I love your videos! Hope you will get lot's of viewers any time soon. You give us many good tips and tricks, to make our 3D printers even better. Again, Thank you!
Thanks for those very useful tips.I begin SW building, so I instantly ordered the belt. Please should you share a link for your ball filament guide? regards
Yeah im defo gonna diy the enclosure in polycarb, i heard epoxy glue works well with pc panels (and its transparent), perhaps i can skip most of the vhb stuff! Awsome build mr Ivan!
I really like your additions to the switchwire. The belt tensioner is my favorite. Are you willing to share the designs? Also how do you get your tnuts to stick in the extrusion when you remove the enclosure? I like to print pla, but in the enclosure with doors open my hotend suffers frome heat creap. I have built one switchwire so far and have started on my second. Thank you for sharing! Keep up the good work!
Hi, the t-nuts are from Misumi and have kind of spring that holds them in place. Regarding the tensionner - it is just a remix of this tensionner I use on my CR-10 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854971 and the belt holder from Voron. It is not ideal because I had to cut my deck pannels, so I really hope there will be an official and more sophisticated y-tensioner from Voron soon.
When printing with PLA, you should not be using an enclosure. It's almost guaranteed to cause extrusion issues. One of the things that can (and often does) happen, is that the extuder gears heat up, causing them to grind through PLA filament.
Not a bad design. I will stick with Aluminium and Plexiglass inlays I think, I dont need to look from everywhere into the printer, so it's ok. But I like your way to do it, I really hate these pre cut panels
Ha, I spent some time searching for this myself :) I don't remember where I found the solution, but here is an extract from my Klipper config: [thermistor Trianglelab_T-D500] temperature1: 25 resistance1: 4721000 temperature2: 200 resistance2: 8000 temperature3: 400 resistance3: 264.6 # R(200C) = 8K +- 5% # B(150/250) = 5300k +- 3% Then under [extruder] define: sensor_type: Trianglelab_T-D500
Just to add that this termistor readings are not very accurate at low temperatures, but above 50 C its OK. For exemple, when the bed termistor measures 23 C room temperature the hotend shows 26 - 28 C. It has no impact when printing of course, but could be disturbing. This is related to the design of the termistor and its measurment range and is small price to pay for the big advantage - avoid PT100/PT1000 and additional amplifiers.
Sorry to ask on this video. Great video. I noticed you have twin Z screws with one motor on the CR-10. Which mod are you using for that? Thank you for your videos. I printed and have been using your extruder. Now I am also moving to the Voron Afterburner.
Hi, I used this design www.thingiverse.com/thing:3626260, but I modified the bottom bracket (the base) to be larger in order to have space for 2 VHB tapes (12mm tape) and also to host heated threaded inserts (to screw to the top bracket). It was an overkill. If printing from ABS, it is better to just stick the top and the bottom bracket with acetone, insted of wasting inserts.
TBH, I havent much consider this aspect. It is less airtight then on 2.4 or Trident, where is used foam tape. It is possible to use foam tape here as well BTW. I just have an air purifier next to the printers and I hope it catches all fine particles.
@@oaiwjebdlla For the lens? I remember I bought the set of smartphone lenses from Aliexpress for less than 10 $, but I dont have a link. When you camera is close to the print you need a wide angle lens (not fish eye), to get the whole width of the build plate. My advice is to check on aliexpress because quality and prices vary a lot.
Hi, those are 4 little ABS panels 4mm thick, 100% infill. They were stuck together with acetone. I made the files using the fusion360 assembly file on github. I am not sure I keep those files, however I saw similar parts for the dock panel were published on voronusers printer_mods on github. Check there first for more "official" version.
Could you maybe look over your microphone setup? i'm listening with headphones, and there's a weird echo/reverbation, and maybe try to level the audio so it doesn't jump high/low with different cuts. Otherwise, nice and informative, keep on printing!
Sorry for this, my printers are in a small room and I thought using a lavalier microphone solves the echo, but apparently it is not enough. BTW, there are subtitles on most of my videos. maybe turn them On and lower the volume.
Hi Ivan, as I learned from you how to print PC filament I have a question: printing PC goed typically fine but during printing time by time a get a small bubble of melted pc onto my nozzle just beside the ruby nozzle tip. During printing sometimes this bubble drops onto the print. Any tips or recommendations ? I checked my nozzle is not leaking out of the heater cartridge. Thanks for helping
Your enclosure looks so much better then stock. way to go!
You are a great source of information for the European Voron community man. Thanks!
I love your videos! Hope you will get lot's of viewers any time soon. You give us many good tips and tricks, to make our 3D printers even better. Again, Thank you!
Very nice video. Good information for my future build. Thanks for the information. I look forward for more videos in the future.
Do you have a link for the Filament entry point from the top of the enclosure? or advice. Many thanks
Great work. I try to enclose my ender switchwire and also want to use PC panels. Where did you source yours? I only found shops with 65 € / m².
Thanks for those very useful tips.I begin SW building, so I instantly ordered the belt. Please should you share a link for your ball filament guide? regards
love you videos....keep them coming
Yeah im defo gonna diy the enclosure in polycarb, i heard epoxy glue works well with pc panels (and its transparent), perhaps i can skip most of the vhb stuff! Awsome build mr Ivan!
looks pretty. can you share the CAD files for the unified side panels?
Hi, very good content, thanks for that. My question to you is where can i find that 3d model of the printer in 3:08 ? all best
This is the cad file supplied by Voron on their github. You can view it in fusion360 or in the autodesk online viewer.
hi, can you share the mounting stl for the camera? nice idea :D
I really like your additions to the switchwire. The belt tensioner is my favorite. Are you willing to share the designs?
Also how do you get your tnuts to stick in the extrusion when you remove the enclosure? I like to print pla, but in the enclosure with doors open my hotend suffers frome heat creap.
I have built one switchwire so far and have started on my second.
Thank you for sharing! Keep up the good work!
Hi, the t-nuts are from Misumi and have kind of spring that holds them in place. Regarding the tensionner - it is just a remix of this tensionner I use on my CR-10 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854971 and the belt holder from Voron. It is not ideal because I had to cut my deck pannels, so I really hope there will be an official and more sophisticated y-tensioner from Voron soon.
@@3dpblog thanks for the reply. I have a belt tensioner in the works. Maybe the voron guys will like it!
When printing with PLA, you should not be using an enclosure. It's almost guaranteed to cause extrusion issues. One of the things that can (and often does) happen, is that the extuder gears heat up, causing them to grind through PLA filament.
Not a bad design. I will stick with Aluminium and Plexiglass inlays I think, I dont need to look from everywhere into the printer, so it's ok. But I like your way to do it, I really hate these pre cut panels
Hi! can you please share the file for the hinge?
Good afternoon and congratulations on your Voron.
What kind of slicer for your Voron?
thanks
Ivan, wonderful video! In kipper how you configure the thermistor table for your controller board.
Ha, I spent some time searching for this myself :) I don't remember where I found the solution, but here is an extract from my Klipper config:
[thermistor Trianglelab_T-D500]
temperature1: 25
resistance1: 4721000
temperature2: 200
resistance2: 8000
temperature3: 400
resistance3: 264.6
# R(200C) = 8K +- 5%
# B(150/250) = 5300k +- 3%
Then under [extruder] define:
sensor_type: Trianglelab_T-D500
Just to add that this termistor readings are not very accurate at low temperatures, but above 50 C its OK. For exemple, when the bed termistor measures 23 C room temperature the hotend shows 26 - 28 C. It has no impact when printing of course, but could be disturbing. This is related to the design of the termistor and its measurment range and is small price to pay for the big advantage - avoid PT100/PT1000 and additional amplifiers.
Sorry to ask on this video. Great video. I noticed you have twin Z screws with one motor on the CR-10. Which mod are you using for that? Thank you for your videos. I printed and have been using your extruder. Now I am also moving to the Voron Afterburner.
Can you give me the drawing of the Voron Switchwire cover
Hi Ivan top video. Where can I find the files of the filament ball guide ? Thanks for helping
Hi, I used this design www.thingiverse.com/thing:3626260, but I modified the bottom bracket (the base) to be larger in order to have space for 2 VHB tapes (12mm tape) and also to host heated threaded inserts (to screw to the top bracket). It was an overkill. If printing from ABS, it is better to just stick the top and the bottom bracket with acetone, insted of wasting inserts.
@@3dpblog Thanks Ivan
The enclosure doesn’t appear to be super airtight. Do you have issues with fumes?
TBH, I havent much consider this aspect. It is less airtight then on 2.4 or Trident, where is used foam tape. It is possible to use foam tape here as well BTW. I just have an air purifier next to the printers and I hope it catches all fine particles.
ehy, nice video, what camera is that, hq version? did you use any lenses?
Nope, the normal rpi camera with a smartphone wide angle lens.
@@3dpblog do you have any link please?
@@oaiwjebdlla For the lens? I remember I bought the set of smartphone lenses from Aliexpress for less than 10 $, but I dont have a link. When you camera is close to the print you need a wide angle lens (not fish eye), to get the whole width of the build plate. My advice is to check on aliexpress because quality and prices vary a lot.
@@3dpblog okay, maybe I'll try rpi camera V2
can i get those dxf files?
Where did u get the Bottom panel for underneath the bed can you give me the stl file
Hi, those are 4 little ABS panels 4mm thick, 100% infill. They were stuck together with acetone. I made the files using the fusion360 assembly file on github. I am not sure I keep those files, however I saw similar parts for the dock panel were published on voronusers printer_mods on github. Check there first for more "official" version.
@@3dpblog thanks
Is the PC-ABS trick still useful if I use a polycarbonate sheet as my print bed?
Nope, PC sticks well on a PC sheet, you dont need an ABS raft.
Could you maybe look over your microphone setup? i'm listening with headphones, and there's a weird echo/reverbation, and maybe try to level the audio so it doesn't jump high/low with different cuts.
Otherwise, nice and informative, keep on printing!
Sorry for this, my printers are in a small room and I thought using a lavalier microphone solves the echo, but apparently it is not enough. BTW, there are subtitles on most of my videos. maybe turn them On and lower the volume.
Hi Ivan, as I learned from you how to print PC filament I have a question: printing PC goed typically fine but during printing time by time a get a small bubble of melted pc onto my nozzle just beside the ruby nozzle tip. During printing sometimes this bubble drops onto the print. Any tips or recommendations ? I checked my nozzle is not leaking out of the heater cartridge. Thanks for helping