really appreciate the well done subtitles on this, im hard of hearing so its nice to see people putting effort into quality captions. thanks for the switchwire review i think this is the one ill go for
Thanks for dropping a price estimate, I've been trying to find that for a while. The print quality paired with the speed seems astonishing! The Voron community is indeed very strong, I recently joined their discord and its worth joining if you're a 3d-printer enthusiast!
I'm very much looking into this printer, thanks for the overview. I think this is the best cartesian printer out there to date and I'm looking forward to build one :)
I am wondering if the test cube actually got to higher speeds (and a shorter printing time) when you changed from 200 to 300mm p/s? Acceleration and braking curves for these short moves would be he limiting factor.
Thank you for this video! I bought a delta because I wanted to print fast. I think I am going to pack up this flsun delta and start sourcing some parts!
Layer shift is usually due to fast travel moves,most likely in Y because bed can't move fast enough. I changed my bed from glass to pei sheet to reduce weight and increase bed speed.
16:25 Pressure advance works fine with klipper on 2208 thanks to the Kevin hack. Linear advance doesn't work with standalone (stealthchop) 2208 in current Marlin version. But it could be fixed in the future.
If you have a particular question I could help, but I won't make a video for the wiring. The most important is to buy wires with PTFE isolation for the chains. I used 1.8 m wires from the board to the printhead (in order to have some spare lenght). The connections to the board are very easy - you need the picture of the board pins layout (3dpblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/skr-mini-e3-v2-pins.png), then check in the firmware supplied by Voron for E3 mini V2 to which pins is connected each component.
Really well done sir. Your neatness is commendable, I only hope my project turns out half as well in comparison. Also very curious what filament you used in this video, I really like it.
The speed is limited by feedrate and acceleration if in marlin you set 150 the max speed is 150 and it is if your acceleration will be 5000 ;) so your speed max is 80-100:)
This is Klipper. The only thing that could limit the speed would be something in the slicer I am not aware of. I just switched from Simplify3D to Cura.
It is not necessary to guess the actual maximum printing speed. Give it a sufficiently long straight-line path (e.g., 250 mm) to print in the X direction and video record it with at least 60 fps (this gives about 17 ms per frame). Then review the video clip in a video editor and pay attention to the displayed elapsed time. Placing a tape on the bed with 10 mm spaced marks (in front of the line being printed) should give reasonably good estimates of the acceleration and deceleration times. Using a 120 fps video mode will allow sub-10ms time resolution.
Hi, thanks for the video! I'm trying to decide, upgrade my ender 3 to Switchwire, or a completely new, build. Any recommendations? Where did you source your frame (fermio, lecktor )?
Can you please tell what is the total height of the machine without and with the spool on top? I could not find size of the machine itself anywhere, but I might fit it on a larger shelf close to my desktop. Hence the height is important to know.
Sorry for the late reply, I measured the height of the switchwire with the vibration dumper legs and spool - 75 cm, without spool and spool holder on top - 52 cm.
In the original spec from Voron there is no mosfet specified (if Im not wrong), because the control board is capable to power the prusa bed directly. I installed a mosfet just for additional safety. Any 24 V / >20A mosfet is fine.
That only with PLA you can go high speed. Also with PETG up to some extend. But for most other filaments like ABS, PC, TPU you are limited to slow speeds by the properties of this materials. For ABS I go max to 80 mm/s, PC and TPU at 40 mm/s.
That is my only explanation because I didnt witness lauer shifts on other prints and because the file for Adelinda was first converted from Prusa format.
@@3dpblog I still find it implausible that it’s caused by the slicer, and just because your printer hasn’t caused layer a shift before doesn’t mean that it won’t do so now. It could for example be the print warping slightly, causing the nozzle to bump into it and the Y motor skipping a few steps (if so, this would be solved by using z-hop). But I could of course be wrong, and if the layer shift really is caused by the slicer you should be able to see it if you open the gcode file in Cura.
Thanks for the information. Very good video. I'm planning to build a Voron this year. I like the Switch wire. I'm planning on buying good quality parts. If I can I'd like to buy some Prusa parts if possible. If not then I'd like to find better quality parts. Any other advice you have before I dive into this?
Get the best belts you can find - this is for me the most critical point. I use high temperature gates belts (they are a bit stifer than regular gates). Then for the linear rails Robotdigg is fine for me, but dont go cheaper than that. Some people complain about chineese bearings - i had no problems so far, but if you can find better - do it. Last - order proffessionally cutted and drilled frame profiles (Misumi/LDO).
Looks great. Curious how much it cost you in total to make this switch wire? Although nice, it seems quite expensive from what I read, might prefer to make 1.8 for the same money.
Around 650 usd. 1.8 is minimum 1000 if you respect the specs. The frame is 2x more expensive, then the mic6 plate and keenovo heater are the other big difference. I was considering the 1.8, but finally decided to go for 2.4 for my next build.
Hi, I normally have the oposite problem with PC - it is dificult to have it to stick well. Before I used PC sheet for the build surface, but here I needed good dimensional precision and I printed the PC parts on PEI at 120C. The smaller parts printed easy, for the big parts I used the following technique: - First layer is from PC-ABS - it sticks well on the PEI; - Then I change the filament with PC and it sticks great on the PC-ABS.p
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Do you enclose when you print ABS? and if yes, what do you use as enclosure? I usually print 240/105 with chamber around 35 (I would like to reach 50 but can't, I use a delta for now... Building a 1.8).
This is just a start gcode in the slicer. You can set the color of the display in the top of the start code with: SET_LED LED=fysetc_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 and then after homing and ABL commands to set it to different color with the same command: SET_LED LED=fysetc_mini12864 RED=0 GREEN=1 BLUE=0
BTW, if you are building this, check the voron discord group how to set the Fysetc display, because it requires some wiring modifications for the SKR E3 mini V2
Linear advance can be used with UART or SPI, and it doesn't work with standalone mode (legacy mode). I am not a guru in this area, so my explanation may be simplistic, but basically on the TMC 2208/09 drivers there is a UART pin (serial connection) and in this way the driver can be directly and dynamically controlled and monitored by the firmware. This gives you many new features, like setting the max driver currents or linear advance (pressure advance) values directly in Marlin or Klipper. In standalone mode the firmware can not communicate directly with the stepper drivers, so for currents you have to play with Vrefs and there is no way to set linear advance.
There were many similar questions before. You can go to Voron discord group and search for "PETG" to get better idea of user experience with PETG parts. Myself I didn't try because I printed with ABS (the recomended filament) except for some parts I printed with PC. I think the ABS is the official filament, because it is not only more resistent to temperature, but it is also softer and dumps vibrations better than PETG.
@@3dpblog if I set-up my Ender 3 Pro to print ABS I won't need to build this thing! I was planning on upgrading my hot-end anyway... might just buy a Prusa Mini Clone bear kit so I can print and use PETG parts...I'm not with the toxic ABS fumes
Nice yob. Can you print whit PLA in white color, it would be better test, to se for imperfections. This filament hides imprefections, because of gliters. Cao.
Hi, the only white PLA I had was some very old sample. Here is the test you requested ua-cam.com/video/XCEJMlnAKCk/v-deo.html, however I think many of the artefacts are due to the filament being very old. I also got some warping with both test prints. Sorry, I print mainly ABS and don't have many PLA colors, normally I buy PLA only for a particular project.
Guys, this is NOT 200mm/s and certainly not 300mm/a. You cannot reach those speeds at 2000 acceleration. Change that to 5000mm/s2 maybe. Lol. That cube at a true 300mm/s should taken20minutes
To me those speeds are no faster than a stock Prusa can go. I think this is capable of far more, but you need to crank the acceleration and jerk settings way up. I think my Railcore is at 5,000 acceleration, and 14 on Jerk.
This is a printer with a moving bed, not a corexy voron 2.4 or a railcore. I would compare it with Prusa indeed, with few advantages. Check my other tests (in the description). With 2000 accel. and 200mm/s max speed I start getting some ringing on the Y, though the belt of the bed is very tight. For me this is the limit acceleration for moving bed in order to get quality prints.
@@3dpblog I understand... but to say it’s printing at 150 or 200 mm/s isn’t accurate. It’s not printing that fast. It’s physically impossible. I’d be happy to show you guys what a true 150, 200 even 400mm/s looks like. It’s mind boggling fast. The reason I commented is I see this all the time. People claim “I can’t print at 200mm/s”, but you’re not really. If that cube took 45 minutes my guess is it’s truly printing at 60mm/a.
@@thelightspeed3d712 Normaly 2000mm/s2 should accelerate the print head from 0 to 200mm/s for 0.1s www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration Maybe in a printer there are many other latencies and delays down to the stepper reaction, so for this small cube the speed doesnt reach 200. For the big cube from my second test though (check the video description) it certainly goes to that speed on longer lines.
Nice ;) You haven't tell the major advantage of CoreXZ and SW build and you haven't use it at all :( The purpose of that fast Z movement is z-hop :) It makes some detail objects way easy to print cause the head moves and not braking parts. Also about non ABS components... PC would be weaker if oil get out of some of the metal mechanical pars. It has been design and build out of ABS on purpose ;) Only the cooling duct should be printer eg from nylon or PC (even then Voron recommends just ABS not ABS+). Thanks a lot :)
Right, I skipped the Z-hop, because I couldn't get it higher than 10mm/s in Cura. I suppose it is because I used the profile for MK3, but couldn't find how to remove this limitation even when creating a custom printer profile. What oil? I have some silicone grease in the chain but this is normally made for plastics. The grease from the linear rail?
@@3dpblog bearings have some oil and those are from China so it happens that they’re leaking :) That’s why PC isn’t recommended and also ABS has some flexibility so I’d rather to break some ABS part than some functional parts. About Z-Hop it’s enough 0.6mm and speed is enough for the beginning. Prusa has more settings :)
It looms like you're not reaching max velocity, or only reaching max velocity for very short distances, so if you want to decrease printing time further you probably need to upp your acceleration. This might also be why you didn't notice any difference between 200 and 300 mm/s.
There are actualy 2 small layer shifts and this is shown in the video. I think it was a slicer issue, because it didn't repeat on other prints. It may also be due to belts tightening, as at that time I was playing with the belt tensioners to find the optimum tightening.
I am sorry but that was not 300 mm/s, that looked like 40 mm/s. I think you had things going on in your slicer that were limiting your layer speeds, or your acceleration values weren't set correctly. I will gladly make a 150mm/s video for you if you would like with a ender 3 v2 to show you if you would like..
That is nowhere near 200 mm/s at any point. The acceleration looks to be set @ 1000-1500 mm/s2 and in this size you might hit 70 mm/s at the best which also explains the why you can not se the difference between 200 and 300 mm/s
Not sure you understand how speeds and acceleration work together. You are never reaching 200mm/s with that low acceleration 🤷♂️ I would estimate that you reached 150mm/s at the most. So of course you boost in print speed made no difference cause it never reached higher speeds.
Yeah, this video is quite old. At that time I've got many similar comments and I added additional tests with larger object in order to reach the speed. Check the description.
Yes, I updated the description and posted there small video with the cube resized x 3. I am printing this now with the same settings (200/80 for outer wall and 2000 acceleration). I will post soon a video with this test and some other prints. Thanks for helping on the other thread.
@@mitofun6967 Yes, I expected bigger difference. I think it is because the cube is small and there are some slow layers (2 bottom, outer layers and top layer) and retractions.
Yes, it is price optimized board with tmc2209, but it has just 4 drivers, which means you cant have a second extruder (The Afterburner print head has an option for Y-filament splitter with 2 extruders for 2 color printing). Other than that I find it quite robust and easy to setup.
Properly calibrate it? What do you mean with this. I spent a lot of time calibrating my 2.4, but for the switchwire all you I needed was to get equal tension of the belts and it prints with consistant quality since it was built. If by "proper calibration" you mean playing with accelerometers, yeah I dont need this for my use - ABS up to 80mm/s
really appreciate the well done subtitles on this, im hard of hearing so its nice to see people putting effort into quality captions. thanks for the switchwire review i think this is the one ill go for
Good choice. I've built already all Voron printers and each of them delivers, however the Switchwire has the best cost/quality/ease of use ratio.
Thanks for dropping a price estimate, I've been trying to find that for a while. The print quality paired with the speed seems astonishing! The Voron community is indeed very strong, I recently joined their discord and its worth joining if you're a 3d-printer enthusiast!
I'm very much looking into this printer, thanks for the overview. I think this is the best cartesian printer out there to date and I'm looking forward to build one :)
it’s not cartesian lol
I am finishing up my SW right now! So far its been a nice challenge to build but very rewarding
In the process of building a 2.4. Loving it so far. Switchwire also looks very interesting 👍
@@jernejj5 4 motors allows automatic bed leveling if the two right motor lift than the right will go up
Great content and Bulgarian accent :) Always warms my heart!
This is more Russian then Bulgarian
But last name is more Bulgarian. Lol.
Nice job. Looks like a fun project to work on over xmas break.
Thank you for your feedback on this printer. Do you have an idea of an estimate price for building the SW ?
I love the black linear rails!!!
What were your infill settings for the 3D printed objects.
I am wondering if the test cube actually got to higher speeds (and a shorter printing time) when you changed from 200 to 300mm p/s? Acceleration and braking curves for these short moves would be he limiting factor.
You are right. I made additional video. Pls check the video description.
Thank you for this video! I bought a delta because I wanted to print fast. I think I am going to pack up this flsun delta and start sourcing some parts!
A delta is for speed. The SW is not a fast machine, it is just fast and stable among printers with moving bed and direct extruder.
Awesome build! How did you connect the SKR mini to the display? my display has two EXP connectors but the SKR mini E v2 has only one.
The *slicer* is responsible for the layer shift?
Same here, I don't get how Cura could be responsible of layer shift...
Layer shift is usually due to fast travel moves,most likely in Y because bed can't move fast enough. I changed my bed from glass to pei sheet to reduce weight and increase bed speed.
16:25
Pressure advance works fine with klipper on 2208 thanks to the Kevin hack.
Linear advance doesn't work with standalone (stealthchop) 2208 in current Marlin version. But it could be fixed in the future.
Hi, I speak there abt Ender 3 v2 board. It runs on Marlin and it is not supplied with RPi :)
@@3dpblog You could use PC instead of berry. ;)
Better 2209 sensorless homing!
Hi! Could you make a video detailing how to make the electronics? Im not sure how to wire things up nor in wich order.
Love the colour!
If you have a particular question I could help, but I won't make a video for the wiring. The most important is to buy wires with PTFE isolation for the chains. I used 1.8 m wires from the board to the printhead (in order to have some spare lenght). The connections to the board are very easy - you need the picture of the board pins layout (3dpblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/skr-mini-e3-v2-pins.png), then check in the firmware supplied by Voron for E3 mini V2 to which pins is connected each component.
Hi, what leveling sensor do you use in this machine?
Really well done sir. Your neatness is commendable, I only hope my project turns out half as well in comparison. Also very curious what filament you used in this video, I really like it.
The speed is limited by feedrate and acceleration if in marlin you set 150 the max speed is 150 and it is if your acceleration will be 5000 ;) so your speed max is 80-100:)
This is Klipper. The only thing that could limit the speed would be something in the slicer I am not aware of. I just switched from Simplify3D to Cura.
Like mito pointed out, 2k accel will limit the speed, that toolhead didnt reach 300mms by a long way
Aron Janssen yep;) also the feedrate if it is 150 for x and y it will be max speed 150mm ;)
It is not necessary to guess the actual maximum printing speed. Give it a sufficiently long straight-line path (e.g., 250 mm) to print in the X direction and video record it with at least 60 fps (this gives about 17 ms per frame). Then review the video clip in a video editor and pay attention to the displayed elapsed time. Placing a tape on the bed with 10 mm spaced marks (in front of the line being printed) should give reasonably good estimates of the acceleration and deceleration times. Using a 120 fps video mode will allow sub-10ms time resolution.
👍what are the external dimensions of the printer
Hi, thanks for the video! I'm trying to decide, upgrade my ender 3 to Switchwire, or a completely new, build. Any recommendations? Where did you source your frame (fermio, lecktor )?
I ordered the frame direct from Misumi, but Fermio is almost the same price when the make a sale.
Any chance of you sharing your Slicer Profile for Cura.
Hi Pete, I switched to PrusaSlicer few months ago and I dont have it. It was slightly modified profile from my CR10, nothing special.
How difficult was it to source all the parts?
Can you please tell what is the total height of the machine without and with the spool on top? I could not find size of the machine itself anywhere, but I might fit it on a larger shelf close to my desktop. Hence the height is important to know.
Sorry for the late reply, I measured the height of the switchwire with the vibration dumper legs and spool - 75 cm, without spool and spool holder on top - 52 cm.
Hello:)
for what is the mosfet needed in this build?
In the original spec from Voron there is no mosfet specified (if Im not wrong), because the control board is capable to power the prusa bed directly. I installed a mosfet just for additional safety. Any 24 V / >20A mosfet is fine.
@@3dpblog thank you!!!:)
What do you mean when you say that the speed means something only for PLA?
That only with PLA you can go high speed. Also with PETG up to some extend. But for most other filaments like ABS, PC, TPU you are limited to slow speeds by the properties of this materials. For ABS I go max to 80 mm/s, PC and TPU at 40 mm/s.
@@3dpblog Ok, thank you!
technically with coreXZ you dont have a designated X and Z motors, just one A and one B motor, each moving the print head diagonally on the X-Z-Plane
Great video , can I print the parts with PETG instead of ABS ?
no because petg isn't as heat resistant as ABS and will deform
You can if you don't intend on enclosing it.
How can the layer shifts be due to the slicer?
That is my only explanation because I didnt witness lauer shifts on other prints and because the file for Adelinda was first converted from Prusa format.
@@3dpblog I still find it implausible that it’s caused by the slicer, and just because your printer hasn’t caused layer a shift before doesn’t mean that it won’t do so now. It could for example be the print warping slightly, causing the nozzle to bump into it and the Y motor skipping a few steps (if so, this would be solved by using z-hop). But I could of course be wrong, and if the layer shift really is caused by the slicer you should be able to see it if you open the gcode file in Cura.
Thanks for the information. Very good video. I'm planning to build a Voron this year. I like the Switch wire. I'm planning on buying good quality parts. If I can I'd like to buy some Prusa parts if possible. If not then I'd like to find better quality parts. Any other advice you have before I dive into this?
Get the best belts you can find - this is for me the most critical point. I use high temperature gates belts (they are a bit stifer than regular gates). Then for the linear rails Robotdigg is fine for me, but dont go cheaper than that. Some people complain about chineese bearings - i had no problems so far, but if you can find better - do it. Last - order proffessionally cutted and drilled frame profiles (Misumi/LDO).
@@3dpblog why do you use the high temp belts?
Thanks for the great video! Looking forward to going through your catalog!
Looks great. Curious how much it cost you in total to make this switch wire? Although nice, it seems quite expensive from what I read, might prefer to make 1.8 for the same money.
Around 650 usd. 1.8 is minimum 1000 if you respect the specs. The frame is 2x more expensive, then the mic6 plate and keenovo heater are the other big difference. I was considering the 1.8, but finally decided to go for 2.4 for my next build.
what do you use to make the polycarbonate printed part dont eat a part of the bed when you take it off
Hi, I normally have the oposite problem with PC - it is dificult to have it to stick well. Before I used PC sheet for the build surface, but here I needed good dimensional precision and I printed the PC parts on PEI at 120C. The smaller parts printed easy, for the big parts I used the following technique:
- First layer is from PC-ABS - it sticks well on the PEI;
- Then I change the filament with PC and it sticks great on the PC-ABS.p
@@3dpblog thanks a lot for the tip will try it
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Do you enclose when you print ABS? and if yes, what do you use as enclosure? I usually print 240/105 with chamber around 35 (I would like to reach 50 but can't, I use a delta for now... Building a 1.8).
Hi, I have a video for my enclosure - ua-cam.com/video/PUYUJ7Jo_kA/v-deo.html
I will enclose the Switchwire also when I have time.
Boron is good! Really like it!;)))
Question how did you code the mini display to go from red to green when the print starts?
This is just a start gcode in the slicer. You can set the color of the display in the top of the start code with:
SET_LED LED=fysetc_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0
and then after homing and ABL commands to set it to different color with the same command:
SET_LED LED=fysetc_mini12864 RED=0 GREEN=1 BLUE=0
fysetc_mini12864 is the definition of the display in Klipper.
BTW, if you are building this, check the voron discord group how to set the Fysetc display, because it requires some wiring modifications for the SKR E3 mini V2
How does uart work and why is it not possible to use linear advance without it?
Linear advance can be used with UART or SPI, and it doesn't work with standalone mode (legacy mode). I am not a guru in this area, so my explanation may be simplistic, but basically on the TMC 2208/09 drivers there is a UART pin (serial connection) and in this way the driver can be directly and dynamically controlled and monitored by the firmware. This gives you many new features, like setting the max driver currents or linear advance (pressure advance) values directly in Marlin or Klipper.
In standalone mode the firmware can not communicate directly with the stepper drivers, so for currents you have to play with Vrefs and there is no way to set linear advance.
@@3dpblog thank you for explaining
where to get the config file
The Klipper config? From Voron github.
Would it be fine to print the parts in PETG?
There were many similar questions before. You can go to Voron discord group and search for "PETG" to get better idea of user experience with PETG parts. Myself I didn't try because I printed with ABS (the recomended filament) except for some parts I printed with PC. I think the ABS is the official filament, because it is not only more resistent to temperature, but it is also softer and dumps vibrations better than PETG.
@@3dpblog if I set-up my Ender 3 Pro to print ABS I won't need to build this thing! I was planning on upgrading my hot-end anyway... might just buy a Prusa Mini Clone bear kit so I can print and use PETG parts...I'm not with the toxic ABS fumes
@@3dpblog I know I could pay for the parts to be printed in ABS but the price doesn't justify it unless I'm using it for business purposes IMO
Petg is gooood! Printing almost 1,5 year works very good!!!
@@mitofun6967 Whoo thank you! I just don't want to have to build a makeshift enclosure
Nice yob. Can you print whit PLA in white color, it would be better test, to se for imperfections. This filament hides imprefections, because of gliters. Cao.
Hi, the only white PLA I had was some very old sample. Here is the test you requested ua-cam.com/video/XCEJMlnAKCk/v-deo.html, however I think many of the artefacts are due to the filament being very old. I also got some warping with both test prints. Sorry, I print mainly ABS and don't have many PLA colors, normally I buy PLA only for a particular project.
Guys, this is NOT 200mm/s and certainly not 300mm/a. You cannot reach those speeds at 2000 acceleration. Change that to 5000mm/s2 maybe. Lol. That cube at a true 300mm/s should taken20minutes
I made already new tests with a larger part. This is too small to reach the speed indeed. Check the description.
Hello olive tour green color Can you tell me thé références pls
Tanks and good job
To me those speeds are no faster than a stock Prusa can go. I think this is capable of far more, but you need to crank the acceleration and jerk settings way up. I think my Railcore is at 5,000 acceleration, and 14 on Jerk.
This is a printer with a moving bed, not a corexy voron 2.4 or a railcore. I would compare it with Prusa indeed, with few advantages. Check my other tests (in the description). With 2000 accel. and 200mm/s max speed I start getting some ringing on the Y, though the belt of the bed is very tight. For me this is the limit acceleration for moving bed in order to get quality prints.
@@3dpblog I understand... but to say it’s printing at 150 or 200 mm/s isn’t accurate. It’s not printing that fast. It’s physically impossible. I’d be happy to show you guys what a true 150, 200 even 400mm/s looks like. It’s mind boggling fast.
The reason I commented is I see this all the time. People claim “I can’t print at 200mm/s”, but you’re not really. If that cube took 45 minutes my guess is it’s truly printing at 60mm/a.
@@thelightspeed3d712 Normaly 2000mm/s2 should accelerate the print head from 0 to 200mm/s for 0.1s
www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration
Maybe in a printer there are many other latencies and delays down to the stepper reaction, so for this small cube the speed doesnt reach 200. For the big cube from my second test though (check the video description) it certainly goes to that speed on longer lines.
Thinking about converting my ender 3 to a switchwire😅
Nice ;) You haven't tell the major advantage of CoreXZ and SW build and you haven't use it at all :( The purpose of that fast Z movement is z-hop :) It makes some detail objects way easy to print cause the head moves and not braking parts. Also about non ABS components... PC would be weaker if oil get out of some of the metal mechanical pars. It has been design and build out of ABS on purpose ;) Only the cooling duct should be printer eg from nylon or PC (even then Voron recommends just ABS not ABS+). Thanks a lot :)
Right, I skipped the Z-hop, because I couldn't get it higher than 10mm/s in Cura. I suppose it is because I used the profile for MK3, but couldn't find how to remove this limitation even when creating a custom printer profile. What oil? I have some silicone grease in the chain but this is normally made for plastics. The grease from the linear rail?
@@3dpblog bearings have some oil and those are from China so it happens that they’re leaking :) That’s why PC isn’t recommended and also ABS has some flexibility so I’d rather to break some ABS part than some functional parts. About Z-Hop it’s enough 0.6mm and speed is enough for the beginning. Prusa has more settings :)
Why they call is a XYcore if it is just a more prettier Bed slinger powered by klipper? there is a TRUE XY core transformation mod out there
This coreXZ, not core XY
It looms like you're not reaching max velocity, or only reaching max velocity for very short distances, so if you want to decrease printing time further you probably need to upp your acceleration. This might also be why you didn't notice any difference between 200 and 300 mm/s.
Yes, pls read the description, there is link to additional tests.
nice
I see a massive layershift on the dragon
There are actualy 2 small layer shifts and this is shown in the video. I think it was a slicer issue, because it didn't repeat on other prints. It may also be due to belts tightening, as at that time I was playing with the belt tensioners to find the optimum tightening.
I don't get the point of corexz tho.
Faster X and Z (z hop) movements with direct print head and elimination of all leadscrew related issues.
I am sorry but that was not 300 mm/s, that looked like 40 mm/s. I think you had things going on in your slicer that were limiting your layer speeds, or your acceleration values weren't set correctly. I will gladly make a 150mm/s video for you if you would like with a ender 3 v2 to show you if you would like..
Read the description. I made another 200mm/s test with bigger cube that alows to reach the speed.
That is nowhere near 200 mm/s at any point. The acceleration looks to be set @ 1000-1500 mm/s2 and in this size you might hit 70 mm/s at the best which also explains the why you can not se the difference between 200 and 300 mm/s
Yes, the size of the cube is too small to reach the speed. Check the description, there is another video with larger cube.
Not sure you understand how speeds and acceleration work together. You are never reaching 200mm/s with that low acceleration 🤷♂️
I would estimate that you reached 150mm/s at the most. So of course you boost in print speed made no difference cause it never reached higher speeds.
Yeah, this video is quite old. At that time I've got many similar comments and I added additional tests with larger object in order to reach the speed. Check the description.
This is not true 200 mm/s!
Yes, I updated the description and posted there small video with the cube resized x 3. I am printing this now with the same settings (200/80 for outer wall and 2000 acceleration). I will post soon a video with this test and some other prints. Thanks for helping on the other thread.
I printing it in 50 minuts the speed 80/40:)))
80mm/s gives 1 hour 5 minutes. I printed the cube with 1mm wall everywhere (5 bottom/top layers, 2 for the walls at 0.2 mm) and 20% infill.
@@3dpblog ok need to try it) but actually 200 mm and 80 no big difference at time(((
@@mitofun6967 Yes, I expected bigger difference. I think it is because the cube is small and there are some slow layers (2 bottom, outer layers and top layer) and retractions.
@@3dpblog yep on the big details it will be clearly viewed!)))) i have noticed also on the small details there is no need for high speed!)))
@@mitofun6967 у него не 200 мм/с на марлине 200 летает так, что принтер по столу чуть прыгать не начинает. Где-то он что-то неправильно настроил.
I like everything but the motherboard.
Yes, it is price optimized board with tmc2209, but it has just 4 drivers, which means you cant have a second extruder (The Afterburner print head has an option for Y-filament splitter with 2 extruders for 2 color printing). Other than that I find it quite robust and easy to setup.
Лэт ми спик фром май харт
Da, is beink most bestest printer because has Russian name. 😉
Quality is awesome??? Sorry but where? You even don’t spend a time to properly calibrate it. The video is about nothing!
Properly calibrate it? What do you mean with this. I spent a lot of time calibrating my 2.4, but for the switchwire all you I needed was to get equal tension of the belts and it prints with consistant quality since it was built. If by "proper calibration" you mean playing with accelerometers, yeah I dont need this for my use - ABS up to 80mm/s