Watch THIS before Selecting your EV Charger Circuit Breaker Size DIY
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2024
- This video shows you how to select the correct circuit breaker size for your EV charger 240v circuit.
This is information NO ONE is telling you.
FAQ
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1. MY UTILITY PROVIDES 24HR OR MONTHLY DATA, COULD I USE THIS?
24hr or monthly data sets are not helpful and should not be used, as it averages down maximum demand. Reach out to your utility provider and request 15min.
2. WHAT IF MY UTILITY PROVIDER CANNOT PROVIDE 15 MIN DATA?
Reach out to your provider and request 12 months worth of monthly maximum demand (units = kilowatts). Some utility providers might not provide this to residential customers, but it is FREE to ask for it.
3. I JUST MOVED INTO MY HOME AND I DONT HAVE 12 MONTHS WORTH OF DATA.
The electrical code requires 12 months worth a data to do a proper analysis. Analysis cannot be performed with limited or no data. Here some options: 1) Contact your local certified electrician and he/she will make an assessment and judgment call based on existing conditions.
2) A DCC-12 device is available (link here: dccelectric.com/dcc-12 ). This is a 3rd party electrical meter/control unit that prevents your EV charger from overloading your electrical panel. Contact your local electrician for additional guidance.
4. AN EV CHARGER REQUIRES 2 EMPTY SLOTS INSIDE YOUR ELECTRICAL PANEL, MY PANEL DOESNT HAVE ENOUGH SPACE.
An electrical panel upgrade can be expensive. DCC-9 can be a solution for you, link here: dccelectric.com/dcc-9 Contact your local electrician for additional guidance.
5. WHAT SIZE WIRE SHOULD I USE FOR MY CIRCUIT?
The larger the breaker the larger the wire required.
Refer to my other video here: • How to install Tesla W... @ 1:38 for recommended MINIMUM wire sizes.
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WARNING DISCLAIMER
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Working with electricity is dangerous! It can cause severe
injury and cause damage to property. When in doubt,
always hire a professional.
This content is for entertainment purposes only.
EV CHARGERS TO CONSIDER
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Tesla J1772 Wall Connector Black (this unit has the Universal J1772 Plug)
amzn.to/3MhNxGq
ChargePoint 50Amp Nema 14-50 Plug (this unit has the Universal J1772 Plug)
amzn.to/3nOhFQm
I recommend the Black Tesla J1772 Wall Connector to everyone for 2 Reasons.
1) This unit's wire terminal accepts #4 gauge copper wire. All other non-tesla chargers (ChargePoint,Clipper Creek, etc.) take #6 gauge maximum.
2) The unit has the universal plug J1772 which will charge ANY electric car. This is great especially if you sell or rent out your home. Tesla owners have to use the adapter, which is included with the car.
This page contains affiliate links. If you choose to purchase after clicking a link, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. I appreciate you supporting the channel.
TIMESTAMPS
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0:00 - Introduction
1:10 - Residential Electrical Service (USA)
1:30 - Utility Meter
1:55 - Electrical Panel
3:58 - Math Equation
4:37 - Full Load Current
5:39 - Existing Maximum Demand
8:05 - Crunch Numbers
8:30 - Service Wires
10:13 - Summary
#Tesla #EV #justdoityourself
KEYWORDS
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These are details no one else is sharing. And in a very clear way. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
There are a lot of crappy ev charger install videos…. Thank you for giving me some real information! This is extremely helpful
I'm a 7 year guy. Thank you. I'm putting this all together. Hell yeah. I take the classes but still like videos like this to connect the picture.
Great video love that you broke down the formulas so clearly. Thanks
Best video I've seen on this subject. As an avid DIYer I know the basics but the detail you go into in this video is exceptional, thanks my friend!
Thanks a lot for the info. I follow your way to calculate the new load and the inspection of my EV charge installation was just passed today.
This is the most informational and helpful video that I watched in preparation for the EV charge install. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Best description I have ever encounter. Thank you!
Excellent video. I did this. I downloaded the last 13 mos electrical power usage for our home from DTE Energy here in Southeast Michigan. It gave maximum demand by the hour in an MS Excel compatible spreadsheet form. I used the "max" function and found the maximum kWh level of usage covering over 9600 hourly readings. I then divided by 240 and multiplied by 1000. The answer was 44.1 amps. So, speeding ahead, the inequality is met for the amperage levels under my consideration. Thank you!
This is the best math and highly educational video I have seen when it comes to EV charging.
Keep posting content. This video was incredibly informative and easily digestible. Keep it up
Awesome description. Thank you very much!
Super helpful. When putting in the new circuit, I wanted it to be capable of the highest possible draw to be as future proof as I could make it. But when selecting an EVSE you don't necessarily need one that can draw the absolute maximum the circuit can handle. I figured out that a 32 amp EVSE was going to easily handle everything I need, 99.9% of the time. So I got a slightly smaller EVSE, which does three things, all good for me: (1) it was a bit cheaper to buy initially, (2) the car charges at a marginally slower rate which is good for the batteries; and (3) the wires in the wall, the plug, etc. are all running a solid notch below what they are theoretically capable of handling, which just creates some additional margin of safety. Code is the minimum requirement you need to meet, but there is nothing wrong with pulling 32 amps through a circuit that is theoretically capable of handling 40 or 48. It is basically the same idea as plugging a 60watt lamp into a standard household outlet that can handle up to 1,800 watts. Most people who haven't lived with an EV don't understand that you plug it in when you get home in the evening and then you really don't much care how long it takes to charge as long as it is ready to go by early the next AM. Fast charging is rarely important at home, you really only care about that when you are on a longer trip and you have to top off the battery to continue the journey.
Yes, indeed. I'm trying to install an EV charging outlet in my garage. What I'm trying to figure out is: is it even worth the extra cost to buy a 240V/60A outlet and breaker as well as more copper if I will most likely charge at 24 or 32A? I might be paying an additional $100 or so for something that I will never use.
@@ledzeppelin1212 I think that depends on how long you plan to be in your current house more than anything. Batteries and charging rates are only going to get better. I decided to future proof because I may be in the house for another decade. If I knew I was moving in three years I might have done things differently. I would say you have to be confident there is a 0% chance you will need higher charging rate because plug and wire are cheap compared to the cost of the electrician. You definitely do not want to pay to have it all ripped out and replaced in five years.
Great video and clear. I’m not an electrician but I admire the craft. Lots of physics involved.
That was seriously a well done, well taught video. Thanks, friend. :)
Excellent, concise, and extremely valuable - thank you!
strangely my usage was nearly identical as yours over the 1 year readout. so this was fairly easy for me thanks.
This was great, My utility happens to use the same data collection as yours, so It was easy to download, mine reads in 1 hour blocks not 15 minutes, so the Kwh/Kw conversion was pretty simple,
I use that Emeryville Supercharger! Good job!
Awesome video! For those who don’t heed the safety warnings, good luck!
perfect timing. i am going to be having my installed in the next month or so. Now I can tell if the person I hire knows how to do it safely
Super helpful, thank you! My local utility wouldn’t let me download a years worth of data all at once, I had to do it one month at a time. I have a 200Amp panel and found that my typical monthly usage peaked around the mid 30s to low 40s in amps, but then found one day, where for about 4 hours, our usage peaked at 66Amps, which when I looked it up turned out to be a large social gathering we hosted at our house. Now I know, which is awesome! Before this I was thinking I would need to get a 14-50 outlet, but now I know my panel can support the 60Amp wall charger. Very cool!
Stick with the 14-50. My wife's 2016 model X can only charge at 40 amps anyhow, and my new model 3 only 32 amps. The 14-50 plug and cable can handle that and is cheaper than the permanent EVSE, which won't let you charge any faster anyhow. I could only fit a 30 amp breaker in my panel anyhow so I charge at 27 amps and it still charges in only a few hours. As long as it's ready by morning, who cares about charging faster, even if it is possible.
@@phillipsusi1791 I ended up going with the 60 amp circuit and the Tesla wall charger, I can charge at 48 amps, or roughly 44 miles of range per hour.
@@JethroXP Ahh, apparently all but the M3RWD are now capable of taking 48 amps, but with no option for the dual charger to get the higher capacity like there used to be.
I truely appriciate your presentation. Thank You!
Glad it was helpful!
This video was great and very informative. I was wondering if you could walk through your design process for dc fast charging, how you size breakers, transformers, etc. My company is starting an eMobility division, and I’m trying to understand how the electrical side of dcfc works
Great video, very informative and I realize I don't have to replace my current electrical panel.
FANTASTIC and helpful video. I've searched a long time for someone to explain how selecting a breaker works, specifically for EV. You make it very clear. I have experience adding an electrical sub-meter and am not afraid of electricity, however understanding the calculations is something I didn't want to screw around with. Thank you!
Agreed. This is a wonderfully helpful vid!
You guys need to read the rest of the comments. He’s not correct on a lot of things, and he’s not a electrican…
Very practical info. Thanks!
This is exactly knowledge that I am looking for, keep up good work!
Glad it was helpful!
Man ! this is one of the best and simple explanations have ever seen . awesome job and thanks !!
That is some really good presentation really appreciate the work that you are doing here you've earned a new subscriber can't wait for any new piece of content that you produce
I appreciate your nice comment Erick, thank you
Great information and presentation thank you for sharing this important information
I'm a new sub, impressed with your Tesla experience. Do you know if they are going back with solar on all of the superchargers?
This was the most informative video I have seen in a long long time, thank you
I appreciate the comment Steve--thank you
Thank you for building the best ev charging network in the entire world !
Very well organized and presented.
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
Great and easy to follow info!
Thank you for this well done and very informative video ( frankly the best I have seen). At the beginning you mentioned that you might do another segment evaluating sub panels. I would love that. My attached garage has a 125v subpanel on a 125 breaker from the main panel ( main panel is good with 2/0 aluminum cable to the meter on a 150 amp service) with a 2awg XHHW aluminum tray cable ( thank you for discussing the direct inspection of the leads) to the sub panel . I think it is somewhat under rated , but even so I would like to know how you put sub panels in the equation. Many thanks again.
thanks DG. you helped a lot of people, made the knowledge simple, and most importantly hire a professional.!
Very helpful - thank you!
Great Video. Thank you.
Excellent video & very helpful - 1 question. I have 2 200 amp main panels , if I download data from electric company it would be the max load between both the panels right ? Is there a way of calculating for individual panel ?
Having been Nan avid UA-cam DIY video watcher since the inception of YT, I must say that this video has been the MOST comprehensive video I have seen - a sincere and big THNAK YOU for that and keep up the great work.
I have a question. As far as I gather, Tesla plug does not use the neutral wire (as your wall charger wiring indicated) - so, what is the purpose of having a aneutral wire in 14-50 plug wiring?
Thnaks again!
good job very informative
Very helpful, thank a lots
Amazing explanation thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video. if anyone is handy enough and follow the code and watching so many videos here, it can be done very easily. This is NOT for all to install. Having said that, if you already installing one, go for the max AMPS you can considering your current panel max in. Moreover, I would avoid using plugs/outlet, if possible. These 2 things are a weak link and can cause many issues. After all, heavy AMPS are running for hours via these lines and they generate heat. HARDWIRED is the way to go.
My breaker box was able to supply the 2 60 amp breakers I used a pair tandem slim breakers as all the slots were occupied. One tandem has the original circuits, the other handles the charger. Amperage used during charging can be controlled through the Tesla app. It is more efficient to charge at a lower current. A lot of heat is dissipated into the air at high current. When I do need to charge at a faster rate I have the option to do so.
Can you cover the subpanel install and install when you have a Solar Panel subpanel installation soon? Thank you. :)
Great Presentation. I wish PG&E here ( San Ramon, contra costa , CA ) had provided a way to download my uses data . Without this , I won't be able to benefit from this excellent information that you shared. So I guess, I have to stay with the conventional approach of doing the load calculation based on lighting load , fixed appliances nameplate rating etc etc.
You alluded to doing another video for the use-case of adding the charger to a sub panel and I have a question for this situation for now, while I wait for that video to come up.
My load calculation for the whole house shows enough capacity to add 48 amp charger load on a 60 amp OCPD. But the feed from the 200 amp main panel is evenly split into garage sub panel and AC load sub panel, each protected by 100 amp OCPD at the main panel. I am told that I have to do a 2nd load calculation on the sub panel circuit with incoming service limited to 100 amp only. Is this correct ? If yes, I have less capacity to play with for sizing charger load .
In my case, I am planning to add charger load to AC sub panel , which is serving two 5-ton AC units only on a 70 amp OCPD. The load calculation ( treating AC as continuous load device and taking 100% of nameplate rating for RLA of condenser / FLA of motor ) for these ACs comes to 66 amps. This leaves 34 amps extra capacity only. With this capacity, am I ok to install a 40 amp OCPD on the AC sub panel for the charger circuit and configure hardwired Tesla wall charger for 32 amp charging , following the 25% demand factor rule applied to largest motor load in the group ?
This is some detailed information is there any way I can share some charging plans with to
Get your opinion??
Great Video, Now i am ready to be my own Electrician :-) (Kidding) the content of this video is so clear, that now i can make sure the electrician i will hire knows his stuff
Glad it helped!
Great video! What would be the cost to install the wall connector by professional.
My main electrical panel and garage are on the opposite end of the house :(
Excellent review of how to assess your home demand for installing an EV charger. There is, however, one more piece which is not covered in this overview, which is what size wire you need to install to the charger. I purchased and installed some 8 guage romex wire thinking that it could handle 50 amps, but apparently only thhn 8 guage wire can handle 50 amps, but 8 guage romex wire is only capable of 40 amps. Thus, I presume that I can use that 8 guage romex wire with a 50 amp circuit breaker and limit the charger to 40 amps. If I knew this in advance, I would have installed 6 guage romex wire instead, but running new wire is challenging so I will start with this wire I ran and consider changing it out if I find I would want more capacity later on.
I agree. I should have covered wire size; I didn't in this video but I cover it in 2 other videos. Regarding your wire install
Here's my minimum wire size design guide:
(COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG)
30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground
40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground
50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground
60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground
For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.
This is a professional explanation. the other EV charger Installation guide are all BS
Great video. So if I have a 200A service, does this mean I can pull 200A continuous? Or only 160A continuous? Building a new house with 5 EVs to charge on 200A service. So there will be some dynamic sharing going on. Tesla HPWC (Gen3) should allow me to program this to keep all my NACS and CCS vehicles happy.
NEC 220.82(B) and (C) has the detail how to calculate dwelling unit service load. Use 240V * rating of the panel and subtract the existing VA, that is the Max volt-ampere in remaining, take this number divide 240V or 120V depending either 2 pole or single pole breaker, now you have the Max current you can have from existing panel.
Thank You!!
Ty for info
Well done!!!
Great video! Excellent job in explaining how the actual calculations are performed. Any plans on doing the video to feed from a sub-panel? I've got a 200amp main panel with two 60amp sub-panels and was curious to know how the math works out to figure if I can install a 48amp car charger in one of my sub-panels. Thanks and keep up the good work!!
A 60 amp sub panel by code can not supply a continuous load more then 80%. So a 48 amp continuous load ( anything that runs more then 3 hours ) would need 60 amps and while an EV was on you should not have any other loads on. Suggest that you have an electrician either increase the 60 amp sub panel to 100 amps or runs dedicated 240 volt line to the charger.
Thanks for the input; will get an electrician to see what my best option is.
@@garbo8962 Thanks for the input; will get an electrician to see what my best option is.
48A charge setting on a 60amp sub panel wont work. From a cost perspective, it may be worth looking into a 30A or 40A circuit installed at the subpanel (assuming your electrician deems it safe to do so). Installing a dedicated 60A circuit from your main panel might not be worth the additional cost. Curious to know what quotes your electrician comes back with.
Awesome video! Extremely informative -- can now talk to the electrician with a bit more knowledge.
Great to hear!
Since you worked for Tesla doing the stations. How hard would it be to build one in Rosarito, Mx
this is an awesome video
please considering making a higher quality and more engaging one, i am pretty sure you will get lots of views ! :)
Excellent video. I looked at my last two years data. I found that I had "one" hour where the usage reach 10.7 kWh. All other entries are showing Max around 7.5 KWH. My panel is a 100 AMP. it means that I cannot use a 60AMP breaker (because of this one entry) and I have to go down to 50 AMP. Correct?
What about the transformer up stream of the meter? It seems to me that can be another limiting factor. I have a home that has two 200A panels, one for the house and another for some out-buildings. Service wires to both panels are 4/0. But the pad mounted transformer feeding it all is only rated for 25 kVA, which is only 104A at 240V.
Excellent video. 👍🏽 Hopefully people follow these guidelines your dead on!
Good advice to use data of actual energy use. The traditional "Load Calculations" are just an informed guess and will always vary from reality to some degree or other.
Our Landis+Gyr meter shows max energy in kW averaged over 15 mins. With this info I see our max amperage was 78 amps, so we are well within our 200 amp service. I did a load calculation and it estimated we are at 102% of the service when in reality it's half of that.
15 min metering data is the most accurate--couldn't agree more.
Many thanks. Very helpful. This will provide peace of mind for a DIY'er. After searching NGRID online account informationI I called and they have assigned a "ticket" for the requested information. We'll see how that goes... I have a 100 amp service which includes 40 amps going out to a detached garage. I'm hoping I have the capacity to use 20 amps for an EV charger as this would be the least "obtrusive" solution to the existingn service while still meeting my low mileage requirements. Question: My plan is to install an industrial grade 20a/240v Hubbell outlet with a 20a double pole GFCI breaker on an existing 12 AWG dedicated line. Should I consider replacing the 12 AWG wire with #12 THHN set of wires instead?
Good choice on Hubbell. They make good stuff. Regarding existing wires, perform a visual inspection and confirm there is no damage/cracking on the insulation. If everything checks out, #12 copper is sufficient for a 20A dedicated circuit and you may avoid replacing the circuit. If this is for your charger, remember the breaker shall NOT be GFCI. Most, if not all EV chargers have GFCI function built in to the charger itself. Thanks for subscribing.
Thanks. I’ve been looking something like this. Of course a new ChargePoint Flex will go up to 50 amps. Which means it should be using 62.5 amp breaker. So I wonder if it’s better to go with a slightly undersized 60 amp or slightly oversized 65 amp breaker.
Oversized. But also check, many chargers will list breaker size, so the 50A listing will actually be a 40A draw. Basically they already derate the power draw from the breaker needed to support their nameplate power rating.
Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for. I’m a new C10 here in CA, and will be installing these EV Chargers but not sure what the county inspector is going to require or how they go about calculating since usually all things are not on at the same time. This is my first time hearing about determining Max Demand. So I would need to tell my customers to pull this data up off their PG&E bill for the past 12 months? Have you heard of the DCC load sharing device for EV Chargers? It senses when loads reach 80% and then turns off the EV Charger... comes back on when loads have been below 80% for 15 minutes.
Congrats on the C10 license Matt! Not heard of the DCC device, but that unit basically computes the math for you and shuts down the charger if it reaches the limit of the panel---like you said.
Side Note and an idea that just came to mind: for all the customers that do not supply 12 months of historical data you can install a DCC. For all customers that do provide data, you can easily compute the load and determine max size breaker to use--saving your customers $600 along the way--I'm sure they would appreciate that! You'll have to check for specific requirements for the cities you work in, they are all different and have different requirements. Cheers.
Based on NEC 110.14(C)(1)(a), what is your determination of the Tesla Wall Connector terminal temperature rating?
I am currently running into this. I have a NEMA 50 plug and since the plug is only rated for 50amps I will pair it with a 50amp breaker. If I got with a mounted charger I will no doubt go with wire that supports a much larger amount. I also have the main panel on the rear of my house next to my pedestal but it is simply an on off type situation. It goes inside to a 200amp breaker panel which then feeds a 60amp panel in my garage. I will be changing out the panel on the rear of the house with a panel with two 200amp breakers as my meter is rated for 320/400. I just need to make sure the wire in my meter base going to the box can handle that. Not a big deal. I can technically pull the meter if I need to cut off the power to that. I have been told by the power company tech that corporate will frown upon it but as long as I am not tampering with anything it isnt a problem for me to call them and have someone put a new lock on it. IE this happens here frequently when people break into places they pull the meter. I need to look at the disconnect box again because I might be able to just use that and then wire a panel into that. I just need to look at it again.
This is a great presentation and easy to follow math.
Question. When you show your data, why do you divide by 240V instead of 120V - although your new circuit/breaker will be on 240V, presumably all of your existing equipment is running on 120V right?
Great question. Most equipment is running on 120v in the US; however, the data provided by the utility is in terms of the phase to phase voltage of the system. In the US for residential homes, the phase to phase voltage is 240volts so we divide by 240.
Great video! What do you do if you can only get hourly data from your power company? Also I was not able to find your video on hooking up an EV charger to a subpanel can you let me know where to find it?
So I had the same thought as I was going through comments. I took my KWh and divided it by .60 (1hr) of time and was able to come up with my amperage. I hope that is accurate. If I am wrong OP please let me know
Awesome video! One question: So for the 60 amps should I get a 30+30 double pole breakers, or do I have to get a single pole that is rated for 60 amps?
NVM, it's mentioned here 5:01 that I need a double pole
Thank you Karl. So assuming your electrical panel can handle an additional 60A breaker, for a EV circuit you'll need a two pole 60A breaker. You'll need to identify your panel manufacturer (General Electric, square D, Eaton, etc.) in order to purchase the correct breaker. I provide additional insight in this video: ua-cam.com/video/DxkICxKUo-A/v-deo.html
Hi, I echo with others that this is a GREAT presentation/video to understand the load and what is possible. This is the most crucial point to ensure safety (first!). So, a HUGE thank you for posting this. I have watched many videos on how to install an extra 220V outlet - and no one (so far) did not have this information as clearly as you presented. I do have a question - your utility company provided you with 15 minute reading data, which you used to calculate the max load. However, my company is giving me one day data. It ranges from around 20 to 40, but has some spikes in some days. The max (of one and half year data for one day) is 210. Does this seem right and can I use your formula with one day load? Thanks!
thank you for the kind comments. Regarding your utility data, I need more information. Are you able to email the data to me? I can look into further and potentially make another video if needed. the.original.dgo@gmail.com
Great Video. Absolutely loved it. I just have one question, in your formula you used max demand x 1.25 and FLA to check against the service size. Shouldn’t it be (max demand+FLA)x1.25? You add all the max current demand existing+new device and then apply breaker rating to it and compare against the service breaker?
(43.3+48)x1.25=114.13 < 200
I understand your logic and I personally thought the same at first; however that is not how the code reads. I quote NEC 2020: "the maximum demand at 125% plus the new load does not exceed the ampacity of the feeder." Your equation is more conservative and there is nothing wrong with that. The code allows to get away with a little more.
@@dgtv3320 Thanks for quick response and good to know that we can use a bit more than my formula :). I will subscribe to your channel for more cool videos like this. I love mathematical explanations and not too many videos cover this type of stuff in such detail.
thank you, I appreciate the feedback.
Please make a video about doing this with a subpanel.
Very informatic video. Would you please confirm that if I am in US, the only change I need to do is on 8:03 mins I should divide by 110V and not to 240V and all others remain the same?
It would still be 240V - the charger would be 240, much like an electric dryer or oven. The rest of your outlets would be 110V typically.
@@NHRunDad But here I calculate EXISTING usage, which is based on 110V except dryer and oven.
If you are pulling data from your utility provider, you divide by 240v.
Data provided by utility is derived from the Meter. There are current transformers that measure the current, it then multiplies by the voltage between phase A and phase B ( which is 240v in 99% of the states)
Best video!
Tomorrow im going to istall mine, my panel is 100 amps for one family house feeding from at meter, i need to install 60 amps brake w wire size 6 ?
Thank you for the detailed video. So I noticed you determined that the wire size was 4/0 and aluminum which allows a maximum power of 200 A yet your master breaker in that panel was 225 A which would require MCM 250 wire. The main breaker should be protecting the wire so I would say your panel is not correctly configured.
Thanks Ron. Regarding my panel, the main breaker size is 200A not 225A. The service wire #4/0 AL is rated for 200A (for residential applications) which matches the main breaker size 200A.
The buses are rated 225, if needed you can put a 150, 125, 0r 225a breaker to match service conductor sizes. Depending on the utility and service point definition, the utility can cheap out on the conductors upstream of the meter. That is why they are always outside, if they overheat, then they will upgrade.
Can you make a video with solar panels and a de rated main breaker please
One question, if I use the 50amp nema 6-50 extension 75ft from the third floor to the first floor there is a 25ft drop from top to bottom will there be any problems? I set the charger to 32amp, it will only use 70%, the extension is a 6 cable that can withstand 50amp.
This video was helpful, it has made me decide to never try to do this on my own. I have an electrician coming tomorrow to install my Tesla wall connector lol
Glad it was helpful. It is ok to acknowledge one doesn't have the experience and it is best to hire a professional. Safety is 100x more important than saving money.
This was fantastic - only thing I don't quite get is why voltage basis is 240V and not 120V. Is this because the breaker box is two 120's?
The utility data is in terms of the voltage between phase A and phase B. For the majority of America that is 240v. Some new developments (apartments/condos) it can be 208v. I hope this helps.
Great video. If I install the Tesla’s wall connector to a 30 amp breaker, will the wall connector adjust automatically to 30 amps? Wall connector shows 12 to 48 amps.
for the Tesla wall charger, you set your installed breaker size in the phone application. For a different charger manufacturer there may be a dial somewhere that has to be set/programmed to the correct installed breaker size. Breaker size (in amps) and charge rate (in amps) are two separate values. Divide the the breaker size by 1.25 to get the charge rate. For example, 60A breaker size (60/1.25 = 48amps) has a 48amp charge rate which is the maximum for the Tesla charger. 30A breaker = 24A. Circuit breaker size does not equate to the charge setting.
In addition to using the Tesla phone app, you can also easily adjust the charging amperage to 24A for a 30 amp breaker on the charging screen in your Tesla vehicle.
The car lets you turn down the current below what the wall can supply. The wall charger has settings as shown in the video. The universal cable that used to come with the car, but they now charge $100 for, determines the max based on the plug adapter. The normal 120v 5-15 plug only allows 9 amps, and the 240v 14-50 or 6-50 allows 32 amps ( my wife's older one still allows 40 ).
Great advice but I am moving into a brand new house and have been living in a 37' trailer where my electricity is free.....the question is how do I figure this out. The new home is 1275 Sq. ft and has a 125amp service. I am thinking of putting a 40amp breaker in for my tesla charging.
And here I was thinking that you were going to explain why you would want a lower amperage over higher amperage. all makes total sense though don’t want your wires to turn into fuses
How does a solar panel grid tie system factor in? Also you mention setting your charge current. Does the EV allow you to set maximum charge current? Thanks. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a model Y Tesla.
Yes, the Tesla allows you to set the maximum and proper charge current, on both the control screen and the Tesla phone app.
@@dvader3263Thanks for the reply. Since getting my Model Y I've learned that you can also schedule when the car charges, so I set it for 12am start time when demand from the house is low. Also I learned that the cheaper Tesla portable charge cable only charges at 32 amps max. I was hoping for better than that since I installed a 50 amp circuit. Still, that's good for about 30 miles per hour, which is enough for my needs.
@@travelbydragonfly My wife's 2016 model X charges at 40 amps. I remember them having an option to buy dual on board chargers to take 80 amps, but don't see that option any more. I recently got a model 3 and it only charges at 32 amps, using the same cable and 14-50 outlet. And yea, as long as it is charged by morning, that's fast enough.
Randy good question. Solar and battery storage lowers your home electrical demand. Assuming you have your solar/batt and electrical panel on the same utility meter, this lowers demand and this should already be reflected in your utility data. This being said you can follow the same steps outlined in this video. Congrats on your new Tesla!
We just moved in and only have a few months worth of data but they are for whole months. The largest usage per month is 2358 KWH for 29 days . We have a 200 Amp breaker box that is pretty full. I need to install a double tap to free up one space for the double pole breaker. The dryers are Gas only, one dishwasher we don't use often, we do have a pool heat pump. We do have a generator interlock which took up 2 spots in the panel. I know this isn't enough info but any guidance. Thank you for your content
Steve I would consider reaching out to your utility 1) ask if they can provide max demand for each month, if they cant 2) ask to provide data in smaller time intervals, ideally no more than 1 hour; you'll need at least 2 empty slots for a 2-pole breaker. If your panel is completely full, might consider installing a small sub panel. Let me know what your utility says.
@@dgtv3320 No go on the data, My thoughts is to only charge after 9pm.This way I know nothing else is running. I ordered a 60 amp breaker but I'm seriously thinking of just going 40 Amp to be safe, Running 6 AWG THHN wire. The run from the box to the charger is about 10'
If you are going to install a project like this, great information is contained in this video.
I would say to call your building department first. They may require calculations of load based on the national electrical code ( NEC) section 220 instead of 12 months of usage data. Also, they can add, subtract, or completely ignore any or all of the building code (NEC), so the NEC may not apply to you.
The NEC had a separate section with special requirements for car charging or EVSE equipment, section 625 and that section refers you back to chapters 1,2,&3 for added requirements.
Can you install a charger without paying for an electrician, yes. There are a lot of requirements and rules to follow that they "mess" with every day. I encourage everyone to make sure that get the best information, the inspectors, a pro, or your own research. Just remember that a pro does this work every day and may be able to help you avoid problems you did not know you had, you might work out a deal where they give you the knowledge and you do the install.
Finally,. KNOWLEDGE IS THE TREASURE YOU CAN GIVE ALL OF YOURS AWAY AND STILL HAVE WHAT YOU STARTED WITH. So, is it stealing if you get it for free by asking?
And thanks for yours.
Does you house also have a subpanel inside the house (like in a bedroom or closet)? Mine does in addition to a subpanel outside next to the main.
I'm in the process of upgrading to a 200 amp main and I'm considering eliminating the subpanels. The electrician would turn the old subpanels into junction boxes.
I have a main panel on the side of the house and a sub panel in the garage. If you have a smaller sub panel right next to your main panel, consolidating to one larger 200A panel could be a good idea. If you have additional sub panels throughout the house, no need to eliminate sub panels if they are still in good condition. If they are very old and need replacement, doesn't hurt to ask for a quote to replace it (panel + feeder). You never know when you need a new circuit! Without my garage sub panel, I would have needed about 150+ linear feet of #4 copper to install the EV charger in the garage. Not only would the EV charger install be a pain in the ass (routing around the house), the install costs goes exponential.
@@dgtv3320 Thanks so much for your detailed reply! Makes logical sense. I will indeed request a second quote to replace the closet subpanel instead of elimination. Yes it's a rather ancient 60's era Square D panel, but then again, the ones outside are equally ancient GE panels.
Your information is highly technical and a bit helpful, but simply 48 Amps on a 60 amp breaker is 80% of the load this will put a lot of pressure on that circuit breaker which in my experience the breaker life will be diminished?
The meter is the first part. Some older meters are only rated at 60 amps or 100 amp not 200 amps that most new homes would have.
I see in the description you explain that you need data points every 15 minutes. My electric company can't provide that or monthly maximum demand. What I do have is a years worth of usage from every hour in KWH. Can I take that max number divided by 240 times 1000 to get max AMPs?
Unfortunately using 1hr data invalidates the equation. I plan to release another video for an alternate calculation when 15min data is not available.
What's the part number for the Dryer combination breaker/SPD? I can't find anything quite like that online but is ideal for the panel my Daughter has.
SPD/Breaker I have is made by Eaton model CH250SUR. Eaton makes two models 30A (CH230SUR) & 50A (CH250SUR). FYI: These units will only fit inside an Eaton electrical panel that accept 'CH' type breakers.
Clear as mud.
The electrical code equation in the video is that standard across the US or specific to CA ?
It is applicable across *most jurisdictions that abide by the national electrical code, which is most of the US.
So what size wire would you use for this 60amp breaker?
Rob, check this video out: ua-cam.com/video/TenDt45gH_4/v-deo.html skip to the recommended wire size chart.
The gen 3 charger manual says the wiring to the charger from the circuit breaker should be 12-4 awg, will any size in this range work or do we need to consider other factors?
There are many factors to consider, the most important is circuit breaker size. The bigger the circuit breaker, the bigger the wire. In this video ( ua-cam.com/video/OPc9_7wjcVM/v-deo.html ) I posted recommended wire sizes @ 1:41.
@@dgtv3320 got it, 6 or 4 awg. Let’s hypothetically say it has been installed on a 10 awg already, what would happen?
Hypothetically speaking the smaller wires would overheat, cracking, destroying the wire insulation. This would cause both wires to short circuit/spark which will easily turn into a fire [big reason why I recommend installing EV circuit in metallic conduit]--damaging your home and your vehicle. Assuming the charger is in the garage, there are no smoke detectors there, so the garage will roast for a while until the smoke billows into other rooms with a smoke detector--the detectors will alarm you but I'm afraid there will be plenty of damage by the time the home owner can react. Of course this never happens because certified electricians size everything correctly.
@@dgtv3320 Thank you for your expertise
Please excuse my electrical ignorance but I do have one further question. Assuming you are using a home wall connector to charge your EV and an electrical storm passes by, would your EV be in danger of damage because of its connection to the wall connector?
Electrical guy here....yes, there is a danger. My understanding is that the wall pack contains information and relays to the car when plugged in. The actual charger is inside the car, meaning that the ac power in your house runs directly into the car before it works to charge your car. Lightning can effect your home system and travel down the wires into your car, just like the TV on your wall and cause damage. There are products out there to lessen or stop these effects.
Please contact your local electrical guys with questions. Or call your local building office.
Hi Mark, yes there's a small risk damage can occur. I would make sure the charger is not plugged in to your car during a storm. I indirectly cover this topic in this video here: ua-cam.com/video/oOQTf4Lz1zY/v-deo.html I also show a device that helps prevent damage.