Great information. Much appreciated. There are lots of video on UA-cam that are all over the place with information. This was very helpful. Simplicity to the max. I am new to the motorized bicycle game. Much love from So-Cal.
@@wtmotobikes8838 what does it mean if I put new pads in and adjusted the clutch just like that but it seems to still be slipping instead of holding tight against the pads
What can you tell me about spark plug gaps for single electrode NGK B5HS plugs? More to the point, I've seen recommendations to gap from .26 to .36 " . There ought to be a way to say "OK, the motor is doing this, or that; I'm running a break in mixture or I'm running 92 octane with the engine run in and 32 to one so I should gap the plug at ----- (fill in the blank). This can't be rocket science. I'm not racing, or planning to at my age, I just want the engine to run well and last a while. Any help you could give me would be really appreciated. As you know, there ain't no manual with these whiz bangs.
Here’s a helpful hint on this subject. Sorry for a 3 year late reply lol. The closer you gap the plug, the higher the resistance to compression spark knockout you get, the higher Rpms you can achieve. That means the compression will not stomp out your spark. The wider you gap a plug, the more spark exposure you get, slightly bigger flame front, better burn of the fuels during combustion. On a low compression cruiser setup. This would be ideal. On a racing engine I would keep the gap closer together for high RPMs and static compression resistance. Hope this helps
Thanks WT MotoBikes, your video is really informative! I'm learning how to solve this common clutch problem because i think that causes my bike not to run. My question is where can I buy the locking screw of the flower nut as a replacement since I stripped it by practicing adjusting the clutch ? About me: I am new to moped. The engine has less than 50 miles. This is my second attempt building a moped. Here are the symptoms of problem that I'm trying to solve for the last couple days: I pull in the clutch level. Pedal the bike. Let out the clutch level. But the motor won’t turn on. (The engine turn on when I let out the clutch level out the first couple days of engine break in) With the clutch level still out and no engine power, I am still able to pedal the bike. (this is odd because I wasn't able to pedal with the clutch level out) Thanks in advance for any input to get my bike running again Thanh
im not 100% sure without more information but is your engine actually turning over with resistance? or is it making a screaching noise? sometimes the clutch can back off adjustment not grab enough to engage and turn the engine over. let me know more so i can try and help.
I’m back! I’m having issues with the clutch on the second motor you built me . I adjusted it with the help of your vid, but with the clutch in gaged it won’t grab(slips) any ideas what I might check next? It started slipping after I ran it hard at the last race I went to... any help is appreciated! Thanks pal
Thank you so much for your video bro you're really are awesome I have a brand new 2nd bike motorized that I built with the Zeta motorsports grunt monster engine on a bike Berry bike.. Today was the 1st time I started it but I was having trouble getting the clutch to engage the engine then I was having trouble with the clutch handle when it was this engaged it was still kind of tough moving the bike.. Can you maybe post a video about these 21 mm PWK carbs and exactly where the hoses go I can't get my bike to stay started at idle
my guess is two things. either the pilot jet is to rich, or the carb is just to big for the engine. i usually run anyhwere from a 17-19mm carb on most of my engine setups. iv only got 1 21mm carb and its been to big for every engine but 1 and that engine was ported out way beyond most of my engines have been. try a smaller pilot jet first.
I know there's probably a video for this somewhere but it never hurts to ask any suggestions for an engine that is working perfectly fine but the clutch that came in it when it heats up will not grab any suggestions for clutch pads
so ive been trying to figure out what is going on with my bike...ive adjusted and adjusted and no change....so you pull the clutch in everything roles fine start to pedal release clutch and it just slows you down and before it stops it try to turn over at the end...adjust clutch plate tighten a lil more repeat..pedal itll grab the first time.....second time it does what it did the first time just slows ya down and motor doesnt turn over? im stumped any help or advice would greatly be appreciated
I figured it wasn't anything serious, just being new. But my clu5ch spring creaks like hell, and wanted to eliminate the noise. Lol thanks rfor replying rho! You videos are great. They're informative, and not misleading. *cough cough LA hover cough*
I don't know if I can do a complete walkthrough lol, also for the part at the end you can have worn clutch arm or bucking bar which will prevent a full clutch disengagement as well.
you are right and i forgot to mention that but i cover it in the other video i made today. lots to go over with clutches. they are a tricky finicky little device that is honestly so simple and yet so many create their own issues with adjusting it. hopefully this video can help many.
Best vid on clutch adjustment I’ve seen
Thank you man I appreciate the comment
Simplifies a lot of questions. Thank you.
Your welcome man. I appreciate the comment
Great information. Much appreciated. There are lots of video on UA-cam that are all over the place with information. This was very helpful. Simplicity to the max. I am new to the motorized bicycle game. Much love from So-Cal.
thank you man and your welcome!
@@wtmotobikes8838 what does it mean if I put new pads in and adjusted the clutch just like that but it seems to still be slipping instead of holding tight against the pads
Stephen. Sometimes pads need broke in a little bit. Either that or your flower nut just isn’t quite tight enough.
There’s absolutely no videos on adjusting preload, you should definitely make one.
Jamie Bouchard alright. I’ll see what I can do.
Can u make a vid of the disassembly of the clutch and everything and then put it back together pls
Nice bike great video
What can you tell me about spark plug gaps for single electrode NGK B5HS plugs? More to the point, I've seen recommendations to gap from .26 to .36 " . There ought to be a way to say "OK, the motor is doing this, or that; I'm running a break in mixture or I'm running 92 octane with the engine run in and 32 to one so I should gap the plug at ----- (fill in the blank). This can't be rocket science. I'm not racing, or planning to at my age, I just want the engine to run well and last a while. Any help you could give me would be really appreciated. As you know, there ain't no manual with these whiz bangs.
Here’s a helpful hint on this subject. Sorry for a 3 year late reply lol. The closer you gap the plug, the higher the resistance to compression spark knockout you get, the higher Rpms you can achieve. That means the compression will not stomp out your spark. The wider you gap a plug, the more spark exposure you get, slightly bigger flame front, better burn of the fuels during combustion. On a low compression cruiser setup. This would be ideal. On a racing engine I would keep the gap closer together for high RPMs and static compression resistance. Hope this helps
Amazing vid bud helped out
I’m glad it helped. It took me a while to figure this all out lol
Thanks WT MotoBikes, your video is really informative! I'm learning how to solve this common clutch problem because i think that causes my bike not to run. My question is where can I buy the locking screw of the flower nut as a replacement since I stripped it by practicing adjusting the clutch ?
About me: I am new to moped. The engine has less than 50 miles. This is my second attempt building a moped.
Here are the symptoms of problem that I'm trying to solve for the last couple days:
I pull in the clutch level.
Pedal the bike.
Let out the clutch level.
But the motor won’t turn on. (The engine turn on when I let out the clutch level out the first couple days of engine break in)
With the clutch level still out and no engine power, I am still able to pedal the bike. (this is odd because I wasn't able to pedal with the clutch level out)
Thanks in advance for any input to get my bike running again
Thanh
im not 100% sure without more information but is your engine actually turning over with resistance? or is it making a screaching noise? sometimes the clutch can back off adjustment not grab enough to engage and turn the engine over. let me know more so i can try and help.
I’m back! I’m having issues with the clutch on the second motor you built me . I adjusted it with the help of your vid, but with the clutch in gaged it won’t grab(slips) any ideas what I might check next? It started slipping after I ran it hard at the last race I went to... any help is appreciated! Thanks pal
Thank you so much for your video bro you're really are awesome I have a brand new 2nd bike motorized that I built with the Zeta motorsports grunt monster engine on a bike Berry bike.. Today was the 1st time I started it but I was having trouble getting the clutch to engage the engine then I was having trouble with the clutch handle when it was this engaged it was still kind of tough moving the bike.. Can you maybe post a video about these 21 mm PWK carbs and exactly where the hoses go I can't get my bike to stay started at idle
my guess is two things. either the pilot jet is to rich, or the carb is just to big for the engine. i usually run anyhwere from a 17-19mm carb on most of my engine setups. iv only got 1 21mm carb and its been to big for every engine but 1 and that engine was ported out way beyond most of my engines have been. try a smaller pilot jet first.
Huuge help brother,, thank you!!!
Glad the video helped you man!
Great Video.
I know there's probably a video for this somewhere but it never hurts to ask any suggestions for an engine that is working perfectly fine but the clutch that came in it when it heats up will not grab any suggestions for clutch pads
so ive been trying to figure out what is going on with my bike...ive adjusted and adjusted and no change....so you pull the clutch in everything roles fine start to pedal release clutch and it just slows you down and before it stops it try to turn over at the end...adjust clutch plate tighten a lil more repeat..pedal itll grab the first time.....second time it does what it did the first time just slows ya down and motor doesnt turn over? im stumped any help or advice would greatly be appreciated
Could have dirt or grease on your pads or pads are too worn.
what causes a squeel in clutch engagement?
That happens as the clutch pads and the plate turn against each other, the friction of the two mating creates the noise. Pretty common.
I figured it wasn't anything serious, just being new. But my clu5ch spring creaks like hell, and wanted to eliminate the noise. Lol thanks rfor replying rho! You videos are great. They're informative, and not misleading. *cough cough LA hover cough*
I don't know if I can do a complete walkthrough lol, also for the part at the end you can have worn clutch arm or bucking bar which will prevent a full clutch disengagement as well.
you are right and i forgot to mention that but i cover it in the other video i made today. lots to go over with clutches. they are a tricky finicky little device that is honestly so simple and yet so many create their own issues with adjusting it. hopefully this video can help many.
my clutch works fine, but i am tempted to take it apart to see the clutch pads, so i know what they look like before they wear.