Bisons Aquarium.... damn I never imagined I would find someone with an attention span comparable to that of a gold fish, and have this person watch the entire video (14 minutes, 11 seconds) but look at this, my lucky day 😂😂😂
Does anyone have tips on replacing the capacitor? I was just going to clean the parts with alcohol and then solder the new one in before reassembly and refill.... But... open to any feedback..... Great video by the way!
the tip is to measure the capacitor to diagnose good/bad. Capacitor is surged by the high lock rotor start up current before it starts spinning. The way I keep my ejector running like new is by having an inline "soft-starter" controlled by the float sensor to drive pump motor smoothly. Sensor > Soft-starter > 30Amp Relay : long uninterrupted service life without float or pump failure.
Ok great video. I have been replacing the pump in a sump pit for 25 years. Every two years the pump stops working. Today I decided to take it apart since the motor is not shorted. That fluid flew all over my work shop. The problem was the capacitor was toast. It look like gray puddy. I think this has been the same problem with all the previous pumps. That oil is breaking down the capacitor. I believe that is a factory defect. I have 2 sump pits. The pump in both pits goes out every 18 to 24 months if we have a rainy season. The warranty is for 3 years.Any one else having capacitor problems. My pumps are both 98 style.
Just over two years on mine and the unit just hums until it trips the breaker. The impeller is free so I think the problem is the capacitor, which I cannot find anywhere. Did your unit just hum Danny?
@@dannypowers4995 Thank you. I just took the top off of my M137-D and the black rectangular shaped component is cracked, partially melted, and looks like it oozed some material that has become hard and in a ball-shape. I don't think it is a capacitor and it is not hooked to the float arm. There are many wires hooked to it and the power cord is hooked to it as well. The float arm enters the pump at a different section of the pump. I'll look for schematics.
@@dannypowers4995 Okay Danny, looks like this part IS the capacitor. I was expecting a round, metal capacitor but according to the schematic this is the item numbered 155782, which Zoeller confirmed. www.pumpproducts.com/media/amasty/amfile/attach/Parts%20List,%20Model%20137%20(M,%20D,%20N,%20E)%2060%20Hz.pdf
Not much information for the time spent watching. However, for your information the float is almost always the problem and it can be replaced if you can still read the model number-
I own the M98. It is currently dry and has been out of the water. I replaced switch, but now the pump just hums (dry) any idea what I could check next?
Check the base first and make sure it is clear and that the weep hole is not clogged. But its Probably the capacitor. Take the oil plug out and see if the oil is grey. If this is the case You will need a new stator.
@@bigblue3221 By "stator" do you mean the capacitor? My M137-D just hums when I trigger the switch, and then it kicks the breaker on the panel after five or six seconds. I am having a heck of a time finding a replacement capacitor. Zoeller says they do not have any in stock right now. Thanks Big Blue
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I never even thought of using my pool table as a work bench ..... Thanks
wow, i will never get that 14 minutes of my life back.
Bisons Aquarium.... damn I never imagined I would find someone with an attention span comparable to that of a gold fish, and have this person watch the entire video (14 minutes, 11 seconds) but look at this, my lucky day 😂😂😂
You say it is old, but that is exactly what brand new ones look like as well. They are still making those new.
Does anyone have tips on replacing the capacitor? I was just going to clean the parts with alcohol and then solder the new one in before reassembly and refill.... But... open to any feedback..... Great video by the way!
the tip is to measure the capacitor to diagnose good/bad.
Capacitor is surged by the high lock rotor start up current before it starts spinning.
The way I keep my ejector running like new is by having an inline "soft-starter" controlled by the float sensor to drive pump motor smoothly.
Sensor > Soft-starter > 30Amp Relay : long uninterrupted service life without float or pump failure.
FYI a sump pump tank is called a sump.
Ok great video. I have been replacing the pump in a sump pit for 25 years. Every two years the pump stops working. Today I decided to take it apart since the motor is not shorted. That fluid flew all over my work shop. The problem was the capacitor was toast. It look like gray puddy. I think this has been the same problem with all the previous pumps. That oil is breaking down the capacitor. I believe that is a factory defect. I have 2 sump pits. The pump in both pits goes out every 18 to 24 months if we have a rainy season. The warranty is for 3 years.Any one else having capacitor problems. My pumps are both 98 style.
Try a zoeller M53-0001. Smaller pump no capacitor to go bad.
Just over two years on mine and the unit just hums until it trips the breaker. The impeller is free so I think the problem is the capacitor, which I cannot find anywhere. Did your unit just hum Danny?
@@VideoMyLifeLLC no noise at all.
@@dannypowers4995 Thank you. I just took the top off of my M137-D and the black rectangular shaped component is cracked, partially melted, and looks like it oozed some material that has become hard and in a ball-shape. I don't think it is a capacitor and it is not hooked to the float arm. There are many wires hooked to it and the power cord is hooked to it as well. The float arm enters the pump at a different section of the pump. I'll look for schematics.
@@dannypowers4995 Okay Danny, looks like this part IS the capacitor. I was expecting a round, metal capacitor but according to the schematic this is the item numbered 155782, which Zoeller confirmed. www.pumpproducts.com/media/amasty/amfile/attach/Parts%20List,%20Model%20137%20(M,%20D,%20N,%20E)%2060%20Hz.pdf
This is probably the most uninformative thing I've ever watched. 14min of stating the obvious.
Not much information for the time spent watching. However, for your information the float is almost always the problem and it can be replaced if you can still read the model number-
where can I buy the dielectric fluid and gaskets for the pump
I own the M98. It is currently dry and has been out of the water. I replaced switch, but now the pump just hums (dry) any idea what I could check next?
Check the base first and make sure it is clear and that the weep hole is not clogged.
But its Probably the capacitor. Take the oil plug out and see if the oil is grey.
If this is the case You will need a new stator.
@@bigblue3221 By "stator" do you mean the capacitor? My M137-D just hums when I trigger the switch, and then it kicks the breaker on the panel after five or six seconds. I am having a heck of a time finding a replacement capacitor. Zoeller says they do not have any in stock right now. Thanks Big Blue
Just made me dizzy.
I put in new switch, and still no luck. Hopefully a pebble is stuck in mine and nothing more serious.
Is the impeller free or does it seem locked up? I see your post is three years old; how did you resolve the issue and what was wrong, please. Thanks!
Zoeller sump pumps are crap. Speaking from experience here..