I find it interesting that the manufacturers of the panels only want their breakers to be used but they all make the same 1” interchangeable breaker! That’s the beauty of SQ D QO series or Eaton CH series.
I put about 10 feet of 3/4 pvc on the south side of my house, without an expansion coupling, and the summer sun cooked it and it warped terribly. It looked so bad I took it off and buried it next to the foundation, which I should have done in the first place.
Very much appreciate your channel, I keep learning new methods, tools and connection devices. Wish you were around 40 years ago when I upgraded to 200A and rewired an 19th century elephant wood frame mansion in Elbaron with all BX. Now I do all internet and RF work where it is required to cut with a scissor the end of outdoor tape (Scotch 33). The thinking is when you pull tape to break it, the stretched part dangles and eventually the weather unfurls it and you have bare metal exposed. Thank you for these, and thank your assistant camera person and editor, that's hard work too.
I basically need this done at my place. Had water intrusion in my panel, plus I'd like to run a sub panel to the garage for more power in there and an EVSE. Awesome video as always.
its really like surgery working in a flush mount panel like that. Home owners and bosses wonder why something like this takes so long they just don't get it ahah. Nd best of all you had to kill some of their power to complete the job which stinks because you cant leave any customer without power so you got to finish the job. Anyways Ron I love who you walked us through this one and showed us some real tips and tricks. Thanks.
You used a 60A breaker, which will provide 48A charging. The ChargePoint HomeFlex is preset to 40A but can be reset to higher or lower. How did you reset it to 48A?
@@JosephGreenleaf Chargepoint comes with 20A max setting. Use the app to change to 48A charging. Also, the circuit breaker protects the conductors so charge at whatever setting you like.
An expansion coupling may not be required but the code is minimum requirements. Nice to see some folks still go above and beyond. Another great video. Love the channel, keep up the good work.
So good to see someone with honesty, integrity, and ability sharing their knowledge. I hope you have time to answer a question. Looking at install of Chargepoint in my unfinished garage (all equipment inside). With a 60amp breaker and hardwired, can I use 6/2 romex? Thank you Ron!
I think maybe you thought the video was getting too long so you cut out that part at the end where you joined the #6 wires together in the outside box. I would have been interested to see how that is done because I didn't quite recognize what you used to do that. It didn't look like a giant wirenut exactly, it had a plug on the end of it or something, I am assuming there was a screw that snugged down on the two wires and the whole thing is covered in vinyl? Anyway, that's a minor gripe lol. Great content, brother, thank you for the hard work you are putting into making it.
Do Arlington 3/4" button connectors exist? If so, that might have saved you the pain of dealing with threading a locknut in that far back corner knockout of the panel. Lot of dexterity, finesse, and knuckle scrapes dealing with those tight spaces. Super impressive long run of that PVC under the eave down the sides, and then the pulling the conductors with that motorized snake! Amazing!
As usual, love your work. This was a rather difficult install compared to most EVSE installs considering an additional sub panel needed placing. It does illustrate what a homeowner might face to convert to an electric car. But once you've done it once, you are good for the next 30 years! Here's two minor nuances (not required) that I did for this same brand charger. You may note the crimps on the cable side to the car. I bought a nice crimping tool that attaches hexagonal crimps on the end of the wires and applied them. This gave a nice solid wired to clamp to matching the manufacturing side. The only other thing I did was use an additional plastic trim ring on the end of the threaded conduit connector to make a smooth low abrasion surface for the large #6 AWG conductors. Just a bit of piece of mind against abrasion. Your work is just a favorite of mine!
The plastic bushing isn't required for conductors smaller than #6 copper. I dont even stock 3/4" plastic bushings but installing them isn't wrong, per say.
You truly are an expert at this! I'd hire you for some electrical work because that's not me lol.. when I finally get a Tesla, this is a great solution!
September was a busy month but mostly little jobs like changing out dimmers and changing out light fixtures. Plus I had some stuff with the IEC at the school to do and that's why I didn't have any videos to offer.
Great video! If the circuits being moved to the new sub-panel were long enough, any reason you couldn’t have the new panel right next to the main with a nipple connecting them or even splice in existing panel to extend to new through nipple?
Noticed you ran that conduit right next to what looks like some Coax(essentially low-volt) cable. Not to be a tight ass about it(most inspectors don't enforce it in residential), but in the future I'd take note that the NEC calls for HV wiring to be at least 6" away from low-voltage wiring that runs parallel more than 6'. I work in IT (though I had an appliance installer's license for working with HV battery systems which requires NEC knowledge and compliance), and I've had 2 clients, and one major ISP(a major claim) successfully claim against electricians because they ran new HV parallel to their LV networking cables. The clients' cases was a result of a power surge and inductive load(on a 60A sub circuit with lines ran parallel to a CAT6 cable) frying their outdoor POE security cameras(with the POE switch being adequately surge protected). The ISP case was due to a service conductor being ran parallel to a Coax, and a similar aforementioned surge killing equipment at the ISP vault.
Nice neat work, but I wonder how often chargers will have to be swapped out. They contain delicate electronics inside and the flexible cords might get damaged with use. And you know the next one will have different mounting holes, knockout locations, and terminal locations. For example, the install instructions for the Tesla Gen3 wall connector say to route the wires through the service loop channel on the right side of the unit no matter which entry point is used. So, that charger will need at least 1.5 feet or so of wire inside the unit if the instructions are followed. I know it monitors the heat at several locations - perhaps that is why they want so much wire inside. So, it might be worth keeping a bit more wire slack available than normal for EV Chargers.
Could you make a video showing how to make a proper slice with 6 gauge wire something like you did in this video . And thank you again for an amazing video
You can use the 75c column for feeders correct? Assuming the wire is not romex which is only allowed the lower temp rating, and the circuit breaker is rated at 75c as well. Say I was using SER cable for instance.
Unfortunately, with that small section of NM cable to the charger (EVSE), he should have used the 60C ampacity rating of the conductor (55 amps x .8 = 44 amps max continuous) and install a 50 amp breaker max. Code violation.
Love watching your installs Ron. Something I see guys do when installing the thicker gauge wire in tight spaces like that (especially the control panel guys), rather then kink the wire, is to coil the wires. Wire comes out of the conduit, does a 360deg loop over itself and lands on the terminal block. Less sideways pressure on the termination and looks elegant. It's something I use when terminating Datacom as we have minimum bend radius to consider and still need some slack to remove the jack plate when we're doing moves/adds/changes/repairs. Datacom guy so I work alongside sparkies, pick up a few tips now and then.
@@miltonaldridge4170 then call an electrician. The circuit breaker ALWAYS protects the circuit conductors and I have no idea if your conductors are rated for 60 amps or not.
You know better than me but have a question about conduit. Would it be faster and better to use NM rain tight flexible pvc conduit. One long run vs glueing 10’ sticks together. Thanks for providing top notch professional info.
By using the 6/2 romex at the beginning... didn't he limit the circuit to 40a ev charging? If you wanted a 60 amp breaker, you'd need to do conduit/THHN to the breaker box right? That would give you 48a ev charging
People don't realize the 3-4 hrs mobilization for these small jobs. PU mat, est, etc plus the time on the job. For every 40 hrs, I'm at the supply house 4 - 6 hrs.
Putting the clamp right at the expansion coupling near the meter does not allow the pipe that is exposed to move, should have left a couple of inches then clamped. Great learning video! I worked at a plating facility and everything was done in pvc.
I am not saying the coupling isn’t installed correctly, it is the fact that with the clamp at the top part of the coupling the expansion can only move in one direction. I am very familiar with expansion couplings and installing them on pipe runs in the sun. If you are happy so am I! LOL
I just did a charge point today. I like them other than I really don't like those snap wago type connectors they have. They seem chincey and you don't really know if connection is tight either. Dang, can't believe you have to use expansion sleeves all over there in jersey. Were just SEU/SER here in midwest don't need conduit unless spec'd
It is so nice to see a man care about the looks of the job and doing the job to code
Thank you very much. It's called integrity.
I find it interesting that the manufacturers of the panels only want their breakers to be used but they all make the same 1” interchangeable breaker! That’s the beauty of SQ D QO series or Eaton CH series.
Well done----thank you---I'm a 71yr old wire twister and you grunt as much as me!!!
19:10🤣🤣🤣🤣 …Love your work and videos
Can you imagine that pull by hand with out the Milwaukee fish tape!! good work!
Thanks 👍
I love the fact you did not edit out your mistake. Freakin AWESOME!!!
Sh** happens in the field
I put about 10 feet of 3/4 pvc on the south side of my house, without an expansion coupling, and the summer sun cooked it and it warped terribly. It looked so bad I took it off and buried it next to the foundation, which I should have done in the first place.
You’re an awesome electrician. I see the pride in your work.
Woo hoo! Ron’s back! 👍👍 That’s one sweet powered fish tape!
Oh yeah!
I'm an electrician/hvac apprentice and your videos are a valuable resource for me! Thank you so much!
That's fantastic to hear. I'm an instructor here in New Jersey at the IEC Apprenticeship program in Somerset, NJ.
Nice work, Ron!
Very much appreciate your channel, I keep learning new methods, tools and connection devices. Wish you were around 40 years ago when I upgraded to 200A and rewired an 19th century elephant wood frame mansion in Elbaron with all BX. Now I do all internet and RF work where it is required to cut with a scissor the end of outdoor tape (Scotch 33). The thinking is when you pull tape to break it, the stretched part dangles and eventually the weather unfurls it and you have bare metal exposed. Thank you for these, and thank your assistant camera person and editor, that's hard work too.
I basically need this done at my place. Had water intrusion in my panel, plus I'd like to run a sub panel to the garage for more power in there and an EVSE. Awesome video as always.
its really like surgery working in a flush mount panel like that. Home owners and bosses wonder why something like this takes so long they just don't get it ahah. Nd best of all you had to kill some of their power to complete the job which stinks because you cant leave any customer without power so you got to finish the job. Anyways Ron I love who you walked us through this one and showed us some real tips and tricks.
Thanks.
Ron nicely planned and executed, I like your solution and using a main lug panel.
Thanks! I thought the 20-circuit MLO provided value as well.
Awesome vid Ron! Hi from a 3rd year apprentice in Canada 😊
Gotta love a clean install! 👌
Ron...living the program...
You used a 60A breaker, which will provide 48A charging. The ChargePoint HomeFlex is preset to 40A but can be reset to higher or lower. How did you reset it to 48A?
@@JosephGreenleaf Chargepoint comes with 20A max setting. Use the app to change to 48A charging. Also, the circuit breaker protects the conductors so charge at whatever setting you like.
Driver app or installer app?
An expansion coupling may not be required but the code is minimum requirements. Nice to see some folks still go above and beyond. Another great video. Love the channel, keep up the good work.
So good to see someone with honesty, integrity, and ability sharing their knowledge. I hope you have time to answer a question.
Looking at install of Chargepoint in my unfinished garage (all equipment inside). With a 60amp breaker and hardwired, can I use 6/2 romex?
Thank you Ron!
One long run for sure. Thanks.
I think maybe you thought the video was getting too long so you cut out that part at the end where you joined the #6 wires together in the outside box. I would have been interested to see how that is done because I didn't quite recognize what you used to do that. It didn't look like a giant wirenut exactly, it had a plug on the end of it or something, I am assuming there was a screw that snugged down on the two wires and the whole thing is covered in vinyl? Anyway, that's a minor gripe lol. Great content, brother, thank you for the hard work you are putting into making it.
He reached for this allen wrenches so I'm sure it was a double ended spice connected.
He used what are called Polaris taps work very well for bigger conductors
Do Arlington 3/4" button connectors exist? If so, that might have saved you the pain of dealing with threading a locknut in that far back corner knockout of the panel. Lot of dexterity, finesse, and knuckle scrapes dealing with those tight spaces. Super impressive long run of that PVC under the eave down the sides, and then the pulling the conductors with that motorized snake! Amazing!
They do exist and I turned my van upside down looking for one but didn't have any. FML.
@@Ampacityelectric One-inch sizes, even. Thanks!
As usual, love your work. This was a rather difficult install compared to most EVSE installs considering an additional sub panel needed placing. It does illustrate what a homeowner might face to convert to an electric car. But once you've done it once, you are good for the next 30 years! Here's two minor nuances (not required) that I did for this same brand charger. You may note the crimps on the cable side to the car. I bought a nice crimping tool that attaches hexagonal crimps on the end of the wires and applied them. This gave a nice solid wired to clamp to matching the manufacturing side. The only other thing I did was use an additional plastic trim ring on the end of the threaded conduit connector to make a smooth low abrasion surface for the large #6 AWG conductors. Just a bit of piece of mind against abrasion. Your work is just a favorite of mine!
The plastic bushing isn't required for conductors smaller than #6 copper. I dont even stock 3/4" plastic bushings but installing them isn't wrong, per say.
Nice job. Love the pliers
Thanks Gary!
You truly are an expert at this! I'd hire you for some electrical work because that's not me lol.. when I finally get a Tesla, this is a great solution!
You're the guy who did that Sopranos filming locations video I was watching yesterday!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey haha yes!! I need to go back to Holsten!
Hey Ron Welcome back!!
Great job as always bro!
September was a busy month but mostly little jobs like changing out dimmers and changing out light fixtures. Plus I had some stuff with the IEC at the school to do and that's why I didn't have any videos to offer.
Good to see you are back Ron, you ready for some Hockey?
Yes! We just got tickets for the Winter Classic at Jetlife Stadium in February 24!
Was there a better spot for that sub panel
Great video! If the circuits being moved to the new sub-panel were long enough, any reason you couldn’t have the new panel right next to the main with a nipple connecting them or even splice in existing panel to extend to new through nipple?
could you have run cable in dropped ceiling instead of outside
Great Job RON
Good job Ron.
Fantastic job, like always 😊
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Lucky SOB, it hurts me to watch how easy that subpanel was for romex guys. Chicagoland area: all pipe/mc everything
is original panel behind wall
Great work ethic Ron, Keep up the Good work. I enjoy the videos.
Thanks 👍
You, Sir, do excellent work
Awesome video Ron!
Hi how are you .. I have a question where did you buy your headlight..? And which brand is it…?
Nice install Ron thumbs up *Cheers*
Right on
Noce job Ron. Keep up the great content
Thanks Matt!
Does the addition of the sub panel trigger the 2020 Code requirement for a whole house surge protector?
Negative. Although an SPD is always a great idea, especially so when charging an EV at home.
I’m surprised you put the sun panel underneath that window and not more off to the side of it
Great video Ron! What size conductor did you run from the panel to the charging station? Was that #4?
@@AchFam #6 AWG copper.
He talked about installing a 60 amp breaker and 6AWG having an ampacity of 55 amps in the 60 degree C column.
Noticed you ran that conduit right next to what looks like some Coax(essentially low-volt) cable.
Not to be a tight ass about it(most inspectors don't enforce it in residential), but in the future I'd take note that the NEC calls for HV wiring to be at least 6" away from low-voltage wiring that runs parallel more than 6'.
I work in IT (though I had an appliance installer's license for working with HV battery systems which requires NEC knowledge and compliance), and I've had 2 clients, and one major ISP(a major claim) successfully claim against electricians because they ran new HV parallel to their LV networking cables.
The clients' cases was a result of a power surge and inductive load(on a 60A sub circuit with lines ran parallel to a CAT6 cable) frying their outdoor POE security cameras(with the POE switch being adequately surge protected).
The ISP case was due to a service conductor being ran parallel to a Coax, and a similar aforementioned surge killing equipment at the ISP vault.
Cool!
Nice neat work, but I wonder how often chargers will have to be swapped out. They contain delicate electronics inside and the flexible cords might get damaged with use. And you know the next one will have different mounting holes, knockout locations, and terminal locations.
For example, the install instructions for the Tesla Gen3 wall connector say to route the wires through the service loop channel on the right side of the unit no matter which entry point is used. So, that charger will need at least 1.5 feet or so of wire inside the unit if the instructions are followed. I know it monitors the heat at several locations - perhaps that is why they want so much wire inside.
So, it might be worth keeping a bit more wire slack available than normal for EV Chargers.
Could you make a video showing how to make a proper slice with 6 gauge wire something like you did in this video . And thank you again for an amazing video
@@Ampacityelectric thank you for sharing the information
He used a Polaris splice, its has lug ends on both side. He just wraps it up with electrical tape after.
Another great video.
I appreciate that
Excellent Videos. I know you do not like GE. What is your Go-to Load centers/Breakers?
Thank you Lonz. My go-to is Cutler-Hammer BR.
Great work!!!!
Thanks Dan!
You can use the 75c column for feeders correct? Assuming the wire is not romex which is only allowed the lower temp rating, and the circuit breaker is rated at 75c as well. Say I was using SER cable for instance.
And more than 100 amps.
Unfortunately, with that small section of NM cable to the charger (EVSE), he should have used the 60C ampacity rating of the conductor (55 amps x .8 = 44 amps max continuous) and install a 50 amp breaker max. Code violation.
If there is a drop ceiling then why not run the wire in the ceiling for the car charger
Good question! Because there's a finished hallway and bathroom between the basement ceiling and the garage, which is also finished.
Man, I Love the videos!
Thank you, it really means a lot.
I see you’re using the Milwaukee M18 fishing tape. What’s your thoughts on that tool? Worth the purchase?
What did you use to splice the 6 gauge wire in the box? You cut that part out :(.
Polaris connectors. It’s in the video.
Love watching your installs Ron. Something I see guys do when installing the thicker gauge wire in tight spaces like that (especially the control panel guys), rather then kink the wire, is to coil the wires. Wire comes out of the conduit, does a 360deg loop over itself and lands on the terminal block. Less sideways pressure on the termination and looks elegant. It's something I use when terminating Datacom as we have minimum bend radius to consider and still need some slack to remove the jack plate when we're doing moves/adds/changes/repairs. Datacom guy so I work alongside sparkies, pick up a few tips now and then.
Did they make you do a load calculation for the house for the EV charger permit?
Some towns do.
Did you end up using expansion couplings for the pvc run?
Of course.
What did you use to splice the romex to the Thhn
@@ronaldnaeyaert3653 either a wire connector or a Wago.
Прекрасная работа👍😎 качество и мастерство вызывают огромное уважение. Спасибо, что показываете и рассказываете нам.
What was the calculated voltage drop ?
This was less than 100’ run. I don’t even entertain voltage drop calculations until 200’.
Something to speak about is the watch that you have on .
G Shock
You can always tell the work of a hack handyman just by how they run the wires into the box with without cutting back the wire sheathing….
so i can slap a 60 amp breaker on my existing 14-50 receptacle.
You can do whatever you want.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey are you sure? i dont wanna get zapped dead lol
@@miltonaldridge4170 then call an electrician. The circuit breaker ALWAYS protects the circuit conductors and I have no idea if your conductors are rated for 60 amps or not.
thought you can't put box under window.
Says who?
new Hampshire electrical inspector Manchester nh@@electricianron_New_Jersey
love your videoes
You are a patriot, thanks!
You're welcome!
You know better than me but have a question about conduit. Would it be faster and better to use NM rain tight flexible pvc conduit. One long run vs glueing 10’ sticks together. Thanks for providing top notch professional info.
The flex PVC will be more difficult to fish conductors through.
It would look terrible because it is not stiff enough to lay straight. It would be as crooked as a snake.
Been waiting!
By using the 6/2 romex at the beginning... didn't he limit the circuit to 40a ev charging? If you wanted a 60 amp breaker, you'd need to do conduit/THHN to the breaker box right? That would give you 48a ev charging
NJ allows the 6/2 NM
Did you run it as one whole wire if you did that’s a pain in the ass
The whole job can be a pain in the ass. That's why it's called "work"!
I’m probably going to run a 12 to 2 and outdoor shed in nj going to keep it a hole running through the conduit
**3 rules for success**
#1 show up on time
#2 do what you say you're going to do
#3 clean up
It's a big tent but these three things are key!
Dont know but klein magnetic fisher would mite been quicker and easier to fish those wires down the wall! But nice work!
I have that Klein magnet fish tool and sits in the box unopened for at least a year now.
People don't realize the 3-4 hrs mobilization for these small jobs. PU mat, est, etc plus the time on the job. For every 40 hrs, I'm at the supply house 4 - 6 hrs.
@@Ampacityelectric Pick Up Materials --- PU Mat I appreciate your thoughts Steve in NC
You know you have a real electrician when he uses lineman’s to strip his wires instead of wire strippers.
Look closely because the lineman’s pliers I’m using have the strippers built right into the pliers.
Putting the clamp right at the expansion coupling near the meter does not allow the pipe that is exposed to move, should have left a couple of inches then clamped. Great learning video! I worked at a plating facility and everything was done in pvc.
You might not be familiar with an extension couplings because it is installed correctly.
I am not saying the coupling isn’t installed correctly, it is the fact that with the clamp at the top part of the coupling the expansion can only move in one direction. I am very familiar with expansion couplings and installing them on pipe runs in the sun. If you are happy so am I! LOL
@@Ampacityelectric PVC straps break over time. Unfortunately they’re terrible.
Good do job but it's just another charging unit to take down the grid.
I think your description of yourself having "sausage fingers" is unfair as they appear to more accurately resemble some city fire hydrants. 😇🤣
It's amazing because some days the hardest task of the day is attaching locknuts to connectors.
Typical 40 ckt panel 39 do nothing and one shuts the whole house down more than likely! Lol
I just did a charge point today. I like them other than I really don't like those snap wago type connectors they have. They seem chincey and you don't really know if connection is tight either. Dang, can't believe you have to use expansion sleeves all over there in jersey. Were just SEU/SER here in midwest don't need conduit unless spec'd