Amazing how I watched 5 other install videos and they did NOT give me the right info. You spelled out in the beginning everything I needed without confusion. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, Cooper (now Eaton) is on Tesla's recommended list, not just Hubbell/Bryant. Just note that this is the more expensive Eaton 5754, not to be confused with the Eaton 1258.
Very good video, good tempo and well done! I would use a metal box instead of plastic, especially when thousands of dollars are invested, you don't want the outlet to feel loose or to wiggle in two years. And, it shields better if it gets hot.
Thanks! Metal vs plastic depends on use cases and preference. For example metal sheathed wiring or surface mounting needs a metal box. Romex wiring like I used is fine with plastic. Yes, metal does have the advantage of not melting or twisting. No issues after two years of use. I do recommend opening up the outlet to torque the wires a month after the first installation and every year or two after that. The heat cycling of the wiring at 40-60 A for long periods of time can be demanding.
Oh yes! glad someone else noticed it! I would never use plastic, I hate them anyway and if you have a chance to work on an open wall, stud right there and all, then use metal. The outlet will grab on better and this is a heavy outlet, strong to pull out and push in, and it wiggle making me nuts. And, like you said, metal protects from heat way better than the nasty Smurf blue plastic toy box. Moreover, I did this and sprayed the fire foam (comes out orange) around the box before I drywalled it. He did this well and it will pass the inspection, it meets code, but knowing how to do it is not the same as "have done it for decades" , old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill. He also needs to wiggle stranded wires and re-torque. Knowledge: Tomato is a fruit Wisdom: not to add tomato to a fruit salad.
7:34 Looks like you didn't land the red conductor properly in the terminal. You can see one of the strands is not under the clamp and is preventing the conductor from seating to the bottom.
Upon taking apart the outlet, all of the red conductors were under the clamp. What you see is the right side of the back clamp (it has a L shape). When looking from the top angle it appears to look like a conductor wire. See here: ua-cam.com/video/g5o2kiOXwBE/v-deo.html
My example was for my garage before I had the drywall installed. Depending on how the wire routing is in your situation, you can either install in in the walls or use a conduit and surface run the wires. If the distance to your electrical panel is short, then opening the drywall may not be too bad. You may not have to do the entire wall, just the section it goes through - say a 1 foot high opening along the wall.
Talk with a local electrician. There are bits about 3 ft long with holes in the tip that Electricians use to drill through studs and then pull the wire back. Borrow or rent one, maybe. Your local electrician may have other ideas.
Great video. I’m planning to do the same but using a waterproof outlet box since I wash my car in the garage. I wonder if you can recommend the parts. You forgot to put the link to the torque screwdriver and to the charger gun and cable holder.
Thanks for the feedback. I added the links at the end of the video description list. As far as a weatherproof outlet box, this one looks nice. Expandable and looks like plenty of room for the wire to go through the bottom of the cover opening when closed. amzn.to/3dSOGDc
When I did this project, I looked through the code and could not find anything specifying a minimum distance. The main house exterior panel has an outlet just underneath the panel and that was not a problem when it was inspected.
Nope, just good judgement. It should not interfere if you are plugging a fat cable that will hang from it, but is perfectly fine to have a receptacle right next to it. In fact, code requires in some jurisdictions to have a service outlet right next to the panel.
I assume it matters what direction the plug is installed and positioned in? Seems like the ground is at the top? Also does it matter if you don't have the wire through the stud tightly bent against the stud with wire nuts (it seems to bow out quite a bit and that may be due to the size of wire)? I had an inspector once tell me that the wires need to be tight against the stud as soon as they come through the hole so as not to stick out into the cavity and possibly be drilled into or cut if the wall is cut into (this would be if you have a covered wall later of course).
Yes, per Tesla instructions, the ground is at the top. This allows the mobile connector to hang correctly. With thick wires like a 6 gauge, it's almost impossible to bend the wire that close to the stud. Yes, it's best to keep the wire pushed back from the front as best you can to reduce any chance of it being cut. You always need to be careful when cutting into walls where an outlet is nearby. When I insulated the walls, I placed three inches of fiberglass bats over the wiring and then the drywall in front of that.
One commentator mentioned wire connection order:. Ground first, neutral second, hot(s) last. Rever order for disconnect. Hot(s) first, the neutral, then ground. The ground is a safety to trip the breaker during faults,. Connecting the hot last prevents a "hot neutral". Thus, the safest pathway for workers to travel and a safe habit to develope. But, there is no power....yes, check a circuit myself, twice, and luckily only turned a $40 pliers into a burnt up paper weight. So please SAFETY FIRST NEVER LAST LAST, HAVE A FUTURE NOT JUST A PAST. Safety first
Ever had an “over heat” issue at the receptacle & the umc auto degrades the Amps down to 30 or high 20’s with the car saying check receptacle? (With that Model receptacle you have used)
No issues with heat. The garage usually didn’t get hotter than upper 80s in the summer. You can watch my video that measures temps while charging. ua-cam.com/video/D0w8VYX7Y9o/v-deo.html
For general info 2020 NEC code change requires gfci's on "250 vac" (their words) recepticles in garages....210.8(A). And 210.8 (A).(2). Check if this applies in your area.
It really depends where you live. Building codes vary by city/county/state/etc. Most cities will require a permit to do a project. However, some may just require an inspection when work is complete. You'll need to find out what is needed in your area. A good place to start is the city's website and search electrical permits or inspections. Good luck.
There are no issues with the coiled wire. I read on the manufacturer's website that it is coiled to save space incase it needs to be lengthened in the future. Since is it attached to the breaker, is it is cut too short, the whole breaker needs to be replaced if you make changes requiring a longer neutral wire.
I would suggest an electrician to give you specific recommendations for a difficult install. Without seeing it, I would guess trenching or some other way of running the wire from the house to the garage.
Technically, the mobile connector does not need the neutral wire. That's why a NEMA 6-50 will also work. NEMA 14-50 is the most common outlet for EVSEs.
If you buy a generator for standby power outages consider the Powerhorse 7500 Inverter. It comes with the Nema 14-50 plug standard. Less than 1.5% distortion and a new definition of super-quiet. Great reviews, we love ours, works great.
So I placed an order for M3 LR 2022. What type of default charger do they give with the car? Just a 120v outlet plug? Since I want to add 240v outlet to my garage, what do I need to buy to connect the car to the new outlet? Do I need that $500 wall charger? I dont get why the wall charger costs so much if its just a wall mounted holder for a charging cable.
The car comes with a mobile connector that has a removable 120V 15A normal household plug. You can order a NEMA 14-50 adapter directly from Tesla for $45. The wall connector is a more powerful version of the mobile connector that allows up to 48A charging vs 32A on the mobile connector. However to get that high, it needs to be hard wired to a 60A breaker. For most use, 32A is plenty and it’s a lot cheaper. Some people also get the wall connector because they think it looks nicer.
@@MTNRanger great explanation! OK so I will contact an electrician to figure out if my breaker box can support another 60A breaker before spending $500 on the wall charger. Shame that Tesla wont give a basic adapter.
If your area doesn't require a GFCI, I recommend a regular 50 Amp 240V breaker. Be aware there are many different types depending on your breaker box - get the one that is compatible. For example: a Type BR would be: amzn.to/3at8iwb a Type CF would be: amzn.to/34rC1Su a Type QP would be: amzn.to/2K97bHu a Square D would be: amzn.to/3p3yTUH I used this since it was required for inspection: Eaton GFCB250CS or GFTCB250 GFCI Type BR Breaker: amzn.to/3h0LwNl or amzn.to/3mqM5Bm
@@fredilucha5554 6/3 Romex cable (NM-B) is rated for 55 Amps. Look at this chart, first column, fifth row: www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/ You can always use thicker wire (lower gauge number) for future proofing.
What was the breaker size feeding your sub panel? I have a 60amp breaker feeding my sub for my detached garage. I was interested in adding an EV charger but unsure if the 60amp would tolerate a 50 amp breaker for an EV charger. Thoughts?
Do you have any other breakers in that sub panel? If the panel is empty, a 50 A breaker is no problem. In fact, the mobile connector will only use 32 A, which is way below the 80% limit of 60 A.
@@MTNRanger so I have multiple circuits in that’s panel that serve garage doors and outlets. I have the space but not sure on capacity. The garage doors and outlets would not be in use when charging overnight (obviously).
@@RPHPros From what you describe, you shouldn't have a problem with a NEMA 14-50 and a 50 A breaker. If it was fairly full with many circuits running at the same time (refrigerator/dehumidifier/mini split/etc) I would scale it down to a NEMA 14-30 with a 30 A breaker. 24 A vs 32 A charging is not a huge difference if you charge 10-20% of the battery pack every night.
does the 2nd gen mobile connector allow higher than 32 amp charging? I just installed one with a 40 amp breaker because the store was sold out but it sounds like I have no reason to obtain a 50 am breaker...
2nd Gen MC has a max of 32A. Yes, a 40A breaker is fine if you are just using 32A. If you want 40A, try to find a used 1nd Gen MC on eBay. But then you would need to replace the breaker.
All electrical work requiring access to the interior of an electrical panel requires a qualified professional. This is serious work… that can cause serious problems as it will be one of the largest loads on the the distribution panel.
Requires someone with the knowledge on hooking up a new circuit to a panel which doesn't necessarily mean 'qualified' professional. Nothing magical about adding a new breaker to a panel and wiring it to an outlet. For those that do research and feel comfortable with it, go for it. Many (not all) will do a neater job than a professional as it's they're home. UA-cam has democratized much of what used to be 'expertise'. All the best.
@@davidmurray6070 i can show you a picture of the hole where my neighbours house used to be…. “Just needed a simple hookup of an outbuilding, I can get my buddy to do it!”
The big factor is how far away the outlet will be from a panel. It could be anywhere from $200 - $800 or more. Don’t forget to add inspection fees if required.
I have a 14 bmw i3, I’m going to install a 240v in my garage with a 32 amp breaker, a 32 amp receptacle, with 8 gauge wiring so I can charge my car, I’m I on the right path?
You will get a net 24 A charging. Yes 8 gauge wire is appropriate for this application. This video is better for you: Tesla - NEMA 14-30 Outlet Installation ua-cam.com/video/G4NqHC-erOY/v-deo.html
What outlet is it? NEMA 14-50, 6-50, 14-30, 10-30? I'm not aware of a specific 40A outlet. Here is a good chart to determine what you have: www.stayonline.com/product-resources/nema-straight-blade-reference-chart.asp
Technically, the Mobile Connectors don’t need it - for example a NEMA 6-50 doesn’t have one. But for correct wiring to code, you need to have a neutral with a NEMA 14-50.
I have my outlet about 6' above the floor. My Mobile Connector Unit unplugged from the short cord and dropped to the floor, about 5'. Got Warning: "Unable to charge - Mobile Connector GFCI tripped". Looks like internal GFCI tripped/damaged and will not reset. DO NOT DROP YOUR CHARGER ON THE FLOOR
I’ve dropped mine plenty of times. Have you contacted Tesla service? It is covered under the standard warranty (provided you are under 50k miles). It’s a good idea to use a bracket to support the main portion of the mobile connector.
@@MTNRanger Thanks a lot. I ended up using 25lb for all screws and Just passed inspection yesterday. Initial inspection failed because City requires GFCI breaker as you mentioned, so had to order another one and switch. Your video is very through and really appreciate it. I pretty much bought everything in the list except the cord cutter. and another brand(Bryant ) of Nema 15 -50 out let because it was also high quality and cheaper ($30). I ended up installed the outlet right at bottom of the panel since the panel is close to garage door so close to charging point already and i don't need to screw all the stud
Conduit is required if you use THHN/THWN wire, not Romex (NM-B) cable like I used. This is course is for my particular situation. Please check your local code.
There are torque specifications printed on the breaker and sometimes on the outlet. I use the breaker numbers for all the connections for that circuit.
@@MTNRanger Thanks for the quick response. Do you happen to recall what that was? I installed it a year ago but would like to verify and I have the same outlet as you (Cooper 5745N)
The price difference is minimal, I would suggest using 6 gauge. Also, liability/insurance reasons: if someone uses 40 amps in the future and doesn't know about the wiring, it may be a fire risk.
@@MTNRanger well in my situation it’s not. I have a sub panel in the garage that is fed with 8 gauge. If I install 6 gauge I’ll have to upgrade the feed from the main panel through a finished basement. So it will be very costly.
@@stbny4444 What other breakers are in the garage sub panel or will this be the only one? What is the breaker size in the main panel that connects to the sub panel? Is the wire to the sub panel aluminum or copper?
@@stbny4444 So as the sub panel is currently set up, you could get 24 A out of that breaker. That's fine with the current wiring and planned use of 8 gauge.
@@jamestrads497 In my previous house, it was about $300 to install the outlet about ten feet from the panel. Probably $100 for materials and $200 for labor.
@@MTNRanger thanks for replying. Correct me if I'm wrong. - 14-50 nema outlet - 6/3 romex or thnh - 50 amp breaker Are these the materials for a tesla charger ?
So I’m wondering why we just can’t buy the Lowe or Home Depot brand they look exactly the same and only cost between 10-$15 bucks ? Anyone using those instead and let me know if same results .
The cheap hardware store outlets are poorly made and no where near the level of the industrial versions. They also don't support repeated plugging/unplugging. I wouldn't risk my garage for it.
I've seen several melted cheap ones. They just can't cope with continuous EV charging. I hardwired my current EV charger so I don't need to deal with plugs anymore.
I've never hear of that before. If the electrical panel is turned off from the main junction box, there are no live wires. I don't see how the order makes a difference.
No one ever shows an outdoor/weatherproof installation of these. Also, the outdoor boxes with outlets are some brands that no one has ever really heard of…. Lol it’s as if I’m going to need to buy the $500 wall connector. 🤦♂️
I'm sure there is an outdoor NEMA 14-50 install somewhere. It is a less common option, but there are a lot of people that don't have garages. A simple box like this would work: amzn.to/3E1Pgs1 If you live in an area where leaving an expensive item outside is not a good idea, I would recommend a waterproof box to house the outlet and mobile connector. priuschat.com/attachments/evse-box2-jpg.57900/
@@MTNRanger this is actually what I ended up installing, it’s pretty far up my drive close to rear of house but I still take my connector inside when I’m leaving the house. Can’t put too much trust in human beings…
It depends on the electrical code in your area. You may have to route the wire (may require conduit) from the basement to the garage. If the rear garage wall is near the basement, I would try to get as much routed in the basement before it enters the garage. Where it enters the garage: 1) if the walls are finished you will need to run it within conduit along the wall to the location you desire, 2) if the walls are just studs without drywall, you can drill holes in the studs to get the wire to the location you desire.
@@14mmv On the outlet, the bare wire goes into the ground opening (which is top when viewing the installed outlet), the white wire goes in the neutral opening (opposite side of the ground opening, which is bottom when viewing the installed outlet). The red and black wires go into the left and right openings (doesn't matter which, they are both line). On the breaker, the red and black wires go into the breaker (again, it doesn't matter which opening), the bare wire goes to the ground bar on the left of the box, the white wire goes to the neutral bar on the right side of the box.
Are you talking about the outlet connections? Looking at the outlet with the ground facing up, the top wire is bare (ground), the bottom wire is white (neutral) and the left or right are red and black. It doesn't matter if you put the red and black wires on the left or right side. They are both "hot".
You can run a wire as long as you need it to go so that it’s in a good position. Check out my video in my garage setup to see: ua-cam.com/video/Hh8cMAsknvA/v-deo.htmlm26s
Check with your local Electricians. There is voltage drop requirement in the NEC, BUT jurisdictions can change or adjust code. The voltage drop is caused by the resistance in the wire. This means that the more current draw, the more voltage dropped. Also, the longer the wire the more resistance to the wire. And remember your charger should have voltage drop specification in the instructions.
Yes, I mentioned in the beginning to always turn off the electrical panel before working on it. I turned off the service line disconnect on the house that leads to the garage.
No No No No wall charge plugs or module. Ceiling Install Pull rope down to the charge port Unplug and release the plug and cable to ceiling. So Never ever have a 240v plug / charger on a wall Clealing install the plug / cable with spring / bungee cord / rope weight with pull down ribbon for a pull-down plug / cable.
Thanks for the suggestion. Do you have a link for a good pull down? Is it flexible enough to charge a car in either parking spot and parked head in or reverse in?
So you buy a $50,000 car and can't put in a 48 amp wall connector, cheap and stupid. I installed my Tesla Wall Connector myself, easy, and faster charging speed.
I think this is smart ... it offers flexibility. If they sell the house, there's a universal outlet for a welder or any EV charger. You're not stuck with a hard wired Tesla-only charger... and they can take their charger with them.
2:13 Eaton 5754N NEMA 14-50 receptacle
2:43 Carlon B234ADJC double gang box with wire clamp
3:00 Leviton 80530 cover plate
3:11 Eaton GFCB250 50A GFCI breaker (or something else that suits your panel and your local code)
3:33 Romex 6/3 copper wire
3:54 Service entrance staples
4:05 3/4" breaker box wire clamp
4:15 Wire protector plates
4:22 Wire stripper/cutter for 6-12 AWG
4:31 Needle nose and flat nose pliers
4:42 Torque wrench/screwdriver
4:53 3/4" drill bit, hammer
4:56 Plan wire route
5:03 Drill stud hole(s)
5:10 Put wire protection plate(s)
5:16 Thread wire through hole(s)
5:30 Strip wires
6:09 Attach wires to outlet
8:24 Attach receptacle to the box
9:19 Attach cover plate
9:38 Remove one 3/4" knock-out on the panel
9:55 Install 3/4" clamp
10:00 Insert wiring into clamp, tighten clamp, secure wire with staples
10:39 Connect wires to panel/breaker
12:38 Place the panel cover back on
Thanks so much, I've been slowly adding timestamps to my videos. I added this to the video description.
I’ve never seen anyone so obsessed with tightening screws to spec 🤣
If you live long enough you will find that over time poorly tightened connections heat up and catch fire.
There have been numerous reports of charging issues were traced to poorly tightened wiring.
If you ever owned a royal Enfield motorcycle, following torque specs is a religious practice or else you face the consequences
Proper torque ensures that fasteners don’t loosen. Neglected small details can bite you in the ass.
you would be surprised that often server processors are installed with precision tightening. Before I saw this I never knew there was such a need lol
Amazing how I watched 5 other install videos and they did NOT give me the right info. You spelled out in the beginning everything I needed without confusion. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
THATS WHY UA-cam NEEDS THE DISLIKE NUMBERS BACK!
Best of the best video installation ever on UA-cam! Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!
Yes, Cooper (now Eaton) is on Tesla's recommended list, not just Hubbell/Bryant. Just note that this is the more expensive Eaton 5754, not to be confused with the Eaton 1258.
Great video. I have done this myself and this video was perfect 🤩👌
nice, we bought a gen1 umc on kijiji as well and used it on our LR tm3 for a bit before upgrading to the hpwc. havent exceeded 40a yet
Good job much more thorough then most
Thanks so much for this informative video
Very good video, good tempo and well done! I would use a metal box instead of plastic, especially when thousands of dollars are invested, you don't want the outlet to feel loose or to wiggle in two years. And, it shields better if it gets hot.
Thanks! Metal vs plastic depends on use cases and preference. For example metal sheathed wiring or surface mounting needs a metal box. Romex wiring like I used is fine with plastic. Yes, metal does have the advantage of not melting or twisting. No issues after two years of use. I do recommend opening up the outlet to torque the wires a month after the first installation and every year or two after that. The heat cycling of the wiring at 40-60 A for long periods of time can be demanding.
Any concern using a plastic gang box with all the heat from EV charging?
Oh yes! glad someone else noticed it! I would never use plastic, I hate them anyway and if you have a chance to work on an open wall, stud right there and all, then use metal. The outlet will grab on better and this is a heavy outlet, strong to pull out and push in, and it wiggle making me nuts. And, like you said, metal protects from heat way better than the nasty Smurf blue plastic toy box. Moreover, I did this and sprayed the fire foam (comes out orange) around the box before I drywalled it.
He did this well and it will pass the inspection, it meets code, but knowing how to do it is not the same as "have done it for decades" , old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill. He also needs to wiggle stranded wires and re-torque.
Knowledge: Tomato is a fruit
Wisdom: not to add tomato to a fruit salad.
Wow thank you for this amazingly instructive video!!
Great video Thanks, thew red wire appears a little bit out.
Someone else mentioned that too. I checked and it's fine.
Great video. Thank you for the information. Can you make video on different Nema Chargers..
If you mean other NEMA outlets, I have recently done this one: ua-cam.com/video/G4NqHC-erOY/v-deo.html
The bike water bottle holder as a charger holder is a great idea!
Thanks, I used that at my previous house too. Simple, effective and cheap.
7:34 Looks like you didn't land the red conductor properly in the terminal. You can see one of the strands is not under the clamp and is preventing the conductor from seating to the bottom.
Thanks, I'll pop it out and take a look.
Upon taking apart the outlet, all of the red conductors were under the clamp. What you see is the right side of the back clamp (it has a L shape). When looking from the top angle it appears to look like a conductor wire. See here: ua-cam.com/video/g5o2kiOXwBE/v-deo.html
@@MTNRanger Shoot, I should have watched the clip back a few more times, before I commented. Angles can be deceiving.
I'm confused. Should I remove my whole side of dry wall to install this?
My example was for my garage before I had the drywall installed. Depending on how the wire routing is in your situation, you can either install in in the walls or use a conduit and surface run the wires. If the distance to your electrical panel is short, then opening the drywall may not be too bad. You may not have to do the entire wall, just the section it goes through - say a 1 foot high opening along the wall.
Talk with a local electrician. There are bits about 3 ft long with holes in the tip that Electricians use to drill through studs and then pull the wire back. Borrow or rent one, maybe. Your local electrician may have other ideas.
Great video. I’m planning to do the same but using a waterproof outlet box since I wash my car in the garage. I wonder if you can recommend the parts.
You forgot to put the link to the torque screwdriver and to the charger gun and cable holder.
Thanks for the feedback. I added the links at the end of the video description list. As far as a weatherproof outlet box, this one looks nice. Expandable and looks like plenty of room for the wire to go through the bottom of the cover opening when closed. amzn.to/3dSOGDc
Is there a minimum distance between the panel and receptacle? I'm considering adding mine very close. Thanks
When I did this project, I looked through the code and could not find anything specifying a minimum distance. The main house exterior panel has an outlet just underneath the panel and that was not a problem when it was inspected.
@@MTNRanger Thanks
Does not matter
Nope, just good judgement. It should not interfere if you are plugging a fat cable that will hang from it, but is perfectly fine to have a receptacle right next to it. In fact, code requires in some jurisdictions to have a service outlet right next to the panel.
I assume it matters what direction the plug is installed and positioned in? Seems like the ground is at the top? Also does it matter if you don't have the wire through the stud tightly bent against the stud with wire nuts (it seems to bow out quite a bit and that may be due to the size of wire)? I had an inspector once tell me that the wires need to be tight against the stud as soon as they come through the hole so as not to stick out into the cavity and possibly be drilled into or cut if the wall is cut into (this would be if you have a covered wall later of course).
Yes, per Tesla instructions, the ground is at the top. This allows the mobile connector to hang correctly.
With thick wires like a 6 gauge, it's almost impossible to bend the wire that close to the stud. Yes, it's best to keep the wire pushed back from the front as best you can to reduce any chance of it being cut. You always need to be careful when cutting into walls where an outlet is nearby. When I insulated the walls, I placed three inches of fiberglass bats over the wiring and then the drywall in front of that.
excellent video. I have a quick question, if I'm having a 50 amp wall outlet installed, does it matter if it's 220V or 240V?
220V and 240V are the same thing (just like 110V and 120V). 240V is the modern reference (since 1968!) and I prefer using that term.
One commentator mentioned wire connection order:. Ground first, neutral second, hot(s) last. Rever order for disconnect. Hot(s) first, the neutral, then ground.
The ground is a safety to trip the breaker during faults,. Connecting the hot last prevents a "hot neutral". Thus, the safest pathway for workers to travel and a safe habit to develope.
But, there is no power....yes, check a circuit myself, twice, and luckily only turned a $40 pliers into a burnt up paper weight.
So please
SAFETY FIRST NEVER LAST LAST, HAVE A FUTURE NOT JUST A PAST.
Safety first
Ever had an “over heat” issue at the receptacle & the umc auto degrades the Amps down to 30 or high 20’s with the car saying check receptacle? (With that Model receptacle you have used)
No issues with heat. The garage usually didn’t get hotter than upper 80s in the summer. You can watch my video that measures temps while charging. ua-cam.com/video/D0w8VYX7Y9o/v-deo.html
For general info 2020 NEC code change requires gfci's on "250 vac" (their words) recepticles in garages....210.8(A). And 210.8 (A).(2). Check if this applies in your area.
I live in a townhome, do I need to get city permit to install 14-50 NEMA outlet in my patio?
It really depends where you live. Building codes vary by city/county/state/etc. Most cities will require a permit to do a project. However, some may just require an inspection when work is complete. You'll need to find out what is needed in your area. A good place to start is the city's website and search electrical permits or inspections. Good luck.
"...And tighten to the right spec." What is the right spec for your devicee and 6 gauge wire?
Usually the breaker or outlet will specify the torque. I think it was 27 in-lbs.
Does the coiled neutral from the breaker to the bus bar not matter..?
There are no issues with the coiled wire. I read on the manufacturer's website that it is coiled to save space incase it needs to be lengthened in the future. Since is it attached to the breaker, is it is cut too short, the whole breaker needs to be replaced if you make changes requiring a longer neutral wire.
Relative easy because there is no cover drywall. Otherwise cabling and box opening need more effort.
Yes, having open walls makes things easier. It's not uncommon in some garages.
question, what do i do if my garage is detached to a alley and my box is connected to the house?
I would suggest an electrician to give you specific recommendations for a difficult install. Without seeing it, I would guess trenching or some other way of running the wire from the house to the garage.
Since the Gen 1 handle more amps , does it charger faster than the Gen 2?
Yes, it 40 vs 32 Amps, 25% more. Say about, 38 miles per hour versus 30 miles per hour.
Does the Tesla 14-50 adapter actually use all of the prongs on it? I have read that some do nothing.
Technically, the mobile connector does not need the neutral wire. That's why a NEMA 6-50 will also work. NEMA 14-50 is the most common outlet for EVSEs.
If you buy a generator for standby power outages consider the Powerhorse 7500 Inverter. It comes with the Nema 14-50 plug standard. Less than 1.5% distortion and a new definition of super-quiet. Great reviews, we love ours, works great.
Thanks for the suggestions.
So I placed an order for M3 LR 2022. What type of default charger do they give with the car? Just a 120v outlet plug? Since I want to add 240v outlet to my garage, what do I need to buy to connect the car to the new outlet? Do I need that $500 wall charger? I dont get why the wall charger costs so much if its just a wall mounted holder for a charging cable.
The car comes with a mobile connector that has a removable 120V 15A normal household plug. You can order a NEMA 14-50 adapter directly from Tesla for $45. The wall connector is a more powerful version of the mobile connector that allows up to 48A charging vs 32A on the mobile connector. However to get that high, it needs to be hard wired to a 60A breaker. For most use, 32A is plenty and it’s a lot cheaper. Some people also get the wall connector because they think it looks nicer.
@@MTNRanger great explanation! OK so I will contact an electrician to figure out if my breaker box can support another 60A breaker before spending $500 on the wall charger. Shame that Tesla wont give a basic adapter.
@@longwalkshortpier Tesla gave both the NEMA 6-15 and 14-50 with my car. They discontinued giving the 14-50 a couple years ago.
Thank your nice video. It’s very useful to me.
Is that a bicycle water bottle holder for the charger?
Yes it is. Link is in the video description.
@@MTNRanger ahh I see that now, but I didn't see the plug plug holder link from the video
Exceptional video
Super super nice video!
Can you provide a link or where you purchased the 50 amp circuit breaker thanks
If your area doesn't require a GFCI, I recommend a regular 50 Amp 240V breaker. Be aware there are many different types depending on your breaker box - get the one that is compatible.
For example:
a Type BR would be: amzn.to/3at8iwb
a Type CF would be: amzn.to/34rC1Su
a Type QP would be: amzn.to/2K97bHu
a Square D would be: amzn.to/3p3yTUH
I used this since it was required for inspection: Eaton GFCB250CS or GFTCB250 GFCI Type BR Breaker:
amzn.to/3h0LwNl or amzn.to/3mqM5Bm
That cable is for like 70 amp. Outlet and breaker are for 50 amps. So it is correct use that cable ????
@@fredilucha5554 6/3 Romex cable (NM-B) is rated for 55 Amps. Look at this chart, first column, fifth row: www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/ You can always use thicker wire (lower gauge number) for future proofing.
What was the breaker size feeding your sub panel? I have a 60amp breaker feeding my sub for my detached garage. I was interested in adding an EV charger but unsure if the 60amp would tolerate a 50 amp breaker for an EV charger. Thoughts?
Do you have any other breakers in that sub panel? If the panel is empty, a 50 A breaker is no problem. In fact, the mobile connector will only use 32 A, which is way below the 80% limit of 60 A.
@@MTNRanger so I have multiple circuits in that’s panel that serve garage doors and outlets. I have the space but not sure on capacity. The garage doors and outlets would not be in use when charging overnight (obviously).
@@RPHPros From what you describe, you shouldn't have a problem with a NEMA 14-50 and a 50 A breaker. If it was fairly full with many circuits running at the same time (refrigerator/dehumidifier/mini split/etc) I would scale it down to a NEMA 14-30 with a 30 A breaker. 24 A vs 32 A charging is not a huge difference if you charge 10-20% of the battery pack every night.
does the 2nd gen mobile connector allow higher than 32 amp charging? I just installed one with a 40 amp breaker because the store was sold out but it sounds like I have no reason to obtain a 50 am breaker...
2nd Gen MC has a max of 32A. Yes, a 40A breaker is fine if you are just using 32A. If you want 40A, try to find a used 1nd Gen MC on eBay. But then you would need to replace the breaker.
@@MTNRanger Thanks!
Hey dude you should tape the back of the device for safety.
I've lived in five house and have never seen wrapped outlets. It's not required in code and I personally would not do it.
@@MTNRanger It's only common practice when you have exposed terminals in a metal box. You have neither here.
All electrical work requiring access to the interior of an electrical panel requires a qualified professional. This is serious work… that can cause serious problems as it will be one of the largest loads on the the distribution panel.
Requires someone with the knowledge on hooking up a new circuit to a panel which doesn't necessarily mean 'qualified' professional. Nothing magical about adding a new breaker to a panel and wiring it to an outlet. For those that do research and feel comfortable with it, go for it. Many (not all) will do a neater job than a professional as it's they're home. UA-cam has democratized much of what used to be 'expertise'. All the best.
@@davidmurray6070 i can show you a picture of the hole where my neighbours house used to be…. “Just needed a simple hookup of an outbuilding, I can get my buddy to do it!”
@@brentstarkes9682 Sure, no pics of mishaps from the pros?
@@davidmurray6070 Seriously ... "qualified professionals" act like they were born with the knowledge and no one else can acquire it like they did.
Around How much for somebody to install this?
The big factor is how far away the outlet will be from a panel. It could be anywhere from $200 - $800 or more. Don’t forget to add inspection fees if required.
@@MTNRanger thanks fam
I have a 14 bmw i3, I’m going to install a 240v in my garage with a 32 amp breaker, a 32 amp receptacle, with 8 gauge wiring so I can charge my car, I’m I on the right path?
You will get a net 24 A charging. Yes 8 gauge wire is appropriate for this application. This video is better for you: Tesla - NEMA 14-30 Outlet Installation
ua-cam.com/video/G4NqHC-erOY/v-deo.html
I have a 240 volt 40 Amp in my garage, does need to be upgraded to 50 Amp to work or 40 Amp will do the job? For Tesla cars?
What outlet is it? NEMA 14-50, 6-50, 14-30, 10-30? I'm not aware of a specific 40A outlet. Here is a good chart to determine what you have: www.stayonline.com/product-resources/nema-straight-blade-reference-chart.asp
Read the specs on your charger
@@ericweaver3057 thx
Do you need neutral?
Technically, the Mobile Connectors don’t need it - for example a NEMA 6-50 doesn’t have one. But for correct wiring to code, you need to have a neutral with a NEMA 14-50.
@@MTNRanger oh wow thanks for the respond and great tip. I also asked my journeyman about this and he told me I did. I’m assuming for code🤟🏻
I have my outlet about 6' above the floor. My Mobile Connector Unit unplugged from the short cord and dropped to the floor, about 5'. Got Warning: "Unable to charge - Mobile Connector GFCI tripped". Looks like internal GFCI tripped/damaged and will not reset.
DO NOT DROP YOUR CHARGER ON THE FLOOR
I’ve dropped mine plenty of times. Have you contacted Tesla service? It is covered under the standard warranty (provided you are under 50k miles). It’s a good idea to use a bracket to support the main portion of the mobile connector.
@@MTNRanger great video thank you! Where can I find the bracket for the mobile connector? Thanks
@@c.c.p9380 Thanks. It's an aluminum bicycle water bottle holder, only $5 or so. amzn.to/3cj4tZZ
@@MTNRanger perfect thanks!
@@c.c.p9380 the Tesla branded cable organizer shop.tesla.com/product/cable-organizer includes a chassis holder for the Tesla Mobile Connecter.
What spec it is to tighten the screws on NEMA014-50R as well as panel ?
I can't recall off the top of my head. I'll check the panel and outlets and get back to you.
The breaker says to use 27 lb/in of torque for a 6 gauge wire. I would do the same with the outlet if it doesn't specify.
@@MTNRanger Thanks a lot. I ended up using 25lb for all screws and Just passed inspection yesterday. Initial inspection failed because City requires GFCI breaker as you mentioned, so had to order another one and switch. Your video is very through and really appreciate it. I pretty much bought everything in the list except the cord cutter. and another brand(Bryant ) of Nema 15 -50 out let because it was also high quality and cheaper ($30). I ended up installed the outlet right at bottom of the panel since the panel is close to garage door so close to charging point already and i don't need to screw all the stud
@@lingkaizou5585 Great, I'm glad it worked out well!
Great and next project is that insulation installed heee heeee
Already done. I have a whole series on the garage construction. ua-cam.com/play/PL3KGLh_BqvV6i1jcVJYBkD0tVn4KLbx6V.html
Great video!
Thank you!
is a conduit required?
Conduit is required if you use THHN/THWN wire, not Romex (NM-B) cable like I used. This is course is for my particular situation. Please check your local code.
@K lake Thanks, I edited the response to be clear.
Did not show where the black red the copper ground goes behind the outlet
The top is the bare ground, the left and right are the red and black hot (doesn't matter which), and the bottom is the white neutral.
How do you find what the required torque spec is?
There are torque specifications printed on the breaker and sometimes on the outlet. I use the breaker numbers for all the connections for that circuit.
@@MTNRanger Thanks for the quick response. Do you happen to recall what that was? I installed it a year ago but would like to verify and I have the same outlet as you (Cooper 5745N)
@@greganson3627 Luckily I took a photo of the breaker and it was 27 in/lbs for 4 to 6 gauge wire.
@@MTNRanger NICE! Thanks again!
Can I use 8 gauge if I'm only pulling 32 Amps?
The price difference is minimal, I would suggest using 6 gauge. Also, liability/insurance reasons: if someone uses 40 amps in the future and doesn't know about the wiring, it may be a fire risk.
@@MTNRanger well in my situation it’s not. I have a sub panel in the garage that is fed with 8 gauge. If I install 6 gauge I’ll have to upgrade the feed from the main panel through a finished basement. So it will be very costly.
@@stbny4444 What other breakers are in the garage sub panel or will this be the only one? What is the breaker size in the main panel that connects to the sub panel? Is the wire to the sub panel aluminum or copper?
@@MTNRanger wire to sub is copper. Not labeled with gauge. The sub has a 2 pole 30 amp breaker in the main panel.
@@stbny4444 So as the sub panel is currently set up, you could get 24 A out of that breaker. That's fine with the current wiring and planned use of 8 gauge.
How much would be the labor cost to have someone install it for you? Anyone?
There are many variables. Depending on the difficulty of your particular situation. $200-300 labor seems a good ballpark.
@@MTNRanger is that included labor? I only need about 4 ft outlet away of my panel box. Thanks for replying.
@@jamestrads497 In my previous house, it was about $300 to install the outlet about ten feet from the panel. Probably $100 for materials and $200 for labor.
@@MTNRanger thanks for replying. Correct me if I'm wrong.
- 14-50 nema outlet
- 6/3 romex or thnh
- 50 amp breaker
Are these the materials for a tesla charger ?
@@jamestrads497 Yes, some more things may be need like in the beginning of the video - cover plate and some miscellaneous parts.
So I’m wondering why we just can’t buy the Lowe or Home Depot brand they look exactly the same and only cost between 10-$15 bucks ? Anyone using those instead and let me know if same results .
The cheap hardware store outlets are poorly made and no where near the level of the industrial versions. They also don't support repeated plugging/unplugging. I wouldn't risk my garage for it.
I've seen several melted cheap ones. They just can't cope with continuous EV charging. I hardwired my current EV charger so I don't need to deal with plugs anymore.
Ground wire should always be installed first. Then the neutral second.
I've never hear of that before. If the electrical panel is turned off from the main junction box, there are no live wires. I don't see how the order makes a difference.
@@MTNRanger Completely agree. Don't matter when the electrical panel is turned off.
@@MTNRanger Many people have been shocked by "off" circuits. The point is even when you think it's off, it might not be.
No one ever shows an outdoor/weatherproof installation of these. Also, the outdoor boxes with outlets are some brands that no one has ever really heard of….
Lol it’s as if I’m going to need to buy the $500 wall connector. 🤦♂️
I'm sure there is an outdoor NEMA 14-50 install somewhere. It is a less common option, but there are a lot of people that don't have garages. A simple box like this would work: amzn.to/3E1Pgs1 If you live in an area where leaving an expensive item outside is not a good idea, I would recommend a waterproof box to house the outlet and mobile connector. priuschat.com/attachments/evse-box2-jpg.57900/
@@MTNRanger this is actually what I ended up installing, it’s pretty far up my drive close to rear of house but I still take my connector inside when I’m leaving the house.
Can’t put too much trust in human beings…
My car is parked on the left side of my garage and my electrical panel is on the right side of my house (basement). How do I feed the cable?
It depends on the electrical code in your area. You may have to route the wire (may require conduit) from the basement to the garage. If the rear garage wall is near the basement, I would try to get as much routed in the basement before it enters the garage. Where it enters the garage: 1) if the walls are finished you will need to run it within conduit along the wall to the location you desire, 2) if the walls are just studs without drywall, you can drill holes in the studs to get the wire to the location you desire.
Very informative video but soft talking and very loud in-between music makes for an annoying experience.
Sorry, about that. I've been fixing that for newer videos.
Top tip: get an electrician to install it, don't f*** around trying to DIY something that will be carrying so much juice.
your video is fast that it cannot be seen where you attach the wires. this is not a very good educational vedic
Sorry if it goes too fast. Which do you need help with, the wires at the breaker or the outlet?
both the main point is that where the wires are attached not how the wires are run through the walls and conduit
@@14mmv On the outlet, the bare wire goes into the ground opening (which is top when viewing the installed outlet), the white wire goes in the neutral opening (opposite side of the ground opening, which is bottom when viewing the installed outlet). The red and black wires go into the left and right openings (doesn't matter which, they are both line). On the breaker, the red and black wires go into the breaker (again, it doesn't matter which opening), the bare wire goes to the ground bar on the left of the box, the white wire goes to the neutral bar on the right side of the box.
I’m not an electrician explanation is not clear where you put the right wire video is run too fast and it’s not clear explanation
Are you talking about the outlet connections? Looking at the outlet with the ground facing up, the top wire is bare (ground), the bottom wire is white (neutral) and the left or right are red and black. It doesn't matter if you put the red and black wires on the left or right side. They are both "hot".
@@MTNRanger thank you
How far I can run my 6/3 wife away from the panel box.
You can run a wire as long as you need it to go so that it’s in a good position. Check out my video in my garage setup to see:
ua-cam.com/video/Hh8cMAsknvA/v-deo.htmlm26s
Check with your local Electricians. There is voltage drop requirement in the NEC, BUT jurisdictions can change or adjust code.
The voltage drop is caused by the resistance in the wire. This means that the more current draw, the more voltage dropped.
Also, the longer the wire the more resistance to the wire.
And remember your charger should have voltage drop specification in the instructions.
…deenergize this box first.
Yes, I mentioned in the beginning to always turn off the electrical panel before working on it. I turned off the service line disconnect on the house that leads to the garage.
No No No
No wall charge plugs or module. Ceiling Install Pull rope down to the charge port Unplug and release the plug and cable to ceiling. So Never ever have a 240v plug / charger on a wall Clealing install the plug / cable with spring / bungee cord / rope weight with pull down ribbon for a pull-down plug / cable.
Thanks for the suggestion. Do you have a link for a good pull down? Is it flexible enough to charge a car in either parking spot and parked head in or reverse in?
OMG, that background music is so annoying and frustrating bro
Had to stop watching because of the wretch-inducing "music".
In the video description, there is a link to a version with no music.
So you buy a $50,000 car and can't put in a 48 amp wall connector, cheap and stupid. I installed my Tesla Wall Connector myself, easy, and faster charging speed.
Not everyone needs or wants the added expense or speed. Thanks for sharing your opinion.
48 amps doesn't make a difference if you are charging overnight anyways. Dumb.
I think this is smart ... it offers flexibility. If they sell the house, there's a universal outlet for a welder or any EV charger. You're not stuck with a hard wired Tesla-only charger... and they can take their charger with them.