Those drywall anchors are trademarked E-Z Ancor, they make them in metal and plastic and I love them. I think your reroute of the conduit looks much nicer than your original plan because it's not directly over that existing wall receptacle and you got that nice offset into the panel instead of transitioning to sealtite. It was worth that extra hour! I like seeing conduit offsets, that is a signature of a professional, and I don't fault anyone for using couplings. Question for you: when you terminated the EGC for the 14-50 recept, you bonded it to the box, did you use a 10-32 green screw there? I wonder why there is both a ground lug and a ground screw in there?
Yes, because if there’s only 100 amps available and they have an AC condensing unit already it’s possible to overload that service. An upgrade to 200 amps would be needed. At least for me to do this work it would be because I’m not doing any sketchy work.
@@chuckquinn8026 probably not. But it depends what all you have going on. If you have a hot tub, heaters, AC you might already be pushing the 150. If you have a gas line you’re probably not loading your 150 panel much and will be fine
the whole electric car chargers in tiny garages seems crazy to me. My neighbor has his inside garage, but car is a really tight fit so he just parks in front of garage and charges sometimes i see his car plugged in outside while it's raining out and i wonder what happens after that cord gets worn and gets a nick in insulation and somebody grabs it when wet i am sure lots of people run over the cords or lots of other ways, they can get damaged in a garage.
Unfortunately we cannot prevent people from being stupid. Regardless of wether the cord is wet or not, if insulation is nicked and you hold onto a live conductor while standing on earth you WILL GET SHOCKED or worse.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey The first sentence that came out of my mouth when I read Greg Hill's comment was, "Well that would be stupid!" You can do this with anything. You could fine the main wire coming into your house and start rubbing your hand up and down it, looking for a nick in it. If you're that dumb, then you get what you get!
Great job brotha. 20 year electrician here watching not far outta philly. So you ever patch up the holes you make, charge extra or nothing at all make them get drywall guy? Just curious everyone different. Came across your channel from you commenting on someone's else video few weeks ago and can't get enough of your videos. But we do just for education purposes!!! ✌️
I don’t know what you charge but I can’t imagine paying someone to install a charger and them leaving holes like that in my wall. Is this not part of the electrician job?
@@robertsadler940 Agreed. I would expect to not have random holes be left in my wall. It's easy enough to fix yourself, but if I paid for this job to be done, I'd be surprised to see a gaping hole after.
@@robertsadler940 you wouldn’t expect your electrician to run water lines or gas lines would you? Sure an electrician can put it in the price price and higher a painter to fix it up but, it would be cheaper if you do that yourself. He said he does rough patches witch is better than nothing.
Hi Ron, nice touch on the labeling! Was there any reason you didn't plunge-cut a strip of rock across to the outlet location, and just avoid using pipe all together? I'm guessing the cost of 8/3 NM-B versus #10 THHNs? Thank you, sir.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey okay thanks. I thought it was also used for if an inspector came by he could check the type of cable used. Appreciate the reply!
That may be, but under the electric vehicle charging section 625.54, vehicle charging recepticles require gfci protection. My book is 2020, but it is not a change in the 2020 code. Yes, 90.4 allows "interpretations" by your ahj.
@@keithharrington8715 What is "the electric vehicle charging section 625.54"? Many EVSE devices already have GFCI protection built into them. Not only is there no need for GFCI breakers in those situations, manufacturers like Tesla specifically say to NOT use a gfci breaker! Some people like yourself have said, I don't care, I'm going to use a GFCI breaker anyway, for "extra protection". Those people have been shocked (no pun intended) when they found that they couldn't charge their car, because the breaker kept tripping over and over and over again. Unless there's a damn good reason to go against NEC codes, I'd be following them. Where I live, we're on NEC 2017 as well. I'm installing my plug myself, have an EVSE device that already has GFCI protection in it and I'll therefore follow NEC guidelines. Great job, Electrician Ron!!!
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 yes, d9 not go against the code. And in the 2017 code, section 625.54 still states the receptacle needs gfci protection but hard wire doesn't. This was not changed for 2020. Also, 625requiresgfci protection in the charge unit it itself I did not write the code. Just pointing it out. As a home owner, you can do what you want, but if a problem arises, like a fire tjT destroys your $80,00 car and out garage and smoke Dagestan your house, the lesson you need to sue can b re found in the window above your bathroom sink.
why would you run only 8 gauge wire and only use a 40amp breaker. I under stand that this charger only has a max power of 32 amps but there are many 14-50 electric car chargers that pull 40 amps which require 6gauge wire and a 50 amp breaker. to me this seams kind of half ass trying to save money.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey but a nema 14-50 outlet should be able to do 50 amp load and 40 amps continuously which requires 6 gauge wire and a 50 amp breaker. Would you install a standard bedroom 120volt 15 amp circuit with a 10 amp breaker and 22 gauge wire just because the custom said he would never need to use more that 800watts of power or would never need more than 8amps of power in his bedroom?
@@riceball777 It depends on the quote, and also the customer's utility usage and how much room is left for their panel. I did 40A with 8 Awg many times. Personally I have also give customer quotes on 50A with 6Awg as well, if their service still have room. Most of the time they choose 40A with 8Awg.
Go watch more videos. I address this over and over and over again. Is that the only thing you have to say after watching the video? I’m licensed and I know the codes.
Hey Ron. With the EV charging stuff you do, have you seen any of the stuff talked about in the following? Just wondering. ua-cam.com/video/tDp9PhPJhUI/v-deo.html
@@electricianron_New_Jersey That link talks about unsafe outlets and how some are not designed to carry a constant load or so it says. Just was looking for an electrician perspective on it.
Those drywall anchors are trademarked E-Z Ancor, they make them in metal and plastic and I love them. I think your reroute of the conduit looks much nicer than your original plan because it's not directly over that existing wall receptacle and you got that nice offset into the panel instead of transitioning to sealtite. It was worth that extra hour! I like seeing conduit offsets, that is a signature of a professional, and I don't fault anyone for using couplings. Question for you: when you terminated the EGC for the 14-50 recept, you bonded it to the box, did you use a 10-32 green screw there? I wonder why there is both a ground lug and a ground screw in there?
Very helpful video, thanks for sharing.
I always learn something when watching your videos. 🙂
Enjoying the videos.. catching up on old ones.
Thank you!
Hi. Did you leave that small hole below the power panel or did you patch up?
There are only 3 wires coming out of the box, a red, a black, and a white. Where do I connect the white wire? To the neutral or to the ground?
Do most customers have a 200A service to begin with for these charging stations?
Yes, because if there’s only 100 amps available and they have an AC condensing unit already it’s possible to overload that service. An upgrade to 200 amps would be needed. At least for me to do this work it would be because I’m not doing any sketchy work.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey just curious. I have 150A service and wondering if I would need to upgrade if I bought an electric vehicle
@@chuckquinn8026 probably not. But it depends what all you have going on. If you have a hot tub, heaters, AC you might already be pushing the 150. If you have a gas line you’re probably not loading your 150 panel much and will be fine
the whole electric car chargers in tiny garages seems crazy to me. My neighbor has his inside garage, but car is a really tight fit so he just parks in front of garage and charges sometimes i see his car plugged in outside while it's raining out and i wonder what happens after that cord gets worn and gets a nick in insulation and somebody grabs it when wet i am sure lots of people run over the cords or lots of other ways, they can get damaged in a garage.
Unfortunately we cannot prevent people from being stupid. Regardless of wether the cord is wet or not, if insulation is nicked and you hold onto a live conductor while standing on earth you WILL GET SHOCKED or worse.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey
The first sentence that came out of my mouth when I read Greg Hill's comment was, "Well that would be stupid!" You can do this with anything. You could fine the main wire coming into your house and start rubbing your hand up and down it, looking for a nick in it. If you're that dumb, then you get what you get!
That’s why GFCI is there to protect you from things like this.
They’re rated for wet locations. They have GFCI protection. It’s ok.
Great job brotha. 20 year electrician here watching not far outta philly. So you ever patch up the holes you make, charge extra or nothing at all make them get drywall guy? Just curious everyone different. Came across your channel from you commenting on someone's else video few weeks ago and can't get enough of your videos. But we do just for education purposes!!! ✌️
Usually I’ll do a rough patch where someone else is spackling, sanding, and painting, but the piece by the panel I cut out fell behind the wall.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey same here
I don’t know what you charge but I can’t imagine paying someone to install a charger and them leaving holes like that in my wall. Is this not part of the electrician job?
@@robertsadler940
Agreed. I would expect to not have random holes be left in my wall. It's easy enough to fix yourself, but if I paid for this job to be done, I'd be surprised to see a gaping hole after.
@@robertsadler940 you wouldn’t expect your electrician to run water lines or gas lines would you?
Sure an electrician can put it in the price price and higher a painter to fix it up but, it would be cheaper if you do that yourself. He said he does rough patches witch is better than nothing.
Is it ok to leave cut outs on the wall?
Hi Ron, nice touch on the labeling! Was there any reason you didn't plunge-cut a strip of rock across to the outlet location, and just avoid using pipe all together? I'm guessing the cost of 8/3 NM-B versus #10 THHNs? Thank you, sir.
A 32-amp circuit would require #8AWG conductors for this application.
I tend to fix the cut outs on the wall when I finished my works.
Just curious for my own project and don't see it in this video....but is a cable inspection (LB Access Fitting) not required?
An LB is just a conduit fitting. It’s used to make sharp turns where 90 degree bends aren’t practical.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey okay thanks. I thought it was also used for if an inspector came by he could check the type of cable used. Appreciate the reply!
I didn't see any duck seal behind the outside can to the siding. Did I miss that?
Caulk.
Everything is great but why he didn't run the conduit from the panel to the bottom thru the wall and then come out instead using the offset
There is probably a dozen ways to do this job.
Nice job!!
dottie dk8 are the cast ones
Nice.
GFI protection?
NJ is on the NEC 2017.
That may be, but under the electric vehicle charging section 625.54, vehicle charging recepticles require gfci protection. My book is 2020, but it is not a change in the 2020 code.
Yes, 90.4 allows "interpretations" by your ahj.
@@keithharrington8715
What is "the electric vehicle charging section 625.54"?
Many EVSE devices already have GFCI protection built into them. Not only is there no need for GFCI breakers in those situations, manufacturers like Tesla specifically say to NOT use a gfci breaker! Some people like yourself have said, I don't care, I'm going to use a GFCI breaker anyway, for "extra protection". Those people have been shocked (no pun intended) when they found that they couldn't charge their car, because the breaker kept tripping over and over and over again.
Unless there's a damn good reason to go against NEC codes, I'd be following them. Where I live, we're on NEC 2017 as well. I'm installing my plug myself, have an EVSE device that already has GFCI protection in it and I'll therefore follow NEC guidelines.
Great job, Electrician Ron!!!
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 yes, d9 not go against the code. And in the 2017 code, section 625.54 still states the receptacle needs gfci protection but hard wire doesn't. This was not changed for 2020. Also, 625requiresgfci protection in the charge unit it itself
I did not write the code. Just pointing it out.
As a home owner, you can do what you want, but if a problem arises, like a fire tjT destroys your $80,00 car and out garage and smoke Dagestan your house, the lesson you need to sue can b re found in the window above your bathroom sink.
NJ does not yet require gfci on the outlet. Future sounds like it will need to be at the breaker
why would you run only 8 gauge wire and only use a 40amp breaker. I under stand that this charger only has a max power of 32 amps but there are many 14-50 electric car chargers that pull 40 amps which require 6gauge wire and a 50 amp breaker. to me this seams kind of half ass trying to save money.
Because this is a 32 amp load and that's what my customer paid me to install.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey but a nema 14-50 outlet should be able to do 50 amp load and 40 amps continuously which requires 6 gauge wire and a 50 amp breaker. Would you install a standard bedroom 120volt 15 amp circuit with a 10 amp breaker and 22 gauge wire just because the custom said he would never need to use more that 800watts of power or would never need more than 8amps of power in his bedroom?
@@riceball777 It depends on the quote, and also the customer's utility usage and how much room is left for their panel. I did 40A with 8 Awg many times. Personally I have also give customer quotes on 50A with 6Awg as well, if their service still have room. Most of the time they choose 40A with 8Awg.
@@apostleyayaHsu 32×1.25 is 40 amps that's all required right??
Was that disconnect already there ?
Why is it that you never talk down the breakers and the bus bars. It's nec code.
Go watch more videos. I address this over and over and over again. Is that the only thing you have to say after watching the video? I’m licensed and I know the codes.
I call those anchors Zip-its!
I call those anchors zip its
Hey Ron. With the EV charging stuff you do, have you seen any of the stuff talked about in the following? Just wondering. ua-cam.com/video/tDp9PhPJhUI/v-deo.html
I don’t get too deep into it. I certainly don’t get into the politics if it either. I’m just there doing what an electrician does.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey That link talks about unsafe outlets and how some are not designed to carry a constant load or so it says. Just was looking for an electrician perspective on it.