This is brilliant! You state this mod makes no sense and is expensive but I disagree. Many folks (including myself) start 3D printing with a Ender 3 V2 because they are a good first step 3D printer. But then after 1 year I grow impatient waiting for prints to complete because it is slow. To keep it running I have had to upgrade many components such as extruder, springs, hot end, and fans after 1 year of moderate use. So why throw out the Ender 3 V2 and start over? The Ender 3 V2 has a frame, power supply, and print bed that work. I really like the idea of "up-cycling" my Ender 3 V2 and turing it into a Voron Switchwire. I don't have room for a large number of printers! As I understand it I can invest another $300 - $400 and then have a much faster and more reliable 3D printer? Bonus is it won't take extra room. I am interested in seeing more videos showcasing the speed and reliability of this modification, does it work just as good as a stock Voron Switchwire?
I was working on polishing the details and making sure printer as good as finished product... I'll get better soon and finally finish it. Main reason why i decide to upgrade is I don't need full size Voron Switchwire I never used full bed and you are right about most parts can be reused, I even re-used lead screw from left over parts in other ender 3 I had.
I couldn't agree more. I had my ender 3 v2 for about 6 months when i decided to get into the voron community by converting it to a switchwire. I used the converted ender to print all parts for my Voron V2 and is currently in the works of printing parts for a v0.1 while the v2 is printing trident parts :D
I just got the Ender 3 V2 and I am researching my upgrade path to Switchwire. I am hoping to upgrade step by step over the next year's. I already got the printer running via Klipper and I am planning to build a enclosure with fan, which also needs an 3d printer to make. So in the end, when I want to upgrade something, I try to match it with parts from Switchwire.
@@NanneWielinga Next step after having a printer to get new hotend and clone or original bondtech extruder, one advice is to buy whole extruder as its only few extra $ and can be used even you will change the opinion to convert over SW as it's nice extruder. About hotend: all-metal V6 is not losing much to more expensive hotends as regular dragon in terms of a flow (if you have money you can buy a good one). So for ~30-40$ you can get very nice direct drive upgrade with V6
Last weekend I finished every small detail that bothered me and now it fells like this build is finished and I am currently working on more detailed video I wish some one have done before I started... There are few details that can make this build easier...
@@hobbyistnotes Sounds great, really looking forward to that new video as I am planning to do the same conversion myself, and there isn't a lot of info about it out there, other than the STL files. Cheers!
I built my ender 3v2 to the point where I have everything I need to build another one, so I picked up a 3v2 frame with gantry on ebay and a couple parts I needed (stepper motors, heated bed etc) I have been looking to build either a voron trident or possibly a vz bot, but this might hold me over for a bit! Very cool stuff
Totally understand you, I have parts now for 2-3 more Enders 3 was thinking mb to try some custom core XY build out of those parts I wish to have more time.
@@hobbyistnotes same man! These 10hr days are rough, but I like the money. If you make a video on it I would love to follow along and get you some views and likes. Ill sub now and keep my eyes out for it!
I've had my Ender 3v2 for about a year and a half and it actually prints excellent even on the stock extruder. The problem with it is the cheap extruder and the bed springs that constantly need maintenance and calibration. I'm currently investing another 300 or so this year to convert it to a more modern platform. I don't mind it since the only realistic upgrade I see for a hobbyist like me is a Bambu. And I don't want to spend 1k+ anytime soon to have modern features.
I love how you put it, The most expensive and stupid upgrade of an Ender 3. I started mine too, but i would not call it a Creality Ender anymore, it does not good. I Put a Mellow Fly RRF E3 replacement board in it running Reprap. sensorless and all, only the Frame extrusions are what i consider Ender.
@Hobbyist Notes I like it because it requires less wires. But setting it up is a bit more work, adjusting the power and so, but I have it on 2 of my 3 printers.
Hi Mate are you using Fluid with Klipper? cause it looks little diffrent than Mainsail.I am also considering for upgrade however I have 6 Ender 3 v2 Neo's and v2 Neo's have S1 Pro Gantry on X axis and same Y axis configuration as Ender 3 v2 so my upgrade will be little more challenging cause the 2020 aluminium profile front is flat and can not attach V-Slot nuts.... 😒 I want to upgrade them with linear rails so I don't need to change lots of V-Slot Wheels in future. Do you think is upgrade worth the time and money?
Yes, I used Fluidd in this video as I liked it more but now mainsail is way better. Upgrade question is very tricky cus now for the price of the upgrade you can probably got urself used or broken for repair Creality K1 of eBay or something similar which will be better in a lot of ways. These days this upgrade make sense only if you have parts on hands or you up to challange.
Hello. I have every Ender 3 and displayed mod will fit any of them without adjustments, that is why I don't have V2 in the title. The only difference you will need skirts to make it look nicer at the front but that doesn't affect functionality.
Рік тому+1
Hey man. Nice project and I actually started to make mine but I'm on v4.2.7 board instead of buying skr e3 is it possible to use 4.2.2 config with 4.2.7? do you know if I need to change anything? I want to ask you before I dig into maybe you'd know if it's same or not. Thank you again.
You might need to adjust klipper config a bit as pins of the controller could be different, compare 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 configs from klipper repo. I would take heatsink out of one driver to verify which drivers you have installed. I suggest to buy a new/other board that will give you opportunity to run drivers in UART as it will be 30-40$ well invest money that might save a lot of nerve and time. In theory you can convert/mod Creality board drivers in UART mod but based on your questions I assume it might not be an option for your knowledge/skill level, I might be wrong.
Рік тому
@@hobbyistnotes I have no problem with electronics. Im already using skr boards on my other printers but there is that e3p with v4. 2.7 board which I've never had to dig deep since all my focus was on my other printers. so I just wanted to ask because since you did the project maybe you'll have the answers before I invest time in my own project :)
@ Unfortunately I don't remember out of my head if there are too many differences, I have 2 boards 4.2.2 and one 4.2.7 and klipper installations was super fast just pulling config of repo adjusting E-steps and good to go... Now PA bug fixed those boards with UART mod could be more than enough for Ender to Switchwire conversion. Take a look at this topic: www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/n3clew/ender_3v2_422427_board_tmc_uart_mods/
It's incredible, can you tell me ballpark guess of what you paid? I am going to do it to a cr10 v3. I have the skr 2, screen, hotend, pi4, power supplies and motors?
I think it was closer to 250-300$, there is a lot of things you can save on, I listed most of the parts I used in to the description so... you can make your own research what it will be specifically for you considering what you have. Overall financially this mod doesn't make much sense, it's only for people who want to experiment and have fun tinkering, as for this price itself you can find a printer that will print with a good quality with good speeds.
@@hobbyistnotes yeah I think I'm just gonna build a 2.4. I'm opening an ebay store selling two tone abs voron parts. I can make 2 sets a week so it shouldn't take me long to just plop the money on a 350mm kit. I just bought all new gear for my workshop or else I'd have a 2.5. Soldering stations, function generator, hot air rework station, pc, oscilloscope. All of this along with a 70 dollar a week led collection habit. I lost count of how many types of leds I have and just have to guess in pounds now hahaha I'm a sucker for them. It started when I bought all the stock of neopixel strips from a seller early last year and now it's all different through hole ones. I buy 100 pl9823 8mm round head leds a week along with other kinds. If I had to guess I'd say I have close to 80k leds not including strips of adressable ones. Lol
Can you explain how to config an pln80 or omron tl-q5m on the ender? I am using a skr mini e3 v2 on an ender 3, already have the sensor/mount installed and have a pei bed.
Can you please give me a link to the stl files that you printed for this mod? Also ...can I run klipper with a pi4 and arduino mega + ramps combo? Thanks in advance!!
All links are in to the description. Based on breef research looks like it's possible to run Klipper with Mega Ramps combo as most work will be done by RPI, but as I have 0 live experience with this setup I can't say for sure.
i always thought that Core XZ was a bad idea, but now that i think it, you wouldn´t have to deal whith z banding that is une of the hardest problems to deal with and that is amazing, also is almost like you have double z axis, a have an Artillery sw x1 and this looks like a good idea
Totally agree with you! That freaking elephant foot was driving me crazy as one of the most horrible effects of Z-binding and there was no settings or "easy mods" that could totally eliminate it... If be honest after making this mod I ASSUMED it's will not be a sustainable as "stable system" due to over complicated motion system, but since upgrade I had 0-issues with it and the only thing I had to do is to update the firmware which wasn't really a "Must" and over all one click action with Klipper. For me this pinter just Slice -> Print and considering the speed quality is pretty good too. The only real downside is the Price...
@@StefanoMerinoDeRui There is a lot of versions of this mod, I think you can easily find one that suits the parts you might have on hands, good luck with the build!
Cus wanted CoreXZ motion system and had Nice donor. New stealthburner Is significantly better at bridging. Bigger fan really helps to have extra airflow, previous was not enough.
I didn’t really had speed printing in mind and haven’t really pushed it as much. Might need some hight flow hot end but kinematics itself is very capable.
Can you tell me total amount of money spent on this conversion? I'm new in this topic and until now I was interested of building a voron 01 but this is more reliable solution, just wonder how much it cost
If you do it my way you loose about 5mm on Y-axis but it's only if you use second row of screws at the bottom, but if you use extrusion nuts and move bed a bit more forward no loose of printing area at all. For me 5mm is not critical I have never used full bed so I went for a lazy way.
@@hobbyistnotes so odd question, are the Hammer nuts and T nuts the same as the spring nuts? Just trying to source materials for my build, I've got most of the actual parts laying around
@@mugeshrajaram6306 I would start with checking screw holes positions of the rail carriage if they are at the same distance as MGN12 it should actually work fine. Also you can use project cads for size references. Links to the projects I used are in to the description. Also I am prepping second video about changes I had to make in order to finish the mod.
Board and Pi communicate via UART, also it powers up Pi via GPIO which is very convenient. I will add link in to the description to a Nero 3D's video where setup is explained.
@@hobbyistnotes alright thanks for that. I think I plan to reuse the y Pom wheels like you did. One less railing to buy actually makes a difference in the budget .
@@nilsirrah7672 I just don’t see much benefit of changing wheels to the rails on Y axis. May be I am loosing small amount of vertical space but I never use full size anyway.
@@bayunugrahasuparto9639 They are, most people running original motors with this mod. Also 17HS15-1504S1 motors are 10$ a piece even you find original being "slow" it's easy to replace.
@@PhilippAndre_ I am working on a full summary video about this mod and there I’ll compare it to a Dual-Z Ender 3 that I have. As I mentioned before this mod isn’t really about print quality, so do not expect day and night difference.
noooo dont use superlube... it's too expensive for what it is, take special bearing grease which is much more efficient and much cheaper, the price per kilo is less expensive than your tube...
I am not using any custom macroses (default Fluid Pi only). Currently preparing the printer for Serial Request. After that will start working on optimizations.
Who said we know? I contacted manufacturer before procedure, they approved this lubricant, warned me it will not be as smooth but PTFE will last longer than oil used by them.
@@hobbyistnotes okay that makes sense but you are by far not the only one. Every build video I watch the people do this, never with an explanation other than "the original lubrication is crap"
@@pixartist8190 Cheap rails have very long history of using very crappy lubricant that was jamming and mashing the balls... I think that is the reason why...
@@pixartist8190 No, this manufacturer didn't say much about quality or type of the lube they used and that is the problem when you want to add it. So 'we' are making safe assumption in this case that manufacturer saves money on everything making cheap rails, that is why it's easier to replace lube with your own quality one right away while it's not on the printer.
@@hobbyistnoteshaha yeah there is a point where there is little to gain from practical upgrades where you chasing for that 0.01% but can’t hurt other than your wallet 😂
This is brilliant! You state this mod makes no sense and is expensive but I disagree. Many folks (including myself) start 3D printing with a Ender 3 V2 because they are a good first step 3D printer. But then after 1 year I grow impatient waiting for prints to complete because it is slow. To keep it running I have had to upgrade many components such as extruder, springs, hot end, and fans after 1 year of moderate use. So why throw out the Ender 3 V2 and start over? The Ender 3 V2 has a frame, power supply, and print bed that work. I really like the idea of "up-cycling" my Ender 3 V2 and turing it into a Voron Switchwire. I don't have room for a large number of printers! As I understand it I can invest another $300 - $400 and then have a much faster and more reliable 3D printer? Bonus is it won't take extra room. I am interested in seeing more videos showcasing the speed and reliability of this modification, does it work just as good as a stock Voron Switchwire?
I was working on polishing the details and making sure printer as good as finished product... I'll get better soon and finally finish it. Main reason why i decide to upgrade is I don't need full size Voron Switchwire I never used full bed and you are right about most parts can be reused, I even re-used lead screw from left over parts in other ender 3 I had.
@@hobbyistnotes I am sorry to hear you got COVID. I hope you get better ASAP.....the videos can wait your health is more important!
I couldn't agree more. I had my ender 3 v2 for about 6 months when i decided to get into the voron community by converting it to a switchwire. I used the converted ender to print all parts for my Voron V2 and is currently in the works of printing parts for a v0.1 while the v2 is printing trident parts :D
I just got the Ender 3 V2 and I am researching my upgrade path to Switchwire. I am hoping to upgrade step by step over the next year's. I already got the printer running via Klipper and I am planning to build a enclosure with fan, which also needs an 3d printer to make. So in the end, when I want to upgrade something, I try to match it with parts from Switchwire.
@@NanneWielinga Next step after having a printer to get new hotend and clone or original bondtech extruder, one advice is to buy whole extruder as its only few extra $ and can be used even you will change the opinion to convert over SW as it's nice extruder. About hotend: all-metal V6 is not losing much to more expensive hotends as regular dragon in terms of a flow (if you have money you can buy a good one). So for ~30-40$ you can get very nice direct drive upgrade with V6
Absolutely brilliant work, I will be doing this and 400mm Ender extender to my Ender 3! Thx you
Thank you!
I am planning the same thing
IZzy how did it go? this is my goal also, but I havent started yet
@Daniel G It took me a long time to get it done, but it was worth it.
"Most stupid conversion..." that was my very first thought when i saw the title :D
Realistically, nothing to add ;-) but it's a still pretty cool mod after all.
I just bought a broken ender 3 and this was the first thing I was thinking about doing to it glad I found your video
Last weekend I finished every small detail that bothered me and now it fells like this build is finished and I am currently working on more detailed video I wish some one have done before I started... There are few details that can make this build easier...
@@hobbyistnotes Sounds great, really looking forward to that new video as I am planning to do the same conversion myself, and there isn't a lot of info about it out there, other than the STL files. Cheers!
I built my ender 3v2 to the point where I have everything I need to build another one, so I picked up a 3v2 frame with gantry on ebay and a couple parts I needed (stepper motors, heated bed etc) I have been looking to build either a voron trident or possibly a vz bot, but this might hold me over for a bit! Very cool stuff
Totally understand you, I have parts now for 2-3 more Enders 3 was thinking mb to try some custom core XY build out of those parts I wish to have more time.
@@hobbyistnotes same man! These 10hr days are rough, but I like the money. If you make a video on it I would love to follow along and get you some views and likes. Ill sub now and keep my eyes out for it!
I've had my Ender 3v2 for about a year and a half and it actually prints excellent even on the stock extruder. The problem with it is the cheap extruder and the bed springs that constantly need maintenance and calibration. I'm currently investing another 300 or so this year to convert it to a more modern platform. I don't mind it since the only realistic upgrade I see for a hobbyist like me is a Bambu. And I don't want to spend 1k+ anytime soon to have modern features.
That is one of the issues with all cheap printers eventually you will spend more money on upgrades…
@@hobbyistnotes The upgrades are fun though
@@NO_obs Hard to argue with that 😅
Cool video this gives me inspiration to try on my old CR-10
Glad to 'hear' that! Those CR-10 times, mmm... I had Tevo Tornado back then...
Same here! just built a V2.4 and I have the itch hahaha
Did you do it? I have a CR-10 v2 laying around collecting dust. I stopped using it because the glass it warped and it’s slow.
I love how you put it, The most expensive and stupid upgrade of an Ender 3. I started mine too, but i would not call it a Creality Ender anymore, it does not good. I Put a Mellow Fly RRF E3 replacement board in it running Reprap. sensorless and all, only the Frame extrusions are what i consider Ender.
It's definitely nice engineering challenge =) and I agree about it not being an Ender Anymore. Do you like sensorless homing?
@Hobbyist Notes I like it because it requires less wires. But setting it up is a bit more work, adjusting the power and so, but I have it on 2 of my 3 printers.
@@martijndeman4789 I spent some time on it but never got results satisfying enough to throw away the switches...
Hi Mate are you using Fluid with Klipper? cause it looks little diffrent than Mainsail.I am also considering for upgrade however I have 6 Ender 3 v2 Neo's and v2 Neo's have S1 Pro Gantry on X axis and same Y axis configuration as Ender 3 v2 so my upgrade will be little more challenging cause the 2020 aluminium profile front is flat and can not attach V-Slot nuts.... 😒 I want to upgrade them with linear rails so I don't need to change lots of V-Slot Wheels in future. Do you think is upgrade worth the time and money?
Yes, I used Fluidd in this video as I liked it more but now mainsail is way better. Upgrade question is very tricky cus now for the price of the upgrade you can probably got urself used or broken for repair Creality K1 of eBay or something similar which will be better in a lot of ways. These days this upgrade make sense only if you have parts on hands or you up to challange.
You should probably put V2 in the title. I'm looking for videos on original Ender 3 conversions, and this video popped up
Hello. I have every Ender 3 and displayed mod will fit any of them without adjustments, that is why I don't have V2 in the title. The only difference you will need skirts to make it look nicer at the front but that doesn't affect functionality.
Hey man. Nice project and I actually started to make mine but I'm on v4.2.7 board instead of buying skr e3 is it possible to use 4.2.2 config with 4.2.7? do you know if I need to change anything? I want to ask you before I dig into maybe you'd know if it's same or not. Thank you again.
You might need to adjust klipper config a bit as pins of the controller could be different, compare 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 configs from klipper repo. I would take heatsink out of one driver to verify which drivers you have installed. I suggest to buy a new/other board that will give you opportunity to run drivers in UART as it will be 30-40$ well invest money that might save a lot of nerve and time. In theory you can convert/mod Creality board drivers in UART mod but based on your questions I assume it might not be an option for your knowledge/skill level, I might be wrong.
@@hobbyistnotes I have no problem with electronics. Im already using skr boards on my other printers but there is that e3p with v4. 2.7 board which I've never had to dig deep since all my focus was on my other printers. so I just wanted to ask because since you did the project maybe you'll have the answers before I invest time in my own project :)
@ Unfortunately I don't remember out of my head if there are too many differences, I have 2 boards 4.2.2 and one 4.2.7 and klipper installations was super fast just pulling config of repo adjusting E-steps and good to go... Now PA bug fixed those boards with UART mod could be more than enough for Ender to Switchwire conversion. Take a look at this topic: www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/n3clew/ender_3v2_422427_board_tmc_uart_mods/
@@hobbyistnotes thanks man appreciate it
@ I thought to make video about this mod.... Have those boards laying around with no use....
It's incredible, can you tell me ballpark guess of what you paid? I am going to do it to a cr10 v3. I have the skr 2, screen, hotend, pi4, power supplies and motors?
I think it was closer to 250-300$, there is a lot of things you can save on, I listed most of the parts I used in to the description so... you can make your own research what it will be specifically for you considering what you have. Overall financially this mod doesn't make much sense, it's only for people who want to experiment and have fun tinkering, as for this price itself you can find a printer that will print with a good quality with good speeds.
@@hobbyistnotes yeah I think I'm just gonna build a 2.4. I'm opening an ebay store selling two tone abs voron parts. I can make 2 sets a week so it shouldn't take me long to just plop the money on a 350mm kit. I just bought all new gear for my workshop or else I'd have a 2.5. Soldering stations, function generator, hot air rework station, pc, oscilloscope. All of this along with a 70 dollar a week led collection habit. I lost count of how many types of leds I have and just have to guess in pounds now hahaha I'm a sucker for them. It started when I bought all the stock of neopixel strips from a seller early last year and now it's all different through hole ones. I buy 100 pl9823 8mm round head leds a week along with other kinds. If I had to guess I'd say I have close to 80k leds not including strips of adressable ones. Lol
@@jstro-hobbytech Because Why not ;-) hahahha!
Thats some nice modding!
Thank you 🙏
Can you explain how to config an pln80 or omron tl-q5m on the ender? I am using a skr mini e3 v2 on an ender 3, already have the sensor/mount installed and have a pei bed.
What firmware?
What was the cost of the conversion?
Around ~300$ you can find part 2 of this conversion on the channel.
@@hobbyistnotes Thanks!
Can you please give me a link to the stl files that you printed for this mod? Also ...can I run klipper with a pi4 and arduino mega + ramps combo? Thanks in advance!!
All links are in to the description. Based on breef research looks like it's possible to run Klipper with Mega Ramps combo as most work will be done by RPI, but as I have 0 live experience with this setup I can't say for sure.
@@hobbyistnotes thanks man. And love your work. Best of luck!!
You so passioned about it :)
Hi sir How long need to trim or cut the x axis aluminium frame profiles for install the MGH 280mm and the x axis side belt bracket
320mm
i always thought that Core XZ was a bad idea, but now that i think it, you wouldn´t have to deal whith z banding that is une of the hardest problems to deal with and that is amazing, also is almost like you have double z axis, a have an Artillery sw x1 and this looks like a good idea
Totally agree with you! That freaking elephant foot was driving me crazy as one of the most horrible effects of Z-binding and there was no settings or "easy mods" that could totally eliminate it... If be honest after making this mod I ASSUMED it's will not be a sustainable as "stable system" due to over complicated motion system, but since upgrade I had 0-issues with it and the only thing I had to do is to update the firmware which wasn't really a "Must" and over all one click action with Klipper. For me this pinter just Slice -> Print and considering the speed quality is pretty good too. The only real downside is the Price...
@@hobbyistnotes i already have klipper installed so that would be no problem, and i found a proyect called switchwinder that coul maybe help me.
@@StefanoMerinoDeRui There is a lot of versions of this mod, I think you can easily find one that suits the parts you might have on hands, good luck with the build!
Why!?? Also, Why not?
How is the cooling compared with the afterburner that uses a 4020 instead?
Cus wanted CoreXZ motion system and had Nice donor. New stealthburner Is significantly better at bridging. Bigger fan really helps to have extra airflow, previous was not enough.
Voron Switchwire why does it print so slowly? I have seen Vorons usually do 1000 mm/s?
I didn’t really had speed printing in mind and haven’t really pushed it as much. Might need some hight flow hot end but kinematics itself is very capable.
Can you tell me total amount of money spent on this conversion?
I'm new in this topic and until now I was interested of building a voron 01 but this is more reliable solution, just wonder how much it cost
Hello, take a look at the second video, I touched this topic out there.
can you share printer.cfg for ender 3 v2 switchwire conversion?
I added configs to my Git-Hub repo, you will find a link in to the description.
@@hobbyistnotes thanks for sharing
Can I use all 300 mm linear guides? I can't find the 280mm one
The rail sizes are very precise, but you can buy longer rails and cut them to the size.
So let me get this straight with this mod you don't lose any of the ender 3's build volume?
If you do it my way you loose about 5mm on Y-axis but it's only if you use second row of screws at the bottom, but if you use extrusion nuts and move bed a bit more forward no loose of printing area at all. For me 5mm is not critical I have never used full bed so I went for a lazy way.
@@hobbyistnotes so odd question, are the Hammer nuts and T nuts the same as the spring nuts? Just trying to source materials for my build, I've got most of the actual parts laying around
@@captainthiccnick No those are different things but you can use T-Nuts it's just odd behind the rail to see if they actually turned all the way.
Is that possible to use linear rails HGH15CA or HGH15CC instead of MGN12 which you used in this video.
As I don't have those rails on hands i can't say for sure, but with 3D printing "everything" possible. You just will need to adjust parts...
@@hobbyistnotes Okay let me try, thanks for your reply.
@@mugeshrajaram6306 I would start with checking screw holes positions of the rail carriage if they are at the same distance as MGN12 it should actually work fine. Also you can use project cads for size references. Links to the projects I used are in to the description. Also I am prepping second video about changes I had to make in order to finish the mod.
@@hobbyistnotes Thank you, reply me if the holes matches with MGN12. I'll also check from my end.
@@mugeshrajaram6306 Sorry, but I don't have time and rail on hands to compare, you will have to do it yourself.
I have a tevo black widow. Do you think this mod possible?
Not sure if you will gain much, but I think if you have CAD knowledge I would say it is.
It's still a shitty bed slinger right? I mean it's an ender on linear rails. I don't see this as a real core xy. What's the little voron you have?
No it’s not the same as stock Ender, it has different type of kinematics - CoreXZ.
Aw, man. This is me in a couple years. Hell, this is almost me right now 😅
😅
What material did you use for the 3D printed parts?
KVP ABS Voron Red, Hatchbox ABS Blue, eSun ABS+ Black
@@hobbyistnotes excellent, thank you :)
looking at upgrading as i am tired of z binding from ender3v2
I would suggest think twice, before upgrading it. I know comment is a bit late.
Kevinakasam belted z mod.
Mgn12c or mgn12h linear rails?
I have used H and everyone use H in enderwire kits.
Things could be worse. You could be into modifying cars. I'll probably attempt something like this on my V2 one day.
lol, good luck ;-)
@@hobbyistnotes I appreciate the videos! It gives newbies like me confidence to attempt it myself.
how are u connecting the PI to the board without usb cable
Board and Pi communicate via UART, also it powers up Pi via GPIO which is very convenient. I will add link in to the description to a Nero 3D's video where setup is explained.
@@hobbyistnotes alright thanks for that. I think I plan to reuse the y Pom wheels like you did. One less railing to buy actually makes a difference in the budget .
@@nilsirrah7672 I just don’t see much benefit of changing wheels to the rails on Y axis. May be I am loosing small amount of vertical space but I never use full size anyway.
How much did the new bom cost?
Sorry, what do you mean new? The total price is: Ender 3 + ~300$ in extra parts.
what termistor type your using?
I used Triangle labs 50W Cartridge and Stock Ender's 3 glass thermistor (just crimped it with included Dragonfly hotend tube)
do you have a discord channel?
@@madorax251 Nope, but I feel like it's time to make one, I'll take a look later.
what vref voltage your using stock ender 3 v4.2.2?
What is the benefit of this against standard Ender 3?
You can take a look at the second part, I gave my honest opinion: ua-cam.com/video/lVI2LtyCInw/v-deo.html
In short: Direct Drive, Auto Bed leveling, No lead screw related issues, No wheels wear, faster and more consistent Z-Hop
Use original stepper stock ender?
You can, I just used bigger original extruder motors cus had plans to print fast and I had them on hands.
@@hobbyistnotesCan the original stepper print quickly?
@@bayunugrahasuparto9639 They are, most people running original motors with this mod. Also 17HS15-1504S1 motors are 10$ a piece even you find original being "slow" it's easy to replace.
What is the total cost so I can determine if I want to upgrade?
I think it's more than 300$, hard to put all numbers together cus I had a lot of things on my hands and build still aren't finished all the way.
@@hobbyistnotes Cool. It might be better for me to just wait for a Voron 2.4
@@marcosramirez385 There are so many good printers you can get for that price especially if we will add original Ender 3 Price to it.
did print quality improve? or same?
Improved, but this modification was never about print quality :-)
@@PhilippAndre_ I am working on a full summary video about this mod and there I’ll compare it to a Dual-Z Ender 3 that I have. As I mentioned before this mod isn’t really about print quality, so do not expect day and night difference.
Hi, where to buy the led lights?
If you are talking about tool head LEDs I got those: www.adafruit.com/product/4776
@@hobbyistnotes thank you! Nice build there😊
noooo dont use superlube... it's too expensive for what it is, take special bearing grease which is much more efficient and much cheaper, the price per kilo is less expensive than your tube...
True, but too late 👨🔧also it's not like I am going to spend this tube in my life time, so it's not a big deal ether.
Cant your share macro.cfg your using?
I am not using any custom macroses (default Fluid Pi only). Currently preparing the printer for Serial Request. After that will start working on optimizations.
@@hobbyistnotes I mean start print and the prime line macro you are using.
@@lanypuspasari1868 So, the start clean-line is from CURA default settings for Ender 3. I guess you can put it as ur start print macros.
Why does everybody think they know how to lubricate everything better than the manufacturer?
Who said we know? I contacted manufacturer before procedure, they approved this lubricant, warned me it will not be as smooth but PTFE will last longer than oil used by them.
@@hobbyistnotes okay that makes sense but you are by far not the only one. Every build video I watch the people do this, never with an explanation other than "the original lubrication is crap"
@@hobbyistnotes did they say how long their oil would last?
@@pixartist8190 Cheap rails have very long history of using very crappy lubricant that was jamming and mashing the balls... I think that is the reason why...
@@pixartist8190 No, this manufacturer didn't say much about quality or type of the lube they used and that is the problem when you want to add it. So 'we' are making safe assumption in this case that manufacturer saves money on everything making cheap rails, that is why it's easier to replace lube with your own quality one right away while it's not on the printer.
nothing is stuipd about upgrading an ender 3 i done something similar expect it not even a switchwire yet but already cost me alot
Practical side of me disagree with you BUT creative side all in, things not always have to be practical.
@@hobbyistnoteshaha yeah there is a point where there is little to gain from practical upgrades where you chasing for that 0.01% but can’t hurt other than your wallet 😂
Русский?
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