I'm glad it was helpful. I have another truck coming in for some work, including a turbo rebuild, and I plan on making a better video on it at that time. Basically, just as detailed, but quicker and less painful to watch 🤣
Dang man, most thorough turbo-rebuild video Ive seen yet. Decided to do exactly that with the kit and parts from RiffRaff. Been buying 7.3 parts from them for years, they are always super reliable parts. Got a new Garret turbine wheel prebalanced and everything, just to be safe. Not looking to drop the money on balancing the whole turbo... Thanks again for the awesome vid man! Probably wouldn't be doing this job without it 😅
Thank you. I'm glad it helped, that's why I make these videos. I've never heard of ProSource. I'll check them out. I've done business with RiffRaff for years and have never had any issues. The wheel I put in the turbo is still working great after around 50k miles (roughly).
What is your recommended procedure prep for the first restart of a new/rebuilt turbo? Do you crank the motor with the fuel pump fuse/relay disconnected to get the oil flowing, or just pre-lube it to death, and start it normally? Ty
Pre-lube it to death and start normally. On the bench, I turn the turbo where the oil inlet is pointed up, pour oil in it and spin the shaft a bunch of times, then dump it out and install. Then just fire it up like normal. At that point it's no different than starting it any other time.
It does help, but barely. I had mine wired up as one for quite a while, even went as far as wiring it up to work automatically when I press the brake pedal. I wasn't impressed by its braking abilities enough to keep it. The possibilities of oil leaks outweighed the braking benefits in my opinion. Not saying it's a bad idea, it's just my personal preference to remove it.
Hi mate this is was a best vedeo ever see 👏👏👏👌👍 that's a great explanation 👏👏 you have a new subscriber 👌👍👍 I enjoying see your vedeo and I would like to asking you if I disconnect a Westgate valve and keeping a full time opened exactly like you doing on your turbo it's interfere on electronics failures? I have a problem on my excursión 7.3 he starts good but after a cople seconds he stops and I found leaking air on turbo Westgate zone 😏🤔 looks like is stuck 🙄😕 probably that electric sensor are broken!!🤔😏 I don't know what I need to do 🤔 the failure code is: P0478!! a friend of mine said can be a camshaft sensor!! any suggestions?? he starts great but after a 5 or 6 seconds he stops 😐😒😒 I apreciate if someone can help me 👏👏👍 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 👍
Unhooking the red wastegate line like I have on mine won't interfere with any electronics, besides a possible over boost code, which can cause the PCM to reduce the amount of fuel being injected. That doesn't happen on all trucks though. Neither of my trucks (2000 and 2001 model years) cut fuel. It can cause mechanical failure of the turbo though if you are running enough fuel to push it past about 30 PSI. The problem you are describing sounds like the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) might be sticking closed. Does the truck feel like it has no power when you press the throttle but idles fine? Do you hear a loud "whooshing" noise from the exhaust when you try to drive it? The P0478 code describes abnormally high voltage to the EBPV circuit. If that is the case, I recommend just removing the whole EBPV system, which I have a video showing how to do that. It's included in my turbo removal video.
It's been performing flawlessly for around 40,000 miles (I'm guessing, I'd have to look on my maintenance form to get the exact mileage). No noticeable power increase, but it does spool up a little quicker, and I have yet to notice any surge under about any condition you can imagine. It does sound different. It does make a bit more noise than the stock wheel when under a load and boosted up, but I've yet to be annoyed, and when it's common to be towing for 11 hours a day, that says something. I have a review video on that wheel, but at this time I don't have it edited or posted. I should probably get on that... PS: thank you! I try my best to make my videos detailed and informative, but not boring.
My turbo like squeals? I guess its what it is it sounds like its rubbing on the sides sometimes underload then jsut goes away like a high pitched squeak idk im gonna requild mine and do the ebpv delete
Check out the short I just uploaded. Does it sound like that? I just had the same thing happen to me haha. Mine was the turbine wheel coming apart throwing it out of balance. A rebuild is most likely needed, and I agree with deleting the EBPV while you're in there. I've done it to both of my trucks and have no regrets.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel mine doesnt sound like that its more like a whistle but high pitched along with the normal turbo sound, iv heard some people say its normal some people say its not, idk what it is but when its making the noise i get the best power from my truck. Its weird.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel well i also have a leak with my uppipes so it like .3% better with power lmao the truck just feels mmore responcive when it makes that noise but it is prob just a boost leak thats intermittent
@@ryancollins3227 So it is possible that the noise is actually an up pipe leak as well haha. Since you should remove the turbo to replace up pipes you might as well rebuild it while you have it out, it's not that much extra work for the piece of mind. Have you checked the shaft play of your turbo? Pull the intake hose off the compressor housing and try moving the compressor wheel. You should have almost no perceptible in and out play. I think the spec is like .0035 inches of allowable in and out play (don't quote me on that number though). Side to side should have a little bit of movement, but not so much that the wheel hits the housing.
I've wondered exactly how close those 2 were, just never looked it up. I know for most practical purposes they are interchangeable, just like 3/4" and 19mm, or 13/16" and 21mm. It's definitely irritating how when you buy a socket set they skip certain ones. I hate 12 point and avoid them if at all possible unless it's a 12 point fastener.
Great video! This is the most thorough video I’ve found for the 7.3 turbo rebuild.
I'm glad it was helpful. I have another truck coming in for some work, including a turbo rebuild, and I plan on making a better video on it at that time. Basically, just as detailed, but quicker and less painful to watch 🤣
Dang man, most thorough turbo-rebuild video Ive seen yet. Decided to do exactly that with the kit and parts from RiffRaff. Been buying 7.3 parts from them for years, they are always super reliable parts. Got a new Garret turbine wheel prebalanced and everything, just to be safe. Not looking to drop the money on balancing the whole turbo...
Thanks again for the awesome vid man! Probably wouldn't be doing this job without it 😅
Great video. You explained and showed every step in the best possible way
Thank you. I've been trying to be very detailed in my videos. I'll have several more posted in the next month or so, once I get them edited.
Agreed, I think this is the best video on the matter I have seen so far! Planning to rebuild my turbo too.
Great video, very well done and very helpful, Thank you
I hoped and I prayed but I still rounded the bolts. 😎
Nice vid. Careful with Riff Raff. Better off with ProSource diesel. Very helpful video
Thank you. I'm glad it helped, that's why I make these videos. I've never heard of ProSource. I'll check them out. I've done business with RiffRaff for years and have never had any issues. The wheel I put in the turbo is still working great after around 50k miles (roughly).
What is your recommended procedure prep for the first restart of a new/rebuilt turbo? Do you crank the motor with the fuel pump fuse/relay disconnected to get the oil flowing, or just pre-lube it to death, and start it normally? Ty
Pre-lube it to death and start normally. On the bench, I turn the turbo where the oil inlet is pointed up, pour oil in it and spin the shaft a bunch of times, then dump it out and install. Then just fire it up like normal. At that point it's no different than starting it any other time.
Good vid.
Makes a dandy exhaust brake if your so inclined... EBPV that is.
It does help, but barely. I had mine wired up as one for quite a while, even went as far as wiring it up to work automatically when I press the brake pedal. I wasn't impressed by its braking abilities enough to keep it. The possibilities of oil leaks outweighed the braking benefits in my opinion. Not saying it's a bad idea, it's just my personal preference to remove it.
Hi mate this is was a best vedeo ever see 👏👏👏👌👍 that's a great explanation 👏👏 you have a new subscriber 👌👍👍 I enjoying see your vedeo and I would like to asking you if I disconnect a Westgate valve and keeping a full time opened exactly like you doing on your turbo it's interfere on electronics failures? I have a problem on my excursión 7.3 he starts good but after a cople seconds he stops and I found leaking air on turbo Westgate zone 😏🤔 looks like is stuck 🙄😕 probably that electric sensor are broken!!🤔😏 I don't know what I need to do 🤔 the failure code is: P0478!! a friend of mine said can be a camshaft sensor!! any suggestions?? he starts great but after a 5 or 6 seconds he stops 😐😒😒 I apreciate if someone can help me 👏👏👍 cheers from North of Norway 🇳🇴 👍
Unhooking the red wastegate line like I have on mine won't interfere with any electronics, besides a possible over boost code, which can cause the PCM to reduce the amount of fuel being injected. That doesn't happen on all trucks though. Neither of my trucks (2000 and 2001 model years) cut fuel. It can cause mechanical failure of the turbo though if you are running enough fuel to push it past about 30 PSI.
The problem you are describing sounds like the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) might be sticking closed. Does the truck feel like it has no power when you press the throttle but idles fine? Do you hear a loud "whooshing" noise from the exhaust when you try to drive it? The P0478 code describes abnormally high voltage to the EBPV circuit. If that is the case, I recommend just removing the whole EBPV system, which I have a video showing how to do that. It's included in my turbo removal video.
Im Surprised you didn't add more psi to your wastegate but turning the actuator.
How did the new compressor wheel perform ?
Was it even noticeable?
How was the sound difference?
PS. Excellent video
It's been performing flawlessly for around 40,000 miles (I'm guessing, I'd have to look on my maintenance form to get the exact mileage). No noticeable power increase, but it does spool up a little quicker, and I have yet to notice any surge under about any condition you can imagine.
It does sound different. It does make a bit more noise than the stock wheel when under a load and boosted up, but I've yet to be annoyed, and when it's common to be towing for 11 hours a day, that says something.
I have a review video on that wheel, but at this time I don't have it edited or posted. I should probably get on that...
PS: thank you! I try my best to make my videos detailed and informative, but not boring.
My turbo like squeals? I guess its what it is it sounds like its rubbing on the sides sometimes underload then jsut goes away like a high pitched squeak idk im gonna requild mine and do the ebpv delete
Check out the short I just uploaded. Does it sound like that? I just had the same thing happen to me haha. Mine was the turbine wheel coming apart throwing it out of balance. A rebuild is most likely needed, and I agree with deleting the EBPV while you're in there. I've done it to both of my trucks and have no regrets.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel mine doesnt sound like that its more like a whistle but high pitched along with the normal turbo sound, iv heard some people say its normal some people say its not, idk what it is but when its making the noise i get the best power from my truck. Its weird.
@@ryancollins3227 That's kinda strange. Sometimes a boost leak will cause a squeal, but that would result in a decrease in power, not an increase.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel well i also have a leak with my uppipes so it like .3% better with power lmao the truck just feels mmore responcive when it makes that noise but it is prob just a boost leak thats intermittent
@@ryancollins3227 So it is possible that the noise is actually an up pipe leak as well haha. Since you should remove the turbo to replace up pipes you might as well rebuild it while you have it out, it's not that much extra work for the piece of mind. Have you checked the shaft play of your turbo? Pull the intake hose off the compressor housing and try moving the compressor wheel. You should have almost no perceptible in and out play. I think the spec is like .0035 inches of allowable in and out play (don't quote me on that number though). Side to side should have a little bit of movement, but not so much that the wheel hits the housing.
FYI 5/16" is 7.93mm and fit on my bolts. My Craftsman set had 12 point 5/16 but not the 8mm.
I've wondered exactly how close those 2 were, just never looked it up. I know for most practical purposes they are interchangeable, just like 3/4" and 19mm, or 13/16" and 21mm.
It's definitely irritating how when you buy a socket set they skip certain ones. I hate 12 point and avoid them if at all possible unless it's a 12 point fastener.