My switch was not turning off so the well was going dry. I called my plumber and he said the pump had to be replaced but I told him to just replace the switch. He said thats not possible because its a specialty item and not doable. Lost my trust in him after finding the item very easy on line for a couple of dollars and your video just so easy. Thank you.
Thanks for the demo. It really helped me change mine out. I have to give props to Zoeller customer service. I emailed them explaining the problem I was having. The pump would not turn on every once in a while and I had to tap it before it would work. The tech told me it was a bad switch and immediately sent me out a new one free of charge. THAT is the way to back up your product.
Hi, good video. Just one suggestion about your installation. I think it would be easier for you if your pipe coupling was higher than it is now. In other words, have a pipe about 2 - 3 feet tall that screws into your pump base and couple it at that height. Then, you won't have to reach down near the bottom of your sump with a screw driver to tighten the coupling. Thanks for putting up the video.
Thanks for showing how easy this really is Bryan. My Zoeller model M57 switch went bad 4 years ago and my plumber told me it's better to just throw the pump out and buy a new one. Unfortunately, I did. Two years later, the switch on the replacement pump also went out, but this time I found your video and ordered 2 replacement switches from Amazon. I'm saving myself $125+ each time by replacing the switch and not buying a new pump.
+Mike Medema I think the warranty on the pump is 3 years? So you should have been able to get a free one from Zoeller with proof of purchase/registration.
My plumber's diagnosis was the same, $526 for new pump, labor and tax. First pump failed in 7 years, the $526 unit failed in 5 yrs. Same short cycle problem. Shall I call him to say I repaired it myself for less than $40?
Good video mate. Just a small suggestion - next time you make a vid use a fixed cam for the parts where you do the repairs. Cant be easy moving a sump pump around but it makes for easier viewing.
Thank you so much, huge help. Prob wouldn't have been able to figure out how to remove the top without your video and suggestions. Do you actually have to replace that white screw, I have anew one, just didn't know if replacing it was necessary.
HAAAAAAAAAAA, I have that exact same hammer, and the head fell off on me years ago, good memories tossing it in the trash and getting another. Good video post, thanks.
I think the plastic plug may be a spot for pressure testing after your work is complete. if it leaks after this work, there is a potential for shock. maybe just use a GFI, or put the outlet where you can reach it when you come down the stairs?
Well done, I have a Hydromatic HP33 that looks a lot like your pump. I can't seem to locate a new switch for mine. Would you or anyone else know if they are same pumps with different branding?
I bought my first Zoeller pump in 2006. That burned out and I replaced it with a new Zoeller pump in 2008. In 2011 the float switch failed. It was a bitch to replace with water coming in, but that lasted until February 2014 when it failed again and it burned out. I bought a new Zoeller only because every place I looked they were hailed as the best pumps money could buy. Maybe the third time was the charm! March of 2016 the float switch burned out again. I replaced it with a Wayne. Hope it works.
Get a Hydromatic pump(D-A1, SD33, and SD50 are the best ones) if you want a VERY long lasting pump, they have piggy-back plugs so you can easily plug in the pump manually.
I have 3 of these Zoeller pumps and have had to replace all of them.My wifeI even called a plumber one time and he had no idea this could be done and just replaced one entire unit. I spoke to Zoeller several times and, one thing that can make this even easier is the fact you do not have to replace the white plug. In fact (even though the directions do not say this), they recommend you DO NOT replace this unless you have to. I wish I new this before because it is really hard to get it in there. Also, if you have a pump that runs all of the time, these are going to burn out in a couple of years. The Zoeller poeple said to either lift the pump in tank (so it is higher and does not cycle on so much) and/or use a piggyback float so it does not run so much. Set it up as high as possible in the tank - Zoeller 10-0055 Switch-Mate Piggyback Variable Level Float Switch
Most. Plumbers will opt for a full replacement if it is not under warranty. Special cost any product additional and sometimes most times it is easier and the same price for a plumber to replace the whole unit.
@@joeythedestroyer4852 yer right about that full replacement. My first Zoeller lasted 7 years and, Mr. "just replace the whole unit" cost $100 labor, + $380 (for a $170 pump + tax= $526. This repair for the same problem after 5 years, I can tell him I did it myself for less than $40.
Hitting the cast iron cover could crack it. Instead put a large flat screw driver between the tabs and the guard rod on either side and pry up. Do the same for the back between the shelf like protrusion that your were hitting and the frame. It will pry right up.
Great advice. The upper portion contain two semicircular lips (or you called them "tabs"). I follow your instructions to pry there with a flat-head screwdriver. It worked very well because of the mechanical advantage.
I saved a float switch from an old pump and plugged that into the zoeller pump (after removing the disintegrated integrated switch and connecting the white wire to white, black to black, leaving the green grounded as is and sealing up the holes and mating surface with RTV). Works fine. YRMV
I'm literally watching an instant replay of my day today. What is the average life span of the switch typically? I've lost two of my pumps in one year.
I just spent a day going over the design and it is inherently flawed. All it would have taken is just the absolute tiniest amount of silicon to seal the switch itself to prevent water from getting into the actual switch. They have a rubber gasket on the wire inlet and the switch arm actuator passthrough as well as a rubber gasket on the switch housing to pump housing connection, but none of those are going to remain watertight with constant movement and vibration, plus from the factory, all of the ones I checked out in 3 different stores today are torqued down so hard the gaskets are squished out and not sealing. I think this may be on purpose. Given a short bit of time water makes its way into the switch and soon enough the switch is shorting and burns itself out as it rusts itself apart. Had they bothered to use a water-sealed switch it might have been a lifetime product. I just removed the sith housing on mine, directly wired the pump to the plug, filled the cavity with silicone, and covered it with a fabricated stainless lid using RTV to seal it and silicone to add an extra layer of protection. Then I went and got a cheap remote float that turns it off and on, plugged them in and bam, 40 bucks and a bit of my time to correct their manufactured failure points, and this pump is up and running again like new.
It appears there is already a check valve at the discharge of the pump. The second check valve half way up the wall seem unnecessary in addition to being poorly located. Also, the wire colors really make no difference on the switch and to the motor terminals. The pump motor is 115VAC single phase, so either terminal on the motor can be line and/or neutral.
I have a sewage ejector pump which is covered in....well, lets just say its not covered in powdered cocoa. Anyway plan is to do this and repaint it an put on a shelf as a spare
I watched the whole video to see how you put the gasket on, if you applied a gasket seal lubricant. >.< you skipped over that part, and 9 minutes of my life I cannot get back.
I have the same exact problem with the float switch on my Zoeller M53 sump pump. I replaced the entire pump with a brand new M53, but after watching this video, I think I will rehab the old one with this Levelguard switch. Rather than cutting the wires, could you have just moved the wire connections directly from the incoming power cord to the connection points on the pump? Just wondering. Thanks
The connections on the pump are pins and the connections on the switch are blades. You need to change them out for the correct ends, or just solder them on.
Considering how often these switches fail would it make more sense to use a piggyback switch? That’s what I did. Here is my story: between 2004 and 2007 I had about 4 failures all due to switches. Then I bought a levelguard switch in 2008. Now it’s 10 years later and it’s still working. If it does eventually fail, replacing a piggyback switch is much easier since you don’t have to disassemble anything.
If you want to put a level gaurd switch on one of these you would have to bypass the original switch and tie the wires together in switch box correct or tie the float up correct since you need those contacts in switch to get motor to run since the piggy back level gaurd won't send juice to the motor.How did you do it?
wish2fish in my case the switch failed “on””. So there was nothing I had to do. The easiest way to tie the float up is to remove it altogether then with the lack of weight pulling it down the lever should stay up on its own. In either case this does Not require opening up the switch housing. Only if the switch failed off would you need to do more work.
ok-thanks for the quick response.I was not sure if just pulling the float would be sufficient.My sump does not really run that much unless we get heavy rain and have a M72 which is a builder grade pump from our new home build in 2014 and want to upgrade and get battery back up also in the Zoeller Pro Pak.I was thinking of getting a new M53 and wanted to use level gaurd.I see they sell the "N53" with the level guard as a package since it does not have the integral switch.
Piggy back float will be a float on a wire and the float guard provided will not do anything. I am a plumber and 1 out of 5 pump repairs is toilet paper sitting on top of the float. The float protection bar is quite a quality idea when dealing with sewage ejector pumps.
Alek Martin Hi- I noticed your comment on a UA-cam video. I'm changing the switch on my Zoeller sump pump and noticed the fluid in it. I thought that water might have gotten in, but the fluid is thicker. Does it belong there and do I need to add any more? Thanks for your thoughts. -Dave
The fluid is called dielectric oil. You should add the dielectric oil/ fluid only if it is dried out or missing. This fluid is supposed to be an insulator. You can probably substitute with transformer oil if you cannot get dielectric oil. --> www.supplyhouse.com/Zoeller-002588-Oil-Dielectric-19-Oz?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIybz-seCf3QIVh7rACh0pZg4vEAYYASABEgKHSPD_BwE
My switch was not turning off so the well was going dry. I called my plumber and he said the pump had to be replaced but I told him to just replace the switch. He said thats not possible because its a specialty item and not doable. Lost my trust in him after finding the item very easy on line for a couple of dollars and your video just so easy. Thank you.
Thanks for the demo. It really helped me change mine out. I have to give props to Zoeller customer service. I emailed them explaining the problem I was having. The pump would not turn on every once in a while and I had to tap it before it would work. The tech told me it was a bad switch and immediately sent me out a new one free of charge. THAT is the way to back up your product.
Just replaced my switch using your video. Your video made it easy as if I knew what I was doing. Thanks!
Hi, good video. Just one suggestion about your installation. I think it would be easier for you if your pipe coupling was higher than it is now. In other words, have a pipe about 2 - 3 feet tall that screws into your pump base and couple it at that height. Then, you won't have to reach down near the bottom of your sump with a screw driver to tighten the coupling. Thanks for putting up the video.
Thanks for showing how easy this really is Bryan. My Zoeller model M57 switch went bad 4 years ago and my plumber told me it's better to just throw the pump out and buy a new one. Unfortunately, I did. Two years later, the switch on the replacement pump also went out, but this time I found your video and ordered 2 replacement switches from Amazon. I'm saving myself $125+ each time by replacing the switch and not buying a new pump.
+Mike Medema I think the warranty on the pump is 3 years? So you should have been able to get a free one from Zoeller with proof of purchase/registration.
My plumber's diagnosis was the same, $526 for new pump, labor and tax. First pump failed in 7 years, the $526 unit failed in 5 yrs. Same short cycle problem. Shall I call him to say I repaired it myself for less than $40?
Brilliant video and excellent guidance, you made the repair painless and stress free. Very happy wife :) Very much appreciated !!!
Good video mate. Just a small suggestion - next time you make a vid use a fixed cam for the parts where you do the repairs. Cant be easy moving a sump pump around but it makes for easier viewing.
fantastic video! i really enjoyed watching it!
Worked like a charm. Thanks!
I watch this video all the time.
Thank you so much, huge help. Prob wouldn't have been able to figure out how to remove the top without your video and suggestions. Do you actually have to replace that white screw, I have anew one, just didn't know if replacing it was necessary.
HAAAAAAAAAAA, I have that exact same hammer, and the head fell off on me years ago, good memories tossing it in the trash and getting another. Good video post, thanks.
Awesome work
good job a real help thank you
I think the plastic plug may be a spot for pressure testing after your work is complete. if it leaks after this work, there is a potential for shock. maybe just use a GFI, or put the outlet where you can reach it when you come down the stairs?
Would have been a good idea to unplug the pump before you do anything?
super helpful, thank you 🤙🏼
Well done, I have a Hydromatic HP33 that looks a lot like your pump. I can't seem to locate a new switch for mine. Would you or anyone else know if they are same pumps with different branding?
I bought my first Zoeller pump in 2006. That burned out and I replaced it with a new Zoeller pump in 2008. In 2011 the float switch failed. It was a bitch to replace with water coming in, but that lasted until February 2014 when it failed again and it burned out. I bought a new Zoeller only because every place I looked they were hailed as the best pumps money could buy. Maybe the third time was the charm! March of 2016 the float switch burned out again. I replaced it with a Wayne. Hope it works.
Get a Hydromatic pump(D-A1, SD33, and SD50 are the best ones) if you want a VERY long lasting pump, they have piggy-back plugs so you can easily plug in the pump manually.
Hows your Wayne pump doing? I just bought a Wayne pump cause it was much cheaper and higher output.
I have 3 of these Zoeller pumps and have had to replace all of them.My wifeI even called a plumber one time and he had no idea this could be done and just replaced one entire unit.
I spoke to Zoeller several times and, one thing that can make this even easier is the fact you do not have to replace the white plug. In fact (even though the directions do not say this), they recommend you DO NOT replace this unless you have to. I wish I new this before because it is really hard to get it in there.
Also, if you have a pump that runs all of the time, these are going to burn out in a couple of years. The Zoeller poeple said to either lift the pump in tank (so it is higher and does not cycle on so much) and/or use a piggyback float so it does not run so much. Set it up as high as possible in the tank - Zoeller 10-0055 Switch-Mate Piggyback Variable Level Float Switch
Most. Plumbers will opt for a full replacement if it is not under warranty. Special cost any product additional and sometimes most times it is easier and the same price for a plumber to replace the whole unit.
@@joeythedestroyer4852 yer right about that full replacement. My first Zoeller lasted 7 years and, Mr. "just replace the whole unit" cost $100 labor, + $380 (for a $170 pump + tax= $526. This repair for the same problem after 5 years, I can tell him I did it myself for less than $40.
Hitting the cast iron cover could crack it. Instead put a large flat screw driver between the tabs and the guard rod on either side and pry up. Do the same for the back between the shelf like protrusion that your were hitting and the frame. It will pry right up.
Great advice. The upper portion contain two semicircular lips (or you called them "tabs"). I follow your instructions to pry there with a flat-head screwdriver. It worked very well because of the mechanical advantage.
Life saver
I'll never buy another pump with an integral float switch. External tethered switches last longer & are easy & cheap to replace.
I saved a float switch from an old pump and plugged that into the zoeller pump (after removing the disintegrated integrated switch and connecting the white wire to white, black to black, leaving the green grounded as is and sealing up the holes and mating surface with RTV). Works fine. YRMV
why did the switch fail? Contacts just fail or burn?
I'm literally watching an instant replay of my day today. What is the average life span of the switch typically? I've lost two of my pumps in one year.
Mine has been in since about 2010 and just now the switch has failed.
I just spent a day going over the design and it is inherently flawed. All it would have taken is just the absolute tiniest amount of silicon to seal the switch itself to prevent water from getting into the actual switch. They have a rubber gasket on the wire inlet and the switch arm actuator passthrough as well as a rubber gasket on the switch housing to pump housing connection, but none of those are going to remain watertight with constant movement and vibration, plus from the factory, all of the ones I checked out in 3 different stores today are torqued down so hard the gaskets are squished out and not sealing. I think this may be on purpose.
Given a short bit of time water makes its way into the switch and soon enough the switch is shorting and burns itself out as it rusts itself apart.
Had they bothered to use a water-sealed switch it might have been a lifetime product.
I just removed the sith housing on mine, directly wired the pump to the plug, filled the cavity with silicone, and covered it with a fabricated stainless lid using RTV to seal it and silicone to add an extra layer of protection.
Then I went and got a cheap remote float that turns it off and on, plugged them in and bam, 40 bucks and a bit of my time to correct their manufactured failure points, and this pump is up and running again like new.
It appears there is already a check valve at the discharge of the pump. The second check valve half way up the wall seem unnecessary in addition to being poorly located.
Also, the wire colors really make no difference on the switch and to the motor terminals. The pump motor is 115VAC single phase, so either terminal on the motor can be line and/or neutral.
Observing the wiring on disconnect and reconnecting the same way is always a winning strategy.
What was in the Testors box ?
I have a sewage ejector pump which is covered in....well, lets just say its not covered in powdered cocoa. Anyway plan is to do this and repaint it an put on a shelf as a spare
Well said, Linda! And good idea.
Cool video. But your check vale is 1 1/2”. 2 inch pipe. 2 inch pump. Better performance and valid warranty 2 inch check valve needed.
👍🏻
I watched the whole video to see how you put the gasket on, if you applied a gasket seal lubricant. >.< you skipped over that part, and 9 minutes of my life I cannot get back.
My pump only humming but not pump water. Do u know why?
I have the same exact problem with the float switch on my Zoeller M53 sump pump. I replaced the entire pump with a brand new M53, but after watching this video, I think I will rehab the old one with this Levelguard switch. Rather than cutting the wires, could you have just moved the wire connections directly from the incoming power cord to the connection points on the pump? Just wondering. Thanks
The connections on the pump are pins and the connections on the switch are blades. You need to change them out for the correct ends, or just solder them on.
Considering how often these switches fail would it make more sense to use a piggyback switch? That’s what I did. Here is my story: between 2004 and 2007 I had about 4 failures all due to switches. Then I bought a levelguard switch in 2008. Now it’s 10 years later and it’s still working. If it does eventually fail, replacing a piggyback switch is much easier since you don’t have to disassemble anything.
If you want to put a level gaurd switch on one of these you would have to bypass the original switch and tie the wires together in switch box correct or tie the float up correct since you need those contacts in switch to get motor to run since the piggy back level gaurd won't send juice to the motor.How did you do it?
wish2fish in my case the switch failed “on””. So there was nothing I had to do. The easiest way to tie the float up is to remove it altogether then with the lack of weight pulling it down the lever should stay up on its own. In either case this does Not require opening up the switch housing. Only if the switch failed off would you need to do more work.
ok-thanks for the quick response.I was not sure if just pulling the float would be sufficient.My sump does not really run that much unless we get heavy rain and have a M72 which is a builder grade pump from our new home build in 2014 and want to upgrade and get battery back up also in the Zoeller Pro Pak.I was thinking of getting a new M53 and wanted to use level gaurd.I see they sell the "N53" with the level guard as a package since it does not have the integral switch.
Piggy back float will be a float on a wire and the float guard provided will not do anything. I am a plumber and 1 out of 5 pump repairs is toilet paper sitting on top of the float. The float protection bar is quite a quality idea when dealing with sewage ejector pumps.
@@joeythedestroyer4852 this isnt sewer though!! Lol. This is ground water bub...some plumber you are
4 and a half minutes into the video and you haven't even started yet.
You missed the dielectric fluid which is missing in your pump. How can you forget that?
Alek Martin
Hi- I noticed your comment on a UA-cam video. I'm changing the switch on my Zoeller sump pump and noticed the fluid in it. I thought that water might have gotten in, but the fluid is thicker. Does it belong there and do I need to add any more? Thanks for your thoughts. -Dave
The fluid is called dielectric oil. You should add the dielectric oil/ fluid only if it is dried out or missing. This fluid is supposed to be an insulator. You can probably substitute with transformer oil if you cannot get dielectric oil. --> www.supplyhouse.com/Zoeller-002588-Oil-Dielectric-19-Oz?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIybz-seCf3QIVh7rACh0pZg4vEAYYASABEgKHSPD_BwE
American product have rust german in danmark grundfos don't have it good gualiti
To much talking
Bro just buy a new one
Save your self time to do something batter