3SEHL Sump Pump Problem - Switch randomly doesn't work sometimes?
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Starting in fall of 2016, the switch randomly would not kick on sometimes. I found the problem to be the arm not pushing up with enough force sometimes to turn flip the switch on. If I barely touch the arm/float after the water has risen up past the top of the float, the switch immediately flips on and the pump works properly.
Over the last few months, I've been having to replace the switch every month. After about a month, the problem begins happening about 1 out of 10 times and gets progressively worse over the next month, until the switch doesn't work 9/10 times. Pump works perfect otherwise.
Sump Pump Model 3SEHL: www.starwatersy...
Replacement Switch KH82
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I gave up today and bought a new sump pump at Home Depot. $128 and it has a 5 year warranty. I got tired of buying replacement switches. Although my current one has lasted about 5 months so far, it has started to occasionally not flip on.
prolly your best bet if you had it happen alot already. was thinking someone in the same problem could maybe use a piggyback style float and use it with the old one set to on at all time. if the didnt wanna replace the whole pump. i just replaced a ejector pump the switch on it wasnt staying up so when the float wwnt down just a little bit it would cut off.
This is unacceptable. There should be a class action lawsuit against these pump makers. You'd think insurance companies would be suing them for water damage caused by their faulty products.
Had the exact same issue and found that the float....that was solid plastic also(supposedly) had water in it that could be heard when shook. Glad you got yours fixed.
Interesting. It looks like it is one solid piece. Did you drain it and seal it up or did you purchase a new float.....assuming they sell a float separately?
Try getting a non automatic pump from zoeller like a n53 and pair it with a level guard. They are pretty reliable. I just had to replace a sump pump that lasted 26 years. Thrh definitely font make them like they used to
I have same issue. Thanks for making video.
If you want more "FORCE" then just put a spacer between the metal arm and the white float, This will cause more FORCE to push the lever up... BUT you shouldn't have to do this because it was designed to work the way they designed it! I would replace the switch OR open it up and hot wire it to run all the time, then just use a piggy back outlet float switch that can control ANY type pump.
Great idea will do this asap thanks for the tip
My Sumppump is 30 years old and it still works. All I did was put a battery back up in and I’m still good. Plan on keeping my old sumppump in there till it dies
Adding tubing to the rod that goes through the float as some suggest might cause the pump to short-cycle. The float typically moves up the rod before reaching the top and tripping the switch to the on position. As the water level falls, the float moves down the rod until it reaches the bottom and only then trips the switch to the off position. Problem with these Zoeller pumps is that the weight of the float may be too little to turn off the switch and the upward pressure from the float may not be enough to turn on the switch as the pumps age. Rubber rod seal gets hard, the strap at the bottom of the float may become rigid, the switch may build up resistance on the contacts, etc. I solved my problem with the pump not turning on by wrapping some closed cell foam around the float secured with zip ties. This increased the buoyancy enough to trip the switch reliably. Be careful to make sure there is enough clearance around the float when you're done, otherwise it will get caught on something.
I eventually bought a whole new pump because I got tired of it sticking.
I had the same problem with with the float not kicking off the pump, if I shook the pipe it would trigger the pump. I wound up using a toilet ball float ($4) instead of a new float mechanism and tied to the float arm to help the arm which worked as interim. However I had to tied a the ball so it would not flop down after the water drain as it sometimes got stuck and I would have same issue. I just tied to top bolt of the cover and worked great for 2 years. It just recentley got stuck in the on position and was running continuously, not sure why but I think the motor may be near the end, I'm not sure how long it was running for, but it was still working, but I'm going to replace the pump now since I'm afraid the pump motor may be close to burned out for running dry. But it is frustrating that the pump works good but the float mechanism does not work correctly
dakbong you had a good Solution. I ended up replacing mine as well. I got tired of messing with it and replacing switches.
I'm having this issue, but my sump is a vertical one, not the floater. I bought the floater first, but it worked once and nevermore. Returned it and got a vertical (which is what was there before it stopped working - had this house for nearly 4 years.) The new one worked for a week, then stopped. It still switches on when I press the switch, but having to do it manually gets tiresome and I have a busy life that I forget to do mundane things like that. I may try adding a foam thing to it to make the floater not raise as much, but I just wish I knew why it suddenly stopped.
the house's runoff for the laundry water was routed into the basin - that came with the house, I have no tools or know how or money to fix that. I'm wondering if that water pouring on top of the pump would've caused it to stop switching on automatically? Maybe I need to reposition it so water doesn't touch it from the top?
it may just be internal parts are wearing out and not moving like they once did. You could try the foam first, that worked for a while on mine.
I found that if you add a 1 to 2 in tubing depending on the pump and how much it's going to take the float to rise and flip the switch. It works great. I put a 2 inch long tubing around and above the float on the metal rod. I put a slit in the tubing to wrap around the metal rod above the float. It gave the float enough pressure to flip the switch on.
Can you describe a little better what size hose you used? I'm having hard time visualizing your solution.
@@TheMnestroy I'm going to try using 1/2 or 3/4 pex pipe. As I have the same issue
Thanks for this, this fix worked for me
I know this video is quite old, but I just ran into this exact problem with my Zoeller 53 pump. What I did to give it the needed “FORCE” required to make that switch kick on was tie-wrapping an empty 16oz plastic water bottle to the existing float. I also added an additional tie-wrap between that tie-wrap and the float’s bottom platform strap. This ensures that the water bottle doesn’t slip away over time. I too was aggravated and mere seconds away from buying a new pump myself. Hopefully this helps someone.
Great solution! Unfortunately I gave up and bought a new pump.
Can you post a picture of what you did. I don't see a lot of space to do this
I have the exact same problem. You can almost breath on the float and it will kick on. Replaced the switch……no help. Even did the foam under the float trick…….no help. I’m going to try replacing the rubber strip that supports the float shaft/guide with something more rigid. I’m thinking the float gets crooked and loses buoyancy.
Stop me before I tinker again 😂
I eventually gave up and bought a whole new pump since this one was who knows how old (it was there when we bought the house in 2008)
I actually put some washers on mine so it wouldn't have to raise as much but it still has problems from time to time
I tried something similar a while back, bending the arm downward slightly in a vice, so when installed, it would pivot up sooner, throwing the switch. I think all we've really done in these cases is make the pump kick on more frequently, which would cause the switches to wear out sooner.
Mine is doing the same. I do not believe it is the switch. Its the the arm rod. The rod has worn out and is getting caught up or binding. If I reach down and lightly move the arm to the side it will work.I think I am going to replace the whole top. Zoeller cap and assembly $53.00
Good find! I couldn't find just the cap & assembly.
I'm having the same issue
I have same issue too. Zoeller tech support told me to drill a 1/8" or 3/16" diagonal hole on 1.5" discharge pipe between top of the pump and uni-direction check valve just under the basin cover. It is supposed to get rid of air pockets trapped in the pipe and causing pump not operating. It's even mentioned in installation instructions. I told him that model 53 and 98 series pumps have built-in vent hole and also about humidity causing switch malfunction and rod seal getting stiff but he still insisted to drill that vent hole. I will try this cheap solution before spending $68 to replace the whole top switch assembly.
@@afara2000 did the vent hole resolve your issue? My pump is doing the exact same thing.
@@526colin My problem was with the switch and I replaced it. It was full of water. As others mentioned, the gasket goes bad after some time specially if there are drain pipes dripping water on top of the pump. I applied some silicone lubricant on the gasket and made sure no water drips on top of the new switch. I did drill a small hole diagonally on discharge pipe to improve its function. It basically discharges water left between pump and check valve. My pump was running OK without vent hole for years and I don't think it's necessary if pump has built-in check valve.
How much should I pay for a sump pump replacement this guyhas already charged me $200 to clean it still not working properly. now he wants $600 more to replace it?
Ouch! I bet a new pump is $200 tops. I think I got one with warranty for $158 at Home Depot a while back.
What if youtube became a platform where everyone posted their problems. Then in stead of searching for solutions you could just look and see everyone that had the same problem you have? And in stead of clearly stating the problem once, you could just say the same thing over and over again for three and a half minutes? You're welcome for the comment.
I think you’re onto something here… great idea!
Have the same problem did you figure it out?
I narrowed it down to the amount of play/slop in the arm's pivot point. I called and spoke to a rep at Star Water Systems, and he said it is most likely the arm. They do not sell the cast iron top cover/arm as a replacement part. He suggested I could try to shim the pivot point of the arm to take out the slack. Ironically, since I made this video, I have only had this issue happen maybe 3 times in the past month. When it does get stuck, I jiggle it up/down for a few seconds and that seems to keep it moving for a while. The next time it gets stuck repeatedly, I'll take it apart and see what kind of shim I can make.
It's a shame that a small part wearing out can bring down a pump that was otherwise built so well.
I just replaced my parents sumppump at there house. There’s only lasted 4 years. Like I said my house has its original sump pump in there which is 30 years old. Ill wait to replace it when it dies. At least I have a battery back up pump in there
I think your arm is the problem. I've seen someone change it cause it became too stiff.
I ended up replacing the whole pump a long time ago because I couldn't find the parts I needed.
Let me know if you find any remedies
will do!
Well that means your sump is busted it needs replacing at least that wat I think I'm not an expert
Had this exact same problem last weekend after some big rains here in MD. This was yesterday's project to convert a M57 into a N57.
ua-cam.com/video/6cnWuTDsSrw/v-deo.html