lighting though intact. Push the main control - seems soft no clicking. No action. I tore it all down. Does my Maytag have a thermal fuse? The back doesn't come off like the one in the vid.
Sounds like its in the timer.always check the obvious first .. Do you have 250 coming in? If one side is out the 125 will run your motor but no heat
Im pretty sure I have this same dryer. It hasn’t been drying in a reasonable amount of time. I found a bunch of sticky lint on the vents which I just removed, but seems the heating element turns on and off. Is that normal for it to turn on and off while it’s drying? The airflow and spinning never stop, just the heating.
I changed my Maytag Dryers heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostat... I had a professional check my vents on the inside of the home and also clean the vent from the vent on the roof. There was really not much to clean. The dryer heated for maybe one day and has stopped heating again... Does this mean its time for a new dryer?
First thing to always check is the circuit breaker or fuse. Takes both to be working to provide heat ( unless a 120 v unit). Event if breaker looks “on” turn off then back on. Fuse check for soft or hard blow. Second is check venting. Too many technicians love to open their tool box and impress customers by using them all.
Dude thank you. I friggin just did this and now we have heat again in the dryer. Iv been watching videos on youtube for a week now. I went and got a multimeter and tested everything inside and it was all good with continuity. I was about to go into the timer and test that. Just read this comment, went over there and even though the breaker said on, I switched it off then back on. Tried the dryer and boom we have heat again. THANK YOU!
Thank you! Did it and now my dryer is working and heating
Yea the breaker was the problem. Thank you very much for your help.
Where is the circuit breaker
@@mmiabarera circuit breaker is in main panel. Should be a linked circuit breaker ( 2 side by side with a bar connecting the two). Sometimes one will trip but the pin keeps it close to closed look . Turn both off and back on to reset.
I checked all of the usual suspects, everything checked out OK. I always used the timed dry, checked using the auto moisture setting and I had heat again. Thanks for this video for pointing me in the right direction!
790badger What I eded up finding in mine was a failure in the settings switch. I was able to take it apart, clean the contacts and it has run fine since.
I actually just fixed mine by using vice grips to clamp down on one of the connections. It worked!
What about the silver box in the middle is that supposed to Oma out correctly also And did your dryer still heat up on the other settings
My heating element on my Kenmore 600 Series dryer doesn't look like that.
It seems to be totally enclosed in a sealed oval shape.
No screws holding it in place, just a piece of metal from the top of the dryer into a slot that holds it in place....
Any thoughts?
Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?
They all turn black after a while. No reason to replace if it still works.
Man thanks to you I saved 55 bucks for a new heating element
You are the man!! Thank you so much.. been working on this thing for weeks. All new stuff for nothing when it was the dial he whole time!!
Glad it worked for you.
@3:22 How does it function in the mix Nelson? It's your timer that went bad & not Pixies!
This is my exact same setup on my dryer, I was watching mine run with the back cover off and my elements comes and goes. But everything is checking out with the continuety test
Replace High limit and clean restrictions
Disconnect one side of any component you're testing for continuity so you don't get a false (beepedy beep?) reading from the opposite end 👍
😂
Mine was the dryer timer assembly. Melted contacts inside
I have a broken wire on my element but I can't find any parts for it anywhere (8576779). I find ones like it that are 5400W 240V not 5000W 240V. Could I use that instead? Is there any way to repair the wire? I dont think a solder would hold up
Turns out that all my switches and thermostats were good. It was the knob that was bad and wouldn't work on Timed Drying. Thank you so much for saying that at the end. I went through so many videos and everything tested out fine. I was so frustrated! Great job! My daughter says I should do my own UA-cam videos for the things I fix.
So how did you fix the knob?
How did you got it to work?
So, the knob itself became defective, or the timer that the knob connects to? (I know I have a bad High-Limit Thermostat - the part literally fell apart when I touched it to remove it. But I'm hoping that is the ONLY problem - will know when I get replacement part tomorrow!
But, I have seen other troubleshooting saying the Timer itself could be the culprit -this is the first I have heard about the knob itself possibly being the problem.
@@saomoua15 Well, I suppose you could order one and replace it, but I prefer using bribery and strong arm tactics. Things are more interesting that way.
also last thing to see is the wire from breaker box to outlet ? mine was 27 years old volt meter reads fine so i replace the wire and problem went away 2005 dryer runs like new maytag
The wire on the bottom of the heating element keeps burning off and timer doesn't move but stays running but no heat until clean wire and but back on but keeps happening any suggestions,please
Haha, big boy power and magic pixies. Dang pixies. Thanks for the vid.
What about those 2 purple wires should there be continuity between those
This video cracked me up. Thanks.
Thanks Dwight from the office.
I have a Crosley dryer that heat shuts off after 10 minutes and I just cleaned all vents
Just bought the whole replacement package on my roper dryer and replacement every sensor and element and still doesn't heat up. Like you said om thinking its the timer. Thanks, nice video.
Same thing happened for us. We bought a "kit" of several different items and installed them all. Circuit flows thru. Things look good. All systems go....and.....AGAIN NO HEAT :(
So what else is there left?
Did you fix your problem? Solution seems so close yet so far away!
Mine only heats on timed dry or Low heat auto-dry. It will NOT heat on Auto-High heat. What to check next? Timer????
I had this no heat problem, but the fix wasn't covered here. Checking continuity alone isn't enough. All mine checked out, but the problem was simply that one of the connections was loose from the heat sensor. I think it vibrated loose over time and moved the pin enough to release the connection but not enough that you could see it. So, even though continuity was okay with the heat sensor and all the connections looked good, they weren't. None of the connectors were checked in this video, but when I checked all mine, the heat came back on. Had I not just wiggled them a little, which is easy to do while the back is off, I would have had to call a repair person. The video is very informative, but lacks that one important step before resorting to other remedies. If your car wouldn't start, the fist thing you check is the battery connections, not the battery itself, which is the second step. Continuity testing tells you if your unit (sensor breaker in my case) is good, but doesn't tell you if your wires are properly connected to it.
I think I have the same problem as you. I haven't tested the switches yet but, it didn't work on the time dry but did work on the other cycle choices. Now its not heating at all. Have you fixed yours on the knob? I rarely hear the ticking sound for the timer and it was stopping short of the off portion of the cycle when it was working.
I had the same problem it is the timer switches cleaned the contacts if it comes apart and your good to go👍👍
That is what ended up being the issue on ours. Still running.
How do you clean the contacts?
Have the same thing wrong what do I need to check regarding the knob(timed dry)
I took it out and opened it up. The burned contacts were very obvious. Two of them had fused together and several were so burned that they did not make contact. I gently popped the fused ones apart and then slipped a bit of sandpaper between each set and gently polished them. Dryer is still working fine. Careful those little contact arms and springs don't fall out, they go all over if they do. Ask me how I know...
I'm having the same problem. I checked all of the cutoffs and they are okay. I'm thinking it might be the timer itself. They are pricey new so I might get a used one from ebay.
I ended up taking mine apart and found two burned contacts. A little sandpaper to clean them up and it has worked flawlessly ever since. I have a video on doing it on the channel. What the heck, if you can't fix it you were going to buy a new one anyway. If you can...beer money.
lots of beer money if he can. That thing can cost a pretty penny, like 148$ CAD here
I’m having the same issue you are: elements and fuse are good, but won’t dry on timed dry; only auto dry. Ever figure out the remedy?
Contacts inside the main setting switch were dirty. Took it apart, a little sandpaper and it has worked ever since.
I have a whirlpool dryer. I notice that is was overheating and would turn off. i order the fuse and the one underneath the fuse with the 4 prongs also the Thermal Cut off thermostat timer and the one above as well. I check continuity and omhs on all 4 everyone was meter well. But that didn't fix my problem no sir, the heating element stop heating, I order one replaced my old one. Bam! still no heat! moved up to my setting and checked the dial housing and cleaned it up a little since it tested well. it clicks it moves. all I have is air. Help please!
Hi, i replaced all my element exact as the model and starts but no heat at all.
What model dryer is this? I’m trying to get the part numbers for the thermal fuses and for some reason can’t find the model number.
Should be inside the parameter of the door.
Thank you you saved me time by saying it was a timer I checked it and it was a timer
The bottom right element I'm assuming. At first you checked the 2 reds on it and got the beep. Then you checked the red with the orange and got the beeps. Mine only has 2 wires. Both red and no beep when checking them both.
Maytag dryer. Lots of vent build up.
Howdy, thanks for this video. I was one of the lucky ones who had the same problem :)
Nice.
Same here. How did you fix?
This happened to me just the other day, but since i was at a laundromat it really didn't affect me.
GB
Lmao
Is there an integrated circuit control board in that thing? Seems like every appliance has 'em now, and they can go zombie for no reason at all. Also, when you have weird problems like this, Google check with model and symptoms: most of the time, somebody else has had the same problem to deal with and has already done the heavy sweating.
Daddy can i go play....? Get out of here buster!
Lotus LiFe he said " yeah buster" his kid's name is Buster , like Buster Keaton.
Lotus LiFe he said " yeah buster" his kid's name is Buster , like Buster Keaton.
my grandmother born in 1904 was buster keaton's cousin. cap lock button is broke
I replaced the heating element and thermal fuse in my dryer. It still doesn’t heat. Don’t have a multi meter is there any other way to check.
Yes you can do that by using a lamp if it lights up that means nothing wrong.
Hire a licensed technician.
What if it's heating off and on? I have an Estate by Whirlpool.
)
My dryer is doing the same thing
Check outlet for full 220 current first before replacing anything on dryer. Could be a bad breaker in breaker panel. only getting 110 to outlet. Needs 220 volts for your dryer to heat. Always check that first. If it's only getting 110 it runs,spins, buzzers will work but it will not heat without full 220. This is exactly what happened with mine . Get someone with a volt meter to check it out. Hope this info helps
Agreed - you connect accurately test continuity unless you disconnect the component that you are checking.
In this case, it measures the same and disconnecting it makes no difference
What are the parts called?
yup I find that most of the time it's one of the thermal or safety switches if not the element....but i have found most of the time it's cheaper to buy a used dryer than to replace the setting control knob on some of them....but when I do repair one I will usually just replace the element and the belt while I've got the dryer open....after fixing it's original issue...because it's usually pretty cheap to do so....think the last one I did cost about 25 bucks total....and when it's open its the perfect time to clean out all the lint good fire insurance policy lol
Upon checking a dryer out. Someone who does not understand the newer dryers installed a heating element. The dryer set up is the same as this dryer but there is only one wire connected to the heating e!ement. I cannot find where this wire comes from.
What's it called the thing you use to test it?
Yeah I did that as well, since it was opened and since it came from somewhere I have no idea, it was time to clean up all the lint and dirt that was inside lol. Also found about 3$ CAD and $2 Pesos inside. Repairing my dryer (dirty contacts) actually made me richer. That money was from the previous owner whom I know shit about lol
My dryer low , medium heat working only high heat not working what happened need advise, thanks.
It’s always best to remove one of the terminals going to the components to check for continuity. Another problem within the timer can be play in the post of the timer. All components checked out but the element wouldn’t come on unless I put up or down pressure on the timer post which the knob slides over. Remove pressure and element goes out, apply pressure and element comes on. I’m not talking lots of pressure either. The cams on the cog inside the timer get worn and move out of the way removing pressure to keep the contacts together thus disengaging heating contacts. New timer time.
Thanks Dude, good troubleshooting tip!
Joseph Folsom
Well guess what Joe? That's exactly what the problem is with my timer assy. I trouble shot the circuitry - all therms, fuses etc had continuity. Then tested with power on. No switched voltage to the heating element. Then ran it again putting bias pressure on the timer. Voila! Voltage there & element gets hot. Took bias pressure off and no voltage/heat. As you said, New timer time. Thanks mucho Joe.....Update, just ordered the new timer for $82.00, beats buying a new machine.
Installed the new timer a few days ago - works like new again. - Thanks Joe
I watched a video where someone wrapped 5 layers of foil tape around the end of one of the moving white plastic parts and that provided just enough pressure to make contact when needed.
(instead of replacing timer)
always check your timer switch the have plenty of points in them mine were burnt which wasn't sending power to the heating element alway s check that also if all these other test are okay!
What multimeter are you using?
Whats the orange wire attach to. Mine is gone.
How about the fabric temp switch? Could it be keeping it from getting heat?
Sure. Mine happened to be in the settings/timer switch. Two contacts had fused together for some reason. I was able to pull it apart, sand the contacts and it has worked fine ever since.
When I checked everything with an ohms meter I was getting continuity through the whole thing, nothing checked bad until I checked the fabric temp switch, I got crazy readings to no readings on it. Ordered a new one today hope that does the trick. Thanks, your video helped a lot.
katanatac I hope so too. Laundry mountain sucks.
Great news! it was the fabric temp switch after all! Once I replaced it, the dryer worked like it should.
Thanks for your video, it helped a lot!
The nard dog giving out drying repair solutions!!!! 😂😂😂....god you sound just like Ed helms the guy who plays Andy in the office!!!
Lots of magic pixies in the back of a dryer Nard Dog
I have intermittent heat problems. Changed the element and thermal fuse but still having problems. Any ideas?
All of my issues have ended up being the contacts in the switch. Cleaned them up and it has been running fine for years. Careful, it is complicated in there but you can do it.
NelsonStudios interesting. I did that about 2 years ago and it worked for a while. Like up to month ago. I’ll try it again. Thanks.
Thank you so much 💝
Man does Hollywood know what a stellar movie director you are? ha ha
Thanks a lot!
Why don't the multimeter just beeps?
help, ive checked all of the lower fuses, and replaced heating element. cleaned it out. what do o chech next
The switch. My issues were burned contacts inside the switch itself. Cleaned those and it has worked since.
I'm a newbie with electricity it's ok to be plugged in and check wont shock you?
With a proper meter yes but that is some big power back there so if in doubt don't.
NO FOOL. It's ELECTRICITY.
Did you ever figure out the problem?
I have the exact same symptom as you...swapped every part in there and they are all OK, but still blowing cool air on timed dry.
:|
Switch contacts were carboned up inside the big timer modal. Took it apart and managed to scrub with sand paper and it is working fine now. Someplace I have a video about doing it.
NelsonStudios My dryer is doing the same thing. First the automatic drying heat went out but timed drying worked. Now that's not heating either. So what did you do to fix it?
I found that inside the mechanical timer I had two contacts that had fused together. A little nudge with a screwdriver separated them and then a bit of sandpaper to all the contacts to facilitate magic pixie transfer and it has been working fine ever since.
Dude- spot on! Checked everything else- stumped until I read your replies- that was exactly my problem! MANY thanks to you!!!
well the funny thing I guess it that most of time problems will come from dirty connections in the timer, mine would not advance on auto dry even after the temperature would be high enough to start the timer motor until the dryer cools down enough to restart the element and stop the timer. Everything checked ok on continuity and ohm tests (should read 0 most of the places, 7k between both purple on the cycling thermo, and between 5 and 50 on the element, mine showing 11 ohm) so I opened up the timer, placed it on a auto dry setting (so the orange and white/blue wires would be connected for the automatic timer setting), and checked the terminals between the orange and white/blue terminal, they were reading 30 ohms which is very high for a simple contact without a resistance. Cleaned up the blade contacts inside the timer, checked again and it read 001. Now my dryer is working like new again. Saved a lot of money.
yep i just had this problem. dryer wouldnt turn on at all, turns out it was the white thermal cutoff on the left
Nanny State safety switches
Mine is doing the same thing. It heats only when in fluff setting.
Are you saying I need to change out the timer or the one of the thermostats, or both?
On mine the issue was contacts inside the top timer switch.
I knew I recognized your voice, great video. Thanks for sharing.
Nanny state safety switches? Would you rather they sell you the dryer without thermal protection? Heating element + lint = fire. It's just basic protection, the whole world isn't out to get you.
I don't think I can fix my dryer after watching this but it sure was fun to watch
He doesn't know shit you have to remove one Wire then check the fuse .and it's called a timer not a nob
I have tested my dryer down.... got continuity and voltage to the element thru all the nanny T 'stats. The element shows continuity and appears unbroken. It IS defying physics. HELP!
Try the switch on the top. Twice now I have gotten one going by pulling it apart an carefully cleaning all the contacts with a bit of sand paper. Lots of very small springy part in there so do it on a bed sheet or something.
How' much does heating lemet cost
How much does a heating lemet
Matthew McConaughey does dryer fix videos now?
Good stuff.
Please sir do you know the name of those switches to be replaced. My son checked all those cards and injections as he's an electrician apprentice. Our dryers 14 or more years old but if those switches are cheap I'll give them a try. I'm an impractical kinda guy mostly into art and music but perhaps I'll get some points with the wife if I change those. So could you help me learn how to identify them for buying on amazon. 😊 I'll happily PayPal you se coffee money.
You should be able to Google the model number and schematic and the part numbers should be there.
You should disconect them first and than test not with wires plugged in lol
Glad Buster got to go play
The technical service guy told me he had to replace the collateral multifunction hydraulic actuator switch and spent four hours on the job.When I got home
he just finished up and the wife was sitting in the basement smoking a cigarette and looked exhausted as if she blew a fuse too.Go figure.
You tried real hard huh?😂. You got three likes.. I was going to give you another but honestly you really need a glass of water.
The technician was multifunctioning your wife and he blew his fuse on her.
Is it safe to bypass any of the heating switches
nnnnoooooo
Katrina Sondy yea I actually bought the lower and upper thermostat switches. It was easy
You asked if it was "safe to bypass any of the heating switches"...reading comprehension problems?
could not see what part of fuse you were testing.
don't piss off the pixies!
I replaced all sensors, element, the fuse, and now it wont turn on
he said amazonened
Thanks for your great video. After watching it, for my Whirlpool stack dryer/washer unit, i replaced the $10 thermofuse, part # 3399849, and it's back in working condition again !
I don't see where you are putting the testing leads to check
This is the best tutorial I’ve found online by far! Thank you for taking the time to explain in detail
take apart timer and sand connections.... fixed !!!
Awesome.
This didn't help one bit.How about the temperature switch?
I watched the whole video and then realized my washer is busted and not the dryer..so, if my washer is busted I don’t need a dryer and by the
time I get the washer fixed the clothes will be dry anyway...I will figure it out, after all, the 12 years in spent in grade school will get me thru this
CHECK YOUR BREAKER!! A non tripped breaker doesnt mean it's working properly
I replaced everything on the back of mine. No luck. Bought a new dryer, still wouldn't heat! Come to find out, the dryer will still spin if half of the breaker is still working.
Just another tip -- The parts are so cheap - you're taking it apart (20 minutes) - order the cutoffs, order the heating element - just replace - as long as the fan is working. they can be a few bucks. But you're going in, just replace them, new dryer for cheap, good for another 10 years, you know what I mean? You're there anyways.
it could simply be dirty connectors, so replacing any parts might not solve the problems. Always diagnose everything before buying parts, sometimes a bit of clean up on contacts will fix the problem or at least eliminate one of the most frustrating problem before you end up spending money for nothing.
Nob lol timer .and when you check for the fuses take one Wire off . that's how you check . you do know how
...it was the timer switch that had gone out so...
the 220v - 110v is the heat, 110v is the timer. As long as you don't "cross" the streams - you won't get 220v :)
You sound a bit like Gary Sinise
My old one was 19 years old, just got a new one, works great!
"A bad knob"?
Yes mine was bad contacts inside the switch. I was able to clean them with a small file and got more life out of it.
keep choochin`
My problem was a tripped circuit breaker
Remember, there has to be a reason why it tripped. Breakers don't normally fail for fun so watch for something else going wrong.
@@acme663ryo I think it tripped during Hurricane Dorian and storms that came here after a few days later causing power surges
Does he sound like Dwight from the office to anybody else ?